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TEEB HTTSBURG- SSSPATOH, StJNDiftr, ' l&ffAIiY 1,' 189L
FANCIES FOR THE FAIR,
Appreciation of Uio Fitness or Things by
the TTomcn of America A Dress 7ust
Irom London The Dance Dinner Is
the Latest Novelty.
It must be conceded that the American
woman, on the whole, has but scanty appre
ciation of the eternal fitness of things, and
is deficient in that nice sense of discrimina
tion which makes the chic of the Parisian,
be she grisettc or grande dame, writes
Countess Annie de Montaigne to The Dis
rATCir. Gorgeousness is not elegance, and
the well-dressed woman is like a beautiful
picture where the tints are so blended and
the design so artistic as not to call attention
to any particular portion, yet forming a
harmonious whole, winch is a perpetual de
light to the eye. Tints and not colors
should be chosen, the starting aniline dyes
and the geometric figures, the plaids which
remind one of the prison bars, and the
bouquets of Brobdignagiaa proportions
should all be eschewed by a woman who de
sires to please by the appropriateness of her
Monotones are alwavs restful, and the
grays, browns, dull reds and greens are
almost universally becoming to both
lair and dark women. Any strong
color coming in contact with the
flesh is apt to deaden it by con-
Jurt Jictu-tied From London.
llrast, few complexions being perfect enough
to withstand the damngmg effects of bril
liant colors. A woman with hair of that
dulii&h brown !een on the underside ot an
autumn leaf, and with just a suggestion of a
warmer tone, can produce a glorious har
lbony by following out the scheme of color
to the very minutest detail.
Such a gown was worn by a young girl
recently returned from Londou." The cos
tume was designed for her by a world-renowned
artist, and garbed in it she was a
veritable poem in brown. The clinging
lorreau skirt was of leaf-brown camel's hair
bordered with mink lur. above which was a
braiding pattern in silk soutache with a
iugestion of dead gold. The Louis Quinze
cut was cf the same material, bound with
fur and worn over a long flapped waistcoat
of superb brown fa'lle, with 'a vermicelli
design of brown and gold; the Valois collar
was braided on the outMile and lined with
brown fur. The high Vienna sleeves were
in an all-over design like the waistcoat, and
l.ad deeu cufls of lur; the linings of the coal
were of old rose moire. The Itubans hat
was cif long-haired felt with a .border of
brown ostrich feathers: three Prince of
"Wales plumes nodded over the hack, while
m front were several short brown tips
anions which nestled a tingle tinv one o!
faintest pink, over which hovered a "jeweled
Colored flower pots for the windows is the
latest fashionable craze in London. Manu
facturers are making the pots so they can be
fastened together with a china leaf. They
tints appear as one solid piece. Ol course,
the pots can be detached at any time and
used s.ngly for indoor decoration.
A boa of cock's feathers is a dainty addi
tion to outdoor dress. It is lighter, softer
and more Injurious than fur, and fully as
Fashionable folks in London burn a great
deal of incense. There are two sorts the
Algrian, in cones, at 4 pence the dozen,and
the Chinese, in sticks, at 6 pence the packet.
The Algerian is the same as that used in
riiurchcc The other is the nicest for draw
ing rooms. Incense burners arc made in
the oddest shapes conceivable.
A dinner dance is an idea imported from
England and improved on here, says the
New York Times. It ranks with many cf
the good thinrs that are amusing and fasci
nating because thev are bad. It is directly
opiiossd to all accepted hygienic rule;, j
Jill" I ifllW
"After dinner, rest a while." The repose
under the table, of which in the good old
days that are gone we hear so often, when
men drank hard and deep, seems much more
in the order of things. The dance after a
dinner is often a punishment of pleasure.
The dinner dance is only a reception with
several hostesses instead of one, and the
eating preceding instead of following. It has
brought about one change. If one must dance
one must hare dancing legs, consequently
young people must replace their elders
at the festive board and they naturally wel
come the change with delight. To be in
vited to dinners is an advance to a certain
grade of social distinction and recognition
for which debutantes hope and to which
they look forward. A dinner has become
much more an affair of amusement than it
formerly was. 2o longer do the "buds"
add to their litany, "From a dinner deliver
us." They want'to be asked to dinners; the
invitation implies a selection. Thev feel
they are recognized as women with minds.
Most older people like the leavening of
youth. They no longer wish to be left on
the shelf of reverence; they want to reach
back and assimilate themselves with youth
and be youthful. One happy change the
dinner-dance has brought about the meal
can no longer drag itself wearily along by
the hour; it must stop some time; it must
have a reasonable limit.
Fashionable women no longer care for
silk underwear. When actresses and the
world at large take kindly to a thing,
milady begins to look upon it with disfavor.
Miss Clara D. Forsterer makes an excel
lent living in the uncommon industry of
mending bolting cloth, a precious and del
icate fabric, good as gold in any market.
Mrs. Andrew Carnegie has several spoons,
both English and continental, of consider
able antiquity. One of these is carved in
bone and ivory and has a pear-shaped bowl,
with an acorn affixed to the point of the
handle. Two others in silver do not differ
greatly in form, but are surmounted, the
one by the device of a pomegranate, the
other by the head and shoulders ot a
maiden. All these are attributed to the
period before the English restoration, per
haps to the time of Charles I. Thev differ
from the modern type in every particular,
and their ornamented character is quite in
harmony with the decorative and artistic
fashions of their time.
"A man can smile and smile and be a vil
lain," and a woman will kiss a sister and
with the same lips defame her character an
"We are threatened with an invasion of
the Louis XV. coat, which appears in many
varieties, the long close shape, however,
being always preserved. A superb one de
signed for a stylish brunette was of plum
colored velvet; it was slashed in three
pieces and narrowly faced with Persian
lamb, as was also the front and the high
Airing collar, which reached almost to the
ears; above the fur border was a narrow
gold embroidery, studded with amethysts;
two curved ornaments in the shape of con
ventional flowers swept away on either side
of the bust, and were repeated in a smaller
pattern upon the mousquetaire cuffs. Some
of the coats show a tendency toward a slight
fullness, being shaped to the hips by a few
gathers, and in some instances flat plaits.
Many of them are formed by having the
skirts set outo pointed waists, and oc
casionally they end on each hip, the bodice
being quite short in the back.
The sweetest thing to pnt in the scent
bottle is lavendar salts, whose fragrant odor
is very grateful In a crowded theater or ball
Mrs. Thomas C. Piatt has a great fond
ness for cats, sayi the New York Times, and
her family of these pets is numerous and
valuable. They are kept at the old farm
near Turner's, on the Erie road, which is the
Piatt summer residence. Some of them are
remarkably intelligent, and one will sit at
the tabie with admirable manners, striking
the bell when it desired to summon a serv
ant. Kot long ago an interloper in the shape
of a dog, sent oyer by an English friend,
created havoc among the pussies by goins
mad and biting several of them. Bather
than loe her pets, Mrs. Piatt" sent them to
Newark to be treated, and no bad results
The purse glove is the latest novelty. It
is simply a clasp purse fastened iu the nalm
of the glove. It is thin and neat and in no
way interferes with the use of the hand. It
enables the wearer to get at her car fare or
ticket without clumsily fumbling for her
pocketbook, and as the pucketbonk is usually
lodged in the woman's pocket, finding it is
usually a formidable task.
The continual replacing of the skirt
braid is a vexation and a cross to womeu
bereft of a handmaiden. A common-sense
woman of my acquaintance says that she
has solved the problem by facing her skirt
up on the under side to a depth of three
inches with velvet or corduroy, allowing a
tiny row to appear on the right; my econom
ical friend declares that this does not wear
out like skirt braid, and is a great saving of
time and trouble.
At the present time.a popularpresumption
exists that all girls -wish to marry, and fail
to do so only because they lack an eligible
opportunity, writes Edward Bellamy in
the Ladies Home Journal. This presump
tion exisu on account of the obvious fact
that women, being able with difficulty to
support themselves, have in general a
greater material interest in marriage than
men nave, oureiy mere can be lew inci
dents of an unmarried woman's condition
more exasperating than her knowledge that
because this is the undeniable fact it is vain
for her to expect to be popularly credited
with the voluntary choice of her "condition.
She must endure with a smile, however she
may rage within, the coarse jest or innuendo
to which it would be worse than vain to
reply. Nationalism, by establishing the
ecouomic independence of women, without
leference to their single or married state,
will destroy the presumption referred to by
making marriage no more obviously desir
able to one sex than to another.
' The gondolier and the plateau hat do not
seem to have palled upon womankind, in
spite of their nnbecomingness. A stylish
hat of the gondolier -shape was nude of
naniv velvet faced with cloth of gold, and
with an aigrette upon which swayed a jew-
cled humming bird with gauzy wins. If
one is at a loss for ft frame on which, to mak
the plateau hat a card basket would be
fonnd to admirably suit the purpose, as that
is the shape as nearly as it can be described.
A pretty one of turqoise blueVel vet covered
with silver spider webs was exceedingly
showy and unique, and to carry out the
fable'of the "spider and the fly" a great jet
spider with ruby eyes and a big blue-bottle
fly seemed to be enmeshed in a filmy silver
web, which rested upon a knot of blue vel
vet, A very unique idea for the engaged young
lady is to wear on a tiny gold chain round
her neck a pendant in the shape of a heart,
the gem forming the latter being the lucky
stone of the month in which she was born.
A new idea for window furnishing is an
effect in white and silver. A house just fur
nished in New York has cash curtains of
some sheer white material with a narrow
silver line running through it. These nre
draped back by means of silver bands. The
window shades arc pure white linen, and
the inside curtains are white lace, over
which hang heavy curtains of a silver-gray
brocade. The effect is novel and pretty, and
could easily be imitated iu an inexpensive
way with good results.
The accompanying illustration, says the
St Louis Globe-Democrat, shows the latest
thing in designs for silver table service. It
is an abrupt departure from the reg
ular geometrical patterns, but commends
itself in the very tangle and oddity of its
lines. The pot shown is a tea, but the other
pieces of the service are in harmony.
Late Parisian models show rather an
alarming tendency toward the flare-skirt,
which is interlined with some stiff material
in order to make it stand out, thus oflering a
hideous suggestion of the crinoline in vogue
during the Second Empire.
An English physician who is a specialist
on dyspepsia and all affections of the
digestive organs has a large clientele among
women. Aside from the skill which at
tracts, he has doubtless much of the tant
which is also necessary, if o'ne may judge bv
a remark attributed to him. A suggestion
that women were habitually untruthful
elicited this correction: "I draw a distinc
tion between macenracy and untruth,
"Women are often inaccurate because they
are emotional. They describe sensations
rather than relate tacts, but this is a consti
tutional not a moral fault."
A tastelul theater hood, both dressy and
warm, can be made ol fine creme-colored
flannel, or the new eider-down flannel that
comes in such pretty shades this season, says
the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. Two strips of
goods three-eighths yard long and one
quarter wide are rounded offa little, pinked
at the edge, and sewed together in such
a manner in the center of the hood,
A Theater Hood.
that the scallops form a small head
ing. The lower part ot the hood is gathered
to fit the throat and garnished with a broad
ruffle of the same material pinked at the
bottom and top. A facing of velvet of
heavy gros-graiu silk oi some light shade to
match the color of the hood, sets off the
whole very charmingly, and the soft velvet
makes a beautiful frame for a fresh young
face. The cord with which the hood is tied
must correspond in color with that of the
Dresden china is the latest material that
is used for umbrella handles. It is stout
and thick when put to this use, and does not
break as easily as one would suppose from
merely hearing of the fad. The color of the
Dresden varies according to the taste and
dress of her who carries it.
Pins for the hair are worn in all sizes,
makes and designs, and in as great a quan
tity as one can boast. A pretty combination
of hair pins is set in tortoise shell and gold.
Three of the pins have gold heads, all differ
ent in design, with tortoise shell prongs, and
the others have twisted gold prongs, topped
with the most exquisite shades of tortoise
shell, varying in color from a lovely amber
to a deep wine brown.
Handkerchief holders have been revived,
says a DISPATCH fashion correspondent.
This is a sensible innovation, as where shall
a woman carry her kerchief is almost as
vexed a question asj"ls marriage a failure?"
Fashion absolutely forbids us to tuck it
away in, our bosom or hang it to our belts.
The tailor utterly refuses us the pocket, and
there seems to be no place for it either in the
umbrella case skirt or In the bodice with its
mysterious fastenings. Our sleeves are not
like those of the Japanese belle, adapted for
the purpose, and held in the hand it in
variably finds its way to the floor in some
unaccountable manner. A dropped kerchief
affords an excuse for flirtation, and we shonld
keep in mind these lines of Oliver Wendell
Mind your kerchief most of all.
Fingers touch when kerchief tail.
Of all the fresh, cleau covering that goes
on a floor wheat-colored matting is the fresh
est and cleanest
Miss Franks, an English woman, has im
proved upon the Jenness-Miller legelettes.
She advocates in her school of hygiene that
the divided skirt take the form of knicker
bockers. In her judgment the best material
is homespuns, which will stand any amount
of wear and washing.
The rage for gathered and puffed sleeves
is so great that they have even invaded the
precincts of the decollette gown. This seems
almost impossible, yet it is managed and in
such a cunning way as to defy detection if
really well done. A gown is made low
necked and sleeveless. Over the shoulders is
fastened a tight-fitting silken strap, and on
this strap is gathered a full, long sleeve
which extends to the waist and is there
gathered in unou a band.
CHANCE FOR REFORM.
The Governor ia ills Message Over
looked One Field of Endeavor,
WORKING TYOMEK NEED HELP.
ThelrAverago Earnings Scarcely Keep
t Body and Soul Together.
FALSE PRIDE BESOM'S IN HARDSHIP
rwmnra tor the DisrATcn.j
In his inaugural speech Governor Patti
son represents that this great Common
wealth of Pennsylvania is in a very bad
way. He maintains that the Constitution is
being continually violated that while it
forbids extortion, oppression and unfair dis
crimination, yet these evils exist and flour
ish in our midst none the less that while it
aims to prevent monopolies and to make
corporations subservient to law, yet even
under the broad seal of the State these
wield a power notoriously to the disadvan
tage and injury of the best interests of the
He then dilates upon the abuses of the
ballot how the industrial and political
bosses trample upon the rights of good citi
zens, how brutal coercion and corruption
prevail at the polls, destroy the sovereignty
of the people, and subject them to the rule
of unscrupulous leaders who, by their
"gangs of organized ignorance and pur
chased vice," carry out their schemes fpr
self-interest by making it their aim to over
throw virtue, liberty and independence.
His Opinion of Taxation.
But as if all this was not bad enough, he
asserts that unjust discrimination and un
fair taxation are working untold evils to the
farmers of the State; that under the present
corrupt system of administering the laws
the rich are exempted from their fair share
of taxation, and the poor are oppressed by
extortion, and that such manifest evils are
day by day establishing unfortunate social
distinctions that are foreign to our principles
of government, destructive of the happiness
and energies of men, and blasting the hopes
that we have all prayerfully entertained of
our country becoming the home of a con
tented and happy people.
Altogether the Governor has presented us
with a very melancholy picture of the con
dition of our grand old State and the nation
at large. With corruption, bribery, extortion,
oppression, injustice everywhere rampant
in defiance of law and gospel, with the iron
heel of the despotism of the dollar crushing
out the happiness and contentment of the peo
ple, it seems likely that the Governor con
sidered the condition of affairs at present too
gloomy and dark for him to add further
blackness by even a passing allusion to the
additional sorry fact that half of the citizens
oi the Commonwealth are
Denied Voice and Tote
in their own behalf that they are subjected
to a system of what Lord Camden calls rob
bery that the laws under which they are
defrauded and wronged constitute an
abuse of power that finds no excuse or
support in the principles of democracy,
ana has not a prop to stand upon
save prejudice. How anxious the worthy
Governor is to preserve the workingmen
and the farmers from the tyranny of capital,
of soulless corporations, of political trick
ery apd unjust taxation is plainly to be
seen in his speech; but it is amazing to note
how utterly silent he is regarding the wrongs
of the citizens whose money is taken with
out their consent, who are subjected to un
just laws, in which they have been allowed
no voice, who are legislated for as if .they
were imbeciles. Governor Pattison mourns
over the wrongs of the farmers, who have,
power to protect themselves if they chose,
but he expresses not a shadow of sympathy
for the other people, who are denied any
Although women-constitute three-fourths
of the membership of the Methodist Church,
Brother Buckley, and others of his stamp,
cannot see any sense in permitting women
delegates to sit in the General Conference.
He is obstinately opposed to allowing Fran
ces Willard or Mrs. Vankirk or an other
woman either voice or vote in church mat
ters. His heart and soul and conscience are
unanimously against woman savin? her say
in either church or state. .Brother Pattison
is of the same mind. In his estimation
The Women of the State
have no wrongs to bother about. He
has nothing to say as to the betterment ot
the working women of Pennsylvania, who
have their 'share in the industrial conflict in
which the world now appears to be engaged.
Carroll D. "Wright, who has won reputation
as a master of statistics, testifies that he
made a most careful and searching investi
gation among working women not includ
ing those engaged in housekeeping and
domestic pursuits to ascertain their physi
cal and economical condition. As a class,
he says in his report, the working women
are virtuous, industrious and are engaged in
a heroic struggle to support themselves upon
the smallest wages under the most trying
His figures were made upon his study of
the industries of Massachusetts, but they
will apply as well with little variation to
Pennsylvania and other States. The aver
age income of the working woman in Boston
from all sources is $269 07. Out of this
small sum she has to find her expenses of
living and clothing, which, by his state
ment for positive necessities, amount to
$26130, leaving the wide and extravagant
margin of $7 77 for religious purposes, doc
tors' bills, books, amusements and sundries.
For Three Dollars a Week.
Without the figures to show, it can fairly
be inferred that the working women in the
mills, the factories and workshops of Penn
sylvania are not a whit better off. There are
plenty of women working in the stores and
workrooms of Pituburg to-day for S3 a
week. If the most of these did "not live at
home, it is not hard to see that their strug
gle for an existence would he arduous in
deed. When such a condition of little more
than half starvation is imposed upon work
ers iu this country ot "smiling plenty" and
abundant prosperity, cau it be wondered at
that the long smoldering fires of justice
begin to blaze, and that revolution is pre
dicted? The royalty and nobility of France heeded
not the murmurings of poverty and discon
tent. They laughed and danced and feasted
on the banks of the volcano. "Alter us the
deluge," said Louis A.V. The deluge came
in blooiL The despotism of wealth is no
less hard to bear in this country than that
of royalty and nobility founded on heredity
and alleged blue blood.
Parts of a 3fachine.
Helen Campbell, who has spent more than
a year in investigating the Condition of the
working women of New York, says that the
"slop work" in the clothing establishments,
at which thousands of women are employed,
includes every form of oppression and out
rage that workers know. The closeness of
competition has sharpened and hardened the
Christian until he has acquired every art
and device ot extortion, and he "grinds his
victims with a composure born of the idea
that they are merely parts of the great pro
ducing machine." In order to save rent,
light and heat, the manufacturers now in
sist that each worker shall do her work
at home, and thus these expenses come out
of her scanty pay. Then the proprietors
evolved a way to make another little profit
lor tli em selves by insisting on sending the
packages of work honie nt a charge of 15
cents to the worker. As the cost of delivery
was to them only 12 cents, they gained a lit
tle rake off of 3 cents a head. To save this
IS cents some of the women volunteered to
call for their work. But no; they were plain
ly told that "there are plenty waiting to
take our terms if you are not willing."
The wages of these women have been
brought to the lowest point of subsistence,
says Mrs. Campbell, and they in every
large citv in this country constitute an
army of haggard, weary, hopeless wretches
who subsist mainly on "rank tea boiled over
and over with baker's bread, and no
A tack of-Sympathy.
Well-to-do women, it Is said, pay but lit
tle attention to these revelations, as made by
the Vice President of the Sociologic Society.
This is hardly surprising. -They cannot
sympathize very deeply with the poor
woman half starving in a fireless garret, and
wearing her fingers to the bone in a struggle
to keep herself alive by her needle, and sub
mitting to outrage and oppression at the
hands of manufacturers, to whom business
is business, and not philanthropy. The pa
thetic stories told of the hardships and suf
ferings, the miserable wages and scanty fare
of these poor working women only empha
size their own folly and ignorance, since
with them it is mainly a matter of pride and
All over this broad land, at least, there
are mothers of families suffering for help in
their home affairs. Women in domestic life
are harassed and overworked, who, with
comfortable homes and good wages to give,
can yet secure no one to take them. What
is it that keeps this supply and demand
apart? What is the intanzible something
that makes a woman ratherchoose the straits
of direst poverty than to accept a comforta
ble living and lull opportunity to lay up a
good iat bank account?
A few weeks ago a young woman applied
at a mill for work in this vicinity, where
the wages were ?3 a week. The proprietor,
favorably impressed by her appearance, said
he had no place in the mill to give her, but
his wile needed help and would pay her $3
a week and her board, which wpuld be bet
ter than the mill work. The voung woman
went to the house, but reiused to accept the
position unless it was agreed that she
Eat "With the Family
and sit with them in the evening when she
chose. Now, imagine the men who work
in the mills and factories dictating such
terms to Mr. Carnegie or Mr. Jones. If a
woman rejects a good home and high wages,
and chooses to endure outrage and oppression
and a miserable life in a garrett, with bread
unbuttcred, and "kettle broth" and the
poor house to top off with, rather than sacri
fice a foolish prejudice, she has a perfect
right to do so, but she cannot certainly be
credited with, common sense. Work in a
kitchen for wages can no more degrade or
keep down a woman than driving the mules
on the tow path of a canal kept Garfield
from rising to the top of the he3p; than
splitting rails at 50 cents a day kept Abra
ham Lincoln from becoming an eminent
lawyer, and finally President of the United
A young woman I chance to know "lived
out" doing general housework for some
years. She was ambitious to become a
trained nurse. To this end, when her work
was "done up" in the evening she'attended
night school to secure the requisite knowl
edge. She saved money, and finally went
to a hospital and was graduated as a nurse.
Her wages now are never less than ?15 a
week. Ifshehadnothad "go" in her she
mieht have been a poor ground-down victim
to "slop sewing," as millions of silly women
The sort of missionary enterprise required
among such people is not the establishment
of sewing schools, but rather such effort as
will bring supply and demand together for
mutual benefit and will tend to root out the
idea that any respectable work is degrading.
UHCLE DICK OQLESBY.
A Story of the Illinois Statesman Who Suc
ceeds Senator Farwell.
I met Representative Cannon, of Illinois,
the other day, writes Frank G. Carpenter to
The Dispatch, and asked him to tell me
something of Governor Oglesby, who de
feated Senator Farwell for the United
States Senate. Said he: "Uncle Diek
Oglesby is one of the best liked men in
Illinois. He is as quick as a flash, as
bright as a dollar and as jolly as a satyr.
He can make a good speech, tell a good
story and there is nothing conceited or
snobbish in his make-up.
"Not long ago he was riding with an
Illinois politician on the cars, and during
the journey he appeared to be in deep
thought. His companion wanted to know
what be was thinking about, and he replied
by asking him to take a look back over his
own life and to tell him what good he had
done, what he had accomplished and how
the world was any better for bis having
lived in it. The politician, who was a little
man with a big head thereupon, recounted
his numerous virtuous acts, and as he
closed he said:
"And now, Governor Oglesby, what good
have you done? And what noble works
have you performed?
"That's just what I've been thinking
about," replied the Governor, "and do you
know, my boy, I have come to the con
clusion that Uncle Dick Oglesby is a
darned old fraud.' "
THE FIGHTIKG PHAGOCYTES.
How the Guardians of the Blood Battle
With the Bacteria,
rail Mali Budget,
The illustrations show the phagocyte in
its great act of destroying the bacterium.
The diagram (a) shows photograph ot a
phagocyte from the blood of a frog which
has been infected with the anthrax bacte
rium. The phagocyte is in the act of en
gulfing the bacterium. The diagram (6)
shows a photograph or the phagocyte
taken a few minutes later; the shape
of the phagocyte is changed, and' the bacte
rium is completely engulifd. (ti) marks the
nucleus or central part of the phagocyte.
When an animal recovers from a bacterial
disease it is because its phagocytes have
triumphed over the bacteria, but when the
animal dies it is- the bacteria which have
got the best of the phagocytes.
THE POPE'S GOLDEK HOSE.
Something About the Pretty Symbol of the
, Favor of the Holy See.
A great deal is being said in the papers of
the Pope's Golden Itose. It has not been
presented for two or three years. The last
person who received it was the Queen
Itegenl ot Spain. Three or four years ago'
it was presented to Miss Caldwell, of Phila
delphia (who has since married a French
nobleman), in recognition of her having
iounded a Boman Catholic University in
Washington. The Golden Bose is well
worth having, if only a a work of art. It
is made by a firm of jewelers in Borne, who
have had" the privilege of making it for
It has several "flowers, a thorny branch
and leave, the one principal flower at the
top being of pure cold. The practice of
presenting it seems to have arisen in the
thirteenth century, but it is not known
which Pope instituted it Henry VIII. re
ceived the rose from three Popes. It was
also sent to his daughter, Queen Mary, by
Julius III. The last English Sovereign to
receive it was Mary of Modena, wife of
.Tames II., to whom it was presented when
she was in exile in France. Napoleon III.
and Queen Isabella II. of Spain also re
ceived .this recognition of Papal favor.
Can Ton Do Any Better?
The dolphin is said to be the fastest swim
mer In the seas; it has been Observed to dart
through the waters at a rite decidedly
greater than 20 miles an hour, and it is often
seen swimming rbund and round a vessel
which is sailing ao its highest speed.
F00D FOR BEAUTY,
bhirlfy Dare Says She Never baw a
Good Looking Vegetarian.
CONSUMPTION CORED BY MEAT.
Dilated Cream Is Easily Dige&ted and Eggs
Are a Necessity.
DISINFECTANTS IN THE PEKFDMES
rWBITTXK TOB THZ DISPiTCH.)
A correspondent has been so indoctrinated
with the vegetarian theories that she has
felt as if her salvation depended on abstain
ing from flesh. But recent facts have
awakened doubts as to the entire advisability
of living on milk and beans, and she wants
more facts bearing on the subject.
Dr. Asa F. Pattee, of Boston, told a meet
ing of the American Medical Association
that he bad the gout for years, and, accept
ing the popular idea that high livingcaused
it, eschewed beef and ate vegetable food
mainly. He saw reason in time to change
his mind and ate beef freely, with the result
that his swollen, painful joints were de
creasing in size and gout disappearing.
Dr. John Cutter, of New York, tells of a
woman who had been three summers at one
of the large Western sanitarinms so widely
advertised, but received no benefit. The
doctors at the sanitarium told her rheumatic
gout was a fiend and incurable; that milk
was a perfect food, though in this case it
clogged the liver so as to cause serious
trouble; that beef was unclean and not fit
for food, etc. She went on a diet of meat
and a little bread, as vegetables caused
bloating,- and in three weeks saw. decided
improvement. A finger that she had not
been able to bend to the palm was able to
touch it without pain.
Scraped Beef Palp Broiled.
Doubtless not a few of the cases of large
waists and bloated figures among women, all
which are on the way to fevers and rheu
matisms, would improve by thestrict diet
of scraped beef pulp broiled, with toasted
brown bread, with little sugar or starchy
It .is the experiment of physicians that
children of tuberculous parents properly
fed, with no fermentation of their food, do
not die of tuberculosis, but live to grow up
in decent health. Dn Cutter says: "The
bacteriologist is terribly at task to find how
the bacillus gets into the lungs, and even
Koch can throw no light on the question."
The student of the blood has no trouble at
all. He holds that the spores are absorbed
from the intestines by partially paralyzed
organs and transmitted to the lungs, and
form, by their chemical and mechanical
action, tubercle. When the tissues are un
dergoing decay and the cough has come on,
of course the bacteriologists will find the
bacillus in what is thrawn off. But if they
study what the cases eat they will get more
light as to the contagion of tuberculosis.
A Case of Consumption Cored.
In 18S1 a young man lay apparently dying
of consumption; a skeleton, wasting by night
sweats and cough which threw off lung
fibers, with frequent hemorrhages; cavities
in both lnngs, heart enlarged, pulse 120,
respiration 20 and more times a minute a
desperate case. He was fed on beef from
the top of the round, scraped from fiber, the
pulp daintily molded with knife and fork,
not even thehand allowed to touch it lest
the human heat should change the condi
tion of the meat; the beef broiled and
seasoned to taste with pepper, salt, butter
and lemon juice; even a little Worcester
The patient was fed this three times a day,
given gentle tonics, bathed twice a day with
ammonia or acid sponge baths, and care
fully watched, for life was likely to slip
away at any moment. The cough and
sweats left, the patient arose from his ill
ness, went through college, married, and
calls himself a well man.
Old Dr. Cutter claimed years ago that
consumption was curable by proper food
and treatment. "He published 70 cases in
1880, of which only 17 failed of cure. Those
who could control their appetite and com
mand care got well without going off to dis
tant States among strangers.
Food in Fibrous Consumption.
Five years ago a middle-aged woman
came under treatment for fibrous consump
tion, Bright's disease and fibroid tumor, for
consumption and tumors are near of km.
She dieted rigidly for six months, then other
foods were brought in and the disease dis
appeared. This is not the first case of fibroid tumor
cured by lood; usually galvanism and food
cure together. A little below these accounts
I came upon a singularly good definition of
these diseases: "Actions in tissue of pro
ductions of the different fermentations in
I trust Dr. Cutter will not find fault with
this extract of his wort, given here with a
double Intent to dissuade women from veg
etarian error, which has led to fatal endings,
and to let some of the worst sufferers on
earth know their case is not without help.
As Dr. Cutter himself says, "The taking
away of hope kills many," and it is abso
lutely true that of those who die yearly
thousands might be saved by knowledge and
Food and Good Looks.
Food has almost everything to do with
woman's good looks. I never saw a vegeta
rian vet who was comely in appearance. At
best they look like badly cured invalids,
gaunt, dull-eyed or with gutters' below the
eyes and faded complexions. Vegetarians
allow and largely use the most difficult foods
in the world for sedentary people, milk and
eggs. The yelks of eggs are said by one
physician to be hard to digest and a promo
ter of rheumatism. I thine he can hardiy
be speaking of fresh laid eggs 12 hour from
the nest and lightly cooked. But it is true
that stale eggs or those heated by carrying
or kept in unwholesome contact develop a
poison as deadly as the tyrotoxicon of im
pure milk, if not identical with it.
We must one and all protest against the
taxation imported eggs- The Hamburg eggs
at 9 cents a dozen will answer for painters'
work and dressing glove skins, which call
for millions of eggs yearly, but failing the
foreign supply must cripple home resources
and take the invalid's chief nourishment
away from his lips.
Avoidable Errors of Mothers.
Errors in food are dangerous In nursing
mothers, who not only damage their beauty
for life by poor nourishment, but fail to
supply children with strength of constitu
tion. Sir Henry Thompson, the eminent
writer on food, says: "Most of the diseases
which embitter the middle and latter part
of life are due to avoidable errors in diet.
These errors begin many times when the
child is a lew hours old and continue
through the earlier years of lile, laying the
foundation on which to build the future
"To fully nourish a child," we are told,
"the mother or nurse must furnish from
1,200 to 1,400 pounds of good milk during
the first year ol its life, and this must con
tain from 125 to 140 pounds of solid matter
more than many womeu weigh," says Dr.
and at th: same time extend our business
make new customers.wejiave decided to make this special ogjr. Send us a Cabinet Picture, Photograph. Tin Type, Ambrotype
or Daguerro'type, oFvoursclFor any member of your family, living or dead, and we wilf mak: you a IiTPB SI2B ORATTOIT
PORTRAIT FREE OP OHARGE, provided you exhibit It to your friends as a sample of our work, and use your influence
in securing us future oiders. Place-name and address on back of picture and it will be returned in perfect order. We make
any change in picture you 'wish, not interfering with the likeness. Refer to any bank in New York. Address all mail to
PACIFIC PORTRAIT HOUSE. BROADWAY THEATER BUILDING, NEW YORK.S-
Cool, who goes on to state that the nervous
system contains as a constituent a phosphor
ized oil found in the yelk of egg, in the hu
man blood, nnd In butter and cream espe
cially. ''Without this phosplioriz;d oil
furnished by the blood lor the use and
growth of the nervous system, it would cease
to grow, and with it would decline the en
ergy of all the functions of the body."
Cream Easily Digested.
Babies and women alike need this, and it
is most attainable in cream which, diluted,
is 'far easier of digestion for the youngest
child than cows' milk. Many of the worst
dyspeptics find themselves able to digest
pure, sweet butter and diluted cream as well
as soft-boiled Iresh eggs, and our nervous,
scrawny women want to secure these articles
of food in their best quality and freshness.
When shall we have the admirably con
trived parcel post service of England and
the Continent, which furnishes the Xondon
housekeeper with fresh cans of cream, and
butter churned the same morning iu the
Cheshire dairies, with boxes of new-laid eggs
in sawdust, and cherries in moss, as well as
cut flowers from Scottish gardens for her
gaslit dinner table? Why on earth isn't it
as easy to send a pound of fresh butter from
the Genesee Valley to Madison Square by
post as to send three pounds of silk from
Twenty-third street to the Genesee? Instead
of putting a prohibitory tariff on foreign
supplies, let our lawmakers allow us
cheaper transportation of parcels by post,
and the producers of the Far West and
South will soon have no cause to complain
of competition for their produce. Fresh,
well molded butter from the North Caro
lina and Tennessee pastures, wrapped in
paraffine paper in a pasteboard box will
travel in perfect condition without injury to
other parcels, and the canned half-pint of
condensed, unsweetened cream, which is one
of the last experiments in cannery, could go
from New Hampshire to the milkless
regions of Texas unchanged. Your pre
served fruits, my dear madam, in Virginia
or Mississippi or Los Angeles wquld go in a
chip box direct to your customer in New
York as easily as the return check by letter.
Pointer for Aspiring Statesmen.
Think of the hand work that could travel
by mall between the leisurely women of
lonesome villages and the overtasked ones
in towns. It would be possible to fix
standards of work and have patterns so
clearly understood that much work could
be done in country places which now the
country dwellers must crowd ihe towns to
find. If any politician would deserve well
at the hands of his grateful countrymen,
and specially of the women, who influence
the men, let him make the parcel post of
England a reality here. If it cannot be
done by rail, start the pneumatic system,
which has more fortune in it than any of
the electric schemes now afoot.
That's all on politics, my dear lady.
Only food has so much more to do with your
beauty than cosmetics, and transportation
has so much to do with food, that we can't
afford to be indifferent to it.
Some French recipes of undoubted value
must make up for the digression. A prep
aration for drying greasy hair has been
asked repeatedly. The Hospital St. Louis
uses salicylic acid 1 part, starch 100 parts.
powdered and sifted, sprinkled in- the roots
of the hair and combed out with a fine comb
next morning. For falling hair, after wash
ing the hair clean with soap and water, the
following pomade is applied: Salicylicacid,
2 parts; precipitated sulphur, 12 parts: lano-
Iine and vaseline, each 50 parts. At night
frictlonwith the following lotion should be
made with a soft brush: Spirits of rosemary,
100 parts; tincture of cantharides, 10 parts.
Some Medical Tteclpes.
A German prescription for preventing
cold sores and boils from coming to a head
is to paint them five to ten times daily with
equal parts of boracic acid and water. A
noted surgeon treats large carbuncles with
out using the knife in any way by covering
the swelling with bicarbonate of soda, moist,
with a bandage. In a few days, the surface
is found in a state of suppuration, when a
poultice and soothing ointmen t effect a cure.
It strikes me that as soda heals burns and
carbuncles, it must be effective in pimples
of the face and arms, and a paste of raw egg
beaten up with a tablespoonful of baking
soda would be a good dressing over night.
It should be applied only to the pustules,
not spread over the skin.
Dr. William Murrell, of the Westmin
ster Hospital, London, recommends various
forms of incense as useful in relieving
chronic bronchitis, and as this is pleasant
treatment for all his recipe is appended:
Styrax, 5 drachms, benzoin, 3 ounce;; sum
bu! OTJatamansi, 1 drachm; frankincense, 5
drachms. This will be found richer than
any of the pastilles usually sold.
According to M. Keldyche, who has ex-
penmenieu in nospiiai waras, air saturated
with eucalyptol is perfectly disinfected and
will no longer breed bacilli in gelatine. If
this is true, and everything points to its
truth, 'we have a pleasant disinfectant which
is an incense of itself and will prevent dis
ease without warninc the neigbbois off like
carbolic acid or iodoform or raising unutter
able thoughts of sulphur, not to mention
chloride of lime. One recalls with a sigh
the air of the California valleys, balmy
with eucalyptus, and the long September
days, hazy and aromatic as with the fumes
of a perpetually burning censer. Euca
lyptol has a clean scent, like pine, and san
tal and thyme together.
A writer in the Popular Science Kews re
ports that he has watched the action of per
fumes on the system for years, and believes
chat not only is inhaling the perfumes of
flowers and plants a valuable therapeutic
agent, according to Prof. Schonlein's
opinion, but that the living in perfumed air
will prevent lung disease and arrest con
sumption. In his connection with the per
fumery business for 30 years he has em
ployed several persons of both sexes con
demned to die young of the inherited disease,
but who lived to a good age in the saturated
air of perfumes. '
Flower Care and Work Core.
The same belief is found at Grasse, in the
south of France, the flower mart of the
world, where the air is full of escaping vapor
from the distilling of perfumes and ethereal
oils, which is the chief manufacture of the
region, and the air out of doors and in is
saturated with the exhalations of flowers the
year round. Imagine the flower cure, the
next lEUhetic craze after the faith cure and
Christian science. I beg pardon of the
flowers there is truth ia their cure, the
others are delusions.
Apropos, the Queen of Sweden has been
renewing her health by the working cure,
making her bed in the morning and sweep
ing her room and spending most of the riav
at work in the garden, by order of her phy
sician. When women take to real work in
gardens half their maladies and more than
half their ugliness will disappear.
Dandelion is thejcoming nervine for wom
en. More than one experienced physician
tells of its use in cases ot nervous depression
and melancholy almost suicidal. Hysteria
with indigestion are most successfully treated
by dandelion alone, using a strong decoction
of the roots. For school girls growing green
and black with overstudy obad circulation
from any cause, for excitable women and
those hvsteric subjects who make their
friends' lives a burden if not their own, the
simplest remedy is a cup of strong dandelion
coffee three times a day. But it must be
strong and from the roots, fresh ss possible,
not the dried staff sold as dandelion, which
is half bread crumbs and the other half any
age with the life roasted out.
IFOIR, 20 ID.A."YS
From date, of this papsr. Wishing to introduce our
SURE TO aZEPfriOISr THIS PAPEK.
EAT MUSH AND MILK
And Threw iu Plenty of Jobnny-Cake
and Pone Bread if You
I W0DLD BE HEALTHY AND PBETTY.
Fariou.3 Dishes Mads From the Cheap and
ITS USES 0THEE THAN -FOB COOKING
rWElTTXir rOB THE DISPATCH.!
A famous physician sums up the virtues
of cornmeal in the following words: "Fat s
good bowl of mush and milk for your break
fast, and you will not need any medicine.
Indian corn contain a large amount of ni
trogen, has qualities anti-constipating, and
is easily assimilated. It is cheap and has
nutritive properties. A course of Indian
meal in the shape of johnny cake, hoecake,
corn or pone bread and mush, relieved by
copious draughts of pure cow's milk, to
which, if inclined to dyspepsia, a little lime
water may ne added, will make life, now a
burden, well worth the living, and you need
no other treatment to correct your nervous
ness, brighten your vision, and give you
sweet and peaceful rest"
The following recipes, gleaned from re
liable sources, have been well tested:
STJPEEIOE COEN MCTFEfS.
Sift together two cupfnls of yellow cornmeal,
one capful of flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls
or baking powder, and a level teaspooaful each
of sugar and salt.
Beat until lieht the yelks of three eggs and
mix with a pint ot milk.
Pour into the meal, add two tablesooonf uls of
melted butter and beat rapidly for flva min
utes. Whisk the whites of the ? zgs to a stiff froth
and stir zently tbrongh the batter.
Grease the muffin pan with fresh lard, warm
it, and drop the mixture In by large tablespoon
fuls, one betas: sufficient for a muffin.
BaEe 15 or 20 minutes in a brisk oven.
In measuring the meal and floor use a coffee
cup of ordinary size and nil it level full.
Serve the muffins, just from the oven, folded
in a. napkin.
COKN GRIDDLE CAKES.
Sift together a pint of cornmeal, a pint of
floor, a level teaspoonfnl of salt and three tea
spoontuls (heaping) of baUng powder.
Add the beaten yelks of two eggs, a table
spoonful of molasses, a tablespoonful ot melted
butter and milk enough to make a thick
Beat well for a lew minutes, add more milk
to thin it, stir in the beaten whites and bake on
a hot, greased griddle.
Serve with maple syrup, or honey.
A tablespoonful or two of new fallen snow will
improve these cakes, and we may here say that
snow is an excellent substitute for eggs.
Stir into a qnart of boiling milk, one quart of
cornmeal. ntitb a teasnoooful of salt.
This should be added gradually and beaten
Stir in one small cuntnl of butter a rnnfnl of
molasses and a teaspoonfnl of soda dissolved in
a rery liiuo ooiung water.
Turn into a buttered mould and steam for
three or four hours.
Take a pint of yellow cornmeal. sift twice,
add a teaspoonf al ot salt, a pint of new milk,
the beaten yelks of two eggs, a tablespoonf nt
of melted butter and a half teaspooaful of
soda, dissolved in a little hot water.
Mix well and stir in the whites beaten stiff.
INDIAN BREAKFAST CAKE.
Sift together two cupfnls of cornmeal and the
same quantity of flour.
Add three copfuls of milk, two teaspoonfuls
of sugar, one teaspoonfnl of soda, and two of
Bake 30 minutes.
Sift together a 'pint of Indian meal and a
level teaspoonf ul of salt.
Four in enough hot water to make a thin bat
ter; and when cool add the beaten yelks of four
eggs, and one-half cupful of flour and three tea
spoonfuls of baking powder (sifted).
Thin the batter, to the consistency of griddla
cakes, with sweet milk, stir in the beaten
whites and bake at once.
Take two cupfnls of yellow cornmeal, one of
flour, one teaspoonfnl of salt and three tea
spoonfuls of baking powder.
Sift together, add two well-beaten eggs and a
pint.of new milk
Bake for 30 minutes.
This recipe originated In the Valley of Vir
ginia, and may be relied upon as a peculiarly
excellent one, the sweetness of the corn being
unsurpassed when the directions are exactly
Choose well-filled but tender ears.
Cut it from the cob with two cuts to the
gTain. or, in other words, shavs it lightly, hay
ing first made incisions lengthwise of the
It can then be cut off the cob without tho
Put the cobs in a stew pan. cover with wxtnr
and boll 20 minutes.
Then take them out, and into the water in
which they were boiled put the corn and cook
for ten minutes.
Season with salt, pepper, cream and butter.
A little sngar may be added it the com is not
Take a dozen ears of sweet corn, gash the
kernels through the center, cut from the cob
and season with salt.
Stir in a pint of milk, and add a lump of
Have the oven hot and bake SO minutes.
Some Odd Uses.
An old rule In regard to making mush is to
"cook it until it is done, and then cook as lone
again." It is not an unusual thing for some
cooks to boil or steam mush for half a day
slowly simmering it in the back part of the
range. It should not be made too thick if it is
to be served with milk.
A CCPFCI. of cornmeal should be kept in
the bath room. It will remove dirt from the
hands more readily than soap, and for this pur
pose is invaluable to the mechanic and the
laborer. Wet the bands, dip In the meal and
rub thoroughly, rinse and dry.
Jlusu made to fry will brown more readily if
the meal is mixed with milk and then poured
into boiling water.
To make a tnugh steak tender smother it ia
cornmeal and bake it.
Use yellow cornmeal for gems, pono and
THEvalneot cornmeal as a cosmetic has
long been known. Maiza soap, to be found at
any pharmacy, can be safely recommended to
cleanse, soften and whiten the skin.
Physicians recommend cornmeal water for
obstinate cases of tetter. Sponge the parts af
fected. For blackheads rub them with a bit of soft
wet linen or inusltn, dipned In sifted meal. Ths
application should bo made at bed time, or
when not going out. or expecting company, as
the process reddens thsskln somewhat.
Give the children cornmeal to wash tbeir
hands with in the winter season, to prevent
chapping. Emjce Serena.
A .Politico Necessity.
Ex-Bnrglar How, gentlemen, you see
your folly in not electing me to the Legisla
ture. Bartender And what could you do. Eed
Ex-Burglar I'd show 'em how to pict
that deadlock In a jiffy. See?
The Biggest Boom.
The greatest distance at which, artificial
sounds are known to have been heard was
on December 24, 1832, when the cannon at
Antwerp were heard in the Erzebiree, 370