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EVENING LEDGEB-PHIkADELPHIA, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 10, 1914.
WHAT EVERY WOMAN WANTS TO KNOW-THINGS THAT INTEREST MAID AND MATRON
By 0. HOUSTON GOUDISS
V&ft, Untied States hns begun In earnest
gegr tha warring nations of Kuropo.
t?35' sPtember wo sent abroad twlco
VWucn 'wnftt "! corn, 11 times as
jmttch. fresh beof, 1J times as much sugar,
Ighl times as much canned goods, 36
tlmas m much oats, eight times as mush
Tics ard 10 times as much barley as wo
exported during September of the pre
If the domand were only temporary.
wo might wgard It as a stroke of Rood
luolc. It It were to be a permanent con
dition, and wo had had ample time to
prepare for It by Increasing our produc
tion, it would mean wealth and prosperity
for1 tho whole country through the
enormous Increase of export trade
But. as the matter stands, U Is meeting
mn mars-ancy abroad at the expense of
paopls at homo. Even now, although
there Is enough of this car's crop to
supply the dcfloloncy In Franco, Unglnnd
nnd Balglum and yet leave plenty for
liom consumption, the effect of this
W nnormous Increase of export trade will
undoubtedly affect our own market priced
and b felt seriously by the consumer.
Th situation demands serious thought.
It does not matter at present to tho
nvarage American consumer whether or
tvot the cataclysm In Europe will be of
benefit to our International trade; what
dees matter Is, what effect will It hnve
on the gTocer's bill, to say nothing of tho
butcher's bill. Tho larger view rIiowr us
that our commerce and manufacturing
Interests must and will be benefited when
foreign countries are obliged to como to
us; for products which were formerly
Rent hero from abroad But the man In
tho street, to say nothing of the woman
In the homa. Is Inquiring about what the
effect of this economlo upheaval will be
upon the average American family.
Whatever Its effect may be, the up
heaval Is hers and we have to face It.
There Is Just one way to do this through
conservation of our food supply. Food
reformers and economists have been
XiroAohlng this for years, showing us
facts and figures to prove that our care
less and wasteful methods of production
wero bringing us nearer and nearer to
tho day when we should not bo able to
feed oven our own people. But we havo
grown used to the cry of "Wolf! Wolf!"
and have paid little heed.
We Americans nre optimistic and clisy
Koln'g folk. We admit that conservation
Is all right In Its plnce, but we cannot
The Wealthy Girl
Two girls were walking along Chestnut
Street the other day, quite oblivious of the
shadow behind them, who was listening
to their ery audible chatter.
"What do you want for Christmas,
dear? You know I always bcllevo In giv
ing people what they want, nnd the best
way to find out what they want Is to
nsk. Tou know mother buys me so many
things that I really need very little, but,
of course, everybody Isn't like that."
"No, Indeed," said the other girl, with
R quiet smile.
Just hero tho shadow turned off on an
other street, wondering at the strange
ways of human nature. She noted the
etunnlng velvet suit and lovely fox furs
cxl the first girl, and the simple llttl
serge gown on the second.
"Why one should try to Impress one's
wealth on any one, to say nothing of a
personal friend, la a profound mystery,"
Bald the shadow.
Tou have all met girls like this one.
They aro Usually the outcome of fashion
Able "finishing schools," where false no
tions of snobbery and social distinction
take the place of sound education. Girls
who go to these schools are too frivolous
for college and too restless to stay at
TriTs particular girl was sweat and
pretty. She had dainty, refined ways and
every one liked her.
"Alice Is a dear. She'd do anything for
yau, and I never heard her say a mean
thing about any ona. She's the Jolllcst
kind of a girl In a crowd, unless she be
gins to talk about our Tom's new ma
chine and mother's ermine furs and
baby's VIctrola. Tou'd think nobody
ever had a VIctrola before, and that Tom
discovered the auto. We can all see that
her father has money, but that fact
doesn't keep any of us up nights, Alice
Is-such a dear girl, lt'a a shame she lets
this desire to boast make a laughing
stock of her," said one of her girl friends.
"She told me last week she paid JIM
for her first suit, and that she always
went to the best place In town," said an
other. MI wasn't feeling very nice any
how, so I sold I guessed John D. Rocke
feller's daughter paid more than that."
There Is some reason In this girl's rather
unkind retort Wealth la mostly compara
tive, and why ona should feet above all
others in this particular respect Is Incom
prehensible, even ridiculous. The only
real thing a. girl Is justified In priding
herself on is womanliness and unselfish
ness. These qualities are not bom In
many of us; they mutt be cultivated by
constant, patient effort. Remember, this
effort Is far harder than the ra.ee tor
wealth, and gtve credit where credit Is
Charm of the Open Fireplace
The open fireplace is tha only romantio
thing left In the "efficient" American
home. The creaking radiator has unfor
tunately come to stay, bringing In Its
Make the Innumerable problems of heater
man and plumber, coat and ashes, with
all thair attendant complications, The
only rebel against the tyranny of steam
heat Is the good, old-fashldned fireplace,
y-ong may U live.
The glooms' chorus begins to tell us al
ready of the fireplace's Inconveniences.
"They smoke all over the place, and
tasks everybody cry."
"All I've done Is feed the thing. I carry
woed until my back Is broken."
None of this will happen If you build
tSii Cre properly. In building . wood fire
In an open firaplaee, the first thing to do
Is to shake out a double sheet of news
raiser nd crush It tightly, leaving tho
edges loose so It win ignite easily. The
baok log shculd be of the greatest size
. itbat the flreplaoa will hold, and if It is
of green wooo win Durn longest. ina ids
efeeuld be shoved against the wall If it
is a split loar the Inside of it should be
turned toward the front.
yfcrae logs axe enough to start a, fire
With, tha back log, a smaller one In
jwniit. euid the third one on top of these.
,ait th ass.es of the first three, should
It JJt on the hearth; it makes, a, fine bed
for EijnflT taev sabers hat after they
Jsmp JaMeH through tha andirons.
Max -raur woods If you want Tery
- i..... 1 .!!. T.. . WfnAiQ with dw B
Antar ooeoak and plB with the
f old fruit trees that have died.
SMd jives a pruurir awraeave-
Tg Queen of Italy
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bring ourselves to believe that Hi plnce
lp In the home. The day seemed fnr dis
tant when tho food supply furnished 1?y
our eolonal acreage would not bo snfll
elent to meet the demnndi of our rapidly
Increasing population, and we have cheer
fully gone on bulng what wo could nf
ford, eating what we happened to fancy
and throwing away the rest.
Now with hardly enough warning to
cnnblo us to catch oui breath. We find
ourselves confrontod by tho near pros
pect of n struggle with the same prob
lem that has for venrs been a bugbear
to the nnllnnn of Ktirope-nn nrtunl
senrcltx of food, tn other words. hccIiiv
Mint no power can stop the export of nl
least n pnrt of our food supplies, so long
ns Huropo wants them enough to pay
high prlce for them, It H llltelv that wo
shall bo forced to mend our extravagant
vvnvs and tako lessoni In economy.
Wo must learn to eliminate tho cnor
motlB waste of foodstuffs that hni been
rolng on Tor J.enrs Wo must learn
efficient nnd economic methods of pro
duction nnd distribution It Is not
enough to tiy Intcniivo methods of ag
riculture nnd to nuiko two Wades of
grass grow where one giew before. Wo
must learn tho actual vnluo of ovcry
article of food nnd tnnko It go ns fai
ns It will.
Wo must lonrn how to prevent tho
nppallng breakage and rotting of eggs;
we must stop tho spoiling of fruits nnd
vegetables and see that everything
which Is cntnblo reaches tho consumer
We must Iny the nx to tho very roots
of the economically wasteful nnd dis
honest methods which throw away hugo
consignments of food rather tlrm allow
prices to bo lowered bv a plentiful sup
ply. Abovo all, wo must le.irn to cook.
In future yearn, when wo como to
reckon both tho cost nnd tho gain, we
will nnd that we havo gained much by
meeting tho present crisis Wo will havo
raised fish to Its rightful place nn an
everyday' artlclo of food. We will have
learned to mako a wldor uso of cereals
and other less expensive foods Wo will
havo learned to make savory dishes from
the cheaper outs of meat, and especially
we will havo learned to utilize every
scrap of food.
There could be no greater catastrophe
than tho colossal war which Is now
flhaklng tho civilized world to Its very
centre. But If the stress nnd strain of
It bring home tho need nnd nlso,tho per
manent vnluo of real economy, the
present pinch of stern necessity will bo
referred to b future generations as tho
greatest blessing of this age. .
(Copyrighted by C. Houston Cloudls )
Make a light sponge with one cako of
yeast, ono nnd one-hnlf pints of lukewarm
water and white flour. Let rise over
night nnd ndd ono-hnlf Graham nnd
one-hnlf white flour to mnko It stiff
enough to knead. Knead well and let
rise threo to four hours. The Graham
flour makes It slower to rise than vvhon
all white is used Knead again and mnko
Into loaves and lot rlso to top of pan. If
the pans aro well greased with melted
fat and tho loaf la turned over In this
It will not be necessary to grease bread
any further. Bnko In a slow oven an
hour to nn hour and a quarter.
THE CARE OF THE CHILD
Children fall Into careless llttlo habits
often becaueo grown-ups fall to tako tho
proper care of them which may spoil
their appearance In later years. Tho
things are so small themselves that oven
a careful mother may overlook them.
For Instance, do you use strongly scent
ed aonp on a child's soft skin? Unless
you know the exact composition of this
soap, It Is probably not suited to a tender
Bkln. As a result, your baby will grow
up with red veins on her cheeks, or with
a coarse-grained, blotchy complexion. A
baby's faco should be gently washed with
a very soft silk-sponge nnd a pure un
scented soap. Almond meal Is good,
too, If put Into a cheesecloth bag. This Is
a sort of wash cloth, made of part al
mond meal and part oatmeal. Put In
enough to make the bag about as thick
Luncheon Table Decorations
One of the newest Ideas for the lunch
eon table Is the crocheted bonbon basket,
The advantage of this is, that you can
always have a pretty decoration on hand,
and they will look fresh and far superior
to the fancy paper boxes. Nothing looks
so dilapidated as crepe paper articles
which have been torn or handled.
Buy plain oardonnet crochet cotton.
Make enough two-lnoh wide, shell-stltch
edging to go around a Jolly glass or
small dish. Sew the ends together. Then
make a plain circular mat to fit the
bottom, stitch It to the edging and your
little basket Is complete. The problem
of making it stand upright Ib easily
solved. Starch your whole basket very
stiffly, and pull It into shape while it is
A handle may be added, If you choose
It could be white, with a Tlbbon rosetto
of the same color as the basket. A con
trasting raatel shade, such as pink with
blue, or blue with yellow, may bo used
to show up nicely. Another good thing
about It s that you can use fraternity,
club or college colors to advantage. The
handles are mad of the plain crochet
beading, starched atlffly, or a fine wire
bound with ribbon.
Thesa charming little accessories to the
luncheon table are also uaed as favors.
They are used as trinket holders, or
miniature Jewelry cases. If you put
candy In them, a good proteotlon for the
basket Itself Is a little pad of tissue
paper In the bottom. They are so easily
made and so attractive to look at It is
too bad to spoil them by carelessness.
Milady's Face Powder
Tinted powders are seen In all tho
shops now. They are not very likely to
become a general favorite, but certain
colors are useful for those who like to
attract attentions For instance, bru
nettes of the pale type use the deep
oreamy yellows in the evening. It gives
them a touch of the Orientalism so
sought after at preaaBt The mauve
tint has been used by blondes with more
or less suoccss. It Is very seasatloaal,
giving a gray look to the faee, but when
used with the cream tint is less oa
splououa. Tho pink powder, of course, la only a
rouge, and should be uaed as such. The
Bales t posters gave us weird green and
orange, faees, ana the flckla ParUUnne
took tbaqt up. The result was colored
wigs, baarda aad face powders. The
strong electric lights of theatres aad
cafes were said to necessitate the yellow
tints. Be that as It may, we hope tfcay
won't last laag.
perreSBoaosiise vi seflarsJ laterest
la wanaia Made YtUt as printed on
IT aSSStk M WwtvurV SAW.
Present Prices of Vegetables
The higher-priced vegetables aro to bo
seen In tho market now.
Mushrooms sell at BO to 60 cents a
Jerusalem nitlchokes sell at 10 conta
j int mm so tomntoes sell at 15 cents a
California quinces sell nl 60 centR a
Cnssnba melons sell nt 10 cents a piece.
Hubbard squash sell at 25 cents a piece.
Eggplant varies In price according to
size, beginning at 20 cents.
The Woman Speaker
Tho woman speaker will always bo wit
us, according to tho joke books, but tin
public speaker Is coming Into bar own
with a vengeance. "Kreo speech" Is a
good old American Blognn, and If you
look over tho programs of a couple of
public meetings and note tho number of
women It becomes a reality.
And why not' A woman does havo
Ideas occasionally, In spite of what the
JokesmllliH stiy, nnd the nwakenlng public
Is Just giving her a chnuco to show them
Tho slinking graduation oratress hns been
tho usual riitcilou by wnicli the public
judges the women speaker, but, linpplh,
thoso davs aro past
Mrs Carrie Chapman Cntt Is one of nur
finest speakers, nnd has decided Ideas
on tho subject, too. "Women ns speakers
compare favorably with men," she says
"Their voices may nnl rarrv so well,
but they nre much more concise You
can call on a woman tmeNpoctecllv and
til.n'lt mrll... tltr .linrl.al nnu.ltiln i llf ( rt
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tho whole, I bcllevo that the woman
speaker makes the better short speech
nnd the man makes tho better long sus
Thero Is another kind of woman
speaker, tho outcome of Industrial life.
I.nngungo Is not nil rules and rhetoric at
a shirtwaist makers' strike. Tou'll real
ize It mny bo Just plain facts, If you
hear lllss Clara I.emlch speak. And this
girl at the ago of 17 spoke at Cooper
Union, precipitating a strike of 60,000
Miss Elizabeth rlynn is cnlicu tho
schoolglil orator The names of Miss
Leonard CBcllly, Miss Itoso Schnelder
mann, Miss Mellnda Scott and Miss Agnes
Nestor aro equally well known Women
spenk nowndnys because they have some
thing to say, and any one with a message
The Beauty of Beads
Tho smart woman has ono bend neck
lace, nt lenflt, to harmonlzo or contrast
very popular Just now, nnd one shop
shows a grcnt mnny black and white ef
fects The lnrge penrl necklncc, com
ing nlmost to tho knees, Is being worn.
Another la of cut Jot, breast-length, with
balls of filigree sliver of tho same size
alternating A very effective combination
Is of jet and crystal, In some cases, with
rhlncstones. Lnrgo triangles of tho Jet
nro used both dull and polished, having
bizarre rhlnestone centres nnd bold de
signs on tho chains A now Importation
Is tho bandeau of dainty black luce,
lined with white net or chiffon This Is
a substitute for tho rather ordinary blaok
velvet so much worn last season. Pend
nnts of rhlnestone or cut Jet nre fastened
on theso bandeaux, and mako a chnrmlng
suggestion for tho elderly woman.
as the ordinary face cloth. These should
never be allowed to get sour. Change
Another serious disfiguration la uneven
or badly growing tcoth. Preventive den
tistry Is the only humane kind for the
oung child. Have the teeth examined
every four months, nnd you will never
havo sleepless nights nursing abscesses
Tou owo this to tho child herself, nnd It
Is best In the long run.
A graceful carriage Is essential to the
child, because If she hasn't It In early
youth sho will have much difficulty cul
tivating It later. Don't get high-heeled
shoeB for your young daughter. The oth
ers mny wear them, but an awkward,
stilted carriage will be tho result and in
numerable corps besides. Teach her to
stand upright, to hold up her head, throw
back the ahoulders, and expand the chest.
Good health demands these precautions,
as well ns appearance.
The Ice Box
Ways of Beautifying It
common ice-box can be made a
of beauty If properly cared for.
Thero are many little things which others
have found helpful In this line.
The loe problem comes first. To have
the ice-box completely filled twice a week
has been found more practical than buy
ing a little piece dally. The full box re
tains an even temperature, and food Is
New boxes are on the market now with
facilities for placing long objects, such i
as tall water Jugs upright. The centre '
shelf Is easily removed or transferred,
like those of a bookcase, and leaves room
for watermelons, large pumpkins, etc
These are ordinarily hard to dispose of.
The use of newspapers as an Ice pre
servative Is to be recommended Do not
swaddle your loe, however, or the food
In the lower part of the refrigerator will
decompose. Simply lay them on top, so
that the Ice la not affected by the In
coming air when the door Is opened.
Do not transfer food straight from the
table. If it Is still warm, to the loe-box.
The doors must not be left open, as It
stands to reason that the air you have
bean cooling for hours escapes by this
method in a few seconds.
Insist upon the white enameled boxes.
They show the results of your efforts to
keep them clean. The dark ones assume
a worn look and have often an un
Washing soda and water should be usad.
to flush the waste pipe once or twloe a
week. Take out each rack and seald It,
drying In the open air when poaalble.
You would be surprised to see the ugly
slime which forms on the pan under
neath whan it has not been carefully
drained and scalded. A refrigerator
treated In this way will have no objec
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CONSERVATIVE FUR MODELS IN WHITE FOX AND RUSSIAN
WOMAN OUTSIDE THE HOME
In a st I'd "' contemporary art, Interest
attaches to a new periodical, tho Chinese
Itevlcw. Thero Miss J. KoVig-SIng takes a
leaf out of Mr. Marklno's book nnd has
presented English scones through a Chi
nese art medium 1 he Orlentnl art motive
Is verv strong at present.
Queen Mary, Bay? tho Queen, has set her
face against the wearing of plumage.
So well Is this known that tho less
scrupulous Madame Polncare cnrefully
removed her paraalho plumes uunng me
royol visit to Tnrls
At tho nrltlsh Medical Congress meet
ing In Aberdeen last July, Dr. Mary Bell,
In moving a resolution declaring that tho
salaries paid to medical women should bo
tho same as thoso paid to mm, said re
cently an attempt had been made by a
Govornment department to upsot this prin
ciple by the appointment of ono woman
Inspector under the Board df Control of
tho mental deficiency act. She was thank
fuNto say the two selected women had
both le-Mrncd (pending equal salary being
offered). The nssoclatlon carried tho reso
The marvelous growth of tho Lvceum
DR. M. CAREY THOMAS
President Bryn Mawr College.
Care of the Chin and Ears
Americans neglect two features, name
ly, the chin and ears, unless they are so
prominent that they can't be overlooked.
Several rows of chin will always attract
attention, and so will large, outstanding
In her recent act here Valeaka Suratt
drew much attention to her ears by
leaving her face pale and ranging the
ears a deep crimson. This Is the fashion
among Parisian women. They also pinch
the lobes of the ears frequently, to keep
them the proper shape.
Qhln bleaching is another favorite. The
feet are put Into very hot water for 10
or IS mlnutea every night. This is to
draw the blood down from the reddened
noae or chin. The massage with such
bltachas as sour milk, fruit Juice, cucum
ber or even bruised lettuce leaves always
The chinband is good for double chins.
It consists of a sort of bandage made of
rubber, linen, etc., and can be worn to
bed at night. With the aid of massage
and dieting, the flesh disappears mar
. 33c lb.
3 lbs. for 95c
Distinguished for many years for its fine flavor.
Ask for BRADFORD BLEND I Increases In
popularity daily. Whole, Ground or Pulver
ized. Every day fresh Roasted.
1520- $tifismi? Sfrrtet
Club In London, w i i -.. illatcd
branches all over lhnupe I i .Xmriir.i nnd
Melbourne, Is very astonishing. Tho Lon
don president Is Lady Trances llalfour,
dnughtcr of tho lato Duke df Argvle,
sister-in-law of Arthur Ualfour, and noted
cis n suffrage leader. The Tarls president
Is nnother grande dame, tho nccompllshcd
nnd versatile Duchess d' Uzcs, noted as a
Mis Nowmarch, an English woman, hns
done a great deal to popularlzo and Inter
pret Uitsslnii music to her own country
men. Hhe has lately published a remark
able book, "The Busslan Opera." As Mrs.
Kewmnrch Is Intimately ncqualntod with
the main critics and composers of tho
ntisslnn musical renaissance, sho Is well
qualified to do Justice to a subject of
which the outer world knows very little.
Miss Anna Holmnn, who has Just passed
her juridical examination nt the uni
versity. Is now nominated sworn attorney
of the Judge In tho district of Holt, In
Nedcnes, Norway Tho district Judges
havo to trawl the circuits, and they havo
more work than they themselves can do.
Thoy. therefore, have sworn nttorneys,
who may tako chargo for the Judge him
self, and may perform nil tho official
duties of the Judge, at the proceedings
In tho courts of law.
THE PRESENT SLENDER FIGURE
The slim, elegant figure Is evidently
hero to stav. There were rumors a short
while ago of the return of hips and other
such fancies, but tho "straight and nar
row" silhouette Is decidedly more popu
lar. This Bllmness and elegance Is often
the outcome of rigid diet and continuous
exercise on tho part of Its proud pos
sessor, but sho seldom minds If she can
make her friends envious. For those
who have not the patience to dlot, a few
hints as to clothing will help toward
acquiring the fashionable lines.
First, never wear your gowns "skin
1 tight " Unless your figure Is quite per
I feet, a tight gown only accentuates your
imperrectlons. And there Isn t one wo
man out of a hundred who CHn afford to
do this The moderately loose, perfectly
naturul gown, of simple lines and appro
prlatclj trimmed, Is suitable to any figure.
Tho baggy stylos, of exaggerated ful
ness, nre rather becoming to the extreme
thinness of early girlhood, but will be
highly grotesque If affected by a woman
who Is Inclined to avoirdupois. Use your
Judgment Just as muoh when you choose
The Arm Beautiful
The styles for wearing evening dresses,
which were shown In the shops early
this fall wero well described by the man
who called them "pneumonia models."
Sleeves nro conspicuous by their ab
sence This brings us to the subject of
Only those who have a firm, white,
well-shaped arm are justified In wearing
the sleeveless gown. The fully exposed
arm draws attention to every blemish,
and It would repay you to take the best
of care of It.
All akin disfigurations, such as moles,
warts, etc, should be removed try eleo
trolysls. The thin arm Is moat distressing to
look at. Hold hot water to the arm,
or cloths wrung out of hot water, and
then applv a good fattening cream.
Cocoa-butter, olive oil or. a good skin food
can be used
Nothing will reduce the fat arm but
massage. Remember to work upward,
paying particular attention to the wrist,
which should be made to taper.
Liquid powder Is the best to use on
the arms, as it does not fall off so
quickly as the plaid powder,
Votes for Women
From Seattle came an account of the
first vote cast by tho women of Alaska.
It has helped materially to decide the
elections by being cast on non-party lines.
The annual report of the Chief Inspec
tor of Factories and Workshops In Eng
land, read last July, presents some hope
ful features, despite iti Inevitable gloom.
LOVE, HAIR AND MARRIAGE
Jrom the beginning of romantic his
tory down to the present dav every
story of love has spoken of th'e maid
en's hair as one of her chief charms
Fair locks amply pay for the care and
time used in keeping them beautiful,
and care is all that is necessary for
developing and retaining hair beauty.
In washing the hair it is not advisable
to use a makeshift, but always use
a preparation made for shampooing
only. You can enjpy the best that is
known for about three cents a sham
poo by getting a package of canthrox
from your druggist; dissolve a tea
spoonful In a cup of hot water and
your shampoo is ready. After its use
the hair dries rapidly with uniform
color. Dandruff, excess oil and dirt
are dissolved and entirely disappear
Yemr hair will be so fluffy that it will
lgk much heavier than it is. Its
Jsjttee awi Umtj will lo Ulwht
voK while th jtiiBuitatd ustn mIm
t' hr'? which iirSwcs hair growth- k
MODES OF THE HOUR
Leniency of Fashion Allows Unlimited Individuality in
Selection of Furs This Season,
There nre so many furs worn this sea
son, all of then! fashionable, that one
qnn mako the selection a matter of taste,
letting the personal equation enter In,
without going amiss In tho matter of
White fox Is nn attractive fur and ono
that Is very becoming to girls. In the
set Illustrated a whole animal Is used
Tor the neck piece, head, tall and claws,
nnd nnothcr ono for the muff, with white
velvet nt the wrists.
The other set of fur shown is iiussian
filch. A distinctive note la given to tno
collar by using two animals and cross
ing them nt the back so that In front
both sides nro alike, heads Insldo and
Tho muff Is made of dark brown velvet
nnd the pelts Ho flat and extend from
sldo to side
Tliesp two muffs nro shaped alike They
nm long nnd supple and of tho barrel
Hh.ipe without Its stiff iiess or hardnes
f outline. As the fuf senson advances
this shnpc, which has not been carriea
for many venrs, takes a more and more
i.ni tVm VmrUinf- of erood furriers.
This Is n season when tho clovor girl
can tnnke her own set of furs. Single
;eltB can be bought at a Vrlco that will
make the set made at home cost about
om-thlrd of the price of the set pur
Tho popularity of silk or velvet In com
tlnntlon with fur makes it possible for
A Female Edison
Did you know that up to a vary few
years ago wo had a "woman Edison" T
Her name was Miss Margaret B. Knight,
and Bho was the Inventor of 87 separate
Her career was most interesting and
will bear repetition. Her birthplace was
Manchester, N. II., 75 years ngo. She be
gan her extraordinary work at the age
of 12, when sho Invented a stop-motion
arrangement to prevent tho steol-tlppcd
shuttles of tho mill looms from falling
out and Injuring tho employes.
Her brothers wero employed In a mill
nt tho time, and tho Idea camo to her on
ono of her visits to tako them their din
ner. We can thank MIbs Knight for the In
estimable benefit of tho square-bottom
paper bag. It was In 1571 that she In
vented tho machlno which manufactures
them. She also gave us a very useful
variety of tho popular tin can. After tills
wa3 accepted by several prominent can
ning concerns, her plcturo wns hung In
tho Patent Buroau In Washington.
Most of her Inventions wero confined to
rubber, cotton nnd shoo machinery, al
though sho Is bolter known by her cnglno
devices and tho Knlght-Davldson motor.
It Is Interesting to know that during tho
course of her work sho encountered nu
merous lawsuits, but sho never contested
n nnirnt without receiving tho award
She lived alono In a small cottage for 25
years, where sho spent 19 hours out of 21
In her laboratory.
your undergarments as you do In select
ing your gowns.
Gono nre tho days of the whalebone and
Its attendant evils. Tho days of tight lac
ing are no more. It stands to reason that
no amount of pulling In will produce n
graceful outline. The superfluous flesh
has to go somewhera; If you constrain It
In ono place. It comes out In another.
Tho simplification of the petticoat Is an
other step toward comfort.
There Ib no bunching nround tho waist
line nny more; petticoats fit snugly to tho
waist or nre discarded entirely. The
stocklngette, crepe de chlno or satin
bloomers are popular for evening wenr.
They aro really necessary for the strenu
ous dancing of the day, which absolutely
demands freedom of movement.
The old chemise, of bulky memory, has
also seen Its last. Tho graceful, fitted
camisole, or princess slip, made of fine
batiste, China silk or crepe de chine, Is
very popular A good Idea for the girl
who makes her own lingerie Is to go to
one of the well-known sewing schools and
have a pattern cut to fit her figure. Then
she can always be sure that her lingerie
will fit well, and her outside garments
will show the difference.
Pineapple Juice is very soothing to a
"roughened" throat. It will even cure
some mild cases of sore throat.
The habit of taking oranges atmeals
or beforo retiring Is an excellent one.
There la no better general tonic than an
When the sudden burn occurs In the
kitchen, rubbing Immediately with but
ter will help It.
If you sleep with your head on a little
slip of linen, with orris-root powder In
side, the hair will have a delightful odor.
I iNot loo Harly to f
Packed, If you like, in a Christmas box with
a dainty sachet
- Designed and made expressly for us
AJhatross Sacques, in colors, $3.75.
French Flannel Sacques, $4.00 upward.
Silk Sacques, exquisite tints, $8.00 to $18,00,
Rotldojr Negligees, Silk and Albatross, from $5.50
upward to $45.
Also of marked delicacy and style are Boudoir Caps
Camisoles for evening gowns-whlte and charming "
glors-$1.25 upward; special Underwtisti with
sleeves, $1.50 and $2.75,
Unger)e,foreign and home styles vie with each other
Silk Skirts and Silk Bloomers.
icce rwsTNUT mem
any one with the artistic vein to creaw
something dainty and original.
The "tour do con," for Instance, whlcn
Is literally nround the neck nnd no fur
ther, Is extremely smart again. It can
be made In many ways and of many ma
terials. Tho little French nosegay, how
ever, must not be omitted.
A charming ono seen In a shop recently
was made of thrco-lnch wide moire rlb
bon, Just long enough to fasten around
tho throat. A nnrrc'w bnnd of fitch wan
stitched In the centre. At tho back wero
four loops of the ribbon which were qulto
long and resembled a big bultorfly. A
pink velvet rose occupied a placo at one
Again, a band of fur, whatever one
likes, from ermine to Bkunk, encircles the
neck arid makes tho foundation for frills
at both sides of chiffon, satin, velvet, taf
feta, as the mood of tho moment com
mands. A choux of some sort, a saucy little
bow, or a flower gives a necessary touch
and fastens the tour do con effectively.
They aro warm and cozy nnd show off to
ndvantnga with tho plain walking sun.
Pf.nrVf fn InAnnm nnd mil tlf dOOrS arO
m 2-- ijr
' Collar and cuffs of white caracul used
In the plnce of .the usual organdie collars
and cuffs redeemed a very simple gown
from tho commonplace. Ono could almost
nlnco fur at random nowadajs and do-
cclvo tho public Into thinking It was care
fully planned by some clever designer.
Your Little Daughter
Arc you ruining your llttlo daughter's
looks? A great many mothers, with tho
very best Intentions in the world, either
make their daughters ugly, or worse still,
let the girls do It themselves.
Don't let your llttlo daughter sorew
her hair up. Tho pretty, natural effect
of the hair growing softly about the face
Is best suited to young girls. Girls nowa
days want to put their hair up beforo
they aro over playing with dolls. Nothing
Is more attractive than tho young girl
of 16 or 16, with tho largo stnglo
curl In the back cnught loosely with a
bow or baretto. Tho front mny bo parted,
ot In a soft, flat pompadour. How seldom
you see this most of the girls wear a
more or less correct Imitation of their
mother's coiffure, marcel wavo and all.
Curlers and tongs In fact patont wavers
of all kinds aro very bnd Indeed for tha
young child's hair. All natural, unaf
fected things arc best for children. Thoy
nre a part ot youth Itself. Fluffing the
hair gently the wrong way or turning up
the straight ends with a damp comb Is
tho only nntural way to oncouraga curls.
Never use heated Irons. Theso will surely
ruin tho hnlr, making It become brlttlo,
lifeless nnd lose Its color.
If your dauglrter'a hair falls out at an
early age seo to It at once. A healthy
child's hnlr grows qulto rapidly and ns
tho hair first Indicates tho general condi
tion, better watch It carefully. Seo that
nhe brushes It for a short while say five
or ten minutes every night, rub some
good tonic In about onco a week and
never, never let her pull It tightly baok
In any way.
Milady's Note Paper
Note paper this season shows an Infinite
variety. Thero Is a very handsome box
made of rnso-colored molro silk, filled
with tho finest white linen paper with a
fine gold edge. The whole Is very ex
quisite and ono could find Innumerable
uses for tho box aftor tho paper has been
The tango Is said to bo extinct, but Its
Influence Is still evident. Tango paper
comes In a number of brilliant colore, and
is easily distinguished by tho row of little
dancing figures across the front In bIN
houctte. Thin nlnn hns n cnlri aiIita with ll
a brond lino of rather violently contrast- ly
nig coior as n noracr. ,
"Votes for Women" campaigners havo
evidently left no stone unturned, for their h
popular slogan decorates a dainty yellow
and white pnper. Inside a small circle
on the front of this Is a sketch of tha "
demand for the
style with com
fort. Our corsetiercs
give expert help in
Van Orden Corset Cor
1204 Chestnut St., Phila.
' isa .-J f
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