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WOM?l-rS. VA BIED ?NTER ESTS
Blur Reigns in Costume?
Worn at St. James
COURT gowns have ever ?been
of interest to the American
gentlewoman. Whether or
not she cherishes a reasonable ex?
pectation of ever wearing one of
these stately costumes, she likes to
imagine how she would look when
making her courtesy to British roy?
That court is one toward which
?he naturall..' casts longing eye*.
Not because '".e is a snob. Nor yet
?because ?v?e has the ambitions of the
vulgar climber; but because her na?
tive tongue is spoken at St. Jame?'?.
She know.. too?or she should know
?that few indeed are the Americans
who stand the remotest chance if
being presented to Spanish royalty
at Madrid. And fewer still to the
royalties of the Austria-Hungary
court at Vienna.
Queen's Color Governs Choice.
Queen Mary's well known fond?
ness for blue shades has governed
the color choice of presentation coa
tume of many a British and Ameri?
can woman. At this season's June
courts a number of gowns entirely
or partly in blue appeared.
Especially lovely was one in April
sky satin supplemented by a silver
cloth-lined white satin train. The
debutante who wore it had the rose
leaf complexion and the slender
figure of an English girl, but net
self-possessed manner as she court
?sied low before royalty stamped
her as an American.
Most exquisite ar ong the blue Pa
quin creations at the June courts
was the one worn by Mrs. Harvey
du Cros. of Wildcroft. Its train was
in taffeta of a Nattier blue shade,
having that indefinable delicate pink
sheen occasionally noticed on the
finer qualities of azure silk. Quaint
rochings of the taffeta and steel lace
edged the train, which was trimm-id
with rosettes in silk and lace, cen?
tred with steel tasscL. Near its end
was a spray of pink roses tied with
blue. The original and graceful way
in which this pale, pink satin-lined
train was suspended from the shoul?
ders, under a silver lace Medici col?
lar, gave peculiar cachet to this crea?
Rare Jewels Offset Gown.
New Zealand was charmingly rep
resented at a recent court by Mn
McCarthy Rcid- of ./ellington, wear
ins ner r?ir?-' psrure of pink topan,
pearls and diamonds. She was ,
?vivid picture in her beautiful cos
turne of white, fuchsia-red and silvei
Over its white satin skirt fell a tripl
tunic in white net, scallop edged, anr.
embroidered in white silk and tinj
milk-toned beads. Its train in fu
cheia and silver broch? was effective.
ly edged with taffeta of the rec
shade, and a huge silver-tissue-linec1
bow of the same silk was caugh*
against the draping near the floor
end of the train.
The use of silver in the presenta?
tion costume is a favorite decorative
scheme. But the metallic materials
in tissue, cloth or lace must be care?
fully handled, otherwise their effect
will be garish and impossible. Only
the really -jreat couturiers of the
Paquin class seem to understand
their possibilities. Some of these
leaders among designers make entire
trains in silver-colored fabrics, and,
while these undeniably are expen?
sive, they may be used again on
gowns other than those to be worn
in royal drawing rooms.
Sil?er Tissue for Bride.
It is scarcely a fortnight since a
New York girl's wedding gown was ,
beautified by the saine silver tissu* ,'
train which she had worn when pre?
sentad to Queen Mary.
Ao exceptional amount of silver
was combined with the white gown
which Miss Elizabeth Asquith. debu?
tante, wore at her recent presenta?
tion to her sovereigns. On the foot '
of the skirt in chiffon, pliss? soled j
(bun-pleated), were graduated bands
in silver embroidery. Silver grelot?
edged its white tulle tunic, while itt
exquisite train in white satin was sil?
The debutante's mother, Mrs. As- ?
quith. looked the typical dignified
English matron in a black and gold j
gown by Paquin. Its satin skirt,
bordered with small jet cabochons ;
and slightly caught up in front, had
long draperies in gold and black
e'auxc, black maline lac-veiled. Ca?
pucine chiffon lined its graceful train
<*>; black velours souple.
Mslront* Wear Blsrk.
Rather earlier in the present sea?
son an Ameri.u.i mother and d?bu?
tante daughter, the one wearing
black and the other white, were pre?
sented by Ambassador Page at St.
James's. In this instance the matron*?
gown was in black satin a;id its train
m silver lace, while the young girl's
ikii-t was in white charmeuse and her
train in stiver tissue.
Lovelie.t among the costumaa
Men at thir season's drawing rooma j
?pas the Paquin creation in which j
Mrs. Trehawke Herbert Kekcwich. j
o4 Peamore. made her courtesy to
Biff poclcete ???? port of tin timu
luted i m"- mi thi? frock of Hue
rat-iii'. ?.mur button? covered with
K'' material are tin' onlu trimming.
? lh inevitable touch ??> black It It
? this ??;-' ?i moire ti<i which fnllx over
ib.' veel iin'i ti'tt. which art cut in
on'. i black tailor with p<tt<>tt
- band add? In tl" effect of
Ihi tixlun ? -i \l. 'ii'l'liihi if Co.
royalty. Brilliants, mingling with
crystal paillettes and tubes, embroid?
ered a gown in white taffeta draped
with mahne lace. Supplementing this
fcharming ensemble was a train in.
beach-color.d satin and velvet bro?
ch?, self-shade chiffon-lined. The
?delicate pink tone of the train, com
?^ng against the white of the skirt,
vas ;.*-r more effective than a strong?
er contrast would have been. The
'design came from the hand3 of a per?
son who is first an artist and then a
How to Pack
Test of Well Filled Trunk
Is Safety of Break?
THE test of good packing should
be the safe arrival of break?
able objects and the decent
condition of articles of clothing. To
cram clothing into a trunk in such
disorder that every garment needs
the services of a tailor or a laun?
dress on reaching its destination is
not good packing.
Although the actual packing of a
trunk may be done in less than an
hour's time, if you know how, it is
well to start packing some days
before the date of the journey, if
possible. This gives time to include
many little things which add to the
comfort and pleasure which are
hard to think of in a hurry. With
the trunk at hand many articles can
be laid in it as they are thought of. j
Flat Spreailinf* Spate Saving.
Underwear shoulc? be spread as
flat as possible on the bottom of the
trunk. This spreading out of every?
thing is the secret of getting a great
deal in a small space, by preventing
a lot of small cracks of space which
would go to waste.
In a large trunk it pays to supple?
ment your trays with one or more
large pieces of pasteboard. Lay one
on top of the underwear. If any gar?
ment is needed before you have un?
packed, it can be easily and quickly
found without mussing everything
above it if you raise the upper layers
on the pasteboard.
Wash dresses should follow un
derwear. After these, or even be?
fore them, place the tailor suit and
such other articles of extra warm
clothing as can best stand possible
creasing*, coming on up from worst
to second best clothes, saving al?
ways the best clothes and any fin?
ery for the dress trays or, in lieu of
them, a flat box, in which they should
be packed with lavish use of tissue
paper in armholes and shoulders as
well as in the folds of the skirts.
In the corners put shoes, each in I
Thit attract I vt modd i? a ?killful combination of filci lace nud in Pott
toi black figured cotton t'repe. The whltt tiik rrnthed girdle ? rteni? <m<'i
i,, i/,, bu?tU draperu of the cotton crept ni the back. Whltt ?ilk "/?/?? th*
m t infill mi tl" hi" in,ill. unit with tin i,i" form? Iht bodice. Tht team?
are outlined with ?ilk end tht email bock cottar compoeei <?! it. stun
Hi',tIf , ?
its little bag; if you are not provided
with regular shoe bags use paper
bags or pieces of soft wrapping
Needed bottles of medicine, ink or
toilet water should be carried in the
hand baggage whenever possible. If
necessary to carry bottles in a trunk.
the plan I have found best is to
pack my bottles in the middle of the
tray If there is a hatbox at one
end of the tray, pack against the
side of that. Fasten corks securely,
wrap about with tissue paper and
stand bottles either 4in a rubber
shoe or on your hot water bottle.
Pack them solidly, so that no
p.mount of slamming about of your
trunk can upset them, and have so
much soft tissue paper about them
that if they should be broken the
fluid would be soaked up by paper
or soft underwear and have no
chance to damage anything else.
Plenty of paper and solid packing
are the points to secure success.
Sewing Mslerials in Trsv.
In the tray come also sewing ma- ,
terials. I keep an outfit only used '
en my travels, so it is always ready
Neckwear, handkerchiefs, belts
gloves and all furbelows should b<
put in one or more boxes suited tc
space you can spare for them in the
tray?the boxes being useful in your
bureau during your stay A folding
hatbox will save going into the
trunk for small articles on many oc?
casions. When your trunk is packed
do not fail to tack on the top a card
with your name and destination
plainly writt;n. Many a lost trunk
would nev^r have strayed if this lit?
tle precaution had been taken. If
your journey is an intricate one, it
may be well to add "via" the best
known point of change.
Do You Know?
A knife case made of white cotton
flannel will keep the knives bright
and prevent them from being
scratched. It may be hung on the
pantry door or any other convenient
place by means of loops or little
brass rings attached to the top. A,
Tin' iittlnctlon ut thii gowt of
orange taffeta lie? in H" draped <?'
'<11 at the ii'f /.. il" 01 ? r.tttnlc of
taffeta which form* pannier? nt the
xitic* h,ni a i,u<iti effect in the buck
i?i,i.i in reveal the m ?r apron effect
of m t nt tin front. Pink chiffon
form* the lining for the fact bodice
iriih h medium decollrttage, Stern
piece of flannel 26 inches wide and
14 inches long is a good size. Fold
up five or six inches from the bot?
tom?or whatever the length of th?
knife blade?and form the pockets by
making parallel rows of stitching,
far enough apart to allow the knife
blades to slip in and out readily.
9, U 9 9
Needles (size No. 8). whose eyes
have been dipped in bright colored
sealing wax. to form little heads on
them, will be found very convenient
tc pin work or patterns in sewing, as
they do not leave marks in silks as
pins do, and the bright colored heads
can be easily seen.
Cider Cup, "Ingenue" Sher?
bet, Graniti?All Deli?
cious and Cooling.
1*>HE wise and hospitable hostess
will see to it that some cool,
refreshing beverage, of sim?
ple or intricate mixing, is always
ready for impromptu use for the un?
expected arrival or informal gather?
ing on the lawn or veranda.
There are a whole assortment of
tempting drinks which have been
experimented with by a woman who
has travelled the world over and has
brought recipes from foreign lands,
as well as from our own South.
An Inspiring Sherry Klip.
Her directions for a sherry flip
'are quite worth while. Beat up one
egg thoroughly with a tablespoonfu'
of sugar; pour on this a wineglass of
sherry and mix aga*n. Fill up the
glass with shaved ice and milk a~d
shake well in a shaker. Strain inte
a champagne glass and grate a little
nutmeg over the top.
Nothing is more appetizing than
iced tea, or tea punch, as some call
it. For plain iced tea put a table
spoonful of Ceylon tea in a large
pitcher and pour over it a quart of
boiling water. Cover with a folded
napkin and let stand for a good ten
minutes. Strain and add sugar,
about one pound. The juice of lem?
ons or mint juice may be added, a
\ Tea Punch. Jf
To brew what is called tea tyanch'
the juice of six lemons and two or?
anges is added, this being served
with ice and Apollinaris.
Iced Coffee *?ith Whipped Cream.
Man*/ hostesses have iced coffee
ready to serve during the warm
days. This is nothing more than a
strong, cold, black coffee sweetened
and placed in a wine-cooler, with
plenty of crushed ice about it This
should be served in tall, slender.'
thin glasses, with a tablcspoonful of
whipped cream on top.
The Mint Julep ? .Favorite.
For a warm weather drink, espe?
cially for serving in the afternoon
or evening, the mii.c julep hol??s
high favor. A good old Kentucky
recipe is the following:
Put one-half teaspoonful of or?
ange bitters in a glass with several
tender mint leaves. Crush the mint
well in the bitters and to the mix?
ture add one sherry glass of rye
whiskey. Fill the glass with shaved
ice and put on the top a thin slice
of orange and a spray of the mint,
frosted in white sugar.
An Inumial Urink. the Cider Cup.
Cider cup, though not a commonly
served summer drink, is the special?
ty of a certain hostess? who haa
gained quite a reputation. A layer
of finely pounded ice is put into the
bottom of a large glass pitcher.
Then mix together one quart of
cider, two wineglasses of sherry and
one of brandy. Sweeten to taste
and pour over the ice. Add the
thinly cut rind of two lemons, one
sliced orange and one-half of a
crisp cucumber, shaved thin. Let
the ice melt a little, then add a glass
o? Curacoa and grate a little nutmeg
on the top before serving.
Pine apple lemonade is a change
from the conventional drink. First
pare a large, fresh pineapple, take
out the eyes and shred it into a bowl
and squeeze over it the juice of
three lemons. Boil a pound of sugar
in a pint of water, removing the
scum as it rises; pour this syrup
over the fruit and let stand for two
hours. When ready to use put a big
cube of ice into the punchbowl,
strain the mixture over it and add a
quart of charged water.
The "Ingenue" Sherbet.
A sherbet, which sounds a bit in?
tricate, though it is well worth the
trouble, has been called "Ingenue"
by its originator. To a pint of
strawberries or currant syrup, add
the juice of five oranges, three lem?
ons and a can of grated pineapple.
This is to be sweetened to taste,
: fdding cold water to get the proper
consistency and strength. This,
with some ice. is to be turned into a
punchbowl. Any pretty garnish,
strawberries, small bunches of red
currants or marischino cherries can
?i.raniti"?A Banana Mixture.
From Italy comes a recipe for
1 graniti, which calls for six ripe,
bananas pounded into a pulp and
mixed with four ounces of sugar,
the juice of two lemons, one pint of
water, a wineglass of rum and equal
amount of maraschino syrup. This
should be well frozen and served in
Most Popular Just Now Are
They with Raglan Cut
THE organdie blouse is the
blouse of the moment. It is
worn by every one every?
where. One seen to-day was very
simple, but had good lines. It was
' cut in raglan style, with short
sleeves and turn-back cuffs of the
organdie, piped with pale pink ba?
tiste. The "Paquin" collar of or?
gandie piped with pink batiste, and
revers of the same piped with the
batiste, was the sole elaboration,
and a narrow tie of the pink batiste
completed the waist, which may be
': had in varied pipings. Price, $5.
Again the Itaglan Shoulder.
A charming waist of maize color
cr?pe de Chine is made with raglan
shoulders and three-quarter sleeves
trimmed with net cuffs. The flat
collar is of the material, while the
vestee of net is fastened with white
covered buttons, so giving a con
? trasting effect. The striking feature
? of this blouse is the revers of the
material, which have two buttons o.i
the right with novelty buttons 0:1 the
other side. Although never but?
toned, they give a pretty effect to
the waist. This blouse may be ob
ained in all colors for **5.
lieorgette Crepe (?wd For Hlouies.
Georgette crepe is one of the mo*.t
popular materials for blouses this
season?and with reason?as it has
the cool, soft appearance of chiffon
aid yet it washes beautifully and
wears well. Sketched on this page
is a waist of this material. It is
made with drooping shoulders and
turn-back cuffs of white moire and
Venetian lace trimmed with small
moire buttons. Unusual is the band
of white moire, which stands upright
at the neck, finished with Venetian
lace, which trims the front of the
waist along with thirteen moire but?
Instead of having the usual band
' this waist has a waistcoat of the
moire which adds greatly to its
smartness. Such a model would be
suitable for an informal luncheon, 1
and may be had in white or flesh
color for $18 SO.
White Batiste Sports Blouse.
A blouse that would be particular?
ly good for sporting wear is shown I
here. It is made of white batiste,
with long sleeves finished with turn?
back cuffs of white piqu?. An ex?
cellent feature of this waist is the
pointed collar and waistcoat, which
are of white pique trimmed with
pearl buttons. In the back a half
belt of the piqu? is completed by a
pearl buckle. Price, $5.
A waist that would be very service?
able and also pretty is of crinkle
cr?pe de Chine, cut with the raglan
shoulder, which is nicely hem- |
material trimmed by a picot edge
On both sides of the front a rather
large pleat is placed, giving it a trig
appearance. This waist is fastened
in the direct front by four crocheted
buttons, and is a model which will
st-ind the test of the varying modes.
Price. $2 95.
Copy of French Blouse.
An excellent copy of a French
waist is being shown by a good
shop. It is of white cr?pe de Chine
I A BLOUSE OF GEORGETTE CREPE AND VENETIAN LACB
AT THE LEFT. THE SECOND MODEL. FOR SPORTS WEAR,
iIS A COMBINATION OF WHITE BATISTE AND PIQUE.
stitched. The Puritan collar and
stole effect is of white cr?pe de
Chine, with hand embroidered
Ftench dots to match the color of
; the waist. It may be had in cream,
' maize, flesh, white and navy blue
for $6 50.
For Tennis Wuur,
A good tennis blouse is of white
handkerchief linen, made with long
shoulder and turn-back cuff of the
' with a yoke of white organdie an 1
revers of the material opening over
it. The body of the blouse is of
cr?pe de Chine, which is shirred on to
the organdie yoke. This waist is
very good in the fact that it shows
the new set-in sleeves, which are one
of the modes which may be expected
in the autumn models. In the direct
front the waist is fastened by cov
| ?red buttons. Price, $6 75.
If You Are Shopping
ami can't Tiinl exactly what yon want, call The
Tribune Information Service, Bookman 3000,
and we will tell you V HERE TO GET IT. Or,
If You Are in a Hurry
and haven't time to write us, or if you don't want
to run around in the shops on these hot days,
r^rchin-g ?for any article of apparel, 'PHONE US,
and wc will help y??ti out.
THE TRIBUNE has just installed an INFOR?
MATION SERVICE, to save time and energy
for yon by TELLING YOU WHERE you can ?-ct
ANYTHING YOU NEED, whether it be a button,
a bathing -nit. a ?governess or a ra*_- carpet.
Tins INFORMATION SERVICE will be open
to the use of TRIBUNE readers irom 10 a. m. to
6 p. m. daily.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
and Sherlock Holmes
The first Serial in which Sherlock \ .olmes ever figured
will appear in the Sunday Magazine of The Tribune,
?beginning in September.
The story was completed by Sir Arthur just prior
to his present visit to this country.
For this serial we have paid the highest price per
word ever paid for a serial by any publication.
WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS
As ??-.-.y of the *rti?les on this page win be continued from day te Oay,
Tke Tr.'june, for the convenience of those who may wish to preserve tkm
p.ges, haw had made an original and unusual binder. This binder holds sixty
single newipaper pages, and will be sold at'cost, 30c., postage prepaid.
? i,?,?!.,l?e Tti? Tri .une wilt]
?Jtirtiish ihr n-rTien an. xdiiieeeea of the ?hops (rom which the article? ?Uecr ib?4
?in this page are taken.