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l Page 2. A Strange City Within a City. S LM H M M : C?WMMt "WtCTI
'I X Page?. What the St. Louis Summer Girl Is Wearing at the Resorts. j 'P!! JBmMmlM NE MuMMON dfrSfer
V j Page 5. Picturesque Fisherfolk About St. Louis. ' fMpjp "p&fKMjh
S Page 8. Chinese Merchants in Manila. S fW "
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THE CONTENTS OK THE ST. I.OUIS RElTniJC SUNDAY MAGAZINE ARE PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. AT,I, RIGHTS RESERVED.
PUBLISHED EVERT WEEK, SEVENTir AND OUVU STREETS. ST. LOEJS, MO.. Jl.n TEH YEAR, Entered at tlic Post Office at St. Louis. Mo. as second-class matter In November, 1SS7.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 19, 1900.
PEIOE FIVE CENTS.
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AND NOW FOR
The Coatless Man
From an Expert.
I UB9 the words "The Coatless
Man" as I think It will help to ad
vance the style more than the
feminine term "shirt -waist.
It Is good style for a man to go
coatless In hot -weather, especially for
business and street -wear, in down
town parte of the city.
Tor a man to dress thus, he should
have bis trousers made what Is
termed "hlo pants" so they will not
hang loosely when without suspen
ders. A man should not go without
his coat if he doea not discard hia
I am not in favor of the shirt-waist
length, nor of the blouse, open-work
yoke and plaited backs.
The correct shirt for a man to wear
without coat is a long, stiff bosom,
plaited bosom or a plain negligee.
Cuffs should be attached in all
cases. The trouble with the coatless
style will be that many will make a
mistake and wear shirts made after
some feminine fashion that will
offend a sensible man.
J. V. JOHNSTON.
J What the Proper
Coatless Shirt Is Like.
Material of soft, open goods that
will fall about the body gracefully.
Cut full enough about the body to
permit of a blouse effect: sleeves full
enough to give perfect freedom to the
All parts of the shirt to be of the
same fabric and color preferably a
eolld one, or with extremely small
No frills or fancy work.
Pockets, for convenience; flaps to
button over them.
Collar, white turn-down, either high
or low, according to the nock of the
wearer, but in no case a plain stand-
Tie, Windsor bow, with wide, flow-
Buttons, solid, of medium size,
Belt, black or brown and rather
These are designs for the new coatless shirt, prepared for The Sunday Kopublio by Artists J. Wilton Cunning
ham and C. M. Biggers. They give suggestions for costumes for husincsi afternoon :ind eveuing wear, as well as for
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blouse effect. Next is a design for evening wear, showing a close-liltiug, closely
lawn parties and summer gardens.
WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
The coatless shirt it is not to be called
a "shirt waist" will be officially launched
as the thing of fashion next summer. It
is realized by dealers that the popularity
the style has already met has lasting qual
ities, but the haberdashers cannot get ready
for It on a large scale this Beason, and must
wait until next summer before "pushing"
it. St. Louis has been decided upon as the
best place In which to start the style, be
cause summer begins earlier here and lasts
longer than In any other large and fashion
able city In the country.
However, there are some men of fashion
in St. Loul3 who will not wait for next
season and the official launching of the style
before enjoying its comfort. Two well
known society gentlemen havo already or
dered and had constructed real coatless
shirts, perhaps the flrst to bo especially
As was told in the Sunday Republic re
cently, the coatless man Is the social evolu
tion of the summer of 1900. He first ap
peared at Eastern watering places, and then
became much more than a novelty in East
ern cities. In the past fortnight ho has be
come a recognized social factor everywhere
that the weather is hot. He has even been
legislated on. But he is, so far, an imper
fect sartorial product. His coatless shirt
has been simply a clean, cool negligee shirt,
worn without a belt and without suspend
ers. There was no real coatless shirt until
Artist John Wilton Cunningham, one hot
day, cramped himself over his desk and
designed one. It is after this design that he
and a local merchant had the flrst genuine
coatless shirts made. Mr. Cunningham's
coatless shirt is light blue in color, -with
very small white checks, three broad pleats
down the front, the two side pleats starting
from the pockets, and three broad pleats
down the back. The shirt extends but lit
tle below the waist line, terminating in a
narrow band of elastic His friend's gar
ment is white, and has other minor points
How the Coatless Shirt
Came to Be Designed.
Mr. Cunningham thus tells how he came
to design the coatless shirt: i
"I have always hated a coat in hot weath
THE COATLESS MAN
er. It Is a nuisance, but heretofore a neces
sary one because 'good form' suid bo. Now.
I, for one, am determined to abulibh the
coat during the dog days. I did not feel
like simply taking off my coat nnd going
about the streets in my shirt sleeves. I
thought there might be a better way. and
decided to see If I could not evolve a design
for a real coatlet-s shirt. I wanted some
thing that was comfortable, ne.it, incon
spicuous and cool; I wanted it to conceal :is
many of the defects of man's w paring ap
parel as possible. So I sat down at my
desk, took my pencil in hand and went to
"Tho Rough Rider shirt appealed to me.
It Is a cleverly designed and constructed
garment. So, I followed the general lines
of that. But there must be rather more of
tho blouse effect to a real coatless bhlrt,
that It may tend to conceal the point of
Juncture between shirt and trousers. There
is also a severity about the Itough Rider
shirt that is not necessary in a coatltbs
shirt. Therefore, I modltled or elaborated
features of the general design as my fancy
dictated. Then I found a shade of blue
that I liked, and ordered my shirt made
from that. I had it made short, because it
is not well to have too much superfluous
bhirt stored away it one wants to keep cool.
I had an elastic band put at the terminus
to overcome any rebellious tendencies that
might manifest themsehes. And I think I
have the most comfortable piece of -rt earing
apparel that a man ever got into.
"I think the coatless shirt is artistic
much more so than the coat. It la certain
ly comfortable, and there Is no reason -n hy
it should not bo fashionable. There could
be different shirts for different occasions,
Just as there are special coats for morning,
afternoon and evening. I am no advocate
of effeminacy In the pattern or design of
the shirt. There Is no necessity for frills,
flounces and gaudiness. I am perfectly seri
ous in the matter, and believe there are
any number of other men who will adopt
the coatless shirt as soon as the way has
"Both shirts are models of comfort," says
T. B. Boyd, in whose establishment they
were made. "True, they are much in the
nature of experiments, for the wearers and
for us. They are, so far as I know, the
flrst real coatless shirts that have been
made in the United States. The goods has
plaited white garment for eveuing
body, and Is btlll sufficiently open to be
cool. It is soft as silk, with none of the
clinging tendencies of that fabric. It is
ntat and clean, and It will prove to be
comfortable. The coatless shirt will not
blossom forth In full perfection over night.
There mubt be some experimenting, and
then there will be almost as- many styles
as there are -wearers.
"Since the recent publication in The Sun
day Republic of tho article telling of the
appearance of the coatless man In the
East, wo have received a number of ordirs
from out-of-town customers, mostly bank
ers and merchants. Wo have also had sev
eral local Inquiries, so we are confident
that the idea will prove popular. Why
bhouldn't it? Women borrowed men's
shirts and Improved them; are men to full
to take advantage of the Ingenuity of their
bisters and suffer discomfort without bene
fits? I don't think so. Why should they?
Is man any more beautiful for having a
hot coat across his shoulders and about his
body? Is he any more graceful or digni
fied? Is it not his natural Inclination to
get rid of his coat at every opportunity?
Does he wear It in his office, unless he
wishes to conform to some rule of real or
supposed stle? Does he not get out of It
as soon as he gets by himself?
"Thete coatleFs shirts are not In the least
suggestive of effeminacy. They are strictly
masculine In every line. They are made for
comfort, although neatness and strength
and durability are not disregarded. I do
not call them 'shirt waists'; I don't like
the name. It suggests an article of wom
an's wear, and fhe coatless shirt does not
In the least look like a woman's garment."
J. V. Johnston, manager for Parrish's,
predicts that the coatless shirt will become
popular, although he thinks a suitable gar
ment is yet to be evolved.
"A lot of damage has been done the Idea
by calling the garment a 'shirt waist, " he
paid. "It is not a shirt waist; that is a
woman's garment, and is not suited to
man's wear. The coatless shirt will be a
masculine product entirely. It will be radi
cally different from the present negligee
shirt. Of course, a lot of prejudice will
have to be overcome before men without
their coats will be considered properly
dressed at evening functions. I must ad
mit that I do not think it proper for a
man to dine with ladles, or appear in the
Nett is an afternoon garment, which is a decided departure from tne orthodox, ana win aouDtiess appeal iavur
nhiv to innnv It is cut full and much after the pattern of a box coat, the neck scarf fitting under the lapels. The illustra
tion nn the r'icht is also designed for afternoon wear, and especially for Bomewnat formal affairs. Other designs for
trnvp l in colthi" lounging and general business wear are shown, and the men who want to be ready for the new,
style when it is formally launched as a summer fashion next year will find Ideas .jat will help them materially.
society of ladies anywhere except when
engaged in golf, tennis-, or a similar pas
time, without a coat. But I think it per
fectly proper for him to leave oft his coat
whle at work, cither indoors or on the
street, provided he wears a suitable shirt,
minus suspenders and other unsightly con
traptions. Tailors Will Have to
Revise Certain Plans.
"I think tho coatless shirt is a fixture. It
is comfortable and seasonable. My opinion
is that it should not have pockets; for it
will be impossible to so construct them that
they can carry articles like a watch, with
out "pulling" the shirt and affecting Its
fit. Such matters, 'however, will be bottled
according to Individual tastes.
"Tailors will have to contribute a consid
erable share to the new costume. The
present style of trousers is unsulted to the
coatless shirt. The trousers must be mi
nus the opening in the back; the belt line
must be made to fit the waist snugly, and
more care must be taken to have a perfect
fit everywhere. Coats hide many Imper
fections which will glare when the coatless
man reaches his full development, unless
great care is taken to either abolish them
or conceal them In a new way."
G. G. Powell declares that haberdashers
have been giving the subject of the coat
less shirt much more serious thought th in
has been apparent to the casual observer.
"New York dealers are somewhat afraid
to officially launch tho style themselves,"
he said. "They say It should be started in
some more Southern city, where summer
arrives early. Then, If the fashion "goes'
the New Yorkers will be bound to take It
up. Many designs have been worked out
by the big manufacturers and dealers In
the East, but I do not know of any that
have been given to the public As a rule
the designs are little different from the
present negligee shirt, except that they are
intended to have the blouse effect. Pleats
are to bo features, if the truth must be con
fesspd many of the plans of construction
followed In the manufacture of ladies' shirt
waists are to be adopted. These are tech
nical parts of the fashion, however. Don't
understand me as intimating that the coat
less shirt is to be a shirt waist; it is not.
It will be strongly masculine, and comfort
He Began as a Joke, But Now He Promises to Become
& j. & Dead in Earnest. j j
able. There will be devices for holding
trousers up In cases where nature la
been ungenerous In the matter of hips, an-1
I understand that at least one of these has
been patented. We have had many Inquiries
for coatless shirts recently, which Indicates
that the public is ripe for the new stylo;
but the haberdasher will hardly handle the
garments to any great extent before next
Some Reasons for
Opposition to the Style.
A gentleman who hoots at the idea of the
coatless shirt as a social reality, but who,
nevertheless, takes off his coat on every
occasion that seems to him possible and
gets hot and angry when he Is compelled
by his sense of gentility to don it again,
declares that the summer girl is responsible
for all this agitation.
"The summer girl of 1300 reminds one of
the pictures of flower girls and court ladles
It doesn't make any difference which pre
dominatesin tho time of the first Napoleon.
True, the costumes are different, but there
is enough similarity about them to be at
tractive to a man who has an eye for art
and beauty unadorned. This openwork yoke
affair that the women wear now It is
enough to send all the men off their heads.
No wonder they want to get old-fashioned,
too. and talk about coatless shirts and all
that sort of thing. They want to get into
frills and flounces and look romantic. You
remember Monte Crlsto when he fights his
duel and says 'One.' Well, you know he is
in coatless attire, and right romantic does
A . .
SUSPENDERS UNDER THE SHIRT.
To the Editor of The Republic.
Ever since the first agitation of the question of the shirt waist for men I
have been thinking about a device to support the trousers. I believe I have a
practical Idea. It is to have the suspender buttons placed inside the trousers, an
Inch or two below the waist band. About even with these buttons silts should be
made In the shirt. The suspenders should be worn under the shirt, with the but-
ton-holes protruding through the slits, and buttoned on the inside of the waist
band of the trousers. In this way the trousers are held up securely and at the
same time comfortably. L. BERNARD RUCKER.
he look, too, with his laces and his linens',
and perhaps his silks I am near-sighted
and I can't tell silk without scratching It,
anyhow. 'What is ono to think of the men
-who want to set aside all the rules of good
form the rules that have obtained since th
time when men first began to wear clothes
that were clothes and get into their shirt
sleeves? They are so carried away by th
old-fahloned girl who greets them every
where that they imagine they would look
pretty without their coats. That's what is
at the bottom of the whole thing.
"Do you know they would not be old
fashioned at all? Monte Crlsto's style was
to wear his coat at all times except when
fighting a duel or doing some other hair
raising thing that Is, barring the period
during which he didn't have any coat or
much of anythng else to wear. Why. even
in the time of that effeminate worshiper
of gaudy attire, Ixuts XIV, the men had
the decency to wear coats. They were not
much in the coat line, I will admit just
little sleeveless strips of gay cloth burled in
waves of lace and muslin. But they were
coats, and Louis's courtlera kept them on In
the presence of ladles. Napoleon wore a
coat; Frederick the Great wore a coat;
George Washington wore a coat; Caesar
wore a coat such as it was: maybe it
wasn't a coat, either, but it certainly was
not a shirtwaist; Christopher Columbus
wore a coat, or what passed for one. Even
the people of the tropics have always worn
coats when they wore anything. Imagine
any great man of history In a shirtwaist. If
you can! No matter how much of other
things they surround themselves with they
never forgot their coats. Now, In the last
months of the Nineteenth Century, are we
to set aside nit the pacred traditions of the
tailor shop and go without our coats?
"My dear sir, it would be outrageous!"
But it would be comfortable.'
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