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title: 'Evening bulletin. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii) 1895-1912, November 22, 1902, Page 12, Image 12',
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EVENINO BULLETIN. HONOM.XU, SATURDAY, NOV..lfl0ft-
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.' s A TKOU55KAU ?
The Amcrlcnn girl Is certainly
.breaking all records for the amount
1of 'money spent upon her wardrobe.
rvOne heiress has ordered as cart of
Pif'?, her 'trousseau a set of underwear of
v seven .pieces, the cost of which Is $2,-
l.St,rR(in. ' Arnlher pt of Blx IlleCCS Is to
Tho seven-piece set. Including night
,'A robe, flounced skirt, drawers, even
stockings, and especially manufactur
ed corsets, Is In the fuchsia pattern
The lace, which Is woven In a' single!
piece for each garment so that the de
sign may not be cut or distorted, Is
encrusted on the fabric proper, which
Is a sheer hand woven linen. There
are no plainly sewed seams, the va
rious parts of all the garments are
hemstitched together, and the lace Is
partly embroidered and partly hem
stitched to the linen.
The lace for tho skirt flounce Is
slashed up Into the linen In varying
depths of from six to eighteen Inches,
and these triangular slashed pieces are
woven with the three or four Inch
flounce of lace at the bottom, so that
a continuous . pattern of fuchsias Is
carried through them all. The linen
Is lavishly embroidered In the fuchsia
design above and about the lace, and
tho same Idea Is carried out In every
piece, corset and hose Included. The
body of tho hose, of course, Is of silk,
but even this was especially woven for
In the six-piece set, a morning glory
design Is used, both In lace and em
broidery. While the ornamentation In
this Is not so lalsh, the exquisite dell
cacy and grace of workmanship render
It In 'a way even more charming. Th
lace used on the seven-piece set Is the
Valenciennes, and there Is no color
whatever about any of the pieces, tho
various whites represented by the
different materials showing sufft
clently In relief. In tho trained skirt
there Is a detachable buttoned on un-
der flounce of moussellno that protects
the lace from the floor, and may bo
. easily laundered. The lace that.com
poses a largo part of the six-piece set
Is the dainty French nld il'nbcllles, and
harmonizes charmingly with the flno
lines and delicate tracing of the
NEW USES FOR RIBBON
Thirty bright yellow stamens, n
branching, aggressive pistil, and a
round place for them to grow upon
and you have the center of the latest
thing In ribbon flowers. They tried
, at first making them wholly out of
gathered ribbons, but that only pro
duced roses In bud form.
Then the ribbon flower bloomed
anew Into great, flaring, bright-eyed
beauties, that make the windows of
shops mightily attractive. Ribbons
used to be thought capable of being
worn In Just one way-as ribbons.
Now they have grown Into a doien
uses entirely distinct and apart from
First they were employed as
"couch" work on fancy things that
women made, and after a while they
even left the field of sash and tie and
became "draw strings" in the under
suits. Now, In the general outburst In the
use of ribbons, they aro no longer
knotted or bowed or wired Into loops
for hat trimmings, but are shirred over
wire loops and form .butterflies, from
which depend myrladB of tiny bows
The roses, buds, and leaves are so
cunningly devised that as they rise
from blue or pink stems they have a
quasi-natural appearance, and. often
adorn a corsage In lieu of real flowers,
Tho pink and red and yellow nnd
white "single roses" for the hair are
made In satin ribbons, and nestio back
of the ear like those In old-fashioned
miniatures, only these are fadeless.
Ruffles of ribbon are worn, and rib
bon forms Insertions in dress goods,
Is made Into stocks and used as puf
fings on the edges of various useful
articles. It is made Into garters and
Into numberless articles of fancy
work, among which are "all-piece"
sewing bags, the opera glass case, and
Ribbons have been found useful be
cause they lend themselves to so many
purposes In their natural form. They
have a finished edge when a selvage is
wanted, and they can bo twisted Into
"a bow when all other things fall. They
aro useful substitutes for aigrettes In
the coiffure, and nothing so good for
the belt has been found. They make
the daintiest of reins for a cotillon
and tho flowers Into which they aro
formed this year suggest confetti
In new dinner dresses one notices
more than ever tho tendency to make
the skirt very long. Sweeping trains
that absolutely wreck all chances at
moving about In tho drawing room
are wound around the feet of the fair
wearer, giving her the tall, statuesque
pose which Is so much admired, says
the Pittsburg Dispatch.
The twisting of the skirt about the
limbs is a fashionable fad and direc
tions for doing it are thus given by a
modiste: Walk into the drawing room
and when you havo reached your sta
tion, stand perfectly still a moment.
Then turn slowly nround and tho
skirt will twist of Its own accord. You
have now the fashionable statue poso
which commenced with Bernhardt and
has travelled Into tbo world, of fash
ion. La Montt Yes, when a boy his fa
ther told him always to keep away
from trouble, and he has followed the
advice. La Moyne What la he now?
La' Jlontt A policeman. Philadel
$4-22 for 25 cts!
or&llvcrorc. No wojthlni ticket
u4 w roil I Inatrnctlom, ttitlmonl-
aIi aod Mud FRF f u a BoiiYemr 0
lrUr PlK of lold puted Jewelry. Wrltettonce.
SemtBftdllCt Bai3BfAlhevm.H Carolina us A
The Lady at
New Vprk letter: The lady at the1
luncheon table Is tho lady with the
barometer applied to her conduct. You
can tell all the ups and downs of her
training by a stance at her: and you
ican Judge of, not only her present
frnme of mind, but of her steady de
portment by her manner.
They may say that a lady Is to the
manner born, but she must also be to
the manner bred.
It Is not enough to have had a lady
for a mother and a gentleman for' a
father, but one must hae had a lady
for a nurse, and a lady for a teacher,
and a lady for a trainer.
True etiquette changes and the Fa
ther of Ills Country ate with his knife.
Forks were two-tlned In those days
and no gentleman could have eaten
with a fork of the colonial period.
That Is why, when you meet a gen
tleman of the old school, you will be u
allocked to see him plunging a knife
Into his mouth and turning himself,
temporarily, Into a sword swallower.
They say that, If you are well train
ed, you cannot make a mistake In so
cial manners. Rut is this true? Can
not one become careless?
Is It not a fact that implements as
well as etiquette change, and that a
busy woman makes mistakes because
alio Is not "up" on the latest spoon and
not acquainted with the destiny of tho
VVatc Your Hostess.
"Watch your hostess," was the ad
monition given to a girl's social school
in New York. Tho school, which was
a thousand-dollar-a-year Institution,
had been Invited, ns to Its graduation
class, to attend a luncheon at one of
tho fashionable homes of the city.
The teacher, fearful lest one of them
should err and commit such Improprie
ty as spreading the bread with the
wrong knife, gave them this parting
advice: "Watch your hostess."
And greatly wns it appreciated.
Rrcad was served In small luncheon
rolls nnd butter wns In tiny pats. For
the touching of a speck of butter to the
diminutive roll thero was a queer lit
tlo knife which looked like a shield.
The meat knife was short but very
wide and suddenly pointed, lay with
the others. As to forks, thero were
Just six, some pronged, some bladed,
some spiked, and only one of familiar
shape. Hoping to secure variety for
young guests the hostess had mailo
the almost fatal mistake of Introduc
ing tho latest novelties In tableware.
Where such novelties are placed in
tho table Bervice the hostess should
Bhow her own good breeding at once.
Immediately the course Is served she
should pick up tho appropriate fork,
or other Implement, and proceed to eat
vlth It. This Is a cue for her guests
who are all watching her, and the din
ner goes off well.
There Is nothing more, embarrassing
than not to know what to use In eat
ing, and, when one's plate Is surround
ed with small dishes, saucers, little
plates of all sorts, and a variety of
fancy odds and ends, as Is so often tho
case at a luncheon party, then Indeed
If one in a peculiar predicament,
A guest nt a London reception de
clared that she drank two glasses oT
water while waiting for her cuo from
If etiquette has Its foundation In the
bits of politeness, and if these are
founded upon kindness of heart and
SMART TWEED SUIT
I if - "" mWL '???&&
iif '""' 'bWl." Si i
I ' ammmmmmmmmWM I
mHPW i'KKBKKKKUt'.&j Mill
This Is of heavy pepper and salt
length. The scams are Btltched, The
'coat, and the shaped strapping are stitched with white, also tho black vel
I vet collar, The foot of skirt is trimmed with eight rows of narrow black
I braid, stitched on, Horn buttons,
upon the Golden Rule, then, surely,
every hostess will remember that she Mt
should do as she wants to bo done by.
And, when she is selecting her silver-
ware for her dinners and the glass -
waro for her luncheons, and the cov-
era for her noonday breakfast, the
will recall the admonition, "bo unto
others as you would that they do unto
Do not embarrass your guest. That
Is the cardinal law of politeness; the
essence of good manners.
A Few Things to Remember.
Thero are a few of the points of etl-
quette which should never be neglect-
ed nor forgotten. The earmarks of
good manners are shown by the way
you handle your elbows at the table, '
If you stick them right out at each
Bide of you, puncturing the ribs of
I your neighbor and Jogging his elbow
Snugly fitted coat
atj critical moments, you are guilty of
noi oniy gross breach of etiquette
but of an actual unklndness as well.
Again, do not sit with your elbows
upon the table. It may be comfort
able, but it is not polite. The table Is
meant for the dishes, and not for one's
elbows nor for one's hands. Do not
lean on the table, as though it were
a couch, and do not act at the table as
though you were filled with weariness
and ennui. Try to sit erect and to
show vivacity In your attitude. People
who make the finest dinner guests are
In the habit of resting half an hour be
fore dinner. They are then In good
shape for the meal. Even If you go
to the table tired never lean upon It.
mixture, cut a comfortable walking
frpnt seam, as also all edges on tba
'Seek a comfortable position, and let
go at that.
I The handling of the knife and fork ting lay It upon the side of your own
Is an exact index of your, own person-' plate, a little toward the back,
lal training. Have you ever seen a' When cutting meat, cut one piece
pretty girl pick up her knife and fork at a time and, lift It with your fork,
and stand them upright at each side Never use the fork with the left
of her plato while she converges with hand.
you? This belligerent attitude can be Never use the knife with the left
'noticed any night in the most elegant hand.
dining hotels In town, nnd, strange to! Never, under any circumstances, use
say. It passes muster In good society, (your own fork for removing cheese
I Hut isn't it awful? Stand your fiom n plate, or for helping yourself
I knife and fork up straight on the han- to bread,, or any other article served
die ends and look at yourself In the from one general plate.
glass. See how Ihe position mars the
beauty of any girl, no matter how pret-
ty or how graceful she bel
Rules for Visiting.
Eat with your fork, and hold It In
your right hand.
Let the knife rest upon the edge of
- FITTING FUR
of broad tall; wldo sleeve, stand-up
The most casual observer abroad
this past acason on bis Bummer outing
must have noticed the many signs In
dicative of a return of the feminine
young woman. These signs are scarce
ly to be misread. The mannish girl
mannish, that Is, so far as her dress
is concerned is certainly passing. Se
vere, tailor-made costumes, entirely
unrelieved, are no longer often In evi
dence, and even the shirtwaist which
began'on very masculine lines Is now,
with Its blouse .front and Us soft rib
bon stock with turn-over hemstitch
bands, a garment of such obvious con
cessions bb to remove It far from the
male list. In addition, this has been
distinctly a furbelow .year; flounces,
frills and ribbons have decorated
gowns, and floating veils and French
heels havo added to the fashion .plate
effect of tho summer girl. I
More significant, however, than her
altered dress, which might be a caprice
of the fashions, merely Is woman's
revived Interest In her appearance
from a truly traditional feminine
utandpolnt. Sho has discovered that
going bareheaded In the tun fades her
hair and makes It brittle, and this sum-,
raer sho has worn alight flapping,
shade hat, not pretty or artistic. In
deed, but very useful. Her bare brown
arms, lean and muscular. In which .
she has delighted In recent'summers,
rolling her bodlco sleeves well up.
abovo tho elbow, that the arms could
be both displayed and Kept In proper
condition, havo suddenly become an
eesoro to her. She has kept her
sleeves snug about the wrist, and has
Btudled and practiced tho alchemy of
skin lotions with skill and effect. Her
care for her complexion, too, has re-
j turned. Ono young woman was actu!
Sally seen on a horso trotting along a
.country road in the dog days, her face
I shrouded In a green gauze veil; wttlle,
In further protection she,hc!d with her
free hand a small carriage parasol
over her fuco. It has been noticed
too, that the manner ot the summer
girl has toned somewhat In keeping
with her revived feminine fripperies
and ways, says Harper's Ratar.
All of which is to bo received with
a degreo of satisfaction. Given .a
Most people who grant a favor ex
pect two In return. ,
Envy Is the drippings from the en
gine of success.
Many a bachelor has mad.o a num
ber of women happy by not marrying
When a married man falls down
Ktalrs he Is sure fo blamo his wife lor
tho mishap, says tho. Pittsburg PreBs,
If a man loves a' girl 'more than
tongue can tell he should Show her his
Handsome Is as handsome does
nnd the handsome girl usually does as
sho pleases, '
A girl doesn't mind her rival being
exaBperatlngly clever If sho Is' also
consolingly ugly. (J
Vo,,. ,i, ,!..,... n .i, ,.i.i .,
Tour daughter b all the world to me,'
The young man said with mirth.
I see," the father quick replied:
"You only want the earth,"
the little butter plate.
If It be a steel knife for meat cut-
If In a family where bread Is cut and
passed, use your fingers.
If the bread Is cut for you and serv
ed In your napkin, break It before
If the family fold the napkins, fold
BACK ON EARTH
popular trend, we Americans may be
trusted to develop it to the last stage
of Intolerance, and It Is this rate to
ward which the summer-girl type baa
The fine, strong, healthy, out-door
young woman Is a delight to us all and
to herself. She Is sane and normal,
and has an entirely rational care for
the niceties of her appearance and
manners that is lovely and admirable
in all women. She will stay, without
GRANT'S WIDOW ILL
v XbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbHHbbbbW ''Mmmmmt'fmwl
Mrs, Julia Dent Grant, widow of e
.fined to her bed In Washington, D, C
serious. Mrs. Nellie Orant Sartorls Ij
nearly sevtnty-seven years of ago.
A SMART RIBBON BOA
A very smart, pretty boa can be
made at home by any girl with, deft
lingers, idado up In light colors, It Is
charming for evening, or In black and
white It Is suitable for the street or
an elderly person. For the woman al-
ready thinking of Christmas gifts, It
is a suggestion worth consideration,
Take No. S satin ribbon In any two
shades desired or In black and whlto.
Some of the lovely moire ribbons
would give even a handsomer effect, j Make a series of six rosettos In all,
Four bolts of each shade are required, in the same manner as described, fast
Measure off' 1 3-4 yards or one, pret- cnlng firmly In each case with spool
ernbly the darker ribbon, and tie two wire and tying to tho foundation rib
loops with one end In each extremity bon. Tie firmly In each case, When
ot this piece. Theso little loops and
enns aro.auoui one men in lengtn.'been previously tied together and nn
This forms the support or foundation
for the series of rosettes which const!-
tute tho boa. , a
Cut off seven lengths of ribbon or
each shade 30 to 42 Inches In length
and tie similar little loops and end at
t cn"S of these pieces. With spool
wlra fasten seven of these lengths to-
gother, using both shades chosen, and
fastening them together towards the
middle, but varying the lengths of the
ends. Fasten the other seven lengths
together In tho Bame way.
xne rosettes are to ue mane irom
tho bolts. It Is not necessary to cut sweet peas. And as such It Is charm
the ribbon until each rosette is finish-Jng for a young girl for evening wear.
eU luvy uru wuuu uy uieusunug uu
tho ribbon into lengths of 18 to 21
. . .... .. . ,,., wl(h
k.Vt !VW UiaiWltB "ItM
pins and tlo In each near the marking
pin two little loops. Twelve to four-
teen o'f these longths are required to
1 make ono rosette. The loops can vary
Touch the lips with tho napkin be;
fore drinking from your water glass.
Take everything that is pasted to
you, and, If you do not want It, leave
Express no opinion of the food un
less to praise It,
If In a private family It Is allowable
to compliment the hostess upon the
excellence of a dish.
Never ask for another plate of soup.
Do not take a second helping of any
course if thero are other courses to
follow, as you delay the dinner.
At ceremonious dinners place your
napkin across your lap as soon as seat'
cd and Bhow that you are ready to fie
At a fine dinner the plates are upon
the table when the guests seat them
selves, A knife and fork lie across
each plate. Remove the knife and
fork to the side of the plato, The
waiter cannot place oysters or soup
Some Plain Rules.
But, It is not so much at fine din
ners, when you are on your guard, that
mistakes are made, but In everyday af
fairs. Here the "real lady" Is shown
as elsewhere else, and here tho blood
tells, as the oldtlme folks will say
A "real lady" will ho very pretty .In
her luncheon manners. She will not
take a whole sandwich up In her hands
and bite Into It as though sho were a
drowning man clutching at a very
straight straw, or as though she had
been undergoing starvation rations up
on a desert Island, , ,
While It Is the height of politeness
to do full Justice to a meal and very
poor etiquette, to eat sparingly, at tho
same time you must not appear hum
gry. Do not act starved. Take your
sandwich and cut It up, making
mouthfuls. A whole slice of bread, a
double sandwich, a biscuit, none of
theso things are pretty, and certainly
none are comfortable, to .Bay nothing
else about them.
Corn on the cob, asparagus In the
stalk, whole, olives, full lengths of cel
ery, and a few delicacies of that kind
can be taken as they are served, bul
are the exception.
Cut your sandwich and cat It daint
ily. Keep tne tablecloth about your
plate in dellcata order. Do not lay
jour knife or fork upon the cloth; and
nlmoBt unnecessary to state do not
try to talk when eating.
rncse row simple rules, fully re
hearsed nnd digested, will Insure a
nice appearance tor any girl nt any
The Bulletin. 71 cents oer month.
doubt, nnd flourish. Wo may well
spare her unpleasant Imitation, the
girl of the tousled hair and leathery
skin, tho Btrldent voice and careless
speech, even. If. to get rid of her, we
must have another era of power puffs
and Loula Qutnze slippers.
By the light of re:ent research, too,
the dancing girl, redlvlvus, may be
glad of her excursion Into athletic
fields. Some lately, complied statistics
show that an, average dance, one of
about fourteen to sixteen waltzes, two
steps and galoiH, takes a girl over fif
teen mile!) of distance. A college
"prom," with Its forty numbers nnd
dozen extras," can easily double this
- Presldent Ulysses S, Orant, Is con-
and her condition Is said to be most
with her mother, Mrs. Orant Is
'from an Inch to an Inch and a half In
length. When a sufficient number
have'been made for one rosette cut Lie
ribbon from tho bolt and fasten Into a
rosette by means of spool wire. Tie
tho completed rosette to tho middle ot
tho foundation ribbon, tying the rib
I bon firmly so that It will not allow the
rosette to slip, la th.ls way It will not
bo necessary to use a needle and
finished, , take the longths that have
lshed with tittle bows and end at the
ends, and attach ono bunch at each
side where the rosettes end. This gives
the cascade effect of ribbon, loops,
and ends down the front
The bows, of course, should vary In
length so that the boa, when complet
cd, will not look stiff and set.
If It Is desirable to have the boa
darker, five bolts of dark and three of
light ribbon may be used.
In pink and white, with an effective
touch of green here and there, the
crrect mucn resembles a garland ot
1 In order that tbo element ot danger
.,, ,nA.j ., ,h , ,,.
! UV VWUJbl4 UL UU UtV IbllUW-
cds more exciting. It Is rumored that
the public Is to be treated this fall to
th enovel spectacle of football played
In automobiles. Judge. "
FOR THE HAIR
Perhaps the greatest novelty In the
season's ornaments for the coiffure Is
a spray of natural looking cherries.
This pretty fruit has tiad such vogue
during the past summer that It Is no
wonder It was the Inspiration of pret
ty ornaments for the colffuro. Wheth
er H Is Just appropriate or not, one
does not stop to consider, It is so pret
ty. The cherries are most natural
looking, and altogether It Is a very
gi.y and becoming trifle to tuck In the
Tiny hunches of grapes are also uti
lized for coiffure ornaments. Tho
pink; and green varieties are prefer
red, and t,hoy have a silvery frost on
them that gives alt manner of lovely
color harmonies and hues In the shad
ings. Rut, after alt, flowers seem the most
appropriate for wear In ono's tresses,
and the novelties offered this season
are lovelier than ever. The orchid la
the latest lovely offering, and the most
exqulslto of these flowers of the air
are Imitated for beauty's adorning. In
this field there is no limit to the de
signer's fancy, and so tho most beau
tiful and ethereal blossoms are shown.
A little half wreath of daintily color
ed carnations Is also among the novel
ties, anil very dainty and pretty la the
arrangement. The rose, of course. Is
still with us. Wo could not do with
out this lovely bloom. There seems
to be a tendency this season to In.
crease the size of'colffuro ornaments.
The majority of tnem are larger and
somewhat heavier In effect than In tho
, There aro also any number of pret
ty aigrette effects and spangled novel
ties. When we leave the realm of
flowers, perhaps the prettiest of all
ornaments nro the thlny little mara
bou tips. These aro as soft, downy,
and fluffy as thistledown. They come
In all desirable evening colors, and
very daintily and becomingly add a
dressy note to the coiffure.
FOR THE WEE FOLKS
Fashions for little folks follow odd
ly after those adopted by their mam
mas. One sees gowns and cloak for
small maidens, trimmed with braid
and passementerie, 'elaborate with
buttons, and made with fanciful
slcees, slashed and trimmed. Cloaks,
too, have reversible fronts to be worn
thrown open to show fancy and trim
Everything for little girls is made
excessively short and to flare at the
bottom, a fact that makes the cut of
the underclothes most Important. Lit
tle cambric petticoats havo in some
Instances rows of starched ruffles run
ning to tho waist behind and the little
pantaloons are trimmed with full, flap
lng ruffles, cut very short.
mere are some useful skirts made
of a kind of flno white rriohalr. These
keep clean longer than the whlto linen
and hold the little skirts well out.
They can be made dainty with fagot
ting and fine trimming In the way ot
rows ot baby ribbon and hand-work.
Red Is a favorite color for the school
or everyday frock, and some mulish
red rrocks are trimmed with black.
One for a girl of 9 has yoke and cuffs
and a deep border on the skirt made
of rows of black braid Joined by rows
of fagottlng. This over the red cloth
Is most effective., There Is a fitted
belt stitched with black. A red frock
for a younger child Is laid In wide box
pleats. The box pleats are tucked tu
the yoke, where the tucking flnUhes
with black silk ornaments. There Is
a low fitted belt, and below the pleats
are tucked again for a Bpace of a few
Inches and trimmed with more orna
ments. Tho sleeves aro arranged In
the same way.
, A dainty little cloak ot light cloth
Is trimmed with white silk frogs and
big white silk collar made handsome'
with. hand work. Cloaks for little
boys aro often trimmed with deep
white cloth collars.
THE BACHELOR'S CREED
Article L I believe that liberty and
the unquestioned privileges of tho
latchkey constitute the only true hap
piness. Article 2. 1 believe- that marriage is
often a failure because most men
don't understand women.
Article 3. I believe that I am the On
ly man who does thoroughly under
Artlclo 4. I believe that hatpins and
veils aro a danger and an aggravation
to man and should therefore be sup
pressed. Article 5. I believe that all mothers
Willi grown-up daughters are highly
dangerous to tho youthful bachelor,
but tho daughters themselves are pret
ty, Innocent little darlings.
Article C, I believe that -all women
aro Jealous of one another, and that
therefore ono must not praise a girl
even to her sister.
Article 7. I believe that landladies
are a much maligned race, but land
ladles' cats are the very mischief.
Artlclo 8. I believe that babies are
the most terrifying of created things
and so much 'alike, that ihelr own
mothers wouldn't Know them with
their clothes off.
Article 9, I bellevo that stolen kiss
es aro tho sweetest yet another In
ducement to remain a bachelor.
Council muffs Nonpareil.
"And what brought you to this?"
asked the good man who was passing
through the police station.
"De hurry-up wagon," replied the
tough boy behind the bars; "did yer
t'lnk 1 come In a tally-ho wit some-
body on top tootln' a horn?" Chicago
Weekly Edition of tne Bulfetin, It
ARE YOU DEAF??
Brfrr Mod of dfhea and difficult bear
injjr rn be cured by our nw iDTeottoni only
tboia bftTltig bo born (leaf are Incurabtt , NoUfi
In ilirci.airirft, ttml particular aboo.
your caw. Consultation and adTlc ft-, Kvarr
una can cur blouolf ax bl own botua at terj;
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