Newspaper Page Text
WOMAN'S VABIED INTER?S FASHION FETE GOWNS j ,\ Very Creditable Showing Indeed Is This First One by New York Dressmakers?A Radical De? parture Made by Kurzman. f-p? HF. Fashion Fit?, long awaited by women, opened and oponed euc OOOOtolly Wednesday night at .r'.ton. America, deprived of teabteo suggestion* for the coming ?es? ? ?''rived this vcay of bring 1-c logathar creations by Ks own dressmsVers, *nd the showing of tholr Initial offerte was inspiring to those ?a-ho looh te New York as the ultimate creates Ml faahiou for this country. The rllin ioT lnt> *??? was originated bv a group of ftshionable 4\omen, in II "Vogue," the fashion nag? I BOfalCaOBtlj far-sighted to see the for American in thla matter, ~nd all wishing ave the suiTering attendant B! m F.urope. That The ' Me.-.-y and "Vogue" have Il B0lf?0pfOlBtod task denood both by the abundant M if men and women present at th* opening and the display of gowns r.ot only made but designed in Amer "Vogue" Enlists ?Creators, 10," when enlisting the fore asked them not to r..ake dresses suitable only for exhlbi i, but to show what they ? ay of designing and Ii , "sequence, last what New York to do, and how far it has I of that master of "Vogue" and * leo, among whom Bit? Mrs. F.rnest I'ayne Whitney, Mi's. 0. H. P. William K. Yander -. of collaborating eouturien was car A ' ? ,irked ?trenu | to judge upon to be admitted to ?or exclusion . ty, a too strict Parl?tes origin ! There was an at tion, and a desire to ? ? ght bo worn a o nat to wear I ? turnes worn | splayed original- i lence of thought, makers, others ; i. ry \ oiing in on creator. There ? i.u.ty displayed j ? '.>? graceful elabo- ' ". rrts of Parisian ' . y, than were : otifs auecoaafully car - i n ?i-ntcd on Stage. turnes were shown under the . poooiblo. At OBB was a velvet ghtly, yet softly, il ? o models made Grooofol and they were, each ? , her suitability which she was to enrry, tl ui emphasizing the important , etion of clothes-har velvot-covond steps I, and then circulated amotii- diaplojriog the ? only was great care used woman who wore each bIbo a delightful ? he roitfure, the tho telling little ac -? eorreet and gave the ? . .1 and originality to ".prising most of fash- I ? rh, were delighted 4vith j the er' "anee, which was ui the whole decidedly re 4\as little of the gar- ! ring which might so crept in, but there were, howevr - .,,.? withal pleasing i Kur/man PrcOCBtl B Striking Creation. ny innovations the models exhibited ? .any of the other < tobliahmoot limited ??.???.in of one model. It night "'he Louis I'bilippe" real confidence has been i.iuri- of thoir crca barka back to the 18t>0>. ngaioh this bol i 01 been worn be I Kurzman gowns were in ? of purity, and also 1 ite for the semi- > oh eh aaooy countries, by j r?a?on of the WOT, will bo bteeped e'er, the pppolar new ". bot the] ate much fuller ? I ten last They have the tight waist line, ?otne declare inevitable. nkir.g of all in this season j gowna are sleeveless ia the d?- j aoUotega displayed on the evening' Kowns, falling off. leaving an unbroken Uoe of throat and over-arm, but there - which many people men desirable than not having I . leiiiine a la Mode." Obo of their evening gowns, "La' M ? 1? Mode," of white faille and ; silver brocade, embodies all these ; 'points admirably. This gown was auctioned off last night by Mrs. Th**- , 1 dore Roosevelt. Jr.. the money thu* gained t* be donated to the relief fund, ? as are all the proceeds of the fete. The decolletage of this gown was marked [stiffly by a pleating of whit* faille | which made almost a straight line I across th* bosom and shouders. This dress was qunlnt and beautiful, and is perhaps the most decided style ex? hibited. Another vhlte faille evening dress by Kurzman, also brocaded in silver and with pleating marking the d?col letaup, was worn, by Miss Joan Sawyer in a little dance giver by her by way of entertainment during the evening. The ease with which all b?-r atepa were executed In this costume tirade It en? viable as a dance dre->. Similar to these was their gown whose only point of difference was that there was a , flat little collar about tho decolletage F?RQ0B?R80V ABB WBEBLOi CONTRIBUTED 77//.*-' RED vt. VBT AM) BED FOI F?R WA1 ISG SUIT. in place of the fiehu-likc draping < the others. A Bendel Model. Henri Bendel exhibited a curiour-1 beautiful and quaint costume in gra velvet This dress WSS fitted tight! over the bosom and In waist line, a of the tight bodice being embroidere in dull gold. The skirt was very w'di und at the bottom iiad an lSinch ban of kolinsky. The neck of this dre? was cut elliptical shape, reaching th base of the thront back and front an widening with a delightful air of sim plicity at the side?. Although many gowns were drapei arid showed the new, uneven train? and others were straight, after Gretl and moyen age tuition, the majont} showed a tendency to flare quite ai much as wiseacres predicted not ne long ago. A gown which was mosl unusual was displayed by Hickson. It was of white chiffon, and had a coat effect whose dipping wai.>t line was at the bust, and the skirt of this coat? like tunic stood out in exceptionally wide folds, outlined by sable Kolinsky. Like an Apache Frtwk. Fur ?e used as extensively as n mode of trimming as heretofore. Joseph displayed M a tall model a i most beautiful street ?ir?'-,??, which might be termed an Apache frock be cuuse of its devil-muy-care air and its SOME GOWNS SHOWN AT THE FASHION FETE. "/ 4 FEMME A LA MODE," of WETTE FAILLE, WOTIOVED OFF HY Hit*. THEODORE R008EVBLT, JR, l'oR ht REMAR, Tills CBBATJOR, WITH SLIGHT VARI? ATIONS, KURZMAV PRESENTED A8 IHR ACHIEVEMENT IS OIUGINAL FAEHI0K8. VBBITABLY THIS BLACK OABARDISE BY J08BPB SHORT BE CALLED AY APACBB ?ROCK, so BAUCt 18 IT is 01 TUBE 1 e?-treme smartness. Of black gabar? dine, it was striped in self-color velour. It bad the merest bit of fulness in 1 the bodice, which all bit M tightly to the figure. A band of beaver was just above the wa.?i line in front, and jus: below the waist line, although extend? ing farther to the sides, wo? another A Q?BBB MIGHT WELL tr/;.l/? THIS FLOWING EVENING QOWN or RI?or\DK AND 811 VER EMBROh DBRBD LACE. BY MOLLIE Oil AHA. fur band, the two giving the effect a girdle. The very high tight col was also of fur. Cuffs and the thr Inch banding at the bottom of the f skirt, which was longer at the I and back than in front, were of 1 beaver. The sleeves of the gown \vi of beige-colored broadcloth, thus c? trasting vividly with the dull hue the remainder of the gown. A walking suit by Firquharson Wheelock, while not differing greal from the early Paris offerings in lines, surely embodied their best fei ores. The coat was cut away, formii a foot-wide opening in front, whi< showed In front a curious heading ai gathering of the akiri The coat cc Jar, its cuffs and bottom, and the bo torn of the skirt, were all of fur go erons bandings of rich embellishmer The coloring of this costume, boweva was unique, for surely one seldom h? seen a combination as striking as thi of military red uncut velvet, arit bright red fox fur. The hat of th apparel is worthy of mention. It is < Scotch Glenpurry shape, and Is adorne at the side back with Scotch pheasar feathers. Mollie OTIara's Contribution. The evening gown which Moll; O'I?ara put forth is unusual and queen ly in outline. The curious overskir of silver brocade droops low in th' back and fall? over in a little ruffl' after it has been fastened to the loosi bodice of lace embroidered in silvei and rhinestones. The fulness of th. skirt and the straight transparency ol the deeply V'd bodice made a splendic contrast. In front the skirt is short? ened, and a double ruffle of underskirt silver and rhmestone embroidered, con? tributes an unusual delicacy, which save* the dress from an air of great heaviness which the extremely full and thick brocade of the skirt might have given. A clever bit of staging was aeeom plirhed in the presentation of a Thurn walking suit, in peacock green, narow WOioted, Wide skir'e.i ar..i lur bordered. The model walked languidly on the ?? stage, accompanied by that most grace j ful of all animals, the Russian wolf I hound. The stir which this little tab leau created was delightful, and fhowe appreciation of the great care that ha? been taken In dcvioing beauty for th approval of women who will wear do mestic instead of imported apparel thi year. "Night," by Maison Maurice and "Twilight." by Jacqueline, wen quite as mysterious and softly appeal ing as might be expected, and wen received with great applause. Cunning little models in jockey cos turnes, in sport apparel and even ir masquerade added a spice of variet?, to the evening's entertaiment and pre vented the unalloyed line of beautj from b'.rincr oi.e. Travsty and satir* were Introduced in a diabolically imag? inative ro ?turne whose very tight fitting brdice was po:?t-futurist in col? oring and design, mainly tan and dark uneven little spots. It was not a pan? nier perhaps one might term it an OVerakirt that round, stiffly wired elongation of the back bodice that stood out also horizontally from the waist line. The little hat was an em? phatic dare to the world to continue to wear little hats that have neither height, width, breadth nor length. It was noth'ng else than a derby, set on to of the he_d, to one side. The seri? ous mien of the model as she stepped gracefully upon the boards caused a gasp of dismay and a burst of unde? cided laughter from the audience. And This You Shall Wear. The models had be^n well trained. All day yesterday they attended the full dress rehearsal at the Kitr-Carl ton and practised their carriage, ad? mired each other's dresses and exam? ined at close quarters the tine points of the fashions which are to be those of the country at large during the coming seasons. These clothes these ninety girls wore were indicators not necessarily of what is worn to-day, but of what will be the mode in one or two months, or perhaps not until ipring. The plan is to create for ap? proaching styles, not to make dresses which are fashionable now. Just as, explained a member of "Vogue" staff, one were to go to Pans BOW for ideas for next leason'i eeataselag, Paris i? unavailable, so through "Vogue's ef? forts advance ?rnpre?.-ions can now be i gathered COSTUMES OF CLASSIC LINE The Simple Classic Lines of These Tunics of Grecian Origin Are Emphasized by Broad Band Trimmings and by Loose Low-Plac.J Girdles. MERELY a ehemUel A dorer, time* daily *?? that Inter? rupting remark heard by those 'American* who. despite warnings, Un (.?'?red iji Paris during the autumn in order to view the models for winter costumes. No one can fail to see in? stantly that the keynote of certain of the most successful creations, e-pe cially those for afternoon the chemise that familiar goi more or le.is rounded down at Cue neck and more or less cut out at the arm eyoo, but flttiog ly, over the shoulders, and falling in claaala folds to the aohleo. l -, el course, the chemise is of Greek origin, but having heretofore in-i-',',| upon being partly covered by a pott !Oat in? stead of partly conceal.??; I accredited it with gVOOO and booo! Loose Tunic of Hlack Moramlootte. All at once, like a lowly flower sud? denly made fashionable because 01 (lotted by a noted singer or artist, the chemise-cut gown, Irai worn, so 'tis -sid, b7 S grand dame ?? Deauville late last summer, was a-pr?f r?ted by a Prrislenne maker * of models. Thst couturier went in rather extenilvsly for chemise-tunics, snd her rivals were not ?low In following "not her ex? ample," de-lare those rivals, because several persons may simultaneous-. have an i.lea the pace set by the ?,-rande dame, wl o had the courage of her own conviction anent what ii beau? tiful in feminine garb That first chemise tunic, a black marquise**e, looely '-eiling a blue ulk girdled .-atin .-lip, happened to greatly become its wearer, but Its successor* chiefly are belted. F?V-d with Hlue Kihbon Inder Whit" Kmbmidery. Most charming of the white confec? tions is a gown whose p. ficoat =h_ped underdress of finest lace-veiled satin is all but covered by a chomloO of floss tmbroidcred marquisette. The upper garment, which, although cut to come high at the back of the neck, is opened as far as the waist at front, has edge* defined by a sapphire blue ribbon run under a two-inch wide strip of the white embroidery. From the waist the ribbon-run trimming extends as a sin? gle strip to tho lower edge of the chemise, which from front cen-re is a trifle sloped away tow at,1 the sides. The all-white embroidery, widening as it progresses up?, ir!, SOeemes a de? sign which spreads srl ally across the bodice portion, and frei .'der? runs to the edge of the cut-in-one caps for the arm-to. ?. 1: . pre ' ke thoee of eountleee oldtime ?. overlap the tops of tucked white net sleeves, outlined along their am from should? I with a two-inch wide self-rulfle. A straight ?y placed girdle of the white embroi . bordered along both sidas with the ribboi tun pattern, is drawn halfway to ?he bu-t above the waist line and half ??? the hips below it. ( ?insists Only of l'ellicoat and ( heini-e All that one of this season's most successful models among afternoon costumes consists of is a petticoat and a chemise. To bo sure, the petti.'oat is as long as any round cut indoor skirt and the chemise is h.gh at the back of the neck. Moreover, it is broadly belted. But the design of both garments is ss familiar to the pioneer aroman of the frontier forests as It is to the stur actre-.? of Broadway. Bread hands of ahite Ihtt lace bor? der the chemise cut upper section of an alluringly .simple afternoon costume in which any girl or very sil N young matron woul?) look well. I white satin ?kirt is petticoat-shape?!, uritrimmed and nearly covered hy '??? tunic of white net finely tueked noil sontally. The long Ano linee pioduced by thoee t irks aie aiveii' I ??? I 1 . broa?! binds .?r' :.'??? ?r .--ii.g the vhoul ders and extending down the sides .)f the figure to the t??p edge of the ci i - placed bsnd. At front these ban.is run straight, but at back, near the waist line, they ?point a trifle. Cut-in one ileevas MU 1 length. ? . toatally tachad ? rut to tile elbow an?! from there half ? arms. JI ? ;r;.;e.? oat ? its normal line the waist i? ei? braid, whoee fringi i ende, loop knot? ted on the left ? ?p, ;..li low a,-. that side ? ' ? NO REAL EXCUSE FOR A ROUGH SKIN VELOGEN Is so easy to get so pleas ant to use, so s .re to help, that it Is a wonder that any woman hau the slight? est trace of ro.ghness or harsh drynest In face or on hands. Tnere is no reason why ?he should. If your complexion It not at Its best It yoi.r h ir?!? are harsh airl rough ? apply VELOGEN at night, rubbing It In well. The pores absorb it and the skin speedily becomes soft and smooth and regains its delicate texture. You will enjoy its pleasant, tl-etlng odor and your ' complexion will welcome Its soothing, healing action. Cannot ?tain?cannot ' grow h jr. A?k ,o .r dr gglst?..'5c S tube.-Advt. If You Arc Shopping and can't find exactly wh.it you want, tall The Tribune Information Service, Reekman 3000, and we will tell you WHERE TO GET IT. Or. If You Arc in a Hurry and haven't time to write us, or if you don't want to run around in the shops, ?rar? king for any article of apparel, 'PHONE US, and we will help you out. THE TRIBUNE has just installed an INFOR? MATION SERVICE, to save time and enerrry for you by TELLING YOU WHERE you can ?et ANYTHING YOU NEED, whether it be a button, a bathing suit, a governess or a rag carpet. This INFORMATION SERVICE w.ll be open to the use of TRIBU1NE readers from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m. daily. WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS Aa many of the art'dee on thl? cage will De contln ed from day to day. The Tribune, for the convenience of those vho may wish to preserva th* pages, ha? had made an orig.nai and unus.-al Dindrr. Thl? omder hoid* slaty singi? newspaper pog** and will oe so d at cost. 30c. poctage ar*paid. .-On r-e?-lpt of a aelf a.: |f*0B* : ?'.,,.-I .:.. ? . ? UM will Paralen l?ia nan.es Bad addrtraat-a of |BC a J??..ill>?4 on thl* pa(* aro taken.