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FROCKS ILL SUID
10 YOUTHFUL FIGURES
Satin and Chiffon and Crystal
for the Debutante's Eve
' nltiff Wear.
VELVET AND FUR COSTUMES
Afternoon Gowns Simple in De
sign, but Lovely in Color
1 and Material.
The youthful contingent dcM not own
the world of fashion this year as it seems
to own It in some season.
Of course slendernes and youth are,
as usual, valuable assets, and many of
the modish frocks demand the slender
nets, If not tho youth, hut the older woman
Is having her innings. For her are the
gorgeous brocades and embossed velvets
that are tho marvel of the autumn modes
hut do not rhyme with youth. And then,
though this older woman will And dress
ing an easier task if she is slender than
if she Is plump, there are more becoming
models for tho woman of matronly figure
than there have been in recent seasons.
She can have her skirt full enough for
comfort and grace without being out of
the .fashion picture, and clover drapery
may improve her lines, and her coats may
lie long and full enough to bo becoming
without departing from Parisian rules,
and longer skirts and trained skirts will
(jive her height. Yes, the older woman
has much to be thankful for this fall,
VELVET AND SEAL.
tfceugh she may not always take advan
tage of her opportunities; but the young
person need not grieve, even though the
handsomest of the new season's materials
are not for her.
There are quantities of adorablv youth
ful models and exquisite material galore
that are available for the dgbutarte and
her younger Bister, and In all the dress
making establishments just now there
is a flurry of debutante' chiffon and lace
and tulle, alone with the richness of
brocade velvets and furs and rich stulTs.
Chiffon, marquisette, tulle, charmeuse.
the creiies, some of the taffetas these
are the materials most used for the youth
ful evening frock and all of them are
shown In a wonderful range of colorings.
All of the pinks are even more than usu-.
ally popular, with perhaps rather more
stress laid upon th.' vivid, though soft,
tones than upon the very delicate shad
ings. The poppy pinks, coial tones and
delicious French rose tints are all liked,
but there is th pale rose petal pink too.
and some of the loveliest of the dance
frocks are in this delicate pink with silver
, and just a touch of fur.
One charming frock among a dozen
in making for a pretty girl who is to make
l her debut this month was of a very creamy
pink, almost a tea rose tone, in charroeuse
partly veiled in soft brown tulle, with here
and there a vory narrow line of brown
fur and with little clusters of silk and vel
vet posies tucked into the bodice folds
and catching the tulle draperies. The
I flowers shaded from the palest of creamy
pinks down to a deep yellowish pink that
was almost a red, and the whole color,
scheme was extraordinarily successful.
The maker admitted that she had taken
her colorings from an imported model
shown at several of the openings, but
she had improved the lines of the frock,
j given them a distinct youthfulness and
! added the note of fur. There's no deny-
, ing that there are uncommonly clever
adapters in this country. Just how much
i real creative talent lies latent among
American dressmakers perhaps the fu
ture will show. For the present dress
makers 6eem content to allow the Parisian
1 designers to rack their brains for the
ideas and then they adapt the ideas to
One of the other frocks in the group
to which the brown and pink belonged
was a quaintly picturesque moire in a
delicious French rose with a suggestion
of the pannier In its drapery, a wide girdle
of Nattier blue velvet and little knots of
the velvet among the laces of bodice and
sleeves and petticoat. And still another
' was of white chiffon and cobwebby lace
over white satin embroidered in silver
garlands that were veiled by the chiffon..
There is a good deal of fine color crystal
tracery on the evening frocks of the de
hutantes and the lines of single brilliants
bordering sheer draperies are used too,
though the finer tracery and lines are
considered more youthful. Borne vory
pretty and dainty trimmings in pearl and
crystal are offered at the trimming coun
ters and givo a youthful look, and coral
is well liked for the young girl's frock,
as are certain fine and dollcate little trim
mings of coral and pearl.
An evening frock that was elaborate
yet youthful and charming was of coral
pink chiffon sprinkled all over at two
inch interval with tiny coral beads.
This was made up over a clinging little
robe of white satin, which softened the
tone of the pink and was slightly draped
at the skirt bottom, whero it was not
veiled by tho pink. The caught up drap
'cry revealed the merest glimpse of fine
hllver lace potticout. The chiffon tunio
was bordered at the bottom by a wide,
straight edge band of silver laoe and
qgja aide of the bodioa draperjr. was 'of
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H M J . JMW IfftH
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A FROCK WITH CORAL SPOTTED PINK CHIFFON TUNIC AND SILVER
WITH FLOWERED RIBBON AND WHITE SATIN
silver laoe, while the other was or the
Many or the youthful evening frocks,
most of them, indeed, are still at least
a little high waisted, and certainly noth
ing is more becoming to a girlish figure
than this same high waist line. There
are, however, plenty of models with
natural waist line, and or course all of the
pannier draperies are associated with
this longer waist.
One of the prettiest models of this type
Hhown by u well known llrm is the pannier
frock or the sketch, a datico frock worked
out in white Matin, white chiffon and satin
riblxm flowered in soft pinks and blues
and lavenders. The pannier overskirt
and the lower part of the bodioa are of
the very supple white satin. The rest
or the bodice and the skirt are or the
chiffon, and the original detail of the
model is in the skirt trimming of flowered
satin bands and bows separating white
chiffon puffings of the same width as
the ribbon. Above this trimming the
chiffon is full over a narrow underskirt of
One sees narrow lines of dark fur trim
ming filmy evening frocks, as has been
said before, and frequently these lines
GREEN CREPE DE CHINE.
' TflE.' SUN,
or Tur, instead or bordering tulle draperies,
are set on the satin foundation and veiled
with tulle. Fine garlands of tiny flowers
are veiled in tho samo way und the color
gloaming softly through the filmy veiling
is peculiarly effective, as is the gleam or
gold or silver when, as Is orten the case,
the garlands are or gold or silver gause
inatead of being in color.
Accordion plaiting plays a rather Im
portant part In tho girlish evening (rocks,
affording a change from Die scant' plain
ness or last season's skirlH without the
complicated draperies that 'figure in so
many of the skirts Tor the older women,
Tho accordion plaited chiffon affords n
maximum of effect for a . minimum of
effort, since having tho plaiting done
U h simplo and inexpensive matter,
and whether It is the whole skirt or only
an under petticoat or n flounce that Is
plaited the arrangement is usually pleas
ing. The attractive possibilities in the slm
plt of plaited frocks ore woll Illustrated
by. a. little white, house, or, dance frock,
turned out by a maker-of high repute.
SUNDAY, " NOVEMBER
LACE AND WHITE CHIFFON FROCK
Tho frock, which Is pictured here.
is built up of white chiffon and a sheer
white silk or satin which plaits almcat
as easily as the chiffon. Tbe lower part
of the bodice and a skirt band or Unre
depth are of the Bilk. The rest of the
frcck is chiffon. Chiffon and satin are
joined hmoothly with a hemstitch and
are accordion plaited together. There is
no trimming exospt tint around thsdeml
decol!etas, and at the front of the very
nirrow girdle are set little rosen made of
while satin with Bilver in their centres
anil ror t lie iort sleeves fine lace.
Anything more unpretentious It would
lx hard to imagine; yet some way or other
the little frock has pronounced distinc
tion and seems almost an ideal model
Tor a girl's Informal wear.
A version or tho accordion plaited chiN
ron rrock moro orten seen Is the plaited
skirt with plain or plaited tunio or the
plain sklit with plaited tunio. In such a
model the tunio is more orten straight
than draped and any elaboration the
rrock may have is given to the upper
part or the bodice, which may be cr lace
or" tulle or chiffon over laco. Sometimes
the tunic edges are delicately rmbroid
er?d or outlined with line lines of crystal
and there are tunics mora elaborately
embroidered with crystal, but thetie usually
suggest the ready to wear tunics and
lack, tbe youthfulness that is fo cml
YELLOW AND IROfi.
nently desirable. Tiny ball drops . of
crystal beads finish the Ixrttom of a
straight tunlo effectively and little sprig
motirs embroidered on the cninon or tune
or silk In fine crystal or other beads
are exceedingly chic.
Sprigged crepes and chiffons make .up
quaintly and charmingly for tho girl's
wear if they are properly nanaiea, dui
they are easily spoiled by overeiabora
tlon. The most effective models in this
class have practically no trimming ex
cept some very'chlo girdle arrangement,
knots of ribbon ana some prouy soiten-
Ins lace or tulle about the neck and
sleeves. Hqch materials lend themselves
nartlcularlr well to pannier effects, and
one uncommonly dainty little house
frook was of erepe over whose creamy
ground were scattered prim little clusters
of flowers in old bluo, old roso And soft
The skirt had pannier draperies and
the underskirt was trimmed in flitted
bunds of old blue velvet ribbon. A Sim
ilar band dellned the top of the high
girdle, and above that the softly fulled
bodice and the short sleeves were of
cream tulle with corded shirrlngs around
the neel: and heading the sleeve frills,
and with little knots of blue velvet on
Outsldo the province of the evening
frock there is groat variety in things
for girls' weir. The girdled coats of
Russian or military suggestion are espe
cially youthful and there are numerous
stunning models of this typo, which girls
of from 17 to 12 or ?3 should hail with joy.
The coats, like so many of the season's
smartest models, fasten high across the
che. often cbmjn, quite up to the throat
and being finished by a close fur collar.
The coat varies in length, but Is loosely
belted or girdled and the skirt may be
plain with just u few plaits let in some
where, but pressed so flatly that they
do not interfere withthe narrow lines
or may be slightly draped. A. sort of
military frogging is often used down
the coat front, and narrow bands of
fur border the best looking models.
Two suits illustrated on this page give
a general idea of tho effects obtained
along these Kussian and military lines,
though the variety in detail is great.
One was in a handsome thick woolly
stuff which looked like a silk ratine. It
was of "a deep gold tone one of the yel
lows that are so beautiful this season.
and it was trimmed in brown chiffon
and dark brown fur. Tho other, in brown
corduroy or corded velvet, had a trim
ming of brown fur.
Velvet, plain and corded and uncut but
not brocaded, will be much worn by the
younger folk for dressy afternoon rocks
and suits, and altogether delightful things
or this kind are shown by the dressmakers
and importers. The browns -are espe-
WHITE CHIFFON AND SATIN.
cially liked for these costumes and there
are some wonderful blues and reds In the
velvets that are Btlll more wonderful
when fur trimmed or worn with furs.
C. C; Shayne & Co.
Importers and Manufacturers of
STRICTLY RELIABLE FURS
Will Display This Week
a Number of Especially Attractive
126 Watt 42nd Street
BUok velvet too, when appropriately
made, is very attractive .for youthful
wearers and It seems likely that we shall
see many girls wearing black or very
dark blue velvet with stunning white
blouses and white fox furs.
Among the afternoon frocks it is hard
to pick and choose, for there are Innu.
merable pretty examples m veivei.m cnr
mouse, In crepe, In chiffon, In corded silk,
in silk ratine and in light weight woollens.
The beet of the models are almple In
design but lovely In color and material
and with some dainty, original touch
about collar or sleeve or girdle that sumps
the frock as of this season.
One very pretty and practical nine
frock worn at a tea the other afternoon
was of charmeuse in a curious light yel
lowish green that was beautiful in Itself
but, would have been trying to a com
plexlon less charmingthan that of the
girl who wore it. The design of the frock
was or the simplest, as will be seen from
the sketch of It. .but the color gave It
distinction and It had the daintiest of
little green chiffon gulmpcs laid over
cream tulle and finished around the throat
and down the front by a little plaited frill
or the tulle. Vndersleevea matched the
gulmpe. Dull gold buttons and a little
dull gold buckle Were on the narrow belt
or leather matching the charmeuse. A
big black hat with a single dull brownish
yellow rose on It was worn. There wore
plenty of more elaborate toilets, but
none more chlo.
Borne very short, loose little coats,
little mora than boleros, appear in the
girlish models, and genuine boleros are
not lacking, though they are more oiwn
a part or a frock than a separate coat.
Onm raakor ahnws the coat suit sketched
here In brown wool and brown silk plush,
the straight coat fulled at bottom into a
wide, straight plush band girdling the
hips, but tho model, while It has a cer
tain smartness and originality, is rather
too extreme to be satisfactory.
One of the beet looking street costumes
made ror a prospective debutante lias a
skirt or Scotch, plaid wool in .dark blue
and green plaited all around, but with
the plaits flatly pressed ana new at. not.
widn footband of black velvet
bound at the UDDer edge with black braid.
The coat la a very severe smartly tailored
model of black velvet, made on cutaway
lines and bound with braid.
XETUIN'OF THE NIGHTCAP.
Dae Is'Fsrt'tt Its-Dalr.tlo.ees,
Part to Sleelt Oatdears.
Nightcaps are In vous sfaln. Their
return Is due no doubt to the custom of
sleeping out of djors and also to their
The popular nightcap is made of the
sheerest linen or cambric, allo.'er lacs
or hand embroidered batiste; In fact any
. L ", -..,.. h .i.iw .mhroiderv
j Boma nightcaps have Inserted resl lace
munitions surrounaea ay emoremci
A debutante of this season has a set
of six exquisite nightcaps which once
belonged to her godmother. They have
little monograms which happ.a to be the
girl's own Initials.
Manyof the 'prettiest models of these
prcsent'day caps are copied exactly from
those worn by the ancestors or tbe owners.
They are made of fine materials, trimmed
with narrow ruffles or plaltings of lace,
and they have the same short, dainty
; strings .with rounded ends showing's bit
of lace or an emorotaerea spray or group
These filmy lace affairs will net suffice
alas! for those who sleep out In tbe open
the winter through. Ho practical caps for
real warmth and comfort must be consld
ered. These need not necessarily be the
thick red flannel variety our neuralgic
grandparents wore, but they must be suffl
IrUutly heavy. Home of last summer's
laucy worK seemeu 10 ue me uuiiuiiiioiiuk
of soft white flannel caps for midwinter
uie. These thick flannel affairs are to be
lined with soft wash silk, as the feeling o
flannel is not pleasant against the fuce
Other caps are of sltlc crepe and lamb's
wool combination, and when finished with
ribbon ties snd bows the whole effect Is
A OHHSTMAB HINT.
t'sef ml This Which Mar Be Baasht
Cheap JVw far Gifts.
If Christmas is not to be a period of con
fusion and despair now is the time to take
action. A little energy In making the
most or this season s bargains, a little brows
ing about in the shops, snd that breathless
hurry which comes near spoiling the holl
.In- m.n.. V.- n I.I -
Iv... y u iui ...4 ii j u.iicii mil n niuiurj,
Kven tho busiest women will have odds and
lends of leisure during the early fall days,
and It materialsare purchasedand the wort
planned now wonders can be accomplished
i In the way of providing holiday gifts.
ine snop counters display cliarmln
dowered organdies, sheer lawns nnd inus
Una selllnic at low prices. Tbsy are not
soiled remnants, but fresh goods. These
flowered stuffs make pretty bureau drawer
sadists bound with Inch wide ribbon
Home housekeepers like large sachets hues;
up against the closet walls. In fact a
gifts sachets never come amiss. Other
safe gifts are -pads for trunk trays and
bags In which to pack shoes, handkerchiefs,
shirtwaists, Ac, to keep them protected
when travelling. '
Attractive negligees, breakfast jackets
and fancy sewing aprons can be mad
at slight expense by picking up the bargains
In dainty flowered materials offered now
on every hand. There arr bargains, too,
at the lace and ribbon counters, so it doesn
cost much to evolve really elaborate crea
lions if one has originality.
Checked ginghams in soft blues, pinks
and yellows are cheap' now and make nit
laundry bags. The'y are made with
smocked tops, thus ilolnc away with tu
customary troublesome nratistrlnc. rJ
shoe canes, portfolios, wornnassnmi trnrJ
Unit rases the remnants or colored m
marked down now aro admirable.
Uarrralua in lace should not bo passul v,l
for they can be fashioned Into nmJ
blouses, boudoir caps and neck flxlnc tnJ
able for Christmas clfts. Other ImrralJ
are attractive remnants of velours, brocij
and tapestry for pillow covers and tat,
spreads. Many remnants can be bonf
ror 50 cents ana tneir possioiuties ti
Itibbon sales should not be overlook!!
for nothing In the fancy work line nnwil
days seems complete without a finish ,
ribbon. A bolt of lingerie ribbon with J
silver bodkin attached Is a welcome ei'J
Hoth narrow and wide ribbons will
needed later to tie up sifts.
HATPINS AND FEATHERS.
'Talk about hatpins!" cried Mr. O
serration In a disgusted tone when he gol
home from his dally travels about town'
'A young woman in a Broadway cai
came near putting out my eye with nm
to-day. She turned her head and made
sweep across my face with the busln
end of her hatpin. If she hadn't given ml
a dig with her elbow at the same tint
she'd have had my eye out sure. I thlnl
the man who wrote to the Mayor askliujj
htm to make some ordlpance agal
women wearing hatpins was right."
"How would women keep their hats ti
then?" asked Mrs. Observation, looklu
t don't know," answered Mr. ObserviBVi
Hon. "Iet 'em wear an elastic But tksW
point is that the man was right, and th.
Mayor, In my opinion, was most fllppa:
to say that a man shouldn't get so clou
to a woman that her hatpin could .scratel
Mis. Observation smiled, and placid!
darned socks. She was always amused aim
Mr. Observation's remarks.
'And now there's feathers," went
the Injured Mr. Observation. "WherrS
got over Into a Brooklyn train, 1,
jammed next to a young woman who woi
a hat with a feather spout coming out i'
A feather spout?" repeated Mrs. C
"Certainly," nodded Mr. Observatlc
And it was a feather spout calculated
U 1 1 , U I 'Z . I. jwu. . .
bad enough. It sprang out or somewit I
crack in the Bide of her hat and by tl
way, women s feathers all seem to
planted that style, this ran; naven t y
"It's the fall way of trimming hat
said Mrs. Observation, picking up anothl
"Oh. is ltr snarled Mr. Ohservatu
A silly fashion, I say. Where's tJ
beauty of It? What's It for?
"Well, this young woman's hat was I
the latest fashion, I suppose. Her feathi
swept a circle or at least mreo zeet evei
time she. turned her head, and s!
seemed to be turning It all the time.'
"I stood It as long as I could. Fir
t thought It was a fly or a mosquito, f
I was reading a paper. nen I 111
brushed It away a few times I found
sprouted from the hat of the woman 4
side me. I looked at her mildly thou
she would apolORixe when she found si
wss annoylnR me "
Mrs. Observation lifted her eyebrows i
the thought of Mr. Observation's ml
glances, as she drew the edffes of snoth
"But she didn't." went on Mr. Observ
tlon sternly. "So I folded a piece ef n1
newspaper and held It up between it
face and her feather.
'That seemed to annoy the youi
woman. She turned her head round an
round nnd every time she did 1? tl
feather knocked the newspaper. ' fu
glared at me, I know she did, rori
people on the other aide of the car ttte
ana they were enjoying it, ior lots oi
poor men, I suppose, had suffered
"And at last " Mr. Observation
growing excited, "what do you think
aid to me? What 7
"Well, what?" asked Mrs. Observatlo
"Why. she leaned forward nnd said
me, most Indlimnntly,' most Indl-nantl.i
repeated Mr. Observation, 'Sir, you i
lnjurlntc my vuluubte feather.' 'Featl
madam,' I said to her. 'It la more thai
ueath-r. It la a menace to human conifi
1 I .1 ' , .1 !...., ., n -v
aim urtnu-j, miu iiim ,
left the car, I'm thankful to say." '
And with an air of having contrlbuf
somethtne to the good of the human rai
Mr. Observation resumed his paper.
A man oi
have ray hair.
but If the fact
is younf thej
are net ULU.
tixhten the akin aroun
the eyes and chin you rSV
move the "traces of att,
(Draw it tight vourif
and see for yousrelf.)
If the akin is aa tight aa it ought
be. it will "fit" the face and CANNO
"wrinkle." Thia is just what DnJJ
Pratt doea ! He tightens the akin
makes it "fit" the face. He can
refresh a bad complexion or withei
akin and restore the vitality in a fact
is without doubt the '
Greatest Living Face Expert
20 years' unlimited practice and
experience has developed wonder
ful skill In hia chosen profession
He can correct the imperfection
of nature, reshapert your Note, Lip
.Cheeks, Chin, and mojte your feature
shapely and becoming.
Traces of Age Removec
Baggy Chins, Sagging
(.heeks, flabby nocks,
fuHy or L.ooae Skin
around the eyes
Of course, if
your fortune is
made, or you
own your own
does not matter
quite so much how
you look, but atill It
paya to have a young
face and becominc features.
for it assures you the best things '
Whether von call or write, ho I
ta aiVed for information and advice
Your questions will be answered f
an experienced specialist wun intcwi
nnu' and unlimited experience
Write Dr. Pratt to-day for hia. facl
BOOK Sent Free.
OFFICE HOURS: 9 A. M. to 7 P. Ml
Greatest Face Institution in the WorW
1122 Broadway, New York
P. S. Over 630 Deonle patronizst'i
'Dr. Pratt last month. People go Ml
klm irnm all aver the world. Be
aides he sends treatment to nearlfj
vara countrv on the face of thsi
.Ink.. Writs him freely for in for-3
matlon concerning anything about!
your Face or features. f (
s '. " 1 i " ''
Vr waft, hi' r i't1 .it Jit !;. . r,f&it'&-jSyj!!JiJ!! ( t;i