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title: 'The St. Louis Republic. (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, July 06, 1902, Magazine Section, Image 42',
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THE REPUBLIC: SUNDAY. JULY 6. 1902.
IDSUMMER FROCKS FOR MY LADY BEAUTIFUL WILL BE NETTED OVER WITH FLUFFY
ARRANGEMENTS OF LACES, EMBROIDERIES AND RIBBONS.
WbHeS&I ' HIJtfjgiK -J- OOWN WITHCHINESE EMBROIDERY. . summer swiss costume: -lillP fWi, ' :-' jSfSi
l&SnSlls, V " -Jfe'! Tailor-Madc Costumes Produced 3 " "s. H--. - H
mIS; rfjC : w - -l?fe?P '. by Best American Manufacturers. ' U " " '- ,rv" ' , '5. i y
i-Kl&S Z-5MP? In close proximity to It. and not les, be- v. i -. ' .. ' ' ' JfcTu 1& I y
JT f63- n:TCg53Sgirr4: l,fjgm&S&finfr' '? W ' coming and tasteful, arc the l'ncn tailor- ' Ag -J: " fTS-ycA- ,afy-2g .&. V
JS"w"","B" "-sHswaMaSEiH5HwMwwawlwliwwwWalw5ww M? ft f m?.?. rnirna Ti"-Ai!iir i. fr Kt Awrl(.in ,- .. - -nw - ' ""b ' ' 'MM"llh " Vifr j
. - ...inn.itrrnmitv l& eWS A .., -...-.- - , -., -.w.. , , .&,- L EWfCT 'i!
- in .1... .l. . .r.k. t.ii4 j-aWici fatiftr manufacturer tjcc raVer 7TA.IKtfy x J
&k enfl dressmaker can ccotrpIifi is here rr preened The besuty of coW W-eTy'
nXJl-Lj of course, is not so apparent tut the cracetdi cntccr lert b the soft KX-Tr O
A Sj 500 HAND PAINTEO COVN
All thai thwart of the slilirtj colonjt fibnt manufacturer lace raVer
an3 dressnakei can ccorrpiih 1 here rcrirer ried The beauty of color
of course, is not so apparent tut ie ccetiil ennteur lert b the foil
fabric the rich raised e V Voidered crds and the twining of 'e and
ribbons tell the sionjf artistic simpiicu elaborate ero-jRh in detail, that
isatonceC'.nnnCrfS The gorn tsa Paquin creasion and as imponed
to be orn dunrBTThe gala season of the American certre of (ashion-
RTUTTES' FOR TIIB SUJfDAT nnPUBIJG I Inserted csrjulslte patterns or lace anil em-
The Eumraer girl, the sweetest and mast I broidery,
feminine of all wom'n. Is -with us again. 1 Aside From Handwork
SO rascmatlns as to bewilder, eo beautlfulljr ;x , n. rilmr
tmiimi1 In -rnhrf-. n.t .m narllmilnrlf t I ViarilllUreS Are i' JlIEy.
A9 may be Imagined, a decided artistic
touch Is chen In this manner to the
dresses. It Is laco and embroidery and em
broidery and lace everywhere one looks.
There are new cordlnss, new flounces,
some hand painted and many dainty needle
work finishes. But a".de from handwork,
the garnitures are entirely of a light and
White Swiss, dotted and embroid red tn
an lnflnlto -variety of shapes and figures,
form the baIs of innumerable beautiful
creations New Swisses are not always
whlti. One notes blues. tan and many
black J. spotted with cmbroidcrrd leaves,
crescents, dots and tleur-de-lls which nerve
to a great extent to diversify the wear of
the multitude of wominl:ind who are pre
ferring such fabrics to the exclusion of all
others. Uners In their delightfully cool
and not so etily soiled colore are durable
as well as extremely comfortable.
Heavy embro dories are used In combina
tion with the lighter fab-ics. They are cm
plojcd as motifs: that Is. they nre cut out
and then appliqurd to light-weight materials
In regular iattcrns, forming ulmpes and
gowned In fabrics that teem particularly to
Jiult her qualities as to be a credit to her
self "and the artist who designed her
Summer time Is the season when styles
era especially fitted to dainty femininity.
Everything fanciful as possible. Thoi
tints mest becoming to her complexion and
her own. peculiar style are everywhere in
evidence. The opportunity to make her ap
parel comfortable and to conform with sum
mer's heat often brings to light charms that
In colder weather must of necessity be hid
den beneath many thicknesses of opaque
fabrics. This summer It is particularly the
opposite of opaque.
The style Is to bs transparent materials
'All fabrics, -whether wool, linen, cotton or
silk, are slashed or cut and netted over
Trith openwork. In hemstitching, lace work
or lacs Inserting, thus producing a striking
and remarkably fasclnatlnz effect.
Fluffy gowns are made or the new artistic
ally painted and printed moussellne de
sole a nd Brussels nets. These materials. In
themselves translucent, ore cut into ara
besque geometrical designs Into -which are
clusters of ornaments, garlands, borders
and other artistic touches.
Figured in Satin Cordings.
These applications aro usually white In
the natural cotton embroidered effect, and
do not add very much to th w e'ght of the
gown, but give a very desirable lacy ex
pression to the costumes they richly adorn.
The most dellcato moufsellnes are figured
in sat'n cordings. carrj'ng out medallion
and other effects. These cordings ore really
-very light in weight, but lend the rich tone
of heavy embroidered outlines
Nearly every material is. however,
brought Into requisition in trimming gowns.
Ribbons nre fringed and then trlmirjed with
narrow lace, which gives a particularly
French ard dainty tono to tho new Idea of
l"ou se. th's Is -where art comes In. Art
in dress Is the adaptation of color, fabric
and accessories to produce effects of beauty
of outline as well ns affording partlcularly
attractlvo and harmonious combinations
milted to complexion, figure and other at
tributes as the main Idea, of good style.
The tendency of this summer's st) les Is
toward graceful outl'ne. This will be easily
noted when seaming the stvlcs set before
you. The hard-painted Parisian costume,
created In the ateliers of one of the world's
FOUR GENERATIONS OF THE TALBOT FAMILY.
ttsw t it Kmt z-ammmirr"ix ir-s. -
in 1 itmm in 1 -
) III I' 1 Ms ilHM nil i II ' MM . I'WII w
fek s iCl im ' v3& jsssWftfr af fit !SBBBBBSsssssss9ssssfeBBsssspBssff7.ssBlE 9Bv sossssssVC C sss&tfV W fl-sK ET nf ic9f ssssssW
greatest pslnter", cost nearly 1S.PW frencs.
in our mono 13.5 ). to land on thce shores.
Tailor-JIade Costumes Produced
by Best American Manufacturers.
In close proximity to it. and not less be
coming and tasteful, arc the l'ncn tailor
made gowns p-oducrJ b the best American
rranufacturer. Any one of these can be
bought In anj firt-c!as dry goods store at
JiS-W. Thee contrails in woman's near are
not so greaj In effect as In price Thoe
who would wear the magnificent Jewels and
gorgeous fabrics may no: appear nearly so
stylish as the more Ix-autiful and jet les
wealthy womsn who graces the less expen
s've lawn, organdy and linen costume. Her
Indlvldutljty gives It expression and It
therebv tecomes a thing nf beauty We par
tlcularj.' mphas xe thr-, ar'nces Hnd
have carefu'lv eUcttil to show these conns
upon the same attractive my !
Tho gr at point of the summer mode Is
not so much In general outline as It Is In
effctlve and artistic construction. The
Parisian modistes are still sti.l-.ing the art
galleries of all Uurope for further Fugges
tlons as to novel possibilities. It is a very
patent fact that most of the style emanates
from these galleries.
Then, too, portrait pointers and great
artists -a ho make Paris their permanent
home nre forever suggesting splendid ldeai
to their favorite France Th-y "tak hnW
of the woman whoFe contradi -torj gowning
constantly irritates their artistic sensibili
ties and literally force her to attire herf-.lt
Modes Drawn by Greatest
Artists of the Past.
They recommend modes drawn from the
best examples cf the greatest artists of the
past. They advl the ruman with the
Grecian outlire how certain styles of colf
furo are most becoming t h-r. the Ania
luslan tjpo Is tre-ted uonrdirg to Its P-
cuharItit- In the Tulnc im-- they im
phas ze local color. The tru'y Calllc maid
en they pose and pcl so a- to bring out
her best points of feature. complx!on and
character.stics of lj4-ure T refroni is
drawn a 't e for th.jse women who look
upon any one of these prxm.nent women
A $500 DOUQET CREATION.
"In rJepJctlBg the newest ird most ammc fornj. we io side by side
tee ben that Pans offers with the arerajre that Arsenc prodoces. All
these gowns, of coarse, are bought by Ar-encass. but the arerage is oot
the genuine imported costu-re. tbot-gh it is still often more to our uite
and more becoming Tors is an exquisite pineapple cmb'Oidered silk with
handsome un lace contrast and rte-ccJprrd ribbc-a Sniiics.
of the fashion world as their particular
The summer styles, ns far as Paris Is
concerned, htve been drawn from the early
per-odsof this centi.O'. ami the 'fli-t jean cf
the eighteenth centurj. The revival
of all these antique modes j-oftenrd
and modulated by mo-lern methods pro
duces an era of dres almost entirely new.
Very rule. excpt as to the troV"ugs--tlon
of color and gen'nl outline. inotl-e-ab'o
whereby this gowning might be char
asttrlzed as that of a pt er-h.
The woman of to-!ay will n-1 wetr pnf
nlers nnd bustles; she won't sttnd padding
exct-pt where her figure Is deficit nt. Thre
arc no voluminous folds, rutls and other
ngure-destrojlng nrrangem-nt. no MIks
gathered on full at the waist, with pointed
bodies back and front.
Sorno of the stjles which are particularly
suitnl to the French woman are imposisibra
for adoption bj her American sluer.
Amoiitan St les Simulated
by Knn.ioan Women.
In designing for the American women
thero are hips to 1 considered, which Jo
not xlst with the Parisian. Po the m des
of to-day must suit the majorltj. and the
majority who spend freely are Amerlcacs.
To-day what the American wears Is sim
ulated by her European sisters. Therefore,
we have styles for New York rather than
Parisian criticism. They are American to
a certain extent, however French they may
be made, and comprise features that aro
adaptable to our women, who are neat and
practical as well as artistic
The- hats rre distinctly new. Tou remem
ber our telling j'ou about green, and tha
tremendous rage existing throughout tho
cuuntry for thli color.
There are new modes. I.'AncIalse. which
are re-tilv an thing but Kngllsh. except
that, the crowns aro beef-eater tarns There
are flaln-oroughs. Itomneys. ltjnohl.
Scotch bonnets and English garden hat-",
with a great growing tenlencj to wear
gren. ml and bluo tartans and English
A favnrite form for pins and ornaments
Is Hncl'sh colonial, particulirly Canadian
enamels altogether n revv 'rl- of orna
ments well adapted for rarn'val and cor
onation purpose?, emphas z.ng old Iigllsh
of coure. the full impress of the Jollifi
cation which has set ail !oa n mil. and
to which nearly all tN fasMonable -world
paid ion attention. Is not fully devils
House Gown With Chinese
Embroidery Worked by Hand.
The Grand Prix Is still In mind, and Its
artistic productions purely French witn a
tirgo of Russian tn combination, as vet
stands before tho world as tho latest fash
In tho meantime wa are pavl-g strictest
attention to our own remarkable Newport
season, which In future time we hope tr
fee the fashionable center of nations. Tha
beautiful modern palace, with their fsit
PHsrfnc equipments that line tho shores of
the Sound and tho Eastern coast, ara -with-
out parallel in the world. Ail that Is an
cient tint money can luy. all that Is mod
ern and monej can srai-ply. is therein con
tained, placed un Ir the- guldanco of mas
ter hands and exquisite taste Naturally
the gowning sWecte.1 f r the adornment of
womankind who grirv, such surroundings
Is of tho Hghet p" "-aMo order We show
a houo gown with the nrr Chinese cm
brolderv. nil bard ir )r. recentlv imported
from Pari st a f :'ii ius cost. This Is but
one of tie manv new tjpes which Damo
Fashion is cr' tttn
CoprrUfct. D; by V- Eccn-odst Camera.
romance of woman's HAiR.xNEf ZEALAND VOLCANOES ACTIVE
ITary TalboT, Go years oTtl; Eucy ItoliTer, 21 years ol age; 'Ella T. Kcwllngs, 23 years old; Mary 'C. Row
' . lings, 2 years old.
Ifpeelal Cnrrerpondeaee of The Sunday RerabU
-rort scott, ivas.. juiy 4 ji tne compara
tively frequent Instances of a person liv
ing to sab representatives of the fourth gen-
eratlpn of his cr her family, one of the most
Interesting probably Is that of Mrs. Mary
Talbot of Parsons. She has had this pho
tograph taken with her daughter. Mrs.
I.ucy Kohler of Parsons; her granddaugh
ter, Mrs. Ella T. RawUngs of Fort Scott,
nnd her great-granddaughter, Mary C
Rawllngs of this city. The remarkable fact
In connection with this family group is that
there Is Just twenty-one years difference. a
their ages, as they graduate down to youth.
Mrs. Talbot Is 63 j-ears old. her daughter is
jears of age. her granddaughter Is 3
vears old and her great-granddaughter Is
2 j ears old. Mrs. Talbot's husband Is liv
ing and Is an active business man.
written rort Tun sl-ntiat nErcnuc.
"Not ten joke of oxen have the power
to draw us like a woman's hair," writes
Longfellow, and hlstorj- over and aaln has
proved this statement. The golden locks
cf Helen Eet Greece aflame, and the fair
tresses of Rosamord botrajel Queen Elea
nor. The Greeks had an Idea, shared by
tho Romans, that life would not quit the
body of a victim till a lock of hair had
been first cut from the head and given to
Prorerplne. so we read that when Alcst:s
was about to die as a voluntary sacrifice
for her husband. Thanatos first ut off a
lock cf her hair fcr the Qucn of Pluto
There is a grand storj told about the su
preme devotion di-piajed hj- the women of
Carthage When their city was besieged
by the Romans, rores were needed, but as
there was no tiax to make thent in the
citj-. the women, headed by their heroic
Queen, came to the rescue. Thej- one a""4
all cut off their glorious tresses and made
ropes cut of their hair.
The famous Sarah Jennings, wife of the
great Duke of Marlborough, had the most
lovely auburn ringlets. One da). In a
violent fit of temper with her husband. he
cut eft her beautiful tresses to annoj htm.
for the Duke took the greatest pride In
Ms wife's hair. Years afterward', when
the Duke was dead, a sealed box was found
In his private csb'net. and written outside
were these words. "My greatest treasure."
Those who open'd It expected to find vaiu
ablo papers or rare gems, but Instead they
found a wealth of auburn curls treasured
by the dead man. perhaps, beyond their
George Sand, after she had quarrePd
with Alfred de Musstt. made s veral
vain efforts to revive the famous 'lalsvn:
the poet refused, however, to answer her i
letters. As a final appeal the unhappy I
woman cut off all the beautiful hair de I
Mussel had so often raved over, and sent I
it to him as a last overture. Alas! the I
beautiful perfumed hair awoke no thrill In I
the poet's heart and the sacrifice was nuide
Votive offerings have often been made
cf hair. This Is a custom shtred by all races
and all faiths, and the ilea that to give a
lock of hair to a lover or friend Is crj- un
lucky Is also prevalent about all quarters
of the clobe.
Tbc famous Lady Godlva had a rival In
the person of the Tenth Century Vn Ast
iej. an actress, ard wife of "Old Aslle "
When this lady stofd up her Itixurant
flaxen hair fell to her feet and covered her
like a thick veil Jnhann Muyo. the Ger
man painter, bad a 1-oanl which touched
thf ground when he strnd up. and Master
John Kililngworther. who was famous, at
the court of Ivan the T'rrible. lr KiiU
had a fair teard 5 feet : inches long
The Parthians. the Persians, the Gre K
and the Gauls all considered long hair
a notable honcr ami short ha'r a mark of
thralldom. The Franks and ancient Gr
macs hrld the rarr.e Idea.
Rut perhars the m st romantls story nf
woman's hair. If also one of the mot gr-r.-nome.
Is the story of the hair of Elizabeth
Slddnl. the wife of the poet-painter Danu
Gabriel Itossclti. He had written peem
In her honor during the short period of
their mnrr'ed life, and when she died b
took Into the death chamber the album
Into which he had copl'd .is poetic tnb
uts. and addressing the dead woman n
her coffin, he said. "These were rvritt i
to joti. and ou must take them w'tti jou'
With this he put the manuscript volume
against her cheek, and wrapped It round
with her beautiful hair, which, as his pic
tures rtiow. was leng and auburn.
The dead woman was fourteen jcars In
her grave when Rossettrs Mends prevailed
upon him to have th coffin exjiumed in
order that the poems, of which there was
no other copy, might be published.
After many preparations the grave was
opened nt night, by the light of torches
under the supervision of one of Rossettl s
friends. When the lid of the coffin was
taken off, it was found impossible to re
move the book without removing the hair
also, for It had grown In the grave and
wrapped Itself arourd and even wound
itself through the pages of the decaying
Eventually, both the hair and the book
wniTa-EK fou TiiRsrsnw Rnrt-Bijc.
Cable advices from New Zealand report
that In the lint lake district, tn the Inte
rior of the Northern Kami, a large volume
of smoke is rising from the enter of Mount
Tanwcra. and that the natives. In great
consternation, fear anothsr violent outburst
of the- oitanei.
It Is now sixteen years dtic'' Tarawern.
gavo the New Zenlan-lers a sample of its
lesoteting power The mountain lies in
tho ml id!" of the farrctis wonderland of
noiilng gejrs. and the havoc cau-sM by
th eruption r i Is still so fresh in tho
minds of the natives that all dwellers with
in the danger range will put the worst con
struction on the fresh and threatening dem
onstrations. Mount Tnrawera was the central figure
in one of th" roost awful convulsions of
nature on record, when It tfmi to all
b holders that the Judgment day had com.
Theo new signs of aetlvlty In the bonis of
th-it mountain aro omlnious for two re-i-sms,
first, becauso the thoughts of a ner
vous world are directed toward the appall
ng catastrophe to the islands of the Carlh
nean Sea. and watching with great anxiety
he news of rrympathetlc disturbances cf
volcanic ccnes .n other part of the globe,
and. secondly, because of the fatal name
Tarawera already bears and Its prrpainml
menace as th chief mountain escape v'Xlv
for the- vast volcanic region over which It
It I no exageratlon to say that nowhero
in the fac of the earth Is there- so lorg
in area of prptual agitation. It is knonn
n the Wonderland of the Pacific, where
Dame Nature has a combination ,of boiling
caldron ami chemical laboratory on a most
Hupendous sca!. The district Is about 1V
miles lorg. betwen the extreme points.
White Inland on the east and Mount Ton
gariro on the west, and fully 20) miles
wide. Tamwera lies as the northern sen
tinel over thin laboratory, while Mount Ton
gariro star)s guard at the southern end.
and tht- two extreme points have always
been In more rr Ii active eruption. Tho
last time that T.-neariro broke loose was
in July. IS7I. wh. n great tiames lvucd from
the crater and violent explosions were
h-anl as far as" T-iiiransa. Tariwri came
along with Its demonstration In tho early
morning of Juno 1. I'M.
Over this entire district is x continuous
series of volcanic agitati- n. The forces of.
nature ore never silent. Breaking tho
earth" apparently -g shell crust, hot
springs and gevir-rs . f various altitudes,
feeding Inke" and tributaries where the na
tives cook thlr meals, can be seen on end
less dress par ide.
Gccsc That Lay Golden Eggs.
Once upon a tlmo there wis a promoter
who owned a cmnvn. everydav goose, who
Hid tho usual, ordiinry gnoso eggs. He
conceived the schema of ttjndlcating tho
goes tn a goid-eg basis, and proceeded
He informed tho t-usting public that soon
his gooso would Inv an egg cf gold each
day. and offered for salo stork In tho Gold
en Gewje Ejg Company, limited, at bedrock
price" There i a witd rash for tho
stock, ami tho promoter MKldenly found
He continued to sell the stock as long as
there were bujers. for ho dhl not want to
kill tho corw that laid tho egg. His goose
continued the same ordinary fowl as be
fore. Moral There are featherless gctse, that
lay golden egg-
were returned to RoscttL The one ho
placed aside among Ms most acr-M .
sessions, and it remained with h'm to the
day of his death, a long rich tress of goMen
hair, as fresh as In life. The other was
carefully restored In the parts where It had
suffered Injury from Its long xojvum la
the grave, and afte-wards published under
the general title. "Pcems." As ever) body
knows, the Imok made a tremendous im
pression and created for the world a new
poet. But perhaps the poet himself.
never entirely forgave the ambition which
had tempted h'm to what In some moments
ho regarded us an act of desecration.