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$fce "S&ictota gailij gagls : atttrtag g&otniiiig, gulg 24, 1886.
The Atfttque ami tli MwVi-n rncoinfort
ablr IKvic. rorCIiaiiin- thf Figure
Caprices and I'llit-H ..: r.u,iiiou, bat
1'rcscnt Style CoiiiuietiiLiUlc.
This unirei sally attrac ivo subject is
emphaiicallj-&o when the P-ht, warmth
and brilliant beauty of Sju .iig and Sum
mer bnngout the bestresults of woman's
ingenuity in the matter of dress and
adornment. When nature is gayest,
woman's attire, at any rate as seen on the
street -and in public places, is also the
Not that sho is wanting in regard for
her personal appearance at any season
of the year. Nature has given her tho
disposition to wear dress and ornament.
No wise man quarrels with this arrange
ment of the universal mother. Though
abused it is a blessing.
That a woman brings with her gracious
presence tho scent of flowers, bright
colors to please the eje, and tho soft
rustle of Summer silks to gratify tho
ear of lover, husband, father, brother
and friend, is proper and delightful.
As well as probably cx-erything else,
the female costume evidences improve
in out u pon old ti m cs. TJi ere is no excuse
for anybody grumbling about the degen
gencracy of woman's dress, from a better
past. . J
A walk m one leading thorougfaro to-
day will convince any one but a bilious
old bachelor that the female costume of
the present time is neat, serviceable and
attractive. It is a happy blending of the
classic mode of art's best and purest
days, with modern ides as to utility,
propriety and attractiveness.
COMPARED WITH THE PAST.
Let any one who doubts that this is
not tho ago of sensible diossing visit ono
of our public libraries and glance through
some of the ancient tome3 that show
pictures of tho costumes of our ancestors,
or get at an old volume of some fashion
magazine and laugh over the fashion
plates of previous decades.
GRACEFUL ANTIQUE STYLES.
It is not in the chronicles of ancient
Egypt, Greece and Homo that tho gro
tesque and absurd in fashion can bo
Somoof the models of Egyptian female
figures show costumes that, robbed of
tho splendor of jewelled adornment,
could be worn to-day without comment.
If imagination fills up the peculiar out
lino drawing of the artists of the days
of tho Pharaohs, indications of changing
fashions from a modest crinoline to cling
ing skirts can be found.
The costume of an ancient Egyptian
queen would hardly answer for a prom
enado suit for Fifth Avenue to-day. But
takooff her bejewelled head dress and
tho gems around her neck, put a pair of
slippers on her feet and a broom in her
hand instead of a sceptre, anl she would
pass as a good matron of the present time
intent on house-cleaning.
The dress of the ancient Greek lute
player may be a little airy for out-door
use at present, but something near liko
it can be seen at the opera.
On the conquest of tho Roman Empire
by the wild and savage Ilunnish tribes,
fashion, art, taste, literature and civiliza
tion wero swept ruthlessly away and a
long night oi mental darkness may bo
saidtohnvn rafcnnrl fmm thn innt.fi In
the fifteenth ccnturv.
Whnn nt Inst nn nttnmnf. tvhq mn,1 r
revive fashion some of tho efforts wero
crude and grotesque. Some of the most
ludicrous styles are found in the six
BOME RIDICUL0U3 COSTUME?.
The Venoi!an ladies of 1.1C0 wore most
oxawrilf. frul-5 and ruffs. The stan
dard r t-' i :;t ta.it time appcau to
have i ""! i 'dor w.i.ht. Tight lacing
and oil iix ;r other portions of tho
dress e:e reported to, to produce the
,Queon Calharino do Medici of Franco,
coiitoi-ipomry of Queen Elizabeth ol
Engla id. iiiomted on thirteen-inch waist
iue.isui'1 mo.,t as tho standard of fashion.
J lean I II , of France, Cathurii.o's son,
wore tightly 'aced stays, and his wife,
Margaiit oi .Lorraine, had a wasp-like
waist, prodj.c.'d by tho torturous steel
corset then in vise.
From about the middle of Queen Eliza
beth's r : ;n tho upper classes of both
sexes Ci.ii;cd out the custom of tight
lacing to an extreme which knew scarcely
mi' bounds. The corsets were so thick
ly quiltid with whalebone, so long and
rigid len l.ued to the figure, that the
long-poimcd tomneherstheu worn fitted
faultlessly well without a wrinkle.
The following lines by nn author of the
period will give some idea of the un
bending character of such corsets:
" Their nrhic coats by art made strong,
Y'ith bones, with pabte, with such like
Wheroby their baelr and sides grow
And now they hnrncst gallants arc;
"Weie they for use again&t tho foo
Our dames for Amazons might go."
Queen Elizabeth indulged in most ex
travagant ilc-. ices for heightening her
personal attractions. She was tho owner
of eighty wig-., of different hues. When
dressed" for a state occabioii sho must
have been tho most uncomfortable
woman in the kingdom.
On her head was a thick wig, studded
with jewels; an immense ruff encircled
her neck, her body was incased in stifl
stays, over which was a steel corset;
tho" stomacher, which terminated in a
point, was as hard as tho breast-plate
of a mailed knight.
The farthingale, from which the modern
crinoline petticoat came, served to give
tho hips extraoidinary width, which, ac
companied with the frill around the
stomacher, gavo the waist tho appear
ance of remarkable slenderncss as well
as length. The great size of the frills or
ruffs also lent their aid in producing the
same effects. Our foremothers displayed
great ingenuity in torturing and distort
PRESS IN Till: SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.
A writer of 1G33, speaking of the young
ladies of itio d.-.y, says :
" They strive all "they possibly can by
straightlacing themselves to attain unto
a wand-like sinallness of waist, never
thinking themselves fine enough until
they can span their waists."
Ladies must have suffered serious
physical inconvenienco from adherence to
the prevailing fashion. Alarmists of
those days had moro cause to lament
tho dangerous follies of women than
the mosfmeddlcsomo of their represen
tatives in these times.
Intho reign of Louis XIV. of Franco
thostj'loof dress was a modification of
tho exaggerations of tho Elizabethan
age, with the added enormity of immense
hoops. The custom of girding a woman,
as a barrel is girded, did not attain its
maturity until somewhat later.
HOOrS AND LOW DRESSES.
Tho height of extravagance in tho uso
of hoops prevailed in .Lnglaim in tho
latter portion of Queen Anne's reign.
The gobsipy journals of the day were
filled with "remonstrances against tljo
prevailing fashion. Old-fashioned peo
pla who read Addison scarcely need to
be reminded of this.
The wearing of extremely low dresses,
with particularly short skirts, iras a
fruitful theme for correspondents.
REVIVAL OF ANTIQUE DRAPERTES.
The French Revolution brought about
an entire change of dress. Under the
reign of Napoleon the ladies endeavored
to copy the costume of ancient Greece.
Ladles of England followed the fashion
and from 1797 to aboutl810 shortwaisis,
long trains and loose bodies prevailed.
COKIOCS CHANGES OF KECEKT FASHION.
Then came an unsettled era with con
stant changes between stiffness and
ease. Tight-lacing was revived. In 1837
they got back to crinoline. It soon fell
into disuse. In 18G5 hoops again made
their appearance, to be superseded by
Men cannot afford to laugh at the
caprices of women in this regard. The
ladies have never bsen more ridiculous
than the dudes, whose changeability in
thy all-important matter of tho circum
ference of their trousers' legs is a proper
subject for the social satirist.
WOMAN THE CENTRE OF AI.Ii ADORNMENT.
"Woman is the centre of all adornment.
Her sex can dress betttr than men.
They have greater variety of styles and
colors to draw on, and fashion always
permits them a wider range. There is no
reason why a married woman of even
" moderate circumstances " should not
be well dressed at home as well as
Uut iiow many women are there who
study the art of dressing well at home?
They buy slippers, and smoking-jnekets,
and studying-gowns for their husbands,
while they themselves wander about in
untidy, scare-crow neglige.
Perhaps it is true that oven " rags are
royal raiment when worn for virtue's
sake," but they ought to be clean and
so ought the wearer, otherwise virtue
loses half its charm.
Many a wife is pained to observo tho
waning interest in her husband without
suspecting why 01
or how, when, in truth.
the trouble is traceable to a little negli
gence on her part as to personal appear
i She assumes that he is no longer im
j pressed or influenced by tho mere ap
pearance oi inings. one attires me
children in their best for him to see and
admire, while she herself sits by a spec
taclo of unlovely carelessness.
Beloved reader, do you not call up
many a picture liko this where tho well
meaning and really devoted housewife
foregoes all personal adornment in her
enorts to adorn tho other members of
There is whero sho makes a mistake.
She ought to adorn herself as well as the
Lovely woman, be advised, Adorn the
house 3'ou live in. Build conservatories.
Have flowers on your table. Beautify
everything. Get as far away from the
spiritless reality of things as possible.
Give the imagination a chance. Have
pictures, on your walls ; hang your win
dows with curtains ; tie ribbons on your
chairs. Tho asceticism of tho middle
ages condemned people to sit on benches
and live in cells. That will not do now.
Tiie ideality of mankind has bloomed
into thousands of new and beautiful
forms of which our forefathers never
dreamed, but in which wo now take un
"Woman is the ceniro of all adornment.
Her face is tho fairest thing upon which
human eyo has ever rested, and in tho
building up of tho world beautiful she
should not be neglected, nor should she
An Accommodation Train.
A few days ago a well-known citizen of
Atlanta had occasion to go fromYrrights
I ville to Dublin. Ho took one of the ac
1 commodalion trains between the two
l"v"a' . II'." mmseii to bxeep
""""R"1"8 "J? ... ,
V "f" "V" J'"'"-V Vul' "" "vul
and while the train was dashing along at
a high rate of speed, tho engineer ob-
served -a line, large gopher near tho
"Jerusalem, tho blest !" he ejaculated,
I turning to tin1 fireman. " Put on brakes
and stop the train!"
i He caught hold of tho whistle lever
I and produced a succession of shrill
I blasts, which caused the brakemen back
in tho cars to hurry to their posts and
frantically endeavor to twist the brakes
I up to tho last notch.
The passengers thought tho engineer
had overtaken a herd of wild steers, or
that a bridge nad been washed away, and
every ono of them prepared to join in a
prayer meeting by way of preparation
lor impending death.
Finally, the train was stopped, but not
1 until the gopher had been left half a
mile behind. Determined not to lose his
game, tho engineer backed to tho spot
where ho had seen tho gopher, stopped
the train, and, accompanied by the iiro
maii, gavo chase and captured it.
"Say,"' said a passenger to tho con
ductor, as tho train onco more started
toward Dublin, " what kind of a train is
1 "It's an accommodation train," tho
conductor replied, "and will accommo
date an engineer as quickly as it will a
passenger especially when there's a
gopher in tho easo." Atlanta Constitu
tion. i The Late Mr. Vanilcrbilt'4 TVit.
The late Mr. Vanderbilt was more fa
mous for good nature than caustic wit,
making this little' story the moro worth
One day when his gallery was open to
visitors, along came a man with a glib
tongue, lots of enthusiasm, and dirty
He" posed critically before picture after
picture, and his soiled hands again and
again camo in contact with the rich
frames and even the canvases.
Mr. Vanderbilt looked on askance ; ho
did not liko to say anything harsh, and
yet ho feared for his pictures.
Finally tho visitor turned to Mr. Van
derbilt, who near by was conversing with
personal friends while he furtively
watched the spotted hands and draped
"You have a wonderful gallery," the
man ejaculated, "a wonderful gallery,
sir ; why, when I stood before that pict
ure " ho pointed to a sad-faced Madon
na "when I stood before that picture,
sir, I was so touched that the tears camo
rushing into my eyes like a flood like a
flood, sir; I wept so freely "he went on,
"I wept so freely that I could have
washed my hands in my tears, sir;
"Why didn't you?" said the million
The talkative man glanced at himself
in spots, subsided, and fled.
Both Strange and True.
It is a strango thing that tho man
who knows exactly how to run a news
paper is always engaged in some other
kind of business. New Haven News.
"""" A Bali Experiment.
Marrying a woman for her monoy.says
a philosopher, is very much like setting a
rat-trap and baiting it with your own
Tempting Her Appetite.
The general's wife went into the
kitchen and found tho colored cook
seated at a table engaged in eating a
dinner composed of delicacies and many
"Why, Mandy, what are you doing?"
" Eatln' my dinner, mum.""
"My goodness, you have never pre
pared such a dinner for me. "What do ,
yon mean t i
"I means dat I want feelin' soj
xnichrv well ter dav an would flincr er
. Oil 1
side do geu'l roughness dat I'se been
nnttin nn wid fur some time an' trv .
an' tempt my appetite wid er little . " ? so, Uncle Jake ?"
fruthin' extra, ff dar's anvthing left , " 6atm L7cr,hd P
dewhitefolkskenhabit,mum."-Ar. ftKT?' married Jfetriy."
kanaaw Traveler. Arkansaw Traveler. ,
The G od Round Sum Paid into th Treas
ury by People "Who Slawu K. atitution
In the vaults of the United States
Treasury at "Washington there is the
Eum of 220,746.26, which is entered
upon the books of the Treasurer as
" Miscellaneous receipts from persons
unknown," and which sum constitutes
what is known as the " Conscience
jTund," as it is supposed to come from
people who have at some time de
frauded the Government and who wish
to mako restitution by refunding the
amounts of their peculations.
" This conscience fund," said a
Treasury official, " has been steadily
increasing for sixty years, until now it
reaches the enormous sum of nearly a
quarter of a million dollars.
" Tho first money of the kind re
ceived at the Treasury was S380 received
in 1827 from an unknown person, "who
explained in his letter that he was
refunding for some customs he had de
frauded theGovemment of.
" Since that time remittances of all
amounts ranging from eight cents to
S2,500 have been coming in. They
come from all over the country and
even from foreign lands.
" A great deal of this money is
received from priests and ministers,
who write that some sinner in their
parish requested them to send it in.
During the small-pox epidemic in
Canada a Catholic priest sent us a
draft for $00 whicli a dying Canadian
had erven him. confessing to have
stolen that amount from the United
States Government, but not giving the
" Frequently nothing accompanies the
remittance to indicate what it is for,
but generally a line or two of explana
tion in given.
"Another time we received a letter
containing four two-cent stamps, but
not a line of explanation. This, I
believe, is the smallest contribution
ever sent in.
"Another letter post-marked at
Kansas City, was received enclosing ten
So bills with a note saying, 'This
money belongs to the Government.' "
" In January we received an official
envelope post-marked at New York,
and containing $2,500 in bills one . of
81,000, two of 8500 and five of 8100.
They wero all cut in two, with a
small piece cut from the center, and
the word ' cancelled ' written across
the face. A note inclosed ran thus:
" Here are' 82,500 in United States
bills, mutilated so as to insure tho
Government's getting the money.
Whatsoever a man sows that shall he
reap. I have sowed the wind, and am
reaping the whirlwind. This is next
to tho final payment due. God grant
me a speedy release!
"We had received 8500 from New
York shortly before, and circumstances
connected with tho remittances indi
cated that they were both from the
same party." N. Y. Sun.
In the Club "Window.
"Pretty girl that."
" Sho looked at you as if she knew
"Well, the fact is, mo boy, she's my
sistaw. But sho mawied a fellaw that
wuns a etaw, aw something of that
eawt, and they live in abawdinghouse,
bo I cawnt affixwd to wecognize haw in
public. But I always send her my
cawd at New Yeah's. Paw girl ! Sho
has been foolish wathaw than cwiminal,
don't chew know."
Milking the Cake Smaller.
" Here, .Tames, take these two cakes
and give tho smaller one to your little
James examined the cakes carefully,
appeared undecided, and finally took a
heroic bite out of one of them, which he
passed over to his brother with the re
" There, Tommy, -I've made you a
smaller one they wero both the same
size." Philadelphia Call.
X Social Difficulty Solved.
A correspondent of a San FrancLsco
society paper declares that in making a
call he never knows what to do with his
hands and feet, and asks advice on the
The shrewdly judging editor thereupon
suggests that he take his hat with the
formi'i- and his departure with the latter.
It all writers on etiqt'ette wero as
practical as this one, they would not
lie the usele s persons they are now.
APPETIZERS. s ,
A Fasliinnablo MKfortuue.
lie had been to the city and went home
brimful of news.
" You 'member the Smiths?" he asked
his wife, " th' Silver Crik Smiths, them
as got rich on the'r gran'feyther's
Yes', she remembered them.
" I seen 'em. They're way up. Live
in a gran' house on a street they call
thavenoo. They ride in a double ker
riage and hevo no end of money."
She said she s'posed as much.
" But, dumb sakes ! Mandy, you
wouldn't want ter change places with
her. I see her a minnit an' I didn't hev
the heart to speak t' her."
Sho said she'd like to know why;
stuck up thing !
" No, she aint.'Mandy ; notnow. She's
bin humbled rite down to the dust.
She's as blind as a bat."
Blind ! Sho guessed not.
" But sho is. Fust, she didn't kno'
me mo that's rid down hill an' played
tag with her when she warnt knee-high
to a turky. Then, 'Handy, tho' her
eyes was wide open, she went rite along
tho streets all dressed up in her fine
close and a leetle mite of a dog was lead
ing her along. He was tied to a streeng,
and sho had hold of t'other end of the
string. Now, 'Mandy, how'd you like
to be""hej" Detroit Free Press.
Jack Packard, of Echo Hollow, an old
fellow who has been a squatter all his
life, called on Colonel Jickerson, the
Old Jake had a short time before, em
ployed the lawyer as counsel in a divorce
"Good morning, Undo Jake; good)
morning, sir." j
" ny'r!"said the old man as ho sat I
down. " Col'n yer tole me that you'd
have that 'vorc-e by yistidy." j
" Yes, I know that. Uncle Jake, but I j
have not been able to obtain it."
44 What!" the old man fixrlftirrnvT i
. ... ' I
springing to his feet.
" Yes, haven't been able to get it" '
" "Wall. I'll be durned. I thought Tnn
had got it a.n' I staked my all on your j
promise an' now I'm runed." j
UNCLE SAM'S CONSC
J. M. ALLEN & CO.,
C, O. DAVIDSON. President.
R. S. CATES, Examiner.
The Davidson Loan Company
PAID-UP CAPITAL, 860,000.
Money Always on Hand to Loan on Improved Farm and City Property.
Have Loaned More Money in Southern Kansas than any Company in the
OFFICE WITII CITIZENS BANK, Northwest
Corner Jlaln Street and Douglas X euue. )
ZV. D. ALLEN, Notary Public.
ALLEN, GRAHAM I CO.,
(Suoopssors to Wichita Land and Loan Company.)
Negotiate Loans, Sell Lands, Place Insur
ance and Make Collections.
TAXES PAID FOR NON-RESIDENTS
003I 1-OVEU ISRAEL KROS. DRCG STORE.
I DOUGLAS AVENUE.
SNIVELY & WILHITE,
The Restless, Sleepless and Reliable
Real Estate, Loan, Insurance Firm.
Go to them for bargains. They drive their own team':, keep rooI carriages, and buw
their property cheerfully, and they sell It too.
Write Insurance, do Conveyancing, Rent Houses, make Collections and Pay
C II. FINK & SONS, of the old established and reliable nurseries at Lamar. 5Io., would respec fully Inform
the public that they have made arrangements and will -itart a branch nursery In Wichita.
Also that they are now taking orders for nursery stock to be supplied from their
nurseries at utmnr, .no., until tuey can
M;ry at Wichita, and hope to receive the patronage- of the citizens
oi icnita anu neugwicx county.
Mr. F. M. Miller, General Agent, will represent the firm at this place,
at Commercial Hotel.
On Chattel Mortgages and City Property,
IN SMALL OR LARGE AMOUNTS.
SHOPtT TIME AT TILE LOWEST 1LVTES
Mita Banking Company and Farmers Banking Co,
116 WEST DOUGLAS AVENUE.
J. R. HOIXIDAY.
J. R HOLLIBAY I CO.,
-Succosors to 3IAJOK Sc
STAPLE and FANCY GROCERIES.
No. 227 E. Douglas Ave., Wichita, Kan.
Now is the time to buy lots in this addition
while they are cheap.
ONE MILE SOUTH ON LAWRENCE AYE.
Street cars and large brick
School house in connection. For further
formation call at 61 1 S Market st.
Real Estate and Insurance Broker.
Farm Loans. G battel Loans.
BEST BATES AND PROMPT ATTENTION.
Do not fail to call and see me.
QFFICE !' EAOLE BLOCK, . . . WICHITA, KAN.
MONEY TO LOAN
City Property, Chattel Mortgages
AND PERSONAL SECURITY.
-LOWEST -:- RATES!
FRANCIS TIERNAN & CO.,
CONTRACTORS AND BUILDERS OF
Water and Gas Works
PARTICULAR ATTENTION GIVES TO CITIES IN KANSAS.
O-ocIwTocoiav- WICHITA, KAN.
" Correspondence Solicited.
Allen &. Tucker.)
TV I I"!
II. W. GILMAX, VIce-Prw., Nashua. X. H
O. W. GRAHAM.
(frow me mock in ttieir nraucti nur-
HOLLIDAY, Dealers ia-
BUNNELL & CO.
Have for sale, on line of WIOHITA. & COLORADO RAILROAD
north-west of Wichita, town lots at new towns of
MAIZE, 9 Miles
Trains are now running regularly on Railroad from Wichita to
These towns are in the best portion of
Sedgwick County, Kansas.
Maps of Towns and Prices can
At Wichita, call on N. F. Niederlander or Koe Harris;
At. Maize, call on H. F. Rhodes;
T. H- Randall and W. S. Mackie,
THE "EAGLE CO." HAVE
'' Junction Town Company" Addition
Thia Addition ia at junction of Ft. Scott and W. & C. Railroads
one-half mile weat of Bridge on Big Arkansaa river, and are very
desirable lots. Street cars will be in operation, connecting thia
Addition with the east eide of the river in 1 886.
Price List of thia Addition can
P. G. SMYTH & SONS, Wichita.
N. F. NIEDERLANDER,
ANGLO-AMERICAN Loan Office.
be had aa hnreinafter Bet forth
call on Geo. W. Steenrod;
At An Dale, call on J W J al
for Mt. Hope lotn.
ALSO FOR SALE LOT3 IN
be een by callinf oa:
KOS HARRIS. Wichita.
P. V. HEALY,
Resident on said Addition