Newspaper Page Text
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WOMEN'S FASHION AND HOUSEHOLD PAGE
THE BROAD AX, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 23, 1922
PANEL USED ON
BACK OR FRONT
Prominent Paris Modiste Places
Favorite Ornament in a New
Position.
GREAT VARIETY IH SLEEVES
Some Narrow and Tight Fitting;
Other Close at Shoulders, Widen
on Way Down to Wrist; Kimo
no and Handkerchief Styles.
Everybody has awaited vlth inter
est the showing of new models for the
winter by Madeleine Vlonnet. wonder
ing, as It were. If It would be possible
for this artist to keep to her Individual
styles and still arrive at the much de
sired "something new." In her collec
tion, writes a Paris fashion corres-
White Crepe de Chine Dinner Dres
With Floating Panels at the Center
Front and Back of the Skirt.
pondent in the New York Tribune, she
again demonstrates her genius in ob
taining maximum effect from mini
mum decoration.
Complicated cut with an ultimate
line of great simplicity is still main
tained. The flying panel, which she
uses so much now, ornaments the mid
dle of the back or the front of the
dress and no longer appears on the
sides. Sometimes it appears on both
the front and back as in dinner dress
It Is developed from white crepe d
chine. A cabochon made of brilliants
and pearls ornaments both the front
and back of the dress at the waistline
Uenerally speaking, sleeves are nar
row, some of them being quite tight
fitting; others are close at the shoul
ders and widen a little on the way
down to the wrist. Some are cut very
wide at the armhole and are so shaped
as to snugly encircle the wrist.
A simple cloth dress from Vlonnet
has large, loose kimono sleeves cut in
with the bodice. From the armholes
to the waistline the sleeves are shaped
to a close-fltting line at the wrist. The
skirt Is cut in the form of two large
petals, one overlapping the other. A
(heavy embroidery in floral pattern Is
;lncrusted on the inside of the sleeves
and a big flower of the cloth with Its
Jpetals covered with embroidery in
tones of green, blue and pink gives a
rather daring touch of color.
Cape Collar In Jabot Form.
The wide square-cut handkerchlel
sleeve is again seen, with a small
jundersleeve forming a semi-narrow
cuff usually In contrasting color. The
long, angel sleeve In modified form is
lso is evident
; Vlonnet has many little cape effects
(and curious cape collars which are a
jPut of the sleeve or the back of the
fires, a typical model of this sort
fhu an Interestingly cut Jacket in short
,belted style and has a waistline shoul
,oer cape which Is a part of the tight
fitting, full-length sleeve. It Is accom
panied by a perfectly plain skirt. A
novel feature is a white ermine collar
In Jabot form, which is in striking con
trast to the black velvet.
A distinctly new feature Is the Jabot
collar and frill, usually developed in
for. One finds this on tailor-made
dresses, on fur coats and on afternoon
dresses of crepe de chine and satin.
Sometimes the Jabot frill Is so deep
as to appear like a shoulder cape when
turned down, but when up and draped
around the neck it forms a frilly Jabot
like collar.
A street dress of this character Is
Is chemise form, developed In brick
"d velours de laine Inset with diamond-shaped
pieces of duretyn In the
peme dull gray of the cape, which 1
pt gray astrakhan.
Pinclng Frocks Feature PetaJed Skirt.
Another curious novelty Is a ghoul
per extension in the shape of an
enormous scarf, which, starting from
the point where the shoulder seams
tnight be, Is a continuous cut from
the front of the gown. These long
wds hang over the back of the gar
Qent In swinging scarf ends about
tkree-auarters of a yart wide and
reach to the hem of the skirt. Some
times these scarf ends are crossed at
the back, in which case they form a
muffling collar and cape wrap.
Vlonnet does not use the exagger
ated length In skirts. Practically all
her skirts are well above the ankles,
and, generally speaking, they are nar
row. The large petaled skirt is a
marked feature of her dancing frocks.
Not a few of Vionnet's dresses have
the almost straight skirt. A new form
bus an Inverted plait at the right side.
At the left there Is a scarflike con
tinuation of a turned-over top which
turns to form the girdle and ties at
the left side with long, flowing ends.
She works out the same idea in con
nection with a collar. Following a
medium bateau outline, this straight
band ties on one shoulder with long
ends and loops.
Vionnet's colors are, first and fore
most, beige In full gamut, with accom
panying shades of reddish chestnut
and golden browns. She still uses dull
brick reds in both woolens for street
suits and silks for afternoon dresses.
There Is very little black except for
coats.
Her favorite for evening dresses is
white. After that the lovely pervenche
blue. She also uses vivid blue like
that known as rol, or king's blue,
though u shade paler. Red In faded
tones like those seen in ancient Pom
peian friezes is favored. Green is less
In evidence than it was In the spring.
Silk and Wool Combinations.
As for materials Vlonnet uses chlaf
ly In woolen the velours de laine in
both plain and ribbed weaves and In
solid color and melange. The latter
gives somewhat the effect of a frieze,
especially if the white illumination is
obtained through the use of artificial
silk, as It often Is. This gives a spar
kling fleck all through the dark woolen
ground.
Crepe de chine and crepe romaln
for afternoon and evening are as much
used as heretofore, also crepe satin.
In the latter material she continues to
use both surfaces, getting from the
contrast of crepe and satin most de
sirable results. She uses some plain
satin, a considerable amount of plain
velvet and for evening fine tulle-llke
net and moussellne de sole.
The continuation of crepe de chine
in great quantities hears striking evi
dence of the fact that fashions change
slowly. So those who spend several
years in bringing certain fabrics to the
foreground have the compensation of
knowing that a material, having once
rc-hieved success, Is likely to retain Its
plnce for many years.
Vionnet was the first to Introduce
the simple crepe de chine dress with
overlapping front in geometrical out
line. She still retains this type, but
now bands It in striking colors of two
opposing tones. For Instance, on a
gray crepe de chine she may use
bands of duck blue and pale salmon
pink.
Bending, embroidery and Jewel
studdings have taken so firm a hold
on present-day fashions that they ap-
Dress of Brick Red Velours de Laine
In Chemise Form, Inset With Dia
mond Shaped Pieces of Duvetyn.
pear on materials even as elaborate
as brocaded metallic cloths. For ex
ample, on an evening gown of blue
and silver brocade there Is an em
broidery done in silver and crystal
beads, which accentuates the pattern
in the fabric Tiny crystal and silver
beads are massed to form a floral de
sign on a dn"""g dress of mauve
metallic cloth.
Gay Ribbon Girdles.
Street and afternoon frocks make
liberal use of ribbon. It Is a smart
mode to trim a dark frock by hanging a
panel of bright ribbon from the girdle
et the front or back or at the sides.
And there are. as many girdles as there
are frocks: soft ribbon braided,
twisted, twined broad bands of ribbon
softly crashed and ending at the sides
in a fringe, or in a shower of sHkea
buds.
An Old Favorite.
The vogue for Paisley shawl pat
terns has new ramifications daily.
Paisley handkerchiefs are the latest
expression of this vogue. There are
Paisley underskirts also, of thin silk,
faced with bright blues or red.
NEWOPERA GOWNS
Dazzling Display of Finery at Re
cent Opening.
Fashion Writer Tells of Wonderfully
Attractive Attire Worn by Women
of New York.
The splendidly gowned women on
the opera's opening night served to
emphasize that American women are
finding themselves in the way of dress,
observes a fashion writer in the New
York Times. They were a dlstin
gulshed company In their gorgeous col
orlngs, their brocades and their silkf
and chiffons Intricately draped and ar
ranged.
Every gown seemed made to provi
that art In dress had become a tangi
ble thing. There was glitter and coloi
and beautiful design without end. And
the general bearing of each woman
semed to assert that she was happy
In the clothes she wore. There was a
universal nlr of good dressing because
of the pleasure It carried with It not
that urge of duty because a social oc
casion demanded.
The sliver find gold materials uced
In the making of many gowns and
wraps gave a sort of Oriental splendor
to the whole scene. Then there were
the brightest of velvets draped Into
gowns which followed the lines of the
figure as an artistic whole. Only for
the most youthful of the dresses was
trimming used tn'uny great extent, for
the average gown was severely plain
except for Its fine fabric and the beau
ty of the way In which thot was ar
ranged by artistic hands.
Of lace there was any quantity. It,
too, had threads of silver and gold
evident In Its weaving, and wherever
It was used there was an effect of
gorgeousness and the expenditure of
money, which necessarily must mark
the opening of so fine a spectacle as
the opera.
The opera's first night made clear
that this Is the day of color, and not
any compromising color nt that. Every
gown was brilliant In some respect, for
even when black they were supple
mented by pure white nnd became a
colorful thing by reason of contrast.
There was much cerise. In the most
vivid of tones. There also were shades
of brilliant green, and all manner of
pinks nnd purples, besides quantities
of silver and gold everywhere evident
There were numbers of velvet
dresses, nnd In almost every Instance
the fabric wns taken In hand and
draped In harmony with the figure that
It wns pleased to adorn. Usually there
was Just one medallion or ornament
somewhere about the gown, used to
hold the folds of the draping In place.
But It was woven of brilliants or
beads, or else It was heavily embroid
ered until It became the center of at
traction. It Is the medallion that
counts on the modern evening dress,
for there Is no other sort of legitimate
trimming sanctioned by the latest rules
of dress.
Brocades were done In the same
manner.
DINNER AND THEATER GOWN
For the business Brl who must
choose a gown which she can wear to
dinner and the theater, bet which must
be also worn st the office on eueh oc
casions, this would be satisfactory. It
Is of blue canton crepe, with loose
panele at the side and bertha of ecru
crepe and lace.
Entire Blouse of Beads.
The high mark was reached In thi
bead-developed article of apparel in
a blouse recently displayed wherein
the entire garment was made of beads.
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This hat is a shape becoming to
nearly any face. It Is made cf that
popular shade cocoa brown, with or
nament In gold. The drees Is of knit
ted silk In tan, with stenciled pattern
of cocoa brown.
USE LACE FOR FORMAL GOWNS
Metal and Spanish Ideas Are Widely
Featured; Bertha Collars
Are Becoming.
The prevalence of lace In the for
mal frock is noted In practically all
of the new models now being shown.
The wide metal laces draped over
metal tissues nre particularly featured
for evening, says the Dry Goods Econ
omist. Next In demand are the Span
ish laces In black, cream and all the
leading shades.
These laces adapt themselves well
to the straight-line gowns and flow
ing drapes but they seem almost as
effective in the very full skirts which
are n complement of the close-fitting
bodice.
Perhaps the newest outlet for laeet
Is in the wide bertha collars, which
nre shown on some of the formal aft
ernoon nnd dinner dresses. These
dresses are usually made of velvet,
taffeta or satin nnd the collars are
of the finest hand-made French or
Belgian laces, usually In a deep cream
or ecru.
These collars nre becoming to al
most every type nnd as a consequence
they nre being copied on cheaper gar
ments and In laces which nre machine
made, but very effective. The neck
wear houses have takrr advantage of
this new vogue nnd are showing vari
ous designs, including slashed models,
which are very effectively worn on
the dark fabric street dresses with
the bateau neckline.
Worn with the outdoor suits are
blouses trimmed with very narrow
Irish crochet edges, while with the
tailored suits of finer materials the
wide Irish crochet, filets and Venlces
are still seen.
Jinny of the very elaborate formal
suits nre of the three-piece variety,
which lend themselves admirably to
the use of the bertha collar. A bit
of lace around the neck Is so much
more becoming to most people than
the puritanical neckline that very few
of these more formal frocks are
shown without this bit of accompany
ing lace.
THE NEW FANS OF FEATHERS
Latest Paris Accessory for the Eve
ning Toilette Shows Wealth
of Plumage.
Paris has succeeded In keeping the
feather fan as the smartest accessory
to the evening toilette, and the Amer
ican woman Is quick In accepting this
most feminine article, adding, as It
does, to the plcturesqueness of dress.
In addition to ostrich, which Is
usually in straight, uncurled and burnt
effects, there are the plumages of the
vulture, coque and pheasant. The un
superstitious woman will defy fate by
carrying a fan made of an enormous
spread of peacock feathers.
A most effective fan imported by
one of the leading manufacturers of
feather novelties consists of the pea
cock's feathers dyed In flame color
and mounted on a carved galallth
handle, In which the natural colorings
of the peacock's feathers are con
tinued. A similar fan of vulture feathers Is
also dyed In flame color. In another,
plumes of the pheasant, which In their
natural state are gray speckled with
black, are dyed to a vivid yellow, the
black affording a striking contrast.
A shell handle completes this ".
Smart Evening Modes.
One of the most interesting places to
study smart evening modes Is the thea
ter. First nights, especially, bring their
quota of lovely fashions, both on the
stage and off. The woman who still
is old-fashioned enough to enjoy seeing
the first 15 minutes of the first act and
still Interested enough to go early and
watch the first costumes appear Is re
warded In the procession of lovely
clothes that she sees.
Oriental Headdress.
There is now shown a sumptuous ori
ental headdress of almost hatlike pro
portions for wear with an evening cos
tume. The basis of the headdress,
which comes low upon the forehead
and over the ears. Is gold doth, In
this la so covered with Jeweled cabo
chons and dangling Jeweled chains as
to be almost invisible.
THE USEJF FUR
Hems of Rich Peltry Placed on
Skirts and Sleeves.
Some of the Latest Models Show Arm
Coverings of Exaggerated Size,
Elaborately Trimmed.
A deep hem of rich fur Is often In
troduced on velvet skirts, mysterious
folds draped on the hips and the
corsage high necked and tight fitting.
Cross-over corsages are bordered with
a band of fur which runs from the
left shoulder to the right hip. It is
a case of fur everywhere, and on
everything.
In evidence of this, you have only
to study the model sketched. This Is
a beautiful winter wrap made of gray
wool velvet and lavishly trimmed with
bands of gray fox. The bands are
separated by lines of gray silk em
broidery. You will note bat the sleeves are
very much trimmed, three bands of
fur on each. This Idea of trimmed
sleeves is becoming more and more
popular. Indeed, some of the lnt'
Attractive Wrap of Iron Gray Wool
Velvet With Bands of Gray Fox.
models show sleeves ot exaggerated
size trimmed with frills, ruchlngs and
narrow bands of fur. The 6leeve It
self Is often of leg-o-mutton outline
and when it Is combined with a tight
corsage cut high to the neck the whole
outline Is unexpected, even startling.
The high, shaped, fur collar shown
In the model is the latest notion ol
Medicls design; this collar is emi
nently becoming nnd cozy looking.
Similar collars are applied to severe
ly pluln tailored coats, and with the
best results.
BANDANNA BRINGS NEW FAD
Gay Handkerchiefs Used In Varioui
Ways Afford Decoration That
Is Much in Limelight.
Last summer when women at one
of the famous French watering placet
appeared with gay bandanna hand
kerchiefs tied about the neck or loose
ly twisted to form a sash on a simple
frock of silk or wool, they Introduced
a new fashion note. This was Just
the beginning of a fad for handker
chief decoration that Is spreading like
wildfire and apparently lack of Imag
ination only will limit Its uses.
Almost every woman has seen the
blouses made of two bandanna bund
kerchiefs. Gay In color, sulking In
design, these are admirably adapted
for wear with the sport suits of tweed
or homespun. Many women are wear
ing these handkerchiefs as collars on
frocks of blue serge or tricotine. One
extremely smart-looking girl, whose
frock of serge was noticed for its ap
pearance of smart slmplldty, wore a
handkerchief tied about her neck with
the ends slipped through a slash In
the front of her waist.
The bandanna headdress, so familiar
In beach costumes. Is repeated In sev
eral of the most interesting coiffure
decorations of the winter season.
These are made of a triangle of tinsel
brocade, and are brought tight about
the head and tied In a knot at the
left side. They give a gypsy look
that ls piquant and extremely fetch
ing. For Evening Wraps.
In materials for evening wraps, Tel
rets and metallic brocades are most
effective. They are used either alose
or in combination with velvet, and
many have elaborate fur trimmings.
Metal Ribbon.
Narrow two-toned metal ribbon It
need to simulate embroidery oa a
frock of faille. In an Intricate de
sign It almost covers the emtlre dress
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The softly draped gown is tmiver
sally becoming. The charming model
Is fashioned of orchid crepe romaln
and softly draped about the feet. The
girdle Is of twisted orchid crepe and
silver doth, and fastens with a rose.
FASHION HINTS FOR SPRING
Manufacturers Turning Their Atten
tion to Models for Retort Wear;
Demand for Velvet.
Dress manufacturers, or at least
those specializing In Palm Beach
I wear, are turning their attention to
models for resort wear. While only a
few are actually showing numbers
now, there nre many who have cos
tumes In the making. As to be ex
pected, outdoor wear Is receiving a
great amount of attention, with dance
and dinner frocks also much to the
fore.
For Immediate delivery a strong de
mand ls still expressed for the velvet
frock, both for day and evening wear.
Deliveries are still slow, owing to the
scarcity of the fabric. Buyers are
especially anxious to secure deliv
eries on evening models, because of
the arrival of the real winter social
season.
The twill dress remains a favorite.
with Jersey also called for. A call
wns expressed for sleeveless frocks of I
Jersey, a call which occasioned sur-t
prise.
Canton crepe maintains a position
of favoritism with Hat crepes a strong i
second. !
Everywhere one
lines" In the air.
hears "spring
APPAREL OF PRESENT SEASON
Close Alliance in the Making of All.
Wearables Is One of the
Dominant Features. I
All articles of apparel are closely
allied this season In their making;
soutache braiding has been introduced
on the short Jackets and on dresses,
and the milliners of Paris made some
very clever hats In this mode as well.
The first hats of this type which came
Into the country were not stressed to
any very great extent here, but as the
season has progressed retail shops
featured them. Naturally enough,
these hats are always in black or dark
brown nnd are rarely trimmed In any
thing except soutache buttons or per
haps a tsb of fur.
It Is Interesting to know Just bow
Important the dnnclng turban has be
come, and nt all smart restaurants one
sws It worn In increasing quantities.
Gold or sliver lame cloths make these
turlmns for the most part, nnd al
though there are smart brocades In
tinsel and color shown In the shops
and worn, these nre very much In the
minority. Probably the reason is that
the colored brocades are so much more
expensive than the plain gold and sil
ver novelties.
Best In Dark Shades.
Color is a special problem for people
with stout figures, who appear at their
best In dark shades. Checks should
be avoided, especially if bright, on gar
ments for stouts and among the stripes
the subdued are the best. Light colors
should be employed on stouts as little
as possible, as they reflect too much
light and produce the optical delusion
of making persons appear larger than
they actually are. The color of the
sleeves should never form too strong
a contrast to that of the bodice for
stout persons.
Bandeaux Popular.
One sees bandeaux everywhere. In
the boudoir a Russian filet straps of
baby ribbon which dangle In coquettish
loops over the ears; at the opera or
ball, shining bands of ribbon swathed
about white brows, wreaths of ribbon,
flowers or leaves, or merely single
rlos of ribbon. In Grecian effect,
OUTLAWS DROPPED TO DEATH
Mexican Authorities Alleged to Have
Devised Unique Punishment for
Murderers and Robbers.
Thrilling stories of his experiences
with Mexican bandits are told by B.
W. Hammond, who has charge of land
matters In Mexico for the Humble
Oil and Refining company. He has
been traveling through the wilds of
that country ror many years and has
come Into close contact with many
bands of brigands. On several occa
sions he was captured by outlaws and
his life threatened but he always
managed to come through unscathed.
One of his Interesting statements a
few days ago was that the govern
ment authorities of the Tamplco dis
trict have adopted a new method of
putting bandits and revolutionists to
death. Instead of standing the con
demned men In front of a firing
squad, as has been the usual prac
tice, the prisoner Is tied to an air
plane and taken to an altitude of
4,000 or 5.000 feet and there the rope
Is cut and the man falls to his death
It Ls asserted that this unusual form
of meting out the death penalty has
thrown terror Into the hearts of the
criminal element and that there has
been a very noticeable decrease of
murders and robberies since the aerial
route of dealing out death was
adopted.
DUCKS KILLED BY OIL WASTE
Polluted Waters, It Is Declared, Have
Destroyed Thousands of the
Finest Game Birds.
The destruction of thousands of
game birds each season by their alight
ing In oil-polluted waters has been be
fore the attention of sportsmen for
some time, and many efforts have been
made to remedy conditions In different
sections of the country. A bulletin of
the American Game Protective associa
tion says that if the oil-burning trans
atlantic and coastwise steamers would
take the same view of the matter ns
the Northern Pacific railway we would
have little caus to worry about the
oil menace on tidal waters.
For years many birds have been
killed by the oil waste at a round
house pump of the Northern Pacific
system at Las Vegas. Nev. The United
States bureau of biological survey took
the matter up with the company and
has been advised that conditions will
be remedied Immediately. The rail
road company Is installing an oil-recovery
plant at considerable cost,
which will not only eliminate the men
ace to water fowl, but will prove a
source of revenue to the company in
utilizing materials that up to this time
have gone to waste.
"Plastic Wood" Is New Product.
A new product, made by colloidal
processes and Just put on the English
market, ls announced by the Chem
ical Age. The Interesting thing
about this product ls that it may be
used to repair broken or worn wood
en articles. A pattern Is made of
the article and the plastic wood Is
filled into the mold and allowed to
set hard.
This takes but a few hours, and
the product obtained Is said to be
extremely hard and possessed of all
the characteristics of wood except that
It will not absorb moisture as wood
docs. The hard plastic wood can be
worked with the usual carpenter tools,
and nulls, screws, etc can be driven
into it without fear of splitting.
Man of Her Own.
It was a conversation on the 'bus.
"Yes, she's a good girl, satisfied to
work hard as long as she gets one
afternoon off a week. But last week
she changed her day. It was a lit
tle awkward for me, but I didn't like
to refuse her.
"She had planned to get married
on her afternoon off, but she had had
a special delivery letter from her
young man telling her he couldn't
make It and change It to Sunday.
So she took Sunday off.
"Back again? Oh, yes. she's back.
And they've got It fixed now so they
both get off at the 6a me time. She
says It's so much nicer to have a man
of her own when she goes out than
to go out with the other girls." Chi
cago Journal.
Urge Adoption of Metric System.
In a report made to the house of
representatives by the committee on
coinage, weights and measures,
which favored the adoption of the
metric system by the government of
the United States, it was pointed out
that, according to estimate made by
the bureau of education and others,
two-thirds of a year would be saved
by the adoption of the metric arith
metic It is also averred as a matter
of evidence that the metric system
and its application to the solution of
problems may be learned In one-tenth
of the time required for gaining equal
facility In the use of the English sys
tem of weights and measures. Wash
ington Star.
A Dash of Salt With This One.
Here's a fish story about a dog. Ifs
the dog "Doc" again, who lives est
Grand river. His master says that
after "Doc" backed up against as
electric heater a few days ago and
singed his tall he has understood per
fectly the mission in life of the beater.
"The dog came Into the house the
other morning when he was cold," re
lates his owner, "and darned if he
didn't go op to that heater, and bark
to have the current turned on so he
could get warm," Some degl Detrett
News.
