THE RHPriJLK1: srXDAY. FFJSRI'AIIY 11, IflOO.
AFTERNOON GOWNS AS SEEN IN PARIS. -X
14-
. " (Sketckcd by The Republic's Special Artist, George A. Harfcer.) " j
Eitwlal Correspondence cf Tt.e SunJav nciMilil.c.
Paris. Jan. ".". Suiid.iy afternoon re
ceptions In Paris mean the Miovviu:; of
the very latest mode. Americans who
have resided for some tune in Paris
have readily followed the Parisian
-;ue of iweiviux their friends Sunday
afternoons, and jou may be Mire that
the sowns -worn upon .such occasions, by
the charming American women ate
no less beautiful than those of the tlain-'
ty Prenchwomen.
The ELcti'hes here .shown plve an idea
of the pretty Urese that one sees at
these functions and were worn to a re
cent Sunday afternoon "at home."
It Is the matron who receives on Sun
day afternoons, and daylight Is excluded
from her rooms, the nrtiiicial lights
6howins to better advantage the pjwns
worn and her beautifully nrrauscd
drawing-rooms. Tho hostess- may wear
n gown as elaborate as fche wishes, :i
l:aitdsomo ball gown be'ns thought
none too "full dress" for tho occasion.
But her guests wear handsome street or
reception gowns. One of the sketches
chows milady on her way to a "Sunday
afternoon."
One of the gowns worn upon the occa
fc'.on to which I refer was made in one
of the tnot fashionable establishments
on the Avenue ile TOpenu This Is math
of a bright jtrtvn cloth, with pieces of
lishter gnvn cloth omhtoidcr-d In pttr
ple tleur-d.sli. The collar, of the light
er ilnili. is cut hi-th and llaring ah. nt
the ears. The sleeves are close liltin;;
except at the top. where there is a s, ft
fullness that adds width to the Mmul
tiers, as the yoke-like piece extends out
over thotn. Pashionablo women have
taken Kindly to this width of shoulders
tliat the leading dressmakers insist up
on. Embroidered pieces are put on tho
cuffs, and tho frketch shows how the
rklt trimming Is arranged on tho trail
lug tkirt. A girdle Is formed of a nar
row twist of green velvet and Is fas
tened at the front by a. gold Louis XV
buckle. And, by tho by, the quaint gold
buckles are all the rage. All the old pat
terns at the royal museums have been
copied by the jewelers.
Another exquisite gown, worn by a
tall, graceful woman, was of blue vel
vet spotted with the tiniest of white
dots. The yoke and collar are of white
satin overlaid with a delicate piece of
Urussels lace. A rounded piece of velvet
forms a bertha that outlines the joke,
and on this is put a curving design in
act.
i'
x
lv
'itft
faZLamv) )
i ,a st-n. vy
i,rm.r
l
V
satin liblxin that matches tin v.-Ivt in
bhade. A tlotili!i iw .r the .same rib
bon design Is put m the -I.irt. Tiiis
would be one of the pretties.1 .f models
for the A merit an woman to s py in her
new foiilanl. pm-ki-rin the iII'Ih.h for
tin- Mik row ii iiisi. :nl of pulling it mi
plain, as is done tut the -l-'t gwn.
As an example of a smart promenade
ftistiime the- one .sliomi mi this paeu
Mauds as worthy. This is of heal-brow n
t loth in couibiiiatioii with Hg'it tan. The
tut of this gown and tin- con'.rast in the
brown ;-hades makes it ttrik ng. P.rown
braid finishes the edges' and ornaments
the laiels and collar. The bodice closes
with a double row of bras. button.
A tiny toque of brown velvet was made
to go with this gown, its trimming be
Ing t-hort ostrich feathers, in brown, and
a heavy gold buckle. This costume was
worn by a perfect blonde with very fair
hair, bright eyes and pink cheeks. The
whole effect was charming.
A mother and her two daughters re
ceived the other day. ami this is what
J hey wore: The- mothers gem a was of
black civet, made at Worth's. Yoke and
collar wet e of white satin embroidered
with tiny rliinestmies and j-paiklitu-colortd
beads. The gown vvas cut jtrin
tt'ss, the front draped slightly across
the bust, fastening over to lie left hide
with a big chou of velvet with stream
ers that fell to the Ituttoiii of the skirt.
One of the girls, a dainty blonde,
wore :i gauzy black gown made over
black taffeta. The yoke and sleeves were
uulincd. The only touch of color was
given by a great bunch of violets fas
tened on the left shoulder.
The other maiden's gown was of em
broidered black tulle hung over white
taffeta. A high odl.-ir and b-lt were
made of black satin tibboii. The skirt
Ml si, ft and trailing. Alton! the bottom
was a wide :ilil very full frilling of
plain tulle. ,ow. if the AtiH-iicaii girl
wants to be quite up with the times in
the matter of dress, she will ili litde in
her waidmlte a gauzy ami grateful jill
lihu'l. gown. The most 'toptil.ir st.vle of
dressing ike Iiatr is shown la the
sl.cti lies. 'I he iiill is put quite blsh ttll
Ihe head and all ever the h'-ad tie- lialr
Is in soft waves. I'.-incy toinlis ami pins
are worn considerably. Ostrich feat Iters
or an aigrette, with a knot or bright
velvet or Jeweled bow, form popular and
becoming ornaments for the evening
coiffure.
One of the most pleasing trimmings
that has liven shown for many seasons
Is the panne iclose-clit v-lvcti stitched
iu many row s on the sewing machine.ciu
iti straight bauds or timing or scroll
like designs. Cray ami brown cloth
street gowns trimmed with lite straight
baud nr.) woiitle! fully smart. Ami late
ly I taw a liaudsume black cloth gown
trimmed In the same style. The pnniie
Invariably matches the cloth in color.
In evening gowns this trimming SnNo
popular. A gray silk muslin with pleat
ed skirt h.ts it put in bauds around the
skirt and bodice, each Utnd a little- nar
rower than the one below it. A pink
tulle has pink stitched tauue UiruK
This fabric S aliu-st as shimmering as
satin.
Cording continues In fashion. Heavy
cords run into the cloth of skirts. Imd
Ices and sleeves give a pretty efl'ett to
smooth cloths. A very smart model that
shows this Us" of cords K of graj-biiie
satiu-facetl doth. There is a bolero, aiiil
lung sleeves willt cords stiti In ti in. up
ami down, iiiniii an Iiult and a 1 .i.'f
apart. Tho Ix.lero ha, a shapctl piece of
heavy cretiiii-tinted luce, laid over blue
velvet. a wide collar, -ailor shape, being
made up al-o of the lace ami velvet.
An ovciskirt elTcct ! given the skirt by
having a long, plain top skirt cut out
in trout to form two sc.-mi (mints, ami
tills sKirt is outlined with la.-.- jtiett s.
Tiie skirl that shows beneath tin- ,vtr
skirt from tin- knee K i.mled to corr. -spond
with the btnlite to within a f vv
iliehes of (he foot. Directly down the
front of the ovcr-kirt then- inn two llr.es
of the stitched iu cord. A blouse and
Mock are made of a lighter blue silk
itiilslin. The litdero t loses just above
the bust line by two scarf ends of lace
fastened with a square gold buckle. This
Is one of the prettiest that has been
made this season.
If one wants to hare one of the latest
tilings iu the way of fashiouablu ar
ticles of dress, one must have a laco
Idcn Jacket. Tut- deep, round cdlars
or berthas of lace that were worn some
j ears, ago work in excellent ly Into these
jackets, for they need very llttlu re
sJiaping. i.tuite I'n-m-liy are the blouses made
cntitely of strips of s-:tiii ribbon ami
lace insertion. Whole lfodices, siet-ves
ami all. ait- made tip this way, and .sep
arate blouse-fronts ami stocks aie de
signed to lie worn willi tailor frocks. A
quite jtHii.g girl is now- wearing one of
the riblton ami I.-u-e Indices that is made
with peach-blosxtm pink satin nbhoti
run together with a tine pattern of lace
insertion. Thin bodice tops either a
gray or while cloth skirt. I'or semi-dress
Mich blouses are just tiie proper wrinkle.
The lirst news that comes of the sum
mer gauzes is that they will b- embroid
end, bill of these 1 will tell ill detail
somewhat later. It promises to be a
bl.'n Ic and-while season in the Swiss.--,
lav. ns ami s. i,n. .;. a. 11.
LitTy-1
miP
Hi
m
r
' V
hh. Wfvn (i -:-
&j'-:y&
TSL JPVk
o! i r 2m
rj v k. v air,fEjaa j
.
1
r
vr
v
't
w
y?,
v&
(S
h
d.
i
V,
-
jsji
4
-i
m
S)
hi
S
ni'M
I
&5
Ml
m&
A WIFE'S ALLOWANCE.
An Answer to a Question Asked
by a Young: Housekeeper.
A Tall, Graceful Woam Wore a Blue Velvet Gown Flecked With White.
WRITTEN rR TIIK SfNDAT KEPfllMC.
A younff -Wife writes tw me. ami L-ks that
I answer and eo 1 will her question as to
whetlier or r.ot I think that a wife phoul.l
)iai her cvmi ilietino: an J Eeparatu al
low ance.
Very promptly I will fay. It depenJs
depends upon whut her training In raoncy
matttrs has b-n when ihe was n. nuM.
Now, I fancy that heforo that younx wlf.j
wrote to nic fho had a little cry In set-ret.
At least I hope it was In fecret. because
whatever may lie said about a woman'.-
rlsht to cry when the pl-n?e.t, and how
tears are certain to win her way with
menfolk. I do not approve or makintr th-ni
a weapon. I do not Lelic-e that the woman
who dal? fairly will mak u-e of them
Just to Bain her own way. Itest'ie". the ef
fect of fari Is not lastlnc Whit we tear
fully demand Is usually grant. U, Just for
peace's Fake."
Ctmerally speaklnc. I advocate a rpar
nte Incn.e, or "allowance," for a wife, and
thea are a few of the reasons why I do:
A man would not like to have the number
of cfRitrs he smoke dfscurcd at home, and
It would certainly re- an unpleasant tiling
for him to have his wife drop hints about
his extravagance when he has had a
"friend cr two to dinner" at 'he club.
There are just as many thine?, harmless
Jn themselves, that a wife w uM llk to
do that eho docs not want dis tied at
home pro and con, and hew can sho have
lliis biased freedom when she trust ask for
very dollar that she has, and must tell
why sh wants It or Invent soran reaon
If bhe thinks this Is bet to do? It hurts
the pride of a woman to do theso things.
All thl. you know. Is pencrally ppeaklnp.
Particular' spaK!n;r. there Is the woman
who could r.ot t frusto1 to make "ends
meet" with Just a fixed stan weekly, month
ly or annually. Tills Is not hecauso rhe Is
willfully extravajrant or Indifferent to tho
hard work that mu?t be put forth to cam
the dimes and dollar?. It I? simply that
eho does not know tha value of money.
If the little wife who has written me
knows not only how to spend a dollar, but
to spend tt wt'ely. then she may Insist upon
a certain allowance or for just a trial to
prove how- good n financier she Is. When
all Is said and done, tho menfolk v. m.M
far rrcfer to dole out ot:r allowances an-l
bo done with It, If we are capable of look
ing nfter our own money matters, itut
either laziness or tradition rcukes It seem
excusable when a woman tangles herself
up In tho mesh of little debts and then
tearfully declares that the doesn't know
"anythlns about tho valuo cf money, any
way!" Jlrs. Hctt7 Green, who Is called tho
"richest business woman In America." gives
this advice, and ehe ought to know:
"As tho Klrl Rrows older she should !
siven a certain allowance every week from
which to buy her own clothing'.
"At first her mother should g- wi-h her to
the shops to supervise the purchasing, but
later the i?lrl had better be allowed t pur
chase t''e articles h rself, her mother sim
ple nccump-tnylniT hr t approve of th. m.
Then the girl should be taught to keep a
llttlo book In which to enter the amounts
she receives and the amount she jmys for
what sho purchases, ami be taught to put
some part of tli. money away, with which
to buy presents for brothers and uth-rs at
holiday time. The keeping of t!,L buok w.ll
mean she will look It over often, and in
doing so she will f.c where such and such
was a good expenditure, and such nrd mcIi
a lad one There Is nothing bette' than
this sort af training to teach a girl to,
economize. She acquires the habit of keep
ing track cf every cent, and tlua gets the
most value for every dollar she spends.
One need not be. a millionaire before one I
fives tho girls la one's caro a little purse
to spend carefully. X
about It serious-
to thf young anjf
him your daught-r
that Is Jo- b supolled with Just s much
now nnd ther. If one's means aro limited.
then all the more reason that ose should
tceh one's ditightcrs
"When you Flop to think
ly. I: Is rot a kind thing
ambitious man to give
and your blessing, with never a bit of
caution to the young housewife to see to It
that ."he dos her share in taking care that
the hard-earned salary of her husband lJ
not foolishly spent at least not that part
of tt that !s put Into her hands to keep th
cosv little homo that sho is Just steprins
Into.
Th-ro Is ir. art I.n living within cne's In
come. And It Is one worth a woman's
Ktady. Many a woman wears herself quite
out trlr.g to live up to the demands of a
b house Ye, a big house does make de
mar.us It says to one's neighbors. "I am
important, ard the people who dwell with
in are going to entertain as beats my dig
nity, fur they know you expect them to.
ir.d how hard a woman will work to do
what !sj expected of her socially."
There are a lot or houses that could tell
stories If thev only would. Houses are often
chosen for their appearance as well as
comfort.
lit jour house to your Income. Do not
try to fit your income to your house.
Though velvet gowns aro lovely, you trill
have little or no uso for one unless "jou are
able to hold receptions of the stately kin I.
ISefter to have tvvo or three dainty, but
less expensive gouus that you can eislly
iny for. and not have to ask your tired lit
tle eamstr to wait fur her fee for th
nt. king of when they are finished.
Yes my little friend who tells, me that
she lias not been wedded Iung-I think your
husband ought to be quite willing to give
you .i set. irate allowanro nnnut .-i.-i
have had a llttlo training In money mat-
iTs. are sensible about the appearance of
your house and think it something really
wrong to run up dry goods bills. If you are
!g!i..nnt about all thes things, set about
'""""s sujn.-imng oi tnent, and clctncn
.strate. by jour careful management, that
you know the value of money. Then. I
think, when you Insist that you can use
- to better advantage when vou have It
all In a heap than when It Is doled out to
ou. the natural guardUn of the family
tinaivcs will see wisdom in your argunifnt.
It isn't such a dltllcult matter to inspire
.WM4t.v.vvs i vuv i rriuiy wormy oi u
tUAUGARET IIAXXIS,
V
V'
Y
pL