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The Salt Lake tribune. (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, October 13, 1912, Magazine Section, Image 33

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045396/1912-10-13/ed-1/seq-33/

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THE SALT LcAPnu TRIBUNE, SUNDAY MOB-NTXG. OCTOBER 13, 1912.
j j ' ' '"' '
SSI 1 iH
,B" ' .fife... .Wimfe&Wlt4HiW'
ri tev sssf m Mi
I Mir-
?SS By LADY DUFF GORDON ("Lucile")
bwiS v13 o tho mont c1111111"2 act" :
is ; v J rc3SC3 or hom 1 fur'
iDjfi'S - nlshed wardrobes is Mius .
eflfc'S BUlIo Burko, the little coBiiiopolituu
looks ln ii8hiona of any
cUme or tIrae- !
i cWF, ' uibb BuftQ im3 the cliic most de-
B 8lrei by Pariaiennes and all well-
W1 dreEEed women. She bus Titian hair,
bIuB eyes and fair, rony skin that
15 ,ead themselves to nearly any color. ,
id tkjj j She is, Indeed, a most satisfactory'
H 1 llLtle Person to dress, knowing as
J 1XQ dileB what Hbe wants' aud belng
'3 amiabillty and gratitude theniBelvos
rLd . lfc waa a pleaauro to supply her
a,Bd : ?1Ul the uiarL costumes she wears
P14 it" : in her latest Guceeos "The 'Mind the
ereC U . iaf Girl," Her entrance gown, the
caU5'1 ' filrIiBn afteraoon costume which Bho
V1 ti f been wearing ivbile Bho posed
id i tor ber luieaL portrait, is one of the
itf"1 J?03t attractive o her robes. Its
i Iz-B are of the alralgbt, shoulder
ifli fjl u 0 honi Bort. tbat give added girl
ttdt, f iBhneus to a girlish figure, and sub
,j tract yearB from a matronly one.
m i W,B9 Burke tnakeu hor entrance up-
te the BtaE0 in her now play, in
111 la ' tb!3 Bown of straight lines and
lPlL Vd - E,rtisbess and tho audience notes
. a PleaBed mood that it is of "all
id vor laco" of 3lmple, conventional
in' rfJ p Pattern. It conformo to the mode by
giving a flounced effect In BtraiSttC
lines without added breadth to the
flgure. The flounce is scant and set
upon another, each being about
olghteen inches deep and no fuller
than the skirt where it la gathered
upon tho hips. Whilo two and a half
yards wide, It is so soft and clings
ho closely to the flguro that the
skirt Eeems scarcely wider than the
hobble of the paBt two seasons.
It is made over a slip of the same
froBtlikc whiteness. A charming
llttlo white satin peasant bonnet,
adorned with a garland of rosebuds,
completes the costume.
When she returns to her home,
after the birthday dinnor given on
the stage in her honor, eho wcacs
over her white evening gown of
chiffon and crystal embroidery a
cloak of white cblfton Unod with the
eame materJal and bordered with
satin and fringe. The neck, front
and large, flowing sleeves of the
evening cloak are bordered wlp
Hitiu fringe. Croaa rows of tlio
fringe are arranged m geometric do
eign across the skirt of the coat,
meeting tho border of satin In
front. The gown and cloak give
excellont hints to the young girl for
her afteruoo- and evoning attire,
Uils Autumn. . it,o
Keeping In mind the fact that
this Is to be largely a whit and
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, ano
foremost creator of fashions in the world, -writes each week the
fashion arlicle for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for wcll-drcsscd women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment bring3 her into close
touch with that centre of fasluon.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City
pink season Miss Burke's costumes
are in those colors. Th9 gownB are
of white and the garniture almost
wholly of pink. This 1b true even
to the negligee which Bho wears
in the mornin-, white chiffon over a
foundation of palo pink, like the in
ner part. of a shell or the softly
tinted heart of a blush rose.
Though so early in the new
Autumn season certnin notes have
been definitely Bounded and certain
lines drawn as to the modes that
will prevail.
The dircctolre influence is, per
haps, tho dominant one, while the
Louis XV inspiration is also still
evidenced in the much modified pan
nier skirt draperies, though nowa
days (and nights) the said draper
ies arc only permitted to suggest,
in the most stub tie and therefore
most becoming way, those puffs
about the hips that once distorted
the most graceful figure.
SometimeB It Is true yon will see
' and there iB Just the chance that
you yourself will be induced to wear
an evening dress whoso tunic
folds of net will be of quite billowy
fullness, but this because they
are also quite transparent. The
slender and straight outline of the
fituire and the underskirt will never
be lost sight of for a moment.
By tho way, too, some of these
iitenhanous panniers are being made
-ith long, fur-bordered slits at
lar side which have something
of the quaint effect of huge and un-
ex?tethenLwetaro destined to see
-m0BiucU more, In fact-of the
pleated skirt which came to ub
singly and somewhat nervously in
the late Spring and early Autumn,
but is now arriving boldly and in
positive and pretty battalions! When
well-made, these skirts can be very
attractive, but real and speoial Bklll
is demanded for their making if
they are to give the new freedom
of movement and, withal, retain
the old narrow silhouette.
As to our waist line it is undoubt
edly to move down a little and pos
sibly also to decrease In circumfer
ence by an inch or so if, that is, we
are to accept the guidance of an
impressive number of the new mod
els, where the waist is encircled and
accentuated by deep belts and
closely swathed sashes. But also,
and because fashion is so wise now,
that she manages to be all things
to all women, there are many
rather hlgh-waisted and other almost
waistless gowus, while certain of
the more extreme evening models
are designed to be worn without
any corsets at all.
I note too and deplore a ten
dency in some quarters to restrict
our prized and pretty neck-freedom
by the bondage of hlgh-folded
collar-bands and cravats, but still I
have sufficient confidence In the all
conquering and charming low collar
to believe that no such attempts will
be able to diminish the number,, and
the enthusiasm, of lis wearers
Very long sleeves (glove, fitting
from the exceedingly low shouldar
line to the wrist or the knuckles)
SSm? a fGatUre of Aut"Sn
eownst yjgj
White Satin.
Cava- ' ts.?J ' ? 03 ir"
COPYRIGHT A. DJ?o.- L
THE MOST FAMOUS ZlVMGBMmY
No 195Do You Know.? I
3y Mma. LINA CAVALIERI
COME, girls, whatever your age,
for it is pleasaut to keep up
the illusions of girlhood,
though hair be white and skin tend
ing to the formation of hundreds of
fine point lines, draw your chairs
here on the hotol piazza and let us
chat of newest things in biiy cul
ture. -
Do you know lliat ftiv wrist talk
no more of facial massage? No,
that is quite obsolete, really far out
of date, you know. Now it is face
manipulation, or feature building.
Some term it face llfiiug. What is
it? It is massage Improved, amend
ed, rendered far more bcieutiflc than
before.
You didn't know that your face is
Inclined to slip, did you? It is. and
It is as aerious for your face to slip
far on 'he toboggan slide of time
as it is for the leet to slip on an
Icy pavement in midwinter. And
face manipulation or feature build
ing work hard and successfully
against th'- tendency. Tho cheek
muscles are the chlof sinners In
this matter of muscle slipping. The
heavy, flat musclcB of the cheeks
begin tc slide downward, and unless
their course -J arrested the lower
part of the face grows heavy. Th
chin sinks with Its own weight and
the fine, clear cut line of the lower
jaw is" lost. In sagging muscles aud
in unwelcorno and unbecoming fat.
The face that iB falling must be
lifted up. Therefore muEt there be
strong, heavy, upward strokes from
chin to ears, strokes so strong that
the muscles tingle and the blood
rushes In a flood to the face. If the
linos about your Hps are growing
deep and gaahllke it is because the
cheek muscles are slipping down
the sides of the face toward the
chin. Strengthen them by strong,
heavy, upward strokes.
Have your eyes begun to look
Biinken in n lake of dark, unhealthy
looking skin? That 1b because the
cheok muscles are drawing away
from them and not giving them their
needed support. Strong, slrapllke
movements of all the fingers from
the inner part of the nose along the
upper cheekbones will stimulate tho
muscles and make thorn firm. So
for the perpendicular lines between
the brows that show eyestrain, or
worry, brush these away by deep,
strong, quick strokes of tho fingers.
Thie, raj' friends, ia the face build
log, or hoisting, for which a great
deal that Is favorable may be said.
Do you know that tho large, loose,
lazy muscles of the abdomen that
sag and give the tigure a vulgar, un
lovMy aspect, can be made firm
aud hard In a most commonplace
way? Doctors have noticed that the
washer woman never shows these
sagging muscles that so detract
from the beauty and elegance of
the figure. Why? Because she
bloopB over the washtub hour after
hour and day after day, and this
stooping hardens tho muscles.
Musclos In a woman's body that
are seldom used and so very weak
are those of the back. Gardening
develops them. Tho chest is cx
panded and the lungs enlarged, the
blood purified, by gardeniag. It
were well for us all to take to th.9
garden.
The morning is the time when we
aro most liable to be lazy and to
shirk our exercises. Yet they should
be taken beforu our bath. Did you
know that there aro running ma
chines that cm be folded up and
hung on your bathroom wall, that jH
taken down, take little space on the
floor, and yet 'jy hlch you can
have a vigorous run. equal to a
couple of miles before your plun$
and breakfast?
Beauty Questions Answered
A. B. C. sends this apparently
characteristic letter; "I don't
know whether you will regard me
as an intruder or not, as I belong to
the opposite sox. But if you will
answer this question I will never
consider myeelf capable of thank
ing you. I f.m six feot one, medium
build, but with a voice like a baby,
which embarrasses me very much.
I have taken two years' singing
lessons, practicing the low notes,
without benefit. I wish I could kill
the voice, stamp it out of ex
istence." I suspect that your trouble Is in
large par' timidity. The voice re
flects the oharacter. Cultivate cour
age. Practice deep breathing. Be
encouraged by the example of
Demoithenes. He had a weak voice,
an Impediment of speech; yet he
used to fill his mouth with pebbles
and go out to the seashore and talk
agalnBt the thunder of the waves.
F-xerclBe determination and cour
age will eventually encourage a
weak voice. Go Into the woodB or
beside the seashore and rehearse
that voice.
F. AL writes nie: "I have read
your beauty hints in tho Sunday
newspaper for a long time and
havo greatly profited by them.
Now I am asking you to please
nelp me. yk
"I am a young girl of nineteen IH
and for about two years have been
jurling my hair. Lately I have
noticed that my hair is lifting In
front and is getting very thin.
Please advise me what to do."
I take it for granted that you
mean you have been curling your
hair with hot Irons. First atop that
practice, which sooner or later
ruins the hair. If you have been
using curl papers stop that , No
matter if your hair does look die
rvderly while adjusting Itself to
new conditions, don't touch your
hair with Irons again. Be resigned
to straight hair, which so many
pra.'sr. Massage the wholo scalp
dally with fingers that have been
dipped Into lanollne, but massags
longest and most vigorously with
larjullne. After a time let this treat
ment alternate with any good
quinine tonic jH

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