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THE EEPUBLTC: SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1900.
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NEW DESIGNS IN WRAPS AND AUTUMN GOWNS.
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MAXY OF THE SILK BODICES HAVE HANDSOME APPLIQUES
OP LACE.
KINDNESS OF TWO QUEENS.
Queen Victoria Inherited Gentle
ness Prom Her Grandmother.
A lady who is now very old spent soma
days, sixty years ago, with Lady Morgan,
the brilliant Irish novelist, and heard from
her lips a little anecdote of Queen Victoria.
The young Queen, who Had Just ascended
the throne, was at a ball given by the
Duchess of Gloucester, says a writer in
Youth's Companion.
When her uncle, the DuUe of Sussex, was
leaving the room she ran after him. paying
cloud: "Will jou not give me a kiss before
you go?" and then whispered in hia ear:
You have forgotten to wish mamma good
night."
A royal reproof was perhaps never so ex
quisitely git en, and it Is pleasant to fancy
that some of Victoria's kindliness came by
direct descent from that grandmother.
Queen Charlotte, who shared the throne
with George III, during the American Revo
lution. When the Duchess of Portland died, her
devoled friend. Mrs. Delany. was at her
bedside, and before she left the Duke
begged her to choose some remembrance
of his rrother, Mr. Delany selected a bird
that the Duchess had especially valued.
The shock of her bereavement resulted in
a short Illness for the old lady, and duriu
that illness the bird died. Queen Charlotte
had one of the same sort which she loved
extremely. With her own hands she
Drougnt it while Mrs. ueiany siept ana put
Jt into tne empty cage, witn orders tnai
no hint should be dropped of the exchange.
Lady Morgan, after telling the story of
v lctoria, comraentea:
"What a pity to make so generous a
creature a Queen!"
The modem reader does not share that
sentiment: but he cannot help regretting
that such admirable characters as George
III and his Queen were so misplaced by
circumstances as to bt King and Queen of
the American colonies 110 years ago.
ADVANCE MILLINERY MODES.
Examples of What Will Be Worn
in Cold Weather.
Among the hats shown at a fashionable
millinery opening was a striking assort
ment of the finest of Parisian confections.
An extremely large hat had a facing of
alternating white, black and gilt tucks.
About the Tam o'Shanter crown was a
voluminous drapery of black tulle with gilt
cord. A large black plume and black roses
decorated the left side.
Another was of green reseda with tucked
taffeta facing, the outside being covered
with alternating rows of velvet and silk
folds. The brim was edged with an Ira
payan breast. A large crushed Alsatian
bow was fastened at the side with a long
narrow buckle of gilt and steel.
A walking hat cf draped green velvet had
tults of velvet on each side. Across the
front of the brim was a long steel buckle,
and on each side an lmpayan breast. Lit
tle perky bows filled the closely fitting
A taffeta muff and hat en suite were
made of great puffs of sea-green taffeta.
The crown of the hat was of draped hand,
tucked taffeta.
An "Alglon" In the distinctive three-cornered
shape, with the point In front, was of
black velvet, and the crown and brim were
edged with gilt lace. On the left side was
a pompon of cock feathers, while a bow
made a finish at the back.
A particularly effective hat was of gilt,
with cord of white chenille overlaid in cir
cles. A whole sable was used as decoration
In place of feathers.
The brim of a broad walking hat of copper-colored
velvet and silk was covered with
rose petals. A drapery of the velvet ended
In stiff ends at the back.
Most of the hats shown were to bo worn
oft the face, and green was eeen in many
of them.
One of the newest shapes was covered
with green velvet, while rose leaves In vivid
gTeens, shading to autumn tints, covered
tne brim. A big turquoise blue velvet bow
was placed at the side of the Tam o' Shan
ter crown and green renaissance lace and
feathers were combined with the knot.
A new sailor, rolled slightly at the back,
was made of white panne. The edge and
brim were bound with blue polka dotted
JJberty ribbon and a huge Alsatian bow of
the same finished the side. In tho front was
a long steel buckle.
WARNING TO YOUNG WIVES.
Don't Bo Too Hasty in Your Hos
pitable Ventures.
I would strongly advise all young house
keepers, when they first take possession
of their new home not to attempt even
the giving of an "at home" until they have
settled down a little, and know something
of the capabilities of their now servants,
writes "Lady Clare" In the London Lady.
Bo many young couples now start their
married life In a flat that It Is looked upon
s quite a matter of course to keep only
one servant, for the usual flat, even when
Fltujted in the best position, has a very
limited number of bedrooms. A young wife
therefore, if wise, will, to quote tho new
well-known words of one of our national
heroes, "sit tight and keep quiet" until she
discovers what her new domestic can do in
the way of opening the door, showing vis
itors, waiting, etc.
It does not take Ions to find out what she
Is ;?pable of, nor to teach a girl who Is
ready and willing to learn the correct way
of doing things.
USE FOR REMNANTS.
Stylish Waists Made From Small
Pieces of Brocade.
Bilk waists made of pieces of brocade are
most useful for the numberless times when
one does not care to wear either the waist
of a gown or an ordinary s.lk shirt waist.
A rood plan Is to try to get a remnant
of brocade and then have it made In elab
orate fashion, trimmed with a lace yoke or
collar and finished with a transparent lace
collar. The cream-whlta brocades or any
of the light shades that are sold for even
ing wear are most useful for this purpose.
Bays Harper's Bazar. A pattern all of one
color must be chosen, not ono whr them
are two or three different shades. Light I
Baj uwiiw up most sausi&cioriiy. ana
black and white Is always smart and ef
fective, besides being very useful, keeping
its fresh look longer than anything else.
All these brocades will be found heavy in
texture, to a thin lining must bo put in;
otherwise the waist will be too warm for
comfort. It Is a mistake ever to use a heavy
lining. Many of the silks are quite too thick
and warm, but, fortunately, there are a
great many of the cheaper linings that are
comparatively cool, and whicb,besldes, have
what Is called body enough to make them
wear wrtL
It Is a ood plan to buy lace r.t this- time
of year, when many remnants are to be
bad. Just now there are .not only straight
bands of lace sold, but tho scalloped and
curved as well. These are found in the
cheaper ns well as the more expensive qual
ities, and many of the designs are most ef
fective. To trim the thin gowns Intended
for evening wear and for tea gowns there
are some laces to b bought that are as
tonishingly cheap and are very pretty pat
ten's. The waists mado of strips of lace
with ribbon tire by no meani out of fash
ion, although they have been worn for
some time. A charming variety Is intro
duced now by having the lines go across as
well as up and down.
The solution of the pocket question or
rather the no-pocket question, teems about
to be solved with the number of belts with
bags attached or of bacs without beiwth.it
are now being worn. There aro any num
ber of pretty bags being displayed which
are most useful and comforting to any ono
who has been obliged to go without a pock
et. Soma are Hat. to hang at the side, and
T
MODEL FOB A THEATER WRAP
are made of silver network or of gold. They
have quite elaborate tops and aro realy
handsome articles of Jewelry, and hold
moro than one would Imagine.
NOTES OFlufUMN STYLES.
Brown ji Fashionable Color and
Feathers Plentiful.
From Paris comes the announcement that
brown is to be a prevailing autumn color.
A rather strong tobacco shade it will ba,
with a suggestion of red in its composition.
But of all neutral tints, brown Is the one
that requires the greatest care in "-election.
When it suits the wearer it Is "vrj. very
good," and when It does not It is "horrid,"
Brown and burned orange, by the way, aro
a delightful alliance, when carefully com
binedJust a touch of orange In velvet or
soft satin, and, provided the brown is suffi
ciently strong, a relieving note of black is
effective.
Elegant indeed nre the tailor gowns of
pale tan or mode cloth, combined with tha
same shade of taffeta. Often the latter is
seen in stitched straps outlining the seams
of the skirt, while the Jacket is made of
tucked taffeta, trimmed with stitched bands
of cloth, and usually lined with white taffe
ta. This two-piece tailor costume Is likely
to enjoy a lengthened popularity, as thero
Is surely nothing more trim and neat, and
one which Is always ready for emergencies.
The day of tho flannel waist Is not doue
by any means, and such a fetching and
comfortable garment, even In Its plain
forms, is boimd to hold its popularity. A3
it presents itself this fall. It is frequently
In elaborate form, sometimes with tho body
tucked aU over, with collar band, center
box pleat and revers of white flannel. Tho
revers aro generally embroidered. The up
per part of the sleeves only are tucked, and
cuffs flare and turn backward. Other waists
of embroidered French flannel have the
fronts deeply scalloped and overlapping a
tucked vest of white silk, and high collar
to match.
The high collar, which was laid aside dur
ing the heated term In Paris, will resume
its sway with cooler weather. Gowns which
are now being prepared for later on In the
season Indicate a return to the high,
straight band round the throat, and In tho
case of outer garments the hlh and flar
ing collar Is once more apparent. For
gowns designed exclusively for home wear
the collar will possibly be dispensed with,
but In all descriptions of street costume It
will certainly form a part. One method Is
to cut tha waist Itself rather low around tha
throat, leaving tha high neckband to tha
waistcoat, gulmpo or yoke, which, for the
coming winter, will continue to form a part
of most costumed.
From tlio first displays of fall millinery
tho Indications point to tho fact that it will
bo essentially a "feather sea-on." Kvcry
form and fancy Is carried out In wings,
breasts and iomions In fact, entire hats
are shown in feathers.
The manufacturers claim, however, that
nil this is not In defiance of tho Audubon
Society, as might be supposed, but that
only the edible birds of this country aro to
to used for millinery adornment. It has
been stated that tho plumage of barnyard
fowls, nil of which aro more or loss bean
tlful, and many richlv brilliant In coloring,
nro all sufficient for these garnitures. This
Industry will undoubtedly create a rrolliO
source of revenue for the farmer folk.
The long, sweeping Amazon plume, be
sides th. ostrich variety, will bo popular,
mado of tho handsome, burnished dark
green cork's plume, and arranged to trail
around the low crowned hat. which is to
supplant tho recent towering style.
Sonar of Odjen.
Endure, my heart, not long shalt thou en
dure The shame, the smart:
Tho good and 111 arc done; the end is sure;
Kndure, my heart!
There stand two vessels by tho golden,
throne
Of Zeus on high,
from theso ho scatters mirth and scatters
moan
To men that die.
And thou of many Joys hast had thy share.
Thy perfect part:
Battle nnd love, and evil things and fair;
Endure, my heart!
Fight one last, greatest battle under shield.
Wage that war well;
Then bcek thy fellows in the shadowy field
Of asphodel.
There is the knightly Hector, there tho
men
Who fought for Troy:
Shall wc not light our battles o'er again?
Were that not Joy?
Though no sun shines beyond the dusky
West,
Thy perfect part
There shalt thou have of tho unbroken rest;
Endure, my heart!
Andrew Lang.
Coiffures of l'oiiiprll.
On many houses In Pompeii are to ba
seen small, rourd or square frescoes, from
C to H inches In diameter, like medallion?,
painted cu the walls, which portray the
lacis of people who were probably tho In
mates or owners of the house.
Among the portraits o women ore to be
seen features clearly recognizable as thoe
of grand dames of tho period, whose coif
fures are of nearly every variety known to
the fair sex. Some of the frescoes are. in
deed, curious. One, for instance, pJrtrays
tho half figure of a woman who wears a
handkerchieflike bandage tied across ono
eye. In some the hair Is piled high on the
head, in others It rises In studied disorder.
There aro heavy colls of hair hinctn; over
tho shoulders: there are fringes mid curls
on the forehead. Some have it divided In tho
OF S.MOOTH-FACED OLOTn.
center, passing in heavy fold close to tho
temples and over the eats, while others
keep it bound up in a net of gold thread.
Some wear delicate UIs; golden fillets bind
back the raen locks of others, either en
masse or waved In little ridges. Many of
the faces are peculiarly pleasing, and even
modern In their charm. Especially Inter
esting are the pretty coral and pearl car
rjngs which shine from under tho m-sses of
luxuriant hair. A few are coral and gold
pendants, others aro simple drops, but all
seem proportioned to tho styles in which
the hair is arranged.
I'or Mosquito Illtox.
Some people are vciy sensitive to the
bites of mosquitoes. Such persons might
experiment with a novel remedy suggested
by an English physician. It Is nothing less
than the Internal use of sulphur. The New
York Medical Journal says:
"One of our readers Informs us that,
having seen a statement in some English
medical Journal to the effect that sulphur,
taken Internally, would protect a person
against flea bites, It occurred to him to try
It as a preventive of mosquito bites. Ac
cordingly he began taking effervescing tab
lets en luriariumne ana suipnur. tour daily.
He provided himself with several lively
uiosquuue, ana, naving put tnem into a
wide-mouthed bottle. Inverted the bottle and
pressea us moutn upon his bare arm. Tho
mosquitoes settled on Ids skin, but showed
no inclination to bite him. If this gentle
man's experience should be borne out by
further trials It might be well for persons
who are particularly sensitive to mosquito
bites to tako a course of sulphur during
the mosquito season, especially In view of
the growing opinion that the mosquito Is
the common vehicle of tho Plasmodium
malaria." "
Embroidered ITosIery.
Embroidered hosiery is now the fad. Even
women who aro prejudiced agaln3t darn
ing their stockings are busy embroidciing
their monograms on the Instep in red silk.
The season promises to be one of gifts of
hosiery to the male contingent. Men who
have heretofore been called on to accept
embroidered suspenders and slippers will be
delighted at the more practical nature of
the gifts from the hands of their women
friends. A man Is a practical Individual,
and, however much he may appreciate a
banner to hang on the wall o'' his room, or
av?ase. for hl8 mandolin, he Tylll never feel
obliged to manifest an enthusiasm which
he does not feel if he is prcse.htcd with em
broidered socks. He will assume to regard
tne socks on account of U embroidered
monogram, but the real spontaneity of the
gratitude will be primarily on account of
the socks themselves. Tha inonogram. In
order to be In good style, Jjnust be very
larga. and when a man weirs low shoes.
11
s I X
If tho embroidery is a little nbovo the In
step. It will make, a line showing, especial
ly as he Is already In the habit of pulling
his troupers up at the knee, partly to save
the spring and partly, no doubt, to show
hK hosiery, which has for some llmo been
addicted to rainbow effects.
Pencil Dumpling.
Peel as many lino, large, perfectly ripe
peaches as are required. Make a tea bis
cult crust by shifting a quart of Hour with
a teaspoonful of salt and throe ttaspoon
fuls of baking powder into n bowl. Mix
through this two heaping tablespoonfuls
of butter, then stir In enough milk to make
a light dough; turn It onto a well-IIoured
pastry board and roll It out to tho thick
ness of a quatter of tin Inch; cut the pasto
Into hquares large enough to cover ono
peach; pat tho peach In tho center of the
square; grate a Utile nutmeg over It; fold
tno paste over the peach, pressing It closo
with the palm of tho hands. When the
reaches are all folded In the paste, put
them in a pan and bake them in u slow
on or put them In a steamer und steam
them till thev nre so tender a broom splint
will caily pierce them. Servo hot or cold
with a sauce of cream, well sweetened with,
powdered sugar.
A Chi none Lady's Toilet.
The stylo of a Chinese lady's wearing ap
parel seldom alters, if she happens to be
wealthy she dreses entirely in silk, tho
first garment consisting of a sort of apron
or plain piece of silk tied round tho waist
and overlapping behind. Then comes the
underjacket, then the ovcrjacket. trousers
und apron. Finally. If she is going to pay
calls, or for any other reason wishes to
her face with a pasto mado of wet rice I
flour, which dries and gives a most death-
llko appearance. She then removes tho
paste from her eyes and lips with a wot
cloth, and. wotting a linger, draws it three
times round her throat, and the three red
marks thus left complete tho toilet which
is to render her absolutely Irresistible. A i
stiff, fiat fan and a powder box, with a I
little mirror in tho lid by which she can hod
to periodically touch her face with tho
poweler puit, lnvananiy accompany tne
Chinese lady throughout tho day. London
Mall.
Detachnblc Sleeve the Latest.
This, tho latest Idea in houso gowns, with
Its patent removable sleeve, will no doubt
prove a boon to women who dislike getting
the cuffs of their wrapper sleeves soiled
while engaged In household duties. Besides,
it gives a much greater freedom of move
ment. By means of tho clasp fastening, fa
miliar as a glove fastening, tho lower por
tion of theso slecvea may be easily and
quickly removed at pleasure. These house
gowns may be had In calico or In flccee
llned materials for colder weather, qulto at
tractively nnd tastefully trimmed and de
signed, in patterns to suit all tastes.
Colleue Bracelets.
The girl whose brother or coti'ln or sweet
heart is away at college can show that she
Is an enthusiastic advocate of that school
during tho football games this fall by wear
ing a college bracelet.
Theso bracelets consist of broad bands of
The new fur jackets are cut in very
smart shapes.
silver, which show a bar of enamel In col
lege colors, bearing the word Yale or Har
vard or Princeton, as the case may be. They
make very pretty little ornaments, and
threaten to succeed the college pin In popu
larity Philadelphia Inquirer.
WOMEN OF SOTE.
Mrs. Sheridan, mother of General Phil
Sheridan, made a Hag which has become
historic. It Is s,oon to be presented to Pres
ident MclCinley.
Mnie. Pattl's boudoir nt Cralg-y-Nos Is
quite gajly decorated with the rlobons tak
en from bouquets which hao been thrown
to her. Among them aro onie which are
highly prized, having been received many
years ago.
Mrs. Richard Harding Davis has brought
from abroad the toughest-looking English
brlndle bulldog that ever stepped upon
American soil. Ills forelegs almost form a
complete circle, and his face. It is said,
would give u stone Image a uightmaro.
Tho new Queen of Italy Is a splendid
rliot. Sho Is an adept with a revolver, und
possesses the Island of Monto CrUto. an
agreeable little wild resort where her hus
band built her a hunting lodge, and whero
she spends happy days of hunting, pursuing
every kind of game, even wild boars.
Miss Elizabeth Rose Cleveland, sister to
former President Cleveland, and Miss
Ames, duughtcr of former Governor Ames
of Massachusetts, lsavu bought an old
homestead oil Seven Hundred Acre Island,
Me., which they are to have remodeled into
a fine summer residence.
Mrs. Clemens plays a very Important part
In tho literary life of her husband. Mark
Twain. All tnat ho writes passes under
her severe censorship; she Is his most ncuto
critic, and if theiu is anything In what ho
hits written which does not meet with her
entire approval, it goes straightway to tho
waste basket or is held back for revision.
Miss Maudo Gonne, tho beautiful Irish
girl who is regarded by a section of the
Irish Nationalist party as the Jeanne d'Aro
of Erin, lives more in France than in Ire
land. Her gift of eloquence, added to her
beauty, has naturally endeared her to the
French. Women have alwas played a
very considerable part In Irish politics, but
of late years Miss Gonne has been tho only
prominent female personally connected
with the Nationalists. Gonne Is, as all the
world knows, a good old Irish name, and
Miss Gonne numbers among her forefathers
many distinguished soldiers.
FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER.
Tomato Juice will remove stains of Ink,
fruit or wine.
To keep lemons as well as to Improve their
flavor, put them Into more than enough
water to cover them and change It every
day or two.
.A bottle of oil of pennyroyal left uncorked
in a room will effectually cure mosquitoes
and others of their kindred from any desire
to Intrude.
To obtain onlfin Juice, press the cut sides'
of a raw onion against the grater, and move
it slowly. Tho Juice will run off the corner
of the grater.
Marble statuary that has become grimy
can be cleaned by flist removing the dust,
and then washing it with a very weak solu
tion of hydrochloric acid.
To remove any dish from a mold when
cold, wrap a. hot cloth about the outside
of the mold for a minute or two. To re
move a hot dish, wrap a cold cloth about
It.
Parsley can be kept for winter use In
soups and sauce by plunging fresh bunches
of It into slightly salted boiling water and
belling thrcti minutes. At tho end of that
time it should be luniovcd and dried quick
ly near the tire.
For a plnl: or red coloring, frcrh beet,
cianborry or other fruit Juico can be used,
but It must be filtered or It will be cloudy.
A home-m.ido preparation that can be kept
any length of tlmo Is mado by boiling to-
i gether ono ounce each n; cream of turtar
and cochineal und seven-eighths cupful of
water until the mixture Is reduced to half
a cupful. Then add two drachms of alusi
and turn Into a bottle. Any required tint
or reu or pinic can us otitaincu tiy using
mora or less of the liquid.
To poach eggs hard for garnishing, add
a tcn-.poonful of salt and a tablespoonful
of vinegar lo a small saucepan of boiling
water, and drop the eggs In one at a time,
at the point of greatest ebullition. Because
of tho Increased temperature, as well as
tho motion of the water, tho white will
wrap itself in a ball shape about the yolk.
Eggs cooked in this manner aro indigest
ible, because of tho horny condition of the
white, but they make a sightly decora
tion. onus axd exos.
Narrow black velvet ribbons with cut
steel buttons or buckles are ued for gulmpo
and yoke effects. In the smartest gowns
narrow gold braid is emploed in place of
the usual cordlngs. This, in combination
with the small gilt buttons. Is extremely
effective and rich upon lino llannel grounds.
Flannel waists aYo already In the market
and aro far moro elaborate than their
cousins of last year. To the staple plain
nnd dotted flannels In all colors are added
figured and embroidered ilannels, which lend
themselves to far greater variety of mak
ing. Castor tones und greens are favorite
colors und warm teds are t-hown In pro
fusion. The winter sailor hats have broad brims,
tho same all around, and are trimmed with
draperies of silk and velvet. Ono. of gray
felt, has a scarf of white taffeta, and an
other, of castor velvet, draped loosely
around the crown, and coming well over
on tho brim, Both scarfs aro edged with
sold braid, and are knotted together direct
ly in front under a gold buckle. A cache
Pelgno of velvet Is under the brim at tha
back.
Machine stitching is extensivclv used for
decoration on coats and capes. From three
to twenty rows are seen around the lower
edge of the coats, on the collar, revers and
cuffs. It Is usually done In silk the same
color as tho garment. Golf nnd walking
skirts aro elaborately stitched, also bi
cjclc costumes.
Tho newest thins in fashions for Iltle
ones Is the long-naHted effect with ex
tremely short skirt. Any woman of ii who
chances to possess some of the dainty little
frocks she wore at 5 can see In "the newest
thing" a reproduction of embroidered
charm. Ono example Is of bluo cashmere,
cut low and having tiny puffs for tleovcs.
Hi 1 1 u
lW II
2COVEL ABKANGEMEXT OF PLEATS IX AN OPERA CLOAK.
A white silk sneh Is drawn through straps
of the cashmere at the belt and tied in a
single loose knot In front.
To Prepare- Snreotnsh.
Succotash as serve-d by tho average cook
Is merely cut corn and young Lima beans
cooked together. To get the real flavor of
this truly delicious dMi tho ears of corn,
halt a dozen, perhaps, or seven If small, to
it pint of beans, are first scored down each
row with a sharp knife, then the tender
pulp or kernel Is pressed out from the ear.
The cobs aro then rut Into a quart of boil
ing water and cooked hard for twenty
minutes. Remove the cobs and in this
water boll the beans for half a hour. Now
add the corn, ami cook a few minutes
longer. Season with pepper, a piece of but
ter tho slzo of a walnut and half a tetacup
of thick cream. Thus prepared, tho dish
has all the flavor of the old-fashioned suc
cotash, lacking the heavy richness that
comes from boiling with pork and a strong
er flavored bean, as was tho formula of
our grandmothers.
Mrllnh Rnsslan fllnnaea.
Rivaling In favor the bolero, Eton, and I
little French Jacket bodices and short Louis ,
mais arc new uouoie-ureastea uussian
blouses, trimly belted, but made without
the fklrts. which were added to theso gar
ments when last In fashion. They aro ex
tremely becoming to slender figures, and
new trench models chow them In deep
geranium or Roman red, covered with Jetted
gimp, arranged In chevrons or lattice pat
terns, or braided In black soutache, with
black velvet Russian collar, cuffs and girdle.
Brown Venetian-cloth blouses have acces
sories of deep cream-colored panne velvet,
bound at tho edges with machine-stitched
bands of sable-brown velvet: nnd green
cloth models show revers and a high mili
tary collar nearly covered with lines of
black and gold braid. Violet-cloth blouses,
fastened with crystal buttons, have collars.
revers and culla of silver-fox, chinchilla
or very dark mink fur.
linnet Luncheon.
The English fashion of a buffet luncheon,
and that very Informal. Is a growing one
in New York homes. The meal. Indeed,
seems to be a law unto itself in each
Individual establishment. In one of the
wealthy, ceremoniously conducted house- j
noius ui iuo cuy an occasional visiior
found herself one day last winter In the
morning-room with other chance callers
when luncheon was announced. The group
adjourned to the dining-room, where a
polished table was laid with exquisite tray
and plate cloths. A butler, assisted by a
second man, handed round a tray on which
were two or three kinds of Imported cheese,
one cream and the others of heavier con
sistency. With the chees was served a.
choice of biscuits, unsweetened and plain,
or toasted. The best English alo was
poured into tufi glasses standing at each
plate, nnd with plenty of loitering chat the
meal was finished, no other food being of
fered. Did Sot ITmlrmtanil.
Tho gay marine said to his girl:
"Tho words I speak aro true.
That when I go to war again
I'm going to Taku."
"Hut," quoth the maid. "I cannot go;
It would not do, you see.
It Is no place for girls that war.
So how can you take me?"
"I will not," said the gay marine.
Yet, what I say it true;
When next I go to war, I swear
I'm going to Taku."
And still the maiden shook her head.
And did not understand;
She had not learned the names of things
In far-off China land.
Indianapolis Journal.
TWO PRETTY SUGGESTIONS
FOR WEDUIXGS.
Sweet Peas for Bridesmaids.
The fashions for fall brides are to be
among the prettiest that have appeared
for many Beasons past. Sweet peas are to
be tho favorite blossoms for the brides
maids, who are to wear huge picture hats
laden down with sweet peas. Thp founda
tion of these hats will be of white crino
line and tulle; others will be of white
Tuscan straw, and the sweet peas will be
shaded from the darkest tones and placed
with a careless grace.
Every Day.
O tho sad farewells now spoken
Every day!
O the sweet home circles broken
Every day!
O the sore regrets of parting,
O the bitter tears upstarting
As tha loved ones pass away
Every day!
O the glad home welcomes ringing
Every day!
Where the blest redeemed are singing
Every day!
O the bleFPedness of meeting,
O the hallowed Joy of greeting.
As the loved ones pass away
Every day!
Beatrice Clayton.
Parisians Revive the Ilennty Patch.
Nobody can tell Just how or whv it hap
pened that moth patches those little circles
or crescents of black court plaster which
are now worn by up-to-date girls Just at the
corner of the mouth, or under the temples,
or closo to the ear, or in tho middle of the
cheek or chin, or on the shoulder have come
Into favor again. Rut that they have come
back Is very evident. And a specialist in
this sort of thing says that th maids who
wear these black beauty spots ar- "allowing
one of the latest Parisian fancies, soya
Pearson's Weekly.
Moreover, she who thinks that her efforts
In this direction are limited by squares or
circles or crescents in much mistaken. The
Parisians have taken care of that also. At
the fountain head of such fancies it has
been decreed that a girl may wear circles in
two or three sizes, lozenge-shaped patches,
star-shaped patches, heart-shaped patches,
patches shaped like the ace of clubs1, patches
Shaped like tho ace of spados, flower-shaped
patches, or even patches shaped like chubby
little Pierrots, or like lean little tragedians.
Of course It would be imnosiible for tha
busy girl the debutante, for Instance to i
mm iiiii9 io cui oue ncr own paicnes, even
If It would not be extremely difficult for her
to get accurate measurements for the orth
odox shapes. To prevent her from experi
encing any unnecessary woes some disinter
ested manufacturer has taken things Into
his own hands. From the highest authority
he has learned the exact measurements. He
has made use of them In the patches which
he manufactures of fine satin-flnlsh court
plaster.
Untidy Hair So Longer Fashionable.
The arrangement of the hair at the back
for evening wear requires that it shall al
ways be pushed as far forward as possible
straight up from the nape of the neck to
above the crown of the head, but it Is then
pulled down again so that the soft waves
will show, says Harper's Bazar. The ears
are almost hidden by this arrangement of
hair. There Is a part sometimes at one side
of the head, or Just In the middle, and then
the hair Is pulled up on either side of the
part so that It looks full and soft, and, of
course, thick. This fashion of soft, full hair
Is, as a rule, more becoming than a more
severe style, but the trouble is that the hair
requires to be kept In most perfect order. It
must be well brushed and washed often, and
always well combed, otherwise It looks un
tidy, and an untidy head is more unfashion
able now than ever was known before. Glos
sy, well-brushed locks with a plight wave
through them make every woman look well,
but a mass of hair all ruffled up and looking
as though rats bad been In It is a most un
tidy way of arranging the hair. It is unbe
coming and not in the least smart.
A Stall's Ides of an Anthoresa.
Women are accused often of being guilty
of the most Irrelevant criticism, says Har
per's Bazar, but here is what a man an
author, too, he Is said of Alice MeynelL
Questioned about his acquaintance with her,
he replied: "Of course you know sho writes
delightfully, and you should see her lift her
skirt to cross the street. I never saw a
woman who could manage the act with such
dainty gTace."
Trouble the New Flamr Canses.
The corsetmakers ar consulting with
walstmsJcers, with sldrtmakeisaDd with th
paper patternmakers how to bring about a
perfect agreement whlfli will give the
women the racl up-to-dite figure and all
one kind of figure. The corsetmaker, to ba
sure, has the Inside track In figure-making
but If tho tailors und all the long list of
people who contribute to the making of
Madamc's and Mademoiselle's wardrobes did.
not agree with tho rorsetmakers, there
would be trouble, as there was this past
winter, which resulted in lawsuits when
the tailors declared that their customer
wore their gowns over different corset
from those In which they had been fitted
and then declared that they were not well
made.
White China In Vogue.
The newest thing In china that Is now
seen, and which Is regarded as being par
ticularly smart, is the "all-over white." It
would seem that this style had appeared
as a rtaction to the much decorated wares.
But this late fad will only be found to be
desirable when produced in the finest wares
aul with all the accompaning elegancies.
A set that has recently been brought to
th's country Is of the finest quality of
Mlnton, and has exquisite finish, a gray
white, said to be very new. About every,
piece is a narrow and scalloped gold edge"
The only other bit of color that Is seen,
is the arms of the family, done at the
sides of the pieces, not In the center, and
In olive green. Belonging to this set is a
beautiful high centerpiece for flowers and
four very quaint branching candelabra.
When the whole service Is upon the table
It produces a pure, shimmering effect
which is enchanting.
Tl... 1.11.1
He owns the bird songs of the hills
Tho laughter of the April rills;
And his are all the diamonds set
In Morning's dewy coronet
And his the Dusk's first minted stars.
That twinkle through the pasture bars
And litter all the skies at night
With glittering scraps of silver light
The rainbow's bar, from rim to rim.
In beaten gold, belongs to him.
James Whitcomb Elley.
A Jloaton Woman Recognises tho
Sisterhood of Women.
The splendid city mansions of the rich,
that throughout the summer are barred and
empty have long seemed to the thoughtful
mind a grievous waste of wealth. These
unoccupied homes represent a loss of mil
lions of dollars every summer Interest on
the money they have cost which yields no
body anything while they are closed several
months out of the year. It has remained for
a woman to correct the abuse of wealth
which these great Idle homes represent. Mrs.
Mary Kchew of Boston has thrown open her
luxurious iiacx nay mansion. 31T Beacon
street, to six young worklngwomen for occu
pancy through the heated term. The bless
ing to the poor of such an act of charity a
this is instantly apparent. That It costs tha
donor nothing but the interior sacrifice a
great moral gain involved In giving us
what the Hindu calls the "mynesV ol
things, the "myness of a home" is added
reason for the hope that the reform led br
the broad-minded, big-hearted woman of
Boton may Inspire other women and men,
to follow In her steps. Harper's Bazar.
Intuition.
How does It know this tiny hidden thing
Within Its wilderness of tangled grass.
The kour when summer's languid foot
steps pass.
And southward-flying birds are on lb
1 ,bw A
tlitn-
mll-.hi I
wing.
While earth Is dumb with August's
clnirT
How does It know the time for surptlzhi
haze.
Or guess the wondrous transforaoatloa
scene.
Which sets the field and forest s.11 ablaze;
Yet, In shrill notes, from drowsy wiys of
green.
Breaking the spell that passing uramtl
sways.
The cricket first proclaims the aut -imn days,
Henry Cleveland Wood In Alnslee's Mag
azlue.
SUNKENCROSSES IN MEXICO.
Interesting Discovery Near Buinetf
Palaces of Mitla.
Tourists in Mexico are under obligation
to the American Museum of Natural His
tory and to Professor Savllle, who Is In
charge of the anthropological department,
for having furnished a. new attraction.
When he was prosecuting his research at
Mitla. in the State of Oajaca, Mexico, about
March of the present year, he heard of a
cruciform subterranean chamber which the
Indians of Mitla supposed to ba a tomb o
the ancient people.
Professor Savllle went with ISO men to th
hill, whose shoulder or lower plateau was
about 1,200 feet above tha level of the plain.
Toward the left the hill rose In another
Elope about 300 feet higher, and upon tha
top of this he found the sunken cross. H
Instantly recognized the structure described
by the Frenchman Captain Dupalx In his
work, "Antiquitcs Mexlcalnes.' published
In !So3. and remembered that Captain rm-
paix nau pronounced it one or tha great
est monuments of ancient Mexico.
This cross Is twenty-eight feat fti total
length of the decorated part, but the west
ern limb has an undecorated extension,
which ws3 probably connected with a long.
siupeu entrance, ii tne aecoratea part alon
is considered, the cross Is of the Greek: i
form, but If the undecorated extension la .
Judged to be au essential part, then It Is
Latin in form. Tho width of the arm la j
111'. taut .nil Ihu iunth BA.tbV. mA n 1
half feet. The walls are covered with thrc I
tiers or courses of huge stones, the two up-1
iier ue'iug lurce leei ueep ana me lowees
course a foot and a half. Each has Its ps
culiar fret decoration based upon tha sTg
zag which some scholars call the Greek
fret and others the Egyptian meander, bu
which was always known to the Chinese,)
Japanese and Koreans In Asia. It seems t
jiavu oeen equally wen Known to the In
habitants of Mexico and all Central Ameri
ca.
Professor Savllle found that the cross oc
cupied the northeastern end of a great cement-raved
plaza, upon which axe various
mounds, one of them with five terraces, f
From his plan of the ground It would appear I
that the ancient people of the sunken cross I
of Gulroni possessed a strong sense of tha !
value of breadth to produce striking effects.
Yet. in spite of the dignity of the plaza of
Gulroni. it could only have been a side show
to Mitla Itself, which must have been of
vastly greater importance. .
Gulroni Is not the only sunken cross In tha '
neighborhood, for there Is another at a
place called Xaaga, very near, upon an-,
other hill. This is larger In all Its dimen
sions, with the exception of the western
limb, which is only half the width Of tha
others. Xaaga Is difficult to see. In tha
first place. It is private property. A Mex-,
lean gentleman with an ey for the plcV
turesque determined to build his hacienda '
or country seat upon a large mound, so that '
the green grassy slofo should be In front
of his door. In sinking the foundations for
the hou.-e the- workmen came upon tns
sepulcher. or tomb, ns they called it. Tha
entrance was found upon the western side,
and they tunneled a passage through tha -
western side of the mound. Xaagar Is un- f
like Mitla and Gulroni In this, that tha r'
walls are composed of small slabs, each ona
covered with a variation of the zigzag fret.
It it a singular fact, but the cross of Xaagar
presents an epitome or very Kind of fret
usd at Mitla. The latter Is In a peculiar
mosaic, cut in trachyte, whereas the con
struction stones nre of sandstone. At Gul
roni the ornamentation Is cut in Intaglio,
but at Xaiiga it 13 cut In relief.
The Dent Prescription for Malaria,
Chills and Fever Is a bottle of Oroya's Tasteltts
CMII Tonic. It Is simply Iron and quinine la a
tasteless form. No cure no pay. Pries Mo.
Wages and Salary.
From the Chicago Times-Herald.
"Pa."
"Well?"
"What's the difference between wares
and salary?"
"If a man Is working for 5 a day run
ning a machine of some kind, or laylnir
brick, or doing something else that make
a white collar and cuffs uncomfortable, b
gets wages. Do you understand what X
mean?"
"Yes. sir."
"But If ho sits at a desk and use a pen
and gets til a week and has soft hands, c
receives a salary. Now do you see the dif
ference?" For HURRY-UP COOKING
is there anything to equal
LIEBIG
COMPANY'S EXTRACT
OF BEEF,
CHORUS OF HOUSEWIVES
ANSWERS klV'
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