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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, January 05, 1902, Image 20

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MARIETTA. BY PROFESSOR FRANZ YON LENBACTT.
On exhibition at the galleries of Julius Oehme.
No. 384 Fifth-aye.
THE LONG. LOOSE COAT.
A GARMENT AS CONSPICUOUS AS EVER
IX EVENING WRAPS
OP VELVET.
Paris, December 28.
There seems no abatement in the Interest shown
In the 1005,., long coats, in spite of the fact that
the shops are full of cheap, ready made garments
of this genre. The only conspicuous example of a
close coat Is the Louis XV. and of this more later.
Everything else seems made on long, flowing lines.
A handsome evening wrap worn at the opera a
few nights ago was of 1 lack velvet, lined, presumed
ly, with white satin, although all the lining visible
consisted of finely shirred white ch'.ffcn. The
sleeves, which at the hr,«t< n; n\v.?t have measured
t?. - O feet across. wercS slashed up the outside, with
frills of white coming through the things, and
these frills, or fine pleaUnss. must have edged all
the lining of the entire garment, for they appeared
whenever the wearer moved. About the shoulders
was a large < ir.-u!.ir collar of ermine. The garment
in front reached about to the instep, and behind al
most covered the train of the skirt, which was
very long. The hack was especially pretty, hang-
Ing- In loose, natural pleats. mtng from under the
collar In pome what of an Kmpire effect, and
trimmed with long lines r >f black lace mounted
over white satin. This same trimming made a
heavy pnttTn on the corners of the garment in
front and en tho M? sleeve?.
WRAPS FOR EVENING.
A feature of the smart evening wraps seems to
be their excessive length In th« back, but trains
en all ceremonious gowns are especially lonpr this
year. Another handsome gowri worn at the opera
was an excellent example of an elaborate recep
tion gown. The material again -was black velvet,
lined -with white satin The tin was long. and
made by the loose pleats hanging from the waist,
but the fro! ■ of tlif» ?kirt seemed rather narrow
and less flaring than a hort Bklrt would be. it was
■hashed up each 4Me ps high as the knees and fans
. black ChantlUy ir-.perted. The whole skirt, and
flln fact the whole costume, was trimmed with per
fcrations showing the white satin, covered with
Mack lace sprinkled with small silver beads. There
Were large !:ice epaulets on the corsage nd some
touches of silver, ■■loth. The Fleeves of unlinc-d lace
were pleated to the elbow*, an 1 then continued In
Mg puffs to the v.-r!?t*... A simple arrangement
m;..'.. the irristband. The face was simply held by
three narrow bands of I>!.ji-:; velvet ending with
three tiny lions.'
A good moij'l of a loose coat in palest cream
cloth Is Hi:«"'l with green. The •■'!• •'. • I are big,
pleated affair.-, with one edge following the seam
of the coat to the bottom. The lining of these, a
green and silver brocade; is. of course, most con
spicuous. There :to seme large -liver buttons on
the front ■■: the coat.
A good example of the Aiglou coat is of palest
pray cloth, heavily stitched, and lined with violet
panne. About the shoulders are double circular
collars, cut sufficiently full to main the lining con
spicuous, and there are flaring turn up cuffs to
the sleeves A high, turn over choker and little,
pointed yoke i [ breitsebwans.
" In muffs a novelty is two little foxes wound to
gether and showing the two beads. There are
haaSsseaM stoles of one kind of fur lined with an
other, such as a sot of ermine lined with brelt
pchwanz. Of the. inexpensive furs In vogue miniver
is again the firs: choice. This soft gray fur looks
well made up as a Loafs XV coat, with pleated
coat pi.-..- and large round collar of gray velvet
combined with lace.
This is an odd season. People are wearing hats
of tulle v.ith long coats of fur. and velvet is used
for evening frock-, whih a town of la ■<• is "le
grand chic" for an afternoon function. The latest
example of a white lace visiting gown Is of Venice
point, with a large, shaped flounce on the skirt of
pleated mousseline de sole, bearing half a dozen
line* of sable. The corsage is trimmed with a.
deep, round collar, made In the same way, and the
large sleeve.- are. slashed over a close cuff of
pleated monssrlinr de sole trimmed with lines of
fur.
COSTUME FOR THE STREET.
A walking suit of automobile red zlbellne has the
back of the skirt arranged in six narrow box pleats
stitched down for about eight Inches. The front
of the skirt is plain, but there are shaped pieces
Inserted at the sides, and these are trimmed with
quills of rc-d velvet. The bolero shows a trim
ming of these quills on the sides, and there is a
little vest of cream panne, embroidered with black
Bilk cord and ornamented with little lines of red
velvet, held by small gold buttons. A fold of the
rtuff make.- the belt, which Is ornamented only In
the back with three little bars of velvet held with
small buttons. The sleeves, large below the elbows,
are slashed up over a close cuff matching the
vest.
Gowns Intended for walking are made on rather
close, severe lines, but there Is as well a different
kind of day time dress, as floppy as possible, and
hanging about the figure in all kinds of long, loose
lines. An example of this Is a pale, gray cloth,
trimmed With motifs of gray passementerie em
broidery on white net. The skirt Is cut to fall In a
lot of natural pleats, as long in front as is possi
ble, and has points of the trimming about the
bottom. The jacket suggests a blouse with pleated
«»kirts added, the skirts meeting; in front. The
Jacket has a turnover choker of chinchilla, and
closes with double jabots of the fur. with a smaller
lace jabot over this. There is a belt of gray velvet,
fastening In the back with two velvet knots, and
tabs falling down on the pleated pieces. The sleeves
grow enormous below the elbow and are finished by
a deep band of fur over full lace frills.
All the features of the I/outs XV coats are grow-
Ing In favor— very flaring, godet hip pleces.trimmed
with pocket flaps, the turnup cuffs and broad col
lars. . More of these coats will probably be seen in
the spring, and where they are made of velvet and
fur now they will be of silk and cloth then. '
As the modes stand they present a lot of contra
dictions. The tailors and couturiers are talking
again of short walking skirts, and emphasizing the
fs«-t that certain of their models show only, both as
to skirt and bodice, flat trimmings and severe lines
TAILORED SUITS REDUCED.
An attractive offering Is made of "tailored"
suits for only $40 by O. Haas Kro*.. ladles'
tailors, 34.". Fifth Aye., opposite Waldorf-As
toria. These garments will be made to order
and It is promised that they shall represent the
highest class of ladies' tailoring, and that the
V l . or « miln llr *' quality ff Roods and silk linings
•ban be ft the. best. All of the materials used
by the house, it is claimed, are imported
Bleeves on rowiis of this sort are naturally slmpio;
perhaps a slashed sleeve over a close cur" or a
slight puff feathered into a wristband for >■■ I.'irp.
sleeve would be obviously unsuitable. On the
other hand, while »n Item is being made Of these
Kowns one knows that pleated skirts abound, and
that the rno^t marked feature of the modes now is
the enormous slue that sleeves have attained.
Ar-.d that sleeves arc growlnp larger there Is little
doubt. In fact, as said before, there has never
been «o wide a dlversltj i;> the fashions displayed
as ot this moment
LIGHT COLORS WORN.
Colors all seem to run to light ton. s. When one
set* away from the fashionable bl ick and white
combinations the choice seems limited to lleht
prays and tans. There are any amount of dif
ferent shades, with a name for each. «;ri:'tr color
is the name of one popular shade.
Lovely, graceful gown= are made of panne. An
example Is a visiting costume of beurre colored
panne trlmnud with little pattes of white cloth,
the pattes fastened by tiny buttoi - of strass. The
pnttes make a trimming on the bottom of the skirt
and over the shoulders The jack. I Is closed to the
bust with inn rows of buttons, and la then cut
away in straight lines to the belt. Behind are
postilions. The blouse of whit, crtpe, embr.
with gold, is framed In little stiff ruffles of the
panne that appear at the opening in the front of
the Ja< ket. The sleeves aro puffed Into narrow
wristbands, but are (dashed «nd dosed with littla
pattes. The undersleeve matches the blouse.
BWBBT KttlAß COLLEGE.
Sweet Rriar Institute, a new college for women, to
t>e established la Amherai County, \n.. owes its
origin to Mrs. Indiana Fletcher Williams, who, at
her death, about a year nRn. left her entire estate,
valued ;:t .ibout fT.".". 11 * 1 ". to !«• i Bed for the purpose.
The college is Intended up a memorial to Mrs.
Williamss daughter, Miss Daisy Williams. It Is
to be located on the plantation which was for many
years the home of Mrs. Williams. Her daughter,
in whose memory she made the gift, was her only
child, and died at the a»?e of sixteen years. She
was 50. ..n followed by her ' ■ith.-r. Afur h-r double
bereavement Mrs. Williams lived In the old home
In a most solitary mann< r, much after the fashion
of a re'-lu:-.-.
The mansion Is a !ar«e building, containing more
than forty rooms, each stocked with okl furniture,
pictures, bric-a-brac, and a Japanese collection of
curios <.f .meat value. The house jm surrounded
by magnificent trees and has a typical garden, en
tirely run to waste, with box hedges, some of which
are nine feet high. Leaving no near relatives, Mrs.
Williams pave the entire estate Of twenty thousand
acres for the purpose of advancing the higher ed
ucation of women In the Boutn.
The management of the fund, nnd of the future
college. Is vested in a board of seven trustees, of
Which the RipM Rev. Di Alfred ftUfftll Ran lolph,
Bishop of Southern Virginia, Is president.
KOVEL USE FOR OLD MAGAZINES.
A new way of saving the special magazine ar
tlrlp.s In which she is interested lias be* n found
by a woman who considers it a waste of money
to have such periodicals bound. When the other
members of the family have finished reading the
magazine, she removes the wire or cord that holds
the leaves together and takes out the articles she
Wishes to preserve. These, ar.- then sorted Into
envelopes marked "history." "verse," "fiction,"
etc. When she has collected enough articles to
form a thousand page book on any subject she
numbers tho pages over, wrlten out an Index and
sends the books to be bound. In this way she has
collected sevral volumes on subjects of special
interest.
WFOXG ASP RWHT WAY WITH GLOVES.
"There is a wrong and a right way to put on
gloves," Bald a dealer recently. "To learn the ripht
way, watch an experienced saleswoman while she
tries a pair on a customer. Invariably she will
first Bhove the glove on the four fingers before put
ting on the thumb. She works slowly meanwhile,
and not until the glove Is fully fitted to the hand
doe* she fasten It at the wrist.
"When the glove Is removed the operation should
begin «t the wrist, nnd the glove he carefully
turned backward as far as the second joint of the
fingers. It will then com.- off easily with a slight
pull at the tips of the lingers If, however it be
pu ed from the hand by the tips of the Sneers, it
will be stretched out of shape
"One glove should never be turn..! into another,
" lh ;, mannf . r in which stockings are usually done
up. They should be laid out SS flat as possible
A long glove Ihix is the best receptacle for Kloves
layers of white tissue paper should be nla.-ed be
twern the folds of delicate gloves Person? oTfasl
Mdfoua taste arrange their gloves between sacheti
P-rf..meri with their favorite powder flacn<> t9
NKW-YORK DAILY TRIBUSHB, SUNDAY. JANUARY 5. 1902.
THE FRIENDLY VISITOR.
HUB VARIOUS MINISTRATIONS TO THE
TENEMENT BOUSE DWELLERS
on WHOM SHE CALLS.
"Th" resident of Murray Hill his no more right
to visit without Invitation the resident of Cherry
HIM than has th* 1 litter to call uninvited upon tho
former." said ;i philanthropic worker in this city
yesterday. "Want, of course, serves as an invi
tation, but the desire to Settle sociological prob
lems entitles no one to in\.!(le another's home,
however little the home may be worthy of th.
name."
It is upon this principle that most of the charita
ble societlei of the city now work. The oldtime
custom "f forcing missionary visits upon deni
zens of the tenements wiiii no more material pur
pose than the distribution of religious trots is
now a thitiß of the past, ,-md, although th*' 1 num
ber of friendly visitors is probably greater at tnis
time than ever before In the history of the city,
the over'.iurd. -n. d mother of the poverty stri'-krn
family is Interrupted In her work less often than
of old to listen to readings of the Scripture and
prayer.
Tenement house visiting is- an important feature
of nil philanthropic and many of the religious so
ctettes of the city, and the work is dons by both
pnid and volunteer workers. A difference of opin
ion, however, exists In the minds of the different or
ganisations regarding the relative value of the
paid and the unpaid visitors. While the city Mis
sion declines to s-end out any but trained workers
who nre in it- direel employ, the Charity Organiza
tion Society Issurw repeated calls for volunteer
workers, who shall .ft as friendly visitors with
out remuneration.
■■The frien lly visitor." s.-u.l one of the workers
of the latter society yesterday, "is apt t.> put more
heart and sympathy Into her work than is the
woman working for her daily bread, but no one
!:-• allowed to make visits for us until she has had
experience enough to Insun her not doing more
barm than g !. New pc iple are sent on unhnpor
tanl errands until they show that they are ready
for duties of greater consequence.
"Women who have time and leisure to give to the
work have many things to learn before they are
ready for the management of serious matt. rs. As
a rub such visitors :it Brst .ir.- unable to discrimi
nate between the :• • rles of life and the luxu
ries, and are apt to be unwise In their lodgment
of what ehould be done for a hungry family. The
pift of a dozen oranges and lemons to a destitute
family by :i kind hearted but unwise woman (a
v.i! known writer, by the way) well Illustrates
this. Then, too, an untrained worker often has
thi oldtime idea that those suffering pov
erty can be lifted from their condition by friendly
aid without ' \.-rt!o:: fr-.-ni themselves, while every
effort of modern philanthropy tends to help those
who are "down" to solve the problems of life for
thems. Ives. This. . sperlence has taught, Is the
only ti
THE I Xl'SiAi. WOMAN THE BEST.
"I- . ..,: woman who makes tv
friendly visitor i!"- woman who, « it h»r by Intul
• in domestic af
fairs, combined ■■ ted taci and a atore of
comma hen, too, the visitor must be de
pendubl . Thai Is, her people must know that
when them a promise they can depend
upon It "lied."
All organizations receive numberless applications
from students' of sociology to make visits for them
or with their visitors far the purpose of becoming
familiar with the condftiohs of the alums. These
as a r.:K> are discountenanced, although sometimes
a single person— never two is allowed to go with
the regular caller. Nothing more speedily Impairs
any effort for the uplifting of the degraded thatr
the feeling that they re beli % made the objects of
curiosity.
For one reason or another there ar> tunny tene
ment visitors In th. >-it\. Most of the social settle
ments become acquainted with the families of the
children <-f tht* various classes and members of
ti.e library; the missionary organisations of the
city call upon members of their congregations and
Sunday schools, and m;>k- visits thro th'-lr
neighborhoods for the purpose of finding fresh re
crult*. Tli>- charttahl" :<i>eletl.-s visit those wh<»
appeal to them for aid. ami keep a watchful <•:■
on regular benenciarl< s.
noth the Salvation Army .-.nil the American Vol
unteers make it a rule to visit every family wiii:
|tl j,r. SCI Ibed districts, beginning at t'le top Of
house after house and railing at every door fii
the way. The purpose of these visitor! is to Invite
the people to their meetings and to discover those
who are In actual need.
"I find more worthy crises in this way than In
any other." said Mrs. Patty Watklns Lindsay, of
the Volunteers, yesterday, who, with Mrs. Balling
ton Booth, makes many of these visit.-.
The friendly visitor Is seldom th conveyer of
charity, but it Is her aim to bo all that her title
Implies, and If need exists she reports it to her
society. If she calls when the mother is washing,
and there is a wringer, she may turn it while she
chats with her hostess. Perhopc she finds a chance
to wash the baby, nn.i the mother, all unwittingly
receives some valuable suggestions regarding the
care or her mild. After an acquaintance has been
established, a wise visitor from time to time finds
opportunity to give suggestions on housewifery
topics. A certain class of the poor are notably
wasteful, and lessons In economy are sorely need
ed. The friendly visitor often turns cooking teach
er, and gives practical demonstrations with a poor
woman's meagre utensils of how to prepare savory
and nourishing Stews or soups with little pieces of
meat.
It may be that the visitor finds the baby Rone
beyond further mirery. and then she proves her
friendliness by preparing the little form for its
last resting place, One who has done this more
than once said: "Wh«n I have seen the little bodies
covered with dirt and grime I have often wondered
that the children lived ns long as they did "
it is not always the necessaries of life for which
the poverty stricken crave. An old woman a
seamstress, from Maine, who lias lived In a mis
erable anic for years, has a passion for pets, and
the sift of a number of books on animals by a rich
man to whom her case was made known filled her
cup of joy full. In her dreary home are three cats
whom she knows as Teddle Roosevelt Dollle \i- lc )i
son and Lambie. The tricks which 'he nuts them
through would do credit to an animal trainer
The slum lassies of the Salvation Army.' the
deaconesses of the Episcopal and Methodist
churches, the teachers of the Industrial schools of
the Children's Aid Society and other kindred or
ganizations art- all familiar figures In the tene
meni districts, and bring comfort and cheer to
many a. home which, but for their timely help and
sympathy would long ago have ceased to exl"t
It is the work of many of these visitors to call
not only upon the families connected with the in
stitutions which they represent, but as occasion
requires, to do such domestic work as may be
reeded In caw of sickness. It may I*£ the floor
Is unswent the stove dirty «nd tilled VTth a "he*
and the hair of the sick mother matted and un
kempt, while the baby Is sorely neglected. It is
then that the work of the friendly visitor becomes
a practical blessing, and often before her visit i«
ended the ro^m and It? occupants have assumed
an air of comparative comfort.
GIFTS FOR HUNDREDS.
"LITTLE MOTHERS'" CHRISTMAS FESTI
VAL A GREAT SUCCESS.
Six hundred and ninety-eight "Little Mothers"
assembled In one room! That was the showing
made yesterday at the Christmas festival given
by the Little Motners' Aid Association to their
small protegees in Webster Hall. East El«*venth-st.
To nearly every child there It was Christmas
Day, to all intents. Belated though it was, how
ever, it meant to all the day of the year In which
life seemed worth living.
This particular festival exceeded all others In
the history of the association in its varied features.
Never before were there so many bags, for In
stance and there was a Little Mother to belong
to every bng, except in pome cases where the chil
dren were not .'.hie to come. The celebration was
h- Id In the lurre hull for the first time, which
accommodated several hundred more than the
lower hull. Along the side and a part of one end
tables were piled high with bags of every kind.
There Were bugs plaid, d and striped, plain and
flowered, but all bag." were satisfactorily alike as
regarded their contents. From each peeped a beau
tiful doll's hend. and lnsldo were a pair of stock-
Ings, a pair of mittens, an article of warm under
wear, a toy and a bag of candy. Could any little
M other ask for a more generous stocking? For
these bags take the place of stockings, it must be
remembered. In this festival, to the little ones who
know nothing of the Christmas stocking and Its
possible delight?.
The platform was a thing of joy to th« children,
who thou-rht it th- most beautiful platform in the
world, with Its stage setting of a drawing? rooss
whp.-< crimson p->rii- rea made n artistic back
ground for the prettily decorated trees. The trees
would have been sadly Inadequate for holding the
bags, but as decorations they gave the real yule
tide, touch.
Many of the Little Mothers had brought tivlr
tiny charges with th -m. and all sat with beaming
faces, waiting patiently for what was to come.
Meanwhile they chatted together or to any one who
encouragod th ir prattle. It seemed as If no one
with any tenderness in his heart could look at
those hundreds of children, realizing the conditions
In which they live, without longing to do some
thinp for them, cither In or out of the Aid Asso
ciation.
1 Tii.r. • arc children here many of them who do
not have food snore tiu.n two or three times a
w.ek in their hom-s." said Mrs. S. S. Packard, a
member or' the association. '"Those children nre
wonderful. They never compmto. They never
Bay th.-y are hungry or that th. Ir fathers are
drunk and beat th< BL We WOUld IM v. r know th if
sufferings If we did not look them up."
A funny lilt of conversation overheard ran thus:
'i got a doll last Christmas, and its pretty Rood
yet. I'm going to give it t-> Mary, 'cans* she'll
b d Sh. '-■ afraid to go stone."
The ••• md little mother responded: "There's a
rirl Hvea downstairs b -low us but she ain't
i little Kir!: she's a boy- and she won't fjo to bed
without her doll thai her sister got last chrlst
m.i"."
The programme of entertainment was elaborate
and afforded deep satisfaction. Mrs. Qeorge Tug
not, on.- ...f tin-ir favorites, recited some funny little
■ i- Imitating children's recitations. Mrs.
■ Bin l.ohm. Mrs. Mabel M.-Klnley Baer and
Miss Ophelia Drlesamaa sang; Mrs Knibloe
whistled; Norms Meyer played flute solos, and : i r t : »-
Cutaier danced and recited to the perfect
tion of her audience. The sewing classes
of Happy Day Home and the South Kerry Pr.i". \\
gave action songs, looking neal and hous>
In caps and aprons.
Mr llattte n.rui'- w.i«< chairman of the •
■ ' •■: ■ ■
■n i m ai l • ak- w i
%!•■■■ mi chairman of the festival
committee, fts this \.-ar w.-r.- .\
narll) liberal Many of the lar^.- con
ice re T 8. i lly and
Mi. H< i\ 81. :• I Ka\ ■ J". Mrs
> !•:. E mtributed one hundr..! dolls, and
■ nleaf, a T. B. S. member, gave
indred. The sowing circle of White Plains
Kht bans filled Mrs. .;- -g. Perkins
I . wtoi .-' iratngs bran, h of the
• inton, Mrs \\ \\. .irfr rt .ys
..■ . Mr.». Cornelius McLean were lib. r.il contrlb-
PRETTY BLOUSES FOR GENERAL WEAR.
tltors. also, and were present as helpers yesterday.
-Mrs Almi ''alder Johnson Hnd "I'ncle Harry"
Grossbeck made bri.-f speeches
— « —
COWBELL FACTOBIEB.
From The Indianapolis News.
A village blacksmith bending over his anvil, ham
mering out a cowbell every now and then to supply
the wants of his country patrons that Is the com
mon Idea of how cowbells are made. Few know
that many men are employed the year round by
large manufacturing concerns for this special In
dustry.
Indianapolis Is one of the four cities in the United
States that can boast of such a factory, and a read]
market is found fur Its daily production of ISO
dozens of bells.
It is Interesting to note how cowbells are made
Open hearth charcoal iron is used as the metal
and the shaping-, etc.. is done largely by machinery.
A sheet of iron Is placed in the chopper and cut
the required shape and sire, after which another
machine securely fastens an Inside and outside
staple to what will later become the top of the
The outside staple Is for the collar of the hell's
wearer to be slipped through while the inside
staple is to hold the clapper. From here th" un
finished piece goes to the "cupper." where i,,^
Its shape. This Is a heavy machine and the sh-foer
comes down with tremendous pressure on the met?!
The operator of this machine must n ce«, r n, hi
not only experienced, but constantly w j.- a iak •
man would lose a mlt the first day " sieepj
r/e hh t e eS. %v HThe^ r^d??or in^
hole whirii is left ror the gas to escanV ■''
Thlrty-flve or fortj of these . rut-iiiles' no . h ..
dumped Into a .-.ihot furnace and left until tn"
brass and charcoal have had time to hi " their
desired effect of braslng. Infusing carbon and nut
ting a coating or brass on the surface. The cruel
1.1. .ire then removed, the ends knocked off .mi
the tells cast Into a big tank of cold water to
cooL The furnace room is facetiously termed
'•hell on .nrth." on ai count of the awful l wit
I>urlng the extremely hot weather last surnmrr It
was next to Impossible to get men to work iU
this department. Thlrty-slx trl^d it one da? and
all threw up the sponge. * nna
When the bells are sufficiently cool they go into
| XJUJiT^ f°r all I
I VV " Ivi ~f octal Occasions
I ▼ ▼ a "-J Does away with the Necessity of Dressing the Hair. % :
We invite the attention of ladles to a. new wig. lately Introduced by u». which ewers th» aatlra heaA. £
*5 and is arranged for either high or low hair dressing. Worn over one's hair, it Is a great convenient* <•
» This «ir Is particularly desirable for all social occasions. "**• *
ELDERLY LADIES will be specially interested in our stcck of |>
GRAY HAIR. ?
It nff."«rfs a ready election of WIGS. n.\LF WIGS. WAVES SUlli HKB *• '
and BAXOa Any color of Gray Hair la readily matched. "tm» -
WIGS and TOUPEES for Gentlemen. |
HAIR tttWßk HAIR TOXICS, all otiwr TOIUBT PREPA RATIONS ?
HAift T>n*amtSQ and hanictiung pari^rs. P
L. Shaw,
34 WEST 14t1» St., next to MACY'.S, .\H\V YORK S
, r * ij/%%%
the rattler, or nimbler, and come forth highly
polish, d. after, which the clapper is paced and
they are assorted. The rlnsr of the bell Is Im
portant, the slightest -rack In the bell rendering
It unmarketable. Such bells are thrown into the
scrap pile, to await the avaricious onslaughts or
the Junkman. ■' „
Bes!dV« cow bells, hog bells and sheep bells are
made In the same manner, and. thousands of hog
: nose rings are turned out every day.
yccunsfioiNs
AN ENTERPRISING Cr.RAXSER.
! Mrs. Wide Awake lived in the country, and every
j time she drove to town she was impressed by the
I great number of ispf ii springing up on every
I side. Her housewifely heart ached to thfnk of all
the floors to be scrubbed, windows washed and
woodwork wiped before each huge building would
i be fit for occupancy. Mrs. Wide Awake was great
] ly in need of ready money. There was not a lazy
bone in her body. One day on the homeward
drive her .ye caught the name of the contractor
1 placarding the highest building. Bringing her old
! gray mare to a halt, she hailed a hod carrier, and
In a moment the contractor was at Mrs. Wide
A wake's aide.
"I was a-thinking." said the rural woman, "that
! It will take a heap of elbow grease to put this
: building in livable shape."
"You're right, it will." was th*> contractor's
cheery response.
"What will you give me if I clean that whole
pile from top to bottom and put it in apple ale
order for the tenant??"
There was no mistaking her earnestness and her
shrewd mm, The contractor IWJ in with her plan,
and Mrs. Wide Awake continues to do a thriving
: business cleaning up new buildings ready for oc
cupancy. She has a large force of scrubbers in
her employ: she Inspects every room, hallway.
window and bit of woodwork. No military Officer
has greater discipline of his troops than has Mrs.
Wide Awake of hrr scrubbing brigade. She Is pail
a certain sum for each room. She keeps track of
building permits, and the moment one Is issued
| she interviews the contractor, and generally before
j the Iron framework Is up Mrs. Wide Awake baa
j the contract for putting the building, as she ci
i presses it. "in apple pie order. ' Formerly this
j work was in the bands of th.c janitor, whose ser
j vices are generally secured before the bonding's
j completion, and it i« still to a large extent. for
Mrs. I.i- Awakes are not as plentiful as they
J ■nigh oc.
THE WOMAN JANITOR.
Some of the best kepi bus. ness buildings of Xew-
I York have a woman Janitor. Th- most success
ful is unknown save t>> her employer arid employes.
! A ring at the janitor's door or office fails to vmi
■ jure hor. She employs ht r assistants. Before the
! business world Is awake, she visits the buildings.
gives Instructions m.i inspects every nook and
cranny. She baa a way of dropping in when em
ployes least expect her, a ruse which keep* them
ever 11:1 the .pii rive. No one who encounter* her
In modish gown at theatre or blgh tea would sus
pec that she draws the salary of one of th. best
paid Janitors of this city.
LESSEE OF ANTIQUE FURNITURE.
Having succeeded as house decorator, a clever
woman la developing a novel adjunct to her busi
ness which is finding heart co-operation from
re:il estate dealers. To sell or lease a house or
apartment agents have discovered that Interior
appearance at th.- time of Inspection grently fa
cilitates the sale or least There is more money to
be made In proportion out .■: th. rental of a fur
nished house or apartment than from the unfur
nished. The standard of taste In household deconi
tlon is constantly rising. People who rt«M-k to
New-York for i Reason or two of turns* keeping
long fur rare and artistic setting, much or which.
is out of their reach save at immense expendi
ture. This decorator has accumulated a large as
sortment of Antique furniture picked up at auc
tions for a song. Her knowledge of antique* and
her familiarity with auction rooms and methods :
makes her a connoisseur. This furniture she leases
to guaranteed parties. She co-operates with a firm
ot wo ii real estate dealers. The latter for in
stance, have an apartment which rents unfur
nished, for J..0. Th. decorator RU it up with hr
auction antiques, which give a palatial touch and
th.- rent rises to $100. Fifty dollars monthly soon
pays the decorator for her outlay, and. once the
furniture is paid for. barring repairs. It may be
rented repeatedly at clear profit. Two apartments
tilted up In this manner paid for the furniture In
less than three months, while It Increased th«
business of the agents to such an extent that they
are at present unable to meet the demand for "an.
tique apartments."
CHRYSAXTII f.M/M/ I.YO DRESS.
For fancy dress hall- or parties short dre.'ses of !
floral design are the least expensive and most
Striking. The latest of these Is the chrysanthe
mum, with which the natural blooms, now plenti- '
ful, can be used. To mike one of these, a skirt
reaching half way to the ankles is made of any
desired shade in stiff muslin, covered with tartetaa '
and finished with a full iHce balayeuse. stiff lace
petticoats help in getting ■ fluffy effect. The skirt
is bordered with large chrysanthemums In t^or-.-.i
color-, and garlands of the same Mower* hang from
the waist to the hem of the skirt. Smaller siz-s :
of the Rower* should be u«»e«1 with the ->ume effect i
on the sleeveless, low necked bodice, and a bertha '
finished with blossoms will give brendtti to the '
shoulder. A few small blossoms may h« worn in '
the hair. The shoes and stockings with flora cos- j
tumes should be of green to imitate tht rulii.se I
and long pink jslovrs extending to the elbow com I
plete the floral gown. •
» -
EMPIRE STYLES IX CLOCKS.
The Empire style has been revived In many other j
directions than In dress. Watches, writing table '
utensils, plates, glass* ■ and scent bottles are \
all made In an astonishing number of forms and
materials. In providing novel shapes for time- ,
pieces and clocks the Empire i- Inexhaustible, A I
timepiece of gill bronze rests, for instance, upon i
the "laws or the outspread wings of an eagle- !
others stand between obelisks anil pillars of onyx' !
alabaster, ivory, marble or tortoisesnelL The most '
modern are those lying In satin cases surrounded '
by large strass stones The ornamentation ,>•"
watches and writing utensils, most of which are of
glided bronze. is various, the bronze helm; some
times laid amid Wedgwood plaques. Paintings on
ivory are generally framed In polished copper and
protected by convex glasses. Classical female
heads from ancient miniature portraits and na
tional female types are Inclosed by frames beauti- i
fully harmonising in color with the pictures.
BOYS' sri />)• CLUB. j
The Patrla Club Political Study Class, I boys'
club, which meets weekly at Pascal Institute,
No. 576 I.exington-ave.. was entertained on New j
Year's evening by the president's mother. Mrs. X !
Henjamin Hiinisdell. at her home. No. Ml Lexing- !
ton-aye. She was assisted by a number of young
women.
The members of this club arc boys ranging in j
age from fourteen to eighteen years In addition '
to political study, th.- club holds debates upon cur- '
rent tonics. j
Eligibility for membership requires that the an
pUcant be qualified to take active part in this work
A / e .T J5 ore b ? ys of , suon *«»'"»'•>* will be admit
ted if they otter satisfactory reference Appllc -
tlon should be made by letter addressed V.V »h\»
president. Edwin <;. Ramsdell nnar€SS * ll trt the
OCCUPATIONS IS hi; OR I EXT.
There are many optnlngs In the Orient for a vrn«- i
Ureroire woman who Is not afraid to en'er up,',',, '
untrodden paths In search of . new occupation j
in Turkey Cyprus. Syria and Crimea all sorts of
knick-knacks, such as pocket Jcnlves. aemaora I
housewives, toy., and hundreds of small household I
articles, have been introduced as th. result of Fur..
tiiiiiiim
S. KNEITEL,
LADIES' TAILOR,
I EAST GOTH ST., NEAR „TH AYE.
c'LKAru.vo orr o* orn SPECIALS^
Suits and Coats, ;»« sizes, at a re
duct ion of 5O per cent
fHIS WEEK. aßd ta Ar(ipr *
.'...„„,, : : uuw2
fSA, regular price $80.
•_ at
«5t pn)--*ibl<T !.rirf>? Mr Kn»i-M i 7 « n , at th » low
nal thu
ISssm* ™*
tK^traV-r'* h ««* the -ccs 3lty tor .
mni^fpmjo
JELLIES FOR meats.
Each year It Is becoming more of a practice to
serve an appetizing jelly of some kin-! with the roast
meat it dinner. The variety of fruits now used la
lellied form i : s greater than a few years ago and
the housekeeper can reject the jelly most popular
in her family as tli* accompaniment of a roast.
W ith renison It is nsual to serve a jelly of stronsTy
marked flavor, suoh as currant or grape. The saajj
ru!e holds re sard Ing je!ly served with duck or any
fowl of an oily kind with whtch a tart flavor Is
Ik " 1 Cranberry c.r gooseberry jellies are amon*
those sharpest in flavor, fire of the latest ways ,■>?
serving mil sauce to accompany roast lamb at
luncheon or dinner ;-• to have it in a mould of Jelly.
This is made as follow?: • *
MI XT JELL.T.
Ingrejlents: One-quarter of a package of gelatin*,
or.c pint of water. Juice of one lemon, enough sugar
to sweeten and one small after dinner enfTe* cupful
of broken mint leaves. Remove the leaves from
ihe stem, wash them and put them in the pint of
water to boll. Cook until the water tastes suffl
ciently of th" mint and ha* become a light green,
then remove from the fire and strain off the leaves.
Soak the gelatine in the water for twenty minutes,
then a Id the sugar and let the whole boil for fl»»
minutes. Remove from the fire, ami when the Jelly
h:«s partially cooled .stir in the lemon juice. Poor
the mixture in a pint mould which has bees motet
rned with Cold water to cool. It can h<? put In hl
flivi.ii! il moulds if preferred, and will harden ||
about two hour* it r-'t on ic^. In coll weruher less
«>f the gelatine, may be refjuired. as the jelly should
be jus? stiff enough to kfep the form in which It
has i*i>n m«>uiiled. Some persons plate a spray of
mint in the jelly as it is beginning to haplen. aIM
show:; thro-.:sh when the form is taken out.
OttAXGE JELL.T.
Ingredients : One box of gelatine, one pint "'.
oranse Juice, one pound of granulated sugar, thres
pints of Imt water and the Juice of one small
lemon. Soak the griarine for one hour In th«
orange and lemon Juice, then n.M the susrir and hot
water, put on the stove an.i let Ir hoi! ten minutes.
Remove from the tire. ar..l when it is nearly cool
add the lemon jnlce ar.d pour in a mould to cool.
\/:il ■>• n; r| \ |/>/ | \ WOXEX.
Christmas at Rideita H.ill. the home of the Oot«
ernor General cf Canada, was something like a
scene from me of Hans Andersen's fairy tales, the
ballroom being transformed tnro a Hater garden
for the occasion. The floor w.is strewn with frosted
wool to imitate «now. and numerous trees, set
among bowlders, glowed with lights and sparkled
with frost There was a tree for each of the chil
dren of their e\c*>l!f>nrios. except I^ady Rnby, who
Is getting t.>.> grown up for such childish pleas
ures, and also f ( .r the Other Children of the vice
regal household. The gifts were piled about fh«
foot i>f the tiers, and were distributed by Lady
Mint..
Canadian women are again busy preparing com
forts for the soldiers who are g»ingr to South
Africa. The third contingent sails on January 10.
and the Daughters of th<* Empire have already
shipped t>»> books for rse on the voyage to the
place of embarkation— Halifax. The Woman's
Christian Temperance I'nicm is mak comfort
bass, and the Ottawa branch of th* Soldiers'
Wives League fens provided a quantity of flanael
shirts The men already on the fieM were re
numbered at thrlstrras by the snld'ers" wives of
Montreal, who tfctm gifts of stationary, to
ba<-cr». chocolate and other comforts. The Ottawa
soldiers' wives a: also re momborin; the soldiers*
chi I tin and every child h> the ctty, whose father
wears the Klnjr*a color* will N- invited to a supper
In the *Ir ill hall on .1 ini.ar> V\ Santa t'laus iias
promised ta be present ami distribute gifts from a
Christmas tr^t\ and afterward the grown pa will
have a dance.
A score of young worr.cn employed In th 3 Caa
ailiari civil str\ite were m.ule happ> on New
Year's Eve by the reeefpt of a Xew Year's gift
from Lord Stratkcbna and Mount Royal, the Can
adian llich Commissioner to England. When
Strathcona'fl Horse left for the front fhey carried
with them a SCI of guidons from tf'e women of th«
civil nenrlc*, and Lord Strathcoca expressed h!'
appreriatlon Cf the glfl by sending to each mem
ber of the committee that arranged the presenta
tion a facsimile of the badjre wi>rn by the mem
bers of Strathcona'a Horse, a golden shield show
ing the arms ol Strathcona and Mount Royal, sur
mounted by a coronet.
Sir William Macdonald, ft Montreal, has placei
at the disposal of th« Ontario govrrnment the sun
of HS.6N for the purpose of cstahlishinij schoo!3
of nature study and don:e.-ii,- science in lonnectioa
with the Ontario Agricultural College in Guelph-
The latter course will be for women, and will glva
special attention to the relation Ol domestic science
to agriculture. The government »i!l t;»k>» mm*
diate steps to carry out the plan, and Dr. Mill?,
principal of the Agricultural CfrUege^ has already
?cft for a tour in th-; I'nited States, to get idea*
for th- r.ev building
"Christmas at Haddo House"* was the title -->f su
attract little book sent by the Karl am! Countess
of Aberdeen to their friends In Canada tftU season.
The Illustrations wer» from a play called "The
Prienda and Fees of Queen Maty of Scotland.
adapted from sir Walter Scott's -Abbott.'" •» Miss
Teresa WlHon. secretary of the Canadian Council
of Women and pieS3nted by the h-ns^ P Hrt i n^;
iladdo House la^t Christmas. The pictures *so*
that much care was given ta ecstume; «nd projr
ertiea, and the features of Lor.l ar.l I.uly A°er
deen. Lord Haddo and Lady M irjer'.e »s or< - 0 °
plainly recognizable hi the various bsbbbbbbssi
characters.
A "// I \f,U"l/ I \."
From T!ic London Chronicle.
Women compete with men In many lra . d *s JS
fesslons and other means of obtaining a l' v t"rrY o
but the very last in which one would ' x ', #n *|y
Iliu! the gentle >;ex Is that which was so 'f 1 ' I "'^
followed by Mr P.illington. "Hangwoaaan js *
>bjectional term, but Is duly entered In "1' iorf
Knglish Dictionary." The woman anil !ne ..|\j«
•re both nineteenth century pr«lu«."tU>n». "£?
Betty." 1 as she v.-as called was not ■•}. f ,t*^S
•Ither. arid is described in -The Dublin LnUeriv
Magazine" for January. ISO. "as • ml " '"t-Liat
-tout m id.-, dark eyed, swarthy eo»npl<?slj»n«* th«
ny no means forhU'.ding. woman. ire la ml ZT Vp a .
uene of her labors, and she officiated unr f^ U!^:
«nd uni'lsßiiired as a woman fwaffw 1 . t V, 9
!>er of years, and often Bogged In and nr ?"*j!} ■ M
Greets, being extremely sever* parucsjasv
ihose of her ova sex.

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