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Lady Duff-Gordon Discusses the
Simple Themes of Fashion for Summer
and Describes an Odd, New
Lady duft-cordon. >i,r [Sm?.
"Lucile" of London, and foremost
creator of fashions in ihr woild, wiites
cach week the fashion article for this news
paper, presenting afl that is newest and best
in slyles /or well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishments are at Nnj.
37 and 3^ West f^y-sevenlli street. New York, and No.
1-i40 Lake Shoie Drive, Chicago.
By Lady Duff-Gordon
IN fashion's symphony for the Summer
months the theme is simplicity. Sali
ent details of t he costume suggest the
subtle charm of serenity. If thero is elab
oration, it is the elaboration of the unpre
tpnUous.^Tlje. Rilnplo theme, impressing
the note of lightness, case, comfort, with
the charm which lic-s in those effects,
may be performed with variations?and
here enters the exquisite coloratura mel
ody of the hats.
For Summer fashion's symphony does
not reflect the mind of the great Cerman
music manors, though, indeed, it might
bear the signature of Cluck or Mozart,
vvno could not resist Jhe joyous inspira
tion of Fragomird or Wattcau, whose*
brushes appealed to the eye as do the
flutes and violins in tho ear. Yes, for
variations on our thcino of simplicity, let
us consider !h<- possibilities o? hats ?
modest, tjnip'e. retiring, but none the
less potent hats.
Here 1 give you a hint of such varia
tions?with ar-vtrong note of contrast.
The latter is the bold yet gracefully dar
ing shape of black velvet, softened by
Its generous aigrerte plume. IVrhaps you
?would not call thin a modest hat, yet it
Is not ornate In construction you will
ceo that It is simpler than one or two
of Its companions on this page which
Beem to proclaim t.ieir simplicity with
Infinite emphaeis. It is a bravura passage
that redeems* the variations from insip
idity, and the beauty h'Te and tljere who
can wear it with becoming unconscious
ness will earn the gratitude of her sisters
?whose calculated demureness as to head
dress is enhanced thereby.
Never before has the dainty white pur
ity of tho sunbonnet of our great grand
mothers been revived with a stronger ap
peal to the judicious eye. Here 1 show
it to you in the n-th power of its charm.
There Is so little stiffness in its structure
that its oudines instantly conform to the
individuality of the fa^e which it softens
so indescribably. Just tho simplest of
frames, and a bit of chiffon or sheer mus
lin gathered and ruffled and stitched ac
cording to your fancy?not forgetting the
ample strings loosely bow.tied beneath
More elaborate, yet chwrm..,giy simple
A Krai Modesty Hal ? Charm
inul\ Simple, of While Satin.
Lace and Ribbon with a
Hunch of Satin Flowers in
Front. Lucile Model
and nr t i he flattened to(|ua*snapcrl
lint 01 white . ;itin, lace and ribbons, with
its bunch <if satin flower* in front. Mere
is modesty in n hat which is to bo
achiovrd only with th* it id of consum
mate artistry. Xoto how hnely the ma
terial is shirred about the wires of the
shape?at the edpe of the brim, at the
band and at the crown, leaving the gath
ers hot wen;: to fonn themselves into a
graceful fullness. There is labor here,
and fine needlework:; but. that labor
might well be termed a labor of love,
for the result certainly is a "love of a
A subtle variation on the hat theme is
the fascinating ear net. You see here a
pair of them, and the head to which they
Copyright. 1016, by the Star Compai
A Contrast?A Sun Bonnet Made By Lady Duft
Giordon for Herself and a Rather Sophisti
cated hat of "Bold Yet Graceful Flaring Shape
of Black Velvet, Softened by Its Plume."
arc applied, Rains a seductive witchery
thereby. Without at ail belonging to the
family tree of hats, yet they produce a
result more hat-like on original lines than
almost any other conceivable head-dress
device that fashion has authorized.
Thin silk net discs supported on a
hoop of wire and fastened to the coif
fure on each side of the head with gold
hairpins, these ear nets form a unique
and lovely frame to a face that Is not too
pronounced in its main features. Upon
the face of the net is a conventional em
broidered design in gilt threads?just a
touch of yellow metal color, a hint, per
haps, of their barbaric origin. These sil
ver and gilt, ear nets certainly are nofc
iy. CSreat Hrltain Rights Reserved.
The "Ear Nets"?Discs of Lace or Net in Pastel Shades Held in Plae*
with Gold Hairpins.
hats, but. their prftponce at once recon
ciles the beholder to a hat's absence.
The display 1 am giving you on this
page really araouuts to the headings of
a classified index to the season's hat
book, leaving out those conventional
forms and materials which are always
with us. The chastely simple and charm
ing sunbonnet stands for the whole spe
cies of fluffy, chlffony headgear, in a gen
eral way. Flufl'iness in hats, however, is
not a prominent note in this season's hat
symphony* The present mode in cos
tumes for the street and the garden party
does not encourage vagueness, lack of
form in the crowning touch of the toi
lette. Originality and precision of de
sign, with prodigality of labor in the con
struction, are qualities which distinguish
the present vogue as to hats.
A revival of silk fringe for hat garni
ture is noted as one of the results of an
earnest search for something new.
Fringes are draped from the crown and
from the brim of large forms and small
forms in a great variety of designs. The
device can be used to add an effect of
novelty quite often, but aB a substitute
for originality ab initio it cannot be said
to be successful.
Leghorn" in its natural tone combined
with velvet is a good deal in evidence,
with some really tine results. One of
these is the velvet tam surmounting a
sailor brim. Theae brims are also of
mllan or hemp, usually narrow and some
times closely curled.
The season is not one naturally, to
favor the choice of small hats, yet th?
cheapeau of turban-like lines finds majiy
fair adherents?women and girls whos*
personal stylo warrants them in effort*
to appear "chic." For women of the op
posite type Paris is sending out some ef
fective Summer models on the cartwheel
order?some of the brims measure twen
ty-four inches in diamter. As the seaf
son advances into Autumn It is quite
likely that these large shapes will ap
pear in the majority, except where the
taste for genuine creations on less strik
ing lines predominates.
Everything considered?the Individual
predelections of women of fashion and
r.y own sense of the "eternal fitness of
things"?this is the day or the modest,
unpretentious hat. It is appropriate for
the other sort to have gone out with
tho abomination of trailing skirts and
exaggerated waist lines. The elaborate
headgear which these seemed to call for
^ are not suited to the present charming
and rational models. The designer of
hats should take a lesson from the boot
maker, who, inspired by the new oppor
tunity to diBplay his art to the multitude#
inr every fashion's thoroughfare, has sur
passed himself beyond all natural ex
One thing is certain, the day is past
when women of sense and taste will
carry unnecessary weight upon their
heads. Since the hair is her "crowning
glory," woman will refuse to hazard its
health and beauty by making It beat