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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, November 23, 1902, Image 19

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CHIC MILLINERY IN TAILOR MADE HATS. HY HAWKS HAT COMPANY. AT ITS STORES. SO. 1.23t, 835 AND 223 BROADWAY
WTTH PARIS TAILORS.
FULL SKIRTS FAVORED BY SOME-HITS
PRONOUNCED "OUT.'
Paris. t November 15.
Mahogany color •with a thread of dull red. run
ning through it makes a wool that represents the
color most In evidence In Paris at the moment.
The rough wools hi vogue, lend themselves readily
to warm shades, and the Paris tailors hay? taken
tip these colors •with enthusiasm. The wool re
ferred to has been made up With triple- skirts,
the edges of the three linished ■with an embroidery
of fine black braid arranged in scallops. Th.*
blouse fastens on the side under a broad box
pleat that Is trimmed with dainty black passe
menterie ornaments, and the full puff of th*
sleevt is finished In the same way. The sleeve has
a wristband of dull red velvet, embroidered with
black braid and fastened with a black silk orna
ment, and over the shoulders outlining the pointed
<Jecolletage are bretelles of velvet, three on each
side, lightly embroidered with black and finished
with black passementerie ornaments.
A model that seems to be rather gaining In
favor for tailored walking suits is the skirt with
the straight apron finished with three or two
shaped pieces on each side. This la a modification
of the shaped flounce. A prominent tailor is
bringing oat- this form of skirt now. a!th<->ui at
AS nrEKA BODICE.
DBS Srst of th»» season lie "'a.-" making no skirts
*:th shaped Bounces, A recent model from tills
plae* has a skirt of tola shape witli the apron
bordered •with stitched pleat* held by stitched
diamonds. The flounces are also heavily orna
mented with stitching. The blouse jacket liad
basque pieces arranged |n clusters of stitched
p!«>atg ornamentf-d with the diamonds and the same.
trimmlnp running up the closed front. Passe
menterie ornaments closed the garment.
FANCY STITCHING.
Btftcn • is nine in favor, and by this is
meant stitching independent of laid on pieces of
cloth. Then is. too. a '••' of stitched band but
more stitched blocks and diamond*. A rood deal
of the trimming on tailored suits is of the broken
variety.
Many of the soft, hairy zibeliues are nude dressy
and suitable for house arid reception gowns by
means of stitched bands of taffeta and Japanese,
•mbroldery. A sown of pearl sray zibellne— the
•oft. thin kind, that banes In folds almost a? soft
as crepe-has one. of the new skirts hung from a
■Mil yoke. It is trimmed about the bottom in a
<!»«!rn that rises on the sides in a lattice work
pattern of stitched taffeta bands in the same color,
framing squares of the fashionable Japanese em
broidery in dull greens and brighter blues. On the
bodice is a deep collar made of the lattice work,
cut out in part, sad in part filled ii with the em
broidery, and this hangs over a deep flounce of
ecru Jace. The short, lull sleeve* finish with trim
ming of taffeta bands and embroidery, and there
ere und<-r.-U-< v< s of 6ci I lace.
The zibcliiu-6 of the lightweight variety are par
ticularly well suited to the full skirts, which are
enjoying a certain \o3ue. They were dwelt on in
list week's letter. More and more of the dress
makers are making them, but, as was said then.
th«lr success will probably be limited. They only
appear well on slender figures, for really the hip
One at all full to quite sot of date The Paris
ire^maker assumes that her clients are able to
develop and suppress curves at will, and just now
hips arc pronounced "out."
The tunic gown, of which so much has been ** Id
this seam. mom* now with the tunic made long,
only a few inches shorter than the dress skirt.
Often it i. the dress ?klrt hung over a silk founda
tier, and shape* flounce, but again it forms a real
princes, with the bodice, and may be removed
with It like a cloak While the tun.c may have an
unbroken princess front, the back is generally
broken with a belt.
THE TUNIC GOWN.
A hand-ome gown of this sort is a drab or_ too,
•ray tfbeltoe. trimmed with a fancy ; black and
«ar k red braid and pa^ nl . nt. ri. . JjftOßtrt
the tunic I double brc-a.ted and trimmed do* n
one .We with a pattern don. in braid »dl^sae
■Mterta. -nd the same pattern ,uns about the
•mall part of the shift exposed The back of the
tunic ovcr«kirt hangs from «'">«* "*"££„„"
belt, and hangs in clusters £^"0, * r £ braid"
'Utched and trimmed with '"'"*'* i* »<£ „m .
out and trlmm«l with *»»eee tatto. It *»** woni
with a Urge ermine stole and cr ™ ln " l^rm of " a
other Instance of the fashion t«> lr AJ_l r fl over
my saline made with a long tunic hanging over
a shaped flounce. The flounce on the 8 ( . r 1 m t ln a ( . n^
abouldeVcape were trimmed with the *rmlni» tans.
About the throat was an ermine cravat.
Tbeee little fur cravate are new, and so le« or
th*s, are cc yet worn that they have a great deal
of dlsUactlra. They are merely a .straight *ur
cocker, crossing In front and held with an orna
ment cr bunch of tails. They »« flat, not roun d
~hlch make* them unlike the little fur animals
tin wen co modish about cix years ago.
Tbtrt were ecec beautiful velvet gwM.Torn at
Is If EARTH
D B2UD2IR,
h fashionable woddina; that took place last sreek
The most remarked on thmj; 111 velvet a'loose
mantle In beige color mlroir velvet, cut with
what might be described ns a great -hirred stole.
finishing below tho knees with a deep Nilk t'rlns:..' of
the same color. The back of the garment was. at
taeht-d to this under thr- arms, and made th" htg
mantle slee\>s. The sleevei and the back of the
garment were the same length, shorter than the
stolt Front, and finished with deep frince. The
Rtrmpiil did not close In front, and was lined with
a dull pink brocade. It was worn over a heavy
lace 'ir~ss and with a whit.- hat trimmed with
feathers.
SMART VELVET COSTUME
Very smart was a suit of French blue velvet, with
the skirt trimmed with rows of black silk braid.
The lowest rows made a border nearly a foot deep,
and the two upper ones were narrower. The braid
was silky and ornamental. On the blouse it was
used to form bretelles on the front In conjunction
with passementerie ornaments, and the same trim
ming was carried out on the bag of th.> sleeves.
The stole and muff were of sable, the latter only
showing a bunch of sable tails.
A black velvet suit had a pleated skirt, long and
full, but untrimmed. The bodice had a loose, pleat
ed bolero of black ChantJlly. short in the back,
falling in a point in front and half covering the
sleeves. About the throat was a cravat of ermine,
with little crossed ends, and the toque had an
ermine brim and was trimmed with black lace and
plumes. Over th<» arms was thrown a scarf of
sable, lined with ermine.
In several Instances lately the little fur chokers
have been worn with the Empire scarf, the fur not
always being the same. This would rather em
phasize the fact that the broad scarf is to be worn
about the shoulders, shawl fashion. The. narrower,
flat scarfs are sometimes worn, especially when
driving, carried twice about the throat and ends
hanging loose, like a man's high stock with the
ends unfastened. The same Idea, a high fur cra
vat, occurs on some advance! fur garments. It In
evidently the latest fad In furs, and it came rather
suddenly, after every one had expected to see
collarlcss fur garments generally used.
FINE PETIT GRIS.
An elegant example of fur garment is of petit
grip, with the loose, dolmanllke sleeves cut in a
piece with the hack and shoulders, and showing
their lining of ermine. The sleeves are slashed for
a way. and th.- garment Is split up on the sides.
The edges are everywhere finished by a dainty
ball fringe of gray silk, and there are gray silk
passementerie pieces closing the front. The little
choker, which passes twice about the throat and
ties loosely with short ends in front, is of ermine.
The petit gris seems to combine with every color
ana material. One can only ask now why this
pretty fur has been ro long neglected. At th«
opera the other evening was a simple but effective
evening cloak of white velvet made with a cape
and both cloa,k «nd cape were trimmed with a wkl*!
border of *ray squirrel. Th.- garment had also
handsome ropes anil ornaments of gray silk.
EXGAGIXG GIRLS Of tXDFA.
MlSri DOREMIB, OV INK-N MIBBIOKART S'»
< IKTV. TELLS OF THEIR LIFE
AMi LIMITATION?
Ed companj of women gathered In the
manager's room at the Bible House on Wednesday
to meet Miss s. \>. Doremus, secretary of the
Woman's I'nion Missionary Bodety, and hear her
tell Of her visit to the missions!*] stations In India.
fhina and Japan. .Miss Doremus, who had spi-nt
eight nioiitr»« In these countries, described fully the
life of •!.«• missionaries. "Th.- young girls of India,"
>Ai<i said amoriK other things, "quit. 1 won my heart.
They ar" most ..harming and attractive, and tluir
are pitiful beyond words. Hright arid quick
wim-.i, especially the Bengali, they remind one of
tb« Italians. Of course, they arc of the sam<*
Aryan stock as th»- Italian anci the American.
Tli.ro »re : went > -three nationalities In India, all
speaking different tongws; at a conference or
general gathering English is used for addresses,
that being a common language that all educati i
peak. Idol shrines ar< everywhere, and
images so hideous and disgusting that one wonder*
how such senseless worship of frightful figures
can hold India enthralled."
Th«> Eenanas, according to Miss Imrirnus, have
neither tnste nor luxury, "" r yet ease, only chill.
bar.- discomfort "No nation rises higher than its
women," she said, "and while these remain chUd
<i ignorant, there can be no tru<- progress.
Scientific and philosophical books, which ar«
found in the men's apartments, are unknown in the
senanas.
"The hospital at Jhanse, the orphanage at Cawn*
pore, the mission home at Allahabad, the orphan
age and school at Calcutta, with tlu-lr allied iuter
<-• ;s ar<- all centres of true religious life and ef
fort." said Ml-s Doremus. So is the hospital at
Shanghai. China,, with l>r. Relffinyder at the head
ai:d a corps ->f earnest workers under her. Thirty
live thousand patients came under its Influence In
the last year, and rooms ar«- engaged by native
women who once would have feared to enter its
doors.
"The school at 212 Bluff. Yokohama, was the first
Of its kind In that bind, and its teachers nre hon
ored and beloved. The older pupils have the true
missionary spirit, and gather the children out of
the streets and teach them to sing hymns and to
repeat Hlble le»«ons. These stations of the Wom
an's Union Missionary Society represent the first
work of woman for women in foreign lands; they
are finely equipped, and have noble women not a
f. w. in "their service."
IX MAX DESIGNS TO HAKE THEIR WAT.
Upholsterers predict that it is simply a question
of time when American-Indian designs will be
found on draperies, wallpapers and household fur
nishings generally, and American-Indian rooms In
the house will be as common as Oriental rooms.
The Navajo blanket, which has won immense pop
ularity of recent years, is cited as an instance In
point; yet it Is said the designs of the Hopl ln-1
lans of Tuaayan far surpass in interest those of
the Navajos.
•In all the Tusayan designs." says "The I plioi
sterer." birds and feathers far exceed all other
motifs. One of the characteristics of modern
decorations, especially as a sample of fecundity, is
the butterfly or moth, which is a standing design
on the beautiful cotton blankets woven by the men
aS "The d fl trlangle, typifying the double moth,
I, not only a constant symbol upon wedding blan
kets but also is found on the dados of houses, re
..mbling In design the arrangement of tiles in the
AlhambTa and other Moorish buildings. This cus-
«"f decorating the walls of the buildings with
«I^°o?^ lS 'verdt Utt^e m^ent On Ho|S
Tl'uinv of "he Tusaynn seem to have used plants
If Ihe cornflower or aster or sunflower, but more
'J wo "*- .""• w r i ilul* by Httle by repetition 50
{for, in time became -Imply a symbol.
inn; show of /-. k. I.
At * recent meeting of the Ladles' Kennel Jksao
rut on it wa 5 decided to bold n two days show
hlai-nlnß "n Memorial DW, « f »- gro«n«e of
V ™ members of the Ladles" Kennel Association
Mrs. G. A Freeman. ■ - - •
NEW- YORK DAILY TRIBUNE. SUNDAY. NOVEMBER 23. 1002.
MOrXTATXEKR PARTIES.
PICTURESQUE AM> CHARACTERISTIC
FESTIVITIES IX NORTH CAROLINA.
T.ikr- farm-is everywhere, tiro North Carolina
mountaineer finds the leisure time <-i his year be
tween the gathering <>i the crops in the autumn
and the sowing of the seed in the spring. There
i- always the chopping and hauling <>f wood and
tbe mending of fences t" be done, but as he has
no farm machinery, or only the simplest, he does
not have to spend anj energy In Its repair. Ami
as thr winters have no prolonged cold i:* store for
him h.- .id. s nol think it necessary to fortify his
liou*^ against it. being able t'> endure the brief
snaps that •■■inif- with a courage born " f his knowl
edge of their shori lifi
After fodder pulling t h*- older boys have time t>>
attend to their education, and they Join the young
er children :i? school; and then, too, l"-Rin the
opening festivities of t!i>- gay season- the huskings.
AT THE HUSKINGS
Perhaps no other parties give imir.- pleasure than
th.-''- same huskings for they an t': Brsl
season, and no have thi charm of novelty. The
weath r. t'>n. ts ;it Its lovellesl of th. whole year,
oven in this land of lovely weather. Under ■■<. hrill
i&nt moon, over roads still free from mud. young
people and '.Id walk together, singing snatches of
songs to the picking of a banjo. Near their host's
eorncrib they find :i huge pile of unstiucked corn
nwaltiiiK them. They kneel around it In ;» half
circle. Jack taking p-iin* to -■ ' ur< a place next to
Jill, and Romeo Blipping Into the shadow where
be '';i:i perhapc find ;< chance r <( squeezing Juliet's
hand un*f«n by tt;- 1 rest. The line d
tir.'ly surround tlic oom. becausi the ears
are sliurkfj. ar<» tn^s.-d over !!;•■ mound and form
ONE WHO HAS GROWN OLD IN THK NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAINS
a new pile of tbeir own on the other side. As the
work advances the host goes down the line refresh-
Ing his guests with blackberry wine, or with the
less palatable but more exciting corn whiskey.
Tongues are loosened, the .si]i«i!:g grows more live
ly and fingers fly faster when they are encouraged
by its stimulus. The songs arc usually hymns, for
there is no banjo now to set the tone to gayety,
and so they naturally sing the music thai they
know best without accompaniment, but the laugh
ter tlvat breaks <>ut almost constantly shows thai
their thoughts are noi religiously turned
As the pile diminishes the line draws nearer and
nearer, and wild squeals announce that some one's
head has been hit by a flying ear of corn. If the
some one happens to be a man who has be< n ex
citing himself by whiskey to the outloing of his
neighbors, he is ready to accuse the sender of the
missile of having thrown it on purpose, and there
may ensue one of the tights that too Often stain
with bloodshed the souls of these uncontrolled
people. Hut the weapon is more apt to have come
with the uncertain aim of a girl— and to be hit by
a girl is a pleasure, of course.
After every ear has been stripped of its
ing the men perch their host upon their shoulders
and carry him to the house. Where his Wife claims
the assistance of the young girls In serving the
supper— saucers of sorghum to be eaten with slices
of "light bread," cake, canned peaches, apples.
For hours they c it and sing and laugh, and it is
only when the moon is sinking that they beam to
think of going home. They part lingering! y. with
cries of "Don t forget!' "Don't you tell what I
told you. Mamie' "Goodby. Remember Ussie's
poke DSXty!"
THE POKE PARTY.
The next Thursday finds the same people gath
ered at lassie's to enjoy her party. The number
of huskers i- augmented by the presence of sundry
young mothers] who were not able to take their
babies to an outdoor party at this time of year,
bat who have brought them to Ussie's and laid
them on the be.l In one of the two rooms which
constitute the house. Occasionally the Infants In
terrupt the festivities by lamentations, but the
right mother always recognizes the voice of her
offspring. ■>"* quietly lpave<« the room to silence
the cri«s.
A poke Is a has:. the same thins: you buy ■> pig in
if you are not >' judicious purchaser. hence a poke
party Is a b«c party. It la a function usual!; Riven
for the enrichment of the In Bless. Bhe prepares
a certain number of suppers (corresponding to tho
profcablo cumbw or hsr gmsts). sandwiches c:
.-■, ... \
various kinds, cake, fried chicken, and puts them
into brown paper bags. Every lad buys one for
his lass and one for himself, and they sit side by
side and cat them, and perhnps he tells her that
he wishes they might do it all the rest of their
lives, and she says "Lor"!' 1 and siggles mightily.
After supper they dance, as Lteste Is not a mem
ber of a denomination that disapproves. Some of
the boy* and girls are Baptists and Methodists,
however, and they circumvent the religious diffi
culty by not crossing their feet in the intricate
step* with which they ornament the "cotillon," or
quadrille. A fiddler who turns bis violin upside
down upon hi.* knee and plays anything that Is
whistled to him makes the feel of even the matrons
tap th>- Moor In sympathy with his tunes, while the
> o ing men bow and prance and stamp and oc
casionally "pat" a rhythmic accompaniment, and
the girls laugh and bend and swlnß with an aban
don and an enjoyment pleasant to see.
WHEN TO WEAR "TACKY 1 CLOTHES.
a few weeks later some our perhaps "Bud" Rick
man's wife, Bertha— gives a party of a kind that
affords so much amusement that there is always at
least one of them during tin- season. This function
involves a greai deal of preparation "i, the part of
the guests, and is called a "tacky party." The
Century Dictionary defines "tacky" as an ill fed
and neglected or rough and bony horse or person.
The mori frequent use of the word describes a per
eon whose manners are vulgar or whose dress Is
queer. At a tacky party all the participants wear
tacky clothes- every sort of wild looking costume,
cither old or ugly or unique. "Bud"' Rlckman. for
Instance, has on a pair of trousers with one leg
cut off at the knee, displaying a woman's stocking,
purple with red polka dots, chosen from a new box
of hosiery selected by the storekeeper of the settle
ment to please th« African eye by Its lurid hues.
The cut end of the trouser leg is bound about the
knee by a ligature of white cotton cloth, and
streamers of the same material, tied to every coat
button, slap about vigorously when "Hud" dances
with the most recent bride. Meta <?arren.
She is wealing a shirt waist and skirt of dis
cordant colors, put on hind side before. Her hair is
pleated in two tails that hang down in front, in
stead of over her shoulders, and she looks upon the
party through a window of mosquito netting let
into the back of a nunbonnet. whose opening Is
"looking backward." S'eratea Uarren. her husband,
has one shoe daubed with red clay and the other
with limi A string of Irish potatoes hangs around
ills neck and he displays a watch chain of chinqua
pins, attached to a watch that, like Brian O Lynn ?.
Is a "turnip all scooped out within."
After all the costumes have been discussed and
criticised, a prize is given to the one that is con
sidered to be most tacky. Usually the prize Is a
cake, which is passed, about by the winner and
vanishes with marvellous quickness. There Is only
.1 wee bit for each guest, and It serves for an ap
petizer to induct- tli. m to patronise the cakewalk
that Bertha announces to be ready in the next
room.
MOUNTAIN CAKEWALK.
The size of the ballroom precludes the possibility
of more than one Bel dancing at a time, so while
those four couples go through the cotillon to the
music of the sain.- fiddler who played at Llssle's
(he Is as drunk as a lord to-night, and consequently
Is playing with unusual spirit), the rest, ten or
more at a time, engage In the cakewalk.
This performance Is quite unlike a negro Cake
walk, where the cake is the reward for "form" in
walking. Here. as In the poke party, the walk ac
crues to the financial benefit of the hostess. Each
man asks a girl to "walk" with him. and at the
door he pays 10 cents apiece for the privilege of en-
Joying the exen-lse. In the middle of th.- table is a
frosted oak.-, ornamented with bits of pink candy.
and around it are turned down plates corresponding
In number to the girls. The procession walks
gayly around the table to the sound of the music
that" sifts through the wall from the cotillon, but
there l<? no attempt at fancy steps. When Rertha
chips her hatnis they strip, and each girl lifts the
plate before which she finds herself and examines
the hit of paper under It. All the slips are blank
except one, and the Kirl who finds "enke" written
on hern proudly -•:/.■•- the prize and distributes it
among the less'fortuniite contestants.
Then Bertha rearranges the plates, puts another
enki' on the tabU and j-ummons the next group.
who are just outside the door, eagerly waiting for
their chance to "walk."
In the course of the winter a wandering teacher
may establish .1 writing BChool for a fortnight, or a
singing school, and debating clubs are born and die
and are born again, and every chance for meeting
or.- another, even on these serious pretexts, is
hailed as a social opportunity by the people of these
spars'- settlements among the big hills.
DEVELOPMh'SI OF TBS CHILD.
Und°r the title of "Development or t!i*> Child in
Later Infancy." Miss Alary E. Wilson has trans
lated the second half Of a work by Professor Ga
briel 1 'ompayre. rector of the University of Lyons.
and called in the original "L* Evolution Bntellectu
elle et Morale ,ie rEnfant" (D. Appleton & Co.,
New-York). The book appears in the International
Education Series published by this firm. and. like
the :ift\ -o.il volum-s preceding it. is edited by Will
iam T. Harris. United Stati s Commissioner of Edu
cation.
The present volume treats of the functions which
develop into prominence in later infancy, such as
imitation and curiosity, Judgment and reasoning,
learning to talk, .levelopment of the moral sense,
faults and virtues of childhood, mental alienation In
childhood, and the feeling of selfhood and the sense
Qf personality. As an aid to child study. Professor
Compayre's observations and deductions will be
found suggestive, although the fact that European
children furnish the material from which the de
ductions are drawn militates somewhat against Its
utility to the American mother.
Regarding the instinct of curiosity, to which con
siderable attention is paid, the author says:
Confined at first to the simple observation of the
nature of familiar things, analogous to the work
of examination performed by a new tenant in the
house he has taken, curiosity very soon passes the
limits of personal Interest. The child of two or
three years looks -it everything, listens to every
thing; his Investigating > yes ferret out all the cor
ners. Moreover, as soon as he understands the
meaning of words, nothing in the conversations he
hears escape* him When he can talk, he takes
part In everything; he becomes Inquisitive and
wants to know everything. Nor is It only by his
p. rpetual questions that he win show hH curi
osity. ever on th« alert. On« of the results of «ci
entific curiosity in th» grown man la to be found
in collections: th» child makes them. too. In his
own way. Keg a child of three or four years of
age to empty his pockets before you. Nothing could
be more amusing than the display of this jumble.
where he has packed nway, pell mell, all sorts of
objects, partly, no doubt, lvi-3'iw he wanted to
appropriate them and hare them at Ms disposal.
hi.i partly, also, from curloaltv. to study them at
his leisure, by the same sort of mania that we see
In collectors of curios. ...
A S
933 Broadway. 21—22 Streets.
Hair Ornaments.
For the social functions of this
season, such as the Opera. Theatre. Dinner?, etc..
I have an unusually fine collection of Hair Ornaments especially designed to l>e suitable for
these occasions. This 15 the only house that has made a specialty of this eta of goods. All
the styles are unique, and only the richest materials arc used.
i SPECIAL NOTlCE.— Orders for special designs in Tortoise and Amber Shell Orna
ments, that are intended as gifts tor the coming holidays, should be given at once to avoid
disappointment.
Ha.ir Goods.
Before purchasing or ordering elsewhere, why not first examine my immense assortment
of beautiful Coiffures? I am sure that you will be convinced that no other firm can show
such tine quality of Human Hair, workmanship so superior, and design; M novel.
Wigs L i -nd Toupees Gent i; r men
when of my make arc guaranteed to give entire satisfaction as to fit. perfect match to your
own hair and illusiveness in appearance. All rare and beautiful shades not to be found
elsewhere I have on hand in great profusion.
NO BRANCH STORES. NO AGENTS.
" Only at 933 Broivdv»a.v Between 21st and 22d Sts.
HAUTES HOUVEAUTES DE PARIS
SIMM ZfOAILLERIE
SIMM DIAMONDS
SIMM ORIENTAL PEARLS
PERL.ES NINON
SMOURNING JEWELRY
PARFUMECRIE EXQUISIA,
GANTSDUCHESSE.GANTS ALBERT
CORSETS LAVALLIERE
FRENCH VEILINGS
A. F. JAMMES
arm st. kst. NEAR bth AYE.
FOR THE OPERA BEABOy.
ARTISTIC IMPORTATIONS AT ARNOLD.
CONSTABLE & CO. ?
As the opera season approaches evening gowns
and wraps are a subject of Increasing Interest.
Probably nowhere in the city can these be found
in greater profusion and perfection than at Arnold.
Constable & Co.'s. Broadway and Ntneteenth-st.
Triumphs of color harmony and graceful outline,
from Paquln. Doucet. Beer, Callot Sceurs and all
the beat foreign arllsts are on exhibition
One of th.» palest blue moussellne de sole gowns.
tucked vertically about the hips, has a deep flounce
of repousse lace motifs, of the same. just below the
tucking, and extending to the knees. Rich medal
lions of this lace head the flounce of the sam« at
the bottom of the skirt. The bodice is domi-decol
let*, with deep Bruges and repousse lace, and
strapped with pale blue velvet ribbon studded with
pearls. The wide crush belt is of blue and sliver
moire, and still another gown of white satin foun
dation has a drop skirt of white chiffon, and a sec
otnl. of point d"esprit. covered with lace medallions
richly spangled. Two dtep flounces of exquisite
chenille fringe decorate th- skirt. Th. bodice Is cut
low anil combines a touch of blue with lace .-■.■,. i
chenille effects similar to those used on the skirt.
The majority of the French gowns are very low
this season, and the favorite In sleeves is a deep
fall of lace, covering the elbow, from a knotted
ribbon around ths arm below the shoulder.
A point d'esprit. charmingly suited to a debutante,
has a deeply flounced skirt, with tulle ruchlngs
shirred V shaped about The hips and wreathed
with dainty fringes of tiny pink tipped daisies.
The wide bodice belt or' pink touisine 01 drawn up
from the waist it; the back and cioeaed over the
shoulders. The effect Is no\el and charming.
Some of the loveliest gov.ns or the season are
wholly hand made, princess in outline, locked from
throat to hem with broad alternating stripes of
medallions, fagot stitched Into the materials.
In wraps there arc In this shop some of the
smartest. One of full length is an exquisite crea
tion of white broadcloth, crocheted lace oxer black
satin, with ermine stole collar. In furs there are
some of the newest divided stoles In ermine, dantlly
lined with black lace over white satin. A mink
vtctorine has the skins so joined as to give the
effect of sloping shou'ders. considered so desirable
in former Victorian days. The fur is narrowed to
the waist in front, and ircm there broadens in
stoles to the bottom of the skirt. A blouse coat of
Russian sable and heavy Irish lace has a muff of
tin heads and nine tails to match. A full length
wrap of brettschwang has a broad Russian collar
and uecp cuffs of ermine, and Is cr.e of the hand
somest garments of its kind seen this season.
Sets in silver lynx, white fox and cloth and ziheline
wraps for street wear are to be seen in a full as
sortment. , ..
There are also imported tea gowns and matinees,
with a bewildering array of silk skirts and fancy
waists The silk flounce on Jersey lop is mucn
worn and can here be had in gre\t variety, trous
seaus and matched sets of exquisitely fine under
wear as well as single plecea, night robes and
skirts can be hud at the price of a hundred or
more each. Fine cotton waists. Imported novel
ties are much worn this winter, with golf sweat
ers.' and the newest in ti.ls fashion can be seen at
Arnold. Constable & Co/a,
WHAT A GIRL CAS MAKE.
The girl who does not find herself more happy
and useful after "What a Girl an Make and Do"
(Si-ribner New-York) is placed in her hands can
not be the -Irons, healthy, independent, athletic
American girl lor whom this book was written.
"Resourcefulness a. id a wish to do things for
one's self are American traits strongly developed
in the girls as well as the boys." say Llna Beard
and Adelia Beard, the authors, in their preface,
and it is with a view to encouraging girls to do
things for themselves and to pointing oat some
directions in which they may gratify their ambi
tions for making and doing that this book has
been written. The drawings, of which there arc
■i large number are all original, as in "The Ameri
can * Glrrs Handy Book." to which this is a com-
P ThS l who t peeps Into this book will find her
self Introduced to the possibilities of an Easter
egg to vacation work with corn-husk basket*,
sweet-grass mats and lavender sticks; to vegeta
ble animals, fruit lanterns, homemade pyrote.-h
°' priscllla rugs, a peanut Noah's Ark. a flower
feast an " \be" Lincoln log cabin, home made
musical instruments and Christmas decorations.
She will find herself Initiated into themysterijs
of statuary, tableau*, witch writing, basketball,
a make believe sewing machine, sponge gardens.
active games" Indian pipes, insect music and star
fish Does she want to know how to make an
Faster egg frog that will swim, or a paper but
terfly that will fly. or to hatch a penguin from an
etc or to print a monotype, or manufacture a
crystal flute out of bottles and a strip of paste
board? Then she will learn all about them In this
Ingenious book.
RETURX OF THE EPERGXE.
The old fashioned epergne is making Its way to
the fore again as more or less of a novelty. #,
particular", attractive English deslsn in crystal
and silver consists of a group of vaselik*> flower
holders, the centre on* tall and slender, those sur
rounding 't beins: In floral shapes and detachable.
Fo» few covers. th».«e Are- separated and distributed
about the table. Different colors hi Italian cut glass
are also employed with good effect.

rt'RF SELFISHNESS.
From Puck.
M«e— How dtd#Be>?ic raise the mon?y to 50
abroad and study^muslc?
Ethel— neighbors took up a subscription, I
bclteva.
«l PRRFM'OI'S HAIR
Radically I>«tr»ye4. MMX .h:
UAJTS SPECIFIC, b*fr.r- th»
puMlr v. \»ars hero an<t atunad.
cures th- worst growth. N<-» mln»
■!•. -l-otrl.-itv. pntson or pair. Ab
solutely harmles«. Cure guaran
teed. «'.i!! or a.1.1r»»»
MMX. Jl HAN.
1 .'».-. West ~d St.. N. V.
O r HIRN ART shop.
j^^fy^^^ J - W SM st - <trpstairi.>
/V^^>v\ SHIRT WAIST*
m ■ c »1 9 nUmped to order in -• m detenu, in
t\^V V I r!udlng iff and conrentlonal de—
r liana. New French collar and cuf?
sets stamped. .15 eeaaa rommenrei
C^B^^M^*^ pieces fur lioiiiay work in simple de
~ 9f signs.
SI . For Exclusive Social Function*.
_,( [s/ZI/f Ball and Mu * lc Rooms. Bowline
~f «/»"* I _J Allejj. .atorinit. Centrally :•■
c JJjC J ~~* cated. Telephone 4.011 P.lver-
U side.
tn it." WEST :r>Tit ST.
G. MAWTO, Ladies' Tailor,
171 & 173 UTH WE.. OR 12TH ST.
Ten furnish the material Tallor-ma<ie gowns to
er4er from *12 L P. Ready-made Suits tn slock. $U
UP. worth 121. Skirt* ?-"> UP. worth $ii Garmmta
ordered here are made in the latest styles and «t Kuar
antee an
" ABSOLUTELY PERFECT FIT.
G. TOMEI, LADIES' TAILOR
pfi Ml Aye. You furnish material .- . la to order $& set
Jackets *.*■ ui>. Skirts $3 up. Perfect fit.
HOUSES CLEANED.
' islttm housekeeping a specialty. Servants wiCTitM.
Marketing for town ant country. ■:-■■■-." taken.
Chaperoning and shopping.
Mrs. SILJJMAN. Mr* JONES. 28 v>-«<t 33rd Street.
FUR GARMENTS
rtedy»d or altered int« fashionable shape* — tarn prices.
THE BARKER FIR CO.. 11* W. 50T1I ST.
GOLJ3STEIN. 1.031 Broadway. Fasfctonablf" LmSKHT
• Tailor an.i Habit Maker. Suits to order. Silk ltr.««
throughout, from $oO up. perfect fit and workmanship
guaranteed. "-'. '
DR. STANLEY'S
DRY AIR CURE.
PROMPT, SAFE, CERTAIN*.
IN EVERY CASE OF GOUT. RHEUMATISM.
SCIATICA. STin JOINTS or OPEMATOI'S SWELL
ING. ETC.. NO MATTER HOW VENOMOUS TUB
lUSKAsr <•!•- LONG STANDING I CAN CUKE TOW
PROMPTLY AND PERMANENTLY, without the us- of
drugs or m.»<lieln»s: rell«f o: p*in uttl soreness is !n«tan—
taneouu. MV DRY AIR CT'RE ahsort>s the poisonous
a.-t.l«. raJctam salts or chalky .jf posits, tones ■'• in
vigorates aa purnies the entire m sf **rn.
KA'P PEOPLE, 1 « %> HKIII « X YOI 41 II KI.Y
AM» rKHMANENTI.Y TO %\V W F.K.HT
OK MRVSI'RE-MIHT VOt MAY DESIRE.
* ith.>ut "oTTanse «*f diet or mode of in Inc. N" «mis«.
rathartt'"» nor medicines o" any kind; no ban-Jaste?. ex
, ternal lotions nor ex.*rcl*es.
MY DRY AIR TREATMENT
aMorbs th* surplus tissue from any part of the r«Mr
deslreU. Without causing wriiiJi - or ftabMnes* of «kln.
heavy abdomen and other evidences of obesity disappear.
Complexion la cleared. TrouM*** of th^ heart, kidneys art*i
stomach or other \ iial organs are speedily rem*dlel.
leaving: >ou healthy, strong and rejuvenated. Th!» insti.
tutlon is >■■> arranged that the privacy and serwration of
patient* are ■.•Mired Trained rtirses in .-.'!-•■ i.l. -
4M!t .ITH WE.. \fnr l^d St- \m York City.
Patients revived from » A. M. to i P. M.
TELEPHONE CAI.U S.Mi 3STH.
N"te adtlrej? _ Th!* a v •■**;•■■■ ■• may not appear again
in this paptr. • . ■"* ,
MISS WILD. MRS. JANES
Employment Bureau, 28 W. 33rd St
The test nt Mnants «;•* encage! only a?t«r str ft r>*r
sonal InvestisaUon "f r»ferehce"». A «r»c!a!ty is tna«i» of
pp#ninc and cleaning houws. Hooartwcpcra twnrktn* an.t
resident) and chaperons suovltcii. Tel. 3.433 Madison 5-n.
SEES IX thk SHOPS,
Novelties in umbrella handles include owl duck
and parrot heads el natural size. Miniature bull,
bear and gnat heads are also seen. Hornets. be«»
tles. frogs and lizards in metal and enamel 011 nat
ural wood handles are much In demand, and in
some examples the snake or lizard head is curved
to form the crook of the handle, while the body
and tall wind about the rod to IBM depth of six or
eight inches. A long feather in gilt metal forms
the handle of a more ornamental line. A r.oveHy
that will appeal to feminine convenience is ■ pol
ished metal globe finishing a plain handle. Both
sides of this globe open, one containing a small
mirror and powder puff, and the other arranged a-*
a purse. Tiny branches of holly and sprays of mis
tletoe in metal and enamel also srace the umbrella
handles of the season and a nuns head and shoul
ders, the gown of ebony, the hen I drapery in Ivory
and the face flesh tinted, Is a new '■** A fad of
the moment is to have the border of the umbrella
repeated on th» stick. a single band or several nar
row stripes, rows or small iota. etc. Th- can*
umbrella Is a novelty for men It has a leather
sheath resembling dressed wood so shaped that
when closed it is a counterpart^ a stout walking
stick.
An original toilet shown by a first class ho-!«» i»
entirely of ermine, with facings and trimmings of
black velvet. a black velvet toque, large and flat.
with a single ermine skin on one f>u!e and tatting
over IBM back, accompanies thi*. The §**■■ is of
nrtneesa cut. with a deep Bare at the bottom. Ti«
impression is that of a light flams reUlngote, and
the effect is m.^i nnkins
The latest in boas is a tucked taffeiu tai* -collar,
edged with gathered chiffon. It has only a low
ruffle about the neck, and is especially gued to
wear under an opera cloak or heavy wrap, so that
when this is thrown off the BSMsMera will be pro
tected by the light and d.xinty urderT.rap. Th****
wraps are of all colors, but light grays and white
seem to be most in demand.
Much larger patterns In embroidered effects in
hosiery are the fad of the moment. Where hereto
fore forget-me-nots, daisies and rosebuds ■BSMjaSI
Instep and ankle, tulips, poppies and even sun
fiowers take t'.ielr places in all the brilliancy of
their native color*. A striking design in openwork
silks is of the fleur de Ms .1 single stalls directly
down* the centre of the front, with bud and life
sized blossom displayed across the Instep.
A new fancy waistcoat SI of light tan linen duck,
double breasted, with the top buttons ten inches
apart. This width gradually narrows until the two
rows meet in the lowest button, just below th«
waist. The effect desired and thus produced is of
breadth or" chest and slendernesa at the waist line.
l\l\t:RslTY COURSES PM THIS CUD.
University courses for business women have- bees
arranged by the Chicago Business Women's Club.
«nd »ill offer their members work identical with
that of student- in IBM University of Chicago. "Mas
t'-rri*ces of Kngltsh Literature' is the first an
nouncement, and classes will me-t In th" dub's
rooms. It Is a new departure In th« !tn» of chit*
study and quit* In line with ih* up »•■> 4»t# methods
of C*hl«-aso/ women. This chit* has a m*ml>*rshis>
of «<« women, including lairy-rs. newspaper
■•omen, court stenographers.* physicians and ethers
la various lines of active business.
3 x

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