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THE ' WASHINGTON 'HERALD,UWAY,DECEMBER 3, 1911.
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. AKIS Special Correspondence. Ball
gowns, reception frocks, toilets for the
opera and theafer, stunning ornaments
and beads for the hair, hats for roor
dressy occasions than the general after
noon tea, are all Important questions of
dress just at this moment, and there is also
the subject of the evening cloak, for
which there are a lot of new models.
Ball gowns are always the least difficult of any to
be considered, and especially this year, when almost
any style is considered good, and there Is the greatest
latitude In the matter of materials and trimmings
Naturally there are some odd combinations, as well as
those that are new and original, for It is the end and
aim of most of the great dressmakers to attract atten
tion to their particular wares, and the only way In
which this can be accomplished Is to strike some note
that is out of the ordinary
Some of the novelties of this season are the combi
nations of plush and chiffon, velour delaine and chif
fon, and metalized tissues with plush, all of which suc'i
establishments as Beer, Paquln, Redfern, Zimmerman,
and a few others have brought out Then there is the
double skirt, feather boned and outstanding, which Pol
ret Is responsible for, and the character costumes whlr'i
are to be seen at Bechoff-Davld'a and at Paquln's also
Plush is the popular material of the winter long
haired, short haired, striped, and plain and It Is used
for entire frocks, and for trimmings, too The long
napped plush is the one most frequently chosen for
evening gowns, and although many are seen In all sorts
of delicate tints white is really universally worn.
Beer Is making frocks of this material which are
draped Tilth black chiffon, and in some cases wit
black Chantlllv lace. The plush always forms the f
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Tailored suit of maroon velour delaine. On
each side of the 6kirt is a trirnming of coarse braid
of a little darker shade-, put on crosswise.- Long
grellots finish this braided panel. The buttons on
"both skirt and coat are of dark brown nacre with
rims of champagne color. The coat opens over a
very long waistcoat of green yellow silk faced cloth
embroidered in soft colors. The undersleeves are of
the same edged with dark"brbwn velvet. The sides
of the coat are braided and finished with grellots to
match the skirt. The collar is of braiding, grellots
and velvet. Model from Brandt.
debutante gown made of white silk voile over
liberty satin. It is trimmed with imTd green
velvet ribbon, which is xun through large button
holes which are worked into the material. At the
back the ribbon draws the train in slightly. The
entire bodice is covered with an exquisitely fine
embroidered mull fichu and the velvet which is run
through this holds it in place over the'shouldera
Bow of velvet directly in the center of the back with
long ends. In front is fastened a cluster of velvett
moss roses with foliage. Model from DrecolL
Costume of black ribbed plush made with a
narrow skirt -trimmed at the bottom with a shaped'
bias band stitched on. The coat fits loosely and is
very long in the.backt within two or three inches of
ine DOiiom 01 mc store. , i ne waist line u vjuic
what mounted. The waistcoat is of white velvet
and so is the-Uning of the turnover collar of the
coat. The buttons which trim this and the large
buttons on the,coatare of old silver enameled in
- scarlet. The narrow belt in front is of scarlet un
dressed kid. The blouse worn with this costume js
of' white satin combined with .scarlet chiffon, the
- chiffon being' used in a square collar over .the
shoulders as a part-of the cuffs and for the folded
Jlt.. It is a -very effective toilet'. Model -from-
" ftft" ;MargaineLacroix.( '; . " '
hips, leaving a space across the front of the, skirt of
the pluth undraped.
On the bodice, which lay tha way "was satin and not
plush, the same arrangement of drapery wia observed.
foi except in ,the models being shown for young girls
trains have regained their supremacy. The trains are
not long, and they are extremely scant, but In such
soft clinging material a plusb. they Jiang delightfully.
One Beer model was ivory tinted, and showed aa ab
solutely plain skirt, apparently, seamless and ending In
. nnintnrt train Ir or eleht inches on the floor. Over
this was draped wtout looked lllca a ChanUlly lacs shawl. the aklrt and the slagla eat at the waist line In back
or at least a portion of one, for th remainder served were rasteatd wltli feeaattful eraawamta ef Uver set
for the drapery of the bodice. The Ions; pointed e with. real, stones. There was ao trafca 'of, aolor aboat
fell la the back Just about to the floefj. walla two olfeer the gown ecatpt a reree vlvet Sewer f a wewfler
endt Vre caught together at the kstea and two more ful oraae aha at tae left of ike bolce. ,
at the waist The lace tmi drawn la eleaely arer the 3fot "ot the nweet eveabw rpw, jiaaHer what
Ujelri material, stat&v long-lines and a great .deal of
drapery. Some arequlteiOreCIanln teeir "style, -while
others aro '. oriental She fanrtcs being 'wound .and
twisted about tfie figure In o. tnost marrelous manner
one point falllnr In the back" over the hlghv belt and and one that la almost Impossible-. o deecribe. This
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the others beinc lost under folds or piusn ana iace in
the -front. The points over the knees oa the front of
particular style Is not becoming to. any but a tall,
slim woman, -but on those tho eftect Is tunning.
In the Grecian models there are aocse running llt
U peplums aaaa of chiffon almost jcovered .with em
broidery &r beads, the edges finished wlai -frlage
or grelloU of-gold and 'sliver. Thesklrteasder thee
are of aatuvvelvetA pteea. andevH'f'.velr;4eaaIaet
and are .slain, eeaat. and generally a MtUe" I
These peplums may be of any length, for each Is ad
Justed to the Individual with regard to height and size.
Some of the prettiest are curved up In front, the p"olnta
at the aides being trimmed with tassels or with clusters
of velvet, chenille or worsted flowers.
Zimmerman Is showing some of these little affairs
which are all covered over with quaint bouquets ot
flowers embroidered in wools and In shades that ara
as quaint and unusual as the designs themselves. The
background Is generally of dark colored chiffon, black,
certain shades of green and electric blue and .a
burnt o ran go color that Is striking. In some the em
broidery la mingled with gold threads or with oxidized
One model shown- at this establishment was of the
burnt orange color over white valour delaine, the
colors of the embroidery being dull rose, old Saxe blue
and a rather vivid green, with a great deal of gold
thread. The lower edge of the peplum was bordered
with gold fringe and over this hung made bouquets of
woolen flowers. It was quite adorable, especially for
a young girl, for whom It was Intended.
"While evening frocks for older women are more or
less elaborate all those which are being shown for
debutantes' and for girls at the dancing age are the
simplest things, possible. Soft fabrics are Invariably
chosen for them, and In white and the palest shades,
and while some few are trimmed -with lace or are
embroidered, the majority are plain finished with, puffs
or ruffles of their materials, and if taey are trimmed
It is with ribbons and flowers. X good masy are period
gowns, flounced and ruffled, or of the lMO'style. vrtta
wide puffs edging the skirt and oddly ohaped sleeves.
Some of these last are of changeable taffetas In eharm.
ing colors, the puffs' and flnlahinsw being of chrffoa.
Callot this vrinter Is showing some asodela of. chiffon
velvet, the skirts slightly long aad showing: a little
embroidery, done by hand; In black, green, or dull blue
bead. In one ot these gowna the dealgn was a sun
burst, and this was sprinkled lightly over the entire
skirt, the top having sly .-occaaioBal ones, far aart.
The. beaaa were daM bfcw. and the feedlee to BUdeat
the sa-ae shade of tulle, ever which waa drafted-a'flefci
shaded pteee -velvet. ai eaaerclare. The aleevev.
ot tulle, were long, loose at the top, anil close and a
good deal wrinkled from the elbow down, the fastening
of these being invisible. The neck was pointed back
and front and quite low, these points being filled la.
with white tulle, over which was a single thickness)
of the blue. It was a gown that could be worn for,
an Indefinite period and never lose Its freshness or Its I
Another useful black frock was aeen at Bechof
Cavld's, and was of satin, finished about the bottom-
of h skirt with two bias ruffles, each bordered with'
grellots. The skirt Just escaped the ground, and the '
lower row of grellots filled In this space. TheV waiatfi " '
was slightly mounted, and there was a high belt and
one long sash end of satin ribbon. The bodice showed
a rounded neck with a turned over finish of embroi
dered white tulle, and from under this fell a deep
bertha of black ChanUlly lace. On the shoulders this
was caught up and displayed short sleeves beneath, of.
black tulle, with turned back frills of embroidered
white tulle. If the word dainty can be applied to a
black gown, their -this was one. and. like the other oaa
mentioned, had serviceable qualities that rendered iV
especially desirable. "
Hair ornaments are another detail of the toilet that,
are4ecomtng important and costly also. Bands of real
Jewels, aigrettes set into clasps of great price, orna
ments such as peacock feathers and ospreys. made of
diamonds, emeralds, and other precious atones, aro all
being worn for the opera, theater, and for dinners.
The jeweled 'bands are generally or open design, and
are wide, frem three to six inches. Some are shaped
narrow- in the frontand sufficiently wide in the back
to cover the hair completely, With these the fastening
Is In front and under an ornament which hangs loose, j
and which may be as large and as gorgeous as one mar;
In leas costly hair decoration there are many novel
ties. Aigrettes of spun glass are new. and they ara
moat beautiful, for the upstanding feathery orsameata
are finer teas sflk and,fey have all the flro and sparksa
of dta-aeada. .These are generally mounted on to XI
t 'Mack velvet," the aigrette staadta at one alia .
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