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THE PARPEN ISLAND, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 22. 1921 Lord Nortlicliffe Describes Hawaii For The Times It Is not often that we really get an opportunity to see ourselves as others see us. But If you like to know what a great Englishman, Lord Northeliffe, thinks of Hawaii and Hawaiians. read the following article that he wrote for his own newspaper, The London Times, short ly after he passed through Honolulu a few months ago: (On Board Ship in the Pacific Ocean) The Hawaiian Islands Captain Cook's Owhyhee or Sandwish Is lands, now briefly American "T. II.' (Territory of Hawaii) are so inter esting and accessible, being an ea-y 20 days from London by the All Ked route, by the fine Canadian Pa cific steamer to Quebec and railway to Vancouver, then by the efficient Union Steamship Co. of New Zeal and, that it is remarkable that the archipelago ,so much read about by most of us in childhood days is comparatively little visited. A wise and well traveled man told me, before I left New York, that in course of my long wandering over four continents, a couple of hemi spheres, and some 16 countries or states of eight nationalities I should no doubt be disappointed in one or two, perhaps more, of the worlds most celebrated places of interest and beauty. "But," he added seriously "you may leave Honolulu out of your calculations. It is impossible that you should be disappointed in Honolulu." And I most cordially a gree with him. No matter what sort of fairyland you have imagined it to be, no mat ter what colorless, anaemic pamphlets you may have read of it on the way there, its magical beauty far and far exceeds its advertised charm. Wor ry about what the Sphinx may be like, "face to face" if you like; or about the Great Wall of China; or the Irrawaddy; or even about the Taj Mahal but do not give a thought to Honolulu till it rises over the edge of the Pacific. You will know then the futility of the printed word. It Is just a scrap of Paradise dropped down by a lucky fluke Into the mid die of the Sea of Endless Summer, Do you remember Kipling's "The Old Three-Decker?'' For she s taking tired people to the Islands of the Blest." Well it was to Honolulu that the old ship with "her tall poop lan terns" and "the strain of music and dancing on her dec k,' most certainly brought her tired peo pie if you read the poem properly Or if not to Honolulu itself, it must have been one of the Hawaiian is lands. There are eight of them in all. Oahu, on which Honolulu is situ ated, with Diamond Head and Pear Harbor America's Gibralter of the Pacific is the third largest; the biggest of all, Hawaii, which gives its name to the group- beng 150 miles away to the southeast. Captain Cook's Accuracy It was at dawn (dawn turns in daylight here in a few minutes) that I walked the deck to get my first view of the islands, and I realized how accurate were the crude illus trations of Captain Cook's voyages beloved 'of my childhood. But Cook was accuaracy itself in everything that he undertook. I believe that he surveyed the coast of Newfoundlan and that his soundings still hold good. Cooled by the trade winds our voyage from Vancouver had been peaceful and delightful, its pleasarj uneventfulness varied only by the wireless messages which reached me daily from the Governor of Hawaii, from the organizers of the Pan-Pa' cific Educational conference, from the local Rotarians, from the Brit ibh Club, from the newspapers and missionaries for wireless is as free ly used in the Pacific as it is in the Mediterranean. While the island of Oahu with its Jagged volcanic mountain tops and green hillsides, is very beautiful, Ho nolulu itself, as seen from the sea, is not impressive. On landing, how ever, one finds it like no other place one has ever seen. The flowers and flowering trees, which are every where suggest a highly intensified Kiveria. The rectangular slrret plan and perfectly regulated automobile traffic are those of an American town an American town without sky scrapers. The beautifully surfaced roads are the work of Americans, who have quickly leaped Into a front place as road builders. Part Ameri- an, part European, but all with a strong suggestion of the East, It Is a baffling place. As you walk through the busy streets you think of other places: of Victoria, In British Colum bia, of Calgary, of Charleston, South Carolina, or of oneor two little towns on the French Kiveria and you think you have found a resem- ulance. Then the similarity vanishes, and once more you are looking at a place the like of which you have nev er seen. I have never been farther east than India, and had not before Been Japanese in great numbers. The lit tle ladies, In their kimonos and obis, carrying doll-like babies, shuffling along with their tiny steps were beautifully, dressed and good to look upon. The trams and motors were filled with people of all colors. 1 looked for the Hawaiians of my youthful reading the tall aquiline men of graceful carriage but I found them rarely and with some difficulty. There are still some thou sands of Hawaiians in Honolulu, but most of the blood is mixed with that of other nationalities. In the islands there are said to le some 80,000 and t'A.OOO Japanese. The population of the town of Hono lulu alone Is between 50,000 and GO, 000, of whom about 13,000 are Jap anese, 8,000 are Hawaiians, 6,000 Portuguese, 10,000 Chinese and there are a tew negroes. The American population was given to me by an official as about 12,000. The British Club has a membership of about 300. There is no room here to tell of the cane-sugar industry, which is the chief business of the islands, if tem porarily depressed, nor of the pine apple tinning, which Is immensely flourishing and a pineapple can nery Is an extraordinarily interesting place, the fruit never being touched after it enters the factory nor of the growing of coffee, and Hawaiian cof fee has a good flavor and is increas ing in popularity. After their stormy and romantic past the islands are now an organ ized and well administered colony. Their situation, with Pearl Harbor, make them of interest from the point of view of naval strategy. As a melting pot of all these diverse races they present a fascinating prob lem for speculation. As a territory of the American Union, Hawaii has a Senate and a House of Represen tatives, consisting of respectively 15 and 30 members. The Governor is appointed, for four years, by the President of the United States; and the Governor appoints various offi cials, including judges of the Su preme and Circuit courts, with the advice and consent of the Senate. Governor Farrington, with whom I discussed disarmament and the great labor shortage in Honolulu, is a good looking man of middle age, well acquainted with Hawaiian his tory. He seems to be very popular, is the owner of an important news paper, and a personal friend of Pres ident Harding. As he sat in his cool room in the former palace, with a great bowl of flaming hibiscus before him, talking of his difficulties, I could not help but think that at home we think ours are the only difficulties. I have heard of little but difficulties all the way, as I passed through Washington and Can ada; and they are here in the Pa cific. Land of Flowers, Flowers, flowers, flowers, rioting in the gardens, climbing the road side trees, filling the place with their fragrance and dazzling you with the infinite variety of their colors. I have no idea" how many different kinds of these glorious things grow in and about Honolulu, from within a few yards of the docks to the top of the road which leads to the Pali, and through the avenue of enchantment which takes you a long miles of wonderland to Wai kiki but there can scarcely be any thing beautiful that grows on earth which is not found in Honolulu, from the rose to that glory, the Ipomoea rubra coerulea. This Ipomoea, despite its hateful name, is a wonderful convolvulus (of which several species are Indigenous to the islands, including the famous sweet potato, Ipomoea batatas) which is borH into the world a glowing pink, and turns, before it dies, to a deep-sea blue. Oleanders here strug gle with the flaming hibiscus, plum bago and roses round the trunks of what I think must be the best flow ering tree in the world the Gold Mo hur. When it is in full bloom, you can scarcely bear to look at this "Gift of Paradise," completely swath ed, as it is, in heavy blossoms of the most vivid flame color which bur geon over it until not a green leaf is to be seen. You must be prepared to be dazz led at every turn in Honolulu. I went out along the road which leads to Waikiki. that perfect beach where you do surf riding on the breakers and turned aside Into the nqunrluin. never pass an aquarium or place where fishes live, but never have my bewildered eyes fallen on such things as bloom in the tanks at Waikiki. "Bloom" is the only word to use a bout creatures which make even Ho nolulu flowers pale into ordinary tones. And yet, if you have not seen them, how am I to give you an Idea of what they are like? They are like canaries and parrots and cockatoos and hoopooes and golden pheasants and peacocks, hardly one bigger than an average carp, most of the more beautiful about the size of dabs. Stevenson writes In "The Ebb Tide" of a shoal of rainbow fish darting through the lucid waters of the la goon, impressing him as with a strain of music. As there is, as most of us believe, color in music, most cer tainly there are nocturnes, madri gals, fantasies and wonderous sym phonies in the Waikiki Aquarium. Drama in the Aquarium. There is another side to the aquar ium, where there is neither music nor color the tank where the two octopus-like squids live. One is a bul ly and the other is just a sad cre ature, used to being down-trodden. JuBt when he is comfortably curled up, all his disgusting legs and arms tidily knotted together, the bully creeps out of his corner and begins to rag him. He reaches out a slimy finger about two feet long and scratches the top of the meek one's head and the latter opens an. eye full of peevish menace (he's really rather frightened, but feels that he must make some sort of bluff) and undoes one tenacle. Instantly., the bully being llge the rest of them, a coward, darts back to bis corner and turns gray; shrinks into himself and pales visibly as you watch. It cannot be wholly from fear. I believe he is practicing camouflage, after the fashion of the chameleon. They do this for hours on end, till lunch-time. The other day the meek one really became aroused, and a painful scene took place. He had just got his tenacles into a delicious hors d' oeuvre when the bully grabbed it and swallowed it. And there follow ed a deadly battle in which one side was wholly occupied In trying to recover the lost commissariat. To ward the end I am told, there ap peared to be practically one squid instead of two. But you will be glad to hear that when, they came apart the honors and the spoils lay with the meek one. He had successfully mined the bully and got the hors d' oeuvre back. Outside the aquarium, people lie about on the grass or bathe and take sunbathe on the Band, and Jap anese and Hawaiian Infants roll in ecstatic happiness round the tree trunks. I never saw anything more attractive than a party of five fat brown smiling she-babies playing touch among the oleanders and things. They ceased not to laugh and smile. And the houses and gardens along that road to Diamond head! Archi tects of garden cities, designers of ideal homes, let me beg of you to cease wasting you time at home and come with the least delay to Honolulu and find out how to make houses for people to live happily in ever after. I can give you no details beyond the fact that most of the nicest are built of wood, and that they are bungalows, and that they are principally walled and roofed with blazjng bougainvil- lea. and that they have no gates or fences to their gardens (except where the oleanders or hibiscus get the better of the situation and form an impenetrable barrier (, so that each man has not one but fifty gar dens for his happy infants to play in, and that I want one or several more than I want anything else. If, by the way, you live here and are crotchetty of temper, you put up a crazy board at the beach end of your garden with three words on it. The first is a Hawaiian word Kapu; and the other two are American Keep Out. And nobody pays any at tention at all. Wind-Devil's Home. From this flower-scented Eden I was conveyed in a large and swift ar up a long and winding moun tain road (also ablaze with a million flowering shrubs), to a Place of De vils. This place Is Nunanu Pali, and is, geographically speaking, the head of a pass. Actually it is the place whence all the tornadoes and hurri canes and typhoons in the world are exported. You climb in pitiful ignor ance to within a few yards of the summit, wrapped in sunny peace. Behind you lies the smiling and the flowery road zigzagging down to distant Honolulu. There is no sound but the merry voice of the Trades among the trees. Fifty yards further on you arrive at the edge of a terrific precipice, having apparently, a fine view of in finity. But you have no leisure in (Continued on page nine) TT PNr- m Appropriate Gifts For Everybody; iri mi irik. OUR HOLIDAY ARE NOW DISPLAY Large Madeira Tea Cut Glass TO Y S ! The Finest and Cleanest Toys shown for many years The EE assortment of Inexpensive Novelties Hand Embroidered Linen Cloths Runners - Doilies Handkerchiefs - Etc. Fancy Painted Baskets Silverware Electrical Appliances Makaweli GOODS ON 8 ft ft m m ft Store