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by <3aiA Mardiall Cook^
home, may be left open, and when
open ahows a continuation of the
bright coral-colored revera to almost
the bottom of the akirt.
The crSpe de chine dreaa for late
winter and apring ia a Paria novelty.
Martial et Armand make a perfect
ly charming frock of chaudrone
crfipe de chine. To wear with it
they have a black coat lined with
thia copper colored ailk crepe.
A aketch of this dresa ia at the
lower right of the page. If yOu Wish
to make it yourself, or have it mada,
here ia a deacription of how it ia
constructed. The akirt ia made with
three accordion pleated flounces of
crepe de chine mounted on chiffon.
The plain portiona, which you see,
are panels afc the back, the sides and
the front, the pleated portions be?
ing between these panels. That is
to say, four plain panels and three
pleated ones form the skirt; the
pleated sectiona being laid in simple
one-side pleats while the plain sec
tions are folded double to preaerve
the same color tone as the pleat
ings, as well as to give the effect of
a turned-back flounce.
Should the panels not be made
double that portion of the dress,
being thinner than the pleated
pieces, would appear a little lighter
in color. Then, moreover, when
piece. The very blousing body is
drawn in at the waiatline by means
; of an etestic run through a casing.
! There is a girdle made of the crepe
| de chine and ornamented with an
I embroidery and braided ornaments
! of black toile cire. This material is
simply a highly glazed and supple
j quality of black oilcloth that looks
| almost exactly like patent kid.
One of the successful ideas of the
| season is the coat-dress and, as it is
a garment which gives exceptional
warmth, it fits in among the early
apring clothea for street wear, and
it may be worn out of doors with?
out an extra wrap. Martial et
Armand have a successful model of
this character, developed in black
cloth, trimmed with black toile cire
A Deep Yoke and
A Border as Well
TPHE trihiming takes the form of
a cut*out pattern in the cloth
with an underlay of the black oil?
cloth. This appliquS, like any other
trimmingfeatureof the moment, is
! placed acjross the back of the gar?
ment, wh$fe it forms a deep yoke
i on the c|pe as well as a border
I drapery at' the bottom. The dress
j itself becoimes one with this draped
cape Whe|;e the two join at the
shoulders'Jjand: in the front armhole
seam, which -is cut unusually large
to give the necessary free move?
ment to the cape sleeves.
At right?Martial et Arrnand's
dress of black cloth with cape cut as
part of the dress. The neiv trim
ming, toile cire, on the bottom of
the cape is simply glorificd black
Abovt at left?Pleated chemise dress 0/
black Georgette crepe, fine filet lace and
black chiffon velvet with the new gelatinc
Above at the right?Cheruit gown of black
satin brocaded in yellow and copper. red
The Coat Dr<
BLACK has featured conspic
uoosly in our winter clothes.
There were all sorts of smart
black hats that were made
without trimmings, depending for
their etyle entirely on the draping
of fabric. Per suits and dresses, es
peeially the latter, black velours was
one of the amarteat materials. Now
?ve are to have tailored dresses of
olack aerge for apring.
Madeleine et Madeleine, of Paris,
hare jast developed an unusually in?
teresting frock of black scrge
which ia of chemiae type. The back,
hawever, ia quite different from
these teen heretofore in etraight-line
ntedela. In the back alone there is
a Tery deep yoke coming to within
three or four inehet above the waist
Ime, and from this falls the lower
portion of the dress, which ia at
taehed to the yoke in pleats. Thc
frent of the bodiee ia long and
?treigbt, being ahaped like the bosom
of ? ihirt. This bosom portion ia
corered wtth sn embroadery of deep
blue e? black ehiffon, formed io as
2ss and Others
to round at the inner edge while re
maining square at the outer.
There is a deep rolling collar of
satin, which rolls in front almos't to
the waist. This leaves a neck too
open for street wear, so it is filled
in with cross pieces of black satin.
The sleeves are straight and nar
row from the shoulder to a distance
ofa few inehes above the elbow. On
the bottoms of the straight sleeves
are placed shaped flounces falling
almost to the wflst. From under
these flaring flouncea comes an in?
ner cuff of black satin.
Draped at the Sides
In Little Slings
HPHE apron drapery, so popular
with these designers, is used,it
being allowed to fall straight at thc
center of thc front, though draped at
the sides in little slings. The ends
of this apron are held together at
the back by a broad belt of the sergc
placed at a low waistllne. The belt
also aerves the purpoae of confming
the pleated portion which hangs
from the back yoke. Across the
i front of the dress goes a wide
draped girdle of satin to meet the
narrow cloth belt at either side of
? the back.
There are contrasts enough in
fashions to make it possible for
every woman to have just what
| pleases and becomes her and still
jfollow the prevailing mode. Quite
the opposite from the black frock
just described is a dress from
Cheruit made of Chinese brocade.
The material is black satin, shot with
yellow. The brocaded figures, being
j in yellow and copper red, give a
: color effect of rare beauty.
This dress is shown at the left
of to-day's page and I will tell
! you exactly how it is made, because
| I want this page to be of real aerv
; ice to women, not only in giving
\ the best news of fashions, but in ex
plaining plainly how the clothes are
made, so that the woman who wiahca
may make them heraclf. It ia in
princess form, with the under arm
seam slightly gathered for a space
of seven inehes, the gathers start
ing three inchea below the armhole
and extending to seven inehes below
the low waistline. In making thia
be very careful to diatribute the
gathera evenly ao that the' fullneaa
deleine ct Madeleine have just
icveloped this black serge frock
lor eariy spruig xocar
Jin both the front and back gores
, will be exactly the same.
I Vivid Coral Satin
;For the Revers
\J^T thc center front of the dress
the fullness ia again gathered
with a double line of shirring; this
ia to keep the front from drooping.
The dreas closes in the center with
two atraight revera lapping over
either side of the waiat front. These
revera, which are very large_fully
eight inehes in width and the full
length of the princesa dress?are
faced with a vivid coral satin. The
gown, when worn informally at
I you make them in this way you are
(following one of the latest dic
! tates of fashion, which is to riiake
; all flounces double to avoid tho
, hem, alwaya unsightly in a flounce,
; and to give a sort of pufTy fullneas,
i which is not possible in a single
j piece of the material. Each frill
! should be eleven inehes in depth.
Thc picture gives the effect of
jfour flounces, but what appeara to
|be the top one is the akirt of the
smock waist and it, too, has about
eleven inehes of basque or tail,
which is arranged exactly like the
flounces of tho skirt?that ia, in
pleats and plain aectiona. The upper
part of thia waist ia of interesting
cut, the ahort aleevea, yoke and the
tie at the front being cut in one
Among lhe most represen?
tative French suits is the
one at the right from
Martial et Armand. The
high collared vest is a
?'/r of the new crepe de chint
frocks so popular in Paris ktfi
a fiounced skirt made in pleated
vections alternating with narrovf