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THE MORNING TIMES, SUNDAY, SEPTE3IBEB 27, 1830.
"" "7?! V " "w' " -r
LIKE LAMP SHADES.
IN DESIGN AND COLOR
m . w -
f wjrtT woprcp
Diiiner Gowns Should Catch Colors
Bright Red Isthe Favorite Shade,
Relieved with Mousseline de
Sois Almond and Wood
Tints Are Also
"Paris, Sept. 17.-Onc hears now, more
than anything else, the subject of full
house-nartus being discussed. In Tuns
the ck.ilon of suitable wardrobes is 1-
1ns sitll.'U batwee.i the conurterca unci uic
greatjr part of llic fashionable world.
Outside of Paris the spick ami (.pan np-
pearanc: of all the chateau ami vmab
toils or the approaching season. A good
plesj of advice that k clever old countess
uad notes bostssi gave to a young matrou
was never to embarrau her guests with too
The liuusa parlies of this countes.nrc
known far and near, for thci invariably
are -such great successes, anil the ma
chinery is soclaverly hidden. One is uiil
iiiunint of n chain of uiic?asing-nd plpas
ant events. The morning are Ieftcntlrel
at the dispos.il of tho guests, and really a
French morning is a brief period when
one considers thaScafe a J lalt Is general!
served in one's room at 10 o'clock and de
jeuner is Invariably at 12. But at her
ho'JS'-partinl'iecuJntiSs makes dejeuner a
movable feast ofa erj few covers, so that
herg'ijstsmij come and gins the choose
Th-un2 rale of tlie (Sate in lsihnt eveT
bodj must make an effort to gather
prouip'l to a 7.C0 dinner, which Is an
vlabur.it.: affair of several hours Often
after cafe anil liqueurs June been scried
it is too late to adjourn to the ball room
or to the billiard table, but then it French
crowd is always at its best over cafe
If course the d'liner toilette at a I oust
pari is U.e toilette to lie roost carefully
cons dered. It ought to"le verv drissv and
smart, so that one ma pr-ss directlv from
the table to tie liillroom and -a. 11 be aa
Some such ricti I'limer gowus hae ju.t
Jic.cn completed for a f.ish.onahle Fren-h
woman whose 1 ouse part gathers at tJit-
npenlng of the si oitiug season this tall
'ne suggested vcrj fore bl daffodils.
It was fashioned of luile yellow foulard
over an orange taffCtJ 1 uing. The skirt
was a full, pi 1'n gc"'ct. with cascades of
deep jellow mousscl ne d son following
the seams of tie front gore The luslitv
was a fu'J lilousc in ettect, with a square
neck a ail full cascades of the moiissehnc
ile sole railing from the neck to tin green
velvet girdle Mousm leie de xiii all purred
and rulled formed the enure sleeve, so tint
tlie prett est. part or tie arm wis ellcd.
tiut not ll Kill 31 .
.Small round brass buckler, held in place
tall rlious. of tl e moussel.i.e de mhc on the
shoulders to give II em that hipli effect
that issoslrinlkngin all the new j,owns
Another rich gown had a rkiitmade of
white satin with stripes or violet that
lliaded rrom tlie deepest to the lightest
tints The bodice was or violet s-itln with
lliort, full basques that reached only to
llie hips It was cutawaj at the front to
show a full est of cream tnoiisceline d
soie that crossed, surplice fashion, oer a
Inhig or while satin The hroid white
latin rcvcTs were cove re 1 with a running
ilesign or gold threjds. At the toll or the
rather scant elbow sleeve there w.isa fiill
or white satin to hciejilcn the shoulder
rrect. rinishlng the sleeve was a ruffle
of Brussels lace tlat was rather short at
the Inner seam, hut gradually dipped to
six inches at the elbows.
A stunning Mark and white toilet tlat
I taw at one of the sluips on the rue de
la Pal. monsieur cxilnlned, was made
under protest, for he iielstcd that it was
too Colorless for a dinner gown. Dinner
gowns, lie said, should be made of bright
rose colors, bright yiilows and the colors
that one would clioose for lamp shades
colors that would glow in lamplight.
If florid people, he said, objected to tl
warmer colors coming incontact with their
faces, tlien tbe errect mlctiL be toned down
by chotix. and rufrs of cream lace.
The skirt of this Macs, and white toilet
that I admired was made or white sjlin,
"with a striking! large dcMgn in black
crescents. It was nther a full, plain
godet, with all the fullness thrown to the
back. The bodice was or plmn white
satin, covered rull with white nioiisscllne
de sole that was drawn down into a
tall crush girdle or black s.itIrr-Whlte
niousseUnc dc sole emljic Wired in black
bilk was arranged, to give the effect of
B short bolero, anil frills or the same fill,
over tbe high, elbow sleeves. The only
bit of color In this toilet was a strip, ot
ceres ribbon that came rrom tbe right
tinder-arm team and emledjn a. bow at
the top i the girdle on .tlie left side.
..AJour de eou that, went' with this
oilet was made of a.' broad band of blact
aatln ribbon drawn through a buckle of
atrass. Mountimj It was a blgb wired
ifufr or brolderad moossdine de sole.
Lovely Dresses to Be Worn at
Prrtt) bright flower gowns, too, came
In for their share of consideration.
A ttr puny sample gown ot laigutrcd
cam as doth that I saw would be Just the
most cheerful, appropriate gown for a
dull, drizzly day In Cctoter when a house
l-art gatliersaroUDda Uc.oprn wood fit?
ror afternoon tea.
It was a l.rlgul shade of red canvas, made
over red taffeta-silk. The skirt was a
perfectly plain, full gi del, and the tcsllce
was quite ns plain, with only the underarm
scams and tbe fullness drawn down into
a high crush girdle cf Llaclt satin. A soft
fichu of cream chiffon w ns draped around
the shoulders in Lertha fashion and ended
in a full cliou at the front
Another dressier house gown was built
cf almond nun's veiling with a design in
black, silt. The skirt was made over a
lining of Lright green silk, and at the bot
mii there was a rutfle of silk under a fi.il
ruffle of the nun's veiling that gave a
prett finish to the tottouToT the skirts.
The bodice was a full blouse of bright
jrifii and white striped tafreca with fhe
fullness draw n down into a tall Hack satin
girdle. The Lolero was or fcaid embroid
ered cream batiste and a rurf cf the
baline tepped the high black tatlu collar,
dlcwes of the nun's veiling were draped
from the wrists to tlie eltiow and mounted
by a drooping puff.
Iliere was a new riding habit, too.
just fashioned for a house party ward
robe that was shown me. It was built
of rough, black clievlot. double-breasted,
with a single row of tiny black bone
buttons at the left side. There was no
fullness in the basques tliat were long
and glove-fitting, with two friaslus of the
lint the riding habits this fall have
not enlisted hair the attention that the
bicycle suits have. And It is real! a
fact that people who entertain a gre.it
ileal at tl.eir country liomes have les
smed the number of their hordes and
have l.icyclis instead at their guests' ilis
pcxs.iL t s.,,iue practical! v Inclined English w email
has started a fad of porch gatherings at
her house part, wnere the women may
gather and discuss and read tlie grave
political qutstlons of the day, while their
husliaiids are following the hounds
What a splendid opportunit for a dis
cussion of the silver question America" wo
men might have at "porch gatherings." But
the new woman In America Is noreathlct-
icall inclined and Icssjiolitically than her
-nglish sisters, and it n ight ptoe a tliank-
less erraml to tr and Institute the porch-
gathering fad anidst m American house
One thing there can lie said for "God's
countrj" my dear natlic land! The wo-
intii kiio now co urcsnaiiu me riviicji mo
dlstcs who st the fashioivs should. thank,
uncca;IiiEl,theAn:ericans who show them
how gowusshould lie worn.
Fillips Which Will Tempt the Most
As warm weather wears on to Its close
tl ere i-oines a trying time ror the house
keeper. She catches hernir wishing that
the butcher might discover a new cut
or the garden produce sometliing never
before tasted in the wa of .egetatih or
fruit. When this exigency arises, and there
seems no pleasing tlie family's flagging
appetite, a savory will fit In exactly.
There are many delicious preparations
cif ooked cliiesc tliat may be eaten with
out rear of the indigestion which is by
many people invariably associated with
it. If a box of bicarbonate of potash
which may be Ixjughtby the ounce at the
druggists, is kept in the kitchen closet
and used as much as a matter of course
as salt, all will he well For an ordinary
dish of cueese as much of the jiotash as
will cover a ten cent piece will remove
Mil suspicion of Indlgeslibillty and not
ini rfcre In the least with the flavor.
One of the most popular cheese pre
paraiions is a fondu co kid In small earth
enware dishes. It is made as follows
To a quarter of a pound (about a large
tcacupfu!) of grated cheese add halt a
small teacupful of milk. In which Is Uis
soluil as much jiowdcrcd bicarrjonate of
potash as will cover a len cent piece, with
mustard, pepper and salt to taste, and if
liked a sprinkling of thyme. Heat this
until the cheese is evenly melted, then
slir in three eggs, jolks well blended, anil
iiake m a moderate oven until nearly solid
It would look like a Scft. La ted custard
This dish may Le enhanced by adding a
teacupful of the crumtw of a stale lo.iT,
!r the bread ued is rresh the rmxlu will be
a failure, hut the dry crumbs add lightness
Many peop'e wild have round cheese like
poison to tl em will find this rcclK? digesti
ble as well as appetizing
It Is a curious fact that the bicarbonate
it potash restores to trilk the' elements
thatare lost li standing, therefore, where.
as rarely happens, new tciltis-obtainable.
'h potali ma lie. dispensed with. It isj
also well worth calling to trind that In this
very rotash are the reccssary cnnstitueiitK
of human fool and that all kinds of whole
some fruits and vegetables and the juices'
of fresh ireatr contains It, and as It is
thecr c-ssente'orthe mach talked alxmt
brain food tfoTse-housekeeper will he
glad to liave hecattcutlon drawiito it.
Eggplant may be convert1! Into a dc
.Icions' and digestible savory If grated
ehei-Un which, bicarbonate of ro!a?h has
been mixed is addeii. Wash llie- egpphii.t
and boll wholf 'hnlll tender, alout hair an
aour:hanil!ecai:cIuJly, cut In hair and scoop
out he interior, leatng the skin whole.
Mash thescoopedTJut part with bntter, salt
and pepper to taste and hair a cupful of
grated cheee. MtV-well, return to 'skin,
'orinkle the top .ttrr the otter haircorru
or cheese mKedwith Iiread crumbs und
brown Iti a quick over.. The eggplant may
ali be cut in drcnlarsBccs, quarter of an"
lnc h truck, sprinkled willi pepper and salt,
plenttTully dredgeif with flour, crated cheesit
.sprinkled overall And baked on a greased
pan (which has been wade very hot) on the
Bcmalas-oXjuuL white fish. make a dc-
(Udons sralkip with. the addition of cheese.
and, by theu;,'JtlssatIiiractorytn know,
that good Ainecachceiejf not bxi" fresh.
Is pronnonced by Itw proper aotnoiiUcs as
excellent ror cooking, purpoees. Haatt tile,
fish "with feread ornmbs, xatW cheew and
anchovy sauce or any ketchup H ted,' bake In.
Tin- Most Cheerful fiowiw"
shells, with a 1 1 er of bmad crumbs, prated
chece and wee "'datis" of butter on top.
Pare a cucumber, remove the seeds, cut
"TiT round slices, an inch thick, let stm-d in
Very cold saped water for a few mo
ments, drain, then ilr by patting .
."CVtl ,. lUlll, ,.lf 111 ,,11'lllt Villi. " ..111 I
egg. cook- in eleep boiling fat until brown. 4-
put a baked or broiled inushnxmi on top
of each Rili-e and serve.
To bike mushrooms, allow five or si-;
inl'iiiles hi hot oven, basting ofti n with
gravj. which must be heated first, or
with sweet oil or butter, thev must be
skinned with a ilninp cloth and the strlks
Make square boxes wiih note papcj, or
they mil be bought ut the confectioners,
put a small lamp or butter and a little
chopped parsley lu nch, place them on
a hot tin plate, break an egg lu each
spr.nkle over the top grated cheese, and
bread crumbs with pepper and sajt, to
.u ltlbboa Velvot.
taste, bake In hot oven for three min
utes or uutll the eggs are set. Orated
cheese alone, cooked and served lu tub
manner, is a very popular and sightly
- " - -
QUEER, QUAINT BOXES:
(Some Costly Collectiot 8 Made By
KIch American We me i.
A. channing fad Is that of coUccring
rpatcli and snufr boxes. Pretty silver or
I gold or Batteniea enamel treasures; tlie-y
rit so easily In any empty nook cr center.
Wone has a Ta.t nt.r-on hunfreW
three, for instance one' then placer the
collection together in a trails XVIcahlnet,
tor -upon a. Vernts MnrUn table, gUss cor
ered, perctiance. . - "
Miss 'Louise Garland la the fortuaate
V-'-I w... .
lu RpdJndWood Colorfor u Hull
and I appy ownc r of one hundred and odd.
Miss GarLtndis engagement, by tie wa.
lias Just be-eii announced to Mr. Kmmett,
and doubtless many or herw edding presents
"w ill take t his rorm that her collection may
Ik' still larger. ' "
Mrs- Ura-'"n Iv," f1 ' 0I"J
enamel snuff boxes of U.e time of Louis
XVI. One has parchment panels, painted
. with dainty little landscaies Mie also
has a jirett Battersea patch liox.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbllt x)iiresses a
pracliant for these little old-fashioned
.Urines- The .snuff loxcs, in her col'rctlon
are of the Louis XIV, XV and XVI pe
ricsls One is gold and olive greentnamol.
witli a, mnature paiiytlog on porcelain,
cupid .standing mou a redcstal, is placing
a crown upon the brow of a prcttv girl.
A tilue enamel landscape of ruins Is repre
sented upon a Louis XVI gold snufr Lox:
onv-or the time of Louis XIV has enam
eled iansle upon gold, with a portrait
of Antoine Vltre, w ho was publisher and
printer to Louis XIV. .
Most curious is tlie snuff box owied
by Mr. Edward Berwiml It Is com
posisj of one linnelred and seven lu"fercut
stones, found near Dresden; the top is
a bit of porcelain, uiion w hich is pictured
Another one in the same collection Is
or -Vernls Martin and in othcr-nf -peart
still another Is engraved rock crystal
Mrs. Brandcr Mathews fancy likewLsc
runs to snuff) boxes, one prett example
in her collection is of gold and pearl giuy
Mrs. J. Picrpont Morgan has pretty Dres
den porcelain and silver-gilt I'sttcli and
Most Interesting of, all is one lu Mr.
Charles Baldwin's collection. Itisu fcci'd
repousse and engraved snuff Lox, set itli
six large diamonds In the center, sur
rounded by diamonds. Is a miniature of
the late-Czar of Kussia, Alexander III. :t
wnv presented to the owner's father. Ad
miral BiWwin, by the ar on Ids coroii i
tion A not Iter one, gold, studded with
diamonds, was presented to Admiral BiM
win by the Sultan of Tnrkcy.
Muss Sxiliellewltt also has un affection
for odd llttlbTx)xes Her collectloii in
cludes many1. specimens of Kussi m and
Dutch work-'Shc als.) has some ruiiy
mcritan examples -that Is. earl eln--tecnth
csiiturj , when our raodino'hers.'.tul
itreat-grandmothers inciaded bi'uff b.xes
ariiong neecssar beiongfngs. One eury
American" is or Ivor, with a tuinii'-uro
pairitlng. A Dutch snuff box is inlaid tor
tols!" sbi 11. another is of wood lnliM with
-silver and mothicr of pearl; still ainslier a
Louis XVL or gold with n marine view
in Verms""l3alin. A miniature .if the
.Duchess of ' 15srUnMulUi-cinbulllshk.'s the
Ud or another, which Is silver guilt with
niello worfc. Patch boxes also are in
tUded In this collection one. nf the time
or George III is oval -tortoise shell Inlaid
rwith gold. " n '
The French TVonian'tt Walk.
p - Many" people wonder wliy tlie French
.Soman spends so much money m dainty
silk linings for skirts, ror silken petti
coats "arid 'for rinavshoes;'"and" silk and
uice.vstockings. But. after WfltclUng? a
rew ot these winsome ladies walk tlie
quetaloU Is easily answered. Tbe typical
Faridenne mbu walks 1,0, such a way tljat
the' lioiug of her skirt, her underskirts
andbewitcMne ooslf ty and shoes form an
indescribable; nun" of flurriiiess. The
American jifEnglUh woman may spend
last a much money and thought on her
even though she may- nacnen to lift her
sklrta Hhea crosslmra wet street 'the
artistic erfectisepoiledTty her broad-soled
-walkIdg"slioe, while the Parts dame en-h-rte
.ties fastened with smart bow or buckles.
Ibiy v ihmi uc licmse rarty t.auii
Some Hints for Transforming Brass
and Steel Ware.
It Is not such drudger as tbe words
impl to. "polish, polish, polisli," like Tur
ve'droj of olel. If the ever famous ells.w
grease lie supplement cd by elticieiit help.
V.'e all Vuow that the wood er a piano
case alwajs seems to have a tirlghter
poilsh than other rnrnitun-, and with tills
fact in mind a ranious housekeeper pos
sessed with 'lurveydrop's mania made
bold to ask a dealer In musical Instru
ments the secret of tbe rnlrror-Hke gktssi
uess or hU wares. His reply was loo prac
tical and useful to be kept for the use ht
one household, and If given for our read
ers' bcncllt. with tbe assurance that it
ma lie used on the most-rare tindcostly
wood, not only without fear oT injur,
lint as a preservative. It Is made is
To four tablespoon fills of sweet oil add
four of turpentine, a tcaspoomntul of lemon
Juice and ten drops of household ammonia.
Shake well and It is ready. Care must
be taken also to shake each time Just be
The proper application of this polish is
Important to Insure magical 'results, and
two or three cloths ure absolutely neces
sary Cheese cloth Is excellent and also
old sort silk handkerchiefs and bits of
fine flannel. Apply with No. 1 until the
wood seems to liave atisorly-d some or the
mixture, then rub briskly with No. 2, and
finish o'ft with No. 3.
A few drops ofvWcnt scent added to
the polish will do away with the odor of
turpentine which is disliked by some' peo
ple. . - "
If the spring' sunshine has a way of
bringing to light lurking spots In our gar
ments and iKHischoM goods, the Hear light
or an Indian summers.day day Is every
whit as Impertinent and bras and. steel
- rn tor Arti-iooon -i,
ornaments and fittlngv or rumlture that
passed muster in the dim religious light or
a shaded summer room may no longer tie
Armed with the home made rurmture
polisb, an hour or two will transform the
chairs and tables, and If there are brass
knobs or handles me has tint to ask at the
nearest house furnishing store for the hqul J
Used on steamboat rittlngs to see one stir
reflected in tl e-lr brightness
The most unresponsive metal fur a house
keeper to attack is steel, rub and ihiIisIi as
one will, unless a certain secret be known,
there Is still the dull look and the hard
ware dealer will onlj advise tl e expi nsive
expedient or sending the steely article to
bo ground at tho factory. The old fash
ioned knife bnck, however, will work won
ders here ti simply buying It rowdcred,
mixing with sweet oiland rubbing on free-ly.
Allow this to dr on, then polish brisk!
and finish orr with euier powder.
ALARMS THE WHOLE IIOUhE.
Experience of mi Indianapolis YVcmmn
With a BurKlur Alarm.
Therclsan estimable womanon thenorth
side who has a mortal Ti.-ir or burglars.
She always looks under the bed and in the
dark corners ol the clo-et berore sne re
tires. She then comi oses herseir Tor sleep
Iwtween the little peeps rrom her hair closed
ees as an ominous creak of the shutters
or a suspicious noise on the ixirch is heard,
and gemrally get up and looks under the
bed. and In the closet ror the second time
to make sure that no evil-eycM thief is
hiding around. A short time ago a night
watchman told her that the most tellable
safeguard against burglars was simrly to
place a stick between ahe. lower window
and the sash ahote. wjiich she did with
much satlsfactloif. A few nights ago
her daughter heard a crash from her
mother's room and calletl to her in s()rr,e
alarm, but, receiving no answer, hurried
to her mom, certain that a burglar had
entered and that her mother had either
fainted or was frightened to ileath.
The bed wasomptyandujbarglar waslo
be seen, but to her horror she saw her
mother lying head downward over the
sewmgmachlnbytlie window. Thcdaugh
ter was faint ad weak, but had enough
sclf-posszssloh. lef tto know that her mother
had profcably fainted or was killed from
fright and that tho first thing to he done
was to tsvryher to heal and rush for the
doctor. She threw her arms about the
prostrate body preparatory to carrying It
to tbe bed. when the mother sprang to her
feet with screams of "Help, fire, murder,
burglars!" till the housj rang-
It was several minutes arter they both
sat, on the bed and composed themselves
enough to learn wliat was the trouble, and
then It was found that after retiring the
mother was afraid the stick in the window
was not secure and arose to fit it, but
the stick slipped and fell tehlnd the sew
ing machine with a noise that awoke the
daugliter.and she wassimply renchingovcr
the machine ror it when she was seized
aroWd the waist by tbe burglar she had
long expected. It Is needless to add that
two sticks Instead or one will hereafter
keep tliat window secure.
IK CHOOSING "GKE EN.
THOUGH pale olive and other shades tit
ieeuare-niocti used tor "wall cover
ings ot paper and In woven stuff, as
well as ror draperies, they should never be
decided upon.uniixtbejr are seenjjy arti
ficial light, as some 'of thcBtjades'of olive
that are rlctajajjtt.beaottraI.tiy the .light
ot day have a gloomy brown shade that no
amounr of artificial light wUl change.
Striking in Effect.
Late Importations or autumn and winter
dress materials shuw some stunning novel
tiesln color and design. A fewplaiu cloths,
raced cloths, as the tailors call them, ure
seen, but they no longer have the first
place, as last winter, in fashionable favor.
The in w stuffs are flowered, ribbed, striped,
checked and plild, or else are in eccentrio
weaves; some showing changeable color
effects that are very handsome. The ze
bcllce novelties arc especially In-nuttful.
The new makes in these cloths are even
lighter In weight and more silky to tbe
touch than tbosjof last year; indeed all of
tbenewstuffsluok aiir manufacturers had
this lightness of weight In mind as well
. thickness and warmth-
The reform was badly needed, ror since
the era or crinoline and wide skirts, with
the old heavy stuffs, tbe weight of a
modish winter gown bus been a serious
drawback tothepaa;e and health of many
women. There Is one reason perhaps that
plain cloths are going out. They could
nut be made as light weight as rough or
dinging textures, and so are to be put
on ute slnMr wilj me stoat haircloths am,
linen cauv.isses once Used for stiffening,
and cried down by doctors and sensible
One or the nouveautes in the zebe lines
is covered with long silky black hairs on
a colored ground.. In the making a jjaiu
weave being often used in combination
There ure also nmny rich plain tolors,
superb dahlia reds and purples, ami
Leather mixtures In these camel's hair
wools, for. or course, zcbellne Is only an
other name ror camel's hair. A com
bination or the strange metallic blues and
greens that distinguished the summer la
also much seenr and, indeed, this curious
green and blue coloring, first confined
to hat trimmings and tafft.i shut waita.
threatens to be a marked featurcor many
of the winter modes.
In numliers of the wool materials it is
even sifn in combination with several other
'hades, as a background for checks or
plai'ls. or showing in even mixtures.
The result is fascinatingly novel and. as
a rule, extremely unbecoming.
Many handsome gras and combinations
or Jilat k and white are seen in the.e soft
wool, and still others combine Iiilght
violet moss green, and wallflower yel
low, with a web of black threads, bunt
stries. or ribs, softening the wliole.
The new Iwiucle cloths have aNo ni uc ! t,r
tlie camel's hair sortness and fineness of
the zehelines. hut tin-little loops of close ly
curled hair which coverthese arenolonger
scattered Irregularly, but an- arranges!
In set patterns, like the figures of biocade.
On a deign of a deep purple back
ground covered with great black buiithes
or grapes and leaves, the hair loop were
massed closely together that th.-y liad.
the errect or velvet. Hack vtlvi t. or
course, would Is? the trimming for ILU
but a Jo.icle wo. bei-aue or its rarrj
look alone, is more suited to vrli.t. r n. .
S.Ik-fines, ttmls or waied crepouatt.l
figures of i,k", with the raised efrect of
lirocade, are seen in some of the lights
wools ror autumn ue. but there are all
wool brocades wit!, nl a contrast m
color that are Iet expensive and very
-Many of the old basket weav. s are seen
in plain and mottled homespun and in
plain soft wools on the hoi-sacking riler.
Wide and narrow Ottoman cords distil
guish others, and silks as well, and some
of the basket wools are mi loosel woven
that tl are as open as lattice work.
These. Iiowever. are on shown in short
lengths and are not intemled to 1h- ucd
ror kjse entire gown.
The arc imported as vestmgs to lie
Placed over silks, in a contrasting tolor,
the tint or the gown material tchic'e
&mart vesting ror tailor gowns or
plain material are the same smooth Eng
lish cloths, known at the tailors as -Tat-tersalls,"
that apeared in the spng.
They are also In alwut the same designs
pmhead dots or star, or tan, white.'
black or red on other color grounds, 'r
else bold plaids anil checks that are as
horsey as can lie.
With the Tattersaii vcjt stand up linen
collar and narrow bow-tic will le in
order, and it is cl-nroed bv dressmakers
that this neat neck fiuish will often ap
pear with the dressy gowns s well even
with tiKisc of ncn raateriJls and ,nuch
B way of illustration of the Iinmirent
Posibilit of this, one faseuM of repu
tation showed two ravishing promeuada
toilets with stifr line n ctJMrs and chemi
sette attachments. The latter were
rineiy tuckol and doliiatch embroidered
between In vines and around the high
collars-with bent points at the front
Were arranged the urrow black satin
lies which have been so important a na
ture or dress this summer
The gowns were rciecttvcly or Vete
llan cloth, showing in the diagonal weir
a rich plum under black and a srt
black ami white "magpie" wool. T!.e
design or this last was a rarrowish gortd
skirt trimmed with fire relied rolds ot
tiatk velvet and a loose sac-Jacket with
small velvet rovers. The chapcau m its
train was equally ravishing and carried
out the black and white effect of the
A little turban of folded black velvet
was the shape, from one jaunty side or
whkh floated a white paradise aigrette,
held don n by a round Jet ornament. Tlie
wliole thing was "too sedutsant" to quote
The Venetian cloth had a close habit
bodice. V-haped at the neck to show the
linen chemisette, and was magniriei ntly
braided with black.
"Wool Slcllieni.e." a glossy material,
with a raised cord is the name of one of
the new guwn sttutfs for street we-ar.
"Velours brocade" is the title or another,
which Is a sort of mixed ilotn in rich
tones of several colors, subdued by Irreg
ular destgus or eccentric arabesques of
black velvet over the surface. Some
times this black velvet over-pattern will
have the designs formed by narrow lines
which gives the look of a soft braiding
over the rich background.
As to new colors along, with the mad
greens and lilues mentioned there Is a new
blue that Is almost as intense as. the old
fashloncd "royal" tint. It Is softer than
mazarine wlthuutany of the black, or purple
of themany shades and Is known as marine
CoraUncd with black velvet or trimmed
with any of the black braids that flood
the market, this wonderful color has the
flashota jowclsetlnebony. Ajsoitlsmore
commonly becoming than the trying vlollne
shades of winter. And when it Is worn
by red-haired woman, especially If she has
other rl-lmsjo good. looks, It IS radiantly
Newest Winter Weaves
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