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HONOLTTLU STAft-BnLLETIN, SATURDAY 2 OV. 2, 1012.
Local Chat: Home and Fashion Hints:
Religious and Other Activities: Things Feminine
Honolulu Femininity Interested
' in Latest Developments
Annette Rittenhouse, . writing from
Parit, under date of October 2, gos
sip of many things, especially the
pannier, find much marine nas 10 say
is of interest to Honolulu's smartly
The pannier, sometimes modified.
and partly disguised but often pro
claiming itself the real thing made
its appeiranca here about the same
time that the gay Parisians adopted
it, a fact not at all surprising when
one considers how many Honolulans
travel Abroad each year and bring
homo with them, the real Worth and
Paquln jpreaUons; and not a few ideas
to be developed here by some of the
City's Clever designer ad gown
builders. . ;
' There is so much that is Interesting
about the) -paunWr -that It is' a jwonj
' der weUtike lfi afl rent! so casually
Some n'eteald-that? the; ;bt'djrlj
. tion ot ; ifc was ; in i e, i for, ? , uj w
d r; IrJ sketched, it. And tooiErt
and American paper! Kre fuSJj W
' f crlpUons about It Wbcjd o7 rtyqfcla
"-;it last!. Would the btterjerfssmiktrfe
- approve f 4tt " rIirjiH
v All these questions were answered
V satisfactorily jn different ways every
" week.. America took up Ihe idea at
mce, and then said it wouldn't go
In Paris it fas tried; lfor severa
weeks and then failed yet all the times
! the house of Cberult kept making it,
and Mme.,Chrult kept on wearing it.
By. the time the June -weather was
; i. abroad In the land all the dressmak
' ers gave out ft one time or otherithe
: statement that tht pannier was dead,
-It was a" caprice, they said, a bid for
advertisement".' a whim 1 of an extre-i
'mely clever house, bo the pannier was
not worn' for a month or, .'.flien.
suddenly, there loomed up over the
horizen at Trouvlile and Deauville and;
? San Moriti a motley ;thrcmg',of pan
nlera. : ::-r"Xl " ;.-,- - J
They were In tllk and lerge, satin
and rattee, invesirsrcownsv -cpa,t
t; suits. and afternoon" wraps. It-fvas, not
tbe pannier f t:re- and- simple,. It did
V not stand out.Ue! baskets on mule's
. back, from .which It got.Jts name; - it
was not maae vf"stirt fabrics, rnd
if even Its tolds were flattened Hwn tp
' bala Jong lines, tut it .waa notblns
- more or lets tn&n'a pannier. We now
call it; drapery, hut the .tnalh Idea re-
' mains, and even such great designers
as Paquln, and Lady Duff-Gordon have
made gowns with an outstanding dra
: pery from 'the waist, caught In tight.
ly at- the knees byt fur or tulle or
Jeweled trimmings, v , , ,v :, "
Marie Tempest, who' Is one of the
best dressed actresses on the stage,
came out In a new play in fondon the
t other night in which she wore, two
admirable pannier gowns. There was
' no hiding the fact under the name of
' skirt drapery; there was no swathing
i or swirling of the fabric In Oriental
folds 'around the body; the silk waj
' gathered or plaited to the waist and
1 tied In at the knees. About this band
v the material stood- straight;out, ac-
centuating the -narrowness of the
"; skirt beneath.- V -'; " . .
Paquin'a Pannier Gewn. -
Vlien a' mannequin came in ' weah
. ing a pink pannier gown a ? man of
fashion who waa looking at the gowns
with his wife groke into enthusiasm
about It , that the mannequin was
swirling and : swaying before him as
. though she were posing for living pic
tures, lie said emphatically it was the
f best looking gown he had seen in
' Paris, and I have learned to listen
with respect to a man'a opinion about
a costume. He may not know the ways
and wherefores.', the cost or the ' name
on the label, but he has an amaiing
way of knowing what Is becoming to
a woman, what gown has good lines
and not false-ones.
This frock was; a rose pink taffeta.
The lower skirt was narrow and plain,
and the panniers jwere. formed by side
plaits arranged Into the belt, facing
each other In two groups, and then
norrowed into a curved hem well be
low the knees. You can easily see how
this, manipulation gave the width
between the knee and hip, and the fa
bric had body enough to keep the
plaits' from 'falling in.
The bodice' was a-casual affair of
Dink tulle aifl pink, taffeta, with float
ing sleeves that were caught about
tbe arm in much the same careless
graceful way. that Downey draped the
arms of Lady Hamilton. ine gown,
even .thought It represented a modern
fashion, had a charming Old World
air, and distinctly suited the demure--r
ness of the girl who wore it-
It would be an enchanting frock for
a debutante. The spread of the pan-
' nier is far enough down on the figure
to give grace, and It allows a long line
from shoulder to knee to be preserved
It could be repeated! in white, and
some one has imitated it after a meas
ure in plnli and blue" taffeta, but I
think it is at-its best in this rather
delicate shade of rose pink
Paquin shows other skirts, some for
walking, others for afternoon wear,
that have a drajery which has been
Instigated by the fashion for the pan-
nier. It is made up of folds of cloth
:. f'rOf f agaJhV o agaia 'on agaw
r.-.m UVM hj if mm
i nne i seems to ; dentf i that; , wrae
Cheruf t ' Introduced : Iti i ( trllb; ! j pvtttera
last; February. It iwas the ja) feme! dav
wonder. ETery one -wrcifiUllteS
passed around the figure in straight
lines or on the bias, and then looped
up into a drapery at the back that is
strongly reminiscent of the days of
the Grecian bend.
Many of the gowns have this dra
pery 'of the back, which in soft ma
terials is just a series of bunched-up
effects, and In the harsher materials
is effected by flat folds caught up one
under the other. At the opening al
Paquln's, Claire, the chief designer,
wore a gown of dark blue charmeuse
satin, 'with blue chiffon cloth over it.
Which was draped up across the fi
gure in these flat folds in front above
the knee. It shortened the skirt in the
exact center, and was not altogether
This manipulation of drapery was
tried on many gowns this autumn,
and .there will be a strong effort to
bring it into popular fashion, but any
attempt to gather or plait the front
of the skirt across the figure, instead
of up and down,, has never met with
any; genuine success,' , because It, is
thoroughly ugly and meets the fate it
as nfnnvirv. vprv weir ana e-rwi nut:
it would not be advocated as a fash
Ion for the many. The trouble is that
many gowns which : are copied by the
hundred are intended for the one, and
in that' single condition lies much of
the iugliness of .clothes, not only in
this epoch, but in all those that have
Makn'a. nlrA licht hlsmitt rtnmrh ond
form it into small, thin rounds,; lust
large enough , to ohld a heaping tea
sioonful of corn, season to taste; add
a lump of butter, and form into round
dumplings. . Steam for 'about 20 mln
r.les and serve.
BEAN ROLL. '
' Cook come lima beans until tender,
rub through a sieve .season with salt,
pepper and a tables poonful. of butter
to each pint of beans. Stir in two welk
beaten . eggs and sufaclent v bread
crumbs to make thick enough to rolL
wrap in - buttered paper until ; near
wiring. time,.-: then bake In a quick
ovea ; fot20 it!2Utr3,Kr?ryftr wUh
cream sauce' or tomato sauce. ' ? -?
STUFFED SQUASH. Cv ' f
Cut; the tem:rnd - from-" ar-tender
squash, scoop iut the centcfTTake, the
squash , pulp and ' run; It through , the
meat chopper; add one teacupfhl of
biead ' crumbs, one - ablespoonful ; of
butter, one raw egg, one teaspoonfnl
of grated onion and. a high seasdnlng
of salt and pepper."' Refill, the squash
with the mixture iand bake In a moder
ate oven until done. Serve garnished
with water cressv '
. VEGETABLE SOUP.
' After boiling a soup bone or a niece
of beef until done, add to the broth
boiling water, to make the amount of
soup wanted .and when boiling again.
add a large handful of cabbage cut
tint as for slaw, a half pint of toma
toes and three good-sized onions, cut
fine and f three Irish.,: potatoes sllved
very thin, and a half pint of corn. Let
at a. . . a m & - .
uou aooui s nan nour. . ii we soup is
?. ! e b.eal pnf ewU5' that the vogue of the picturesque is
tvo tablespoonfuls of sweet milk and mc8t in evidence. Soft saUns. filmy
StnSTKrfi I p5l.'il, r,:10 laces hd transparent gauzy materials
I? .? JT?9 U nS. Th,ls maC9 are employed to fashion these lovely
It very rich. Serve with crackers. Try gowns.- "
AWSV tben- r-; I CharnMlwas. a dinner ; frock of
Also add.pepper. salt and a little but- J vieux nti Jatln In a delicate tone. The
nutj to. rrrrw 1Itm5 If fitted quite closeiy to the fig-
' T. 'i V vILJ SA.UCE- ure. Ove this was draped chiffon in
ISZi JI? c? soft, graceful lines. Two very deep
quart of tomatoes half a pint of Vlne.. lace adorn'ed the
gar, onee green or red pepper, a dasn itr rm, Kt.a
blc !?per' ow.tablespoonful of
I wJ T-i lvavZ :Z Ql rs:T' inree
whole cloves, a quarter of a teaspoon-
medium-sized onions chopped fine.
Cook over-slow fire uutil mixture is
thick, then bottle and seal. Uncle
Rcmuss Home Magazine.
ENTIRE WHEAT NUT BREAD.
Two cups Franklin Mills entire
TSilr wn'Lnff?(r)n w J
powder two tablespoonfuls of butter,
one cup of milk, one half cup walnunt
meats. Sift together the dry Ingre
dients, then add the milk slowly.
Mould Into shape. Place in a buttered
pan and bake in a moderate oven.
1 0 as
I know a man who carries round
A germ one can't evade
An epidemic, I am sure.
On those who pass or speak with him
But strange to say. his friends are
To see him come around.
His germ is not the rarest known.
Yet some folks never seem
To have Just one. while others may
With germs ail over teem.
Perhaps you find it difficult
These facts to reconcile?
The germ his cheery smile!
ARTHUR WALLACE PEACH.
Celery should be neither trimmed
nor washed, but packed, heads up. in
lone:, deen hmriR whlrh ahnnlri then
De filled with dry earth.
BANG AND PSYCHE KNOT THE LATEST COIFHIRE ARRIVALS IN THE
O Bmnr do we ronfxatnlaf
ourselves that .wjpf
Iarne1 to manipulate our
hair Into a becoming nw
coiffure than vc learn That
pome newer and wo called
arrangement demanded, by
Dame Fashion, an 1 we rm.t be?in alii
tver again in doing up what la politely
termed b the poets "woman's, crown-Inrflory.-
'It la' good, to make a try for some
thing "new occasionally, - eyen If It Is
only " a ' coiffure, but ' it Is equally fool
Ish, to "persist in arranging one's hair
Jn a ;ti w fashion simply i; because f It
' happens to be the mode. For example,
the wearlnf ' of : a -bang is: almost ua i
; versa! among Parisian women this fait
UnfortsiUy tU 1 ' fashion decld
ed!t "uhbeWnilaf to . the. French , type
'' of fAee, 'JTh heavy fringe that ccaoes
down to ; ihe - eyebrows v gives to : a
Frenthwoman't . face ,an expression
that 1s - far from attractive, ' iladame
or mademoiselle's forehead Is apt to be
har best faciei feature, and hiding it is
a, great mistake. Indeed. It requires a
particularly; pretty, youthful counte
nance or an unusually reflned one to
affect the bang successfully.
But If one insists upon being up to
the mlhute In coiffure mo!es there I a
style of -hairdresslng, wnlcb Includes
the. fringe that is rot at all bad for
some faces. For tbs coiffure the hair
it t. in thB roolm f .vn rin c
,cf the same lace. A transparent coat
't chllTon was worn over the gown and
wa- rilt t nrrvin th etrent nf nn.
ier-tunic; r This was outlined with a
narrow, bdrdcr of mink fur. A-5 largo
flowtr-ihaped rosette of browns velvet
watching1 exastly the color of the fur.
j fa stened fthls coat.
I Another;- attractive gown was of
T P"le' Papery falls over a deep
flrtl , o1a a,
which was outlined with the beas.
The bodice had chiffon draped over
the shoulders and sleeves. A rosette
of thell-pink; satin adorned the girdle.
Long enveloping cloaks, recalling
the domino, are bcin worn with
smart frocks, writes the Paris corres
pondent of the Philadelphia North
Geranium rose crepe de chine was
used for the foundation of one lovely
moael. Over this bl,ack spotted net
wa pedti A t
! New embroideries are always inter
( ef ting. At present the favored variety
is done witn Berlin wool ana produces
the crude dyes of the second empire.
Vivid violet, bright crimsons, cabbage-rose
tints and brilliant greens
ar6 darned upon canvas to mane
bands of trimming, lapels and cuffs
foi some of the smartest tailored suits
and gowns. Semi-conventional or
flower and goliage designs are used.
A dark blue velvet dress suitable for
afternoon wear had re vers on the
bodice embroidered with bright blue
and crimson wool. The girdle, with
leng sash ends, was embroidered to
Manv of the smart hlniiRPs nrnduce
a vest effect when the coat is open. An,
n 1ffiis;t i'VrplS-. V: S,Vv'. ; rMv i f; .
-,r ;;, "
SEPARATING THE KAIri
is parted across the center of the head.
The front division pf presses ia then
parted In the 'm!ddand-roi1ea D itcn
fashion at the ttes. tje end being
wound neatly about ibe; half high. Unvt
which Is formed ih; ti bcU?:ljar.
A fluffy -faint, fringe; across . tb fore
head soften, the seVfflty ot the! Ma
donna parting. Tfce.bac. l)alr; rust .b?
combed . np ghf; toithefeead ; to pre
serve, the clear' wt.;utliueJbrhe-nc'k:
Y If tbe hea ! fa ? ofhe'i ctas,le bipe
no ; more beronilng ; j4?rure' jpaaA.-be
adepted, than;"fheflleritiiW.tt:-' Hiv'i
Ing first brushed tbe i bafh; itjonouny.
separate : the ' locks' (ni& three . Wven
Strands, making? a centirar parting,
crossing from left to Tight. " Next. ia
portion , of the, front atramla having
been" loosely .waved where nature - has
not been, kind enough to attend to this
partlof ihe touslnesw te fdnti a pretty
softening frame for the features, draw
the forward strands over, the shoulder
and. -starting at' its extreme end.' rol
the rear strand over1 the-Angers toihe
crown . of the head and pin. at both
ends,, the puff thus formed. This
makes a foundation abr.pt which t!b
wind the front strands of hair.
attractive model of black velvet had
the front and sleeves of black satin
trimmed with narrow soutache braid.
This blouse is worn with a suit pr
Long coats of silk or wool ratine
have collars of fur and velvet. One of
brown ratine striped with white had
a broad collars of white ratine edged
with black fur.
Hats of soft beaver or felt; whicn
can be shaped any way that pleasds
the fancy, will be much worn during!
the autumn and winter. Very little
In'the form of trimming will be re
quired for these models. Three-cornered
marquise shapes are popular.
Fabric millinery is the novelty of the
moment and includes not only moire
silk and satin, but plush and velvet.
Fur is effectively combined with these
materials to fashion smart pieces of
Filet squares that are being made
so generally just now by wonien on
hotel verandas may be worked into a
handsome sideboard cover by combin
ing them with Cluney lace and inser
tion and strips of eyelet embroidery
on 'fine linen.
Make a center of plain linen. This
must be regulated by the size of the
filet squares and the size the cover is
to be finished. Outside each corner
put a filet square and put two other
squares on the length of the cover
(eight in all will be needed), spaced so
the two outer strips are slightly lon
ger than the middle one.
These connecting strips, three to
each side, and one at each end, are of
linen worked in a conventional de
sign in eyelet embroidery. They
should be as much narrower than the
squares as two widths of Cluny in
sertion, sewed to each side of the
strip. Thus if the filet squares are
fiyg inches, and the insertion an inch
wide, the strips of linen should be
three inches wide.
Around the even border thus form
ed is sewed a Cluny lace edging, put
on without fulness and mitred at the
corners. A monogram or three ini
tials in the middle of this scarf will
be handsome if embroidered in ladder
stitch or in satin stitch and seeding.
READY-' ,TO : ADJUST ' COIL 1 X rfeU ;4.'v; -.H-.'-.-
: (above,); : ? r-,., 'i --j -: &:t?v& I
: THE -FINISHED' COIFFURE.
Care., should' be1 taken nptti?; dray t
the jocks to . t.igntiy rrom tne nape- er
the neck, and elsoVtb show as little M
t , jrn cuts . in me inusiraun .snow ib
I modus opera ndf and flnlsiWo-- fetfcfof;
ini.M ciasstc type or nairurcssing,
Is very .new and not. etrerrie nouaV iO
refuse to be seen in company w(t9 k
retrousse, nose of a broad. gii(Jlatiftil
mouthr - ;. .. " ' -..;?' I
And in : connection with , halrdretsing
St .would be" well to mention the; new
theory about "washing the .'hAlr. - r.Th
time limit has" been extended ffom xhs
usual three" or four weeks to as ms'nvi V-
months, the latest idea being 'th4t toJ
much laundering tjf the lock sinurl? r
. . . . ... . .. . . .... i
lous and Creates the .MHnesa that It has,,
mays oeen iupps?a to overcome ,y
The approved method now ts to treat
' : '.
Canary color is not always a favor
ite, yet an evening dress .of brocaded
satin in1 this shade. Is lovely; It is
made on simple draped lines, and' ihe
only trimming is old gold lace,' used
effectively on the bodice. '
A wonderful Paquln model is made
of accordion-plaited bronze chiffon
over satin the same shade, drawn in
with a deep band of dull gold lace,
below which is about 18 inches of soft
black brocade. The bodice portion Is
a combination of the gold lace and
On some of the high taa boots there
is a. little half-inch strap that fastens
the top instead of the last two . but
ons. Cabbages are to be placed in barrels
with the roots uppermost.
It is said that a single polishing at
the bootblack's stand when shoes arc
new will keep them in first-class con
dition much longer than If they are
worn first and polished afterwards.
Fish can be quickly scaled if placed
first in boiling water.
"To preserve the color of green vege
tables, put them on to cook in boiling
water, into which a pinch of salt has
A little lemon juice rubbed on tar
nished faucets 1 easily and quickly
A felt hat may be cleaned by spong
ing it thoroughly with ammonia and
water. A thick cloth wrung out of
cold water should then be placed over
the hat, which should be ironed with
a moderately hot iron until dry.
TO CUBE A COLD M CUE DAY
Take Laxative Bromo Quinine
Tablets. All druggists refund
the money if it fails to cure.
E. W. Grove's signature is on
PARIS MEDICLVB CO, St. Lorn V. 9
the calt duHne the Intervals' between
wash days to an egg bath. The white
Qf ; the egg alone Is used, and It is
beaten' as stiff as possible. Then the
Among the many, delightful ' even
Ings planned and carried Lout " by
young men and women, there is noth
ing better than an old-fashioned spel
ling school' It pleases the older peo
ple because they remember the real
old time spelling schools and the
young people enjoy it as. they-enjoy
any .good time, says the Youths Com
panion. .... j ......
The fun ; of this . eniertainment, and
also much of Its charm; lies in the fact
that It can be arranged with only a
few minutes' notice Of course, if the
hall or. schoolhouse can be lighted
with j old-fashioned - lanterns and tal
low candles, and the spellers can get
old-time costumes, it is more amusr
ing; but even when everything is , ar
ranged in a few minutes, it is still
mirth-provoking and enjoyable and
Instructive as welt
On old-fashioned spelling book
must be procured, with all the hard,
long words at the back, so that when
the evening is well advanced, the one
who gives out the words can quickly
decimate the ranks. Two persons are
selected as captains, who proceed to
"choose up." Of course each captain
wants tbe best spellers on his side,
but he is in the dark unless many sim
ilar entertainments have been held.
There should be a reward for the
winner, a reward for the one who goes
down first, and a reward for the cap
tain who picks the winner. The re
ward should be simple, and of small
intrinsic value. The captain who has
the first choice begins, the spelling.
When any one on his side misses a
word, the "tapper," a person designa
ted by the captain, spells It on the
other side. If he should miss it, it goes
back to the speller next to the per
son who had to sit down, and so on.
At first only easy words should be
given, so that no one will have the
humiliation of dropping out the first
round ; but as progress is made
through the book, the ranks will grow
shorter, until the "words of six sylla
bles" are reached, and the catch word
in the last pages of the little old green
book. By that time ail but a few of
the spellers will be seated. They con
tinue the battle until but one remains.
There should be a dictionary at
hair ia Parted In Innumerable stranda
alt over the bead and thVatifSy1 beaten!
white of the egg rubbed lata theftalp
with the Anger Upi. This Is allowed
to dry Into the scalp, an. the hair la
then left unbrushed vnt$ .la sesJp la
perfectly dry. t, .;iii.:Mr
one wnr jte; the- old melhodi
nose i Take 'one otiArt of baV runi and I
an ounce ech'4f cattt oik hnd ttnere! ;
of cantharidea. Shake thla "well ' and .
apply to the scalp with the finger tips.
If the hair la very oily use half the
quantity of caator oil. v
To come back to th arrangement Of
the hair, no one la so hopelessly homely ( ;
that she cannot be Improved by proper ; '
hairdresslng. Comparatively, few peo-'
pie have hair that Is tntrinalcallyl
beautiful. lively color, fine ahade and
Charming texture, growth and outline,
are rare. The girl who can twtt her:
hair up any way and look charming la
fortunate. Most of us have to struf
' I ;' i'
, i. r
gle long and - hard to produce 'even a
mildly pleasing effect." but the game if
successful hi worth the candle V
: . CATHERINE TALBOT. :
hand to settle disputes. Some one who.
has a ; clear voice ' should be selected
to pronounce vthe words and' It- should
be agreed beforehand, that the spellers ,
and their friends will abide by the de
cision of the -person who' la appoint
ed to act as Judge. V:; -; V.
'AMERICA W03TAX : ESCHE1YS
v MIXlTAJfT METHODS.
' i Militancy has no place In the Amer-:
lean woman's campaign. If.: ever it
had, that time is long and safely past'
. Susan B. Anthony survived It -to be ,
universally honored and admired for
her unquestioned greatness; led her
army over it in the dark' without their
ever knowing it. i r V '
Militancy haa no place in the Amer-;
ican woman's campaign,; not. only be
cause it isn't needed, but because the
American woman having a keen regard ;
for how she looks in action she
knows it isn't becoming to her.
The recent campaign that won her
suffrage in California let that cat out.
of the bag; for the campaigners tact
fully provided themselves with cam- '
paign trousseaus of as much beauty
and effectiveness as If they were go
ing on honeymoonsand they ; did '
great work with them, too! -
The English women have their own
reasons for their militancy, reasons
which do not exist here; and no one
can hrlp admiring them, 'however
much one may deplore their methods,"
for their impassioned devotion to their
cause. : . "
But we needn't carry our admira
tion to the extreme of imitating them,
need we? Helen Dare in San Fran- -cisco
.S03IETUI50 FOR MOTHEBS.
This is the season of the year when
mother feel very much concerned ov
er the frequent colds contracted .by
their children, and have abundant rea
son for it, as every cold weakens the
lung3, lowers the vitality and - paves
the way for the more serious diseases
that so often follow. Chamberlain's
Cough Remedy Is famous for its cures,
and is pleasant and safe to take. For
sale by all dealers. Benson, Smith &
Co., Ltd., agents for Hawaii.