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Wit THE SALT LAKL TIilBTXJi, SUNDAY MO I? XING, NOVEMBER o, 1012. K
ADY DUFF-GORDON, ilic
famous "Lucile" of London,
g and foremost creator of fa-
DB .Kens in the world, writes each week
BH the fashion article for thl newspaper,
gUjEH 'presenting all that is newest and beat
Wjtm in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordons new Paris
BH establishment brings Her into close
HH touch with that centre of fashon.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American
Wm fsUblishment is at NJ- 37 and 39
H West Fifty-seventh stTeet. New York.
H Bv LADY DUFF-GORDON
HAVE some news for you this
week about next season's fash
MMt tonB, but before T give you this
HH Utile peep into the future I want to
bring" before you. If I can. a mental
tmW picture, at any rate, of the prcaent
Hf mode as displayed to absolute per-
HH fectlon by a certain lovely Amerl-
can girl (thero was no mistaking
HH her nationality, oven though. I never
HH heart her speak whom I saw and
mm dm I red whole-heartedly at tho
RUz the other night. She was In
very truth "divinely tall" and fair,
and her willowv flsure was jus:
ewathed in fiosh-colorod chiffon
HH over, of course, nlnon and char-
meuse of the same delicately sug
Restive shade, though of theBo
inner fabrics there was no outer
cign. so cleverly was tho most
filmy of the three materials ar
ranged. It v.-as, in fact, tho su
preme triumph of the apparently
W unstudied 6lmplicily. which, as I
B tr know, demands the greatest
Hl skill for Us nir-cc36ful intcrprcta-
Hl tlon. nd furthermore, being wise
abovo most wom" this beautiful
B creature had crowned her flesh-
colored robe zi J hex fair, smoothly
curled hair with an enormous
mm black hat; alRo and absolutely un-
trimmed, so th-. there was nothing
mm to break Its m..rvellou5 "line." For
m9 c. ;nents sho had Just a rope of
mm perfect pearls hanging almost to
W her knees, and ono hugo single
mm poarl ring, and, perhaps, I need
tmm hardly tell you. that her shoes and
M Blockings wore hIbo flesh-colored
mm tn tint and respective!" charmeuso
mm and eUk as to tholr fabric. The oor-
mm sage of tho dress was arranged In a
mm deeply cut V about the neck, while
H 1 flleevea continued their shirred
mm Boflnese of chiffon far ovor the
mm delightful costume so that It 5
J might be Bhown In my story this
H JnLJ am sending you plc-
mm ture of three costumoa that are
mm f Just ac perfect in their way as the
H ? 1 have ust descrlbed. As yon
mm already know, gray-green and
mm green-blue are favorite comblna-
mm Hons of mine. One of my Paris
H costumers tells mo that green must
mm It 107 , scot" lor. I always
mm Ilia a. touch of It on everything I
MM eJL' en ,B m raaecot
H cfIoT; the afternoon gown I ara
mm showing you must be my "mascot"
WMW dress, for It la created of sreon.
mm oiue crepo charmeuso, the heavy
B f tlmL draP almOBt
mm wiwout offort. Tho skirt, as you
jH wm see la. Is one piece. Tt Is made
mm or tho flfty-fonr-Iach-wido fabric
H YV rn
w-K-1 51 Is .
I 1 11 Jiik Ji jiFJiwU I r
ERI todar Sivcs her readers a shopping
IVl fiuidc' Evcry woman vho is purchasing her Winter
wardrobe or who is buying clothes for the family will
be benefited by reading her advice on buying the Winter out
fit. She shows how the eternal principles of beauty and the
uplifting principles of art may be applied to the commonplace
fact of shopping. Having read this article no woman need make
the mistake of buying an unbecoming hat or a gown that is
better adapted to her neighbors than herself.
By MME. LINA CAVALIERI.
IXWT jHUjYj you nre buying your
Winter wardrobe think
V less of the fashion plates
displayed by your tailor and
eoutouriere than of your own gtylc.
Svery one has a stylo of her own,
end that is good style for her. One
authority on woman's dross even
goe so far aa to urge women to
know themselves so well as to dfv
tide whether In their composition
mind or soul or body dominate.
"For," Hccordlug io this lecturer on
womanly beauty, "each of those
three parts of your composition Is
represented by u color. If you are
a woman of intense spirituality you
ebould wear muck yellow, for that
represents tho foul. Should you Uxui
more to the material side o life yon
re best represented by red. If you
are one of the growing nnny of the
Intellectuals, this authority advise
wearing much of the mental color,
which Is blue." It occurs to me to
Inquire whether that Is tho reason
why women of strong mentality are
often referred to as "blue stockings."
I do not wholly agree with thl
If, for Instnnc", you ntv red
woman, why uot wear coiwWerablH
yellow? 1 1 win give jou a mort-soulful
aspect, and. if our manners re
ct upon our characters, why should
not colors7 Wearing the soul colnr
axy develop latent iul uualitlu 2
Or the red. womau, by wearing much '
blue, might, to use a term of the
istage. "convey au illusion" of
rrreater mentality than she has, and
perhaps stir that part of her self to
It is an Interesting theory,' but
may, pcrnaps. be pursued to the
point of attenuation. One quality I
like so rreatly In you Americans la
that you are practical, and theories
to tenuous a this - hnvc quoted
move you to laughter. I recall that
when one of your authors wrote of
the color of individual auras and
talked of a "pink personality," Bhe
greatly lntcreated tuc humorists. I
tenve with you this theory to smile
at or to adopt as you like.
But In whnt I shall any next I am
most gravely serious. That is that
in selecting your Winter wardrobe
I would have you think far more
about your Individuality than about
the passing fashlou. I do not know
what will be the caprice In furs. I
do not care. Being tall and slight I
sball choofe longhaired furs, as tho
6llver fox. becauae, to use n Amerl
cuUsm, I can "carry them woll."
But if you who read this are short,
and especially If you arc short and
stout, wear short-skinned furs, ni
mink and seal and sable. If you can
afford them, for long-haired fura
will render you out of drawing, ab
surdly costumed .
Wblto choos!t:s your hats ani '
wraps, your gowns anil gloves, 1-j
for once self-centred. Self-centred-ness
is excusable when one is shop
ping. It is in tho direction of
economy, for if we think steadily of
ourselves we will not purchase a
fur coat in which our sister looks
adorable but ourself ridiculous, and
wo will not order a gown that will
prove so unbecoming that wo will
give It avray after once or twice
Keep In mind, nfter your own in
dividuality, certain art princples
that apply to drcas. This Is a good
one us to color. "Drcs3 up to your
eyes, your hale or your complexlou."
Permit me to explain. If a girl
has brown eyes sho may not always
wear brown gowns. But she can bo
exceedingly careful to wear no tint
that will make her creamy skin look
Fallow. For her creamy shades are
becoming, because they harmonize
with her complexion.
If a girl has red hair sho will he
wise If ehe wears shades, regardless
of tho tint of the moment, that will
throw tho hair into relief as blue,
or green, or black. If a woman
has Irish cyce that fascinating
mixture of blue and gray, that holds
In It3 depths much of infant Inno
cence yot much of worldly wisdom,
deep eyes that fascinate because
tbey are Inscrutable she will look
her best in gowns tlizc match her
eyes, the same indeterminate blue
Think of yourself steadily and not
tenderly in the selection of stuffs.
If you are thin and active, soft ma
terials, as chlffoD3. crepe de chiue?,
IiSfot weight silks, will ha becoming.
H you are of heavier habit, heavier
ellks and broadcloths are more tix
prcsslvo ami so More becoming.
The dividing line between tho
skirt and bodice Is ugly, if y0
cannot hnvc a one part dross, then
hide the dividing llt by a girdle.
If you arc stout, lot tht girdle be
of the fjimu shade Had material na
, the cown. If net dander, you mn7
At the Left, My "Mascot'l Gown-A Chic Afternoon Cosiume of
Green-Blue Crepe Charmeuse, Showing PIy New Creation, the
Lace Collar and Apron. Abovo Afternoon Costume: of
Green Satin Charmeuse, Suitable for the Races. The Cutaway
AtLcHd fclr f S1rt in the F'ront is Very Nov and Most
Chic. The Small Hat typifies the Simplicity of the Coslume.
ill ' mm
(g) A D
Collars and Aprons of m.
Gold Braid and OthejP
Striking Effects UseJ
Tho Army Gown. Blue Serge
Walking Costume. Gold
Braid and Gold Buttons Give
ihc Martial Touch. The Hat
Is of Gold Velour with Vieu
not be of too glaringly the opposite.
Remember that s-tifl effects are al
ways Inartistic, so avoid the appear
ance of helug trussed up. as a fowl
in tile oven soldier on parade.
I'or this reason shun light sleeve?.
Uoht glovc. or skirt so heavy or
narrow rbat they make your gait an
awkward one. I am clad that fash
Ion permits the wer.ring of loose
gloves. They give onse to the hands
and are far rcoro graceful than the
tlsht ones thnt gave the hand Lhu
appf-aranco of being stuffed into It.
Vhcn Belecllng yor.r hat. a bit of
brilliant cc.- may be introduced:
but lot it uot be dlrcctl- above th
f"ci- for It will give to th,. face the
Illusion of be'njr pale, whether It Is
Beauty Questions Answered
i Ain quite young and my hair 3
turning gray," writes P. G. "Will
yosi please advise me what to do?"
Take .!ie best measures to keep
the hend ccol end moiot. Those best
measures, to my mind, are to use an
Ice cap when the scalp Is hot and
fevered and tc massage It frequent
ly, using a cooling hair tonic, pref
erably one of the quinine or jabor
C D'i plnlct Is as follows: "i
would be ery much obliged If you
would Jell me cf- anything to "de
velop my body. I am painfuiiv thin.
I ant nineteen years old. and I've
tried c::ercie I've oaten only what
would mafce mo fal. and I am Just
as thin as before. 1 am never ill
Would a lotion of some sort mako
A Ictlcn alone would no "mako
ycy.fat." but an emollient In con.
r.ectlon with other treatment should
f.elp to add flesh to your figure.
NiaGsafiing vfth olive oil Is 0n
of the best fattening agents. Tha
ell Is absorbed by the porejana In
thlc way fcecs the Impoverished tis
sues, But I vould not be content
with outward treatment. I would
take the olive oil internally. If it Is
unpleasant fcr you io take a tablc
spoenfuf once or twice a day, morn
Ing and evening, use It plentifully
in your food. Use It in salad dress
Ing and In cooking. I suapect that,
though, as you say. you navo rJcd
exercise and have eaten only what
would "make you fat." you have
not tried long enough If you ara
by nature rnrf hcrcdlt thin your
.SK will, of course, be more diffl.
and will require more time.
Bu. dnnKing much unskimmed milk,
eating much butter and plenty 0f
tweets and starches vill n time
luxe the effect of f Iceh-maklng.
Sleep more than you have been do-i
Ir.g and exercise less. Above all '
cultivate a placid, philosophical die-1
'Will yon kindly tell me of a rem-1
poy for blackheads?" writes V M
"I .bRu, a ,lot ot lhem ou my no'se
and chin. I have squeezed them out, I
In creating a mV&
will aee, this fiSHfirf
eeml-pannler effect E'
I wlah that I mi2btT!
of the back0
-oped through a SLwi'
buckle juat abUVkafe1
The bodice Is a ..Mtf
my peasant model Ym7mW
that there are to'arnKKf
turn hack cuffs 0f n'Hmwf!L
are the only flnlri, JS
1 uke particularly fhtemV1
apron of cream-colored yEf?
collar and aproa and iK v.
eatl 6kIrt ar3 PiP6d vUCS,'
One of the tenets a XS
Is that tho girdle mMfti
enhances, or mars the mff "
rlrdlo on this coituma hWCn l
In design. It Js m dWC
flowers In shades of n,yBS!m
And still another jrrmySlr
gown is here pictured. mBfJ.
ond costunio is moro roraBSfr:
tho first It Is of uUBdSfi
and Is suitable for tli sRlJ;
any in town formal ocezjiKfr
, skirt Is shirred at t&elXiuP
the back and this cdg D
with brown skunk for. -WE -t
The front fastening It Sftf
Is being accepted by iIl(5Hcf
lennes. The skirt Is TtrrjiflSpii
green satin buttons SmTr
loop6 aro Its only decanSBlr
this coat the sleeves iwliKT
row and set in several lacBt x
the shoulder line. TkTlHj''
the sleeve Decessarllj jBLki
smrt mouaquelalre eMBL
Tho girdle Is esqnMiAjN'f
Oriental. The beads mm?.
colored and iridescent imLL.
used touches of cbcnlsTKM.
ery also. Tho long uaBlrtT
green silk. Btlf
The third costume of IBm
and gold braid I ciD siHhk,
go'n. The front of lb hEM
severely lain. The back tfWt1,1
just nbove the anklet ThKi
of gold braid with Its tWi
and gold ta and thi jK
gold buttons ara mm'
touches to this severe coBfcoc
course, a tiny laco cojB-.
and cuffs to match
In this costume the ir3j"Bd
four inches below tho CE
Of course, tho hat u tT
simple. It i3 of pale pHf
e.nd the military PompaM
vlcux blue. wb.
"rkZt No. 198-How "to "Cho
Living Beauty. Your Winter Vardroi
Ib uK ?ar n slrtllc or different
sonde than your gown.
coiitm -i J U ,n,H5 for a fc'w SBK-'ons
en-,t! P'l,;aik', 1111(49
a. ess becauso they conuIstBntlv ro.
low those of the figure. For this reas.
pn a gown 'vhoso proonunced lines
iro .oin th,. shoulder, the draporv
curvmsr 6Ilshty at the wl!
wnce and .eauty io the figure
Iilmn.ings that run around the
"Sure alway. jack beauty, and if of
contra-tlng material they have a
iodicrous Llfect. TJ:. high girdle
ves nn appearance of greater U.j.grh
o th(. hmbs. The girdle. If not of
tiie same color and materia!, should
but it Is of no use. Th9?cB
Don't be chocked. my rfH-Vlfc
tell you thst If bMttkW
it is beenuae you do
face quite clean. Hcmovit., .
HcadB by steaming yovr t'BllT
tcrubblng with a brush "F
you have poured Osn lJ.Bjt
the acne has been (M'flp
cut the disfiguring dots hW1
the face with cold eream. jSjwu
the blackheads return, KjEK
ov.'n fault, for thoy are 'fc14
that has settled into KVn
There are no blackhead
fectly clean face. M
DO YOU KNOWWi
; wireless wtvos Iravtlllnf B1
ilic earth, und It roar
r'inltc posalbla In time to K
iiy radio-telegraphy iron PItl
.New Zc.-ilund. l'roftsiar f1tfBt
j JJ-vporlmcnts are fclxif c03l
j tlu- present time at t& P'
, v. orUa ul thc Mtirconl CompWWI. T
' leas tcicpnony. ar.J a?'liHCL!
IdLstmicu of imarly two 633Efe
; mis. bvon iouaa possible. 'HBjf
I In the United SsUtu DJ"''Biit
' the students chooic tb tt
'about fourteen years ?,Jmj'
! never Have a chance
Later on tny become ait"mmfi?
i I'rofi&sui Moore. .Rl
; or cn i r.oet iwriooi
u and clchtecn Jl',jmmi
Edinburgh. I--.CO0 'rf'75S52!
of vociitlonal trululn? or mm y
cr.tlon. rE si,
! Ton years nS 19
or tb- wliol" ""M,! JZrttk
oOO.OUo quarters: tw f imSF
oned 4!2.00U.OOOJl'te; flSfe
The io.. ofS1d7l!k14fe
amounts to cometnm- iCr"
n. year. -ljJ'