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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, July 14, 1918, Image 45

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HINDU COOKERY DOES NOT STOP WITH CURRIES
A Peaceful Lesson From India in Our
Favorite War Pastime
of Hooverizing
By CORA MOORE
IT WAS back in the piping days of peace
and plenty that we regarded food with
that degree of nonchalance which enabled
to take no thought for what we should
cat or what we should drink; nowadays it is
necessary to do considerable thinking about
food if w't-' would continue to eat and drink at
?11 So in the interests of thrift and economy
it Is even meet that we should journey abroad
from time to time to learn of other peoples'
?tfjys and means with foods.
Fortunately, it is possible to do this without
hivinj-, to brave submarines or to take any of
the other hazards incident to travel in war
time, for right here in New York are repre?
sentative eating places 1,1 almost every nation,
and it *s quite possible to dine ? la Fran?aise
to-night, be transported to Holland to-morrow,
to try the next evening the cooking of Spain,
ft Italy, of Bohemia, Turkey, Mexico, China
ag Japan, to have a New England dinner or
4? test the dishes of a Creole cook, each time
gpid its own surroundings.
Already we have had dinner in Russia via a
frliphtful little restaurant in the heart of the
(Hy, and a few blocks up from there we may
meet in India and dine as the Hindus do.
Not on ci;rry alone, despite the fact that cur?
ries seem to be about the only gastronomical
creation that the average person associates
xtith the East Indian cuisine. It is amazing
what things culinary they can teach us, how
many ways of cooking and serving they have
that we never appreciated which are directly
applicable to our own foods and should be at
once incorporated in our own system of do?
mestic economy.
It is similarly true that they have a number
of principles or precepts appertaining to foods
that might to good purpose be adopted by us.
For instance, they prize higher than any other
drink clear water, and the majority of Hindus
scorn taking tea or coffee with dinner. Then
it is against their religion to use animal fats
in cooking, so they substitute vegetable fats.
They have more ways of cooking and serving
eggs, rice and vegetables than we could even
imagine, for comparatively little meat is eaten
among: the Hindus and they have few worth
while fish. What meats and fish are partaken
of, however, are cleverly dealt with, the for?
mer usually cut into bits?their menus rarely,
if ever, include roasts?and the latter, the
fish, served not so often with sauces as they
are marinated or spicecL
The chef of the Hindu-place-of-dining-in
New-York answers quite adequately to the
descriptions of Hindu cooks in "Oriental
Tales" (fierce he appears with the destiny of
nations apparently weighing upon him), and
he explained among other interesting truths
thai cooking in India varies with caste, the
Anglo-Indian, for example, keeping to a much
moTe modified diet than the Hindu, who lives
chiefly on rice, peas, fruit, milk, wheat and
ghee, a sort of clarified butter.
"Every Hindu," he went on to say, "is capa?
ble of making a curry so delectable that you
would declare he could have received his in?
spiration for such a dish from no lesser a
source than Buddha himself, but," he added,
"the art of Hindu cookery does not stop with
curries?it begins there." And the few Hin?
dus who have drifted to New York and the
many English who, for one reason or another,
are here, all of whom have found their way up
to this Hindu restaurant, will answer "Ay,
ay!" or its equivalent, with loud acclaim, for
there are, besides the curries, strangely deli?
cious little cakes, preserves and other sweets,
spicy pickles and a variety of other good
things of which few of us over here have even
heard.
Two Indian Dinner Menus
The fierce looking chef salaamed the pleas?
ure it would be to contribute some of his
choicest recipes to our food economy campaign
and from the list he suggested these menua,
which, he said, were representative ones:
DINNER MENU
Narial Ka Soup
Goorda
Kohleaunon
Hahvae Zardak ,
Narial Ka Soup
Scrape the inside of two ripe cocoanuts very
fine and place in a saucepan with white stock
and a blade of mace and simmer for half an
hour. Strain through a fine sieve. Have
ready the beaten yolks of four eggs and a
little stock, with arrowroot to thicken the soup
Mix the latter to a smooth batter, add grad?
ually to the soup and let simmer very gently,
stimng all the time. Half a pint of rich
milk will be a satisfactory substitute for the
eggs. In India buffalo milk is used, but that
is not to be had in great plenty in New York,
' Goorda
Cut lambs' kidneys the broad way, skewei
them flat and lay in a marinade of oil, vinegar
sliced onions, chopped parsley and pepper
After an hour or two broil slowly over a clear
fire, basting with a little butter. Lay on ?
hot platter, put a little butter in centre 01
each, strew with minced parsley and serve a
once.
Kohleaunon
Mash together any vegetables, such as cab
bage, carrots, beans or broccoli (a hardy cau
liflower) and add the same amount of mashei
potatoes. Add pepper, salt, butter and enougi
milk or broth to form a thick paste and sti
over the fire till hot. Then mould and tun
out for the table.
Halwae ?Zardak
Peel a young pumpkin thin. Stick it full o
cloves and boil until it is half done; then cu
it into pieces, throw away the seeds, put int
a saucepan with more cloves, mace and cinna
mon tied in muslin, two lime peels, one orang
peel and juice, and sugar to sweeten and finis
cooking. Use as a filling for a tart.
The second menu suggested, even though i
consist of ancient Indian dishes, might we
have been planned by Mr. Hoover in 1918, s
Photo bu Paul Thompson
A little adventure In eating, via the subway. A safe return guaranteed.
chary is it of meat and wheat and sugar and
so lavish is it of rice, vegetables and fish. Al?
most we are moved to believe that our Food
Administrator must have been a Hindu in a
previous incarnation.
DINNER MENU
Bengal Stew
Kedgeree
Bclatec Mutter
Guava lee
Nauma a Bah. Kummier
Bengal Stew
One-half teacupful broth or gravy, one des?
sertspoon anchovy sauce, one of lime juice, one
large onion boiled to a mash, saltspoon red
pepper and twice as much black. Mix well
and pour over cold fowl cut up. Serve hot.
Kedgeree
One teacupful boiled rice mixed with any
cold fish. Add two beaten eggs, a little butter,
pepper and salt to suit the taste, stir over fire
till very hot and serve.
Tropical Dishes Should Appeal to
Those Who Summer in
New York City
Belatee Muttur
Mix a quart of shelled peas with two table
spoonsful of butter. Lay upon them in a deep
saucepan a large, choice lettuce cut in slices
and half a dozen small onions split in two,
also a sprig or two of mint. Add a wineglass
ful of water and place on fire. When the let?
tuce falls shake the saucepan till the peas are
uppermost. Add pepper and salt and a des?
sertspoonful of sugar. Stew till the peas are
tender. The fire for this should be brisk.
Guava Ice
Dissolve one-half pound of guava jelly with
as little water as possible, mix in a pint of
cream and freeze.
Nauma a Bah Kummier
Mix two cupsful of rye flour and one-half
cup of rice or cornstarch with a cup of milk,
add two tablespoonsful of ghee (butter), a
small piece of yeast cake and a dash of salt.
Work these ingredients well together and set
aside for two hours, then make into little
cakes, sprinkle with poppy and anise seeds
and bake.
When these two menus had been translated
into legible details our host kept on suggesting
marvellous mixtures of rice and herbs, mut?
ton and spices, vegetables and seasonings, all
familiar in themselves, but unheard of in these
combinations. Long as we have known the
cabbage and the lime we have never thought
of putting them together, but "Kobbe" trans?
lated reveals just this strange and delightful
companionship.
Try them out; they are as refreshing as find?
ing a brand new and delightful trait in a child?
hood friend.
Besides the fact that these recipes have a
strong conservation flavor it is interesting to
know what lies behind the strange names and
sounds seen and heard in an Indian restau?
rant. Unless one has a very adventurous
spirit it is a bit disconcerting to order a con?
fection, presumably, and get curried lamb!
Durnpake
Stuff a boned chicken with a forcemeat made
of boiled rice, fresh herbs, onions and hard
boiled eggs. Braise gently over a clear fire.
Kulleah Yekhanee
Slice a quantity of lean mutton very fine
and place in just enough water to cover. Add
four ounces of cloves and ginger, one table
spoonful of sugar, two of lime juice and a
little curry powder, with salt to taste. Stew
till tender.
Chingree Ka Cutlets
Mince the meat of a lobster and add to it
two ounces of butter which has been browned
with a tablespoonful of rice flour. Season with
salt, pepper and cayenne and add half a pint
of strong stock. Stir over the fire till hot.
Put in separate tablespoonsful on a platter
and when cold make into cutlet shapes, brush
with egg yolk, dip in crumbs and fry in clear
vegetable oil. Put on a dish with parsley and
serve with the following sauce: Beat the yolks
of two eggs in a wineglassful of vinegar.
Place in a stewpan over the fire, thicken with
butter rolled in flour. Stir constantly, not
allowing to boil, and when thick take off and
add tHfe juice of half a lime. This must not be
allowed to curdle, or if by any chance it docs,
strain through a fine sieve.
China Chilo
Mix with one pound of minced mutton one
cupful of green peas cooked, one lettuce and
one onion, chopped fine, saltspoon of pepper,
two of salt and two tablespoonsful waiter.
Simmer and serve with boiled rice.
Pursindah Sikhi
Cut into squares about a pound of any
cooked meat and mix with it one ounce salt,
juice of one lemon, two and one-half drops
coriander, ten drops cardamom, ten drops
cloves, two drams pepper, then add a cup of
sour milk. Serve very hot.
Dopeyozah
Put three ounces of butter and a dozen
cloves into a saucepan and in it fry an onion
cut into rings. Add a tablespoonful of curry
powder, stir and turn in a pound of rump
steak cut into small pieces, seeds of six car?
damoms, two bay leaves ; chopped) and salt.
Serve with a separate dish of rice.
Mint Chutney
Mix well one-half pound green mint leaves,
one ounce red chilis, one-fourth pound salt,
one-fourth pound raisins, one-half pound
brown sugar, one ounce garlic or onion. Pour
over it a full pint of boiling vinegar. Bottle
when cold.
Marchooba
Boil asparagus and chop small the heads
and tender parts of stalks together with a
boiled onion. Add salt and pepper and the
beaten yolk of an egg. Heat up and serve on
sippets of toasted bread with melted butter.
Kobbe
Boil a fine cabbage, press free from water
and cut into slices. Take a few green onions
previously boiled and chopped fine with pepper
and salt, and mix together with the cabbage in
a stewpan along with some butter. Stir well
together with a tablespoonful of stock and the
juice of a lime. Stew gently for a few min?
utes and serve hot.
Toffee
Mix one pound brown sugar, one-half pound
butter, one-fourth pound treacle (honey and
water, thin molasses or sugar and water), two
grated lime peels. Boil three-fourths of an
hour.
Hindu cooks make their own curry powder,
a mixture of cummin, cardamom and coriander
seeds, turmeric, chilis, black pepper, mustard
seed and pulleix leaves in certain exact pro?
portions, but as curry powder in perfection is
to be had ready made American cooks would
be unwise to attempt to make it.
Little or No Cooking?and That in the Fireless
By VIRGINIA CARTER LEE
FUEL conservation in summer cook?
ing means comfort as well as
economy, and with the aid of a
tireless cooker and by serving no cooked
desserts, or only those that require heat?
ing, such as junket and fruit charlotte,
this can easily be accomplished.
Get out the chafing dish and use it on
the breakfast table. Why limit its joys
to the Ripper and luncheon table? The
creamed egg3, fish hash and even the
fried hominy can be cooked in turn
while you are enjoying your fruit or
cereaL Remember, also, that on a tor?
rid morning in midsummer a cold cereal
with fruit, an appetizing vegetable sand?
wich made with war bread, and coffee,
either hot or iced, will make an ideal
summer breakfast with practically no
cooking at all.
Only three meat dinners (lamb ana
veal) are used during the week, with a
can of boned chicken (utilized for lunch?
eon and to give flavor to the baked,
stuffeii peppers planned for the evening
dinner on the same day).
The price of the chicken is included in
the grocery bill and does not come un?
der the meat purchases. Do not buy the
minced or devilled chicken; this may be
good for sandwiches, but it is not to be
recommended for dishes where the meat
is to be cut in cubes or sliced. Always
take the chicken from the tin at least
two hours before it is to be used, rinse
m cold water and chill on the ice after
it is thoroughly drained.
In making use of the tireless cooker
m the various recipes care should be
exercised to follow the rules and direc?
tions that accompany each individual
cooker. The general principle is about
the same in each case, but every cooker
has its own idiosyncrasies, and sometimes
these must be humored. Also do not
blame the cooker if tough beets, fowl
or meats are not cooked in the stipulated
time. Even with a coal range old hens
and tough vegetables will frequently
take twice as long as younger, fresher
articles. The cooker likewise will need
more time to render them tender.
Few persons like the regulation hot
soup course during the warm weather,
and a variety of canapes, vegetable cock?
tails and fruit pur?es will prove a wel?
come change. Fortunately in the two for?
mer almost any chilled vegetables rather
highly seasoned can be utilized, and in
the latter fresh, canned, stewed or
even dried fruits will answer. Study
various combinations and find how pop?
ular they will prove with the family. In
making fruit pur?es to serve as a first
course, remember that they are served
in the nature of appetizers. Keep the
natural acid of the fruit. Little or no
sugar should be used.
Supplies at the butcher's will include
three pounds and a half of shoulder veal
at 28 cents a pound, and two pounds of
stewing yearling lamb at 26 cents.
At the fish market one pound and a
half of pan fish at 16 cents a pound and
a two-and-a-half-pound sea bass at 22
cents a pound. (The fish used for Mon?
day's dinner is a left-over from the pre?
vious Sunday.)
Seven quarts of bulk milk at 10 cents
a quart, two quarter-pint bottles of
cream at 12 cents each, one pound and
a half of butter, for table use only, at
50 cents a pound; half a pound of oleo
at 16 cents, and two dozen eggs at 48
cents a dozen will be required to follow
the menus as planned, and the approxi?
mate marketing figures should run as
follows:
Butcher's bill. $1.50
Fish bill.79
Milk and cream.94
Butter and -oleo.91
Eggs .96
Groceries, including fruit and
vegetables. 6.90
$12.00
??e f'ixt\t-$& ?-tan&g ?uaro -Dtcr tl)t coal ?wppl?
// you can soothe the cook's feelings, please the Food and Fuel administra,
tors and have more appropriate and more healthful food for warm weather, why
not do it?
You can scorn cooked desserts almost entirely, using the fruits In their fresh*
ness; you can reduce roasting and baking to a minimum, whether it be for breads
or meats; and you can turn to the tireless cooker, nine times out of ten, when
cooking must be done.
A cool kitchen, a peaceful cook, a small butcher's bill, a full coal bin and the
sweet consciousness that you are saving coal somewhere when the gas stove is
cold?these are all good things to have. Let the tireless help you to get them.
a. _.. 3D.
TESTED RECIPES
Curried Fish With Rice
This recipe can be prepared from a
small quantity of left-over, cooked fish;
it is inexpensive. Flake the fish finely
and mix with a brown sauce, seasoned
to taste with curry powder. Arrange
alternate layers of the fish and cooked
rice in a buttered baking dish, with the
rice on top, brush over with beaten egg
and cook in the fireless cooker, using
two radiators, for about thirty-five min?
utes.
Veal in Caper Gravy ?and Cream
This dish is also cooked in the fire
less. Season three pounds of veal from
the shoulder with salt and paprika. Dis?
solve one tablespoonful of cornstarch
(scant) in one cupful of thick, sour
cream, add one tablespoonful of capers
and pour over the meat. Set the kettle
containing the meat in the cooker and
cook about three hours, using one
radiator.
Glac? Veal
This appetizing dish is prepared from
the cold veal left from the previous
night's dinner. Cut it in small pieces,
sprinkle with salt and paprika, and set
aside. Place in a saucepan one sliced
onion, stuck with whole cloves, and add
a piece of celery root (or a few dried
leaves), two large cupsful of cold water,
two tablespoonsful of chili sauce or cat?
sup and salt and paprika to taste. Sim?
mer for twenty minutes. Strain, stir in
one bouillon cube or half a teaspoonful
of beef extract, season to taste with salt
and paprika, and add one tablespoonful
and a half of gelatine, softened in four
tablespoonsful of cold water. Stir until
the gelatine is dissolved, and when it
begins to stiffen add the veal, a few
sprigs of parsley and about eight stuffed
olives, cut in halves. Set in the icebox
to chill and harden.
Vegetable Cocktails
Have the ingredients as cold as pos?
sible and chill the glasses in which they
are served. To serve four persons, peel
one large tomato, cut in cubes and add
half a cupful of diced cucumber, six
tiny minced onions, four chopped rad?
ishes and half a cupful of shredded,
crisp watercress. Toss together lightly,
season with salt and paprika and pour
over each cocktail the following mixt?
ure: Two tablespoonsful of vegetable
oil, one tablespoonful of \inegar, a pinch
of celery salt and a few drops of
Worcestershire sauce.
Blueberry Muffins
Mix together three cupsful of barley
or oat flour, five teaspoonsfu! of baking
powder, one teaspoonful of salt and one
tablespoonful of sugar. Mix in gradual?
ly one cupful of skim milk, one lightly
beaten egg, a scant quarter of a cupful
of cold water, one-quarter of a cupful
of corn syrup am! one cupful or more of
blueberries. Mix well, fill into ?.Teased
muffin pans, let staml for twenty min?
utes and bake in a moderate oven.
Gooseberry Fool
The name of this dish, like many
others, comes to us from the French.
Spell the word fool as it was originally,
foule, and it means "pressed." Cut the
tops and tails off of a generous quart of
gooseberries, put them into a jar with
four tablespoonsful <?f water an?! two of
brown sugar, set the jar in a vessel of
boiling water and let .simmer until the
fruit can be mashed. Pre.--.- through a
pur?e sieve and to every pint of the
pulp add sugar to taste, half a pint of
stiffly whipped cream and a quarter of a
pint of rich milk. Beat the mixture un?
til very light, and fill into tail, slender
glasses. Serve very cold.
Monday
BREAKFAST
Stewed Plums
Barley Mush
(cooked in the tin-less cookor)
Thin Kye Bread and Butter Rolls
Iced Coffee
LUNCHEON
Devilled Eggs Olives
Toast
Stewed Khubarb
DINNER
Vegetable Cocktails
Curried Fish and Rice
(in the fireless cooker)
Green Peas
Sliced Peaches
Tuesday
BREAKFAST
Moulded Rice with Blackberries
Watercress and Tomato Sandwiches
Coffee
LUNCHEON
Cottage Cheese and Green Pepper
Salad
Potato Scones
Red Raspberries
DINNER
Cucumber and Onion Canapes
(with thin corn bread)
Veal in Caper Gravy and Cream
Green Com Creamed Potatoes
Gooseberry Fool
Wednesday
BREAKFAST
Sliced Peaches
Fried Hominy Syrup
Coffee
LUNCHEON
Lettuce and Mayonnaise Sandwiches
Cocoa
Fruit Charlotte
DINNER
Vegetable Oyster Soup
Glac? Veal (left-over)
Hashed Browned Potatoes Spinach
Fruit Salad
Thursday
BREAKFAST
Black Caps
Corn Flakes
Fried Pan Fish Radishes
Toast Coffee
LUNCHEON
Cream of Creen Pea Soup
Cornmeal Croutons
Peach Whip Oatmeal Macaroons
DINNER
l'ur?e of Fruit in Sherbet Glasses
Spanish Omelet
Escalloped Potatoes String Beans
( in the fireless cooker)
Coffee Mousse
Friday
BREAKFAST
Stewed Rhubarb
Creamed Eggs I in the chafing dish)
Rye Bread Toast Radishes
Coffee
LUNCHEON
Stuffed Tomato Salad
Thin Corn Bread Iced Fruit Tea
Watermelon half)
DINNER
Halved Cantaloupe
Raked S-.'a Rass (in the fireless cooker)
Succotash Lyonnaise Potatoes
Fruit Jelly
Saturday
BREAKFAST
Sliced Peaches
Browned Fish Hash
(in the 'chafing dish)
Watercress Coffee
LUNCHEON
Cold Sliced Boned Chicken (canned)
Radishes
Barley and Wheat Bread
Rhubarb Marmalade
DINNER
Cream of Corn Soup
Baked Peppers
(Stuffed with Chicken Forcemeat)
Potato Balls Sliced Tomatoes
Maple Junket
Sunday!
BREAKFAST
Raspberries
Coddled Etrgg Radishes
Blueberry Muffin? Coffee
LUNCHEON or SUPPER
Vegetable Salad Russian Dressing
Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches
Ginger Ale (up Cookies
DINNER
Tom?*o and Green Pepper Canapes
Lamb Goulash en Casserole
(cookeo in the fireless cooker and
served in a casser?
Green Peas Riced Potatoes
Fruit Salad Bran Cookies

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