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THE ABOVE ILLUSTRATION REPRESENTS THE MOST PROMINENT AFRO-AMERICAN
WOMEN IN THIS COUNTRY, Wtf O ATTENDEDD THE DEDICATORY EX
ERCISES OF THE OPENING OF THE ANNEX TO PORO COLLEGE, ST. LOUIS.
Fabric Foundation Is Feature of
Etamine, Loose Mesh Cotton Material,
Resembling Batavia Cloth, Is One
of the Latest.
The new millinery which has already
made Its appearance this spring baa
usually some sort of a fabric founda
tion such as satin, taffeta, faille ot
avic tie dune, this latter material De
ins In the lead. Another fabric which
is new to the season Is a loose mesh
cotton caned etamine, somewhat re
sembling batavia cloth.
The mesh Is so open that ribbons are,
often run through It giving the effect
of embroidery. Colored fabrics from
Japan are also used. In fact, there Is
quite a vogue for things oriental, and
Japanese embroideries are seen on
many a smart shape. Sport bats which
are trimmed in this manner are gen
erally accompanied by a scarf and
handbag to match.
Small shapes are the general favoiv
ites, with a strong tendency toward
the Moroccan turban effect This is a
draped affair with a trimming which
droops at the side. This drooping ef
fect Is to be an important one this sea-.
son. Sometimes It Is obtained 'by
means of a ribbon bow with long ends
which hang from'the side, extending to
or below the shoulder. Then, again
flowers or feathers, often placed be
neath the brim, carry out this idea.
It is declared that If the dlrectolre
mode prevails in suits and frocks that
this summer will see the high square
crown of that period used on many of
Blue Straw, Flower Trimmed.
the summer hats. Soft, drooping brims
also characterize this mode and are, as
rule, becoming to many different
As to colors, they are gay Indeed;
d preens, bright reds, pimento, to
mato and tangerine, blues, anil many
tones of tan and brown. At the same
tune black hats are featured, chiefly of
imie, usere, hemp and .horsehair.
AH sorts of flower and frclt and I
c.cu vegetable trimmings, are to be
fd : prapes, curranta and cherries
jtog the most populaFlrults. .Solid
"Over turbans are shown, while chsn
tffly lace and cellophane are employed
to fashion tonnes for dinner,- and, eve-
Feathers are also used this spring.
w as a rule droopInstead of stanO
NOTES ABOUT. SPRING WTS
Unertt Place Glvn -tn nthhnn
Outstanding Uote; SoftHea
An outstanding feature of," the .new
fg styles la mllltoeryjrthe prapftT
ZT plce given to ribbon, as a trlm
s AU widths of ribboB,-frHi the
Jgw to .tte very tC are
J81 new sport hats featHre an
cth-e narrow two-tone rBboa,
rw in sections between rows of
wS the tailor hats, hemp; Usere
Zw straw are almost ef aaHy
Wat A slight preference. Hot
"J Is given to the hemp. .
k mfr bnt 'TBrS' attractive swdel
!arL , me ana triaaea wtta
B circles of hemp in raisbw,cel-.
the large shapes or spriar
- at made of black stray jdtkj I
underbrlm of black velvet The edge
of the brim Is cot to represent leaves.
Black velvet ribbon Is used about the
A chic little French model-takes the
shape of a toque. It Is made simply
of loops of blood crepe de chine with
a fall of self-material on one side.
Glycerine ostrich and vulture feath
ers are very popular. These hanging
feather trims in a great many cases
hang to the waistline -and even below.
The ends of the vulture are frequently
tipped with gold or silver.
Soft hats promlscto be by far the
most popular of all the shapes.
On many of the French models re
cently Imported, there Is much, cherry
and grape trimming in hanging effects.
Use of Laces.
Traces are used -extensively, but
rather as a decorative feature. Instead
of the substance of thegown.
LITTLE GIRL'S SILK FROCK
This modest, and attractive silk
frock with a broad sash of ribbon
was exhibited at the allk show held
recently in New York.
BEHOLD, THE DASHING SASHI
Latest Embellishment for Milady's
Gown About Three Yards, When
Bouflht Ready Made.
Enter the sash! It has made Its
bow, and from ths Immense applause
at Its entrance, it promises to be on
the boards for some time. By this Is
meant, not the sash which is of self
material and finishes off a great many
of those new low-bloused frocks, but
Its more brilliant cousin, the separate
sash, that is bought or made separate
ly, to be treated as a pet accessory for
wearing with .several costumes, or as
several sashes for one costume.
It Is long, about three yards, when
bought ready made, and goes about
the waist only once, tying to one side
and dropping- to the edge of the skirt.
if not hrfow It DeeD-knotted fringe
weights It and compose, at . least
twelve Inches of Its length at each
And.what makes the new sashes?
All those lovely new ribbons yoa have
been eying from a distance and "wish
ing you could invent an excuse for
wearing. There are beautiful Boman
striped ones, the fringe on the ends re
peating the colors of the stripes or ac
centuating one. color. These are to be
worn with navy tricotinfe and serge
frocks, onder the very short Jackets
that are coming Into vogue ior top
ping off the chemise dress, and with
sejjarate skirts that are not too gay
Ja themselves. Wonderful naw apri
cot, jade and h'ronxe satin ribbons are
weighted trtth matching- fringe for nse
on canton crepe and prepe "de chlae,
as well as georgette; dresses of sombre
hse, or with the cotton frocks and sep
arate skirts for summer. Ifewlll baths
vogue to top the sport silk' skirt of
white, Jvy or neutral gray with one
ef these flaming sashes.
WIDE RANGE OF SPORT TOGS
Name , .- -
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Ad9 to MUaas Charm.
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worn on golf links and for other out
door recreations. TSport clothes are
general, practical clothes he smart
serviceable clothes that make a girl
or a woman look spick and span, Jrlg.
trim and businesslike.
. This type of tailored and seml-tail-orer
apparel Is admirably suited to the,
American woman and her-nctivitles,
and It Is unquestionably this quality of
appropriateness that has, more than
anything else, helped to establish sport
clothes in thlsbroad and general way.
Our everyday tailored suit and the
topcoat that proves such an Ideal ad
dition to this outfit when emergency
demands are sport clothes In their
-wefl-tailored, well-cut development In
the simplicity of thejr designs and the
excellence of the material of which
they are made.
So, too, the word sport applies
truthfully to the tailored and seml
tallpred blouses and shirts of mannish
wash silk that many business and col
lege girls affect and to .the more dec
orative and more feminine smocks and
overblouses, for Is not serviceability,
quite as much as style, a dominant
note of these well-established gar
ments? For sport clothes may be as plain
and practical as will suit the most
conservative, yet be endowed with the
charm of color and the .allurement of
Frock of Gray Morocco Crepe.
A charming spring frock Is mad
of gray morocco" crepe. The cut is
slipover, absolutely straight Four
large folds trim the skirt; while the
bodice is simplicity Itself. A note of
chic Is achieved by tEe addition of a
broad tangerine mousseline de sole
sash, edged with a long silk fringe In
the same'shade. Tiny buttons edge th
0v?& neckline and the sleeves.
FOR TOTS' SPRING CLOTHES
Embroldery Given Promlnjent Place In
.Decoration for Children's and
Wool embroidery la. given a promi
nent place In spring clothes both for
children and their older contempora
ries. In spite of the' very long life of
the fashion, women and dressmakers
are as partial to It as ever.
Pongee makes a good background al
ways for wool embroidery. And If
the work takes too long, colored, wool
braids may be used as a substitute.
There Is a very easy and effective de
sign of triangles which suits well the
trimming of a child's dress or coat oil
pongee. The wool, if it Is heavy, like
Germantown, is split And the tri
angles are set-with the one point
turned down. Each side of the tri
angle Is composed of Just one stitch.
If more than one color is liked the
needle may be threaded with the split
strands in the two shades. A very
large needle, which will slip easily
through the material without a Jerk
and which can be threaded easily, also
makes this kind of work Just half
again as easy. With busy mothers
this ought to stand for something.
AIDS TO HOME DRESSMAKERS
Tucked and Flounced Organdies
Among Things That May Be Mado
Into Summer Frocks.
A great many first aids to dress
making are to be found in the heck
wear sections of the shops. It Is well
worth while for the amateur dress
maker to spend some time looking
about In these departments; It is sur
prising to see the new and" lovely
things that are being exploited there
for spring wear.
Of course, there is the neckwear It
self which one would naturally expect
to and,- but it Is .quite unusual to-dl
cover tucked and flounced organdies
and nets that require only A little
sewing to make them into beautiful
summer frocks. Pictures of models
suitable to the various floundnga ac
company them to offer suggestions to
the home dressmaker.
' These, floundnga are wide enough
for skirts and have alternating rows
of deep tucks and dusters of narrow
ones. Some of the tucks arc hem
stitched. The. tucking will extend
about halfway up the skirt when the
Material is made up.
The organdies are lnjul the bright
sew shades broHght oat for the com
ing summer, as, well as the pastel
colorings that we had last year. De
mure gray takes Its place among
these orgaadiesras it does in an other,
materials A great deal is being aade
of mv nrasJIns. and some of oar pret-
,.tiest frocks- are evolved frosi tbesa.
BMn4aMnty a Great .Asset
Xake yoarself dependable aad yoa
aw case as sear belag iBdispensasle
Jc aar aee can be. Ton wOI be the f
Stmt mht jeer employer will wish te
part wftfe aed-tse flrst that he w
yrwMOte t greater roBponsniflRiear
THE BROAD AX MARCH 19, 1921.
IN SPRING BLOUSE
Little Variation in Style of the
Materials Swerving From Heavy Sat-
Ins, Brocades and Taffetas to
Georgettes, Nets and Laces.
Spring blouses show less variation
from the ast season's offerings than
any other branch of 'the feminine gar
ment world, observes a New York
The main difference is in coloring'
and material, which Is only the natural
change from winter to summer" wear.
Colors are very gay. Practically all the
manufacturers are turning out vast
quantities of poreclaln blue, tangerine,
honeydew and rattan models.
Materials are swerving from the
heavy satins, brocades and taffetas of
midwinter to the georgettes, nets and
laces of early spring. Georgette com
bined with silk or tricot Is. much in
evidence. The leading color combina
tion Is gray georgette, with coral or
rose silk. Gray Is the winning color
In hats, shoes, hose and wrap trim
mings, and it Is for this reason that
blouses favor lt4u dress models.
One house Is showing a model of tie
back gray georgette with back and
front panel of coral, metallic silk. These
panels are covered with an all-over pat
tern of black floss stitching. The
sleeves are 'three-quarter length and
have the loose, flowing peasant cuff.
The peasant Influence, by the way. Is
strongly developed In spring blouses.
The Roumanian cut and coloring Ii
especially emphasized. Peasant smocks
made of linen, pongee, crash or muslin
In natural color and embroidered with
oriental blues and reds are a big seller
for Southern resort wear right now.
The cross stitch is used for embroid
ering cotton blouses and the pattern Is
generally applied about the peplum,
collarless neck, and down th'e front,
where a large square or round design
The peasant cut Is effected by the
loose sleeves, loose armboies and pep
lum belted at the waist The old-tlmc
flowing Russian overblouse Is almost
entirely supplanted by this belted ef
fect Either a belt of self material Is
used or a kid belt In contrasting color.
These narrow "kid belts of white, tan,
scarlet or brown are lavishly used on
all blouses and are a big feature of
Ldress georgette blouses, as well as the
peasant cotton sorts.
Basque blouses are not returning to
anyextent In the spring lines. But the
high choker collar which was a part of
the basque Ig retained In mnny lingerie
and silk modeli It'lfr quite the vogue
to have a very high collar and very
short sleeves, a la the grand opera
gowns, of this season.
Lingerie blouses are not very con
spicuous, mainly because of the impost
slblllty of getting this handwork done.
However, a few very select shops are
displaying- their priceless band-made
linens, voiles and organdies. They ar
embossed with more cutwork, scallop
ing and solid embroidery than was con
sidered good taste a few years ago, but
the fortunate women who can afford
them "affect to find them very heauti
fuL Narrow colored ribbon sashes or
girdles are run through hand-wrought
eyelets and tie at the side.
Loose cotton sport blouses In a vari
ety of gay colors, such as Jade, emer
ald, topaz, canary, porcelain blue, rose
and scarlet, are shown to be worn with
the sleeveless ribbon of"woot Jackets.
Tarns to match the Jackets are upon
GROUND SKIRT. NEW FEATURE
The round skirt and smart trimming
are features of this suit. Green or
gandie la Introduced and affords a"
smart note of contrast.
The Topcoat Is Also Gay.
Next In favor to the full-length cape
comes the topcoat made in loose box
style, and. in three-quarter or seven
eighths length. Wool velours, wool mlx-
I tares and bnres in dull shades of gold,
copper and rose axe employed for
these, although occasionally a topcoat
will be seen forming part of a three
Tale Gray PcjMilar:
Pale gray' promises to he ose of the
faverites for spring.
Chinese Wats Cfceetniria,
Water chastest Is Jk Mae girea
ttany times to the edible tsirs,,growa
Sb great qaaatities la Chiaa, that are
freperiy called the pl-tsi. Mi "stay be
eatea either raw or beileA. TJ Teal
water cbectaat Is Calaa a the aasse
ef Jtec-ke.and is erthe-lve fsei
gratee grswn there; v
a JftL JH Vfiflj
DEMAND IS FOR
Women's Clothes Are Being Se
. tected With More Discrimina
tion, Fashion Writer Says.
MET aHD SHORT BOXCOAT
Garments Are Newest Note In Little
Frenchy Looking Suits Worn
Under the Longer Fur or
There may be a buying strike, bur
there Is no dressing strike, observes a
New York fashion correspondent The
more one goes about In social circles'
the more Is one impressed by the great
number of beautiful frocks that are
being worn. Everywhere Is seen evi
dence of the fact that Just now wom
en's clothes are being selected with
more discrimination, with a keener
eye for the elements of style, than
Rich Black Satin Evening Gown.
has been applied to their choice for
some decades past. Women are at
last putting their minds on their
clothes and are refusing to buy "Just
Can that be called a buying strike?
Not at all I It portends only good for
everybody concerned, and the only try
ing period is this one of transition
from the days when women bought as
though they were heavily blindfolded,
following wild-fashion dictates, to the
day when they will buy their clothes
is lnttf llgently as they now buy their
One of the biggest designers and
merchants In New York was inter
viewed the other day as he-was leav
ing for Paris. He was -asked the age
old question: What will the "women
wear next season ?" Then came his
rather Insurgent answer, for this Is
hard for.e dressmaker (to admit "The
women of America are choosing their
own gowns according to tneuvown in
dividualities. They will no longer con
tent to be governed by arbitrary style
Styles may come and styles may go ;
the dlrectolre may be suggested and
the one-piece dress may be threatened
with oblivion, but it does look, as
though the women of today have be
come wholly positive on the subject of
dress and as though they are going to
wear what they like. ThIs being the
case, then the dressing that one sees
In smart places becomes more inspir
iting, as a general thing, than ltwas
during former seasons.- It is refresh
ing to see S woman quite correctly
and at the same time really suitably
gowned. An accomplishment of that
sort Is something artistic and worthy
of notice in Itself. And the whole idea
makes fashion a more enticingly Inter
esting game than ever it was before.
for It opens the avenues of individual
expression and the woman who Is once
hit by the Idea becomes an enthusiast
from then on. On this basis clothes
cannot be a bore in any sense of the
word and a thorough knowledge of
their makeup and construction can
only help to speed any woman on her
way of artistic understanding and ap
Among Latest Creations.
Two French gowns, displayed recent
ly are among the latest creations by
two of the most popular and accom
plished of the French designers. Their
big idea seems to be to keep the waist
line long, at feast so the cable reports
are saying. In this draped model the
waistline is elongated considerably,
and the whole effect of the gown is as
elongated as It can bemade. Sketched
by an artist in Paris, and one accus
tomed to sketching for French maga
zines, the drawings show plainly how
the French are stretching out the
lines of their skirts, while as yet we
are keeping ours much shorter.
On either side of this Madeleine
sown there Is a point of heavily
wrought boadwork done In silver: and
ld and -black. Tf Is an entirely new
ftMaamsa OhMtmb 'Wemen.
M China the atea as a rale are
sjBtravagant in dress thaa the s,
The oer!s Flews.
frost an Earijsa Starr lacker la
tMtmnt hlrir trni-m TiiMfTailT ta
. ' -t
daysjnany say. But
never attained any
v.OTth while goal....
Work, save asyou
never did before.Get
LINCQLN STATE BANK
OF CHICAGO .
Under State Government Supervision
3105 SOUTH STATE STREET
9 AND 11 EAST 31ST STREET
3 Per Cent on Savings
RESOURCES, OVER $2,800,000.00
Smoke as a Lightning Rod.
It would sm that a building 9,000
feet above the sea levei should be
protected by lightning rods, but the
astronomical observatory at Mount
Etna has not, and does not, need such
protection. The observatory Is. near
the summit of the volcano, and the
stream of vapor constantly rising from
the crater nets as a natural conductor,
draining the electricity out of the
clouds, so that lightning Is seldom seen
First .Studies of the Human Body.
.Early studies In -human anatomy
were conducted under many difficul
ties. Aristotle was among the flrst
to study the human body, about S50
B. C. Through all the years there
was objection to dissection of bodies
to verify facts, and when Titian de
signed and had completed the first
anatomical plates they were destroyed
by Vesallus. about 1533.
Cement Must Be Heated.
It Is often convenient to have a ce
ment that will resist considerable tem
peratures. Here is the redpe for a
good heat-wlthstandlng cement: Take
fifty parts of sulphur, one part of
rtsln and one part of tallow. Take
these Ingredients together and add fine
powdered glass to form a paste. This
cement must be heated before being
Freedom Is the word that Is many
tided. There are thosd who boast of
freedom of consdence who seem to
Interpret it simply as with that of
other people. There are those who
seem to fancy that their rights as dt
izens entitle them to unquestioned
trampling upon rights of anybody else
who chances to stand in their way
Not Afraid of That End.
Gladys was visiting her grandfa
ther's farm In Minnesota. They had
a rather frisky dog with whom she
used to play. One day as her grand
father came out of the house be dis
covered Gladys pulling the dog's tail,
so he said: "The dog will bite you If
you don't stop." Gladys looked up and
said: That end don't blte.": Chicago
Cut out this Subscription
THE BROAD AX
CatC S. EUzabeih'St, Chicago, H.
JULIUS F. TAYLOR, Please enter my name aj a s-abscriber. '
to THE BRQAJ6 AXL I enclose hereyritn Two Dollars, the annttal
subscription to same, or One Dollar for six months.
r Town ..,......:.... .....:...v
Date 111... State .-.......
Another Pay Day 'Gone
And still yon did not start that
Savings Account. Just said yon
would do jt "some day," and went
right ahead to spend your earnings.
Delay weakens character. DO
something. Get started. Come in
today and START the account.
Yon can do it with $L0CX
IlXINblS' TRUST fit
111! : Wn
Around the Clck.
"Yes, boys," continued the steeple
Jack, who was telling "true" and
thrilling stories, "yes, I was working
a clock tower one afternoon about 12
minutes to six, when I slipped, slid
down the roof and caught on the
long band of the clock. There I
dangled while the tovvn folks collected
below. So I yells to 'em, "Say you
folks, go home to your suppers. It'll
be close to half an hour before I
Little Virginia adores her cousin
Rate, but 'as she 'is only four, and
has a limited vocabulary as well as
an original one, she calls ber-"Cousin
Cake." One day a friend insisted on
her repeating the name several times,
until Virginia realized something was
not just right, whereupon she an
nounced, "Her name Is Cake, but we
don't, eat her, 'cause Iw like we.
Word of Norman Origin.
Our word helmet Is really the di
minutive form of the old Norman
"healme" and means a little helm.
The tendency of the French language
was to drop the "I" and to substitute
a long -"O" sound and so we got
heaume. The beaumers or bealmers
of medieval England were makers of
helmets and the word has come down
to ns as the surname Homer.
Wires Foretell Weather.
The varying humming of telegraph
wires Is claimed to give experienced
observers a due to the weather 24 to
85 hours ahead. A German statement
Is that high shrill notes are followed
by heavy falls of rain or snow of short
duration, and deep humming tones, by
brief light rainfalls, while buzzing
tones precede a change in the weather.
Dirt Obscures Light of Lamp.
When . the lamps become old and
more or less dirty between deanlng
periods the emitted light falls off about
25 per cent, according to-the Electrical
World. Consequently, for a desired
foot-candle Illumination, the rating of
the lamps must be about 83per cent
higher than that found necessary from
the calculations based'on the efndency,
of new, dean lamps.
Blank and Mail it to -
$LC FOR S MONTHS.
$0t FSS YZAJt
Street fcfclcag - -
I iL3Ulii J" Hv ,