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THE REPUBLIC: SUNDAY, JUNE
one gov, a
Special Corresponfitnca of The Sunday Republic
-RIS, June 6 Black and hite
shepherd's waists are alwaj 3 a ery (
favorite mode with the French peo- 1
. cvjjiu, .n no .encn woman con- J
iaers nersell well gowned who has not in
ner summer nardrobe at least
made of this design.
-he material may be cloth, sill: or cot
ton, but the pattern is always of medium
sl-ed black and white check.
Oddly enough, all the other small checks
and plaids in any other color than black
and white have rather a an-d exstence
that is to say. thev aro -omotlmes In de
mand, and again are not thought anything
-, . ..j . uiacis ana -nuuo siu.s in
The objection to this pattern and coloring
Is that for a stout woman it is apt to ap
parently Increase her s e, but still If long
lines aro put on In trimming or the skirt is
gored that effect can be partially done away
However, .it Is Just as well for a woman
who is very stout to avoid this stjle.
The so-called shirt-waist suits in black
a"d white silk are extremely fashlonablo 1
" j ear. ne smartest are made without
any trimming on the skirt, and the only
trimming on the waist is a lace collar.
Pleats in Front Are
Shorter Than Those Behind.
One of the newest and smartest models
has two, flounces, pleated, which are shorter
in front than at the back, the waist in
surplice folds !3 drared bota back and front,
open a little at the neck to hov an unlineu
yoke and high collar of Irish point, while
there is an Irish point collar that Is turned
"" ul" me snouiuers. tho sleeves cut
close to tho elbow are full and gathered
into a tight-nttin cuff of the lace.
Tho same model has been copied In bluo
and white shepherd's plaid silk, but is not
so effective as in the black and -white.
It Is really rather better to make up the
shepherd's plaids without any trimming,
but the new fashion of using two wldth3
of braid is very much in demand, ami ifc
broad braid with a narrow ona at either
side put around the foot of the skirt In two
lines of outlining the seams are the two
Long coats do not look well in this pat
tern and the best model is the old-fashioned
Uton. with pointed or roundedrrntsr
the lapels are prettiest when made St plain
black silk or moire. White moire is, of
course, rather smarter, but soils ery
Lace Is out of place on such a gown, for
It is too elaborate, and the Idea- of the
gown 3 simplicity. The skirts should bo
made short for the same reason, for these
eowns can never be made suitable for-any-thlng
but ordinary wear.
Habit Skirts Appropriate
for Outing Dresses.
Habit-back skirts that have come into
fashion again are useful and appropilate for
puting gowns and for walking gowns but
the newest styles all show some fudness at
Iho hack, just as was the case when the
habit skirts camo into fashion so long ago.
tVith the medium-length coats the habit
ck. is an advantage, ror It makes a gown
rerj' warm to ha-o the two thicknesses of
(loth around the hips, as is the case when
there is a long coat, but the light-weight
jloths and linens are now made up In this
jashlon. So much has been said about skirts
Jtting closely around tho hips that, as Is
isual with any marked fashion, tho style Is
rapidly losing its individuality and becom
ing disagreeably consDicuous. In t, -,.,...
made sklrts-p!qu, duck, etc.-the aim and
object of the manufacturers seem to be to
put as little material in as possible around
tho hips, and consequently the effect Is
very bad and utterly riims tho graceful
lines of the figure. The pleated skirts with
the pleats stitched down should be exceed
ingly becoming As they are now to be Been
they .axe vers- ua-lv. bnA , -1 .
only falso ones, and it Is almost Impossible
for a woman to takela. long step In so
leant a skirt. The skirt with inverted box
Pleats at the back must be made with suf
ficient fullness to allow of the graceful
BWeep below the hips. ".-
Tight Waist Exaggerates
Figure Inclined to Stoutness.
The mistake Is made so often by stout
women of having their skirts and waists fit
too tight. The figure does not look slighter
In consequence, but. 00 the contrary, seems
. . V be ""SBerated, whereas a loose
that U to say. an easv flt to -- .
w..,?h?Kl"d!rpleateJ sklrt3 d t loot
well with the pleats open, and yet when
they are stitched too flat they show ever?
nto "" 2BUr ln " m ""PleSt
Long coats ln silk or mohair are worn
X"&M " s ."
mao. , . ..-."'. -oo, and are
PARISIAN SILK SH1R1
ISTS WILL BE SHOWN! SHEPHERD PLlM
NEW FASHION OF USING TWO WIDTHS. OF P' All ON ONE GOWN.
-w ' O-w-.
s ritetaTS. rvs es ,.d .
rb,U -"- them evn TerV1 hot
feather. Th. Idea, to begin with, lethal
they are very useful In protectant the thin
ffUmm,UJc or mU3lln dim and n
t PortUs to wear a much lighter and
elaborate frock In the sweet. Howeve?
L UnltB ot nhite taffeta Is put in. of
course, then they r .!i7. ...'n- of
morns and can do duty lorTk
I'Ong Coats Are Made
in Two Designa
ar. -,-. rv"..ru vefy mart. They
- in on or two different dsi
.two jT " ? 'n".irts.
S-S2SJa"5 and bie beeves .nbiah-'J-
A10 favorite style 1 . .
modified rain coat order, with fitted yokf
&8n,mafla,!,I,iU below th,S-ok?e, straTghi
?5J0:s with' a 3
--.-BU .. xcn is a model which
SnTZ POJUlai' f Wue terproof suX in
..k.. : T ' core
vwm a i snazejRxs
ter" w. --rorunt
;. .: i"uUWi bo mat the effect
of a. Mother Hubbard wrappeV seenw to
bo the principal ens. It 1, t l2?
oiumsy a garmeut to. look Ttrii ..
on a, tan. slender a-. .: vrrr';i,"c
ln black .Uk. "" " "ral aao
1 ,, U " cozia are very smart, es
BSSS 8 dark blue, but thZaSSVow-
tT;i "oeasaniy tho smarteot, be it un-tertood-re
the natural-eoin "
lh ItalBs. of green and white polktiVt!
ted foulard and f.oir,. 1. JJ-u.oi.-
tP .WiTnen ttreTd Si df
-. t,minzB una grapevlno.
beams Outlined With
Pipings of Green.
1Jth!,e?m3 of thcse coaU outlined
rwlth piping Of CTeen nnr! th. Ji " .
jtho same Unes aa thoso already described
although there Is one different mitten'
nor, on th. sacque-coat orto! wWcS
(very smart and -becoming.
Medluin length looso Jackobj to whlt
very smart of white silk, with doth or aS
white mattrlal. Thr o...71 7i or an'
them. "They are sVposTd To beBUit1b!e S
wear with any-sown, even a darkonl bu?
K must be confessed they look badly i,vPr.
ih fZZSTZ. C--nasAU '00 .orp-and
3oW ..r ",a. er,'..'- "cht
,lt 7. 7rr . . uaca wjth
..". vi iuuiwi, piain white; In
' mo pouca-cotted foulards
no mo craze or me moment.
Uso emonjr 'the urn fahirvn. .
aaen coats made
long, which ii.nii ..
llnan rtn,., , .TT -" .
nth n. - T.,r "" r:.'.v1 W. 'but,
uvtu uujin mvm rn thi
Shough thoy are Just about as shapeless
Ibe old-fashioned duster. They at?l
from simply c, a protection to the Vown
tfhen driving or traveling, and do notadd
to the warmth materially.
It la only reasonablo In these days when
jowns are so cosUy, that there should be
tome protection for them from the dust and
jai. and these coats, fortunately, not onlT
pe linen ones Just described Hi,t . .,f.
toes, have sufficient style of their, own not
Pull-Banded Sleeve Is
Bleeves ara so varied In etyla thafevhnr
caauy suited. The fun-
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kute should bo
this,, too. -ig arrancea t-lth n- variniim,
In soft fabrics the'sleeve droops to Turkish
5ts .nln1 ',s e:reeei'nly Ions at th. back.
The bishop slec.e has grown smaller and i
rtl Ply.in jJmo3t tight coat 'sleeve,
draw-n Into tho waist band. This Is the ef
t w ?Ut "e cut ls simplicity Itself and
there la only one seam. Elbow sleeves have
returned to favor, but the lon. clinging:
sleeves of transparent or !a are too
becomlngvto be IgSored.
neiace collar li in -,. . - -
thtrf", - flchu -armens."Then
anrddtlThelronl6' PUt Q fUl1
Oripntnl S.W;,. 'r-T j J
.. -uuu ofeu
PRyjjAlLFRENCH IDEAS IN OUTING SUITS.
With. Tiny. Pin ATacks.
ttaded sleeve Is extenrreJy patrols, S Lc T 4 , dIe.' ,ls -0 El!k- orei'a d
. 2 7,;B'-"?a ;la W Oroil ipiUn, tad 1 corercfl 'by
W 'i.l7 Pl" tui:ks 'tv,lIch look like co'rd
s. There I3 a full front .i ,.,
aPLr 'f S" lace lth a heavy-gul-SlS",1"
arransed as a collar and grad-
br,hh" , uu,vn eacft side of the front. The
? f.6lV0- conred wl Pin tucks. h3
.-. "n.-ntung cuff of the lace.
. -A tupiffwf vi-.. ... -
""o is 01 une delaine., to
ZZrZy a bolcro inaskirt-of summer
--". mi same model would do for lawn.
ni . "onoulard. The opening at tho
- - uiea,in .with-a .!ttlawchemltt of
tucked ,muslin.,or--.lacr which is put on
separately-, and .can be varied.both in color
-Mr a charming demi-tollet bod
Ice Is or soft satin de solo, with a bolero
and sleeves, of tJW0 ic& in the dainty 1 iM tucka t
' v. w f rornj a puC
where loops of soft liberty ribbon serve aa
a pretty bit of contrast, there ls a pendant
drapery of batiste and lace. Oddly enough,
these distinctly summery hats are seldom,
trimmed with flowers. The idea seems to.
be to keep them altogether tublike ln effect'
and not even fancy Jeweled pins are con-
It la really astonishing, though, what lov9
Iy designs, widely different, too. In general!
impression, can be secured by this dainty!
use of embroidery and ribbon. '
If one choose3 a summer frock of rich."
creamy muslin or batiste, showing a design
of either lace or embroidery Incrustation it
is quite possible to have the hat and para-i
sol match exactly. Of course, the same clou.
Introduced ln the collar or gilet of the gown
?"Id-,b."!ed.,n . t facing and
....- .. i ,,aoi. wniie the muslin cov
erings for both should present a graceful ar
rangement of the trimming design
Lace doscn't seei so characteristic or
lingerie hats as difts the newer em.M.
ery. lor lace is used upon all kinds of s
cbapeaux. Embroidery, on the contrary,
s uuc-iy 10 lingerie models, and
j. m -neer. delicate varieties. It I:
vuuoi-.icu nuue as dainty and lovely
So many washable novelties are beln- h
troduccd now that we flnH it jm ?. .
keep pace with them alL One of the most
satisfactory features In this line consists of
washable gloves-not the suede, to which we
--. .u ausiuraeu, out a medium
weight Rlace kid. They are fine and soft'
and hardly distinguishable from ordinary
gloves, yet they' may be washed time after,
time without in the least spoiling their ap
pearance. ' I
aiace. of course, are much smarter than,
suede, and the former require cleaning less,
often than do the softer variety. They are.
more expensive ln the beginning, -j-et theyl
wear longer than the suede, and are alto
gether far more satisfactory.
-, uuiujiasinir inp n- i i.
!-,. i. . ,..".- -." "o-uuuio.
hi 1 , rememoer that they must
f.- m7 .,". '..BC- lT. K tbey a'e the
. 6 l"CJ wul De very apt to
Pi? ;ndMac fter the flrst ashing.
,.T. -1- '. tnougn not new, are,
ery nice for summer wear, yet they lack
the elegance of the kid.
Lukewarm water, into which castlle soap
has been rubbed to make good suds, is the
best for washing these gloves, and unless
S Jf?.,nr,Cd P?n the hanil!- they should
be carefully pulled out anrl lf. 1- .1 k
air until thoroughly drv I
ON EVENING TOILETS.'
.Embroidery continues to decorate In
most eiaDorato fashion the visiting
ana ine evening gown, and a beautiful
ample is a black net evening dress wit:
neminmmea with a raised garland oflack
venei ana cnennie grapes-and grapes, by.
the way. form a popular trimming to soma
of. the new millinery, a toque entirely com-
.posed of this fruit In different colors be
ing" specially successful, sajs the Delinea
tor. Another example of putting fruit oa
a hat 1. shown in a. h.lt of hlarte rrlnnli-
straw which bears a wreath of lemon
leaves round the brim and two or three,
.lemons In their ripe and unripe aspect at
one side. The flower toques continue tn hnM'
our.affectlons; and small wonder, since they j.
------ ---. . .,- wuc ouu 10
BITS OF FEMININITY.
Paris tint. A berthe arrangement of lace
goes around the shoulders and ls finished In
front with a cascade of lace and choux of
Tucked .Model With Trimmings
, very smart tucked model Intended for
taffeta glace, has trimmings otRussIan em-
orolderj- and lace. The bodice 13 made on
a tight lining and the right front crosses
to thO sldA nnrt !j fr-tcn nn - !, -
ne Iront is nit on th Rlnni- a- .-- i-
tucks appear to be run on the slant. The
yoke and collar hanrt nr of Inno -.. .
and a full, cascade of lace runs down the'j
iront. The sleeves are in one length and '
me mess -terminate below h. !.-...
BEAUTY OF THE LINGERIE HAT.
And a Few Timely Words mi
the Washable. Summer Glove.
WHIT-EX FOR THE SUNDAT REPUBLIG
Jljft AH.naa the lingerie. Mouses
fill and frocks which made their
x - debut last season, we now have
the lingerie hat. 'This new mode
probably gets Its name from the dainty way-
in which, the very finest of batiste ernbroid-'
ery and laces are draped and shirred upon
medium" shted plateaux.
The. lingerie iat ls decidedly- dainty and
fhfi and from a" aPParance3 It Is Just .
.- ,, i BU ua sneer muslin and dim
ity dresses. It is not conaned to any one
shape nor Is its style of trimming restricted
Usually however, the flat, slightly cun"ng
imJdspIay an underfaclng of finely
shirred or tucked- batiste, and the equally
-m ""iyeu wiin wide embroidery,
Koman silk sashes are again to be found!
In .the shops. -These will be worn by chll-1
The elbow sleeve ami . - --,-.
have Joined forc(: it,.,- ,,..,. v.. f
in Unen which have an elbow length
ouai k-cv. vitn a blouse and its
ui.uup sieeves ine effect Is very pretty.
A handsome neck nn-t 1- 1-. i s.
" " iocnsia f surrounded by leaves,
flower Itself is ot chased silver, while
leaves are of gold.
i--a3.lu.e s!ace Petticoat Is tucked and-
rnn M-u "3 W,,e JaCe tnr0Ugh Which U
run black ver-et ribbon of the carrcw wldtiT
An ajpaca costume In pale gre-.n
worked on the nhfrt vi-. - ' -...
crpamv volt-- i.t wM . A'Acbby.
ipl -. uaiic. I
verri & " 1
J -. r.
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