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TAILORED COSTUMES IN SEP.GB, PONGEE AND UXEX.
Ii'Art <tfc la Mode.
In a Garden
r - i
Last week wall a linn week to plant
tho garden, that I?, If your buck lawn
is In tho least worthy of Ihn nanu-.
There was ii very Ingratiating crea?
ture rejoicing in the name of La/, u i
who seemed to |>0 digging In every
body's yard on th: square. Pleasantly
ond patiently he dug and planted in
your square fnoi of real estate for
some two hours, only to remember that
he had sworn solemn oaths yesterday
to be with Mr?. fio. and-So at Jusl
this time, you rushed Into the pantry
or the linen press or the side?
board, wherever I hp Ibiuor v. as, and
poured the old man a seasonable tonic;
Vo you knor.v th: perfidious olJ wretch
actually left your garden half dug and
went to weed Ho- beds ne.vt door under
your very eyes!
Such It is lo deal with a gardener.
Not only Is Whiskey his only thought
and tiie cherished ideal oi his dreams,
be knows nothing of ilowors. The hol?
lyhocks) that wer,- only yost-rliy th?
men flourshlnS bit of green in me
neighborhood have been spaded entire?
ly out of sight, nil of the weeds are
present with you ami your most ch ir- ;
Is bed slips strew the walk*.
"It is splendid horse-chesnut
tree," mourned the lady of th - garden,
"hut 1 don't think I need out Just here
by the rost-s."
And tho nonchalance of th - darkey,
who .would have you believe that It:
Is the very tm?t;o of a foreign shrub
Sn Monroe Park, and not n true at all!
Ills confidence In himself knows no
bounds. lie Is the people and wisdom
will die with him. and it Is simply be?
yond tho power of a human being to
reduce bis estimate of what h. can Hi.
At Ian the garden In llnlslied. The tig
bushes died this winter, so one has!
run vines of wall beside their iiiultll
ated trunks ami plant-<l yollow (lowers
?whelp you Intended to grO)W popples
The lilacs have gone and th'3 hyacinths
?lever bloomed at all, but there is a
nourishing crop of morning glory vinos,
ond down In one corner, all by them
? elves, are coming up some spicy little
pinks. I am sure It will De a nice gar?
Theve days some people I know yie
quite busy digging In the fertile plains
of thought and soul, and strange to
SAy there are a great many thought-'
there. tr,o, that hav.. never come UP
at all. Perhaps, you are digging too
much; perhaps you forgot to plant the
popple si od of dreams and the worth?
less morning glories are already there,
only waiting for space to push In.
f-'ome people have o -me upon dead sor?
rows and old despairs with moid upon
their shrouds and there la no light
In somebody else's aoul ar.> light laughs
and priceless loves with soft kisses on
the dear, wurm mouth of a soul their
own: In a small corner, coming up all
by itself Is love of people, belief in
people und the- half-ilnlshed song of
happiness- Gardens and souls are they
ho very different after all?
Among the royal princes or.' Rurop-.
Prince Alexander of Took, Is one of
the cleverest, and perhaps the moat
original, llif'ts tho youngest brother
of CJueon Mary, and married Princess
Alice of Albany When they were both
oulte yo :ng. It wne purely a lovj
match, ond the prince is ably second?
ed tc. h'.s charming wifo In carrying
[out his novel id^as.
At the recent Ideal horse exhibi?
tion in I ?ond on tho p.-lnc.- organised
;i dinner t.Vblo convpetlrlon and In
vlt?d nil tho noted host;sse? to de
corata tables after their own Ideas.
The great ono responded with alac?
rity, and a wonderful exhibition of
i?>rig!nal "spreads" was the result, each
table expressing the Individual taste
-of a well-known hostess. The flowers
jnlonc and the methods of arranging
[vthem were a featurs of the exhibi?
Prlnees? Alexander of Teok invented
Ja very dainty scheme, in which a won?
derful service of obi Dresden China
played an important purl. The Du?
chess of Northumberland used old cut'
glass, and * celadon dessert service.
? The Duchess of Rutland had a bright
Her table represented n hunting F?n?,
In which were figures of huntsmen,
liorscs, and hounds in full cry across
country. A Japanese garden was
the Countess uf Darnloy's notion,
it was carried out correctly to the
smallest detail, with strenms. rooks,
lakes, a tiny temple, and many dwarf
1 plants. The Hon. Frances Garnet,
daughter of Field Marshal Lord
Wolseley, showed six feet of an
Italian terrace garden. I?ady Arthur
Hill condned herself to rare old Leeds
ware, her flowers being light and dark
blue Spanish Iris.
The best table of all .was that of
Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild, simpler
by far than other, hut certainly more
?ilstinKtilshed and dignified. Every?
thing? napery, glass, china. silver, and
appointments?waj absolutely plain,
with no decorations whatever. the
flowers fov and arranged low so as
not to Interrupt the conversation
across the table. The effect was sim?
ilar to that of the-American Ambas?
sador at. court In plain evening dress,
t-ays a spectator, as contrasted with
the gorgeous uniforms with stars,
medals, and crosses of diplomatists
from other lands. He i? always the
most dlsftlngulshd looking person there
Just on account of his simplicity. So
Jt Is With Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild's
A Court Poet.
Tho Institution of court poet is a
very old one. It. can bo traced hack
to Greece, from which the custom was
adopted by Home, The title "poet
laureate." so far as cm be learned,
xvns devised by Frederick 1., of Ger?
many, who bestowed it. with a wreath
of bay leaves, upon the monk Gunther,
From the time of retrarch, who was
rrc?wned at Home, the title because
for somo centuries an honorary de
greo which tho universities of the Con?
tinent and of England were authorised
to confer. We may suppose thnt the
favor was sometimes unworthily grnnt
ic^, for iSancho Panza, in consoling
his ass. when both ass and rider had
fallen into a dlttoh, exo1alm?d:
"I proniiso to give thee a. double
feed and to place a crown of laurel
on thy head, that thou mayest'lonk
like a peat laureate."
It Is only though tradition that
there may !bc assigned un origin to
this.office In England. In the deed that
eonferreel upon Chaucer and his suc?
cessor in the post an annuity and the
yearly allowance of a tierce (401 gal?
lons') of sweet Malvolsle wine the king
I named the father of Kngllsii litera
ltttr,-i as "My valet, Geoffrey Chaucer."
?The monarch made na illusiun to his
ARTISTIC MOLDS FOR FOOD
Half the pleasure of eating: ts through ,
the eye. If food Is well a< rved nnd '
cooked, a meal In a success, though the |
quantity and variety of the food may
Molds piny a large part In this dainty
service. Everything, from llsli to des- |
sert, can be molded Even th" soup ?
might be. If It happens to he Jellied i
consomme, and hfiw shapes are con-1
stantly brought out.
The ordinary mold Is of heavy tin,
but the woman who objects 10 using1
tin. especially for aeids. can buy earth- j
enware or aluminum. These last two
cost more, and in them, there are fewer |
Various slr.es can be had, from a j
quart to many quarts. The very large .
ones are made to order. Individual J
molds are also popular, though the
large ring or form shapes are more
convenient and more fashionable for
Probably the favorlt- mold for most 1
purposes In a hollow ring, round or
oval. The round ones are better liked,
but either shape Is good. These come
With a lid for desserts that must be
frozen, and without one. for aspices,
mousses, bliine manges and vegetables.
With one of these ring molds the
clever hostess cay oven glorify hash
or vegetable left-overs. Macaroni made
Into a tlmhale anil put in a ring with
the eentro filled with creamed chick?
en, lamb or fish, makes an appetizing
Mashed potatoes may ? be quickly
formed Into n hollow ring with one of
these molds, the. centre being fllird with
lanib chops, creamed sweetbreads or
For Malnri* and Desner-t*.
KV>r salads and desserts the ring
mold Is Invaluable. Kor the former an
aspic. Is usually made, plain or vege?
table, and the centre is filled with any
desired mixture In fruit salad, or with
msi&i si jink &i*&Kj&juts&
nalsed celery or shredded lettuce with
a pour cream dressing*.
An attractive salad Is made by using
two sizes of oval or round molds that
fit Into each other. In tho outer and
larger one Is put a white chicken aspic,
and In the Inner ona a tomato aspic.
The centre is tilled with cubes of grope
fruit, apple and maraschino cherries
dotted thickly over tho top nnd well
mixed with mayonnaise.
A separate dish of mayonnaise should
be passed with most molded salads, as
It Is not easy to get enough dressing!
without destroying the nppearnn.ee of
Another appetizing effect Is had by,
using.a round ring mold and filling the
centre with a fancy mold that fits
closely and is much higher. Thus a
cucumber aside in the ring can have
halibut or salmon salad arranged in
the fancy form that fits closely in the
ring when turned out. If halibut is
used, mixed with shredded grc< n pep?
pers and olives for color, or the sweet
red peppers finely chopped.
This arrangement is equally attrac?
tive for dessert, this ring being of |co
cream and tho centra of win..- J-dly.
A simpler dessert might have the outer
ring of chocolate blanc. mange, with
nuts mlxr-d through It, tho fancy feral
being filled With whipped cream. This
may be. slightly stiffened with gelatine
if It will not hold its shape.
Nothing Is prettier than a round or
oval r'ngjmold of 3*'rcnch vanillin lee
cream heaped high with fru't in season.
Strawberries, ruspberrles, peaches, or?
anges and bananas. Home-made les
cream served In this way has all the.
air of a novelty dessert. For further
adornment whipped civam may ho pat
Ion the top of fruit through a tube t*
fSatto laucy. Xormsj,
? If you arc to pnpcr a country hou??
consider the papers that look like old
chintzes. Never havo these licen love?
lier, and. if correctly treated, they
rarely fail to please.
Do noi use an overlarge design un
less the ceilings are extra high and
the rooni spacious; otherwise there Is
a .smothered sensation that Is not rest
fill. Oddly, though, an extra lari;^
room does not look well with a chintz
wall covering; there 's too much of
H- A better treatment In this caso
would be a frlera of the chintz com-I
hlned with a white striped paper or
with one |n a delicate tint of tho dorn.
Inant tone of the border.
With the retina I" early Victorian
fashions comes a r< vlval of the pan?
eled room. It Is la favor, especially
for country houses. Expensive papers
have specially decorated panels, but
good effects can ho ebtnlned by paper?
ing with a plain, trlped or diapered
paper and arranging flowered border:!
?f any desired width in regular pan?
els, according to shape of room.
Another interesting wall treatment
Is copying old Japanese designs from
screens and panels.
For summer hon.es coolness must
bo sought. In bedrooms this Is best
obtained by selecting white or dream
papers In satin sir.pea or figures In
the same tone, using with It a gay
Never have these borders been more
artistic .or so varied In width. Some
are little more than bindings In color,
others two or three inches In bowk not
' or floral designs; still others ten
' Inches deep, with gay paroquets with
1 spreading1- tails.
Attractive Is the border of festooned
' sweet peas In shades of roso color or
violet, while vert cool is a garland of
green leaves caught at intervals with
light little bunches Of violets, roses
The fill-nut border Is in greater fa?
j vor than the o#e with a Straight edge.
Expense can be l<?aed ir this cutting
is done befuro the papqrhansor ai
About Gowns and Bonnets
and Other Things
Tho power? tha-t rule In Fashlonland
have lately considered the middlcagr-d
ThlB season the younger generation
will take a lesson from their elder
fr'ends In the art cf looking graceful
In draped frockj", .lacket bodices, man?
tles nnd other styles which they have
never seen bofore.
Nothing la mnro lovely than a wo?
men whose hair Is tinged with gray
or "erortvncd with snow" If shs Is be?
This season's fashions nre made for
her also. "A woman Is as old as she
looks" was never so great a truth as
it Is to-day.
Tim sombre tones of color, so rich
and "different," captlvats every one.
young and old. Pnrk rich wine colors,
dull brown, mauves, laupo, doll blues?
all are appropriate for Ihn Ohler matron.
[ledfern .-hows n. stunning mode] of
dark rose-colored taffeta. It appears
centuries old, borrowed from 3.-0me an?
The bodice Is rnther severely plain,
enlivened only hy on old English l-?eo
collar. Scalloped ruffles finish the
sleeves, falling well ovor tho hands.
The skirt Is slightly full and trim?
med with four scalloped RoUllCSS These
nro embroidered In all the tints of
roso silk. Beneath the locc collar n
bow of black velvet giv.vt the touch
of the artistic.
Wnnnler Skirt Is .Newest.
for once Parts dressmakers, it seems,
acknowledge their inability to decide
.lust what the correct outline of the
woman <>f to day shall be. A change
I? due. assuredly, but several attempts
to. turuut thj opDoaiij, extreme of wide.
sktrts, hoop-skirts, etc, have been un?
The woman of fashion persistently
clings to tho clinging skirt, so the
fashion makers have accomplished a
compromlsa. Tho clinging foundation
skirt Is retained, and tho change ot
oiitllno la offeotnd with panniers.
They aro a revival of a mode that
ran high in the period of Ixnils XV., but
the rannlors of those days recorded by
the paintings of Watteau, Boucher, and
Chardln are so modified and adapted
I to our own times that they may with
Justlca bo termed tho pannier of 101:.'.
Tho new panniers are 30 vailed In
! stylo and adjustment that one sees
instinctively that any type, or. In fact,
I any weight, of woman may wear them
I with Impunity.
There la one that resemble t closely
tho loto unlamcutod hobble, but throe
aro others draped low (town and close
over Hub) tight underskirts that kee'p
tho figure as slim and sVelt as a wil?
I Perhaps the most popular nianlfes?
I tatlou of the pannier Is that approved
; by Pan U in. It Is shaped so as to re?
veal long-point .d V. which makes the
. over drapery becomingly lengthen,
? rather than shorten, the figure,
Many of the nowes'. bats are fashion?
ed of petal straw, so called on account
of its fineness and suppleness, and are
bordered with a ribbon of straw or
pined completely with velvet. Togal, of
j course, keeps Itr. place In favor, and Is
Ioften lined with Jcddn or mantla straw
in a contrasting color.
Garden furniture of the modrtrn ?ort
looks well, Is not expensive and will
stand hard usage.
It Is called garden furniture or lawn
furnlturo or porch furniture. Just an
you please to designate It, for It 1?
equally adaptable to garden, la/tvn or
porch, or It can even b-s placed in?
doors if your house la a bungalow or
a summer cottago of somo other type.
Tho chief characteristic of this fur?
niture, its ability to stand up und.r
any punishment inflicted by tho wea?
ther, qualities it pre-eminently for ser?
vice out in the open. It is perfectly
good on the cottage porch, but not
as good there u-s rood, iwiclter, willow
or rattan, while there Is nothing bet
t t for use undor the trees or on the
open stretches of lawn. Neither (US|
nor rain nor wind can harm It, and It/
fits in any landscape.
This out of door furniture Is cither
portable on stationary. In the former
class tt\3ro are chairs and settees of
Innumerable designs, tables, flower
stands, llowor boxes, ?-oiioh.es, tabou
rc'.tes, Indian seats, lawn vases and
so on. Among tho stationary turnlsh
intrs arc large lawn scatB. with or
without canopies; swing stands and
the swings themselves, summer houses,
pergolas, fences, bridges, arbors and
gales. It may he stretching It a ttille
to call all these things furnlturo, but
that Is the custom In the trade, and
tho stationary pieces are found side
by .-Ulo with the portable in tho stores
and In the catalogues.
lllokory Is one of the old staple
(Wood8 of the genuine rustic furniture.
Youns- hickory saplings uro used for
the framework. If cut in the fall the
bark will always adhere to tho wood,
it Is declared. Kor the bat-ks and seats
of chairs, settees and swings, tho tough
Inner bark of the hickory Is cut Into
.long, thin .stripe, which are closely
woven in tho familiar over and tinder^
j pattern. This kind of seating 13 tough'
and durable, but clastic and comfor?
table. Thero 1? no attempt to tamper
with the natural beauty of the wood
or to polish up or Improve upon the
attractive surface of the bark.
Red cedar Is another wood much
used for rusti.- furniture. The rathor
soft, long shaggy bark Is left un?
touched, but much of it adheres to
tho wood so loosely that It must iwear
away alter a while. The cedar gen?
erally selected Is of tho variety with
a conspicuous red heart In the centre
of the stick, showing In tho furniture
where the ends are rounded off on
chair arms and backs.
"What Is said to be tho root of this
same red heart cedar tree Is used for
another stylo of the garden furniture,
but under the name or laurel wood.
It Is hard nnd gnarly, full of sharp'
curves and bulging knots and In gen- I
eral has a CAthor uncomfortable look
In tho chair backs. There Is on at?
tempt to uso It for seats; hard smooth
slats are used.
Another attractive native wood for
the out of door furniture Is birch In
any of Its common varieties. Pretty
effects are produced by using two or
mare varieties In tho same piece with
one kind for tho general framework
nnd anothr for tho upright slats of
a settee, for Instance.
Thore Is still one more style of
garden furnlturo not quite so rustlo
perhaps, but equally suitable ror tinny
country places, especially those laid
out on formal lines. It Is of cypress
sawed and planed down Into conven?
tional forms und painted. It has a
style all Its own, with little attempt
at ornamentation, but with graceful
outlines and well calculated propor?
None of the garden or lawn fur-'
nlturo Is upholstered, but cushions for
chairs, settees and swings can be made
with some of the many sunrast fabrics
now to bo had In a great variety o-C
I colojings and designs.
At one of the fashionable weddings
recently the eight br'desmalds worn
gowns of graduated shades of pink, i
producing a most artistic effect. Tho i
tlrst two In line were gowned in bright i
(??rise, with satin bandeaus around thej
hair, of the same brilliant color, finish-j
ed at tho back with tall upstanding
bows of white tulle. The next two
wore, gowns of a lighter tint of rose,
with the sam, graceful headdress, and j
so on down the line, each couple wear?
ing gowns and accessories of a paler
tint, until the color melted and was
I lost In the exquisite white gown nf
white chiffon radium worn by the ma?
tron and mahl of honor.
The gowns were In pannier style,
rallied with tulle and finished at tho
throat with fichus of shadow lace.
Pink sweet peas wera carried, begin?
ning with tho vivid rose and shading
down to the palest tint, until the last
couple carried great bunchfs of puro
Tho del! ale shading of color and
the a'ry headdresses gave the wedding
party the appearance or a mass of
gorgeous butterflies poised for flight.
Tha youthful bride, the daughter of
Senator PlotOhor, of Florida, wore a
gown of ivory satin and tulle, embroid?
ered In seed pearls In a design of llliav
of iho valley.
Vacations for Everybody,
In an article on vacations In tho"
May Woman's Homo Companion, tho
i author rays In part:
I "Horace tirecley said ho had been
twenty years trying to And time to go
a-fishtng, and a tow years later ha
died from overwork nnd anxiety. Many
[a fa liner Pvcs all his life within
sight of running streams, or within
sound of babbling brooks, and the
suggestion that he hang up his hou
and go a-flshlhg never reaches him.
Thore&u says, 'the better part of man
Ms soon plowed Into the soil as com?
post'; and I have known some such
lives. 1 knew a woman who put her
babies In n barrel and left them while
she worked -n the Held with her bus
. band, Together they paid off the
farm mortgag? and then bought
n.ore farms and paid off more mort?
gages. They never took vacations.
Neither <f them ever saw a train of
i ears until tho Iron rails were laid
through their -own lands, and when
I the llrst train passed through, the old
lady was heard to say. 'Well, I have
worked hard all my life, but now I
'shall have 't easy. 1 can Just sit and
j milk and see the ears go by.'
"Another fam'Iy of my acquaintance,
I'ylng or; a larc farm, with fifty cows)
i<i milk and i arc for. and 600 hens to
look after, ilnds time every year for
!an outing; rather, they hire extra help
on th< farm and take the time, and
j they do not take the time grudrlngly
either. They figure that what th?
I out-- costs is tho teJt investment ?<
I tho whole year."