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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, July 05, 1908, Image 18

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V THE ROFW.
BY AI.THEA GYLES.
!For one short season of the. year the Rose
Blossoms in radiant majesty set high!
Then the brief glory of the summer goes.
And cold winds toss bare branches to the sky.
4s"et through the tears of mournful autumn
hours.
Through barren winter, and compassionate
spring,
/tinder fast-fading, bare, or quickening bowers
Our hearts still dream the Rose's blossoming:
!The burning hands of lovers do but close
On some bright scattered petals of the whole.
Love — the lover — holds the perfect Rose
' In the immortal Summer of the Soul!
SUNDAY, JULY 5, 1908.
Periodically some one arises to ask why in
fie world we do not have to-day more men of
rental comparable to those of forty or fifty
Fears ago. Of course, no one has a conclusive
answer to the question, but that does not make
Jtt any the less amusing as a topic. The latest
Hnxious inquirer is a writer in the London
►Nation." According to him the great men of
the 70's came at a time fortunate for them
selves. "Poets, artists, essayists, scientists,
were in large measure the conscious prophets
or interpreters of new, large, transforming
ideas, the quick fruitage of recent discovery
and audacious speculation in fifty new fields."
Now, it appears, such oracles are dumb, and "the
great liberative and stimulative thoughts of
» generation ago seem to have become conser
vative and restrictive, almost paralyzing In
fluences of to-day." How are we to explain the
Blump in oracular stimulus? Science must be
our new whipping-boy. If we are to believe
our plaintive little oracle it is science that has
"over mechanized our thinking and our outlook
upon life, as it has our industries." We have
fallen upon evil days. "The glow and inspira
tion have died out of the new thought and have
left a dull heritage of semi-fatalistic formulae,
breeding excessive caution, and Imposing the
Intellectual duty of going slow." All this is
exceeding dreadful and we hope that a man of
genius will turn up without delay.
Apropos of genius, we may note an aspect of
It brought out by Lord Rosebery in speaking
of Lord Kelvin. "What most struck me," be
Bald, "was his tenacity, his laboriousness, his
Indefatigable humility. In him was visible none
of the superciliousness anil scorn which some
times embarrass the strongest intellects. With
out condescension, he placed himself at once
on a level with his companion. That ha? seemed
to me characteristic of such great men of
science as I have met." It goes with greatness
In every field. The "Saturday Review," com
menting on Lord Rosel»ery's words, alludes to
the smaller men, the men who have never
originated anything, as so often being "impa
tient, spiteful, jealous, assertive, impressed as
profoundly by their own superiority as by the
Stupidity of nine-tenths of humanity." If the
scientist is capable of this foolish conduct the
mediocre author or artist can easily beat him
at the game. The great writer, looking back
over years of splendid achievement, will dis
close in his talk a simplicity and a modesty
positively beautiful. We have heard a great
painter speaking of art in general and of his
own work in particular in such wise that no
one unacquainted with his history would have
suspected the position lie held in his world. It is
noticeable, too, that men of this kind are apt
to be chary of words and that when they do
speak they have something to say. The small
fry in both professions are bad enough when
they are grossly self-assertive, but they are
worse when they adopt what can only be de-
BCribed as a tone of quiet complacency.
Is any romancer looking for material out of
which to make a tidy little volume and a tidy
little sum? Let him profit by the generosity
of Mr. Andrew Lang, who makes him a pres
ent, if he chooses to take it, of all that is need
ful for his purpose. The hero, ready to the
industrious novelist's hand, is a Covenanting
gentleman whom Hr..LdUig thus describes:
He was what you may call a blade: always
first in the charge and last in the retreat. He
could not ride a league without meeting an
adventure. The ladles were ever his best allies,
and ho had such a strong sense of humor that
he set the sanguinary Privy Council of Scot
land, of whom !)'• was the prisoner, laughing at
the delightful coolness with which ho chaffed a
bishop. They did not torture this hero, they
did not hang him, though he was as guilty of
high treason as a man could bo. He was in the
thick of a battle against his King, but he had
carefully prepared an excellent alibi. He used
to nave premonitory dreams, -which came true,
and so he steered clear of every danger.
Who was this paragon whose sense of honor
was "3 strong as his sense of humor, to whom
persecution -was a lark, and who married the
woman he loved when they were both very
young, and lived in happiness with her for more
than fifty years? Are we to take him as only
a Bgmeat of Mr. Lang's always fertile imag
ination? Far from it. He was a minister of
the Kirk, the Rev. William Witch, and flour
ished mightily in Scotland in the good old
Covenanting days. lie left some memoirs,
■which were edited by the late Dr. ITCrie some
fourscore years ago and duly published by the
Staid house of IHackwood. The novelist who
took him in hand would be in luck. Failing his
interposition, a new edition of the memoirs,
might not come amiss.
NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY, JIXY 5, 1008.
GAUDS AND TRINKETS.
A Good I list or?/ of Jcrc cilery in AU
Ages.
JEWELLER® By 11. Clifford Smith. M. A (The
Connoisseur's Library.) Illustrated. Svo, pp.
xlvi, 410. G. I*. Putnam's Sons.
When Henry VIII ascended the throne of
England lie presented to the world an indubi
tably manly and even a formidable figure. But
this t stalwart and ruthless monarch was as hu
man a creature as ever swayed the destinies of
a people, and in the matter of his personal
adornment had as sharp a vanity as was pos
sessed by any of those ladies who walk, now so
bravely and now so pathetically, through the
annals of his reign. Here is a description of
him, written early in that reign by Giustinian,
the Venetian Ambassador: "He wore a cap of
crimson velvet, in the French fashion, and the
brim was looped up all round with lacets and
gold enamelled tags. . . . Very close round
his neck he had a gold collar, from which there
THE INTERIOR OP A GOLDSMITH'S SHOP IN THE FIFTEENTH UsUUUU
(Prom the painting by Petrus Christus.)
hung a rough-cut diamond, the size of the
largest walnut I ever raw, and to this was sus
pended a most beautiful and very large round
pearl. His mantle was of purple velvet lined
with white satin, the sleeves open, with a train
more than four Venetian yards long. This
mantle was girt in front like a gown, with a
thick gold cord, from which there hung large
golden acorns like those suspended from a car
dinal's hat; over this mantle was a very hand
some gold collar, with a pendent St. George en
tirely of diamonds. Beneath the mantle he
wore a pouch of cloth of gold, which covered a
dagger; and his finders were one mass of jew
elled rings." Thus the great ones of the earth,
and many of their lesser contemporaries,
flaunted themselves both in England an.l
France in the sixteenth century, carrying "the
price of woodland, water mill, and pasture on
their barks." Thus mankind has, indeed, sought
to make itself glorious from the earliest recorded
days. Mr. Smith has made an exhaustive study
of the subject, and has written thereon for "The
Connoisseur's Library" one of the best volumes
contributed to that excellent series.
The ancient Egyptians doted on jewellery.
They used in its fabrication the costliest mate
rials, and bo keen a sense had they of the value
of their ornaments that they went to quaint
shifts to preserve them. The dead were sup
posed to be adorned in the tomb with the pre
cious trinkets they had worn in life, but, as a
matter of fact, many a mummy had to get along
with cheap models of the jewels originally worn.
Those were kept and sported by his or her heirs.
Diadems, necklaces, and rings were much in use
in Egypt Mr. Smith notes that color played an
important part in the making of those things.
It Is not surprising. The lavish use of color in
Egyptian architectural decoration long since
showed to archaeologists the passion of the
country for gorgeous effects. Both in Egypt
and in Phoenicia much beautiful jewellery was
produced, but it was of course in Greece that
the craftsman became, in a peculiar sense, the
artist, exercising a wonderful faculty of design
in his r.handling of motives drawn from
flowers, animal life and the human flgnre. The
Etruscans were remarkable jewellers. The his
t-.rian states that they had a special love for
rings, "every finger. Including the thumb, was
covered with them." Granulation, the decora
tion .fa surface of gold with fine granules, was
especially well practised by them, and "they
possessed a peculiar art of fusing and Joining
metals by the use of solvents unknown to us,
whirh r- i. tiered invisible the places of solder."
Their secrets are t-> this day past finding out
Roman ostentation naturally found rich oppor
tunities in the domain of Jewellery. Mr. Smith
mentions the lady described by Pliny. At a
simple betrothal ceremony she was covered
with pearls and emeralds from head to foot
Indulgence in rings was carried to an amazing
extent. 'Martial sptuks of a man who wore
six on every fin^tr. and recommends another
who had one of monstrous size to wear on his
leg instead of his hand." Some rings were not
only large, but very h"avy, and therefore un
comfortable in hot weather. The gilded youth
of Rome solved the difficulty by having different
sets of rings for summer and v.inter. The be
lief in the magical power of amulets gave the
Roman Jeweller another profitable chance.
Ladies wore necklaces of amber, for that mate-
rial was regarded as a talisman for protection
against witchcraft. Amber inclosing small in
sects was particularly prized. Pliny notes that
"the price of a small figure in it, however di
minutive, exceeds that of a living, healthy
slave."
In remote centuries, with the rise and fall of
civilization, the artistic quality of jewellery was
bound to fluctuate, but at no time was its charm
disdained. Even the warlike Celt wore around
his heavy throat a torque of pure twisted gold.
"While the goldsmiths of Byzantium were keep
ing alive the spirit of their craft and society !
elsewhere was in the melting pot, the barbarians
of Europe were nevertheless making, after their !
fashion, personal ornaments of pure gold. The
fact is that as time went on men came to read*
ize that jewellery was, after all, but another form
of money. Charlemagne put a stop to the prac- ;
tice of burying the dead with their weapons and
jewellery. He forbade it not only because it
r.macked of heathenism but largely because "he
saw the disadvantage of so many costly objects
being withdrawn from circulation, with conse- i
quent loss to the national resources." The pros- j
perous man of the Middle Ages was quick to see '
the advantage attaching to the possession of
jewels. "An unfortunate war or royal displeas
ure." says Mr. Smith, "might cost a prince or
baron his land or his castles; but his movable
goods, consisting of precious stones and gold
and silver ornaments, were not so easily ex
posed to the vagaries of his superiors."
As far back as the year 1100 the goldsmith
was an important person, held to a high stand- '
ard. A treatise of that distant time shows that j
he was required to be a modeller, sculptor,
smelter, enameller, Jewel mounter and ln!ay
worker. In the Middle Ages precious stones
were regarded with superstitious reverence, be
ing associated with the traditions of the Church
or being assumed to have talismanic virtues. ,
There is an old manuscript, the writer of which
was convinced that such gems as the ancients
carved were never made by man's hands, but
had to be found. "A stone engraved in one man
ner," he gravely declared, "yon should suspend
about the neck, as it enables you to find treas- !
urc-s; the impression in wax of pnothsr ?tone ■will
cause men to sfeak well of you." Certain stones
i were used as "touching pieces'*; tha*^
j were placed in contact with food or we. V
Into liquids in order to neutralize or#^
presence of poison. A bit of th« her* --^
; of a fish was pat forth as the horn of » **■
. and was willingly bought by the man a^
ward offgpoison. The Jeweller «2ocbt!efc
* higher price for his fraud because oftv *
he was supposed to brave In search c; tlT 5
liable substance. Here are some old taJ^
subject: *l
An angry Tmlr*rrn« In hl3 fan -%ttj.
Chares with two swift a foot aj£»«^
That watch'd him for the tr»a*iir» ofiM*
And ere he could get «hett«-r of ■ treT*^
Nail him with his rich antler to th^^
Another stone to which mystic Tbtse,
attributed was the toad stone. suj>t>o«m *
\ found In the head of a toad, but in r«-%
: fossil tooth of a species of fish, Sh«fcJ
j was acquainted with the popular respect"*? 1
stone. In "As Ton Like It" he says: !
Swept are th«» uses of adversity
Which, like th- toa<l. ur!>- an/I vVnoran..
Wears yet a precious Jewel la hi* £7
Why are many of the old rings wfcfcj
worn by mediaeval bishops rudely faftw
i Because Pope Innocent 111 gave orrJei*^
! episcopal ring was to be of solid goi^ m
a precious stone on which nothing was to J.
Special stones were chosen for these rta»T,
ruby Indicating glory, the sapphire panj.
emerald tranquillity and happiness aad -,
simplicity." Some of the splendid decora^T
our forefathers had a modest enough orfga
example, when the mediaeval traveller «
pay tribute at the shrine of some s^
martyr, he bought, for a trifling «na, »w
"pilgrim's sign" made of lead and ptnaei.
his hat. From this sprang the rich "taj^
or hat ornament of gold or silver, whfct
deed, was finally made a mo«t f-splendejt
bellishment, being elaborately eruunelled j-*
with precious stones. The tendency of
has ever been to make personal ocaj^,
richer and richer. Thus the roush leathery
with which men were once content, by a-<
got itself studded with the previous meta^
even the poor insisted that thf ir studs sho^i
least be made of an alloy c-f brais arc! tb,Z
latten or laton, and not of an] baser 3trts.
charter granted by the Kin^ of England <^
In the fourteenth century to the Glrdlerrci
pany forbids the members to "garnish g
girdle of silk, wool. leather or tines, thnad,
any inferior metal than latten. copper, iroa
steel, and if any girdles were garnished n
lead, pewter or tin the same should be be
and the workmen punished for thrir false**
There is no end to the o«M informatics i
Mr. Smith has put icto his voluma. H«td»
how the dandy of the Renaissance s!it thei^
of his gloves so that his rings might be tht
ter displayed. He tells us how th« am
fashion in eighteenth, century England had*
fob pockets, in one of which he carried a us.
and in the other a false watch. He sbovi
the centuries passed without the jeweßente:
Ing the best way In which to handle the tea
Not until Cardinal Mazarin encouraged C*x
essary experiments did the Dutch .apitesa
rive at the secret of true "rose" cutting. &
over, this author not only assembles many
odds and ends relating to his subject, txt i
scribes the typical jewellery of th* Mat
countries In the historic periods. The cake
should find him a most helpful guide. But
does not need to be a collector in order to *.
this book. No one who cares for beautiful tfc
could fail to be interested in its well filled
TRUTH ASD FIC
j lloic Certain Xorclists Hare Waal tie 7»
Their Portraits.
1 From The Manchester Guardian.
The method of certain novelists seess ft)
to take a single facet of the character oJs:
' one they know, group round it other traits
; lected elsewhere, and then substantiate and
sonify the whole. They Rive it legs to sta=:
and a mouth to talk with; they put a ha: -
head an.l a cane in its hand, and t!ien
shall say that Harold Skim pole is Leigh Hr
Others, again, transfer the character boi
That was James Payn's practice, la one
those delightful volumes in which V a±ni3
into his literary workshop he tells us Cat
found most of his characters among bis «
quaintar.ee. The person represented, he assr
us. never recognizes his own portrait. But 3
his friends do, so sundry expedients to 7
people off the scent have to ft* adopted. I!:
original is tall. h-e is pictured as short; if is
as fair. Indeed. Payn recommends the tow
of a list of dramatis BSSSSSiafc. with tie I
names placed opposite the fictitious ones,
keep the novelist in mind as he works.
Sometimes, when the original is a public j
son. a writer of fiction will transfer him to
page without much disguise, and much to
gratification of the reader. Who la not chars
to meet, in Meredith, Leslie Stephen In :
"Egoist," Mrs. Norton in "Diana." La Sad
the "Tragic Comedians." and Robert Louis 5?
enson in "The Amazing Marriage"? Ah*
Daudet's practice in such cases sas ! »* 1
"It was a constant and growing t r.Jency."* .*
Saintsbury, speaking in a recent b<» I of I*=
"to drag in royal persons, and ■ •-• ■•• -ially "
persons in scandalous aspects. M^rr.y fciss
and other not too immaculate members &'
imperial entourage appeared in I* Nafcas'; r
characters of *Les P.ois en Exil' were as "
viously divers ill-starred and not always I
behaved refugees, from the King Bad Qtw*
Naples downward. Nutna Rcmmestas was* 1
betta almost without concealment: Uh s*
hero and heroine of 1/Ima ri "<ro fully &
tifled with an academic persor.cs.se of x '. "
generation and his wife."
"We have not for some time had a new »*
by Mine. Longard de Lonjrcar tettn ta*
as Dorothea Gerard. It will bo intensf"
therefore, to see what her just paMfotud '-
titution" is like, a story with a Russian tar-

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