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,ij?^_WIIBTB?ff?-.lJjXWt4l]^ia^^ ' '.? ?? ' ? ' ' ?U?lUll-l-_"-IUim.U'>-M]l-?Sill _M--B--MaM?__a?_____^
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:. Imffi.-s <<?'V';u:'.'>;-:?|-.;-.:o;-'->-.
Cnarmmg Desig'ns m Summer Matenals
Deligntrul Diversity of Sriapes-Nov
elties inTnmiriings,Trieir Char?
acter, Pose and Location.
For tb*bse?taV-orod mortals who put ln
the p'e'nite'ntlnl aoason?nnd, lticldqntnlly,
the most dlsagreeable part of tlie yoar ia
Northern clluios?" 'way down South la
Dlxie," tlie mllliners hnve prepared what
seems now tbe most fasclnnllng ahapes
that have declared tberosolvca for <inlto
sometime, to Ct ia for general Northern
wear later on.
Kor many mooiis have the Parlslan
creutors of tbe unxle been worktn^ upon
the ainart gowns nud wraris, parasols and
lints that ahall go to make fasclnnllng
feuilniulty more faseliintlng still, when
worn ln the glamor of llie auusblne thnt
ninkos all liumanlly gay and tills the Hl
viera resorts wlth seel.ors uftor pleasurc.
On our side of the Atlantic there are
ao many ond sueli various resorts to
whlch soclety botakes Itsolf once the dead
tlme of I.ent arrlves that full and free
Kcopc Is given the dcslgner ln evory de'
partment of apparel aud In all sorts of
iimterials. Cliiaate, too, vnrles so greatly
tliat ln pncUlng trunks for tbe suiiny
South even, one's fura nnd furry posscs
aloas wlll not prove ninl.ss; for while
durlng tlie hours wlieu tlie huii doth slilue
It la wurtu enough for linen und llngcrte
frocks, once the suu ls down n wrup of
guodiy warmth Is un laiperutlve ueces
sity.
but it ls wlth tlie cliapcnux that our
buslness ll.rs chiellyal the prosent nioinent.
As usual, at tbe start of u season there
are many nud radieal Iiuiovatluns pre
Btiited?departurea from tho nccepted and
current modea that nre tried some what
lentalively, and wliosc future doubtfnlly
bauga ln tbe balance. uf course, there
are always somo courageouB souls who at
U'uipl i-very novelty iliut comes out, 110
iiiiiiu-r Gow plzurro or unhceoiuillg It may
prove. 'luo Imt that It ls u novelty, an.l
an extreiue one at tliat, Is cqnslderod atif
llfioat iu cover up a inultltude of sitia
nnd abortron Inga iu tlie matter of beauty
aifc'iier iiaa lakeu Intu account the various
inn.li-s of colffuro tliut aie aud will lio
iiifi-rtcd by ti..- varylns types of women
v>lio wlll wear tllOSO llUtfi.
I'aStlOiOUB le a fnult must be llie tiiKtn
thut ..?aiiiiot nml B becoralug clmpcttu
from aincuig the eouutleaa modea nro
ttented, and au riuluuiitly bctouiiiiK one
at tliat.
ThoM! eloac-nillnc llttlo tiirbans tliat
ure l'.noivu aa Ellgliah liuto ln tbe trade
will make au eieell.-ui clioleu for au all
around general utillty hui. I h.-y are not
hy any ineana cheap, thoBe plalu-lookliig
little alnipea. 'lo I'Ojrlu with. me uiraw
Ik invuribiy of Ihe flnfat, he it tblp or
Milaii, Tuseaa or Leghoru and It U nu
uncoininon. thing for the pluln nnd un
trimined shape to cost unywhere from 55
to $10. Thou, loo, tho trlmmings, while
plnln nnd severely appllcd, must, per
force, bo of the very host quality, for
there nre no undulatlons, no Irregularl
tles of outlluo to atone for a scatity or
Itio.xpensivc typo of trlmming. Tlio best
nulllncrs usl; unywhere from $18 up for
these Kinart llttle hnis, wlth a velvot
trhiiinlng nnd a wlng or bunch of quilts
to add the last tnuch of style. hut they
are well worth iho price,sinco tliey nre
ever iu style, never losu. tlielr stuart out
Mnes, and are. really tbe only correct itc
coinpnnlinent to n snuirt tallor-mnde.
Tlie llttle Gabrlelle poko Inveutod by
Virot for .Mmc. Kejnne to wenr ut tho
openlng night of her now theiiter ls one
of Uie iuosi fasclnating shnpes thnt luivc
como out of Parls thls season. Qulte In
dcllnnce of nll tho accepted Ideus of tlie
poko lionnet thls new Gabrlelle just re
vcrses the usual order of thlngs, nnd wlus
Bticcess out of tho contrndlctlon. Tho
"scoop" of the bounet is turned to tho
baclt, tho front short nnd narrow nnd
scarcely shadhtg thc fnee ut ull. There
uro no Btringa to tle under the ciiln, but
Instond thc proJecUug back scoop lu deco?
rated wlth u goodly number of loops and
end of rilitxin that full woll on tlie neck,
aml rellevo tlie cbnpcuti of uny reproacli
of u too scauty trlniinlng. ln front, at
cltlier side, there are huge hunches of
Held violcts, llny llttlo oucs Just nbout
thu fiize and colorlng of tlie nntiirul wild
bloBBoms, and thone wlth the ribbons nf
fprd the solc ndoniniciit.
Tho little uiusllrooiu shnpc, wlth Its
demure nllureuiont of dowu-turned brlin,
sccuilng to Buggost n downwurd luru of
uf the glunco us well, ls well ln tlie
forefront of fanlilonnble chupenux. Ono
bcch lt lu all tiorls nf iniiteriuls, as well
as ln straw. lu lnce, lu cnibroldcr.v, ln
brnided linen nnd pique? those lust n
liuulu nouveautO? It presents ltself, aud
Witli a hamlcaii that tilts at the back or
ut the side, us may provu most bei-oiuliig
to the wearer. Tbe trlmiulng Is usually
ptmed well towards tlio back, ultliouglt
ciiimples uro nol lucklllg where a slmplu
wrciith of llowers, oJtcudlug without vn
rlntloii all thc wny nrouud ls tlio solo
trlmiulng suppllod,
We have hud hats tllled wuy up nt tlie
buck for so long thut u revcrsul of this
proccsa scouis nlmost lu the natural order
ui thlngs. A forcruiincr of this suggi-K-'
tion wus seen ln the rough-rldcr iiuts
tbiit mado such u furoro for tlicniselvcb
a fow seiisons n^'o, und which havo nut lu
tbe Intcrval lost lliclr hold upon thc
fancy of thc otblcllciilly Incllncd. Olio uf
tbe prettlest buls lhat Kblher Meyer hnu
put out for the Ulvleru season ls u snucer
brliuuied uallor lu while cliip, wltb u
uleep liiindcaii tucked lu ut tbu left sldc
"t Un- front, tbe brlin rolled back nt
tbU point und tbe trlinmlng schcino posed
beie. The linportcd oxuuiplo Is ln n llno
wliltp cbjp nml u liuge rosotto of Boft
wniie uicitialhi,. rlbbon is Blnck on tlio
Imiidi-'au Bliglitly towards tbo left. Kiitbcr
more lo tlie front und right ultingslilo
thi-- ls a cumilni; arruugeuiunt of cut
ops and enda of black velvet rlbhon,
rmlng' a foliage devlce. Tho sliape Is so
aaipiiliited that its greatest length la
oni alde to slde whon placed souiewhat
i u bliia llne on tho head, nnd making
r a piiputntly becomlug out llno. Around
ie druiii-aliiipi'd crown there are twlsted
ie whlte antiu aud tho black velvet rlb
ins, tliuae cnuglit luto a fluffy bow at
io back wltli pcndant loops und enda
uit full ou thc hnlr.
Thoae suaio pcndant loops nnd . ends
irin .pilto n marked feuturo of.receiit
nportod models, nud there Is not a
ludow of n doubt thnt they wlll ussume
ren larger proportlons when tlie mllll
ery of tho suiumertlmo couiea to bo
iiiuclied.
As for trlminlngs, ono seea qunntltles of
elvot rihbous deftly hati.iied, aud plece
elvot, usually lu blus linnds and boiilllon
eos, la used to somo oxteut, Hut ribbons
?ully ilmnhiaii' the sltuullon, and ill ex
etftatlou of thla the initmifactiirers hnve
rep'ured soaie of the most exqulslte
trands tliat huvo evor been aeen. (luuzo
outera, wltli Dresden wnrp priutlugs,
ppear la conjuiictlon wltli broad salin
r velvet' edges. I'luld velvet border,
:iolru and incasulliio centors, whllo sclf
ots und coln Bpols are thrown upon gold
r silver shot ribbons wltli exoollont ef
ect. Klowered, pluidod, rhecked, strlpod
nd cross-biirroil ribbous hnd n thousand
ise.s, aud Ihe (left iiiiiulpnlullou of tho
uilllner brluga to llght several liovoltles
n tholr uso thnt como aliuost ns a sur
irise.
IMontarea of flowers uppenr uftor a long
ibsenco, while as for frults, tlio Ultchon
rurileii la well rcproB.'iited. Cherrles wo
luve Iiml wlth us for a long tlmo, whllo
?rapea huvo really boen u strong trlin
Ulng fti.l all winter long. Criih-upplea
lone lu tiiilute.l velvet are ultructlve,
ind ono seea tlny llttlo oianges, wrealha
if red I'lirruiits, whlto raapberrl.'s und
ilucl'bcrrles, nll wlth green foliage that
lo uiiicli lu n slinple wny to decornte tho
.priiig liut, of whlch, hy tlie way, slai
[iliclty la u doiiiliiant ehurucloriBtlo,
iZ&zr 2Zzz&?p~".23-<4zz__.2vr
ihe Little Things of Fashion.
Cordn nml TuiiselN ure nn cxtrcraely
swuggcr finlsh to tho tallor-innde Biilt,
ai|d even thu softly prttlty frocks for aft?
ernoon und homo. wour?thoso Uulntlly
slmplo cioiltloi.s ln soft ciishuiens, IiiikIb
downes, vclllngs und tho liko?wlll ilnd
liinuuierablo usos for tnsseled ends to
tbo subIics, Btrupplngs nnd cravills that
uro bu uiucli lu vpguo at preseut. Llttle
Iicndant drops of innny kinds uro to bo
found ut tbo trluunlng cotuiters, und there
nre bull, ucoril und penr-shuped drops
striing on n cord lliut make u cbnrnilng
finlsh for the folda and nun's tucku that
are used so luvlshly to tho udoruuieiit of
thc new models.
Somo Smiift I.lttle blousos aro (Uu
phiycd fiishloncd froin strips of rlbbon iiud
luco ultoiur.ud and bcwii together by
liaiul. The cruze for gulmpe offocts ls
obKcived lu innny of thoin, but thlB ls lu
of tho rlbbon nnd lnce' ls let Iu below
tho throat, and tbo rest of the blouse
iipplled lu longlhwlse llnes to this. Kus
tcnlngs uro usuully ln tho back, nltliotigh
a fancy for lliose tbat mako n diugonnl
llno from tlio loft slioiilder iissortB ilsulf
lu inu 11 y ut thc later models.
Iloiiiun Sirlpcd Sill.N make most cf
foctlve sblrtwal.sls to wcur wlth auitirt
tallor-uuules. Whllo somo of them aro
niude wlth tlie Btrlpcs runnlng purpeit
dlcularly, there uio innny bIiowii Iii which
tbe strlpes uicct ln n,V nt thc ceiiler back
uiid frout, Veivci rlbbon eriivuts and
ei'lntiircu uro gond stylo wlth such, "whllo
tbo now ?ombroldoroil colhiru of tbo lurii
over vurlcty, n stlff under collnr wlth a
soft turnovcr. nre usually woru lu profer
once to u collar of tbe strlped sl|k.
The N?w llciis uro oluburato lu tho
(ixtreiue. High mul narrow lu tho bnck
tluoj lilouu uuwt )""'""diiyiy uudcr tUo
nnn und nurrow down io nn luch or
ln front. Tlio back ls elther suppo
:by a long nnd nnrrow. bucklo or
shlrred ovor fentherboiio strlpa, somo
Inches , belng deouied nono too ,deo[
thls polnt, wllllo frontB aro but u 1
tion of this depth.
lf One Is ? to Judge hy tllO III
modos from I'iu'Ib tho short-Bloove If
ready puaao over thoro, even for Soutl
weui. lOvonlng. gowns seoiii tov huvo
peiised wilh tlio sleoyo altogulhei', t
belng just u strup or two ovor thu sl
der aml a llttlo drapery or what jiu
for such on tho foioarni. Tlio Un;
blouao Iuib u full-longth aleovo, often <
lng well ovor tho kaucklea of the h
whllo tlio only thing that retalna tho
sleovo for formal wear ls tlie. sinart 1
dinner Jncket of velvet, lirocndc, lac
somo other eoslly nud luxurlous aiater
^?_Z_3_^P__
2& CZZZZr JFZZSC2ZX3?
_%e .Visiting Seam
stress.
Some of Her Little Fads
and Foibles.
Tbo vlsltlng soniriBtrcKS took out her
llttle notehook, the onc ln which sbo
marked down her engageinents; for be lt
known '.hat she lrf <>iic of those raro
CTcnturcs, n vlsltlng seamstress who really
can bcw, and cut nml Iii. and remodcl,
and do thc countles.. other thlngs that
the woman who cannot put .i sUtch for
herself nlways expects someouo elso to
do for her.
"Lot tno see," she inusi-s. "Mondny,
Tocsdny and Wednesday ut Mrs. Mend.
Iinin's. .No, my dear, 1 cannot pnssihly
go to thu theatcc wlth you un Tuesd-iy
night," lurulng to her vlsltor. "You see,
I shall have te put ln the llrst three days
next week at Mrs. Mendbani'fl: and she
expects to got Uiree new frocks mnde in
thnt tluie, any nuailicr of sleeves re
modelcd new vc-lvctccn bludings on s
baker's doxen of skirts, aud goodnes..
known wbat nll bosidvW"
"Sbo. wants alj-fithilt dono In three;
daysi" quorled her' clty cousln. "Uow
many nssl.stnnts does slie prorklc to help l
you through?"
"Asslst.-nts!" srornfully Innghcd thfi
dressuinkcr. "Asslstanis, did you sayl
Well, Mrs. Meudhnin wlll annouhe'e tliat
she wlll do all of llie bastlng und nll ot
tbe hand sewlng, bo tbat 1 enn do ult
of Uic cuttlng and lltting und inuchlnlng;
but when It comes to dolng it, she Ib
consplcuously umong those absent. Then ?.
she wonders what I nm dolng wlth tbe
time thal she Is paylng for; nnd bow lt
Is that I cannot lunk/^und finlsh sucb a
slinple gown :is hoH'fii one day. Oh, I
tell you, my dear glrl; tbe woes of tbe
visitlng BCIimatreSS are innny; nnd tbo
man or woman who would have tbe cour
age to sot them forth un tlio stage would
be bnlled ns the llueal descendant of, aud
lcgitlninte successor to, tbe flrm of An
atilas, Sapphirn aml Company.
??She uevcr ims unythlng ready for inc.
Thc machine always bas to be eleutied
aud oiicd after 1 coine; there ls ii uiad
rush to tbe store for basiing cotton, for
iriiichinc silk, for bonc caslngs aud scam
bindiiigs. Or courso, 1 always havo my
owii sclssora nnd rTcedles and thlngs liko
that; but no matter bow often I phoue
her or ,write ber, 'tln always the last
niinuto before she buys What ls necessary.
Then, too, tbe thlugs slie wants re
lEodclcd are never ripped, and I buve
to do Lhat myself."
"Well, 1 wonder thnt you work for hor
at ull," rejolucd tbe wcil-to-do coubIii.
"lf I bad to go out to work. I Kbuuld
cboo.se tlie people thut I'd work for, und
I'd bo mighty purticulur ln my cboosiug,
too."
??uh, no, you wouldn't. lou'd Just
learn to take tlieui hb they como, tbo
good witli the bad, und tbe iiidll.crcnt
with tbe ignoraut. Now, there's tliis
same Mrs. M.udluiin. She ls one of tho
ignoiunt ones. She Ibluks Uiat a wholo
??own can be niade and flnished ln oue
day; und she herself cannot mako even
a tlny dully ln u wholo week.
??Wliat do I thlnk of liilti new figure?
AVell it simply means thut I have got
to get tl new sel of patterns ull around;
for no flttcd walst or sliirtwuist, eitber,
that went ovor tbo old-tlinc biruigbt front
wlll ilo over thls new Bbupo,
"For somo of my bost ctistomers, wlth
whoBc flgures I uni fniulltiir, 1 wlll cut
tlielr walst UnliigH nt liomo here, bow
ibein up, have ihe fentlterbonuB run In
tlio soanis tiud tbo book-u'nd-eye boties
down tho front; aud then thoy uro all
ready to fit jusl aa soon as I get there.
Thls Btives a world <>f time nnd trouble
iifter, Jt'st t0 koi a" my cuttlng and bon?
lng dono at once, nnd seems to uiuko tbo
work gu no uiucb qulcker.
"Aud when It cuuics tu littlng n stout
lady's aklrt, well, though 1 do say.lt my?
self, there's no tuliur ln this town can
du botter. You know tbo way lhat cbior
|y women so often Bland, tho hack liol
lowed ut the wtilst?they try to stund bo
Btralgbt thut they nlmost full over back
iya.ru?? and thc alidoincn protrudliig, Try
to mako tlie nvoritgo pnttern sklrt Ut
tb'Oill, aud It wlll Bilg ln foi'loijily- ln tbo
inlddlo of the frout und blicb up4u few
inches besides.
"Well, to overcome thls 1 cut tbo sklrt
Boine four or six Inches longer tbnii ls
ncccsBary, aud after It Is senmed to
gctber I try it ou. Plli|illl?'f n waistbund
llrmly on the walst, 1 unnv tho sklrt up
liihldu of this until It fitlls ln correct p'oi
sltloii. Then I turn up llie bottom, pln
ning It olosely nml curofully, bow on tbo
biiud und iei tbo Hkiit bang, well welght
ed, on tbe ligure-stnml over nlght. Then
It wlll Btretcb. all tbat lt ls going to, mul
next dny, uftor oue uioiv try-on, I liiilsh
tbe ln-iii, scw ou tbo biiiUlug, und it 1b
done.
"Tlio length llouiice?" sho querloB. "Oh.
yos, lluit 1 iilwnj-B ninko to como woll up
to tbo kueo, so tliitt when tbe sklrt ls
ml- , iifted tbcre ls no biut hut thnt the entlro
SCB
irlp
-iii- i
nd:
mlf*
ttlo
or
il.
sklrt Is of sllk. whllo llie inohiilr or otbor
under part, belng well stlti'oned, helps to
But out the dress sklrt qulte uftor inu np
provud Hare. Vou kuuw yourself (but
uiilcsB ono hnvo sulllc'.eut skirts under
neulli ovon the best cut dress wlll llop
urotuid the' uiilcles und lose nll of lts
Hinurt eachct with even tho llrst wear
ing."