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HONOLULU BTAR-BULLETIN, SATTKDAY. JAN. 11, 101?,.
A PAGE FOR WOMEN AND THEIR INTERESTS
Local Chaj: Homk and Fashion Hints: Religious and Other Activities: Things Feminine
i a as.
iT-iaid-of the New Year to
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If Ml !i:4
if I life
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1 1 t.r
HB inaia f IJlJ 'm inrel
be curveless. 6a will not r
J eemble is outltoe air bouixlass
1 or Question mark, and she
will not appear to be walking in front
ct herself. Wnat she .will appear to
jbe is a sort of morlnr fig-are 1, with an
jobliqae line on top, the oblique line be
in due to the tilt of her hat.
This is the adrance tip from a con
vention of dressmakers held recently
to decide what will be what in fash
londom. Skirts, say these arbiters of dress,
will be straight, and to prevent acci
dent to the wearer of attenuated Jupes
there will be a slash at the bottom of
the skirt a little toward the side of the
Jackets, too, are to be straight, and
from the sartorial viewpoint there are
to be no such things as hips. Waist
coats will be much In evidence on
coats, and they will be built cf con
trasting fabrics. F6r spring the fancy
suit will be trimmed with handmade
ornaments not unlike thofe Fen on the
imported evening and afternoon dresses
now being worn.
The clever desifrr.crs have evolved a
new belt fastening for these suits. In
stead of the bare line of other years
the buck of the skirt at the water line
is to be attractively covered with hand
made ornaments. We have Wcorae ac
customed to these adornments on
coats at the high empire waist l:ne.
but they are an entirely new departure
In spring m?Vi lalt'few sprees will be
shown. Bedford cor".s and woo cor
duroys will supplant the f.ivorite ff
several seasons. TV.e siiiart serine
colors are 'o Se ;;.n, from the chami:s
to the leather nh.-idrs; n.ivy blue, of
course, and the S'lf.erl ton- of taupe.
In topm.Vi the purine f.tnry F.etns
to turn to strips and ch", k: The
leader so far is a new morie; of
SYMPHONY IN GRAY.
fashioned from' cream goods with 'a taof
stripe, ine sieeves ana couar pe
trimmed with reverse f tripes, Ths
are few plain material id ttfi Coond
the' new topcoats. o
These are the straws that point th
modish Way to women who must fre-j
pare early for the spring season, feut(
most of us have hardlx settled down to
the wearing of pur winter gowns and
are not disturbing ourselves; unduly
about what is to come.
We are, though, interested In th new
sleeve, which rumor says is to be fulLj
The fashion people have been trying
without success to push fullness lntoj
manches for a long time, but it looks;
as though their efforts were to meet
with acceptance the coming season.
One of tho gown3 in the cat Intro
duces the new sleeve, a leg o' muttony
affair, distinctly new, which gives thej
model it adorns a striking styte. The
skirt drapery, starting at the sides, is
also notable. A touch of fur at the;
throat is a characteristic French fad. '
Speaking of Paris fashions, many'
costumes turned out by one of the
most famous couturiers of the City of
Light shows a modified pannier dra-;
pery. This costume, which is i;l ustrat-;
ed. is of olive brown charmeuse with'
touches of dull cold in button motifs.
The sash and collar are of gold colored
Some of the designers, tired of but
ton trimmings, are attempting to sub
stitute for them lacings of cord on
skirts, as well as on jackets. These
larinps are not new features on house
cowns and necilsees, but they are
"pemrthinp different" appiied to skirts
and jackets. The laircs are used, as
ne may imagine, for slashings at the i
bottom of skirts and at the sides and
brks of mats.
When the cord is not desired a novel
eCoct may be introduced with heavy
M . X X'. V f
;..: s.. r-- f "
X '(J A
GOWN WITH LEG . O
a"7uch e ed raped costume.
Jilk tassels In a harmonizing shade. It Is surprising that women have not
when the suit is of a somber tone. j thought of this enlivening touch before.
However, It requires n knowing eye to
place these tassels correctly. On a suit
of brown corduroy tassels were placed
on the narrow band of skunk fur that
served as a collar. As if to accentuate
their importance as an intesrr.il part of
the costume similar tassels finished
the drapinys of th corduroy muff,
which was edged with fur.
... . M - -T
THE PANNIER MODE.
a rmart example of its effectiveness 'Is
seen in one of the costumes .pictured,
of olack crape, with both skirt and
bodice mnch bedrapd. ... Tne' telling
rrlor touch is In the deep toned strip
of Persian embroidery. vet(ed "by chif
fon, which crosses the hoj:re front 1
Oriental embroidery in dufi hades of
rose and blue is u?ed on !) gowa of'
pale gr.iy satin m combination with 1
wool goods in the same delicate shade.'
Gray chiffon forms the vest and!
Drapery will continue in vogue, and sletves. . CATHERINE TALBOT.
busy life of the rue de la Pafx. The
simplicity of my salons is more
studied than it seenis. My nowns
arec decidedly elaborate, sumptuous,
very decorative in thetnsolfes.
The present styles .ire lnsins a lit
tle of tho extreme modernity of look
that has distiiiKuishnd them for two
years and taking on something of the
picturesQiienefes of period dresses.
j SAVORY UIKKSK RISKS
" (ir.iic I'j ( upiuls of strong cheese,
i rdd or.c leasponiiful of dry mustard,
'three tables;'oonfuls o ohve oil ani
j'wo talJf.jiooiifuls of mild vinegar. II
i I lie vincgnf is mug use only one
T fr. -.11- k 1 . l.l. . 1 . . .
i..e hii i.arK o.ich n.o,c ,r tableM.oonfuI. Season highly with
the seventeemn centurv. and many of i ... ..... .,,.,. ,,.Jr,ri
Wm. Add one ciglit Ii "! a teaspoontui
of soda and bra' all together until
crcaiMV. S;iif ail on lotmds of n;s
or p'atn biead and brown in a vcrv hot
a'P!,i: ST( 'KKKii I'fR ROA ST
MME. PAOUIN WRITES ON DRESS
them are strongly reminiscent of the
portraits of th" Flemish school at
that time. The deep pointed collars, j
the sleeves that bulge at the elbows, 1
tho broad, flat waistlines, low waist-1
coats and draped skirts are plegiar-j
isms from tho paintings of Rembrandt ;
and Frans Hals. There are other in.- J
fhiences at work as well, in thej
paniers of the Pompadour period, th" ,
.ui .,f lh.. iw.iv I -.ui.- I)nili,p7n r-', t ; . i ' ' . MHO
ti 114 iiu i v ' iinb?rnuvi. ti 1 1 ' i . i v i i it
colors j niiiniie:-; and
The lowering waistline that is n; cd
this season interests me very much,
for I have ho n using it for several
ssasons and have bee"n surprised that
the general public has not taken it up
sooner. One still sos a great deal
of tiie raisd and een the hi'i waist
line h'To in Paris, but I have favored
the normal lino for some time past.
I either put my waistline rich' to the
normal position or else drop it :: the
hips. I use the eiy long waistliii''
;if. o;i'- t caspoonf n of
half a teaspoopf i;l i f
i I I ( r VI I'P.O pepjH-'f to 2 -J
) a re an.; ci if
center of the apples with the chestnut.;
mixture and serve with roast pork.
This; recipe will servo a dozen person.3.
(JKiiM AN FRFiT SNAP;-?
Cream one cupful of butler and add
fvo eupfuls of sugar gradually; stir
into this mixture, wiilioiif separating,
three eggs, one teaspoonful of fioda
dissolved in half a cupful of warm
water, one pound of hopped needed
raisins ami oue cupful of chopped Kni?
lish walnuts. Add sufficient flour to
make a soft dough, roll out, cut in
round and bake ai once.
LKMON IMF. WITHOt T PASTRY.
Putter a pie jila'e generously and
'over with a three-i ighths of an inch
iief.. tavrr of mibd and siiic.i umweei
d cracker ot -it in '-. natinig
.)'.v n to form a smooth javer adhering
to the ola'e. F'll will- lb" following
'mixture and bake m a moderate oven
f 1 1 1 1 1 -md :!(' ateiy brov.n. H'ill
lor motor coats, the thickset o!
ratine and camel's hair cloths are th
newest materials' us'ed
in designs carried out in oriental col
ors, with the inevitable touch of block.
--."ran Diego I'nion.
Whole dresses are made of broad
tan. so line and lustrous that it looK.
almost like watered velvet.
H till'' ap'de.-
i; ii ica'i pan ; po ir ' In
f'Vcr tle:n Hlul SiniH.el
)o I lie i ( . U Willi c". I
move tiietn from m
sioi k ; simmer for 2" ! utit il
I . ... r .1 - - 1 .
I rum I. lie ;m. fore i n I f;i' nni- H'lll ' 01 a c.lln'll oi
I'iiiie jn tiiehot'otn of i lemon jui'', add i!m- ;-ia'ed rind ofi
t a ined .--t h k
until t'ney can
k ; (arel iill.v re
s'lick :;nd .- :
initio to cool I i a i " 1 1 " '' o cm
c Ju s: ti'o u . . 'i '. cover - it ti t p.
t tocV, add lour icji -;.Miif:l. of u: rav
j i -i i ;,-id M'ttm- r il tf iwje: . j f t i,.
ii-. .- s h' i i -o i ; : : . drain. Fi'i t If
one ii'lI'Mi. and one 1 1 ;i ; . f if ul of I
i ofif'.t at i Ii n i i " J n on" cuplul o.
s.itar. Foil one m.' m--, t!,n add t he i
.veil b'-atf n ;.olk--. of three hk atui I
c.o!; in a double boibr. iik" sop ens
li i ii. ':ni il i' i bi- 1 ' b 1 oi s;n:b I v.
Oili in the s'lP'lv b'li't-M . ! il.--'. of ti e
e-u-. and i;s lor pi- or tart-. bakin?
in ,i m-id-'ra ' o n n'.'ii !'i"m 'lood
i lousf kee,in ;.
Dainty and hie walking uresses are
n::de of fine navy blue serge or of
bicwn and black stripjied tv. .cii.
tine of the most attractive new e s
iume. is ff" sapphi"e bl'ie . ivet li'in
tn d with ihirr hiila fr fox fur.
Hats made entirely of fur are "cry
mi fh in fashion. They are nif ie of
n:oes,in. ermine and earn ul. Pou;
I '.'is or marabou are used as iiinmi'
, ... these. Piitsl.urch Gazette Times.
Kvening zowi s have fpiito i i,m
pointed or s'.iar trains. V sbiced
necks, a great deal of fur 'rinnnln r,
.mi the most s'rikin.' , h: used i ;
a I I ier.t.
not ding" to the tv'.rne way of
i ng yi.ur hair reeri.tP.esa of the
os , reui'ht by ti The way
!o tool our public is to change the
coiftm-e ' meet hanci conditions.
Yi-i' Iiairdrcsser wl:r understands
lines ami jay hT to fpmTi you to be
eoipjng methiHl. The h;Pr you have
ft thrive better If von wear it
ie morning .itid rest the
one wrtv in '!
:-.:roin by at''her cfifftr brr night.
Atirar ir.i ue;.s is not the only thin?
to be consults! - tho coifIrV raust be
suPcd to your jig. A too youthful
way of veiring ti e l)air a pitiful
tiavii 'v on onti, and tntk'M one look
far fdder. ;r tha Iiav 'hinned is
b iter li gui'.fii by a looso. simple ar-
t i a i ii - a ii i of one's ov.n hsi than by
I'Vi.oig to luavily bolsf-r P. Hair
' : hat i: ,i:r' i's Ins're or crayintj in
I not ntpnr.es
. ruin th
.T'.-it dial in many of i,t new coats
t., nrKMi itiir an art.X-1 v Mir." ;ioimi!1 lit). I iook i ) in silim-i v er ;im :u somo o nr. i res-s. s.
Pafjuin. the famous Paris count uricre, j a 1 1 v in ;n t ;in-"r and I hae had a u.;e the normal waistline 1
the Delineator says: 0:ic of the levi jcry active part in treat in- and niak-J l;ir:;e and lift so t.'taT" t !v
women dressmakers of note in Paris, ,ing my own models. This in addition appear small in comparison
d::v s on t h
I "ore com pi ica ' i i
it p a i In s its i. !::
In th. ua;
p)i sent ii
u r,i f r b
ni i:. dinii
her work has been hrillianiiy succ-:-:--i'ul.
The career of a seir-made wo
man -for Mine. Paqtiin owes in - sue
cctrs to neither position nor influence
a career that means hart! v or1;.
Jocp study and great native ability,
can not fail to be stimulati-.g to
ether women, whether thev are dress
makers or not. Her business ari-v.mts
to 12.o00.000 francs a year.
Mme. Paquin writes as follow?:
My work as a dressmaker has beer.
sufficiently varied to warrant my say
to managing a hUM'vss that employ.-;
I ."no onvriers. My rue de hi Paix es
t;'.blishi'i"n! I fancy would strike you
as rather insignificant on entrance.
I have just a l;ttb box of an empire
j room on th" street floor, crowded
with liaut rie. Ileuses and accessories.
' A v ide stairs :;y lead
roi iii. i. one i r s:::r,uy :n a n
jtotie of gray thai makes a ord
igionud for the d'tsscs. Tib fitting
I rooms are al-n very unpretentious
and look out over broad window-
l a t her wide loose j s ! v
girdles that gives a wo.-mn a sfaight.
unde elopiiT ficure that is thartniii-l;
out h fill looking.
Almost all of my skirts are made
with draperies, either pan'ers. draped
tunics or spiral skirts. Little else is
1 1 1 o 1 1 e
i oil.-,' I
M afternoon u')vik
- or else mad0 wi'h I
i:p to the show-1 worn o ev here.
utra! , tailor n:ai- s.
V.iat I am tnaki,i('T at
to the collars i"c!
i s !a i 1 t iim tor t h" iivli vidu. ;
j i' y of I tf
an otien t'lro.-o and
Mediccat; ot Ma-ie S'tiar? collar
flare collar i almost always made'
of very r-autp::! !;if" and bonc-d. j
I am vt-rv e;;d of a sleeve t'p.: has,
t " i enr a
1 1 rape:
decidi .1 fn 1
back-i have a simple version of th.
- frequently just a few plans across
the front, not unlike my first shea'h
skirt of six vears ago. You can take
ing that I know the business from the' ledges banked with flowers on the
cause it ,s !s-w
picturesijiie iy s. eves are close
fitting belo'v th. elbow if they are
Ion:: and it" they are short I set them
ar th- elbow, be
.:it! becomiim and ;
it as a safe rule, though, that as the into a wide flaring tuff.
are hart to wn when one s
comp'cxiori is marred bv
pimp!'.1.-., l!a. klicails and
olotcht.-,. S'r p,:l;en your
tharrt's, by keeping your
complexion clear, with,
Sold by HUT Hut fi Wicker Dr.
druggist. Uack or bro. 50t.
Slr-e ,-f-s nade of soft Mowing p
ii I show decided hanire. The
sleeve i. poptilar, In.t it ;s tu'i' ;.
bid and not tca'dv so b,i'C"
v;:t W'asliin-tori Herald.
i t y o!
i i i ,:
! i ! e
.V d f s. wh i' '? quickly
is. iii,v and red'i' :ie quao
v lot hair one has Simplicity
:i in ti; latest xa . if wcarir.t
'. voir !or ks g''. v thick I'
i . .-ni o !.e f 'i-i ; iraBbl 'lo
1 ..... , .. "I oops,
! . !- !: : 1 ; : ': ?.trl
j Cue;;? towels, e at bl'oid I ' . I
i I' tiii-h knots fn a era? d-;
i e.l as in nature a'-f- e o h t : I
1 b e. I
St d ' h in color:, f -.
tiov. used on luii'dmon
i In- centers and dtr ,
h:.e a ileep tasse: Fins.'e o; o
The new Creek sti' h. w ha h is
a lorn: of
a.a evefi : Mir :-:ness
ii-:; a 'ronf or cMo
tti" I . mar b
.-..r f ri-le
f,.-.i.j o rar'- d n"cl .
a: oi r',i . -.; : aneb'i i
: , ., I;Cd li'JZ rQ
.. an '. ;!:" to at-
,. .j.'a -,!- wouiu i'.: loPy,
t. s.a:r will not look its
: . .ri.-iile soft, fluffy and
n.o.i h brushing. If the
tlat to be becornlng It
le Lrushed bacS over a
zigzag cross stitch, i -Jse-Jilow roll of tuile to match.