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title: 'The sun. (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, September 10, 1916, SECTION 3, Page 6, Image 26',
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THE SUN, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 1910.
SKIRT LINES L
Variety and Charm Keynotes of the
Early Displays of Fashions for
the Coming Season
By ELEANOR HOYT BRAINERD.
A .SK.UiO.V iif charming frocks.
- Ki,ry worn in who looks ut the
cnrly autumn collections of
high grade models will Indorse that
verdict mill will rt-nlbo with a com
fortable fcllng of Killifnctlon that
among the charming frocks there are
things that will suit her admirably.
Extremes there lire, of tourse. More
extremes than will ha when American
manufuuturrrs nml dress-tinkers have
geen ull th.it Paris hati done In fantasy
and have adopted tlio I-'rcuch sugges
tions; hut even the extremes promise
to bo bo varied that they will prove
adaptable, and In between the extremes
there aro lovely things of us great
Tho I'ronch openings l.ave exploited
n encoumglng eclecticism. One may
bo phiuant or stately, picturesque or
conventional, corneous or Ingenuous,
and Mill he'ii la mode. In that rrurl.il
problem of length, tor t:nmple, no
nxea ana unaiicranie answer 1.1 given.
The famous designers have made their
frock nk'riM ui the lengths that pleased
them. Naturally, slneo there 13 a gen
eral feeling for less bouffimcy, the
skirts have all lengthened a trllle. The
narrower sllho'iet'e nils itulMbly for
tho longer hue. hut If C.i''o rhoo.es
to drape n narrow underskirt about the
anklet) there Is no lav.' to make 1'aquln
forswear n sl;rt of shorter length and
amplo Hate; and a lon ttnint-tl skirt
need by no means be draped ubout the
ankles, but may sweep out gracefully
about tho feet.
That we are to have 11 goodly num
ber of long fro.-ks-fineks not inertly
trained, hut hum' all around--seems a
fact established, rrml many u woman
will welcome cnthuMaHioalty tho op
portunity to adopt the lung lines once
more, but dancing, while not an obcer
r.lou now. Is still ttcmendouslv popu
lar and thoTlmeo frivk wllf resist over
lengthculn;;. tliiui'sh It wilt malm con
cenalous. O110 term which such concessions
take In some of th. pf-tllcit now
models Is tht Intro.liKtiou of full frills
of tulle. ievrral of them overlapping
and Irregular of 1 dgo- ' clow the
heavier skirt line of -t .-UK or velvet
or other substsi.ttnl materia", the sjeer
stuff continuing the skirt line to the
ankle, yet .-enil-tiaiisp:ucnt and
WINTER .QUARTERS FOR
THE UNATTACHED WOMAN
ANV imatt iched women aie
confronted with the annual
pi vd'.. u .rvli.trr quarters
In New York. Uc .uie of tho prohlbl
tlvo.prlco of tingle rooms with privnte
bath and kitchenette, tlm u erase
woman la glud to compromise on .1
room sublet from a tenant occupying
on apartment In a dcsirublo house.
Bueh an arrangement N often highly
satisfactory, us t!ui sub-tenant Is In
sured tho use of a bathroom with not
more than two or 'line others, can
often arrange tor what aro termed
kitchen privllegis and has all tho con
veniences w.tn which tlio house Is
equipped. Thro vary with tho rent
in the high cm -a apartment housed. In-
eluding ele itur 'uid door service, tele
phone, electric light, mall chute, on
every flour, m ut delivery and other in
While tha prlre of subletting a
single room in an expciisivi! apartment
Is considerable tl"-ie an' many women
enjoying all these conveniences at
prices ranging from J I to $7 t week.
Tho advantage In such an arrange
ment Is that tho Mib-tenant i com
paratively flee, and if the loom does
not mensuir up to her requirements
she is lmmperi d by no !twe. (
- For the woman who has collected a
few personal bits of furniture It Is a
wimple matter to furnish an apartment
room so that It shall pass muster ah 11
living room, even to a critical caller. '
Where the original tenant does little
housekeeping, the dlulu-r loom la fre
quently subl"t ifiul maki-n a de-liablo
living room tor the woman fortunato
enough to discover nuch a pilze. Hven
dismantled kitchens art quickly picked
up the room hiinlir, as these, have,
unexpected advantages. The built-in
china elm' .-lth cupboards below
makes a splendid substitute for n bu
reau mid t ,0 '.pi iv m signed for tho
set 1 tubs Is just light for the ubiqui
tous couch. In soui" rare Instances 11
tiny maid's bedroom, with separate
lavatory, ripemi off the kitchen, so that
tho two rooms form a miniature suite.
An interior decorator, who has made
a study of what sho terms two In one
rooms, advlres the purchase of repro
ductions of antique furniture, claim
Ins; that they nrn better ndapted to do
double duty than are tho correspond
ing pieces of modern furniture. The
nub-tenant of u good sized room, In
tended as a iltiilng room, has proved
the truth of thl.i htnteinent. Instend
nf a bureau, rho lin s tl." aniol" dra.v-
era anil compar'meut.i of an old ma
hogany ilis-lt. over which banns a re
prod'uttlim of .m-antlqiic i:nor. With
tho (lCld; open. rCIV leill,h,to for tilt)
toilet Is w!' '11 reach. An l!H'Xpen"lvo '
copy of the f.H'i'i'iH Manila Washing
ton scivliu t ''e oilei another attrar.
tlvo arrar'-i uiri'i which ! es Tint bo
tray Its " ".''ime. The deep seven
sided reet it Us at c.u ii end of tho
druvc" hii are lnval'iable,
An Imp ' taut item lu Mich a rom
ibinnttoji 1 em Is a reproduction of a
gate ley taMt With both h-iives down,
this 1b Ji "t the '-.glit clr.e for a tei'd
ing lump nil a few hi "Kn and mag.i
r.lne. V.'l'. one leiif nils-il, then- Is
sulllclon ' for aftei noon tea, w liiln
With the t Me e;leueil to full nlze a
Jolly Utlie 'I party can be cuMly
Anothtr , .1 e of furnltiiie which can
ho mado t , .10 d'jubln duty Is an old
fHr.hlomd book coi with glass dooi.
tho r'Jll'ei,, cnm:t.ile.1 by having til"
gllisa hie' I with . h.iie l drapery bilk
comrhjKis in ' vlth the ut Ik i- iiirnisli
liign. ! '!' 1. h;. t'i" si.' if. , a rod
cm b iit-rd in on wl''':i clothis
lians;er pli. - I. Auu'iier method
Mini l no 1 m,i.,ii woiii-'ii Is to a'
tarh a t ' 1 privetii hook, similar
tn I he kind ,e"d for bl'il ci'ges, to the
hick of her book cam;, facing tho
O.uura. One of these- larsc hooks will
I fluffy, so that from a distance the over
skirt still has on air of shortness and
That lines from shoulder to hem are
ns a general thing to be shorter seems
unquestionable. Tho closely drawn In
waist Is exceptional and any form of
' hip drapery or distention Is also an
exception, though aide draperlea somc
I times flare widely lower on the skirt
.and tho skirt bottom usually sweeps
outward because of ample folds.
' Tho long, flat front Hue and back
' line with side fulness has not been
diccarded, la Indeed more emphaslxed
now that the longer frock is possible,
1 and some of the most graceful of the
trained evening gowns are built up
In thti fashion.
A black and gold model Illustrated
among our small cuts is fashioned
along these linen and Is of the wear
able, conservative type that wilt be a
Joy to tho woman who has disliked the
short bouffant evening skirt, for with
It.s graceful and conservative llnea goes
an elegance of material and detail that
make tho model a very distinguished
'one. Front and b.ick are of gold and
black brocade, wonderful, soft, lustrous
stuff, and tho entire black ground of
this material is embroidered In lints
of tiny black Jet tubes running cross
w.hi, the lines tpiite closely spaced.
Tho effect of this ornamentation Is
udmirablo and tho Jet weights the silk
so that It falls .straight despite Its soft
ness. Kiom under tho heavier front
and back of tho skirt very fuil sides of
black tull embroidered In Jet emerge
' and the bodice Is largely of Jet em
broidered tulle with ft bit of lace about
1 1... ...
the little sleeves.
Any one might comfortably wear a
frock of this type: but to udopt the
long skirt of tho dark brown frock in
our large group takes more Inltlutlve.
Still, If (.'allot and Cherult both look
wilt, fiivnl'itlila aVa- nn !! .a
I shall come around to them, and thte
African brown model has found quick
acceptance wltji tho most exclusive
trade on this side of the water. It Is
a domestic, model, worked out long ago
by a designer whose models alwavs
I rival tho French Imports In popularity
among our smartly dressed women;
1 but It la oddly in lino with some of the
Krench models whoe secrets were
, caiefully guarded until time for Paris
, openlngs. and Its sponsor smiles cheer
fully over the success of his guess.
I "I felt It that way," he says, "and
though I doubted whether my class of
buyers would ee It my way, I've never
I launched an extreme model that has
hold n halt dozen wire hangers, the
arrangement being similar to a ward
robe ttiink. ,
Tho fashionable "day bed" with Its
prim pillows at head and foot offers a
pleasant variation from the ordinary
couch with Its profusion of pillows,
and lends Itself well to a room which
must serve a twofold purpose. An
ordinary cot can be provided with an
inexpensive head and foot board of
rtnlned wood. Where the furnishings
arc of cretonne, this coveririg may be
lacked over common pine and tmed
as a framework for the Improvised
day bed. A floor pillow of the same
material Is an attractive addition.
GUDEPES IN VOGUE AOAW.
GUtMPKS are coming into vogue
again for children. The prac
tical waeh fabrics are still to
be among those topular with the
Miiart little folks. Kittle plaited skirts
seem to be used on practically every
model, even on the smallest child.
Some have the Jackets slipped over
the head or buttoned on 'the shoulders.
Oulmpes, which have often been mado
f r little folkH from their mother's
shirt walstH, will be of much use to
them this season, since practically all
have the little white sleeves and yoke
of Infvn, linen, batiste, organdie and
other sheer materials. For the fancy
drerscs, Georgette is used.
A frock of stiver striped yellow
been taken up so promptly by buyers
who cater to the most fastidious
Tlio answer 1s simple enough.
Women are tired of tho short, full
flaring skirt. It has never suited ah
women, and it has been dono to death.
The time Is ripe for chango and the
buyers realtzo It. Then? too, this par
ticular example of the extremely now
makes up in quiet rellncment of color,
A frock of apricot taffeta, one
silk with a yellow tulle bodice,
material and dctnll for its radicalism '
In lino, Is distinctly a gentlewoman's
frock, all dark brown chiffon nnd
Fntln, with a relieving note of'ermlne
about tho collar nnd fhecr soft white
In the bodice front. The very full, long
folds of iho chiffon tunic veil tho nar
rowing line of tho skirt, nnd It Is only
I around the ankles that the narrowness
hhows lu soft drapery' dragged back- ,
I ward by the little train. i
of black and gold, one of putty
and a very long gown of African
A I'irnch mndl with much the same '
effect of skirt bottom has the dropped
Mojen Ago waist line in front and
long, Mowing, rn.it llko sides and back
of embrolrteicd tulle.
Taffeta and velvet stripes In one tone
coloring are imM for the skirts of
some of the prettiest short evening '
frocks, and wide stripes In silver or 1
gold and rotor are also liked. With i
thrso striped skirts, which call for 1
colored satin and crepe and one
- . lAeizrr-A I
brown chiffon and satin with
little er no trimming th ugh they usu
ally show a soltenlng frou-tri. i of
tulle abou' the biittrt'ii, go bo,P es
calelly ot tulle or chiffon, with Ju t a
little of ti e elet nr met il t lepe.u
the skltt note.
A niiciv. iful model of thl ioit Is 'he
eIow in d silver ev nine frock of our
Hketch, wIiom- taffeta nnd silvi r still"
skin N s.irmounted by a bullet- of
ydlow tulle, silver embioideied atal
of blue and silver.
The Touch of Fur Seen Everywhere--New
Colors and New Materials
Novel Uses of Pri 1 1 s
i made with waistcoatlike lines drop-
ping over the skirt top.
Another pretty model that departs
but little from the traditions of tho
past season, though It Is a trifle
longer than the summer dance frocks
by- virtue of frills of tullo and is not
widely distended though very full, has
un oversklrt of npricot taffeta striped
widely In velvet the same shade and
draped a little at the sides over a full
underskirt of apricot tulle. The
bodice Is of tulle and lace, and a nar
row band of mole fur bordering the
skirt front and sides la continued to
form a girdle across the back.
Everywhere one Amis the touch of
fur or tlio lavish uso of fur and
great cleverness has been shown In
the handling of these fur trimmings,
the ordinary bordering bands being
less in cvldcnco than odd little girdle
arrangements of fur, fur collars, &c.
Of course, tho bordering bands are
popular, too, and very wide bands ap
pear on the bottoms of skirts or tunics
In afternoon and street models; but
these trimmings, though effective and
handsome, nrn vlnux Jeu, and some of
i 'he Ie.i htrlklng but moro original fur
i uintlrs nrojnoro interesting.
There Is a putty color satin and
i -blffon frock, lightly steel embroidered,
that has n cleverly applied little girdle
of moleskin appearing from under a
I bllko bit of embroidered satin on
the bodice, front running downward
through openings In 11 short straight
to.'tlike affair of embroidered chiffon
and showing below thin coat at the
back- -an eopcclnlly good looking and
skilfully ilc'ixntd model this, and,
I'tKV more, a gentlewoman's frock.
Wo cvillcd the materials of this
fro'k putty color, but "putty" and
"beige" and "sand" are used care
It sjdy nowadays to cover a host of
loelv toneii that nrn neither light
,rny nor light brown, but smoklly soft
shades midway twlxt the two, some
times dashed with green, sometimes
with yellow, sometimes with mauve
fir pink all of refinement and charm,
though not universally becoming,
t'.-irlis ban done much with these tones
during the vintner and wo are evi
dently to f.ee it great deal of them
during the coming season, usually
with fur or nictiil n.s a relief for their
ICM'.n for evening wear these shades
arn nlten choen, nnd If a woman 1ms
the cob ring to-carry off such an even
ing trock It would be a most practical
and satNf.tct.ory Item of a wardrobe.
I.Ike the iijrlc blue, dark brown and
(DRESS NEEDS OF A GIRL
AT BOARDING SCHOO!
Plt.U'TIOAI.M' all of the best
."choo!? set apart a spaco In
their car book or Issue special
booklet on tho nil Important aubject
of the school wardrobe. But even with
this help mothers are often puziled as
to Just what and how much their
daughter must have.
They want to feel .confident that they
will be or well dressed and as suitably
equipped us other girlr, still the indul
gent parent does not always heed tho
s bon a,lic and eeuds her daughter
off mi h'T llrst rxperK'nce alone with
an iitisuit.ibln and overdressy outfit.
Cot reel simplicity Is not plain nnd
unattractive, mi It .-otiniis to many
jimiiK jiiN I "or any school llfo two
df. ne ie vsury, one of a sensible
ue.itliet iun.,f tw I. on thn plain Nor
f' !k mil" i, with some Mift, becoming
l' ' 'it to nnitrh. The m riind suit,
fur but i h and afternoon wear, a tlark
blue nut, rial, with braiding nnd dull
lilt or blue biuie buttons its a trim-mill--,
Is nairwt"'(l, This suit may
Kivp a l-lt of fur, piMhly martin, at
-! nut and sleevrs, f n sepnrite fur
mil tn ntr will not be worn. With tld
"lest suit- u niniiuni Kacl, vclwt
hat with possibly a coloieil facing and
i i-it of smart feathery trimming, but
i wuvinc plumes, or one o!' the soft,
hemming mushroom hats ataln In
black evening frocku that have be
exceedingly chlo If successful n!
hopelessly uninteresting If unuccty
ful, these smoky light gray brown,
and brown grays are usually develop
for evening wear In tulle and inert v
them have glints of metal s,omcwhcT.
Ono of the most attractive shor.i.
among the new models Is of light taupe,
tone In tulle-over a silk that f!io. a
very lino cord strlpo of silver mm
taupe. Ono hardly realizes that tin re
Is silver In tho silk, yet tho im-t.i
lightens and brightens tho general
tone of the frock delightfully; and
about the bodice there are a few fine
cobwebby touches of sliver.
Another of the gray brown tulle
evening frocks Is lighter In shade,
more of an actual putty tone, and 1
hung over silver cloth and embroidered
delicately in crystal.
Brown tulle or chiffon Is often used
In artistic color schemes, veiling other
colors smoklly, as in tho case of at.
. vut- - wi.ubiua v. t v , . . I 111,111 11 1 U
over which brown chiffon wan thrown,
I with a little fur and mctnl embroidery
Ifer trimming; but these effects call for
tan artist's color senre, and the one tone
frocks of this "putty" nnd "beige" ui,.i
"taupe" class aro a safer proposltli.
j In satin of considerable lustre IN
' have more life than In materials of r,,i
surface, and are often becoming w.an
other material in tlm same coa r
scheme would ho trying.
Many natlna are featured among t'i
new models and new materials uv
j derfully rich weaves, of tho Ouehi -,
class, lighter nnd softer wc.ivea of hi .
lUBtro and tho charincupo satins to,
.In practically all of tho dressier tai ,
models thp silk Is combined with
I fon or tulle, but there arn guod looking
trotting frocks all In satin or s.itln m,
cloth and in the dark coloring, dark
blues, browns, greens, purples and ti,
Iwlno reds, but as usual with emphab
I on the blues. One' very chlo h'tle
frock In black satin of rather did
finish has a trimming of black nicin.
applied In two Inch bands Iliitly phut I
crosswise, and though tho combln.nl ...
pounds queer, tho result l.s uudenu ,
One piece trotting frocks of sergi ir
of wool Jereey u.sinlly show much e i.
of tlno side or box plaits which ei e
fulnesa whlln preserving urmshtt
of line and tho dropped or Movtn s
waist line Ls much featured in tb .
model.", though variations upon t
theme are numerous and ."..itneiimr,
vogue, nnd no suitable and chic '
There Inll.st he n lnr,.
either of n plain cloth, fur lined, or a
neavy plain mixture, possiulv bill'
green. If a blue color ncht-mc ban be
c nose u ror tho season's nartir"
Simple blouses aro the proper sole" i ,
for n girl's dally ue. The oft w
silk, well tailored and of tine c
wear well and launder satisfart.. t
In some schools transparent hlmist of
silk or lawn un- not allowed
waist nf blue chiffon or uiqe, t.
soft embroidery collsr and curfs. aJ
Next in Importance to mils
coats and blottsea In th,. -r.a.'v ij
wear" dark blue serge, made up w
colored brnldlng, colored buti.,r
Just with a black fatln bth nnd I
or organdy collars nnd eii r
white broadehth tollar Is in i .
but not prnrtlciil for the s, 'i
Woollen embroidery )s (,ln ,i -
trimming for these' hemming . r.i
vli'eable serge drcM.'c.-.
The matter of dainty little ,rr . s
for evening wear th-, rnd m..
the rules nf tl. HChnol and .. ! w
eiiteitnlnnieiits ro tnrludt.il !'i
schedule. jn Im,at Na,us t,,r fl
nrn required it, make a thai, v
dinner, and fjr t hi.-, possihlv --t .
dn.sse f pink or white or hi ie
tie rhino or n jlmple llountej ,n t
"f white net with roloie, s,,.
bo itniplc. If the school i u.,..
hae In Its raU'inlar some , qr
enttitaliiment. looked forw.i- i i
"the event," possibly n gown t
moie elaborate shouM be In i.
Mnny mothers plan on r.fuv.
the wardrobe at Chrlstm-iv . n I '
quently an extra cv ruing i n
A tlmple eenlng roat 'n
when the pupils ate taken 1 '
or opera- consigned a par:
ediiwtlnn should no' he , v .
though a smart fur roat v. i ,
tho puip"ue during, tin. w.,
hathgown of pretty rose or r .i -
corduroy with ullppcr.s to tn.i" '
Shoes aro n matter of t hot "'
dlum height heeled bron- ,
and a pair of white fattn ot i -
rjecesanry. These, of coui:e. i.
supplntnented with silk stock1. .
sports wear In winter colored ; ' '
stockings nre the thing. A, le.n.'
pairs of substantial white i n
and two of tho heavy ath's .
used by the average gltl
Why Stolaty Womon Wash
Their Own Hair
Few rcnllze how ninny
women now wash their own 1 i
because it is .1 fntl, hut hccinm ' -wish
to obtain tho crenlrs.t n
hair beauty and be Mire tie;.
not usituj unythitiir huituf-i'
thousands wlio huvr fnui-il tin
wnshinjr tlm hair il is i on w
use u makeshift but is ul'.va, - .
able to u.sr a prrpamtioii u.a'lc
sliampooinK only, taiy the.' r'
best results from u t.impV I '
made rnnthrox tni.Nturr. Y.ni
onjoy this, tho best that is '.i
for about three cents u slmmp
Rettinc some rnntlirov front
ilrupKist, nnd dissolving u trust"
ful in n cup of hot water. v
hhntnpoo is now ready. Aft
use the hair dries rapidly vit
form color. DandrufT, vxe i ii '
dirt lire dissolved find rnttir
appear. Your hair will br so il '
that it will loo!, much heiMf
it is. Its luf.tre and sol'tur
also delight you, while llu
lated scalp gniiis the health wlu
insures hulr growth. Adv.