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CHICAGO, ILL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 19, 1922,
FREEDOM OR DRESS
pit general desire for freedom of
4ttt again expresses Itself In the
Jtevtless coat, while red seems to be
a popular color, and this model Is ex
tremcly smart.
PRINTED FABRICS IN FAVOR
Crtpes and Other Patterned Materials
Enjoying Popularity Not Known
in "Many Years.
Ills season, when printed crepes
n4 other patterned fabrics are en
jgjing a period of favor such as they
tire not known In many years, lends
t Mir Interest to the famous tolles de
tar, tie earliest printed fabrics of
tie ocddent, which domesticated in
Clenth-century France the hand
Hotted prints of India. Many of the
wrest fabrics borrow their patterns
(& from the original India prints
ir fan the hand-blocked linens made
ts tie little French Tillage of Jouy,
ud tie tolles de Jouy themselves,
ttlcb are among the Important fab
ric of France, play a considerable
rale in the pageant of smart costume.
The summer mode thus makes of
telle de Jouy a trimming both for
ullleurs and for hot weather frocks
in Thlch it is often combined with a
beary tulle matching of the back
pound of the linen. It is gay, pretty
lad cf a charming novelty, affording
i pleasant variation from the too fa
cQlar embroideries. It is not used in
targe masses, but in decorative bits at
tie bottom of a jacket to make a
basque, to trim a t'eeve, or to make
tie top of a soft low girdle. Since
tie fabric is hardly supple enough for
ti frscfcs ct the present mode, it is
-Mid with panels of tulle which,
is u.e tkin sways, reveal a foundation
ae of the ccAoi of some flower in the
fts uf rfce jig Q-e j0ny.
aeesetin- a frock of crepon, with
la., Ker es and a full skirt, has a
nel c tolle de Jouy, which
.'""; - .ar toned well back from
t- t'ck. Again, a straight, long-
.cu Mouse of flowered linen is
Torn with a skirt of plain crepon In
Urhter or darker color. The daintiest
of frocks for children are made by cut
ting out motifs of tolle de Jouy and
applying them to sheer plaited batiste,
while long capes, whether for children
or their elders, combine these gay
printed linens with wool fabrics.
"Quaint, Indeed, is this combination
of old and new, which the Parlslenne
may devise by opening the trunks of
ier storerooms and cutting, not with
out a touch of sadness, the motifs
from the brilliant lengths of her old
tolles de Jouy," says Vogue.
LONGER EARRINGS ARE WORN
Faahlon la Not New-Umost as Old
the Human Race But
It la the Fad. ,
So woman considers herself well
leased today -who does not wear
earrings the longer, the more vividt
the more emphatic the better. This
rears debutante may think that ear
rinrs ere a new fascination for whose
Introduction she Is wholly responsible
bot when she attaches her long, swing
kg Jade ornaments to her ears she Is
following a custom which is almost
"Id as the human race. The thou
uds of years which separate pre
Moric woman from today's daughter
"erely emphasize the perennial at
traction of the dangling earring for
femininity and. be it said, in some
Periods of the world's history, for
"ttsculln'ty also.
A the name Implies the earring
u in Its simplest form a plain Ting
or twltt of wire through the ear.
Its possibilities for elaboration soon
re recognized and the ring- devel
oped into a book, on -which were
upended pendants of various kinds,
fl" Phoenicians, authorities on
Jewelry, hung from their earrings
ornaments shaped like baskets filled
"dth grain. The Greeks, artistic as
lways, carved 'beautiful pendants. A
small Eros or Cupid was the favorite
subject
Black Satin Hats.
The number of black satin hats worn
1tb light summer gowns is noticeable
it Atlantic .City. These hats have
ne neutral trimming, such as a
bronze ornament standing straight up
!a front or a few large white flowers.
Once upon a time the all-white hat
bs the only headgear permissible
with a sheer and pastel gown. As a
'tatter of fact, the black hjt is much
more effective because It Is a greater
strait with the delicate tint
Wnl Use cf Tana "Yarfnt
Sfe tea Yaakea, attsrilsg to "
, Is tiorohdiaB, ot Dten.tat
titans to snarl and qaarreL It waa
applied by the burghers of New Ah
sterdanvto the Invaders from Ooaaa
ticut
SPYING
FABRICS FOR FALL
Brilliant Types of Silk Are Used
for CoaY Lining.
Colors of .the Tropics Are In Evidence
In Many of the Numbers
for the Season.
The importance with which bro
cades are regarded for the fall and
winter season is illustrated In a
fall line, which contains an unusual
number of brocades In a large variety
f fabrics and patterns.
The featured cloth Is klo-ka, which.
In Itself, offers a diversity of patterns.
The foundation Is an open weave of
fine wool, on which Is a pattern made
by a puffy or blistered treatment of
silk. The whole Is usually In a single
tone, but there Is an occasional com
Mnatlon of two tones.
These .patterns ranse from the sim
ple, all-over oblong block. Hint would
be suitable for outing wear, to elabo
rate brocaded patterns made by the
puffed silk, and adaptable for formal
dresses and wraps.
Kameo crepe nppoars In brocaded
patterns for the first time. These arc
Intended. In many Instances, for fur
coat linings, making the brilliant type
of lining that In some colorings, such
as a greenish gold, has a metallic ap
pearance. SHkyway, chinchilla satin and satin
with plain or glace ground, are all
figured with brocaded grounds, some
good looking linings being achieved
with the satin weaves.
Other numbers are figured in sim
pler ways. Molly-O, for example,
which hitherto has been only a plain
cloth, develops stripes In the new line,
showing both the crepe and soft satin
weaves on the surface. Crepe d'amour,
the semi-transparent weave, is now
seen in the shadow checks and plaids.
In addition to the brocades, the
company attaches great importance to
plush striped novelties. Narrow stripes
are seen on voile and wide ones on
satin. Heavy canton crepe serves as
the ground for some of these fancies,
including a clipped number In which
the plush makes small squares.
In the class of plain fabrics are two
specialties one, called crepe stellar,
with a semi-lustrous face broken by
almost invisible checks In the weave;
the other, cote de chevaL a dull fabric
of the crepe de chine family. In which
the familiar warp stripe is made of
tiny chevrons.
Color, interest that has dveloped
so far in these plain and novelty
fabrics centers around the browns,
from the light chocolate browns to
deeper tones. Morocco, the dull red,
Is another favorite.
The print collection makes up In
brilliancy of color for any dullness In
f the popular plain colors. Some de
signs have the color luxuriance of the
tropics, and others the less exotic rich
ness of oriental design. Some suggest
modem paintings, and one has a batik
effect with crackled ground. In addi
tion to the staple ground colors used,
a bright green appears frequently.
One cannot say thnt the precipe,
small patterns of the spring season
have been completely abandoned, for
there are some distinctive Interpreta
tions of this style of print, but the
general effect Is of boldness and col
orfulness. These big patterns, which
appear on pussy willow and pussy
willow satin, are considered suitable
for fur coat linings. Between the
small patterns and the large, daring
ones. Is a group of moderately sized
detached patterns In soft colorings.
Fruit and flower groups appear In
this type.
BEADED DREC WELL LIKED
Surely the beatfed dress has earned
,-ta place In society, an when of slack
jeertette with steer fcease, mllaay
well knows she is eerrectly gewnea
Ter either afternoon or evening occa
sions. The hat shown Is off rnaline
with monkey fur.
Lace Designs.
Many of the newest sweaters are
knitted With lace designs in very light
weight wool threads. These are very
cool end very attractive-.
fU StathfatArie Beat.
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IN WHITE CREPE
Dress Combined With Blue Chif
fon is Charming.
Evening Gowns With and Without
Sleeves Curve of Armhole Matter
of Importance.
The ever Interesting model of white
crepe has sleeves that are made In
crepe has sleeves that are made In tiers
ja tiers of folds of the crepe Itself. Each
fold graduates and flares outward.
Then over the last fold there is a
layer of old bine chiffon that peeps
out from under the gray fold, making
a sort of inconspicuous decoration. To
match this note of color there Is a
decoration of a pattern of blue beads
applied around the neckline In a most
subtle manner and again In- inserts
under the arms at the rather high
waistline. This, or these, notes of
blue are the only bits of trimming
that the gown boasts, and they man
age to relieve the continuity of gray
so effectively that the gown becomes
one of those that are considered most
trimmed in the category of those that
ire boasting any trimming at all this
reason.
Evening dresses either have ex
tremely gracefully draied sleeves of
ihlffon; or tulle. r else they have no
sleeves at all. But if the matter of
their design Is left to the shaping of
the annholes. then that line Is at
tended to with the greatest of care and
nothing Is left to the Imagination
when the curving of the armhole line
Is taken into consideration. It may
look like a simple matter to have a
sleeveless gown, ut you will find,
when you come to the matter of tin-
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HON. HARRY OLSON
The Honorable Chief Justice of the Municipal Court of Chicago,
Who is Willing to Do Everything in His Power to Assist
to Curb the Onward March of the Ku KIux Klan Through
out the Northern States.
design, that trie exact curve of that
armhole is a matter of due Importance
and that unless It Is attended to with
the utmost skill, there is not much
chance that it shall emerge with the
ability to carry the day above tbe
achievements of its neighbors.
PALE COCOA A NOVEL SHADE
Brown Tint Not as Hot-Looking as
Many Darker Shades White
Jade to the Fore.
Pale cocoa Is a novel shade ?r sum
mer wear, not hot-looking as are so
many of the darker browns. Trimmed
with bronze or with the proper shade
of blue. It Is very attractive. Two
other new browns have made their ap
pearance. These go by the redolent
names of onion and caramel. Shoes to
go with these gowns are on the bronze
shade, with stockings In the shade
known as onion.
White Jade. like a summer cloud. Is
edging to the fore as a semi-precious
bit of loveliness for wear with the
summer frock. Often It Is combined
with green jade, forming a crispy, cool
ornament, soft In coloring as a bit of
daisy studded meadow. There Is an
extraordinary earring combining the
two Jades; a pyramidal-shaped
plaque dangling from two Uny chains
and forming the base on which dangle
three pendant drops of the green Jade.
Cornelian, the gem of grandmother's
day, is back again In dignified beauty,
itose quartz Is another fitting orna
ment for summer frocks.
Uneven hems, slashed and scal
loped and geometrically patterned
hems, padded hems, corded hems,
braided or embroidered hems all of
these there will be. and It Is a ques
tion whether the shifting of the center
nf interest front limbs to hems Is not
a good thing after all.
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H, HCW. PATRICK J. CARR
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LATE DRESSES ARE LONGER
Tightly Draped Models Are Worn on
the Street by Well Dressed
Women.
The warm weather has brought
numerous Interesting costumes. The
most striking feature of the new
dresses Is their Increased length,
which Is becoming more the vogue
dally.
The t-eml-lnng skirt appears to be
less favored and Is certainly lesa
graceful than the one coming to the
break of the ankle. It has been no
ticed that tightly draped models are
wom on the street by well dressed
women. The lines are long and
straight, the gown drawn to the side,
but cot supplemented by much full
ness n the hips to Interfere with the
slender line.
Crtie materials predominate now,
but the satin surfaces will appear
soon. It Is thought
The fact that draped gowns are not
good for figures that are rather stout
Is obvious ufter seeing some of the
heavier figures tightly costumed along
these lines.
Black chiffon, In a many tiered
petal mode, made a cool looking frock
seen ou the street In the afternoon.
Another gown was nil In periwinkle
shade, made of canton crepe with
sleeves and side panels of the same
color of chiffon. A hat carried out the
complete effect of the shade.
One frock appropriate for street
wear showed a triple fine white stripe
on a background of navy, the stripes
running np and down. Panels of self
material wrrt the or.ly trimming, and
the lint was of crepe, also in dark blue
mil wlii'i
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TO CONCENTRATE
ON THESLEEVES
Arm Covering of Gowns Mustf
Have the First Considera
tion, Writer Says.
THE BANNERS Of FASHION
Important Part of the Frock Must
Carry That Marked Gracefulness
So Essential of the Dresses
That Ar New.
We hear all sorts of rumors about
the sleeves that are to come whether
they shall be tight or loose, flowing or
plain but always It Is the sleeve. It
seems, around which the clothes In
terest centers, observes a .ashlon
writer in the New York Times. Col
lars, skirts, bodices and waistbands
keep their own Importance In the
scheme of things, but bteeves remain,
still, the center of attraction.
There Is no known fabric, no known
method of trimming, no clever adorn
ment for feminine attractiveness that
Afternoon Frock of Silver Lace and
an Underlying Area of Gray Georg
ette Tucked in Group for Trimming.
has not been applied to tbe scheme of
ileeve construction and with the ut
most success as a result. Each wom
an who at all prides herself upon her
dressing as a mark of distinction for
her personality pays much attention
to the manner of the shaping of her
sleeves. There is where the art of the
modern gown is concentrated. By the
swing and sweep of the sleeve Is the
style of the frock established. Tbe
sleeve, by all odds, carries off the
bulk of attention. And so it shall be
during the coming season so the de
signers have decreed. If their advance
models are to be taken as any cri
terion. By their sleeves ye shall know them.
That is the new style slogan. The rest
of the gown may be so simple that It
Is absolutely devoid of interest. It may
cleave to the common level In every
other particular, but as for Its sleeves,
there It excels. Sleeves are the Impor
tance of any gown. They are the
points by which you tell at once wheth
er it Is In the class of the ultra smart
or not. They may be plain. Indeed,
but they somehow manage to place
themselves as the center around which
all interest revolves. That is their
distinction in the modern plan of dress.
To Be in Height of Fashion.
So, see to your sleeves If you would
be "In the swim" of fashion. Do not
allow thorn to sink to tbe level of
mediocrity. They are your banners of
fashion. And no matter whether their
folds sweep Into the soup, they still
must carry that gracefulness which
Is so essential a part of the frocks that
are new. The sleeve has only Just be
gun to evolve. It promises, during the
coming season to establish a real style
interest never before achieved in ex
actly the ratio that this sleeve era
shall attain. Soi what could be more
of fashion Interest than to study the
sleeve as it exists today, with an eye
to Its evoluticn In the future?
In one model there is used a com
bination of white against black kasha
cloth. Then to Join the two together
there are rows of handwork in em
broidery done with black threads. But
It Is In the sleeves that the real de
sign converges. Tney are simple
enough to be sure, but they carry with
them that certain style which marks
them as an Insistent part of the mod
ern era.
The blouse of this particular dress
is cat In the kimono fashion that is
so dear to tbe heart of the French.
But tbe sleeTes slope away In a very
Informal manner and then they are
tied together with a band of the white
kasha doth made to form a sort of
s tassel. They are Inconspicuous
enough, but they have that certain air
of being tbe points of Interest thst
dignify tbe gown as a portion f th
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the band Is used to tie the ccRr;ts
gether, and these three ties serTe Jo
form a pattern that draws.the -whole
,deign of the garment into 'one.
Tbe hat is white, as one might ex
pect, and It is faced with a layer of
black, while the roll that forms tne
trimming about the crown is made of
white velvet twisted until It forms a
sort of rope.
Capelike Sleeves.
The sleeves of this gown are full
enough to run Into a sort of drooping
effect at the back which, when the
arms are loosely hung at the side, form
a capelike look across the back in
spite of the fact that they are ver
itable sleeves when the arms are posed
at other angles.
This Is one of the happy parts of
the modern sleeve. Besides being a
sleeve, it is usually something else.
They, together, form a cape, a scarf, a
collar or what not? They are, only
to begin with, sleeves, but they usu
ally have some other lunction to per
form In the design of the gown con
sidered as a whole. There are sleeves
which reach into side draperies for
tbe skirt. And this they do most ef
fectively. For Instance, there is a dress of
brocaded silk in gray. It is straight
enough and plain enough by Itself. But
then there are the sleeves. They are
folded and draned ana flung over the
arms and when the chiffon has fin
ished making sleeves to be worshiped
for their very beauty then It takes It
self Into the skirt where It is draped
and folded to such an extent that It
makes the real Interest of that skirt.
Of course the drapery congregates. at
the sides and at tbe hem It falls In
points over the hemline. But the
slevves are the things which start the
Idea and from them the folds of the
skirt take their way In unalloyed en
joyment. To finish the gown there is
a wide band of silver lace to make the
girdle and then there is a chou of vio
let flowers made of chiffon posed at
one side to finish off the girdle. On
the whole it Is a notable gown, in per
fect harmony with the style of the
present mode, but after all. Its sleeves
are the central points of Interest.
From them the draperies that make
the gown distinctive emerge, and In
them are the lines that establish the
continuity of the shaping of the gown
Itself.
For Afternoon Dresses.
For afternoon dresses the sleeves
are of Just as much Importance as
they are for any other sort of frock.
In fact they are more so, if the truth
were faced. Afternoon frocks must,
of necessity, be graceful and. Just now,
without flowing sleeves there is no
chance of achieving a graceful frock
without that side addition that makes
a sort of sleeve drapery.
There Is another frock. It Is com
posed of gray georgette, combined with
wide applications of sliver lace. And
It Is a gown that Is notable so far as
Its sleeves are concerned. The sleeves
and the upper section of the bodice
make a pattern with the groups of
tucks that are so arranged that they
string along the sleeves and then
across the neck. Other than that there
are only layers of the silver lace which
stretch over the foundation of the
same chiffon. But who can say that
the sleeves are not the Interest of the
design of the gow? The lace is the
trimming. Oh, yes, to be sure. But
the foundation frock is accentuated by
the rows of tucks that stretch across
the front and the back of the bodice
md then down the sleeves and across
3ne of Lanvin's Latest Street Cos
tumes. It Is a Combination of Whits
Kasha Cloth With Draped Sleevis.
their edges to make design of sim
plicity by which the whole tone of.'the
frock is established.
On some of the newer summer
dresses there are seen sleeves thatare
long and tightly fitted. They are most
ly of lace or Of some transparent ma
terial, end more often than not they
tart) some trailing scarflike affair
drooping from them. But there hare
Been seen those sleeves, and on the very
most advanced models that are tight
ly fitted even to the wrists and then
are allowed to flare over the bands
n most picturesque manner. f
FajMve Maine. '
AieBe Belvedere, supposed.
save beesr carved In 278 B. C was
a 1508. bought by- Julius H sat
Blaced'ln the Vatican. The namejec
taW sculptor Is nofknowa. The saarbla
j is presumably-a copy from s hroej.
I
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n
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n
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TJCafaic
'-. 1ijl
