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THE EErUBLIC: SUNDAY. MAY IS, 1902.
EMPIRE NOVELTIES AND WARM WEATHER FLOWERED MUSLINS SEEN IN FRENCH SHOPS.
One of the Newest Toilets Seen Is of Rose-Colored Aeolienne, Trimmed With Colored. Guipure Parisians Have Decided That Coarse Linens Are to Be Much Worn ll'r
Summer Attractiveness of the Rose Du Barrv Pink Silk Lining.
,-To Go With Cloth Dresses,
Especially White Ones,
Hat Holds Its
ill h :i I M
Special Cnrrcponacnce o The SunJiy RcruWc
Pari-;. M i 1
mw V this world of tho Twentieth Conturv
II good dressing is necessar In order to
II insure consideration and respect, irom
our follows. The "glass of fashion and
the mould of form" is what we all aim
of nnH Vinn little should WO SUCCCCd ill
attaining to it, unless we were aided hi
the cnterere of fahlon Tachion preserv -th
even tenor of its w-ij with more pla
cidlty this peason than usual It is not so
much thn v.irlotv in the modes that N
chirmlnr. n the rierfectlon of detail 'We
And few violent change in an department
A visit to a fashionable shop recentl was
to me an education. In blouses, whether of
'useful fanc silks, with tacked vokes ami
lice collars, flowered muslin, with guipure
Inlets. nnd deep pleated fnlls at the elbow.
ior elihonte creation of silk. mouseune
or sitln minded with lace and embroider!
A beautiful model was In pale blue Oriental
atin. the, flat piping mingling with open
work silk embroider, and lace medallions
appllqi-e with black velvet The full big
sleee was caught into the waist with a
lace cuffs Near akin are the boleros in
plain silks trimmed with fane braid, or
of lace and ilk For warmer das there
are flowered moslins. with lace appliques
A charming gown Is mado of gra olle the
triple skirt ornamented with a new braid,
the design, wide in tho front narrow at
the ide, and is repeated on the zouave
bodico and sleeves It has a. baqued back,
'the lace vest and the full puff and under
leeves, are formed ot squares of inser
tion tBodice Front Trimmed
With Bullet Buttons. '
The deep shaped belt and the front of
the bodice are trimmed with silver bullet
buttons A rival to this is a smart black
ace cloth, the bolero having a deep collar
innd rovers of cream silk embroidered and
'tapering black braided panel"? on mo kirt
A most becoming matinee jacket Is made
iin soft paleblue silk, the deep collar com-
.poscd of ecru insertion and blue satin rib
bon edged with a deep frill of lace, the
'nnortWienn-nle'itpd leeves filing from the
elbow snd edged with lace.
Muslin Empire Gown
Trimmed With Laee.
A muslin empire gown, and another in
pale turquoise crepe de chine, w ere trimmed
with lace and showed becoming drapery.
fallng from the shoulders
One ot tho newest frocks seen is of roso-
colored aeolienne, trimmed with colored
I guipure. It has a shaped (lo-nee. with five
email tucks at the edge, veiled b a 'ace
Pflounce. headed by some light moire tucs.
mingled with string-co'ored Insertion The
bodice has a vest of the string-colored silk.
Veiled with chiffon, and the bell-shap'd
sleeves) have puffed slecveletUs beneath, to
taatch the vest, set into a guipure at the
l-walst. The neck band is transparent A
Stray chiffon, with three shaped llounce",
each edged with black ruchings was made
(Hip over black satin, urd was just the sort
;of"gown that a matron would find erv i e
Tul in the coming" few months The bodice
jjiad a vest of mauve mou'spJlne, rolled .lth
I guipure; tho painted muslin sleeves were
(strapped with mousscllne de sole.
IWhite Satin Ball Drebs ,
Ini-aned Wirh Chiffon.
5 Among the new ball gowis was .1 white
Sana veiir-a wiui tuckcu ciiuion, tut, pain
chiffon edge, bordered with silver llourne,
relieved with silver strapp ngs. Tho sleeves
drooped off the point of the shoulder, tho
bodico was enwreathed with pink roses,
which flgureJ also on the front of the tkiit
A useful dress In blue cashmere had a
couple ot shaped flounpes on the skirt, head
ed by stitched strappings, the thiee-o,uarter
coat, with a pointed basque, luck and fron .
tbc godet so arranged that the folds showed
the pale blue brocaded lining The tucked
collar was trimmed with guipure n 1
touches of velvet A matron's gown of
black broche had tho bodice trimmed with
pale blue rovers, showing a vest and colltr
of Honlton laco The shaped skirt was
trimmed with jet and chiffon.
This had elbow sleeves, with black and
The Parisians have decided that coarse
LI nons arc to hold a mij ptoiu'nent position
this j ear.
Natural Colored Coai&e Linen
'Suit Trimmed With Embroidery.
I I have recentlj seen a beaatiful gown In
natural-colored coarse limn, which had
(three shaped bauds of embroider with can
vas on the skirt, threaded with black fl
it et, ending at the back In a bow The
' bolero had a large picture collar of real
ecru lace guipure mingling with the em
) broidery, and showing the Rose du Hrr
iplnk silk lining This also was threaded
with black velvet terminating in looped
bows in the front. The lace appeared
again In the pink silk at the waNt and on
the wide bell sleeves It was Indeed a
glorified linen gown. A pale silver gray
jsuic vu.ie, cuv in pnncese Sljie, was
worked all over with Irish lace applique
The little bolero foil oer a pale-blue and
pink ribbon sash, caught up into a cliouv
on the bust and at the waist. U1I9 also
bad a ery becoming puffed sleeve Among
the many charming blouses now worn I
m especially attracted bj a fine Irish lace
one, threaded with white satin ribbons,
made up over a full under-bodlce of white
, chiffon. The sleeve terminated In a waist
puff ot the chiffon, a pale blue glace shows
much open drawn thread work, having two
diamond medallions of ecru lace In front,
)The" sleeves are slightly full nnd caught
jinto a hand at the wrist, while another
tucked glaco had Interfacings of black
(velvet down the front, held In place by
gold and steel buckles
Sleeves and Front Ornamented
ftYith French Knots.
The sleeves and front were ornamented
with black Wench knots. A still simpler ono
was ornamented with cording" of the mate
rial, leaving a stitched box pleat down the
To go with cloth dresses, esneclallv
white ones, the mushroom-shaped hat holds
Its own. It has ornamentations of gold
leaves and black v civet laco with tullo
nmlnir thrnil'h thn lntortttnhoo !,.
fashion. Ever one will be wearing tulle
toques ere long. The soung will i'oct
White ones. Paris lace veils and fine black
Chantllly lace veils arc made to tie In a
.row at the back so that the ends rest on
,the hair. Springs are cmploed for such
veils; some are crossed at the back and tie
under the chin Moss Is going to be used as
fashionable trimming on hats, sometimes
'the entire crown Is made of it.
FJower-Trimrued Hats Will
Please the Children.
For children, many charming flower
trimmed hats are prepared, such as a fancy
, satin straw of the new deep tone, trimmed
nvith .bunches of pink-tipped daisies, nnd
gras". tied with long cream chiffon strings
This w II be a season of frills and furbe
jlows of elaborate embroideries. Fashions
we undoubtedly more graceful In shape,
Ihowever, and more natural In outline than
Ithey -hav e been for years.
Exaggerated heels, the wasp-waist, and
(the huge "sponge" coiffure are thlnss of
the past. Even in underwear we are fol
lowing the fame natural outlines and these
(glv comfort and grace without being tight
oraburdlj trained1 over the figure. AVe
lose, nothing by eliminating the fulness
XronV the top p tha petticoat, (ts absence
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Cool Frocks Trimmed With
does much for the set of the gown
It U in man other was where a little
deft arrangement means so much to com
fort and effect.
Accehsoiies More Studied Than
They Weie Last Season.
The accessories of dress and nil Its minor
approlntments are more st-udled than of
j ore. and it is from these we really get the
The outline of the dressed figure has
somewhat changed this spring. Beginning
with the head, we noticed that the tilted
toque of turban shape gave height and
length, but this Is no longer chic; the chap
cau Is flat and inclined to droop over the
forehead. Even where the front of the
J etopcau Is raised, the top Is flat and the
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; bacjc closelv drawn down into the hair.
Some chapeau have no back brim and a
spreading bow of the butterfly tpe sets
cloel over the hair. The bolero used to
define the figure and fill almost close to the
broad belt. Now the bolero Is wide and
square and gives only a glimpse of the
belt--Just enough, in fact, to suggest the
outline of the waist.
Popularity of the Russian
Blouse Will Xot Last.
The Russian blouse, at present so gener
ally worn, will, I fear, have a short life
Ke-tt season ma know it not. At present
It Is ever where, and is sufllclcntl wide to
show only the waist clearl, while the rest
"' la ngure is almost disguised. The bo-
leraJurtW popular-anct'arpears la the new.
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Lace and Embroidery; the .Bodice 'H as
wash gowns prepared for summer weather. I
Summer wraps will be entirely in coat form.
but a few sac shapes with wing sleeve', will j
be prov'ded for the matronl wearer. All
the coats, whether of half or three-quarter
depth, have openings at the "Ides a very
Bodices Have Pouched Fionts
and Fitted Backs.
The ruffle and fancy boa have developed
Immensely, and the newest tpe Is Pat and
falls away from tho face. The plea tings
are so wide that the double or triple ruf
fle Is quite a cape It tends to shorten the
waist. In fact, the now stles all tend to
give a short waist, and this Is more e5pe
clallv notlopahlt. at the back, as the wait
Is now difficult to define from a front view
pf the figure.
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Bodices follow the prevailing lines, and
have pouched fronts and fitted backs. They
are ornamented, too. The bolero overpart
Is nt nnnnlnr n epr.,:ind admits Of COn
trastlng material or handsome trimming.
Transparencies are ever smart. New and
colored linings rival the white ones hith
erto generally worn with black gowns.
The new colors are of the Watteau and
rastel order. Those delicate tones have a
misty appearance which suggests a bright
shade veiled with tulle Lace Is used In
every possible way. and on almost every
fashionable garment, but for the more solid
trimmings. straDDings of taffeta are used
to lncloe bands of silk. Russian galon or
embroidered canvas. Applique motifs are
sold, not only in lace, but In silk passemen
terie. Skirts show very little
change In I
haj but th omAjuMJtaUea at the, eon
a Vest of Mauve Mousseline.
Is more ornate, and smart gowns are ex
ceedingly frilled. The hips are closely Jlt
tedTjy, darts or tuc.es. and the back is-kept
as plain as possible. Flat pleats meeting
closely or grouped tuck"? are still popular
for the back. When the trimming admits
the opening Is frequently made at the front
or side. The pointed train has disappeared
from day gowns, which are long all round
and hang limp and straight, giving a
lengthy outline. MARIE ARMSTRONG.
GRASS LAWN WILL BE
POPULAR THIS SUMMER.
Grass lawn will he a special feature this
summer, both as material for dresses and
for trimmta. The new grow lawn, are fi
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sort and less arjt to crease Those with one:
work embroidery mounted over white satin
are prettiest. There aro some embroidered
with ver minute pin-spots mnd an open
work stripe In black, lil-p Chantlll lace,
laid on. which are most pffpctUf.
others nave a border of pompadour satin
or a plain colored satin hemstitched edge,
the borders being used a trimmings.
French pique Is a material which will re
ceive due attention, both plain or worked,
with sprigs and dots In self or contrasting)
tones. The latter are fresh and dalnty-look-lng
for morning .wear, made up with thai
same colored bands In taffeta or linen.
Carrva?, fine or coarse, w.ll be much worn,
and a coarse white, kind is being utilized
for smart race coats, with deep gauntlets
and collar of colored velvet. These canvas
icngins come in air colors, anu each will
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