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f v 4 frHE'SUfr, SUNDAY, JULY 12, 1896. " .----o . K
M ' PRIZES AT Till! SHOPS.
Wml Useful Remnants Now to Be
Wmft Had at Bargain Sales.
B FASHION'S NEWEST PHASES,
mm Woman's Opportunities as Pro
I jinr vldcd by the Dressmaker's Art.
jgftiL JUelUment or the Oak-gain Ilnnt at Thl
l( 'fS ton-t'orahlntlon or Material nail
'fgf'i Color la i Ftlusle noun That Make
fw " j Kmal ITneful-Woaderrui L'npablll-
fit " lis of tha A'.vv Hleeve aoil the Little
I y ,"olero ! -Numttatloaa lor Ittno-
? tab1 vatlas Old iovn-HlrW la Which
i AsK "Mk Art Worn Nowndaya-richua of
Xrftee nnd Other Material Another
,' rfi3 JTaaalonnble Aecory of Dre-Tbe
Si, Moat Popular Colora or Fnahlon New
t Uj Effect In llodlce--XoveIllr la Alue and
White Foularda-Oreps de Chine tha
fancy or tha Moment la Pnrls Some
Made-ap Aceeorle of Ure.
I Tha season of special sales is hero again and
the magical chnrm of veritable anil possible
bargains has once more cast Its txjtont spell
OTsr the lovers of shopping. Tbo Irresistible
1 'placard "Heduced" Is the magnet around
which tho women flutter llko hamming blrtli In
'a 'flower garden, and conflicting opinions as to
:, ; ill
f 3H limf
:I : ' -k
, S (he advisability of this or that purchase add
5 '.;f- untold interest to the search and prolong the
'( r-W t etruggle until the next woman expresses a de-
, 'Af ' aJra for the article In question and all doubts
t BV come to an end. It Is surprising how this chance
l &$; . of losing a bit of finery will directly decide In
"'- , Its favor, even though It bos been weighed In
$ :jfeL '", toe balanco and fohnd wanting.
fw ' Remnants have doubtful possibilities which
l tnak them fascinating to the average woman,
i-iX' --. nl 'Mn'0Q 'vors her weakness this season
tu-.?v Suite as much as it has done for some time,
IjFjl . tlnce several different materials and contrast-
JsMs? , tntr colon are used on one gown. The dress-
lK maker's art has reached an exceptionally high
WS' leve'. In general cut and style and unique and
nW -etretty combinations, and the woman with keen
'WLJimfctK'L-T'- Judgment and a good eye for color can readily
' 'Pi detect her opportunities at the bargain counters.
?pj Seductions were made earlier than usual this
)i SJ. ' summer, especially In made-up garments, and
' && I tlwt M a rule indicates a second decrease In
S . IVricat so the July sales bid fair to offer great
f ji'f f Inducement for the summer shopper.
1J ', 'tiiai of the most stylish and effective dresses
& display combinations of different materials on
f 1; ' tht waist and sleeves, and lace, silk, chiffon,
h 'i tf'A -- and velvet' are seen on one bodice, while the
:ii Aj' ' sew aleove in all its various phases has wonder-
i, f(j. ',ful capabilities as a means of using odd bits of
p , ''material. A olose sleevo of wrinkled lace, net,
' I vm' 'Sohlflon, or silk may have a short puff or butter-
I&K3' "fly drapery at the top, and the whole tendency
- T "'of faahion Just at present Is toward lest rather
jBVI ' A than xnore material in gowns. The skirt must
J "J ' ' " eventually lessen its dimensions to keep up n
'?&' J "toper proportion In outline, and so there Is every
Wi'-'.'jV, ,' i arflument in favor of the remnant this season.
'jj J 'The little bolero Jackets so recently rnvlvl
j.f , i. t toihlon add another to the many ways of
mm- I" 5Mr
Hal'- r" X&LiJfb'TLr
I V VV't2eJJ 'JXf
r jggJPk wi f& 4B I Jl vaflfffl'BsV
jH i utilising short lengths of lace, silk, and em-
MJRk , heoldtry. Prettr boleros for renovating an old
wmpl muslin gown are made of laee lined with
Kfi , batiste, or of tucked white muslin trimmed
LHa '., with frills of narrow lace. Others are of lawn,
EK with Insertions of lace and a frill of lace on the
HgHJ' edge. These are mode very short, the wide
r folded belt fills In the space below, and an al-
j HL neat entire new waist is the result, while
iBl . ' the amount of material required Is very small.
( B . Bolero are decidedly taking the place of the
, wide white satin revsrs which were to common
jl 1 If worn Id the early spring. There ore all
ill Mrt" ' oollr end epaulets, and entire waists
E 1 W of laoe, and every other conceivable kind of
II n 'abort Jacket effect with frills of chiffon on the
II "J ' '' Ono P"ltT holero In a very quaint shape
II, '( U mads yrf sonatas of fine white lac, each one
edged around with pert little frills of cream
colored lace edge. Lace Is gathered Into the
sleeves to fall over the hand and formed Into
bows for the neck and Jabots for the front of
the waist, and almost any length of ribbon can
be utilised In some of the various ways which
fashion bus lupplled,
Sashoa are worn again, and are made of wide
black satin ribbon, flowered ribbon, chiffon, or
plain silk, with a frill of Valenciennes lace all
around the edge. When muslin dresses aro
much wore sashes Invariably appear, and those
made of black or white chiffon with long frilled
ends are the dalntle.t of nil. They fasten with
an antique enamelled buckle at the side or in
tho middle of tho back, as you choose, and for
a flowered muslin gown they are perfection,
while others of plain glacA silk with a tiny
lace frill on tho edge nre enaally pretty for this
purpose. Narrow frills of changeable ribbon not
more than an Inch wide are used to trim the
skirls of some of tho pretty light summor
tlreoes, and plnked-out ruches of silk are seen
on others, lluchcs and puffings of chiffon nre
another feature of dress trimming, and narrow
double frills of chiffon cdRO many a lace collar,
epaulet, and jaunty Utile bolero. Fichus of
lace, net, chiffon, muslin, and silk are another
fashionable accessory of dress, and tha very
lateit novelty in this article of dress Is made of
flowered silk muslin, and worn over plain white
orgnndle or silk gowns. A new idea In
the corselet belt, which is such a special
point of fashion just at presenilis the use of
two or more colors, and bias folds, each In a dif
ferent shade f some color, make a very good
effect with tho dnrkest shade at the lower
edges. Ulaok satin belts appear on all sorts of
gowns, and foulards are chiefly made with a
corselet belt draped around tho waist in folds
which continue Into tho skirt, caoh one being
edged with narrow Valenciennes lnco. Another
feature of these gowns Is the transparent
wrinkled sleeves of lace or lawn with a short
puff of foulard at the top. The Swiss belt
of taffeta or satin ribbon Is another fancy, and
this Is boned at tha sides, back, and
front, where It is finished off with a narrow
plaiting of satin on either side of the fastening.
Black belts made of two-Inch satin ribbon and
brightened by a color, either green, white,
mauve, or yellow, are another design In cinc
tures for the finish to simple muslin gowns.
They are made to point a little In front and
fully nine Inches wide, and the ribbon seems to
be wound round and round the waist with the
touch of color on the edge for the last fold.
The most oooular colora of fashion are mauve,
apricot, green, and yellow, and tho loveliest
batiste dresses are made over apricot taffeta
silk. The linen Is Inserted with motifs ot Val
enciennes lace which add very muh to the
effect of color nnderneath. and a wide belt of
silk and a lace bolero over the color give the
latest style to the bodice. Yoke effects are still
very mucn used, but the newest fancy In
bodices is mode full. A donble box plait, wid
ening toward the lower edge, is arranged on
either side of the front, and extra fulness is
added, when It falls over the waist below, by a
frill ot narrow lace or chiffon or a plaiting of
narrow satin ribbon. This style of yoke can be
made very useful as a detachable affair to
transform a low-neck gown Into a high one.
Alternate rows of ribbon and loco insertion
make it very pretty with a frill of wide lace
on the edge, and chiffon with lace appllquo
designs and a plain chiffon frill is also effective
when used In this way. An economical and
easy way of producing a decoration of appllqu6
lace Is to cut the designs out of old lace when
tho net is worn out and useless and apply them
on new net chiffon or rllk, An old China or
, foulard silk, patterned nith white, can be ren
ovuted very nicely by making a bodlco of
plain China silk the color of the ground and
spotting it lavishly with these lace figures,
ilodlcea mode with folds crossing over surplice
fashion, leaving a little pointed V at tho nock
In front, which Is outlined with a Jabat of lace.
Is ono of tho many fancies for waist decoration;
or tho folds may be outlined with tiny frills of
lace and the V loft plain.
tilue and white foulards with two ruffles of
One white lawn Untitled with a hem of blue
lawn are one of th novelties, and tb bodice
displays a flchn of white lawn with the blue
edgvd runlet Vnd a belt of green velvet ribbon.
Other blue and while foulards are made with a
bodice of white embroidered moussellne de
sole, and a shirred piece ot silk with a narrow
beadlna on either side of the front, leaving a
little space between, is drawn around to form a
corselet effect, and is finished at tho waist line
with a narrow black satin belt.
First among the Illustrated gowns Is a blue.
gray muslin patterned with lilacs and made over
blue silk, with a flounce of lsoo over bluechtffon
at the botton. A bolero of whtte lawn embroid
ered in squares, each ono outlined with a tiny
lace frill, a bodlco of pale bluo silk, and a sash
of the same silk edged with lac aro the novel
features of this gown. The silk Is drapod nround
the waist In the form of a belt, which al;o has a
laco frill on he lower edge. Another model Is
In the French tailor-mndo style, carried out In
shepherd plaid alpaca de sole, and trimmed
with black velvet ribbon. A squaro chemisette
of lace over silk Hill In between the stole.llke
Crepe de chins Is the fancy of the moment in
Paris, and a white gown of this shows wide
bands of Cstn Uce Insertion for trimming and a
black satin belt with an old silver clasp. The
lare yoke Is shaped by cutting aay parts of
the pattern to make It fit. Another dress of
black silk canvas grenadine Is madoovcr mauve
silk, with flounces of black chiffon edged with
yellow lace ret on in waved lines around the
skirt. The vest Is of maue chiffon, and the
same lace-edged frills trim the nalst and form
the basque. A dainty conn of black and white
striped chlni silk has white chiffon sleeves and
bodice crossed by bands of black velvet ribbon.
The pinafore-shaped bodice of brown canvas,
finished on the edge with brown satin ribbon,
shows an under bodlco and sleeves ot cream
white crepe de chene. with epaulettes ot eanvaa
falllne over them. A rather novel bolero is
seen In the linen gown, with a vest of finely
tucked white linen edged with lace, a broad
collar of white guipure, and a Ide belt ot green,
bine, and white chine ribbon. Another bodies
of white batiste has a wide, folded belt of
cornflower blue satin, and shoulder straps and
bows of the same color. A gown of glace green
and white silk shows a pointed yoke of cream
lace, a bodice and sleeve puffs of white chiffon,
and a bolero of the silk like the tight portion of
the sleeves and skirt.
Among tho collars, vests, ruches, and various
other little make-up accessories of dress Is tho
brotelle-llke arrangement of ribbon so effective
over thin, simple gowns and ribbons seven, four,
and two inches wide are used In its ronxtrua
tion. The cape collar shown Is of black satin
oovered with Jetted black tulle, and white
guipure forms the second collar uround the
neck and trims the edge.
Tho Duchess of Marlborough has hod bar
miniature painted, showing simply a delicate
drapery of tulle around her shoulders and a
white bow In her hair, and It Issaoh an exquis
ite success that the Duke has ordered two more
similar In style, which are to cost 11.000. A
woman did the work at Blenheim.
Women will havo to organize a new crusade
against wrinkles and the leather-like, grow Ing-old-sort-ot-look
ot th skin If they pernlst In
following up all the open air pursuits which be
long to man's kingdom. 1'rosh air In all kinds
of weather may be conducive to health, but It ,
isverytrrlng to delicate skins Women who i
row and ride bicycles should substitute oatmenl
or boiled bread and milk for soap. The dry skin
Is especially sensitive to the effects of sun and I
air. and nerds all the precautions It Is im.slble
to find 10 keep it smooth and white. 1'otalnrH
boiled In milk are bald to be very effective In
whitening and softening the skin, and almond
meal should be on every toilet table.
A bicycle luncheon basket Is one of the
lutest arrangements for tha additional comfort
of the woman who rides. It Is fitted out with
a drinking cup, a wicker-covered flask, and all
the needed requirements, ana Is so small and
light that It can bu attached tofho handle bur.
The latest development of the now woman Is
ns a mariner. The colony of Victoria boasts of
one woman who is ambitious to become second
male on a foreign-going steamship. She rnado
a formal application for examination, which
was refused by the .Marina Hoard, but she Is not '
dlacournged, and Intends to try in England. ,
irojr.i.vs cyci.isu aitjki:. ,
The Lower Garment lu n Ntnte of Imper.
fectloa and M Moureo of Worry ritlll.
The bicycling mania, which has taken pos- I
session of the feminine world, has produced a
complete revolution lu the requirements of
dress, and suggestions, devices, and patents
galore are continually being offered to the
bicycling publlo as tbe one and only hyglenio
and proper method of dress. One wise authority
asserts that wool garments In some form or
other, especially In underwear, must be worn
as a precaution against taking cold, and that
two or more thin suits of wool ore much better
than one heavy suit, since they can be put on
and taken off, according to the temperature. A.
flannel shirt waist with a turn-down collar Ik
also preferred to one ot cotton with the regula
tion stiff high collar, and the Norfolk jacket,
with pockets mado with clovelr buttoned flaps
to prevent the contents from falling out. Is tbe
most practical style ot coat.
Dot, while women havo very little difficulty
In dressing thomselves sensibly and becomingly
above the waist, the lower garments are still In
a state ot Imperfection and a nuzzle to the dress
designers. The majority of women still object
to knickerbockers without the skirt, ana the
graceful hanging bicycle skirt Is a rare excep
tion. to the average woman on a wheel Is any
thing but a pleasing object. One very practical
suegrsllon favor theTurklsh troiifcrs. adjusted
with reference to all the requirements of the
wheel, as an Ideal cycling dress. It has become
erj evident that dual gartccnlt of any sort
irst"Nt not be made exactly lle any which have
been Invented for other purposes. They must
not bo too olunilnous or too scant, and the
happy medium with grace and servlrc combined
I hard to produce. The Turkish trout ers fall
from the waist In folds tike a skirt, finished nt
tbe ankle with a little frill, and made of wool
material for winter and alpaca for summer.
Whether a skirt Is worn or not, knicker
bockers aro a necessity ot bicycle dress, and
they should bo made and well fitted by u com
petent person who thoroughly understands the
art. If women could use more deliberation in
nrrangln: th skirt when they mount the wheel
it would not so generally ruin their whole ap-
! pcarance: but thendjnstmcnl bus to be done -o
rapidly that the fulness is not often equally dls-
, trlbutrd. and the effect It decidedly ugly and
ungraceful: which l all another argument In
favor of tho knlckirbockers as a complete dre;s.
CooIIqe, Refreahlns, nnd Wholesome Itev
erase to rtult All Taste.
Cooling, refreshing, and wholesome drinks
now claim the attention of every one. In hot
I weather, drinks made from fruits or their
juices In some form nre especially grateful and
also healthful. If not indulged In too freely.
The acid of lemon Juice or the sub-acid of fruit
juices not only allays the thirst but aWj cools
the blood. According to nn authority on the
subject, those drinks that possess little nugar
, and no salt are tho mrxt effectual in quenching
tbe thirst, such as the Juice of the lime, lemon,
grape fruit, orange, and cherry, combined with
a little water.
Cold tea and coffee, with a slice of lemon and ,
no sugar, are beverages that will salSfy thirst.
They are served In glasses, with plenty of
crushed Ice. Tho tea should not he very strong.
Here Is a good rule for making It: Put two ta
blespoonfuls of Young Hyson tea In the pat, and
when positive that tho water Is boiling In the
kettle pour two quarts over the tea and let it boll
a moment; then strain and add the Juice of
three lemous and two cups of sugar. Serve !
when cold w Ith Ice.
For iced coffee: To one pint of Ice cold milk
odd one pint of cream, whipped to a froth, ami
enough cold black coffee to give It the desired
strength and flavor. Sweeten to tnte and beat
all together for several minutes with a cream
whip. Serve In glosses half filled with cracked
ice. This Is a very acceptable drink for a sum
For a hot afternoon a favorite veranda bever
age Is cat frappo To prepare It pour ono
quart of boiling water on eight large table
spoonfuls of freshly ground coffee and let it In
fuse for about ten minutes. Then strain It off.
and for one quart of coffee add eight ounces of
sugar, one-half pint of cream, and the same '
amount ot warmed milk. Mix together and let
It stand until It Is cold. Then turn the mixture
into a packrd Ice-cream freezer and let It partly
freeze. Serve In cups or glasses, putting a
spoonful of very cold whipped cream In each
glass. A llttlo brandy may be stirred Into tho
mixture Jnst before i"er Ing, If desired,
Kur chocolate frapp., place over the fire In a
double b.iller three pints of rich milk: break
three-quarters of a pound of sweet chocolate
Into small pieces on a large earthen pie piate
! and keep It In the oven, having the doi- open,
until the chocolate Is melted. When the milk
' lulls gradually stir In the melted (hixnlate.
! Take It from the tiro and Mir often until the
mixture Is partly cool; then add onu pint of
I cream whipped to a still froth. When the cream
Is liiuten In, If the mixture Is not sweet enough,
add inor sugar. Flavor with vanlllaamln da-h
of brandv. Heat It with the cream whip ami
firn It Into n packed Icerrrnm fre ier nnd part
ly freeze. This Is also served In glasses
Another delirious Mitnmerurink is ieei cocoa.
Put in a saucepan xlxouurranf sugar nnd one
quarter of a pound of tulerired cocoa. Mir
Into tills one quart of water. Place the pan over
the fire and boil the mixture until It is like a
thick syrup; than reniuvu from the fire and stir
occasionally until It Is cool, when three table
spoonfuls of vanilla extract should be added.
This syrup may be kept In a cool place for sev.
eral weeks and used as needed. When required,
servo the cocoa lu glasses with shn est Ice and
An old-fashioned drink called cream nectar Is
enjoyed by man. 'I n make It beat two pounds
of granulated sugar with two ounces of lartarle
nrld. Mollen h level tahletoonlul of Hour
with tha fame amount of water and rub until
It l as smooth kn starch. Add another upoonful
I of water and blend with the acid a'nl xtigar be
fore niUIIng one quart of water ami the hites
1 ot two eggs beaten to a froth Flavor with any
I fruit syrups desired. Ilottle nnd cork tightly
1 and keep III a i not place. When the nvelar Is
I UKed, to a glass three-quarters full of Ice water
I nilil two tablcspnorifitlsof the mix. lire and one
I third of a teaspoonf Jl "f nicnrl'Onatuof soda,
which should be eunuch to make It e'ferve-ce.
The foam will remain, MJ that the neitar can be
And this drink may tempt soma one: Take
one lemon nnd peel It so that the thin rkln will
come off In a spiral Press out little of me
oil Into a glass; then put tho peel In the bottom
of the glass and pour over It two talilcspoonfuls
of unsweetened gill. Put In some chopped ice
and fill the glass up with ginger ale.
A simple hut healthful drink Is this: Pick
Catawba grapes from the stems nnd weigh two
pounds of them. Press the Juice from the fruit
and strain through a fine wire sieve. Add to the
Ji.lee three lablespoonfuls of granulated sugar
1 and one glass of wafer, nod stir on' II the sugar
I Is dissolved. Place Hie mixture where It will
become cold, nnd when it Is used put shaved Ice
i In the glass.
An e-iellent frnlt punch Is made of straw.
I berries, orange ard lemon Julre. tea nnd sugar.
Pour onu quart of boiling water met a heaping
talilespnotiful of good ten ami imer closily.
When the li a Is told strain II Into a large I owl
I or pitcher In which has been plaecil a lnrge
pteteof Ice. .Mid ono and one. half ups of
sugar, the J'lli'o from one orange uml thrni
1 lemiins, and one box of til in straw ht-trirs, cm-
I tlligthu larger berries Into lmhes. I 'lace on
I the Ice two bottles of Apolllnarls water, and
when they are cold pour tl.em over tho fruit
juices and tea and serve'at once.
Another fruit punch Is made thus: Mukn
syrup by boiling together ono pound of granu
lated sugar and one quart of water for ten min
utes. Take from the nre and add u few thuvltus
of very thlu lemon rind. When the syrup Is
cold, turn It Into n punch bowl or large pitcher,
and add the Julco from three large lemons and
the pulp of ono large Juicy orange. Then
add the pulp of two small pineapples, which
hate been ruaihed and rubbed through acoarse
slee. so that none of the fibrous portion gels
into the fluid. When required, put a large piece
of Ice luto tbe bowl, pour over the whole ono
bottle of ItnVcold Apuollluaris and add a small
wlneglsssfnl of Merasohlno. klrsch or sherry,
and you have a refreshing and delicious drink.
refreshing drink may be made from the
Juices ot fresh fruits, such as cherries, straw
berries, raspberries, and currants. Take one
quart of fruit and pour over It one pint of
water, and cook until the fruit becomes soft.
Then press tbe Juice nut, straining It through a
flannel Jelly bag. Sweeten to the taste with
dissolved sugar, and let it stand In the refriger
ator until cold. Serve in glasses with cracked
Ice, and dilute It with water or plain soda to
ult the taste. . . ...
For an egg milk punch, beat the yolks ot
three rggs until very light, add three teaspoon
fulsnf granulated sugar, and again beat hard.
Stir In two sherry glasses of brandy and one
glass of Jamaica rum. Adit one quart of rich
milk, nnd brat together with an egg beater.
Lastly add the beaten whites ot the eggs- Turn
Into glasses wit!: some i.liifefl I'M, stmts a nash
fi rjotmegover the top, nnd serte.
To make elder cup. Take one pint of elder,
and add to It a wlneolassful each of sherry and
brandy, part of tho cllmv rind of n lemon, half
a dozen thin slices of orange, ono slice of un
I peeled cucumber, nnd sugar to suit the taste.
'1 urn from one pitcher to nnother to mix well,
and add a largo piece of Ice and a dash of nut
meg if desired.
For a simple claret cup. I Joll together for fif
teen minutes one-quarter of a pound of granu
lated sugar and halt a pint of water. Slice two
lemons thin, take the syrup from th fire, and
put In the lemons Stand the mixture at one
side until cold and then add one cup of sherry
and one quart of rlaret. i-et it stand two hours,
and stir It frequently. When readv to serve
add a small bottle ot plain soda and plenty of
Another clnretcupls made of one quart of
clnret. one orange sliced, the Juice of one lemon,
one sherry glassful of rum. one slice of cucum
ber, and a few grapes cut Into baUes with the
seeds removed. Sweeten to the tastv and let it
stand three-quarters of an hour. Then pour it
Irtoa pitcher In nhich lias been placed a large
Jfecoof Ice. Add a sprig of mint, and Just be
ure cer Ing turn lu a pint bottle of champagne.
The Kugllsh hock cup recipe Is as follows:
Dissolve half a dozen lumps of sugar In atea
cupful of boiling water and add two .table
sjioonfuls of good brandy and some thin
I shavings of the rind of a 'emon. Cover and let
I the mixture stand for twenty minutes. Put the
mixture Into a large lug nnd add a pint bottle
of dry champagne and a quart bottle of hock.
Add it sprig of verbena and a small glassful of
sherri Pour this mixture from one Jug Into
another half n dnren times. Mraln and ice.
Adil a tumblerful of soda water or any other
effervescing water ami sere.
The following makes a Blue Orass teddy:
Take one lump of cut sugar and rub ft over the
peel of a lemon Then put It tn a clas and pour
own It a spoonful of water, and let the sngar
. dssiTc. Pnt inn small spilgof mint and half
fill the glass with cracked ice. Then add good
whiskey and mix well.
niXT.s foil run iiovskuolt).
There n several rules n hlch one should keep
i in mind with regard to bathing t the seashore,
i A strong and vigorous person may bathe early
In the morning before breakfast, but young
I children and those not strong should not bathe
until more than two hours after eating. Avoid
bathing when tbo body Is cooling after per
spiration. Lease the water Immediately if tbe
slightest feeling ot chilliness Is observed. Per-M.uswho-e
hands and feet base a feeling of
I numbness ami cold after ttclng in the water a
short time should not batbe In the open air. Do
nut bathe when tired.
To save the fingers when cleaning flsh cut off
the litis with a pair of scissorr.
Figs that hare grown dry may be freshened by
' putting them up on a plate and kteplng them in
a stenmer until moist and plump. A dessert can
i lie made by dredging lgs with powdered sugar
1 and serving salted ptanuts with them.
1 Head rests or cushions for piazza chairs are
! co vi red with cream linens and grass cloths.
They are embroidered In wash silks, and when
soiled may be washed and made to look fresh
nnd new. The cushion Is made in the share of
a half circle, but the cover is straight and cut
seven Inches longer than the cushion, the ends
being finished with a half-Inch, hemstitched
iMirder, The cover is drawn up at each end,
leaving a three-Inch frill, and Is lied with linen
1 cords and tassels, by which tha cushion is hung
to the 'chair. A very datnlv cover is made of
deep cream-colored linen, embroidered across
one end with a hop vine and flowers tn delicate
greens. A grass linen cover has a graceiul
spray of red popples worked across the top.
, If jou are obliged to have your hands In
strong koapy water In washing dishes or doing
other household duties, a little vinegar rubbed
upon Uiem when taken from the water will im-
I prove them as well as help to keep the skin white.
' A whisk broom, made with the edge slanting
I so that one end Is longer than theother. Is much
better than one with a straight edge for brush
I lug the dust out of the corners of the room and
I from the edge of the carpets. This broom Is
particularly adapted to brushing down stair
To make a good fly paper, boll together equal
parts by weight of glue and molasies. With an
old knife spread the milium while hot over
lieav brown paper. Place a piece of this paper
I 111 every room in the house. It will capture
every fly in the room within the day.
i For removing grease stains on matting try
welting the H)t w ith alcohol and then ruoMng
with white Castile boap. Let the soap dry and
I then wash It otf with warm salt water.
Twigs nnd small branches may be made to
I look like coral and to bo very ornamental. The
, process will help toamuso the young people on
a rainy afternoon. Melt together four parts of
, ) cllow rosin nnd one part of vermilion; dip the
twigs Into It, covering every part, and then lei
themdr) without touching ciu'h other. A bunch
of coral fastened to the corner of a pMurft
Ir.i me. another branch coming from behind a
picture, and a bunch tied with a ribbon bow
upon a scrap bu'kct are all decorative.
If the refrigerator Is too small to hold a wa-
1 tertnelon which you wish to keep cold, roll the
melon in wet cloths and place It In the sun. The
uruiess of evaporation will cool the melon.
Wet tho cloth on the outside as It becomes dry.
I During damp weather In tho summer coffee
often loses Its flavor and strength. An old
i housekeeper says that If tho quantity of cnlfeo
, lurries neriud for breakfast he put into a bowl,
i com'IuiI clo-e , ai.d put into the .vanning oven
1 ovi r night the llav oi of the coffee will be much
Ono having n fancy for preserving naturnl
fluvirs inly do so by dipping tliein Into melted
l.tr.illl'i. The ml. turn should Ik- only warm
enough to remain fluid. Hold the flowers by
the stems, which should be (re from nil except
tlm ntltlral moisture, dip them In the fluid,
1 give them a quick turn to remove the nlr cells,
and place them lu a glass until tbe coating be
1 An Amrrlenn Woman' Height Itelort,
I Tho other rtnj It was my good fortune, says a
' w rller In the Htntltuomtin, to lunch In the com
pany of suv eral poets of fame and repute. There
was present at this delectable and memorable
banquet one of the most charming and witty
American women that the world has known.
The t&eU were recording various good stories,
AmeThe Perfect GO!! J
Appetiiino, Wholesome. i
ii0M Makes The Mim 1
Cake Am Pastry Lighter,
Sweeten, Finer Flavored
and one of them related a tale he had heard of
the poet Wordsworth by one who had known
him Intimately. It seems that this bard was In
the habit of writing at night and In the early
morning, and that he used tn rouse his wife
and exclaim, about 4 o'clock. " Maria, get up. I
have thought of a good word!" Whereupon his
obedient helpmate arose, and recorded It upon
paper. About an hour after a new Inspiration
would seize upon the poet, and he would call
out. "Maria, get up. I've thought of a better
wordl" We listened with admiration, out the
bright-eyed American remarked, with a wave
of the red rose In her hand, " Well. If he'd been
my bust and. I should have said. Wordsworth,
get up, I've thought of a bad word I' "
talk Anotrr corsets.
Why the Hmarl Woman I So Well Rtayed
xeara How to Wrsr m Coroet,
The corsetlere who knows her business, says
Mrt fir lu -Mode, can supply the correct shape
of corset from time to time as the figure, de
velops, but the woman forwbom the corsets are ,
made must do some of the work herself. Mme. '
X. herself says thai with all the corsets in the '
world she cannot keep her promise to pro-luce t
a perfect fignre unless tbe woman who wears i
them will do her part. She most learn to walk
well, lo sit correctly, to "carry" herself prop
erly, to hold her head up, to elevate the bust
by raising the chest to where it belongs, and to
keep the shoulders where they should be (w hlch
ts where they fall naturally when the chest is
carried up where It belongsi.
Then again. while every corset must be
, moulded to conform to the figure It encircles,
the woman who appreciates a good figure must
have several corsets at one time. For the cloth
tailor-made gown there must be one corset, for
the decollete dinner gown another klcd, for tha
necllg- robes de chauibre another style, for
the blocle quite another, and so on.
The correct bicycle corset, for example, is '
ventilated, and over the hips has merely aside
steel and some elastic bands. The dinner enr-et j
about the bust Is shaped to conform to the low- ;
necked bodice. The corset for the lounging
gown is little more than a bust support. The '
corset for a walking gown Is built close and
high above tbe bust and lone over the abdomen. ,
The corset for tho empire gown has no bust to
speak of and is little more lhan a belt. die.
The woman who by patience and practice and '
proper corseting has acquired n graxi figure can '
wear a corset longer than the woman who has
a shambling carnage, and "flops" Instead of
sitting correctly. Tbe latter soon forces the
Pones which support the corset into tmpro'ier ;
shajse. and then if h continues to wear It her
figure will be moulded badly instead of well.
A well-known New York corsetlere, whosvm
pathlzes with the woman who must be economi
cal, rays that when a corset Is sesri to Iw lo-dug
Its shapeliness it ran be steamed until the bones
are Ilexible. snd then over a fiatiron the bones
can be restored to their correct snaps. This is
only possible, however, where tbe bet materials '
are used, so that the actual shaping of the
corset wis done in cutting the forms, the bones
being ossxl merely to hold the pieces n place. I
If corset were worn In sight, as bonnets are, I
what a revolution thero would be lu their appearance.
A CLEROTJIAX'S CC11E FOR J.orE.
Advled the Tons Woman to Take to the
nicjcle-Mhe Wa Cured.
Vow lf ieutlewtnmn.
I have been mid thai a great many clergymen
are much troubled by tho members of their con
gregation confiding to them their love troubles.
One well-known and much admired prophet
and evangelist Is so much bewildered by the
quantity and Quality of these confidences that
he now makes It a rule not to see any member
of the fair sex In the vestry unless she states
beforehand what she wants to consult him
about. One day. however, whrn he had
preached a very eloquent sermon, a sou
eyed lady member of his congregation fnced
her way Into his house on the pleA of urgent
business, and. In spit of his molt discouraging
mnnner. Insisted on Informing him. with tear
and sobs, that the had fallen hopelessly lu loiu
with a certain gentleman of her acquaintance,
and that she did not know what would become
other In life unless he could be persuaded to
The reverend gentleman rose impatiently,
and exclaimed that he should advise the lady
to buy a bicvcle, and go out for along ride every
day until she was cured. The damsel went
, away weeping, and saying that, alas! he did not
understand that her lovo fever was Incurable!
The clergyman thought no more about this In.
terv lew. vv hlch ho had looked upon as being one
I of the disagreeable details ot his profession;
, but a month later, as he was walk
ings along the street, he met a pretty,
I blooming, bright-eyed ulrl. who etopped him,
and exi lalmed, wltti rnihutlusm, "I can never
be sufficiently grateful to you for jour excellent
advice; I havo acquired a lilcjcle.and go long
rides every day, and now 1 have nn time to thtuk
of Mr, -. an I don't care lor hlra nt all."
Lovelorn damsels please N. n., fur I think
that the Hev. Mr. Astute was a wise and whole-soine-mlndrd
adviser. If he had taken her ion
fesslnn seriously she might still havo been
suffering from nn unrequited attachment In.
stead of being a happy, merry girl. To me It is
onlrnne moru proof that there Is no cure like
outdoor exercise for a bruised heart.
The t-lennntrt Way to Die.
JHmi thf tltntlruromtin.
It Is recorded that one of the wittiest and
best-known of our lady writers was once In the
company of a very sentimental and romantic
but touiow hot elderly lady. The conversation.
In which many of both rexos Joined, turned, as
it ofton does when the company is mixed,
upon love and death. The question was
mooted as to what would be the pleas,
antesi manner In which tu depart from I
this pliuift. and the sentimental lea. gowned
lady mul, as she fluttered a volume of poetry
on her knee. "To be kissed to death, that Is tho
only poetic death, more so even thut the rosesof
Hcllogabalus " Very naturally a litter ruissrd
round among the ta'lers and guests, but Mrs,
Dash put up her eveglass and remarked In a
languid, rnilniiiitr voice."! think It would be
somen hat difficult to find an executionerl"
Coal Oil Johnny's
Is while, transparent, and free from diseased
mmmmm animal fats. Sample cake mailed
1IAKOSS JENKINS, New York.
THE lOJI'.V A XV COUXTBT CLVIt, S
A Institution or Convenience to Whopper 3f
from Oat ofTom. M
It was one of those h'.t, muggy days. Th 3 J
shops were crowded with women from out of fj
town who had run in to take advantage of the jyll
summer bargains. They pushed and squeezed H
and crowded one another until everybody 9M
seemed out of patience with everybody ele. nf
Suddenly a little woman in a pale blue shirt if
waist rushed up to a big woman in a linen VjM
suit and exclaimed In tones of delight: KB
"Where did you come from, and where are K
vou staj ing. and how long are you going to ts i5
here? Do come around to my hotel and stay 8f
with mc, I'll pay U of your bills, if you IS
only will." I
"See. here." answered the stout woman good- S?j
naturedly. "If I'm to answer that volley of m
questions, suppose we retire lo the parlor for &
a chat." and she gave a significant glance at g!
the crowd thai had stopped its mad rush for ,$1
marked -down shirtwaists to listen to what
the two hod to say. ?
"An excellent Idea." returned the other. ,.n
"I'm aching for a long talk with you, It'e jl
Just a year since we met. and It was right in UjS
this store, too. Do you remember? I'm fast R8
worn out." she continued, a they seated them- jj$
selves In two big wicker rocker. "Do yon WS
know this thing of a woman's not having any tftl
place in go except a hotel when she somes to jN
the city to do a little shopping is dreadful? jjaj
Why. It takes awoy all of the pleasure of bar- jf
gain hunting. Of course., there ore boarding '3
nnuvsj, but it is very hard to find a desirable V,
o.ie. e peclally In the summer, for landlords Wl
and lat-dladlce are not over careful aoout ref- Jm
erenie in the summer -aon, and I've hod Js!
t such calnful experiences this year al- "$
ready that I made us my mind not to try an- ,'Sj
other this trip, but to eo to a hotel, even ir it 53
Isn't ple-itant to go to one alone. What ar we cSL
women to do about this' You are a woman Jra
of many ideas. Sugiret something." &&
"There is no need of my suggesting any- S3
thing." answered tho linen-begowned woman, gin
as she leahcl bock and smiled placidly. "Some- tfa
thine has already bee done. Do you mean ";&
to say that ou have never heard of tbe Town Ma
and Countrv Club?" 53
"Never." was ihe prompt reply. "What Is SfS
It? Hut 1 can't ee that It will matter much 'f5
to me what It is. for my hussand declares up in
and down that I shall never join a woman I KJ
club. He avs that they don't amount to any- KM
thine but a crowd of women coming together JgSt
to talk about how other people's children jja
should be brought up. instead of giving their KJ;
own the proper attention, and to discuss how
other women should keep their houses and &
manage their hubands. Instead of looking Jji.
after their own domestic affairs and lieg iv
lords. I don't lhi-k myself that It's as bad a flB
that, but at the same time 1 don t like to do aW
anything dlrectlj-opposed to his wishes. But. ilR
tell me. what nas thl club to do with hoard?" ' W
"Kverrthlng. and the Town and Countrv Club -SB
is not such ar'ub as you describe, though I've M
heard that there nre such. It Isn't In any S
I sense of the word s social or a literary or- -S
ganlzation, and its role object Is the comfort of M7
' Its members. Here is what one of Us circulars jM
I snrn about it: JS
' 'Women living up town, in Drroklvn, or tbe 5B
I sulurbs. hoi long felt th necessity for a MS
I pHce of ret In the shopping centre, and thoe p
who lived w dls-an-s away nnd were In the SKl
habit of spending a wiek or two here dunni Efa
I the year were equally anxious for a place ST
other than a hotel or bosnllnc hou-e where It'
they might find n comfortable home wbll is
here. This necessity resulted In the etab- B
lishment of the Town and Country Club at VI ft
' Fast Twenty.second sfeet. Mrs. Florence C. if
Ives is the ono who pushed th - vheme through, 8'
and she 'tt not only the manager but nlo iba '
proprietor cf the club. It was formally opened A
is st October, and has been, a decided succes,, K
which pro ;ss that it was much needed. The t
membership las increns,..! to .(00 and is stead- f
ll growing Tho club house will accommo- Is
date a membership of 500. There is no inl- k
tlatlon fee, and the earl dues are f5, though E
they will 1 advanced Nov. 1, at the begin-
nlngof the second lear. to S10. for all joining
, after that time. The old member, however,
will be retained at S."i. A li-nltcd number of !
, daintily farnUheu bedrooms are placed at the
disposal of t' e memlicrs, only, and they are o
much in demntni that It Is nownbsolutelv
necessary to nppl for them In advance. Th
, price ranges Irotu TA cents to S- a day, ac
i cording to the size and location.'
, 'What about the meals1" interrupted the
little woman, pulling out her shirtwaist
, sleeves. "So far this club scoms t0 v tij,
promised land to me."
I vi'.tu? Lucr lftnn Yonsc. a Georgian by
birth, has charge of the catering. She. like
i every other toouthern woman Pvo ever known,
understands providing thoroughly, and 'under
her management the table is euch as would be
found in a well-aotxvinted prh ate house. Mem
bers are privilege! to iiiv lie guests to meals'
, and I shall take vou thero to luncheon Uvday
!'.', clYe, ou an 'dr of what our club life Is.
, llrctkfast and luncheon tost lOctn'.s each,
afternoon tea 10 cent', ani dinner, which Is
I served table il'lu'ite style. T3 cents ' I've ,
never heail of n giiist taking a meal there who I
dldn t sa. 'My. bat this tastes like home I
cooking,' or something of the kind. Indeed. it
i the appointments of the club are such that a f
I woman fee.s herself as much at home there as
, in her own hous. No men ore admlttod, of
tpure. but tho members who aro stopping
I thero gel together in the evenines and havS
?,'),'!". V' Jollv ,,me"' No wonmn Is received
i unles hc;r references are i-vtlsfartory. It it
suuh a relief to pov down $3 u year and have a
Plato to go to when j ou come to tno city with
out racing )ourself almost to death o got
convenient nnd comfortable slopping nUeo.
'.. !"!,K'.)l n,ons wi'houi this club so long I
CAn t tell
"I'll join hnt club this very dav." an
nounced tho little woman earnestly, "No
more, dreary evening hours In hotels or board
ing ..ouses for mo when my nerv es are on edge
after a day In the shops, and I'm surn I onii
convert my husband , far , this ciuhr cn.
hendld. ' '" J'" ,,,to V"y w'widi-
"V,." i?'ikKl vRbout y'?luhMrs. Ives sold:
tes, It 1ms been n decided success In every
Kl5.lculnr' llcall' '!" orr- that " didn't
keep an nci-mint of tho number of members
who have been accommodated here since tlisj
!?,!' '!f nt''1' .fr,a"' wo""'' lll-e the quiet of
club who could not tolerate the public ty $
hotel, and during the spring the i,'.u"
crowded week after week. Ju iw u.i "'
iJf!li":i1 ""?' ,""",' olteratii.1,. vw.,
demand for single rooms was so a-reli 7ival nS
a-e having a lew of tho double rooms dlvld" 1
Into single ones and. of course, the house will
ectired. and a chaperon is provldeil wh.m
meiulieri to desire. Women living In the nb
tub advtirt sing for servanti v,..l v nX
served, and I must say that I don't hniui. pfl JH1
&lhwaui.h' W A- ftA OWwltU M