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THE,, EVENING BULLETIN: HONOLULU, H. 1., SEPTEMBER 30, 1890. ' - - 'ffl&L$Ji
DRESS AND FASHION.
Fashion seems to bo amusing horsolf
with picking from niiy period whatovor
lensea her fancy, identifying hersolf
Witu ilCSO. yet delighted with nil. Sho
Btill coqnots dnlntily with tho princess
gown. That gown plain nnd simplo sho
finds tbnt hcrEUbjcct,?l spoilod by tho
roadlness nnd amiability of tho blouso,
will shirk. They acknowledge itsgrnco,
' but they do not wonr it. Thorcforo fash
Ion hns condescended to n compromiso,
tho "princoss effect" that is, nu obvl-
A FETK OOWN.
ens oontinnity between tho decoration
of tho bodico nnd skirt. Only tho littlo
wisp of a waittbaud conceals tho point
of juueturo between thorn. Tho polo
li a i an is another mutter on which lash
ion has had to compromim Intead of
burdening ns with tho doublo el.irt tho
ays, liko the littlo ouos iu tho uuraeir,
"Let's piotoud." So tho various deco
rations of tho day disposo thuiusehes on
our skirts in tho form nnd semblance of
tho polonuiso and sweep down to a
point iu front nnd o or tho luck. Some
times it is only tho front apron, soiun
timos it is only the hack, sometimes
both, that tiro simulated. Tho notion is
graceful, and littlo frills, lines of braid
or ribbon velvet, n pattern in passemen
teries, nil will rervo to this end.
Ouo of tho prettiest and most becom
ing of garden party or foto gowns,
shown iu tho cut, is a confection of
roso pink bilk checked with lino whlto
lines. From tho kuco flounces of lino
whlto chiffon descend in rippling con
fusion to tho feet, each ono hemmed
with narrow black ribbon velvet. And
thoso tiro repeated ubout tho shoulders
of tho odgo of tho round deoollctago,
which is met by a chemisette of trans
parency gathorcd into tiny boulllouues
nt wide intervals. A narrow belt of
white leather encircle) tho waist, nnd
tho costume is effectively oomploted by
whlto shoce, a very smart whito straw
hat, its brim tumid up and decorated
with largo black and whito wings, and
n whito billowy p irasol.
Most perfect nmong nautical gowns
stands forth tho model of tho second
cut. This gown is built of indigo horgo
of ndmirablo M-a lebUtlug dye, tho col
lar, yoko nnd cuffs of fluo whito cloth,
on which nro Etitchod bandy of yellow
glaco silk, each pointed cud whereof is
finished by n small pearl button. An
exceptionally olegaut aud qnito original
effect is afforded by tho largo tailor col
lar of whito oloth, this turning out
from tho shoulders, aud tho ends sim
ply tied with n small ribbon bow, a
sailor knot of yellow hill: fastening tho
blouto at tho waist. Tho tailor lint is
fashioned of green rush straw, tho
crown trebly ciiciickd by narrow bands
of tho yellow silk, whilo tho stiff nar
row loops nt tho loft sldo offer actual
resistance to tho wind. Tho caro w(th
which ecry detail of this costume is
worked out t-tnmps It with unmistaka
ble stylo nnd beauty.
It has certainly become n second rate
fashion for tho skirts to cling too close-
'ly to the figuro, without an? viulblo or
tangiblo means of making thorn stand
out. Thoy uro visibly distended nt tho
bottom. Ab yet, however, nlthongh
crinolluo thi catena us, this distension
,js duo generally to tho fact that tho silk
petticoats beneath are out exactly the
Same shape m tho skirt and havo mul
titudinous financings and frillings of
tub qn.il laco combined.
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8TORY OF A PLUNGER. SORBETS AND ICES. "
1 ' ..it',' -
How John CadnliT, the Tils racker, Paid
Up an Indebtedness of S2,O00,O0O.
This ia tho insido story of tho fail
jtnd rlso inn financial way of tho credit
of John Oudahy, who fivo years ago
owed (8,000,000 ns tho result of the
fnlluro of a big lard speculation in
whioh ho and N. K. Fnlrbnnk woro in
terested, and whp hns recently cleared
up tho iudobtcdness by paying over
HOO, 000 to Chnrlcs S. Hutchinson, tho
trustee of tho olaims. It is told by tho
big packer himsolf :
"Uow did I do it? Simply by attend
ing strictly to business aud having n lot
of good friends in tho trndc. There is
nothing liko hnving friends who will
stand by yon." So said Mr. Ondnhy.
"The wny of it wns this," ho wont on.
"In 1803 tho long sldo of tho lard
market looked inviting, nnd Fairbank
and I went into a deal. Ono day when
wo wero carrying a big load tho prlco
was $0.00 a tierco, and that was nono
too high. Wo had sold frooly for ship
ment nnd had thousnnds of tierces on
cars ready to go out. When, howovor,
wo camo to uegotiato our oxchnngo,
thero wns trouble It was tho panic
yenr, and Chicago bankers wcro afraid
to handle our drafts. Wo could get only
$20,000, n more bagatollo, on our Now
Vprk exchange, nnd wo had to suspend
rliipmeuts. Wo ran short of funds to
carry out our contracts on tho hoard
nnd had to givo it up nnd closo out nil
"On tho day of tho suspension my
indebtedness was $1,050,000. To offset
this I had iu packing interests nnd real
cstnto $!!, 800,000 worth of property
earning money. Nono of my assets,
however, could bo turned into cash
quickly. I called my creditors together
and asked for timo. Thoy wcro good
follows and agreed. Mr. Hutchinson
was mado trustee I wns nblo to pay 20
per cent almost nt tho stnrt. I kept
plugging away, nnd a fow dnys ngo
found that thero was only $400, 000 left.
So I gavo Mr. Hutchinson a certified
check for tho amount and closed up tho
affair." New York Journal.
AN AFRICAN ADVENTURE.
, Major Olhlions Will Kxploro tho Dark
Continent From lUul to Kml.
Ono of tho most fascinating under
takings of recent years is tho expedition
which Major Gibbous will mako from
end to end of Africa through tho henrt
of tho dailc continent
Major Gibbous will act under tho or
ders aud nuspices of tho Roynl Geo
graphical society and will also receive
grants from various government depart
ments. Ho will bo accompanied by a
mineralogist, an ornlthologist.a botanist
nnd probably four or fivo British nrmy
ofllcers nnd a dozen stout Zulus. Tho
idea is to go from Oapo Town to tho
Zambei and thero comploto Mnjor
Gibbons' explorations, in Parotsllaud.
By January tho party should bo ready to
lonvo tho Zambezi neighborhood for "tho
Kongo by way of tho Lualaba river and
Lako Paugwcolo to dotermino tho Kon
go's sources. Then, returning as far us
tho Kukug.i, they will travcrto to Tan
ganyika aud cross GOO miles of dct-crt
aud forest land to Victoria Nyanza,
thenco going down tho Nilo by boat.
Tho equipment of tho expedition is
rather remarkablo. It includes a stoam
launch of aluminium, which can bo
taken apart in sections of 120 pounds
each, so that each can bo slung on n
polo botween two carriers. This launch
has two tiny engines, nnd it can, if
necessary, bo divided into two smaller
lnuuchcs, each with its engine Alu
minium barges, nlso built in sections nnd
containing tho equipment, will bo
towed by tho launches. With n small,
well armed party and a splondid equip
ment Mnjor Gibbons expects to got
through Africa with no difficulty.
Now York World.
OUR EASTERN TERRITORY.
I'roftMor J. II. Steere PreillcU Trouble
In GoYernlnr tho Philippines.
Profossor J. Deal Stcero, who has
twlco boen in tho Philippine islands iu
tho interests of solenco and tho Univer
sity of Michigan, thinks nnuoxation of
tho far eastern territory would bring
cudlobs troublo to tho United States.
"I think if woannox tho islands,"
ho said, "with our form of government
nnd our institutions wo will have nu
endless nmount of difficulties. Tho In
dians themselves nro In n stato of pupil
ngo, with no oxporienco iu self govern
ment, nnd nro in uu stato to become
citizens, less so than woro tho Africans
iu tho south after tho civil war. Tho
parishes aio in possession of tho Span
ish piiosts, and if thoy aro oxpullod
thoro is nothing to take thoir placo.
Thcu thero nro 100,000 Ohimimen in
tho islands, who get tho greatest sharo
of the trade and who aro a continual
eourcoof troublo to Spain. It is claimed
thoy keop tho islands poor by taking
their money to China. Thy church aud
the different orders of monks hold im
mense portions of tho cultivated lauds
by their own Mtle Then theio aro miv
oral millions of MnhammedauB w ho oc
cupy a largo part of tho bontlmu is
lauds. Thoy aru in a continual stnto of
wnrfaro with the Christian inhabitants.
Tho islands could only be governed by
the United States as thoy would nu In
dian reservation." Ann Arbor Cor
Nut fin filoiv.
"You villagers seem to bo n rather de
liberate lot of people."
"I H'pose we be. There wuz n feller
drowned down In tho creek a spell ngo.
Hi' jelled 'Help! IIclpl' aforo he went
down the last time, nn tho editor of tho
village paper heurd him nu wont bark to
the office nu put In his pnper two 'help
uniitcd' ads nn charged 'em up to the es
tate" Olovcland Plain Dealer.
How to Prepare Tlieno Refreshing Ullhrs
Without tho Use of Liquor.
Sorbots nnd granites nro ices thnt nro
properly sorved In tho midst of tho din
ner, directly after tho roast Thoy are
an especially refreshing courso at a sum
mor dinner, and may bo mado of fruit
juices without tho addition of liquor.
Sorbets, liko punch, nro rnoroly lord,
or only partially frozen. Thoy should
bo of n smooth, even, crcamllko consist
nicy. Granites, on tho othor hand, aro
frozen as firm ns nu ico cream, but nro
of a rough grained consistency. To ob
tain this clfect thoy are packed in ice
nnd salt from thrco to four hours and
ro stirred but littlo. Plncapplo is a re
frothing, cooling fruit and makes a de
licious granite or sorbet.
To innko a plncapplo sorbot pool and
cut up n sugar loaf pineapple in small
pieces nnd lot it stand overnight pi
for 12 hours iu a cool placo, with two
cups of sugnr ndded to it. Then strain
trnct nil tho juico possible Add to tliit
tho grntcd rind of n Valencia orange and
a pint of water. Mix tho ingredients
and let thorn boil ten minutes. Remove
tho mixturo from tho lire, add tho juice
of ouo lomon and of two Valencia or
nuges; frcozo for nbout IS minutes nnd
I If you doslro n grnnlto, set tho mix
turo nwny, packed in ice, and lot it re
mnln thero for from two to thrco bonis.,
Scrnpo tho frozen part occasionally
from tho sides of tho can and stir tho
wholo long enough to mix tho ico thor
oughly with tho mass, but not enough
to bent it to nu oeu cream. A grnuito
1b always rough. Either of these ices is
properly served iu n cup mndo of the
half skin of nn oraugo, with tho pulp
For a raspberry soibct boll together
n pint of sugar nnd a pint of wntcr for
ten minutes. Put two quarts of raspber
ries, well uiashul, iu a pan nnd pour
tho hot sirup over tltciv. Let them boil
up once, then remove lrom tho lire mid
strnln. Add tho juico of two lemons
nnd freozo for eight or ten minutes. To
mako a rnspberry granite pack and
frcezo in tho Mima way in which the
pineapple grauito was prepared. Somo
of tho wholo berries may bo stirred in
just before it Is tcrved.
Orango sorbet is particularly deli
cious. Make n tirup of three cups of
sugnr ami thrco cups of water. Adil tho
grated peel of fivo Valencia oranges aud
let it boil quickly for 15 minutes. Add
tho strained juico of n dozen Valencia
oranges and tho juico of a lemon. Froozo
immediately aud serve nt once Tho
borbct should bo n rich shade of yellow.
Uow to DInko Corn Cake.
Mix ono cupful flour with half cupful
Indian meal, tcaspoonfuls baking
powder, half teaspoonful salt, two ta
blcspuoufuls fcugur, nnd sift through a
siove Melt ono tnblcspoouful butter
(two ounces), beat ono egg In a bowl
till light, ndd ono cupful milk-, add tho
milk to the flour, mix all togothcr, ndd
last tha melted butter. Iiutter ten gem
pans and fill them thrco-qunrtcrs full
with tho mixture Bako in a inodcrnto
hot oveu till done
How to Cnro For Umbrellas.
It often happens that umbrellas get
splashed with mud spots. Urcii occa
sionally thoy fall into a puddlo and
present n forlorn appoarnuco. It 1b best
uot to touch this mud uutil it has qnito
dried, for to rub it when wet only in
sures itH permaucucy iu tho fibers of
tho fabric. Tho mud should bo allowed
to dry first with tho umbrella wide
opcu ; then tho dust should bo rubbed off
with a plcco of coarbo flannel nnd tho
spots spouged with strong blnck tea or
nmmonia nnd water. Umbrella silk
should never bo brushed whilo wot, for
it is liable to strotch out of shape
Whon on umbrella is dry, always wind
it up, for that precaution presorves the
Distinction Without Difference.
Judgo You havo sworn falsely, foi
tho chemists testify tlmt you have pour
ed water into tho milk.
Milk Peddlqr I hnvonot sworn false
ly, your honor. I didn't ponr water In
to tho milk, but mill: into tho water.'
Her Floh. .
A fntrlntlo Mistake.
Pitttor Tompkins Breddcr'n, you
will find do text dia mawuin in do first
chapter ob Philippines. Now YorL
am - ZjfH
L Art Department 4
rLllllLllIl.&'. urawn YV UI'l
Washable Embroidery, Silks, Stamped
Linens, Cushion Tops, etc.,
- " C t,
No. 10 Fort St., Up Stairs:
WITH THE CITY FURNITURE STORE.
' Oood Embalming a Specialty. A full stock
of the latest and best undertaking goods
and paraphernalia, including several Black
and White Hearses. .
Office, 534 536 Fort St., Love Building. I'
TPI PDHrsMP QAtl IMirtfIT RPI I nM nflMD H
Residence 777 Fort St.,
Tlie OM Bell at flamaye, Xadron.
Islnnds. Cast In i63o.
KcptoJueed iron u lllustratlaa ta
i 4ww .! i i r i
E. W. JORDAN'S
Is Replete with Latest Designs in
ALWAYS IN STOCK.
TELEPHONE 846. NIGHT BELL
near Vineyard St. Telephone and Night Call, 849
K Ifatlv. Hon.. In tlit tndrone Inlands.
, Srawa fj.iu an UlutttatUa U "Ou t. aUaUa."
'V;. r . :,f0 !
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