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BY SABA MARSHALL COOK
For Warm Days
OT weather clothes are more
H difficult to select than those
for any other season, A wom?
an can spend a great deal of
money for these and have little in
return. Summer clothes are always
more pictureque than those for the
winter and there consequently ?3
the temptation to buy them for that
reason without giving due consider?
ation a3 to how useful a particular
model will be.
A white dress is desirable in
the limited as well as the ample
wardrobe at this season of the year
and this is the summer when every
woman, if she cares for a white
frock at all, snould indulge her
taste, for it is some time since the
limpie white dress has been so
much the mode. After the gay
colors that we are accustomed to
seeing worn in summer there is
something startling about the plain
The decorative needlework of
our great-grandmothers' days has
been revived to adorn the new mid?
summer frock of white?and this
return to an oldtirne art is most
attractive. The true French woman
always has been adept at this sort
of work and very beautiful are the
white frocks elaborately orna?
mented with hand sewing that are
being sent to us from Paris.
Elaborate Embroidery On
Sheer White Organdie
AMONG the more elaborate white
frocks is the one at the upper
right of to-day's page. It shows
the use of old-fashioned eyelet em?
broidery on white organdie. Long
a?> this ornate type of needlework.
was used on thin fabrics such as
malls and batistes. At the present
time, when labor is too high priced
to warrant the expenditure of such
jlabprate hand sewing, it is unusual
0 u> see work of this type on a white
The dress is made in straight
line effect with a double apron
tunic, the upper oae entirely cov?
ered with the embroidery and both
edged with net bands outlined with
an eld-fashioned white cotton ball
trimming. Like many of the white
lingerie dresses a sash of brilliant
color is added.
At the left of this model ?3 an
unusual combination of black and
white which has just arrived from
Paris. The bodice is of black
taffeta and the full skirt of white
oigan die supporting rows of nar?
row black wool fringe.
Attractive use is made of net
footing on the frock of white chiffon
at the lower left of this page. It is
the simplest sort of dress that could
be imagined but one infinitely
suited to mid-summer weather
either for late afternoon or for in?
formal evening wear.
Eyelet embroidery done by hand
*&??ecn so frequently on the new?
est white organdie dresses that are
hist now being exploited for the
hot weather that it would indicate
a return to clothes showing more;
elaboration. It is a good many
7ears since such lovely bits of
needlework have appeared on lin?
gerie frocka. Organdie dresses had
t? depend more or less, during the
*??e when there was a dearth of
workers, upon the handling of the
erisp fabric itself placed in folds or
lathered in ruffles, or if the frock
v-'aa a bright colored one it might
kve ocjy a huge sash of the mJ?-l
??rial. We had begun to look upon 1
*k?se hand-adorned white dresses as
relegated to the past, something to
?e talked about in the history of
fashions but seldom seen. But this
summer witnesses their return in all
their ?idtime beauty.
eyelet Needlework And
Wide Irish Lace
J&ISH lace is lavishly ?sed on
white organdi "'ffr^sse:;. Tt is ap
Above (left to light)?French
frock with black taffeta bodice
and white organdie skirt trimmed
with rows of black wool fringe.
Model of white organdie with
eyelet embroider}) and lace.
Lower row (left to right)?
White chiffon dress trimmed with
net fooling. White organdie
frock with embroider}) in tapes'
try stitch. Dress showing a
combination of white voile and
brown ratine with brown errt
them extremely simple, as all ap?
plications of lace should be. A
model shown by a prominent Am?
erican dressmaker and which is of
the most elaborate type features a
great deal of eyelet embroidery on
white organdie combined with
quantities of wide Irish lace.
? The bodice is plain, with a band
of the lace going over the shoulder
and straight to the waistline at
j either side, the sleeves being formed
from the width of the lace. The
upper portion of the skirt, which is
straight and ?lightly gathered, is
vrhite organdie completely covered
with large embroidered eyelets.
These are not the round eyelets as?
sociated with the oldtime English
embroidery but are cut in the shape
of triangles. The skirt,' from th?
knees down, is made of the Irish
lace banding. It has a ribbon girdle
Quite an unusual and an elabo?
rate combination of Irish lace and
embroidery appears in a frock of
white net and pink chiffon which is
made in this way: There is a slip of
the pink chiffon with a wide panel
(down the entire length of the front
embroidered in nary blue chenille
and pink cotton threads. Pink mer?
cerized cotton as a thread with
which to embroider chiffon is de
"cidedly out of the ordinary and its
union with chenille is still more re?
markable. There is a full-skirted
overdress of the hand embroidered
net left open in the front to reveal
this extraordinary panel. There
are wide bands of the lace down
either side of the front of the dress.
It also is used to form the cuffs on
the short sleeves. This, of course
is a very elaborate type of summer
Unique effects have been obtained I
by uniting ratine and voile. You I
will find one such combination
sketched at the bottom of this page.
The underslip is of white voile en?
circled at intervals with row3 of
fil tir?. The overdress, which is
in the form of a coat also of voile,
is embroidered with brown mercer?
ized cotton and banded with brown
ratine. One of Paul Poiret's famous
sleeves is featured in this frock.
Should this be considered too ex?
treme a feature it might easily be
made with long flowing or short
Appear Once More
WITH the return of old-fashioned
needlework comes the revival of
other oldtime trimmings, and
among *h? tv?t?, plea^n?1 ?f the??
is a scalloped edging not unlike the
English embroidery used to trim
children's underclothes, only hand
done. It is seen on the finest of
lingerie frocks. One of to-day's
sketches shows this trimming in fine
white mull with square scallops.
Usually it makes its appearance at
the neck and sleeves only, although !
it sometimes edges the bottoms of
skirts just as the plain organdie
band did two summers ago.
Although dotted Swiss is not seen
in the imported summer frocks it
is a good old stand-by with Ameri?
can women. Perhaps one thing
that made it so popular in this
country was that it did not require
any sort of hand needlework as
decoration? and American women
either have not the time or the
liking that the French woman has
for spending long hours in sewing.
One Co-: <???? .-i- . l-r-c"-". ef tb '
turning out by machinery of this
type of dress ha? been a lack of
originality in it and an overcom
Swiss Muslin Frocks
In Youthful Designs
WflTH the revival of old-fashioned
stitches and old-fashioned lace?
the practical Swiss muslin frock
has come in for a certain share of
handwork and fortunately there has
been a departure from fussy ma?
chine-made ornamentation used to
cover up lack of originality or in?
genuity of design. The type of
hand sewing prominent on the Swiss
muslin dress just now is smocking.
Some of the new 6mocke<| Swiss
muslin frocks make their wearers
look like little girls, so very youth?
ful are they in design. A favorite
:~-'V"' r' r.-'-'-r; rjcS 5 arj59 i?
that employed in dresses for chil?
dren. A straight portion is smocked
to a square yoke, the sleeves, which
are short, being cut in one with
this yoke. The dress is brought in
to the waistline by means of sev?
eral rows of the smocking. The
neck and sleeves may be outlined
with a running stitch of the same
thread with which the smocking is
A coral colored muslin dotted in
white and smocked in white may
have a string belt of French blue
ribbon ending in a small bow with
long streamers and bows o? the rib?
bon on the sleeves. The woman at
all original in thinking up interest?
ing color combinations will find al
most unlimited scope in these mus
lins, as the variety of shades ii
V*hVh t'k-"- fr-iSr :- !<?>-'-?f
The Mode in Furs
THO is to blame for the
lack of diversity shown in
the styles of furs worn by
women? This is a question that
has been puzzling the America
designer and manufacturer for
Makers of fur garments have
shown themselves more than willing
to cope with a situation in fashions
| of which no one can deny the ex
I istence. They have done so by
?bringing out a great variety of
?styles in all kinds of fur garments
i and made of all available pelts that
are usable for such purposes. The
very best creative ability in this
country has gone into this work,
with the result that the showing of
furs at this season of the year is
one of the most splendid ever seen
The idea of those who deal in
furs was not to compote with Paris
but to meet a situation wThich was
'causing stagnation in the fur bus?
iness not from the standpoint of
sales but from a standpoint of art.
! One has only to recall a walk* Jaken
; along a fashionable thoroughiS^e
\ on any sunshiny cay last winter to'"
i visualize a steady stream of women
promenaders, each one wrapped in
a fur mantle, the chief character?
istics of which were that it wras nar?
row around the bottom and had a
huge enveloping collar.
The Straightline Coat
Returns to Favor
T^HE heads of the big firms mak?
ing fur garments have done ail
that they can to develop original?
ity in fur designing. It only re?
mains for the women of this coun?
try to show an equal amount of
originality and a reasonable amount
of judgment in buying.
Fortunately fewer wraps with?
out sleeves or with only a slight
apology for a sleeve are shown in
the new collections. Dolman ef?
fects were attractive, it must be
admitted, and perhaps their death
knell would not have been sounded
quite so soon had we shown more
; discrimination in choosing the time
[- and place to wear them. They are
I distinctly an afternoon and evening
j type of garment, and really not in?
tended for the woman who can af?
ford only one fur wrap and wants
it to be suitable for many occasions.
The practical straightline coat
with real sleeves is back. These
sleeves, as a rule, are tight and long.
There are any number of full
sleeves, too, but they are reserved
for their proper place?in the mora
dressy type of coat, which may have
the flaring silhouette.
The High Collar Supplants
The Wide Draped Effect
?yHE big draped collar is not
shown to any extent on the
practical daytime wrap. Replacing
it are all sorts of smart high col?
lars. This is one part of the fur
coat in which designers have shown
an unusual amount of ingenuity,
creating a remarkable number of
variations that will be found be?
coming as well as smart.
Little short, straight jackets to be
worn with fur skirts are of special
interest among the new things
which are distinctly of the luxury
type. These, of course, give the
appearance, when worn together as
jthey are intended to be, of a long
i fur wrap. The same idea was
?featured last season but the skirt
j was only partly made of fur, the
j top part, which was covered by the
! coat, being of cloth.
Short jackets are even suorte*
j this year, consequently the skirt
must be entirely of fur. A smart
effect is obtained by wearing a very
short straight cut squirrel jacket
with a plaid skirt of blue and gray
blending into the tones seen in th?
Too much cannot be said of the
originality shown in the method of,
combining skins, and the unusual
ways in which they are sewn
together to give varied effects. It
would seem that no point has been
neglected in an endeavor to pro*
? -?-.. *,