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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, July 05, 1908, Image 44

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WOMAN S
Gotuns for Country House Wear
French Women Like the Filmiest Blouses, with White Skirts-
Latest Fancy in the " Trou-Trou."
Faris. June 24.
Tu*sor. toi'e and batiste are In order for the
hot days. Par country house wear the white linen
• ther long or short, U in favor. Usually
plain. It is worn with the prettiest, the filmiest
of blouses, made of lingerie tucks, embroidery and
lace. The thinner and more lacy these blouses
the easier they are to keep clean: soil seems not
stick to them. If folded lightly in a dampened
towel for a few then pressed with the
little iron that every one nowadays carries in her
trunk, they are beautifully renewed.
There are charming new summer scarves of a
washable mercerized cotton material like the
finest of crepe It comes In white and pale
shades practical and becoming to throw over the
shoulders for the stroll in the grounds after din
ner. To wear at the same time are the delicious,
the adorable "Charlottes" of lace, embroidery or
tulle. They are wonderfully becoming in the
twilight or the moonlight, and their weight does
not disturl' the coiffure that must be guarded for
the return to the drawing room.
A good deal of attention is given now to the
ribbon that is run into the cache-corset and Is
perfectly visible through the transparency of the
corsage. This j'retty fashion originated in Amer
ica. Kor several seasons it was frowned upon !
by the French woman, hut she finally adopted it
with ardor, and, as always when she borrows a
mode, the idea was enlarged upon. Two or three
months ago she would have only black ribbons
shining through tiie meshes of her lacey corsage;
this was to carry along the line of black at the
top of her stock. It was extremely fetching, and.
not appealing to the popular taste, it has not
been copied by the multitude. The latest fancy
in this line is to use for a "trou-trou" a string
of rather large gold or pearl beads fastened to a
narrow galon; the ends are finished with tags like
■MOOtrflaSß. "When seen through the thin blouse
or chemisette this "trou-trou" is always carefully
matched or made to harmonize with the belt.
cravat or prevailing color of. the costume.
LATEST HATS HUGE.
The milliners are surpassing themselves in the*
beauty and originality of the latest hats. In j
breadth they are simply huge, but the brims droop, :
lift or curve into distractingly becoming lines. One
of pale yellow Italian straw has a moderately high
crown and a flat, wide brim. Circling the crown,
covering its depth in front, is a broad velvet ribbon
of lovely old blue, which at the back is looped
softly and hangs In long, uneven ends, one touch
ing the waistline. Circling the crown at the base
over the velvet is a wreath of button roses in dif
ferent shades of red and a little fine foliage, the
foliage trailing lightly toward the back on each
side of the loops. A Lambelle hat is of white erin
with a border of pleated lace. Covering the Join
ing of the lace to the crown is a wreath of little
roses, broken at one side by an enormous chou of
old blue taffeta.
A "Charlotte" of white linen is huge and all
prickly with pleated frills, nearly hiding the face.
Set directly in front Is a great double bow of ex
tremely wide sky blue ribbon, pricked in the cen- ;
tre by a single red rose of great size. Another. ■
quit" as huge, is made of all-over Valenciennes |
lace: the frills surrounding the face are of pleated
lace and mousse! in*- de sole. It is trimmed with a
wreath of yellow roses. j
QuiU- the most fascinating he.ad coverings are
the new taffeta Capuchin hoods launched by one
... of the most famous houses of the Rue de la Paix.
One of nattier blue siik is shaped like an infant's
bonnet, fulled around a circle, the fulness being
arranged over fine reeds. It has a little cape, and
all the edges are trimmed with a narrow, thick
rue!.-!,: of black nvjusseline de soie; covering the
joining of the cape to the # head part there is a
much wider ruche. A second one is of electric
blue taffeta, also run on reeds, but quite plain, i
lacking frills or finish of any sort, but it flares en- >
chantinsly around the face, sunken far in its <
depths. It fastens under the chin in a large bow
of matching ribbon.
Another is of white liberty silk made from a
folded square in veritable Capuchin shape, leav
ing the point of the square to droop softly at the
I back. A double frill of four-inch lace falls over
the face and continues as a curtain about the neck.
A tiny ruche of white chiffon and a line of pink
button roses cover the edge of the lace. Made
of a great circle and shaped to fit the face on two
reeds, set two inches apart. Is one of pale rose
colored taffeta. From the inside falls a frill of
lace and at the top is a half wreath of r>ink roses.
A pleated frill of the silk forms a curtain at the
neck and it is tied by narrow rose ribbons.
COUNTESS GREFFULHE'S GOWN.
At a conference given by the artist Besnard on
"A Hundred Pastels of the Eighteenth Century"
the Countess Greffulbe. always not*d for her
graceful and artistic gowning, was conspicuously
elegant in a costume of soft black silk, built on
the simplest lines. The plain fourreau skirt was
beautifully draped and wrinkled by being drawn
high up in the back, the wrinkling folds forming
a corselet In front. It was bordered by a band of ;
jet embroidered lace. Covering the shoulders :
were draperies cunningly devised to form the- .
sleeves; over the tops of the arms the folds were j
held in place, by large jet embroidered buttons on
each side. This was all achieved by being built ,
on the figure. The space left by the material back j
and front was covered by a white lace chemisette ,
and the under sleeves were of tiny white lace ,
Another smart French countess was charmingly ';
r owned In cream silk voile, its close trailing skirt .
beautifully painted with brown ivy leaves. It was j
mounted high under a wrinkled belt of rose col- ,
.red silk, tied into a huge flat, many looped bow .
high at one side. The -mpi^eme^t was made o.
tiny 'rills of valendennes lace and the draperies ,
of the bodice formed the sleeves that ended under ;
the long gloves. Her wide hat, lifted high on j
one ride, was of pale brown straw. HIM I III* with ,
Quantities of white skeleton feathers and aigrettes.
Of exquisite simplicity was a gown of finely ,
pleated, dark gray mousseline de sole, hung over j
white mou^line de *oie. The short waisted bodice ,
was also pleated, and the joining of the skirt was
covered by a narrow folded Mx of dark gray ,
silk, fastened In th* back under a large flat ros
ette. The short sleeves were bordered with the
■**. headed by a narrow line of dull gray beads. ,
The emplacement and the sleeves were of fine .
,'. •. mousseline de pole that swathed the arms
la dote wrinkles. Near the edge of the skirt was ,
a wide band of the silk that rose higher at one ,
ride with a peplum effect indescribably graceful. .
This also was edged with the line of gray beads.
COSTUMES ON DRAG DAI. .
Or. drag day one saw gowns of floral chiffons, j
woven and painted by hand; embroidered voiles, ,
■trfped moussellne de soie, meteore crepes, shot
silk* and thick eilk linens. The softer materials
were in "sheathing" Dlrectoire costumes, the mus
lins and chiffons composed skirt* worn with coats
of the shot silk*. Many of these ellk coats fastened
on the bust -with a single button and sloped away
to the back Into the narrowest of tails that touched
the hers of the skirt. j
The «llk lining appeared In stunning tailored cos- j
tumes. Vastly admired was & figure enwrapping |
gown «t acorn green rr.eteore crepe. It was har- j
aionlously simple, with the simplicity of extreme ;
art. Skirt and corsage were draped in one, drag
sing the folds under the arms to the left side,
where they buttoned under large embroidered but
tons Gulrnpe and sleeve* seemed to show a nov
elty They were of a finely pleated cotton net ;
that promises to dethrone lace and the all-powerful
filet- The long sleeves were of the same material,
laid in the finest of pleat* running around the i
arms With this costume was worn the all-per- j
vading neck ruffle. The wide hat was of white j
straw, trimmed with an enormous cockade of green
ribbon; the parasCi was of green silk, with a wide
bonier «f ecru esnUroldered filet, and a raffia- handle
taj- nrq.ir-ji ■""* w~yz "*"*"" ti» ■*»•• aid j
stockings were green, and the wri^t bag was of
acorn green leather, with dull gold fittings.
The new bluish lavender mauve — a new shade
was noticeably smart with all white costumes, re
vealing itself in the hat, par«8ol and other acces
sories. A well known New York woman was
handsomely gowned In black Oriental satin, with
trimmings of black tulle over white. She wore a
large white hat draped with black, and surmounted
with a full high niching of white tuile. All the
accessories were white.
WOMEN OUT OF WORK
Seventy-fire Per Cent Less Employ
ment than for Years — Wages Held.
During these long hot days, when people who
have an abundance of nice clean clothes, nice
cold baths and nice chilly drinks, with the ice
clinking against the glass, find it so hard to keep
cool, an army of women with gaunt care staring
them in the face are tramping the blistering streets
in search of work.
•■S*venty-flve per cent more applications for em
ployment and 75 per cent less employment to give
them than at any time for years past." This is
the record at the Working Women's Protective
r . snc> , dartv nRE« FOR AFTERNOONS. FOR LONGCHAMPS.
painted crepe de Chine. net. incrusted with lace embroidered with belt.
H.., g£j|d f | owers . waistband of copper red silk.
Union, of No. 9 East Sth street, as given out by the
superintendent. Mrs. M. J. Kemp.
"Our unemployed women workers are very
brave," she said. "It is amazing how they tide
themselves over. They seldom mention the straits
to which they are reduced when they come here
to seek work or to get their wages collected for
them. They are very proud. They hate des
perately to ask for charity. But we are reason
ably sure that great numbers of them are living
on a piece of bread and a cup of tea or coffee a
day. They must keep a roof over their heads.
They must keep one decent dress to ask for work
In. There is nothing to do but starve. One often
hears of the hardhearted landlady. As a matter
of fact, many, many landladies have been most
kind to the girls who come here. When the girl
has had a room in her house for a good while, so
that she knows her. she has often let her stay on.
week after week, and even month after month,
waiting till she should get work and be able to
pay up.
•■Many women who have always done dressmak
ing are now beginning to go out housecleaning and
scrubbing floors. The work was slack through the
fall, it fell off entirely after New Year's. The wom
en have been living on their little savings, on the
help of friends as poor as themselves, or on credit
from their landladies, as I said. How they man
age to live and bow they keep so brave and cheer
ful about it all is a mystery to us. There is dis
tress among the actresses, among the chorus girls
chiefly, but also among actresses who have played
good parts for good salaries. Companies are not
going out on the road. The people are not spend
ing money for theatres. A number of actresses
have turned to book canvassing. It is dreadful
work; walking all day. meeting with constant re
buffs in trying to get Into the houses, and while it
is a business for which actresses might be imagined
particularly fitted, most of them have been unable
to make expenses at it. One who went into country
territory and took orders for toilet articles did bet
ter.
INSOLENCE OF EMPLOYERS.
With all this poverty, misery and unemploy
ment the women have to fight constantly , to get the
money due them after It Is earned. A widow with ]
two children, who lives with them both in one
room, had a place as examiner in a shirtwaist
house. She gave out the work, and examined It
when returned to determine Its perfection, and was
paid $10 a week. They discharged her the day be
fore Memorial Day. stating that they would have
no further need of her services. This was her
employer's right, but, as he discharged her In the
middle of the week, he refused to pay her anything
for that week. She protested that she was willing
to work the remainder of the week, and that the
law provided that a person hired by the week la
entitled to the whole week's wages when dis
charged during- the week. The employer replied
that the law made no difference; he had certain I
rules for hia establishment. He found out after- I
ward that the law came ahead of the rules of his
business, and on July 2 sent his check for »0 to the
union for the man. But since May 30 she had
had no work, and had been deprived of the use of
her money and put to endless worry and walking
to acne it. ■•;' C-'v..
The insolence of employers who refuse to pay
when they think they are dealing only with a pov
erty stricken woman 1b often amazing. An rj>
holster«r In Brooklyn had given a certain South
ern woman who came up to New York to earn
a living some samples of wall paper to match with
curtains. She matched the paper with material
and made the curtains, for which $13 was due, ac
cording to the price agreed upon. On February 19
he sent a boy to her for the curtains, without any
order. Bhe called him up by 'phone, and he a*
aur*4 b.«r that It **■ all rirht. AnA abe would t+-
NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY, JULY 5. 1908.
celve the check the next morning by mail. So she
let the curtains go. without any receipt or order
to show that they had been in her hands. She
went to him again and again, always to be put off
with some excuse or promise. Finally, when she
wrote him that If he did not pay she would be
obliged to have recourse to the law, he wrote her.
"Please don't threaten me with the law; you'll
make me have heart disease." He has paid, too,
after kc< ping the woman out of her money since
February.
An actress who has played in legitimate drama
was employed a few weeks ago for an ingenue
part in a summer theatre in New York at a sal
ary of $50 a week. She received her pay the first
Week, but not the second, and then the theatre
closed. She went to the union, which communi
cated with the man. He wrote In reply: "Miss
got no money because there was none to pay her.
I was unable to hold out. consequently she got
no moi cy."
"That is one of the coolest letters we ever got,"
j said the superintendent of the union. "He didn't
engage the actress on a stock basis. If he had
made money she would have had none of nls
profits, but because he didn't make money she is
to lose her wages."
This young woman had had no work for months
before she drew the lone $50 for one week's work.
A woman who had been fitter for one of the lead-
Ing stores in the city had a father over ninety
years old. He became so feeble and helpless that
she was obliged to give up her place In order to
live at home and care for him. Therefore she be
gan private dressmaking. Recently she brought
the union a claim of $34 37 against a rich woman
for work performed over a year ago. For some
months past she has had little work, and It meant
a great deal to her to get this money.
PARISIAN EXPRESSIONS OF THE POPULAR CLINGING GOWN.
"There was some of that work that she sat up
till Z and 3 o'clock in the morning to finish." said
the superintendent, "and she the only support of
an aged father! The records of the union are full
of coldblooded attempts to swindle the poorest and
most ill paid women out of pitiful sums of which
they Btood in dire need, not only for their own
food, but for that of others dependent on them.
There was the girl engaged as stenographer and
typewriter for $10 a week. Her employer praised
her work highly and was very kind and flattering.
Every wv: and then, however, he would hold out
Bows of liberty satin.
a part of her salary on some excuse or other. The
girl's mother was sick, and she needed the money
badly, but still she stood It until the mother died.
Then she wanted the money for funeral expenses.
It amounted by then to $55. which the employer
coolly refused to pay, assuring her that she had
no legal claim. He came to a different decision
when the union communicated with him. One man
kept a woman out of $23 more than two years, he
having disappeared in the mean time. When dis
covered he was living at a good hotel In New York,
dressing well and going to the opera in a carriage.
Nevertheless he had the assurance to plead pov
erty when an officer of the court appeared in his
room and <>mmM Uut man.*?;. Not JtU to twA
DECORATIONS FOR THE HAIR.
A child's comb. Way to adjust comb.
himself under arrest and about to be taken to Jail
did he produce the cash. Such cases are unceaalng.
• FAKE ADVERTISEMENTS.
The running of a business on a systematic basis
of robbing workingwomen of their wages, however.
Is much less common in this city than it was even
a few years ago. owing to systematic prosecutions
of the union. Foi instance, only a short time ago
advertisements for wome;- to do a certain species
of art work in their homes, with steady employ
ment after learning, were constant in the daily
papers. To the woman who answered they prom
ised steady work after she had learned and of
fered to teach her for *3. Many women paid their
last $3 to eet this employment, and some borrowed
the money. When they brought the work back
they "were invariably told that it was not done
like the sample and more work refused them.
These firms never did anything with the worthless
decorated china in which they pretended to dea..
They lived simply by the money they extracted
from the' women. The union pro?ecuted, compelled
repayment in two cases, and, these being fully re
ported, tha business wns broken up. Only one
complaint of this kind has come In in the last, three
years.
It used to be a re:;ular custom In the tiemaklng
trade to give out ties to be made at home, and
when they were brought in. to to?s them aside,
say they were no good, and refuse to pay a cent. Two
or three such cases were made a matter of court
record and the practice was stopped aa a system.
This sort of thin^ goe? on all the time, however,
in all sewing trades, particularly with white goods
given out to be done at home. Mrs. Kemp gives
one unfailing ru^ by which a woman may know
if the man intends to cheat her. If he says the
work Is not done right and refuses to show her the
mistake and let her make alterations, let her go
—The Lnd!e»' Flel'
straight to the union and her case will be taken
up. If the work Is not done right, any man who
intends to pay for it will not merely require, but
demand that It be altered. Feather curling is a
good trade. But a few years ago the men in the
business were getting all the common, unskilled
work of the trade done for nothing. They would
take on girls to learn the trade, promising them
employment after they had learned it. They would
let the girl work without a cent until she de
manded wages. Then they would turn her off and
get another greenhorn. This, too, has been broken
up as a system; but there are always new and
Ingenious schemes for defrauding the working
woman out of htr scanty wage.
The union, which was the first society In New
Tork for the protection of women In the industrial
world, was organized during the Civil War be
cause this very thing was going on broadcast.
Contractors for army clothing, themselves doubt
less very patriotic men deeply indignant at tha
wrongs of the colored slave, would give out the
clothes to sewing women and then refuse to pay
them.
SEASONAL. FEATURE OF WORK.
"The seasonal feature of all woit 1* growing
more and more." said Mrs. Kemp, who has been
with the onion more than twenty years. "Milli
nery used to be one ot, the pleasantest and best
paid trades for women. The milliner's work lasted
from September 1 to January 1 and from April 1
to July 1. and since she had no work during the
rest of the year she had high wages during the
time employed. To-day her season is scarcely half
of that, and the trade is so overcrowded that the
wage has dropped very low. All the sewing trades
are seasonal, and while the season Is on the women
have' to work themselves nearly to death. The late
hours at which dressmakers' girls have to go home
is against publfc morals. The Increasing special
ization of the work Is lowering the efficiency of
the worker, although It increases the output. There
Is scarcely a woman in the sewing trades who can
make a, whole dress. Th» waist fitters and Arftfer*
get (fa* JhUbMt »»r» «*• ow^*Urt &**** »t
KiEALM
If' The Oriental Store.
• Mr -
m Special Sale Monday
V and while they last
Dress Silks
Second. Floor
■»_ —
Figured Japanese Silks
at 35c per yard. Value 75c to $1.25 per yard.
19 Inch Colored Taffetas
(all colors) at 40c per yard. Value 85c •
REMNANTS 1-3 REGULAR PRICE.
A. A. VANTINeT* CO.,
r^Hw^v. between 18th & 19th Streets,
makine- of each part of the dress forms a trade in
"rtt Often a ?rl will sew for years and know
how to make nothing but sleeves.
-Great numbers of girls appear in Mg : -poo
tacular performances are obliged to *™7 n *r*
time to rehearsals without a cent of pay. Where
s the justice In that? The stage hands and
musician, will not give a single rehearsal without
regular pay. But worse than that Is the way Ir
responsible companies will take girl, out on th.
road and leave them stranded in some little place
far from home, without a cent to get back. The
employer finds his show is not paying, and simply
££« with what money there is in his pocket. I
think theatrical companies should be compelled to
assume some responsibility as to the character of
the companies in which they furnish * n ****™** 1 ?
Even women writers go to the union to get the
money coming to them at times There was a
countess for whom the union collected a large
amount. She was a Southern girl who had married
a really truly count. This, however, did not _ pre
vent her from having to earn ter living, which she
did in New York for a time by ™"ln#;. 6h %!2!
Particularly unfortunate, because she did a great
deal of work for fashion magazine}, and the latter
are chief offenders In this line. N>* ma * az!^»
come up also, are seen for a brief period on the
newsstands and then vanish, much like a fly-by
n!ght" theatrical company. They never van
without bills owing to writers. The airs which the
"editors" of these transient enterprises assume
toward the writers who submit materlal-often so
liclted-to them, or who ask for a check for that
already published, are amusingly Impudent. Often
writers fail even to get unpublished manuscripts
baCk- THE HELPLESS WOMAN.
"The most helpless woman in the world." said
Mrs Kemp, "is the woman who has been taken
care of all her life by a good husband, or a good
father or a good son. and for some reason or
other has to get out and earn her living in noddle
age or later. Such a woman is a pitiable object.
They drift In here and drift out. heaven knows
where. There is nothing they can do. nothing we
can find for them to do. I have seen so many of
them that If I were worth millions, every daugh
ter I had should be taught some trade or profes
sion, and givon at least a little experience in earn
ing money at It. No woman ever knows when
she will have to come to it. An Ignorant, poorly
paid little girl who went to work when she. was
fourteen is in better case than these women. She
knows how to earn the bread to put in her mouth
If she can find the work to do.
"The greatest handicap of women workers as a
whole? Marriage," said Mrs. Kemp. "The great
mass of the women In trades are young, Inexperi
enced girls. Now. it is not the boys in men's
trades who keep up the standards of those trades.
It Is the experienced, middle aged men. More
over every boy who goes to work knows absolutely
that' there Is nothing in life for him except what
he forces out of business. Every girl knows that
she may marry, which will change the whole
course of her life. If every boy who went to work
at fourteen or sixteen knew that during the fol
lowing ten years it was extremely possible that
his whole future would be completely changed sim
ply because he had a dimple in his chin or a pretty
ankle, or happened to come In contact with some
one who liked him and offered him a job for life— lt
would probably make a great difference in the
efficiency and progress of men In gainful occupa
tions. It makes the same difference with women.
It checks ambition: It is the great obstacle to
their organizing for their own protection. I have
no desire to say anything against marriage. I am
simply stating facts."
RIBBONS FOR THE HAIR.
Th« fashion of going without hats seems to have
produced the craze for ribbon decorations in the
hair. The head seems to require some finish when
the. hat is dispensed with, and a ribbon in harmony
with the costume gives just the right touch.
The latest device for adjusting the ribbon is a
comb, through which the ribbon may be threaded.
It may be bought in aimost any department store,
and if taken to the ribbon counter the attendants
there will adjust the ribbon, usually free of charge.
The child's ribbon comb shown in the illustration
consists of a shell band, with combs at the side to
hold it in place.
GLEAXIXGS.
A Russian actress who has an extremely delicate
sense of smell is said to add £15 a week to her in
come by smelling perfumes for an hour or two a
day. Much of Queen Alexandra's favorite scent,
violet, comes from Russia, and has to run the
gantlet of this young woman's nostrils, besides
those of four subordinate professional smellers, be
fore it is passed as correctly blended and ready for
her majesty's use.
A pretty story is tola of Princess I.oulse when
her husband, the Duke o* Argyle. then Marquis of
I.orne. was Governor General of Canada. She was
sketching one afternoon in the neighborhood of a
town where she was to re present with the Gov
ernor General at some great function In the after
noon. The day was hot and she became thirsty,
so she went to a nearby cottage and asked for a
drink of water. The mistress of the house was
ironing. "1 would gladly give you a drink." she
said, "but I have no water in the house and 1
haven't time to go to get it. for I'm Ironing a
dress for my daughter to wear this afternoon
when she goes to see the Queen's daughter '
"Then." said the Queen's daughter." if you will
jet me the water I will go on with the ironing '
Mrs. Durham, aged ninety-nine, of Offenham,
England, wai recently confirmed In her own cot
tage by the Bishop of Worcester. She aald she
had been so busy all her life that she had not had
time to be confirmed before.
"I wonder why it in that women wear yellow no
little nowadays?" said a young artist. "To me It
is, In certain shades, a charming color. It sug
gests the sunlight. I once saw a brown eyed,
brown haired woman tn a yellow frock, which had
in it. here and there, touches of brown and of gold,
and I thought her the loveliest thing I ever saw.
Of course, she had just the right complexion for It;
but no color looks well wi>rn with the wrong com
plexion.
"Yellow is the color of the dark haired woman.
no doubt. I saw last week a brunette, whose dark
head was erewned with a wide black hat. which
fe*4 it rimtt&f rtUow. p4«a* m4mAz»U«« «**
AT TRE POPPLAB. snot.
KM
BarH-b».
CMlllCMd,
McHUGH WBLLtyW f UBlWilUllB»e
CAPE COD HAMMOCKS .
COLONIAL HAGSTYLR GABMCES,
ready to sew wp «-nd Mas*
to fee Good O»d Styfe. »c yd. Isa «*.
MADAGASCAR & CO2BAGS
BUGS FOB. BUNGALOWS $♦*«.
Portfolio «f l^»o^ri»rm*i Ikvkmtmm.
WJBow mad Arts and Crafts Fiwltu— .
mailed for Me (aßgwed op tot f i.h—
JOSEPH P. McHUOH A CO.
Safcafattsbed lOT3.
9 W.OiSt OPPOSITE LE3BJLBT
VI AU'S tailC C3SETS
I *** W My Patented 3pnn#
m Bust Corset Joes away with alt p«<!<iina>
Made to measure. Call or send for booklet.
691. WEST 23D ST.. V T.
MME. BESSIE LAPAIX.
35 WEST 80TH ST..
«»ttr««n Fifth Ay«. and Bway. -V«»w T-/f%
HetdSSartTrTfor All Materials for !*«•'
Fancy Work. Especially Narrow ***?**
tar Pompadour Work and Fin!«« SUX.
-Worsteds. Bilks. Cottons, Canvm*
Ertablishrd 38 Tears.
around the crown and on the edge of the brim. It
was beautiful. women can wear yellow, tort,
"But light haired women can wear yellow, too,
A girl with hair of the palest gold, in an "«o<n»?
frock of pale yellow, with filmy whit. >"••"»•*
the bodice and some touches of black-that gM 4
a vision to delight the eye. But she's a vision
you don't often see. Why do blondes always thin*
they must dress In blue""
DAINTY SALADS
KOW POPULAR
CRISP LETTUCE AXD REAL
OLIVE OIL.
Chefs and Housewives Busily Devi*
ing New Mixtures of Fruits
and Refreshing Greens.
Now that high temperatures prevail and br!n#
with them a natural desire for nourishment tijat
shall harmonize with the season, the ingenious chef
and the busy housewife, both interested in tho
physical welfare of their charges, are planning tog
them surprises in new forms of gastronomic de
lights. Their problem Is to serve food which shall
nourish and yet not overheat the blood and Ml
tempt the palate in a season when the weatho*
often makes even the thought of food scmewha!
distastefuL Often on a warm day after th«
toil is over one finds It difficult to think pleas
antly of hot soup, a large portion of meat ot
some sort, with a rich sauce, and various vege»
tables, likewise hot. Some cool and refreshing foo*
is desired— something different is demanded. Hero
both the chef and the housewife will lbs solution
of this yearly problem in refreshing salads. &
number of suggestions for their concoction will bo)
found by a visit to the markets, which at thi«
season of the year are rich in C in from tlie
wondrous variety of vegetables and fruits tiiere
to be found.
Salad is a generic term for dishes where lett««
Is used In combination with meats, fowl, sea food,
fruit or nuts, wth a sauce OS mayonnaise or whal
Is termed plain French dressing: olive oil. viner**,
mustard, salt and pepper or paprika in a YarteU!
of fashions. Cucumbers, artichokes, cold P° tati >s7
and almost any -vegetable is ust-d in these fooa
composites; the art lies in their judicious t>!enonifj
and in the skill exercised by the culinary artist *
the dressing. Nay. that is the vital question, t-e
dressing. furthermore. the vital question of tnw
vital question Is to secure the best olive oil. -* 0U ??T
wives have sometimes been much discouraged »••
cause the family did not take kindly to the s 4 "*™"
and the cause of dissatisfaction has been invar Us*/,
traced to the poor quality of olive oil used, or. v
good, to negligence In handling it Perhaps It 808
been left exposed to the sun or uncorked or in »
warm, stuffy closet. To avoid these difficulties onar
the best olive oil should be purchased, imported v!u3
the sunny Mediterranean in glass. and '•'- saouxa
be kept in a cool, dark place in the original paw
age and used, as needed. l _ —
"There Is .i great deal of popular ir.isconeeptwa
about oil." said Ernest La Montagne. of r - *■£
Montague's Sons. ag?nts for the famous olive w
shipped to this country by Barton A tlUes ."v:
"Most people think that to be k<hh! it nvJ3t_£»
colorless and thin, which would In their «3
then make it a highly r«-nned product. w"^
oil Is not refined in the usual acnse -„,^*of
chemicals are used at all. but tSe P^USl^i
the presses Is clarified by a series of fl-» s2i
If too white In color or too thin, it ha* «'— »•-
bleached, and is consequently unwho^toa*. ,-^g
has been made from overripe fruit. _ M ,^|23
to rancidity. The B. 4. O. oil. which ha* &•« ££
in this market for over fifty ye« • by u f«.SJr 0 |
pared with the greatest care, from th# somco"
the olives to the decanting Into glaos ■^V-aoort
which. In our minds. is the only •a' ( V w * v to i=v
this sensitive product of Southern Franc*
"The district devoted to . :■■•> trws n^r.K U ,!j
where Barton & Ouestier have a large «££" g^
ment. extends some thirty or forty ■*■'"* trow •*
coast up the mountain aloe** to an «■»" tC»
1.300 to l,#n> feet. The best olives conl * i ftT Bar* *
higher regions an.! command the best pne • . n
ton St. Oueatler buy these Irrespective *>*?*{ t su
long as they get the host in the market, ■"^JiJ^H
way have maintained the standard " ' *xh« w ■*•*?
quality and uniformity of character.- « «artso»
picked fruit is brought down from i"i "* *'t»«
groves on the backs of mules to « *^n*ed tf '
first product of the presses. tnvarlar>iy « e]Mtl
them. Is called .Virgin oil. and ,J^ p ! o n«ffl?Js
fled and handled Is not only a £* !l ?._ il«l&« i*"£ • ■
for salad*, but h«D s?i«p^«-i hi»l^ £Su&J r Ml
ertlee, which are re£s«fi£w4 fcf »• . "".■ >l
mBmF

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