OCR Interpretation


The day book. (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, March 13, 1916, LAST EDITION, Image 14

Image and text provided by University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Library, Urbana, IL

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045487/1916-03-13/ed-1/seq-14/

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kind of a gown. Many a beautiful
gown is wasted because it is put on
the wrong kind of a woman.
"There you arej The dress needs
the girl and the girFneeds the dress
to express individuality. Individual
ity is the thing.
"The function of dress? That's a
terrible question. They certainly do
women an injustice when they say
we dress for the men.
"If that were true we would wear
Mother Hubbards to a bridge party.
And yet any woman will tell you
there never are more wonderful
gowns worn than at what men call
a "hen party."
"A woman's dress has for its func
tion, I should say, the bringing out of
the individuality of the woman her
self. It distinguishes her from other
women, making each woman a type
by herself. If the gown does not do
this, the woman who wears the gown
has misjudged herself and should get
one that corresponds to HER type.
"Individuality is the keynote of re
fined dressing, regardless of what the
prevailing mode may be. If a wom
an is dressed according to her type,
according to her own individuality,
she need not follow the styles. This
abject following of the mode is all a
mistake. The woman of originality
leads the fashions, is never out of
fashion, because she dresses to con
form to'her type.
"I dislike to refer to my own ex
periences, but they point my moral.
I have been extensively copied. I de
sign something that suits me. Ap
parently my judgment is correct, for
the gowns I have designed to fit my
own individuality have been so
adapted to me that the persons who
see them do not realize that the se
cret is not in the gown itself, but in
the harmony of the individual and
the gown.
"The gown is copied in a shop
window and some woman buys a
costume like mine. Then she is
amazed that there is something inap
propriate, that it does not seem right
She never realizes that she would be
in nearer harmony with herself if
she would study her own individual
ity and try to dress so that she har- '
monizes with herself, and not with
me. Often it is only the slightest
change that is needed to procure this
harmony. In this respect I almost
feel that a gown has temperament of
its own, that it is quite human!"
"AMERICAN POIRET" WILL TELL YOU WHAT
SMART FOLK WEAR
By Betty Brown
HICKSON in Paris t hey call him
the "American Poiret" makes his
debut in The Day Book.
We have shown you some Hickson
gowns, and a hat or two from the
New Yorker's studio, but the man
who is classed with Poiret is a mem
ber of the Fashion Art League of
America, which provides The Day
Book wjth advanced styles, and from
now on you may expect to see many
Hickson models, those styles that set
New Yorkers talking when Hickson
gowned stage beauties and "society
grand dames" appear in the fashion
parade.
Truly characteristic of the noted
man-designer is the sports suit
shown in the foreground. Note the
long waist and the VERY short skirt
The frock is nvy Gabardine with
white leather belt and collar cut in
one. The white cuff and roll collar
are extra accessories to the suit
The little frock in the background
would be recognized anywhere as a
Hickson gown, the extra length of
waist and extra brevity of skirt mark
it a Hickson model. It is made of old
blue Gabardine and braided with sou
tach. The ripple of the jacket is achieved
by the use of witchtex, which is also
used to "flare" the bottom of the
skirt.- Tie-faring cuffs and gorget
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