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)t SUNDAY, DECEMBER 3, lSxl'.
P A K 15
FA SHI O N 5
BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE.
THE debutante of this season ban
apparently been the favorite of
Dame Fashion .when planning
the winter styles, for almost
without exception the most
attractive and fascinating mod
els are best suited to youthful figures
and complexions. The debutante of to
day is an extremely smart yonng person
when she does not fall into the error of
striving to be conspicuous and eccentric j
ia her dress. When she attempts that
she at once loses all the charm and, in
fact, most of the smart effect, and is
merely conspicuous for bad style. The
coiffure has a lot to do with the youthful
Cloth Costume vim Vtlrtt Btndt.
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'SW&54&iS S?JHfcWiKiSM? : White Charmeuse Clown with fl jk. 1 B ft. V
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Chiffon Gown. . WF--Hj.B gfeSfeBSi IHB P ' ' f
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Blue Liberty Satin and Embroidered Tulle Gown.
sleeve finishing in a double puff or ruffle.
This same model is charmingly effective
in light weight cloth or in velvet also.
"She looks like an old picture" is a re-j
mark heard often of late, and there is no
doubt that old pictures have been studied
by the designers of dress in the search lor
appearance. The hair worn close to the
head, parted a little to one side and then
drawn down over the eves, is essentially
youthful. But a word of warning, it h
a dangerous tasnion for any woman no
longer young, as, if not arranged exactly
right. It -will add years to her appearance-
New Taffeta Gowns. .
Charmingly original and becoming ia a
gown of black taffeta, and, by the way,
it may be noted that taffeta is rapidly
STowlng in favor, white, black and col
ored and the smartest black taffeta gowns
are made up for the winter, with soma
trimming of fur to Indicate that they
really are for winter and not for summer.
The model of a smart taffeta gown Js
trimmed with very narrow ruffles .put
on In scallops. These rufflea can be'
trimmed with narrowest ailk fringe or be
edged with fur. or can be withbut any
trimming, but this laat Ia not nearly bo
Tho white fichu la so Ianro tf !-.-
covefa the waiat and crosses over from
right to left of the waist, finishing at the
left side under a rosette of the ailk. .The
elbow length sleeres have a wide hand of
fur, just above the elbow, the silk of the
BIosm Jn Two Colon of Chiffon.
new ideas. JCot every- girl can; wear the
picturesQue styles as a general'rule, but
there are few girb who do not look their
best in the. charmingly simp'": , girlish
styles of evening gowns that are exhibited.
Costly simplicity it is, as a rule, but most
effective. One modelthat has .attained
immediate ,pularty is of the palest blue
liberty satin, n one piece. Empire gown,
but not so ec&ct s. the exaggerated de
eicBs e-a this" order. There ia an overdress
of exquisitely fine white mousseline de
sole, finished at the foot in scallops
trimmed with crystal bead fringe. The
waist has a wide bertha trimmed with
the same fringe. On the bertha, down
the side of the overskirt and around it is
a band or leciTn nF mtmidfrv in dull
silk. .Thl pmhroidprv has also been car
ried out In pearl and crystal beads, and
while this rendering of the design does not
give the same touch of color- it does give
a more elaborate effect, for the pearl and
crystal embroidery is suitable for the
most elaborate of gowns. This same
C&Mea Zrctlo (Sows.
model has been made in' different color
ings, -in darker tones, 4sd,;B3de with lets
embroidery oa the wai aad & silk fringe
substituted f the fl and crystal, it
Gown of Blue Velvet with
can be made suitable for an afternoon
house gown. And yet the original model,
as exhibited, for an evening gown, la so
fascinating it r ms almost a pity to
change itio any way.
White Charmeuse Model.
.Another model for an evening gown that
also deserves the popularity it has re
ceived is of white charmeuse. The design
of this gown Is strikingly simple, the skirt,
with, some fulness at tho sides and across
the back, is slashed at the front to show a
pleating of chiffon.. Around the skirt Is, a
band of embroidery or lace, and there is. a
fold or pleat down the side to -give the
effect of the skirt opening at the side in
stead of at the back. The entire waist
Is covered with a Marie Antoinette fichu
o? finest lace, the ends fastening Jn front,
a little to one iside. under large rose.
A belt. witkMh ends i of deep rose pink
velvet, and n the short lace sleeves are
tiny rose pink TdTtt-bows. WJ tMs
model if ordinarily designed, for a yeeng
girl. It can be taken a as. WeaJor a, gown
Red! Liberty Satin Gown with
Wfe!t&;S3,tui Collar, and C.uffs.
Uraighter, slashed to show an underskirt
f lace or brocade, and then the waist on
.he same lines, but with lace trimmed chif
fon fichu rather than one entirely of lace.
The wearing of artificial flowers is so
extremely popular this season that there
are few gowns seen without them. Only
of 1 yearJ has it been considered good
style for a young girl to wear artificial
flowers of any kind, then the tiniest of
flowers were permitted the debutante and
now the one large rose is added. The
roses made of silk are most unusual in
coloring and unlike anything known to a
botanist, but always effective and strik-
llii l V V
Cloto aad LC9 Cowa.
ing. Shaded ribbon is used Sn their con
struction a--! often dull shades of green
and brown are'eombihed.. The duH shades
are net, iowevcr, suiUMe,.Jor ue young
girl's: irecks, but for theaa aw, instead,
the pale or deep pink or yellow roses with
Liberty satin is a fashionable material
this season, and there are so many colors
and shades of color that to choose any
that is unbecoming seems almost a crime.
There are many shades of red that are
extremely popular for the more elaborate
afternoon house frock or to wear under
a long fur coat for a luncheon or card
party. Again there is the note of the
picturesque in the model of the one
piece frock with the skirt trimmed with
eight narrow ruchings of the satin. The
sleeves are large and wide, with some of
the same niching and wide turnback
cuffs of white ratine. There is also a
collar of the white ratine, and white
ruffled lace also gives a softening touch
that makes the gown all- the more becom
ing, for the curious shade of red of which
it is made is more unusuai than becom
ing. This same model has been success
fully carried out in black taffeta and also
In lightweight wool. It should never be
attempted in any heavy material, for both
skirt and waist are made full and soft.
always satisfactory, and there are few
occasions when it does not look welL
There are this winter more cloth gowns
worn than last year, and satins and
smooth faced cloths of all colors, but pref
erably light, are in great demand. The
palest gray and tan and also an oyster
white, with dark fur trimmings, are all
becoming and very smart, and yet there
are so many times when the velvet or
veTveteen. and it is almost always the
latter material, seems more suitable.
Fur Trimmings Popular.
Fur is used to trim house gowns, even
ing gowns and street gowns, but for the
d&butante it is not considered smart to
Black Telosr Gown with mid Silk.
BUek sad Greet Striped lUtlat C6t.
-The short skirts of last season appar
ently were too successful to be entirelj
discarded, and many, in fact most, of the
dancing frocks, arc made quite short, the
round even length as of last year, but
there are some -attractive models for din
ner and. theatre gowns that have decided
trains, narrow and pointed, while the
persistent tbreateniugs. of full long sklrtt
coming Into fashion ere long hare a de
cided Influence when a, large outfit or
dered, so that certainly there must be
.A or f hree long skirts included.
Velvet gowns are so becoming to young
eiris maw ia pho ui music ueiug worn
Kv women of all ages, they ore still con
sidered Braarr. The one piece frocld wit!
jacket to ssatca, wiin naawamiurt, &
nave much, if any, on the evening gown.
For the street there can be a band around
the skirt; a band around the sleeves, and
either a separate fur collar or revers and
lapels of fur must trim the coat. For-
tunately fashion does not insist upon the
most expensive furs being used and there
are any number of becoming furs, suit
able for the young girl, that are not at all
costly. The fact that these same furs
would not be recognized, probably, by any
naturalist need not militate against them
just so long as they are becoming- and
effective. There are many light colored
furs that would be quite Impossible for
older women to wear that "are charming
for the young girl, while, if expense does
not have to hi considered there are plenty.
to choose from in both dark and light.
Satins, silks and all transparent ma
terials are included in what the. debutante
can select for her evening gown this sea
son. Spangled gowns are permitted If
the.desicn is simole-and the gown is made
after some simple model Tho taffeta
silks, the soft fine quality and the pale
shades trimmou wttn narrow rucnings-'oc
the silk or some fine lace, are smart and
the harrovA ."utiles edged with fringe are
abo fashiul-ble trimmings There is not
any marked difference in the, general ap
pearance of the dancing akirt, but if -measures
more than last season arid there r
are often quite a few gathers around
the hips and at the back. .The slashed
skirt permits of more freedom in danc
ing -and the fashion has been modified by
the Inserted box pleat o' the same a.
terial or of net, chiffon, or Ue.
lor an oer wow, wiw uijuh msiw,
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