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Smart autumn coats )NEW AND FAMILIAR FEATURES i IN LATEST MODELS. r or Home Sewing the Double-Breast- td Model it Easily Followed and Makes a Very Effective Garment. ' Autumn coats are appearing now In reat numbers, and there is a great jtendency in the long ones toward a difference of length between the front iand the back. The old baetle cut, with the fronts rounding up into a V 'opening, and the back like a deep scal lop, is getting considerable attention, 'this design being shown among the three-quarter models. As the style is omewhat more dressy than the fconger coats with straight bottom, the beetle-back model is made up in he finer coatings, with silk linings, or else In two-toned plaid wools with a facing in the gayer color. The dres sier of the beetle coats, those of silk, satin, poplin and lace and chiffon combined are, of course, for the finest wear, but in spite of the fact that the wool ones are for practical use the sleeves of these are rarely quite to the wrist, and there are other very co quettish details, huge buttons in the lining color being among them. If the bride-to-be expects to have rather a useful traveling gown of cloth or serge she would do well to try on one of these checked or plaid .wool coats in harmonizing colors, for Fashion's Fgricj An exquisite combination is a gown of cream voile with a deep hem, gir ile and cuffs of cerise satin. Brown and green are most harmo niously blended in a frock of green shaded taffeta and brown chiffon. In no case must a costume be over trimmed. We look now for the lines and fit, rather than the decoration. Shadow lace, either in white, cream or dyed to match the gown, is much use3 on the soft, shimmery taffetas. All-white handbags and parasols and beads, buckles and rings are en tirely new. There is a great vogue Xor this snowy effect. Feathers are favored beyond all other trimmings for the dress hat No price seems too extravagant to invest in these hat trimmings. Black in combination with apple green is approved by makers of de lectable gowns for afternoon dresses. In satin this shade of green is espe cially pretty. Open Air Frocks. One or two very smart open-air Crocks will be worn soon, particularly a coat and skirt of linen, arranged in cream and saxe blue stripes, with a deep purple straw hat and a long quill. Very smart also Is a white cashmere opening at the neck, with a short turndown collar of crepe meteor, and fastening with buttons covered with crepe. It has pockets at the side, 'buttoned in the lame manner, and is finished with a white patent leather Ifcelt and a whit hat as part of the skirt would show the coat color would need to match. For home sewing one such model is shown in the ilustration, which is of green and black Scotch check with a plain facing of the green. The coat is slightly double-breasted and fastened to the neck, where it is finished with a military collar. When this is thrown back, the lining form contrasting collar and revers, but this part of the coat is capable of a different arrange ment, if liked, as is shown by the small view of the model, which em ploys a separate goods for the collar and cuffs. The sleeves are of the loose sort approved for' the style, the lining forming the cuffs, and the pock ets are of the patch sort, which are so easy for the home dressmaker to put on. If liked, this model could be used for the coat of a suit in a rough wool, and it would be very handsome and useful if it were of black satin out lined with silk braid or finished with a puffing of the same. The smarter coat might need to have the sleeves shortened a little, for wrist-length sleeves are rarely used for the smarter wraps. The double-faced wools are shown in all of the big shops at prices that vary according to the quality of the goods, but as the fabrics are all wide, very little would be needed for such a wrap. Ready made the gar ment would cost from twenty dollars up to fifty, although there are always cheap coats in the latest styles, and if one is lucky enough to find a good fit and color in one of these the cheap coat is sometimes very satisfactory. The home making of a coat is not to be advised unless the sewer pos- sesseß the skill to give it the neatest tailored stamp, and she would, be sides, be much helped if she had the heavier pressing done by a tailor, as feminine strength is scarcely ade quate to the output needed. MARY DEAN. CARE OF THE SILK UMBRELLA Usually Disappointing In Its Wear Be cause It Has Not Received Proper Care. A silk umbrella seldom receives the proper care, and consequently is usu ally disappointing in its wear. A soft silk wears the best, with a carved or natural wood handle, although silver, gold, ivory, Dresden china, etc., are all used. A steel frame is lighter to carry and admits of a closer roll. When car rying your umbrella on the street not in use, keep it furled; if hanging in your closet keep its case on. In fact, it presents a very neat appearance if the case is on when it is carried. To furl, grasp the stick in the right hand, shake out the folds, wrap them close ly around the stick, beginning at the lower end, and smooth as they are wrapped around the stick, then fasten with the silk band and slip on the silk cover. When coming in with a wet um brella, stand it handle down to dry, then wipe off the handle and ferrule, and furl the silk sections. If the silk gets a spot on it, remove it with a silk rag, warm water and soap. Clean a gold or silver handle with whiting, wash a china handle in warm soap suds, rub up a wooden handle with a very slightly oily rag. A good way to mend a silk umbrel la is to wet a piece of black cout plaster and fasten it to the silk just under the tear and let it dry. It is a much more satisfactory procedure 'than darning. It closes the hole and there are no stitches showing. WHITE LACE WAIST This attractive waist is of white lace with sleeves cut in. one piece with the body of the waist. It is trimmed at the bottom in cor selet fashion with beautiful embroid ery in colors and bands of gold gal loon; the latter also finishes the neck. Brims Ail Ways. The brims of the new fall and win ter hats are twisted and turned in ev ery conceivable angle, says the New Haven Journal Courier, one side so wide and high ai to completely hid the crown and often most of the high eit trimming. DAINTY TABLE FAVORS SUGGESTIONS FOR TEAS FORTHCOMING BRIDES. TO Family Taste and Ingenuity Shown In Knickknacks of Uncommon Cleverness Pure White for Novelties. The teas given to forthcoming brides are graced by the most charm ing favors. The best of the trifles are boughc at the high-class confection er's, where they are to be found in a more novel and elegant form than elsewhere, but smart florists also show some very pretty things for this pur pose, as well as most of the large department stores. Here and there, too, one sees a tea table embellished with homemade KnickKnacKs of un common cleverness, some of these im itating he shop articles, and some inspired -by the family's own taste ami ingenuity. As the bride's newest bouquet is to be in pyramid form, little corsage knots are made in this shape of arti ficial flowers. Various tiny posies are mixed together, wee pink buds, or red ones, or yellow ones, forget-me nots in several shades of blue, pan sies in all colors. The most deli cate green is used with these, fragile .bits of asparagus fern and other feathery tufts and small leaves. When the little bouquet is made up in the pointed shape, it is inclosed in a horn of lace-edged paper and the handle tinfoiled. All of the flowers used are very cheap just now, and for the pa per holders, when the pretty things are made at home, many girls buy the packages of round lace-edged paper used upon cake and bonbon dishes and sold at ten cent stores. If there are to be men guests at the function boutonnieres for them are made up in rhe same manner. The rounds of paper need to be cut the required size and the edges pasted together. Such corsage knots and bou tonnieres are permissible for any smart tea, dinner or luncheon. The novelties strictly for bridal use are always in pure white. There are tiny dolls dressed as brides, wedding trunks, slippers, little satin bags con taining rice or confetti, wedding bells, wee automobiles holding flowers or candy, etc. Occasionally a gVoom in black get-up, with the traditional white boutonniere, is shown in this snowy gathering, and one such little gentle man adds a very realistic note to the decorations of the table. Painted fig ures on cardboard bedeck place cards, the brides, bridesmaids and black coated men all cut out and held up by a little rest at the back of the card. The cards are very easy to make if anybody in the family has a gift for water-color painting, and when they are printed they are cheap enough. Dates stuffed with peanut butter and then rolled in sugar are a pleasing change from dates stuffed with nuts. If a curtain or portiere pole is rubbed with hard soap before being put up the draperies will slip on eas- iiy. Dates and figs cut in small pieces and served with plenty of sugar make a tasty accompaniment to a dish of rice boiled in milk. Cheese may be kept soft and good for a long time if wrapped in a cloth wrung out in vinegar and then wrapped again tin dry cloth. Whole wheat or brown bread cut into very thin slices and spread with unsalted butter is tasty served with oysters on the half shell. Strange as it may seem, beef may be kept for months if immersed in sour milk. The lactic acid destroys the germs of putrefaction. Scraps of toilet soap should be saved and when half a cupful or so Is on hand it is a good plan to make the scraps into a soap jelly. Use hot milk instead of cold when mashing potatoes and they will be fluffier. Chicken fat is far better than but ter to use in making a white sauce when creaming chicken. Always lower the temperature of the oven somewhat fifteen or twenty minutes after a roast has been placed in it. This will insure that the juices be retained. On rainy days, when it becomes nec essary to dry clothes within doors, use your theoretical knowledge that heat rises and hang them as high up as possible. Gooseberries and Cream. Pick off stems, thoroughly wash am carefully drain on a cloth a quart fresh, sound, large gooseberries; place on a dish, sprinkle two tablespoons powdered sugar over, lightly mix; whisk 1V2 gills cream till well thick ened but not quite to a froth, adding two tablespoonfuls sugar; whisk for a minute, pour over the gooseberries and serve. Tea Ice Cream. Boil a quart of milk and then pour it over one ounce of tea leaves; let steep covered for five minutes. Strain into a bowl over a caramel made of two ounces of sugar. Beat the yolks of eight eggs with one-half pound of powdered sugar; stir the milk into this mixture, and place the whole over the fire, gently stirring until it thick COMFORT IN TRAVELER'S TEA One Wise in Lore of Creature Com fort Never Wanders Far With--out Her Own Tea Caddy. In traveling both at home and abroad, there is great comfort in your own cup of tea. On the steamer, par ticularly, you miss your own brand and the well-versed traveler who is wise in the lore of creature comforts never wanders far from home with out her tea caddy. It adds greatly to her popularity. "Of, if I only had a good cup of tea," is the general cry on shipboard and then this far-sighted woman produces the cheering leaves, and she becomes the center of attrac tion, and has her little coterie every afternoon. There are some who pre fer it for the morning meal, too, in stead of the usual mediocre coffee with condensed milk. For this poignant need of the trav eler, a charming little tea box of ma hogany containing a small silver tea caddy and a little tea ball, reproducing a miniature tea kettle, has been put upon the market. It is very simple in arrangement, compact, and easy to pack and makes a really practical gift. There are many places on the conti nent where good tea is a real luxury, and many an unsophisticated Ameri can is astonished when she pays her bill for what she considers a very simple repast. She finds that her cup of tea costs more than a very elab orate dessert, and so it is a great economy as well as comfort to carry your own tea with you. HINTS ON CANNING GREENS Method Which If Followed Carefully Will Insure Success Every Time. Many things used for greens may be canned by the following method: Pick over carefully and wash the leaves mixture of kinds is desirable; cook in boiling salted water as for the table until nearly done; do not have much water, but cook in closed kettles to make the steam do the work. Then pack closely in jars and pour over them boiling vinegar to fill every air space, then seal tightly as any other canning. Pack the greens closely in the jar, and when pouring in the boil ing vinegar, run a knife blade around the edge in order to open up the spaces for the vinegar. Wrap each jar in brown paper, or put into paper bags, and keep as other canned fruits. Spinach, mustard, chard, beet and oth er greens are put up in this way. Commoner. Tomato Sauce. One cup strained tomatoes, two ta blespoonfuls butter, two tablespoonfuls flour, quarter teaspoonful salt, sprinkle with pepper. Melt the butter, add flour, blend thoroughly; add gradually strained tomato, stirring constantly. Boil three minutes or more. Season with salt and pepper. .If desired, a little chopped onion may be fried with the butter and removed before adding flour, and have baked crackers with it. Split round crackers in halves, spread a thin layer of butter on the inside. Place them the buttered side up in a pan and brown in a hot oven. Serve plain or with tomato sauce or any kind of soups or oyster stew. Danish Pudding. One pint dried bread crumbs; roll fine; put tablespoon butter into fry basin, mix crumbs with half cup sugar and brown in fry basin. Make a pint or more of apple sauce, sweeten, fla vor with fresh lemon, put layer of sauce and layer of bread crumbs into pudding dish; when the dish is full put melted butter on the top; bake half hour, then let the pudding get cold and cover with whipped cream. It is better to make the day before it is to be served. It is improved by put ting a little fruit spice into the pud ding before baking. Pineapple Pudding. Drain the juice from a can of pine apple (grated). To the fru?t add one half pound marshmallows broken in small pieces, one-half cupful sugar one-half cupful chopped English wal nuts. Let stand a while, then over it turn one pint heavy sweet cream and whip all together until it be comes a stiff froth or when dropped from the spoon it will stand alone. Stand on ice until ready to serve. Plum Pudding. One pound currants, one pound seedless raisins, one pound suet, one quarter pound candied lemon peel cut up fine, one pound sugar, one pound flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful ein namon, one teaspoonful nutmeg, one small turnip, one small carrot, one small apple, one small potato, this must be grated; mix with three-quarters cup cider. Put in cloth and boil eight hours. Tutti-Frutti Ice Cream. Take a tablespoonful each of the fol lowing preserved fruits: Raspberries, strawberries, currants, apricots, green gages, gooseberries, plums and gin ger. Add to these a little candied or ange peel, cut into tiny, thin pieces. Sweeten a quart of cream with one half pound of sugar, and add to it a cordial glass of noyau; then thor oughly stir in the fruit and freeze. Shrimp Salad. Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter and four tablespoonfuls of flour to gether, add yolks of three eggs and two cups of milk and cook until thick ened. Add salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoon ful of mustard and one can of shrimps broken in small pieces. THE T SCRAP BOOK TRIBUTE TO THE JUNGLE. That India still pays its annual trib ute of human life to the jungle is shown by a statement made in a re Cent issue of the London Times. Dur ing the past three years the number of deaths from snake bite or the at tacks of wild animals has steadily in creased. Rising waters have driven the serpents out of the lowlands up into the villages, and have diminished the natural food supply of the larger animals. In 1910 55 persons were killed by elephants, 25 by hyenas, 109 by bears, 851 by leopards, 318 by wolves, S53 by tigers, and 688 by other animals, in cluding wild pigs. No less than 23, 478 died from the bite of poisonous snakes. The grand total of mortal ity is 24,878. During the same year, 93,000 cattle were also killed by wild beasts and snakes. The losses on the part of inhabit ants of the jungle were nearly but not quite as great as those of their hu man enemies and domesticated ani mals combined. Ninety-one thousand one hundred and four snakes and over 19,000 wild beasts of various kinds were killed. A WATERLOO DISPATCH. There has just been published Blucher's dispatch which gave Ber lin the first news of the victory of Wa terloo. It was addressed to the gov ernor, and said: "I inforn" your excellency that in conjunction with the English army under Field Marshal the Duke of Wellington, I yesterday gained the most complete victory over Napoleon Bonaparte that could possibly be won. "The battle was fought in the neigh borhood of some isolated buildings on the road from here to Brussels bear ing the name "La Belle Alliance," and a better name can hardly be given to this important day. The French army Is in complete dissolution, and an ex traordinary number of guns have been captured. "Time does not at this moment per mit me to send further details to your excellency; I reserve them for a fu ture occasion, and beg you duly tc communicate this joyful news to the good Berliners. (Signed.) "BLUCHER." This dispatch reached Berlin or June 24, 1815. OLDEST FIRE TOWER. At La Coruna, in northern Spain, may be seen a fire tower which is, with the exception of the ruins of the Roman lighthouse at Dover the oldest of all existing structures of this kinö. The exact date of the erection of this tower is unknown. According to an ancient tradition, it is accredited to Hercules, whence its name Tor:? de Hercules. Others say that Phoeni cians, who established several colo nies in Spain, had erected this light tower for their northland cruises. How ever, judging from the inscription, it is more probable that the Roman emperor Trojan (98 to 117 A. D.) erected this structure. The inscrip tion also mentions the name of Serv'l. us Supus of Lusitania as the architect. The tower Is built of ashlars and is nine meters square and 40 meters in height. It has sx separate stories, which can only be reached by a cir cular staircase around the exterior of the tower. The lighthouse was restor ed in 1684, but at the end of the eight eenth century was again in ruins. In 1797 it was rebuilt by the Spanish government and still sends forth its beams. FRANCE'S LOW BIRTH RATE. Statistics show for last year 34,867 deaths in France in excess of births. The depopulation of France, states Dr. Variot, the eminent children's physi cian, is not due to high death rates, but to low birth rates. In 1862, when the population of Paris was 1,721,917, there were 52,312 births. In 1907, with a population oi 2,728,731, there were only 50,811. Germany, whose people numbered 60,000,000 in 1905, had increased to 64,800,00 by the year 1910. The Ger man population is increasing at a fast er rate than that of Great Britain. SOUTH AFRICAN STOCK. A summary of the returns of the live stock in South Africa as ascer tained by the census in May of last year gives the following Tesults: Cat tle, 5,796,000; horses, 719,000; mules, 93,000; asses, 336,000; ostriches, 746, 000; wooled sheep. 21.4S2.000; other sheep, 8,814,000; angora goats, 5,257, 000; other goats, 7,487.000. The Cape Province supplies by far the princi pal proportion of these figures, viz.: 2,15,000 cattle, 339,999 horses, 72S.000 oitriches, 11,051,000 wooled sheep 6,082,000 other sheep, 3,340.000 ango ras, and 4,613,000 other goat. THE SPEED OF THOUGHT. How fast do impulse travel atooc the nerves? The speed has been duly measured by the aid of the elaborate apparatus with which the physiologi-i cal laboratory of today la supplied. Imi man the rate has been set down at! about 114 feet a second. This measurement has reference to the rate at which messages of tht( bodily telegraph system are sent from1 nerve centers along motor nerves or' those destined to bring muscles lntoj play. But a second class of nervts exists in the body called "sensory' whose duty it is to convey message' from the body to nerve centers, The rat of impulse in the sensory nerves i is quicker than in the motor nerresj Investigators give varying rates, from1 about 168 feet to 675 feet per second an average rate being 282 feet Physiologists have made careful calculations regarding what is calM our reaction time. Here we endeavor to calculate the Interval which elape between the impression made on our organ of sense and the giving of th signal which registers the impression as received by the brain and translat ed into terms of consciousness. Dif ferent results, due, no doubt, to the varying nervous capacities of the in dividuals, have been obtained. In on series the interval averaged .1087 of a second and in another .1911. Signaling to the eye by means of a light demanded for its reception and demonstration .1139 of a second. In the case of a sound the Interval was .1360. An electric spark used to stim ulate the eye gave as reaction time .1377 of a second when the signal was given by the lower jaw and .-S40 whea given by the foot. TYPEWRITER VS. COAL HEAVER. The girl who Is operating a type writer doesn't appear to be doing very heavy physical labor, as compared with the brawny Individual in the stokehold of an Atlantic liner who is shoveling coal into a hungry furnace, but this is one of the many instances in Which superficial appearances are receptive, as a comparison of the force expended by the two will show. The stoker may be credited with handling one ton of coal per hour, or eight tons per day, plus the weight of his shovel. Adding the shovel to his 17,960 pounds of coal, he expends about 20,000 pounds of energy. For each key struck on the typewriter there is an expenditure of something over three ounces of energy, or, say, one pound to the average word. A fair operator will average 1,500 words an hour, or in eight hours 12,000 words 12,000 pounds of energy. To throw over the carriage for each new line requires on an average three pounds of force. Twelve thousand words will make 1,000 lines, so there are 3,000 pounds of energy to be add ed to the 12,000, making 15,000 pounds of energy expended which compares pretty well with the stoker's 20,000, all things considered. A really fast operator would push the expenditure of energy in to 25,000 pounds or more. DEATH LIST OF SOME WARS. The total number of British killed in action in the South African war was 5,744; 22,829 were wounded, and 16,166 died of wounds or disease. The number of Boers killed or mortally wounded was about 3,700; about 32, 000 prisoners of war were taken, 700 of whom died. The United States' loss in the war with Spain was 336 men killed, 125 mortally wounded, 5,277 died of disease. The Spanish loss was 20,000, the majority dying from disease. According to the report of the provost marshal general the cas ualties of the Union army from the beginning of the American Civil war to August, l65, were as follows: Kill ed, 67,976; died of wounds, 25,947; dis ease, 183,464; disabled, 224,306. Con federate losses were: Killed: 51,525; wounded, 227,871. In the Union navy there were 4,030 killed and wounded in action, 2,532 died of disease, and 2,070 died from other causes. Japan, according to one computation, is said to have lost 167,400 in killed, wounded and captured in the Russo-Japanese war, while Russia's losses were com puted to be 288,500 men. THE LAST STRAW. Pew food cranks have carried their yearning after the simple life to such an extreme length as did one Roger Crab, who, In spite of his strange fare, saw a fair part of the seventeenth cen tury. Up to his twentieth year he was normal-minded, then he turned vege tarian, and framed his apology: "Butchers are excluded from juries. but the receiver is worse than the thief, so the buyer Is worse than the butcher." From the banning of meat he turned his attention to butter and cheese, and thought that he could live without them. He went even further, and banned all things edible, till at length he achieved the fine art of feed ing upon dock leaves, grass and water, at a gross cost of about a penny a week. A THIRSTY CITY. Official statitstics Just published by the municipality of Muiich. Bavaria, show that the city still holds the rae ord for the per capitla consumption of beor, the amount per head of the pop ulation last year being 70V gallons; the average consumption per head of population in England is only 20 gal Ions. The Munich breweries produced last year 81.752.000 gallons of beer, o( which 42,500,000 gallons were drunk in the city, while the1- rest was ex ported to other parts of Germany mnd abroad. This home consumption rep- resented an increase oof 2.310.000 gal Ions at compared with 1910.