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'-STC.- " "' S'' tif '''"' ". " -1 S-!T iTJ h M 'THE REPUBLIC: SUNDAY. MftRCH 8, 1903. WALKING S SI LOU Sir HITS THAT ARE NOW SHOWN II Hey Differ From Earlier Styles to Important Details Stole Froit and the Collarless Neck the LATE' SPRING H K 4 m- fBBBBBBLBBBVBBssLBBBBBBBBsBBBBr .bBIBBBRsbbbbbw. 3k i vmBBBBBB Pftr i " '' 3"Bsbbbbbbbbbt9bl AbbsVBASBBBBBBBBBBBBBsI 9ssrBBAtBsBs .sflBBBBBBBA BBsJr m- j3' flBBBsvBA bbbbbbbbubbbbbbHVbW HiMHMRwi"V!K bbbTb , '' bbtE jhtrw.. jjRH 5 BJBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBRr iT-A Jwfo5 v5w tWAa EibbBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBI "r HPiBX WJ jl if V 4" j, BRY3BBBBBRWllBBBBBBBBEjBRrsiVlsoL fcV glxgfiy fc, Kk TbbbbbbBwB y 5 j a 7BRr ts9jRSPjBBK si AbM bbbbbv. BBbYAb y "!v7iiMBK'f 'Sk5 bctBBsF 4mP WBBBr BBBBBBTwsrBsmlMsE5WOffBBsw isswRassssBsisssBBBBBissvTsBssVtf r ,yif AwAr T1 x.BBWBIBItfcj'iq xA mSqbJSi3S vV 0 bbr'.bbb3Bbsw A SflsKYrt Bff BgUHWiWWBBBrfSgMBHgtM JTJBJBSBMlBBfKiSKl? 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';-..,- 'BBBRMrMBBI.. f I- ;' CBBBEmBkf IP d ? 'jBBBBBtewOHBBS Vi''-TBBBB5Bl V avbbbbbbbbHSbrIebbbbbbb it . BBBBHE3v?SkJXAM fk bFbbbbbbbbMWbQbbbbbbbI--' P- bbbH - 1 I JbbbbbbbPHbbb i a, A A MIPBBBRBBBSMHirt JV BBBBBBBBBBBnHBPQV . am. I'fti8, v?f?ABBBBABBAw6KSsB9isMw v-'?5AbP f V b-;- 'v'.ABBBBBBBBHErJpslllarF k.V k..f - --t--tL yij jBBBAMBBBAwBaf'1" g?lffffiBBBRll r w ViKiv ss -- :i J3BBPBBBBBBlE!El3BlawBBBBi t'BklJ.-f'-,w-iv" t r -; BBBBAwS!i8?iAaBBB JL1A ' i vT. 'BBBBPJKEWaHSHRBr y . -'!-'-. ''- j?.i ir;-:t'BBBBAMW5ligv4MvtrB3aBr 4 jmf t :vM- .BBBBQg?$ffi!iSiiBiSM .y W t-.,; r 5 4 4-i;0" BJBjBiSealgaMSyBBRl ,m &&?&$ -ftMs. f f BBBffialSfBBBM mi'Afiif 7$M ' '""rA'i- -S ABBAWiilaAwBBM Fl V iC; & ?:. MrT BBffili(BBBl 4'4' --, --- ?'':? T-Mii? 'slSIBBBBBAmEfiBBi 4flf -4!bbbbbbKMbbI f- -:;, " r bbbHfbV J M'i rfflRBBBBBBBBRBRV iS?4y', ?? v'?JIf'sA' r"?" "&7 v 'viv .BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBeKRRlBBBRlsBOBBBBBn Kfr ,V, viyV-i. 'V ? xWtriCj5 Jrw BBBBBBBBBBBBBVJRRWlEtSVBBBBvraBBBBBB iBK-vyiiWi " Wtt l-VBBBBBBBMs9BRRBBBl iRW' v:M4 -bbbbbbbbrbbbbbaI B""BBa2!2z2iil t'H? kJgmr WRITTEK TOR THE SUNDAY ItnrUBMC It Is no easy matter this selecting of a -walking suit for the last spring1 reason At tractive as the first styles nere. Dame Fashion has had a charce to co oer them carefully and select the very best and most practical. ' She makes little impro omenta here and there as she sees lit. and jet as near per fection as possible. Almost a case of elid ing refined gold. It Is one of these Improved sty'cs that the up-to-date girl Is going to select, and It li her object, alxne all else, to get something . that will be absolutely new and look dif ferent from the mode of the early s-ason Much eld vrill bo glen her here In ma terial. The suit intended for April and Miyiwfir must of necessity be of a lighter texture than that Intended for February and' March. flNtbrlcs tvU run to light-weight chet lots, TAohatr BlcfUennes. Lan&downe. thin grades f Jot broadcloth and ladles' cloth, loosely fwoi en anoy mixtures, thin cameVs-halr - "and slbellne effecta, ttamlnes and wool crashes. Tha black Idea, by the wav. will be car ried out throughout the entire gamut of mlladl's costuming. The all-black suit of fine broadcloth, trimmed simply with rtlk braid, will bo one of the swellest Ideas of the season. A dark-blue scheme built on the same lines Is also very modish. Invisible plaids in mannish effects are considered quite up to date, these running to greens, browns and the like. NOVEL 'TEPPER AND SALT" COMBINATIONS. The light-colored mixtures on the pepper and salt order have their uses and for cer tain purposes are absolutely correct. Solid light colors, too, are In evidence, especially In goods of the ertamlne description. la plaids, blue and green combinations are II the go, the blue usually serving as body color. With regard to cut, the biggest noieCty of the season Is not, to coin an Irish bull, a novelty at all. but was brought out first last season. It Is only this spring, however, that it Is being generally worn and recog nlzed. This Is the tunlo or Grecian skirt. It con sists In a superposed portion tacked on to the back of the garment from the waistline to a point slightly above the knees. It Is allowed to hang very f ull, giving a decidedly original and striking aspect to the garment. In the front the skirt may be perfectly plain, though more frequently It Is adorned, at least to a certain extent. The skirt opening at the bottom In In verted box plaits is seen quite a little. In many of the more dressy numbers these plaits are held together by self colored silk bands tacked down at either end by a silk or pearl button. The plaited skirt Is somewhat In evidence, particularly In smooth materials. In which it shows the garment otherwise unadorned. SKIRTS ARE ADORNED WITH SELF-MATERIALS. A pretty new Idea Is the double skirt. The overpcrtlon comes to a point somewhat above the knees and has tho effect of be lnc the skirt of a long jacket. Many of the skirts are heavily adorned with superimposed portions of self-material applied in a variety of places and styles. The particularly distinguishing features of the jackets of the suits are the collar less' necks and the fancy stole fronts. The square-cut neck Is one of the most strik ing styles. It is edged with heavy cord or braid. A more common form, not alone con fined to the square nect; Is the broad ap plication of fancily colored cloth or can vas, this same idea being also carried out in the gauntlet cuffs. As regards the stoles, their variety is infinite. Of self-materlaVln the general run, they are sombtlmes of colored cloth to match the collar, being in one piece wl'i It. Another style shows the stole of black silk braid or may be simply terminated with Jt. The former is the more orglnal and unique. The little self-cape over the shoulders Jm much in evidence is many of the popu. Jar models. This, ss s rule, is slightly stiffened with i feithrbonc or some such kindred material at tne Dase, me ease iainng iree ana iuoso over the shoulders. Man of the Jackets show the full, blousj front, and the majority have at leant a slight fullness at that point, as Is also the postilion back, the tabs of self or fancy material A tt;le of Jacket that Is considered very fashionable this season Is the long skirted effect, reaching almost to the knees In the extreme model More conservative cuts do not show it as long, and these arc really the most popular. Suits of this description are little given to trimming or adornment. Rough goods In fancy light mixtures are the preferred materials. ROUGH GOODS IN FANCY LIGHT MIXTURES ' A cry practical jet wonderfully pleasing suit of this description is of rough finished men's suiting In a gray mixture. The jacket shows a mannish collar of velvet with small Belf-lapels. It is cut single breasted with slight blouse effect In the front. Tight at the waistline, the belt has the broad V effect to give the garment the stylish. Iong-wnlsted appearance. Below the waist the jacket falls plain and free, but not too full, to a point some dis tance aboe the knees. In the back the coat Is tight-fitting and without ornament, except for twe sus-pender-llko box plaits that start from the extreme bottom of the garment on either side of the front and extend up over the shoulders and all the way down the back. The sleeves of this coat are unusually tight, showing a slight fullness only on the shoulders and on the under side of the arm Just above the cuffs These cuffs are of self-material, all Etitched, and are hooked together on the under side, where they show a curve that terminates In a point. 8KIRT CUT TO ESCAPE THE GROUND. The skirt Is cut rather scant. Just full enough for comfort In walking, and is mads to Just escape the ground. Tho same style of box plaits that adorn tho Jacket also trim the skirt, which shows them placed rather close together, so that there are sev en In all. , A suit of this description can be r-ad at s very reasonable figure, and it is Just the thing for spring walking wear. A ery attractive and thoroughly up-to- date prln"- suit la In black broadcloth. The Jacket terminates at the waistline in a, pointed front, partly concealed by an over hanging stole. This stole, which also forms the collar. Is nearly four Inches wide at the neck, but narrows slightly as it approaches the rounding ends. It Is edged with silk bind ing and adorned with a band of fancy white silk braid reposing on an application of the same Bilk that binds the stole. This silk Is applied on the garment rather freely In the form of braid and tabs, there being four little tabs on either side of the stole just below the shoulders. These are held down by pearl buttons, The sleeve Is a creation by Itself. Made of self -material, a superposed portion is cut away in rounding fashion from the shoul der and terminates at the elbow on the under side In a point. The whole is edged with a double row of the silk braid, UNDERSLEEVE IS MADE VERT FULL. The under or real sleeve Is made very full, attaining this fullness In a graduated manner and opening up over an under por tion also of self-material, which is bridged over by silk tabs caught down at either end by pearl buttons. This fullness terminates In a pouth-Uke effect Just above the cuff. The cult is of plain cloth edged with the silk braid. The skirt is made rather full and shows flared openings at the bottom. These, however, are partially held together by silk tabs. Every seam, of the garment is covered with silk braid. Altogether the suit is a very practical, striking and reasonable af fair for spring use. The etamlne costume is one of the nret- tiest and daintiest, effects for spring. There' TiSD FRETTY MODE really different from what she has been wearing. Light tans, and even creams, are consid ered very stylish, while the woman who wants something a bit more quiet and dark will be most likely to select a pretty me dium brown or a royal blue. The ecru shade, however, is one of the fashionable colors of the season, and in these etamlnes are particularly popular. Quite an Idea is to trim an ecru-colored etamlne suit with medallions of self-colored lace. An ecru-colored etamlne suit built on rather original, but withal, absolutely styl ish; lines shows a double box plait directly In the front, the narrower one being on top of the other. LOOSE PLAITS GIVE Is something so very 'Vpringy" about It that I STYLISH STOLE EFFECT. it meets with tremendous favor from the As it approaches the waist line the gar woman who wants iomethtnr that looks) ment curves into the figure, but the plaits hang free to give the stylish stole effect, extending slightly below the waist line. The overplalt Is the larger by some Z Inches. The ends of both are trimmed with narrow bands of lace. The garment opens directly in the middle of the plaits, being looped. The opening is adorned, however, with a double row of fancy metal buttons. The neck is cut square and rather low a unique reminder of the Mary Stuart mode. This opening Is edged with a double band of the same Isce that trims the stoIeHko front. The sleeves show a decided fullness Just above the cuff, which is tight and is also lace trimmed. In the skirt the double-box-plait effect Is also carried oj one at cither I In these thai ifeetly in front and Ps srmnla. f earw rled out. the over one only extending to the bottom of the garment. Copyright, 1803, by the Economiit Canwrs. Why Electric Light Is Costly. While the electric motor Is rapidly re placing all other methods of power trans mission and distribution, due to its greater economy, electric power when used a3 a source of light is still at a disadvantage re garding economy, sas Charles P. Stein metx In The Electrical World and Engineer. That Is, as a rule, electric power Is mora expensive than gas or kerosene, and the extenslv e use of electric- light Is due rather to Its greater convenience, reliability and cleanllne-s than to Its economy. This follows from the fact that the effi ciency of producing light from electric fiovver is extremely low-, below 10 per cent n the most efficient carbon arc lamp and something like 3 per cent In the incandes cent lamp and the Xernst lamp. T fa ntitrlnim. thpn. fhnr ff thA fnMnv of light production could be raised to figures ' even nan as mgn as wax 01 power produc tion, the electric light would sweep every other iUumlnant out of existence by it greater economy, . Profanation of theM White House Sideboard WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC. A quarter of a century ago. when Hajes was President, certain otmg ladles of Cin cinnati offered to Mrs. Haj.es a masnlficrnt mahogan sideboard as a token of their ap preciation of her action in barring wine from the White Houe. Two of the denors subsequently became the wives of distinguished men Bellamy Storer, our Ambassador to Austria-Hungary, and William Taft. Civil Governor of the Philippines. The others were jouns' women of social pron-Inence, and all pf them were ardent advocates of prohibition. There was at Art a question as t the ad vlsablllty of accepting the girt. The Presi dent, whoever he may be. is always beet by well-meaning people who are anxious, for one reason or another, to bestow pres ents upon him or upon his wife. But It was finally decided to nccept. and the sideboard was shipped to Washington, where It wai duly Installed in the prlvato dlring-room of the executive mansion. The article of furniture wns very large and of a most massive description. About 8 feet In length. It weighed not far from a ton. and Its carvings were elaborate and beautiful On the front, below, was the An orlcan eagle In high relief, perched upon a chleld bearing the Stars and Stripes the coat of arms of the United State, in fact, slightly modified. In the middle of the back. was a largo and very fine plate-gt.is-a mir ror. Through a series of administration the sideboard preserved Its place In the private dining-room, and nobody Imagined that the time would ever arrive when it would be disturbed. In a sense. It fell from Its high estate after the Hayeses left the White House, and, though Its drawers were U9.;d chiefly to hold silverware, many a bottle of charr.pagno and other warm stuff disap proved by the Woman's Christian Temper ance Union was permitted to repose upon it, while, in the cupboards In the lower part decanters were conen!entIy stored. During the administration of Chester A. Arthur. If common report doe not err, tho good old mahogany sideboard witnessed not a few rousing times and supplied a deal of good cheer. This was bad enough, but worse, far worse, was to come. Congress decided that the White House needed to bo made over again, and In the reign of Roosevelt the In ward parts of the historic mansion were completely torn out, everything being "done over." and whatever was old. Including the furniture, being wiped out or banished. The sideboard, together with a great quantltv of other material, went to auction a few das ago, and this particular article of virtue was sold how painful Is the tale! to the keeper of a beer garden. The beer garden, man who runs a saloon and open-air concert hall In Washington knew a good thing when he saw one. He paid tSS for the sideboard, and prompt ly had It conveyed In a van to his place of business, where It was hoisted in through a window in sections. Fortunately for him It was Just the size for a bar of the modern and up-to-date "buffet" style. The customer steps up to the buffet and orders what he wants of the bartender who, arrayed in a neat white jacket, stands in front of and not behind the sideboard. It costs so mors to take a drink ia this way and It Is much more swell, don't you know. The S3 piid by the beer garden proprietor was less than the mere wood in the side board cost the joung ladles of Cincinnati. Ohviouslj-. then; tho purchase was a bar gain But Imagine, if ou can. the horror of the surviving donors and of numerous oU-cr persons when the news of the fate of the historic piece of furniture was wired over the country. John R. McLean, proprietor of the Cin cinnati Enquirer, went directly to the keep er of the beer garden and offered him J8J0 fo- tr-e sideboard an advance of 103 per cent on the purchase price. The response wis a polite refusal. The saloon man said that he could make more money out of It In other wajs. Colonel Webb Hayes, IT. a A., who hap pened to be In Washington; went to tho boer garden and made an offer for tha sideboard. He felt that his family name was mixed up In the matter, and was anxious to rescue the relic from the threatened prof anation. But It was useless. The saloonkeeper told him that, seelnc that he was a son of President Hayes, he would let him have the sideboard fo? &et: but it was obvious that the price waV tol tended to be prohibitive. Its nresent nwnt iImImm. ,. . take the pieco of rurnlture for business Bur- .. . ... u,lus rmr. at St, LoulS. where ho expects it to serve as t blTsd vertiscment. a SHATTERED DREAM OF AN ARDENT WOOER. To-night, as I light my pipe, I u, think ing of a match I did not strike, , When I first met her. Evelyn Vane was as pretty as a picture. She had soft brown eyes and hair of the spun-gold variety Her complexion was as perfect as healthhap- p'nesa and sarsaparilla could make If her figure exquisite. She U older now.' bjt that's another story. My attention soon' attracted her atten tion, ns T mmtif It . i."" "en :," , v : " oo. ana ore bleak December afternoon, Arraying myself In Durole and fln ii. hT' seir shirt waist. Tremulously, ardently. ICon fessed my passion. Evelyn rmii coldly; then, gently oeSsKt ta my prospective embrace, in the lowf ,we? ZEFZPtXF vbich hauot - i"Sor weks'" he murmured. "I have no heart, but even gratitude haTi,? !J cSelLV,lf,.mZ",f t man who knees. ThaTls the Tumul" "" " at "Another dream shattered!" I wailed in- nTheVplesetel -A All of which goes to show t m -w n . M j 6 L t lt sitMmhisimmMdk "IMdAM .JV i- -.tiiiw! . tt.-.. ?- ?., ,??; j&hs&?)L JtJt-rfV'sf i .X yjil . . i . K'??''PSr5'i .- Is! -2T3SK-S.i J &&&&$N&iS2. L.ctm'" -i-2