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rsr: S$rpigrn3vqs&$sPBQ - -.'-SBS -r K--S(m.-. ' f 14 THE MORNING TIMES, SUNDAY. DECEMBER 29, IB95. agstvSisK Of flUftfoitf k NEW YORK LEADS THE UNITED STATES IX CITY CHARITIES. Beautiful and Accomplished Col lege Graduates "Who Labor Among- the Very Poor. , In bright anil cheery rooms thoroughly dainty and rcrincd In trfeir every appoint ment, and overlooking one of (be oldest and moot historic churches and church jards in New York, Is located the train ins school for workers under the wo iiuii'b branch otitic Now York clly missions. Tills school was founded In answer to the call for experienced workmen, and to meet the need of many young womin from universities and colleges, who, de slrioas of concentrating their lives to bet'' tering Hie condition of the lK-ople ot the slums, are seeking special training. Here U4 navcpscial coarse In sewing, cooking, Tocnl culture in choral clashes etc, and under the direction of experienced mis sionaries and nurses to tenement house visl.ljg.andasMStlagineVrrvsorlofcliari tabic work. And as the Held extends from Four teenlh street, to the "battery of this great metropolis, it affords exceptional opportunities, for practical training. The tuition is free In this training school, and only the nominal sum of $100 a 3 car Is charged for board. "" HIGH BILED" INTELLECTUAL WOMEN. If ound amongst Uieseyoungwomrnweirk crs graduates from colleges ami. univer sities all 01 er lie country, pome who had taken special courses in Lrgland and Ger many, and one blghlv educated Italian, who lias learned English, and is taking this training course In order to prepare licr tocarry on the same work among 'lie poor in her own beloved Italy, FOB CHKIbT'S SAKE. The norjc of these young women differs from the regr.Iar "College Settlement" method?, in t 'hey build wholly upon the ChrLsllan baaai. They do any amount of practical labor In the homes, bat rely uiion the spiritual work for their greatest results. Of course, their best results are with the children, but een with the older lieople they succeed to an extent that is lioyond the most sangulre hope of the humanitarian ot fifty years ago. They can enumerate many cases n here men hav e reformed, Im proved In their conditions and prospects, moved up into better parts ot the city; but. of course, their old haunts nrj; iinme eliately filled by those poor "whom yo have ulwnjs with j 011." My card ot Introduction was to a Wcl lesly vounr woman. who has been en gaged In the work long enough to hate .it well in hand. As there was a little time bctorc the "Mother's meeting," which she was to conduct, and "to which she was to tate me, the turned me over to a joung woman, whose remarkable beauty made me pause and wonder. Hut seemingly quite unconscious of her per sonal loveliness and all aglow with youth ful enthusiasm In her work, she conducted me to the baby fold. A NEW WOl'JT. This baby fold was brought Into being by a case of simple necessity. It se-crus one of these little ones lost its mother, and the father was ill and out "f work, but didn't want to ghe up lib child alto gether, anil there was no institution In New York, where a child under two could be placed temporarily, unless ill. Many parents utterly unable to take care ot their children for a time can not, bring themselves to give them up alto gether, so the baby fold is to tide them over these times, and when the child is two years old, it the parents arc cflll unable to care for it. It la placed in some one ot the institutions. Here, In a bright sunny room were eight little snow white cribs, and several nurses leudiiur the helpless iitUe beings. One old nurse sat witti a baby In each arm, nursing them and singing to them lustily. But it was soon Home to say good-by to the babies and be oft to the mother's meeting at one of the mission churches. These churches are never closed and eery 'lay in the week and nearly every hour in the day they are In use for some special purpose. Kindergartens, sewing schools, mothers' meetings, children's hour, etc., fill up the d i and the weeks. THE CUOCHET MAN. After the meeting I was allowed to Join one of the joung women on her vls-H Hlng tour, she nrsi tooK me 10 one 01 her "shut In" cases. It was one of the thriftier of the tenement hoj'es, in which the ery best was made or very meagre means. The one living room was scrupu louslj clean and made bright with picture -cards and here and there a tojcli of color. Here we fouud a man who;, until last summer had not be en out of his home for nine ears, but literally lived in his wheeled clnlr. ItheumatUm had rendered lilm com pletely helpless, and the only thing tliat he pan do at nil now is to croehet. Pre vious to his illness he was a wood carver, but his hands will no longer hold the tools for such work. He was bright, animated, cheery, very glad to see us and showed me samples ot his work with the greatest Interest. He has a pleasant corner by the window. In which is a pretty plant; and here jear in and jear out he sits crocheting for the support of his family. Afgans, shawls, edging, etc., arc his leading articles. Tl en occasionally he gets nncrder for lettering which he does quite prettily, lint as the demand for crochet work Is very slight, he probably could not manage atall, were it not for these noble women who charge themselves with securing orders ami disposing of work for lilm. They also help the Industrious wife, who Is a sort of housekeeper for the whole tenement, to meet thedreaded rentday. The mission sent him into the country last summer for two weeks, and it was the first time that lie had seen his own street except from his window for nine 3 ears, and he cannot jet ceae from talking or the wonderful changes New Tort had . ii!idufonc In that time. Like an prisoners the first day of liberty made him long for his cage again, but he soon came to enjoy the unlimitedspace, freshalrand wide skyof the country, and has been much better since fur his outing. AUCTIONING OFF A IIAUE.M. TlH'Se'veiiSiiltnmiisMtiM lloSnpported by tin- Stiito. Naturally, the Sultan ot Turkey keeps the largest ha rem In the east. Butwhllcnllthls daiuerous wa r talk menace s thesultan's em pire causing the son of the prophet anxiety und slecple-ss nights, his three hundred and more wie3, who crowd Uie ninny pala'ccs of Turkey, rcnnln In blissful ignorance of Uie stale of affilrs. These are chlcrl) Georglin or Circassian girls, presented by llicpaslias. Once Inside the hareni-llk. etr wonnn's side of the bouse, Uie poor wonie-n spend their time as spoiled, idle children would, eating, dancing, f rolicklijg, and, as a rule, do not find in Uie present sultan a cruel master. This ruler of Turkey Is indeed a gentle Tiioagh soul, with only two strong lusshins, fearof Miclr assassination as overtook his broUier, und delight In digging nil.tcrr.iu an pass ages. A-5 a joung nun, with no aspirations or hopes of the throne, he was well consider ed In ConstanUnoplc and but late-ly, when 1111 English phvsiciin was summoned to the pakice on the hill above Uie clly to oper ate upon the eyeot one of the sultan's little daughters, the le nder-hearted monarch could not bear the sIghlofhepi!n.but sat outside the door weeping heartily in s.wniw luetic ungulsh. Of his children ho Is exceedingly fond, says a lady long resident of Constan tinople. THE SEVEN SULTANAS. "There arc seven of his slaves known as official wives," she cxphilned. 'Trom the children ot Hiese heirs to the throne aro selected, and should tills sultan die or be deposed, the state must undertake to sup port these women and their children." Now,-to be the mother of a sultan is to njoy the highest honor a woman can reach JnTnrkey, ThesulUn'smotlierhaslierown fjalaccs, her slaves, the affectionate consld- eratlon ot her son, and an opportunity to e-xert some power. But. owing to the de gradfngiuflucneesof thermrem.iew womepr afforded even this freedom and influence, care or know "-ow -to wisely exert 11. The great grandmother of the prcscut monarch wasapparenUy I be most Intelligent woman other kind, for she lias left a grateful mem ory through Turkey in the number of flno wells she caused to bo dug. Many of the welU bear her name, and to provide fair drinking water in the waste places Is the blghcjt form of plilluiilhroprln that East ern country. What be-comes of the other wives, thoso who have borne no children aud therefore hive 110 claim on the slate, those who are old and out of favor, it would lie almost Im possible to say. The old and ugly ones drift out into the world and earn such livelihoods as they can find, some of the prett ones are retained for the harem of the suet ceding suiuin, ana many are bought up, at a sort of auction, by the pashas or men who can afford to keep slaves at all. But no one rciliy knows, at lease, no one ot the outside w orld. siiice'lo speak 10 1 Turk of his wire nisi raiullv. to menlloii his hnrem-llk to a pasha, is to offer a serious insult. According to Mohammed, no man can keep jnore wives than he Is able to supportso that the average Turk keeps only one. and should he at any time fall to provide her ninliitcnnr.ee suitable to Jier station In lire, this one wife Is coiiiph tely atliberty to col Iict her children and Itelouglngs and desert her husband. This rule doe's not hold good, however, in theh irem. IN THE HAREM LIK. The sultan's favorites rule those beneaf h Tin" (hem, the wives and the slaves alike. European women, who have entered the houses a governe-ses to the royal children, quickly escape from the pitiful sights and sounds, th" cruel tragedies and cruder comedies, that areenactcd every day among these women. Yet do not continue In the common error that the hare-m iuhihltants lhe all in one great hall and garden. Each member of tnls ill-asported household lias her own separate apartments, and eve'ry woman may keep her children -witti her, but no woman can be sure when some new t& orite will encroach on her liberties, when to set 'Tin-One on the End." a new Jewel irr the favorite's eliadem. Iter allowance will be stinted aud the favorite in the harem Is as Implacable as Juggernaut to those who stand in her path. Too UaMr. They were talking about the various mcthoels of celebrating the passing of the old ear,and lhe coming of the new. "Did jou ever dance the old year out and the new year In?" he asked. "Yes, Indeed; scores of times," was tho reply. And then sho was sorrrshc spoke. London Tit-Bits. lower litlMl Swing Tmok ' f rib K?sf Year ODD DESIGNS IN CALENDARS FOR THE ONE NOW HERE- They Are Religious, Sentimeu- tal, Artistic, Pretty and Above all Unique. The new calendars for 180C bear a sen timent for thcholidaylimc.as well asa greet ing lor thc'iie'wjear.Thisseason the variety Is Infinite and each one a handsome sped' men of flue art. 1'illgioiis cnlcudars the "Lord's Tray-' cr," the "Christian Graces," the "Year ot Sunshine." show texts of courage, con solation and trust, for every month, upon oblong panels ot cardboard daintily decor ated with fresh flower clusters, and border ot silver or gold. The twelve pincls arc hi 1 J together and suspended by Intertwined ribbons. Among the poets' calendars it Is diffi cult to make a choice. There are the noble thoughts of Whittler, quaint humor and philosophy of Holmes, the pathos of Dorotliv. Longfellow and the romance of Te-nnyson. The twelve leaves are inclosed and pre served between pretty covers, heal to gether by a tiny chain. Vr'e shape onrselves, the Joy or fear Of which the coming life Is made Ami fill the future's atmophere With sunshine or with shade. Po Whittler speaks while the "Auto crat of the Breakfast Table" gives the charge: "Don't be consistent but be simply true;" and again: "Talking is like playing on a hnrp; there is as much in laying the hand on the strings to atop "From Mndnnii-'s Silken Scrap's." the vibration, as In twanging them to bring out the musip." The Irmijsoii calendars are richly il luminated and printed, with illustrations from some of the author's lest known poems, for example Enoch Arden aud Annie silting by the sea, the miller's daughter, fresh and fair, leaning from the window casement over the box or mignonette. There Is also the luckless lady or Charlott In gown of golden tissue, weaving her magic vveb. Flower races present a bright greeting Tor each month, tue blue-eyed baby peeps out rroni a Illy cup for January, the new-born Faces. year, the fullness ot womanhood filling the poppy flnsliNif August, the grandmother's smile In the heart ot December, set amid clustering holly; Jbcrrles. Still another jmows a quaint device, a group of four paper dolls arrayed in Jaunty Wnlteau costumes, arranged upon curd boardin thecross-hand flgureot thcmlnuet, holding garlands' of flowers between them'' and keeping time and step In pretty dance, with the1 Now1 tyear. Nursery calendars arc mil ot functor the children. Circles of elogSnplRs and birds revolve upon a pivot a;t,bp center, all endeared to childish hearts,Jt)y .expression and u bit of Tmt"' ort - A calendar fojjiark off the months and dayB of our "roost precious time. If not chosen for us lissome thoughtful friend, we should scleetaccdrdlngtoourlaeteandniood, renumbering Ihnt for nil the year refund it will confront us each day in its familiar place, a gleam of brightness and of hope, or a bit of connscl or wise thought. m m m For taiene&'S' F&wfte Desire RICH ICES AND SOME TRICKS IN MAKING THEM. Excellent Recipes for Dainty Flavors That Will Appeal to Women in General. Of all American desserts Ice cream ranks the highest. From the rich to the iioor it Ii tmh ers.iL TheflnestlstheNeapolllan, which Isfound In ei-ry cafe In Europe. For Its rival the Philadelphia made In thaf'Ciiy of Brother ly Loe" takes a wide margin. For these, the purest of milk aud cream which In rich ness and flavor is unrivaled. In Europe Uie're isbut little distinction be tween creams and waterices. In Italy they are called sherbet. In Germany gefrons, or something fre)7en, while In France they use tne term glare, and in England and Amer ica the 11 ord Ice Is applied to all forms of frozen confictloncry. VANILLA ICE CREAM. Tut In the&auccp-intfn thctlre.a quart of milk, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, three tnblcspoonsful ot extractor tanilla. and eight yolks of eggs; Bttr with an egg- ueater, anu, mini beginning to thicken, without boiling, strain j our mixture and al io w it to become cold. PHcc the tin freezer Into the pall be longing to it and surround It withthojiped Ice mixed with a bilt poand of rock sail; pour your cream Into the tin can which cover and then turn the Inndle at the side of the pall rapidly around for a few ino menls;take off the cover from the can and wltli a spoon eletach any of the cream which ma) have frozen to tl c side. Again put on the cover, continue to turn Uie handle, reiieating from time to time Uie operation tlras clescrUhsl pressing the cream down wl(a spoon so as to make it thoronghlyaiBooth. After the cream Is thoroJghly f rrjz pat It hito a mild pla-c place on top ajejick piece of paper and sunt aown tn jeover securely. 1'iace yoar mold In aUhowl, surround It with chopped ice with, which mix two hand ful? of rock gilt. Just before rervlng turn your Ice tieenn out ot the mold by dipping it a fewJecopds in Teann water. The vanilla bean vrill glvo as fine a flavor as the extract Ir perfumed. ,4'tit In the saucepan on the fire a pint and a Inlr of nrilk, the yolks of eggs about Uie number of eight, fourteen ounces of sugar, and.lialC5i "pint or ery strong, black coffee. Stir wgll wltli an egg-beater and when beglnnlngfto thicken without bulling strain j our mixture and allow It to become cold, and freezf as anllti ice cre-nm. FKOiEK VlTSTAP.n. Three quartsyj; area m, 18 eggs, 2 pounds ot sugar, and senjtoRw itn extract of vanilla according te la5u?.".Tut2 crnarts ot e.reaii into a farina bofler oi or a quick fire, l-c.it the eggs and sugar-M a paste and beat to a f6fe MATLV GIHI.S OF I'AHIS. "Ilrr llodlco ot Tulo Itoe." "Slii'Kncvv TIow to Wenr Mack." "In Silk cream as light as possible. Add to It the hot cream, stir well and as soon as It rorms a thick coatingon the spoon takelt of f thef ire. Add the remaining quart ot cream and sUr unUI cold. Strain, freeze and serve To every pint of svrup allow a pint of lemon Juice, the rind of four lemons. Itub thesugarou the rind of Uie lemons, a,nd with It make a syrup. Strain the lemon Juice and add to It the other Ingredients. Stir well and put tho mixture in the freezing pot, ouehalf 6oon will freeze this mixture. One-half cupful of water, and two-thirds of a cupful of sugar Imlled together for halt an hour. Three eggs beaten well aud stirred into the boiling sirup aud the saucepan containing the mixture Is placed Into one of boiling water. For eight min utes the mixture' is vigorously beaten. Then transfer the saucepanrom the pan ot hot wntcr to one of colel water, beat the mixture until cold. A teaspoonful of vo, nilla extract and a pint of cream whipped to a froth arc added. The mixture again stirred well. Put Into paper cascs&hnpcd like enke pans, three or four luetics long. A.elozcn mid a half ma ccaroousarc browned lutheoven.aiHlattertheyhaveL'ec-orocbard aud cold they arc rolled fine and sprinkled over cacti biscuit. Jilts. OLIVER BELL BUNCE. FASHIONS IN GLOVES. Mort HuttoibsTliilti Rverand Finished. Wltli Euci4 Hiid Pearly). The latest UH'ts Tin an evening glove from Paris is''a twcntv-bulton suede. That Is the longesl'taade this season, ai d even if a womSrl wears a gown with no sleeves in It, shVd&es nor wear a longer glove, but leave thU'fleshy part of her arm cxpose-d. The g!of 6 has two IxiLds of Jew eled trimming, line'at the wrist ai.d the other finishes it hVthe top, A drawing string Is run in 'fit trie top, which kc-eps the Elov- irom sllpliniiCdown. Anothe'r glove much worn by-French women who are obliged to weai'lbflg sleeves in the even ing is the cigflt-btfttoned suede without an opening. Still another fetI? for evening wear, re ported lu the New'YOrk Sun, and one very becoming to pleurp white arms, i3 timshed at the top with a plaited frill or fine lace, set on with pearl trimming. It is much used by chronic opera-goers. Suede is the thing for evening wear, though a few economically disposed wom en buy gtaee. This Is an Eugllsh fashion. Now, In France the women wear gloves to cover their hands, while in"EngIand and America they usuallv wear them to shape the hand. No well-dressed French woman would ever be caught uuyivhere In glace kids. TLey always wear suede on all occasions. At prevent there is n. great demand lor glace gloves in Amerle-u. but the var.ous 3liades of reel tliat have been so stylish frfr two j cars past are quite out of date. . Solt. neutral tones are qsed for the street. They go with. o.vexv thing, don't show soil aud are easily clt-onjed. The street gloves havu. two buttons, which clamp instead or buttoning. Just as the fastening!), on mcn.'s.g!ovcs do. They I'O'd very se-cureiv. never come oft and rarely j set out of Older. gf (fay Farf$ THEY SIT UNCHAPERONED IN THE VERY FRONT ROW. Golf Capes With Chic Bright Bodices Concerning Which There Is a Mystery. Paris, Dec. 21. It Is all twaddle and bosh English and American flunkeyism to tell of lhe charm ot the French maiden and lis mighty enchantment by tlio constant guardianship of a chaperon. In America e say, "we hae a chaperon tery often," in England we add,- "there should always be one whether Uiere Is or not," aud hi France it is supposed that no girl ever apiicars in public without this sponsor ot her jouth. Een Marie Bash kirtseff, the first unconventional French girl, never went to her painting class wlUi out her aunt so her biographers tell us and the young relatives of Carnot took a chaperon along when going out to air Uie pet poodle. But I know it to be a matter of fact that French girls hac their own lively little time in their own way, and that there Is not as much as an elderly cousin In the A Sunipli of Early Ernbroldiy. background to catch tho whispered bits or fun. TO THE MATINEE. I enjoy going to the theater of a theater afternoon, to see the carriages dnvlnp up and depositing their freight of pretty girls. French mammas shop Industriously, going religiously from shop to shop, after uoou in and afternoon out. The tea tables, except those open for business In the shop ping quarters of the town, are desctte-d, and rnanv-'a hostess extinguishes the little alcohol fhirae, locks up her small gold spoons, ami sallies out to Join the KhoppeTs. when she should be at home brewing tea for callers. At the door of Uie theater the young worun, who nre as averse to shopping as their niatumas are prone to U. are de posited, and fifteen minutes later, after pruning and pluming themselves in the dressing-room, you sec them ranged along Uie front row ot seats In the dress circle, waiting for the curtain to rise. When Sarah Is to play it is different. They come early, plume themselves nota t alk vv attc not a minute In Uie dressing-rooms, but hasten to Uielr places for fear of losing a chance syllable or a bar of the mvstcrlous music which Mine. Sarah commands shall precede her dramatic entrance to the static. The other day It was a light burlesque that was on, and such a number ot girls were put to see III French girls wear long capes, such as we at come call "golf capes," and the minute they are in a room they drop them aud carry them over one arm. Underneath is a pretty bodice. At the theater the wrap is left at the dressing-room and a small paper ticket 1 glvisMo claim It by. French girls, I might also add, have a pecullarltj utterly tinknown nt home. In Pans a girl Is a girl, and remains a girl until she Is married. The voung nUss ot eighteen who has Just poured her, first society cup of tea dresses no more youthfully than the girl who has bee-n out three seasons, and the woman of twenty-ight who Isstill a girl wenrs the same "baby waist," the same short bodice. Uie Bime sash and the samedelicafe, youth ful trimmings as the maiden with her first longgown. Thisalsoappllestothe woman or Uilrty-rtve still "a girl." But in defense ot this one can say fffjh? "ooel Working De-signs. that French girl bold their own very smartly until Uiey are married, no matter how postponed that date may be. SUCH PltETTY DUELS. But all the girls I saw at the theater that afternoon were fresh and pretty, Their cheeks were rosy with the tint that Mlra belle siiends a fortime annually to imitate, and their hair shone, with the Blo t"a' Mlrabeau loves to catch in his coiffures. The play was a new one, aud the tnatince girls were out in full trce, each trying to look a IlUle pretUer than the others. The girl 11 pon the end was of the type that Freiirti woinenlovetobe. "Mondlcu."says a French woman whose daughters arc thin aud angular, "I would give my next win nings at the Grand. Trlx itjuy Aline could be as plump as your Grece." Aline Is thin cheeked, clilcaudbrllhanteycd, whllcGrece Is fat und buttery looking, with the rich olive Uusl foreigners love, mountiug to her deep-hued curl3. Tlie girl uiMjii the end, the Grece type, worea waist that you would have declared to be one part of her suit, but after a lit tle exiiericnccMn Paris one learns Hurt there are no suits made, except for very nice oc casions, and that the skirt and bodice are the accepted types of dress. Grecu's bodice- was or red and brown, striped with the plaids cut crossways. There was a broad band of black In it, running across to cut off thebrlllmnt cloUi. This was upon a yoke ot light brown, and there were very dainty ribbon trimmings of yellow, put on with a ribbon that was lined with brown. Her hat was In yellow and bronn, with an openwork brim, and it set back at a Ult tint cubs the air hori zontally and does not shutoff thestage from those behind. Fr' nrtiglrl3 arovery economical, with the kind ot economy that is forced upon one. In this town no young woman mirries with out a dower. Be she ever so poor she has money in her own right, and In the upper grads of society sh" ge-t-s a good husband in proportion to the dowry she wUl re relve. At least It seems so, lor the girls who carry the liest bank account to the bridal altar are the ones whose husbands lead France in all senses, politically, social ly and professionally. SAVING ON BODICES. To accomplish this much-desired dower the French girl sav es money. She is taught to save it and made to save it. Her al lowance or 1100 francs ($20) per month a very large sum Is cut into one-half by her ileslgning mamma, who puts the other half away. What has this got to do with bodices? A very gre-at deal. This bodice worn by the girl upon one end was fashioned to go with three skirts, brown, yellow and black, -3r nml Velvet mid CIntli. looking as lf-lt were made spcclilly for each one. Anil more, the ribbon trimmings upon the waLstcou'd bennliltch"l,andrther onc-3 put on, making the- waist appear like an entirely new one. That-is the French way of saving money without lielng dowdy. IenjoycdlookingataSpanish-faccdyoumr woman with a big hat. She was In mourn ing, but shCknew how to wear black. Her gown was of rough, heavy hkick cloUi, mado with balloon sleeves and a quite simple round waist. Hound her neck she hadawhiteerminecollar.audathrrshouldcr were stems and stems of green, holly, mistletoe and vines. Thev fell down" her back nearlv to her waist. Nothing enlivens b'aek like living green, and I was not sur prised to st? the natural sprays falling oypr her hat. Naughty French minx! She knew sh had no business to masquerado her bkick apparel in lhat way, and more than onco as I looked at her I caught her with up raised hard as though arranging her veil and fixing the greens upon her hat like an afterthought. Itut they were stitched upon the hat. That I know, fori tweaked one In the crowd going out. There is such a reaction here against the masculine woman that toothers are fairly embarrassing their daughters with garments feminine. I saw one oung woman with a bodice of velvet, silk arjd cloth, not mentioning the ribbons. TINSEL EMBROfDERY ONE Or3 THE NEWEST THINGS. Technique of an Art That Hay Been Long Practiced in Europe It Would be utdoubtedly profitable to many a woman who takes an interest In fancy work to know the technique of tinsel embroidery. The more so as with the simplest execution it realizes marvelous effects, which will be occasionally found appropriate for trimming ladles' dresses. The foundation cousisbi of velvet, satin or silk. The- materials are gold Unsels (very small metallic slabs, showy and glittering with a bole in the middle) celuture d'or, tillable gold wire, resembling a striogofpcarls and two kinds cf bouillons, that Is, craped dark gold and smooth palo gold bra.d. of a tube-like bellow form. The- foundation is stretched on a frame, the wrong side is covered with thick glue so that the whole surface of the matera! Is moistened. Then one takes a piece ol cotton or linen or the same size and pastes It on the loundaUoa as lining, taking care to stroke out every wrinkle with the liand. When botlf materials are dry the design can be transferred. Fig-1. One takes the design "w hich is done on thick drawing parer and rests It en a layer of cioUi or. felt and presses all its outlines with" a ccedlc at tegular succeeding Inter vals. TLe elevation, caused by the prick ing on the wrong side, is to Le pohshed off with fine sand rarer. Thru the design is laid on the lounoation, fastened In a man ner that it cannot change Its position, and trae-ed with a ball of cloth dipped Into powdered chalk. This application is con tinueduntllthecl'alkhas penetrated through each of the numerous holes of tte design the lines are then drawn over with a brush and a mixture or white water color and a drop of glycerine. On a wMte ground any soft pencil may be arjilitd instead. The cnibroiucriEg begins with outlining the principle figures with the gold wjre, which lsvmade to herd In the various curves of u.e design, and then fastened with tdpstllches of yellow silk. It is re-com-mendea to draw the latter first through wax. The top stitches -are to be so ar ranged that they lose thunselves in Um Incisions ljetwe-en tla? pearls. When a fig urc is completed the wire should be cut off one incision bevond I be last stitch. The smooth boulbon is cut into littla pieces or different sizes. In sewing oTi the gold tinsels to form the veins of the petaU, as can be seen In figure 2, one runs the r.eedle into tha petal ot the star-flower, slipping- a picco ot smooth braid and a tinsel on the thread and then fastening them down tu the edge or the petal. The stringing of several tinsels in succession, as In figura 3, Is to be done in a mai.ner that every newly added tinsel covers half or the pre ceding one. The craped bouflion, which Is appbed as middle vein, is cut the entire desired length and, according to figure 4, isstrung on the needle and s-wed down with num erous small stitches, as In figure 5. The latter has to be done on'y when tho braid "is longer tba'n half an inch and when It is sewed on in a straight line. The fastening of it with side st.tebcs U only for craped bouillon; smooth bouillon won't bear pirclng. and must, therefore, be fastened piece for piece, even when .1 straight line has to be made ot them. In curved positions, figure C, also the craped bouillon is sewn on in pieces, and so closely united as to appear uncut. To make the border. fLrure 7, Uraids ot equal size are used, sewn on with back stitches, so tliat every piece reaches to the middle of the preceduig. In effecting tins, the needle must, push aside the sewn on piece of braid to hUe the one end if the. succeeding piece under It. which. In Its turn. covers the lower wid of the preceding one. To make the tinsel appear as in the border of figure 8, each lintel is to be fastened dowii with a piece of braid, which Is, how ever, large enough not to slip thtwiTh tha opening of thetlnsel. nnwtheotherdecora tlous are made can be easily understood by looking at tho finished diagram, figure &. TO I1EMOVE STAINS. Several Subsections Which, Followed, rroperly. Will Blot Them O111. Hartshorn will remove fruit stains. Tur pentine will remove Iron mold, as well as grease. Ammonia will remove grease. Chloride ot lime, if sparingly used. Is use ful in thelaundry. ItshouIdlesteeiM.-d, and the water strained through muslin, to clear it from "bubbles." If any of the lime cs caiies to the material. It burns a hole. Many IaunJrles habitually abuse chlorh'.i of lime, hence clothing sent out wears out soonerthanthose warned at home. Thcyi.SK It Instead of boiling, considering It quicker and handler. Salts of lemon and oxalic acid removo Iron mokl and ink. Cover the stain with the iwder. hold the cloth over a vessel, anel pour boiling water through; then wash in the usual way. Frultor wlnestalas. It not dry, may be re moved by rubbing In salt and then iourIns on the boiling water. It dry, chloride of lime, strained as directed, is effectual and harmless. Towdereel French chalk win absorb grease from cloth. Tlace the staineil part over a hot iron, cover with the chalk, rub oft with a clean rag, and repeat till tbs stain Is removed. Blotting paper auswcr the same purpose as French chalk. a. woma-X's rosr AUeiiutlfnl mid Gracofnl Art Our Women Too Often Xt'Rlect. It is a lamentable fact that very few of our American women pose tbnuoclvc cither gracefully or eleganlly- In walking or standing one sho aid always remember lu use the ball of the foot. Instead of letting the weight tall more upon tho heels. In the latter position the stomach Is thrown forwarJ in advance of the chest, and an unsightly result rroduced. When one Is walking one should also at-tempi- to keep the shoulders as level and as immovable as povab'c. letting the motieu all come from the hips downward. It s not an infrequent spectacle fiat of .1 woman thU fault is much commoner in the feminine worlel walking with hershoji dcrs and arms thit Is. with these, members In constant movement. Another Important Hem that has to do wllh alUUidinUIng is that of the poslton ot the body when seated. In the first place, a short person must avoid a high, chair. Then, In taking the one she has selected, she should, before slowly set tling herself, as-same the attitude of ccur tesjlng. This gentle movement will brine her well back In thathair. If f to sit farther forward she again makes the sloraach tha mot prominent p-irt ot theanatomy, a thing alwajs to bo avolded. Boudolr ot the Czurlmi. The boudoir of the czarina st Cznrstoya Sclo, Is raid to lie a spacious apartment, very light and very sparsely curtained. Jl.isfcs of tropical verdure divide the room into several co.ri compartments and glvo it a very picturesque appearance. The dado of the wall is formed almost entirely ot photographs. An easel In 1 e of the win dow rcccRM-s and a grand piano In another testify to the Czarina's artixtio tastes; sev eral 5f her own water colors hang on th walls, and she Is in the hr.blt of singing to Uie czar the folk-songs of his owjv country. Tench tho ChHdren. That teaslug Is a positive crime. That they must cat breud before cake. That bedtime Is not a "movable" hour. That they mustspeak respect fully to tha servants. That bawling over bruises Is unworthy sturdy beings. That they should not appeal from the de cision of one parent to the other. That punishment follows In the wake-of prevarication nnd of bidlijg more swiftly than I tfollows active mischief. That It is in bad taste for them to tell all that they learn of the neighbors do mestic arrangements through plavlng with ibc neighbors' children. '( "K3U