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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, July 23, 1922, Image 44

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^?S**?**m7?**M?4 OB W "-W^tf*^*-'
Clothes
BY SABA MARSHALL COOK
A World-wide Vogue
THERE is no abatement in the
tremendous interest shown
in sports clothes. Women of
all ages are selecting them
for general day-time wear practi?
cally to the exclusion of other types.
Even those who have long realized
the versatility of clothes of thia
sort never, in their most sanguine
moments, dreamed that they would
be adopted in such a world-wide
way.
Paris is competing with London
and New York in the making of the
smartest and most appealing styles
in sports clothes. When any type
of dress is exploited from all sides
it always means that if the models
are pretty and becoming a certain
number of women will wear them
with little ?sense of fitness. That is,
a so-called sports hat may be worn
with a gown to which it is entirely
unsuited. This is also true of shoes.
Plain Colored Sweaters
Patterned in High Relief
TS7E HAVE cut adrift from the old
standards which governed the
selection of footwear. The final
blow was dealt with the wholesale
adoption of patent leather for low
heeled walking shoes. With the
flooding of the market with many
excellent ideas in dress at one time
there always comes a misapplication
of the best of them.
As described in a previous article
both swesters and dresses are made
in two or more contrasting colors;
that is, of silk or wool in a plain
color patterned in high relief.
Among the prettiest of the sweat?
ers are those in lavender brocaded in
blue. I have just seen a new model
in these shades which closes down
the front like the very old-fashioned
coat sweater. It is long, coming al?
most to the knees, and has long
sleeves which flare at the bottom.
There is a high collar buttoning up
about the neck. The sweater itself
is lavender and around the bottom
and on the sleeves and the collar
are squares knitted in blue. It is
bloused by means of an clastic band
placed low on the inside.
White Flannel and Serge
With Vivid Embroideries
!A GREAT demand for any par
ticuar type of dress is a wonder?
ful inspiration to designers and
manufacturers and an incentive to
do their best in that particular line.
While there is the greatest diversity
of color in the sports costume, here
as everywhere else, a few colors be?
come the extreme of fashion. In the
plain shades brown, gray and white
are favorites, while in the brighter
hues there are unusual shades of
cerise, purple, yellow and red.
Emphasis is placed on yellow and
black used in unison.
A complete reaction from black in
day-time clothes is manifesting itself
in the other extreme, white, for
sportswear, particularly white with
color. And on this wave comes white
flannel as well as white serge of an
extremely soft and fine texture wo?
ven in part of camel's hair, which,
mixed with the wool, gives a marvel?
ous effect. The kasha serge of Ro
dier is of this character.
Jeanne Lanvin has been responsi?
ble largely for this movement of
white serge and flannel with trim?
mings of embroidery in high colors,
a trimming which she always has fa?
vored and in which she ever has ex
Celled. One of her best models .is in
white serge embroidered in a bril?
liant Chinese red with little flakes of
black as a relief.
Another interesting model ef white
ierge is of simple design with slim
panels on the bodice and on the skirt.
This frock is embroidered in red and
Upper row?Sporis costume consisting of a white serge dress trimmed with red and black leather and a red serge coat
with leather trimming. A similar costume featuring a white serge jacket trimmed with red cire braid and a dress to match.
Below them?A sports dress with a skirt of white crepe marocain and a pointed blouse of the same material in red. A
-_.___.*_ _?__? -?..*jL _. .._7/_._. li_j _ _.i?.*i. __,:_i
-,
black in a Jugo-Slav pattern. A
great many of Lanvin's embroideries
are in Russian and Jugo-Slav de?
signs. There are charming frocks
of white serge done with bead em?
broideries in high colors after Rus?
sian motifs. Very often such frocks
are in coat styles with the Russian
bodice crossing.
English women long have recog?
nized the desirability of flannel for
sports skirts, jackets and frocks, and
this season sees them adopted in a
larger way than ever before. Many
American women have felt that flan?
nel was not the most practical ma?
terial, although one of the best-look?
ing for clothes of this sort, as it waE
expensive in the long run in view ol
th-5 fact that one must possess t
great rr.csf flannels if one went ir
for them at all, as some of them ]
must necessarily be at the cleaners. |
Mexican Drawn Work
On a Silk Sporte Dresa
"C"EW women realize that the
Viyella flannels are absolutely
unshrinkable if properly laundered
and that they come in a large vari?
ety of styles and weights. It is pos?
sible to obtain the creamy white
shades in six different weights. Then
there are the stripes, the checks and
the Scotch tartan plaids, in addition
to the heavy or suiting weights in
both white and fancy checks, Smart
costumes consisting of a dress and
cape are developed from the ligftter
weight flannels in both thb v/TTite and
ivory shades and topped with hats
of a vivid hue.
Crepe de chine and crepe maro?
cain Btill are very important fab?
rics for the development of sports
clothes. Lanvin has made a beau?
tiful model in two shades of crepe
marocain. It is shown in the lower
left of to-day's sketch. The blouse
is of bright red, while the skirt la
cream white. The bodice is made
to slip on over the head and cgrt in
pointed scallops at the bottom. The
sleeves ace finished in like manner.
The girdle consists of a narrow strip !
of the white silk run through me?
dallion, slides of coral colored com?
position. The skirt has a pleated
front panel set in with hemstitch?
ing and Mexican drawn work?
types of trimming which are very
popular just now.
A White Costume Trimmed
With Red Cir? Braid
ANOTHER successful Lanvin
model is directly to the right of
the one just des-ssi^d. i?> also ii
developed in crepe marocain in two
colors, but in this instance yellow
and white are chosen, the blouse
being in citron yellow trimmed with
black and the skirt in pure white.
Jean Patou has been featuring
the three-piece sports suit in his
summer collection. At the upper
right of this page is shown a dress
and coat/which make up one oi
Patou's best models of this sort
White serge is the material usec
and the trimming is red cire braid
The lining of the jacket and tht
i foundation skirt are of red silk
j the blouse is of white crepe Georg
! ette.
Patou in many of his recent mod
! els has shown an extreme fondness
for red. He apparently never misses
: an opportunity to use this color
? with good effect. It is pleasingly
i exploited in the jacket and dress at
the upper left of to-day's sketch.
These two make up a costume de?
veloped in white and red serge. The
loose fitting jacket is of the red ma?
terial trimmed with black and red
leather, while the dress is of white
serge with leather trimming.
An interesting idea in connection
I with sports garments is the use oi
! large embroidered open-work mon*
ograms placed on the center of th<
blouse just beneath the pointed \
collar. This idea is also shown ii
knitted sports wear garments.
The Separate Jacl_e
THERE h.nrittfj,
Paris at the present ?a, fe,
the short separat. ?g^l
worn either overas
or contrasting akirt or over My^
of dress and for almost a*-?--, ?^
sion. In fact, the short Jacket h.
taken Par?s by ?tonn.
These coats, which are Oafa,,,
suit Jackets, are cut on p,^
straight lines and are of finger./
length with straight and \Z
sleeves. They may be worn ?ft y
without a belt It is n-?teworthytiat
they are replacing to a consider,^
extent the full-length coat and &
cape.
There is nothing tmiuraal In &
cut of these coats; but there it p^
novelty in the fabrics and trin__j_p
used in their making. AUthaBofo
silks and satins in quilted a_. y^
tered effert? which are haviagjj.^
tremendous vogue at the p^
time axe represented.
There Is Bulla, a bliitend &_?_
which, as its name implies, la .oo^
Again, there is Cl?oq_ee, a ftaj
| novelty. Certain definite jattes
| have specific names, auch ai Monk
| Cloquees, Bulla Mosseauxisi?Bw.
I gladine. The latter is a '?Mfeflfi
interesting printed, embroidert? __,
blistered silk crepe. In additions
coats of these clocki fabrics theresa
models of cloth and heavy ?iik crepe
which are usually embroidered _
Russian or Persian designs.
Fur and Embroidery
Vie as Trimmings
PRACTICALLY all these jaekeo,
whether of silk or cloth, m
black and feature fur Mmainj of
some sort. Rabbit is dyed to haiuti
squirrel, kolinsky and r?iBd?lk
This lightweight pelt is lavishly en
ployed in the form of staniliagn
lars, wide cuffs and deep bar?:
around the bottoms of many jack?*-.
Fur trimming is present even when
a model carries embroidery.
'
In the novelty class is a jacket??
India cashmere trimmed with ?so**
key fur about the neck and s-eeve?
and around the bottom. Monkey fe
is being taken up this season M er
thusiastically as it was last -ras-se
a time when we thought this fus?
ion had reached i .?? peak. The pre
diction that it would be an ephem?
eral fashion has proved false, "
it has outlasted many seasons awi?
still very much sought after. There
is almost no use that Is not being
made of this versatile for. It '?'
equally effective as a fringe or de??
band trimming.
Short Leather jackets
And Blistered Kids
JACKETS that serve for sport*
wear are evolved from kid <*
leather. One attractive model fro?
Lucien Lelong Is developed fw?
gray leather and trimmed with ??i
the red taking the form of a nsrw?
piping around the standing ?*
the cuffs, the pockets and the frost
closing.
Another sports jacket which ttit
designer made for a pron?M
French actress for wear at i F-*
miera was made of blistered ?*
very soft and supple, the bfi?tere?
effect being emphasized by ewbt?'
ery. Accompanying this jacket ^ j
a white dress, the skirt mad? ! I
doth and the waist of George
crepe. The sleeves of the dress ?*? ?
embroidered in a Romanian **>&**
were the small pockets on the s"*
Among novelties being u**"? *
trimmings on dull leather j****
are highly glazed leathers to *?*
blue and other bright hues. W
vivid colors are particularly ?^
tive upon backgrounds of a*?
colorings.
Perforated leather trimming?^
also in extensive use at the P1**^
time? This represents a wtu*V
the vogue of several years *^*j*!
leather trimmings apparently
at the height of their vopvi***
Large leather pocket motifs ?*??'
embroidered leather appear *?
trimming on jackets of cloth M
as on those made entirely of w4

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