Search America's historic newspaper pages from 1756-1963 or use the U.S. Newspaper Directory to find information about American newspapers published between 1690-present. Chronicling America is sponsored jointly by the National Endowment for the Humanities external link and the Library of Congress. Learn more
Image provided by: Library of Virginia; Richmond, VA
Newspaper Page Text
Let Your Wardrobe Tell the i Story of Your Love Affairs, Says Lady DufpGordon OMjitKUl in*. ?r auur Company. Qroat Britain Rights RMirrtl Gowns. LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that if newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. "Heart Secret" By Lady DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile") DO you find yourself lik ing cno color, or one shado of some color, more than any other? Do you find that, perhaps, uncon eclously you have a touch of this color In every coatume? That It has begun to really have a meaning to you? If this Is not true of yourself do you not find that It is triua of Borne of your friends? Are you not con scious thai among your women friends tinre are some with whom you always associate certain colors? And havo yoq noticed that some of your friends are apt to have their costumes all cut along the same gen eral llneB? You may have wondered at this Bo-called fad of these friends but re mained In Ignorance?why? Pretty Marie always has a bit of purplo somewhere in her ccstumo and, wby, the stately Sarah Is never without a touch of green. Of course there are many reasons that are perfectly patent to the most casual obnerver, the general becom Ingness of a color is the most obvious, but It Is with the more subtle reasons that I am Interested and it la of these reasons that I mean to write. It Is all very well te Bay that Marie wears purple because it la be coming to her and never wears red becauso It Is not. In those days of the ready-to-uso cosmetics and the applied hair d cBjgu any woman can wear any color, no matter what she was born. Therefore, we must seek a deeper reason than becomingness. I believe that in every woman's life there has been an episode that affects her whole being and that con eclously or subconsciously, it affects her dressing. I believe that every article of a woman's clothing has some meaning, that her choice of stockings and liugerio are controlled to a great extent by this episode. I havo a client who, for instance, ^111 never havo a bit of yellow anywhere In her costumes; the very eight of bright yellow sunshine affects her unhappily. One day she told me that yellow was associated with a great tragedy in her life, and that every time she saw it she recalled that great sadness. But there are other women who >kCT?1 ??f "? w h IT a . r*t y . Sea Green Span gle Tulle, Recall ing a Love That Is Past, but not For gotten. To Wear 'It Is to Feel Again Some Thrill of the Old Happiness. have capitalized such tragedies and have ever kept with them some me mento of them. There will be the faded bunch of flowers that is all that Is left of an early love affair, or a dance programme that brings back the night ?when He left forever. These were and still are, I must admit, very mld-Victorlan methods; to-day we are more modern and in a way we flaunt our heart histories on our persons, but by no means do we The Gown of Her Past. Reminiscent of Youth. Dove Gray Charmeuse, with Apple-Green Girdle. carry our hearts on our sleeves! It is because of this that Marie always has a bit of purple some where on her person. It is because of her modernity that Sarah invari ably has a hint of green in her cos tumes?and the virginal debutante who does not yet know the world has always gray or soft, wurm brown In her costumes. In the large picturo that I am send ing you I am showing an episode gown that carries a heart secret that only the initiated realize. This is a simple little frock in its way, but oh! tho tale that It could tell If It could speak. It is created In a soft shade of gray, the true debuntante gray?al though Its wearer Is long past that happy stage. But she wears it be cause it recalls an episode of her debutante days. The little grey lady I call her, but there are those who say that she would better wear scarlet. Notice, if you please, the extreme simplicity of the design; the sub drapery, however, gives it the tinge of sophistication that the wearer ac Costume of Rare Blue Crepe, Recalling the Hap pinesss of the Honeymoon to a Bride of a Year. quired when she went through her episode. In the picture of the very beauti ful evening gown, with its very new fishtail train, there is a memory that is very wonderful to tho woman who will wear it. This is an exquisitely spangled green tullo that looks very like the color of the sea just as tho wave turns but before it breaks. Sea foam tulle with sea green span gles should mean happiness to any woman, and it does to the one I have in mind. It recalls, no it epitomizes, an episode that is all loveliness, even though it is now but a memory. And I wonder why it is that some women make all memories unhappy while others make theirs all happiness. And now this brings me back to the sea-green dress. For this woman loved on a Summer evening and a Summer sea; no, she has not mar . ried the man, but she says that her memories of that love will be with her all her life long, and while sho does not carry them In every one of her gowns she has epitomized them in this delightful costume. And sho is never more happy than when she is wearing It. In the third picture I know you are wondering what kind of a mem orv that recalls. Well, prepare to bo disappointed, for that rocalls the hap piest kind of a honeymoon! Thla is the gown that I created for a bride of a year. She came to me and said that she was so happy that she must have a costume to express her hap piness. "My honeymoon was the most wonderful time of my life. If 1 should dlo to-morrow," she added. And I do feel fhat I have succeeded In this costume. The color is a rare, and wonderful blue, the blue that a baby's eyes are the day they are1 born?and this is a very radiant blue,' indeed. It is a silky crepe, marvel-' ously draped, and there Is much real lace on It; the bodice Is nearly all lace, and there Is the drop skirt to match. And the hat Is a picture hat of laoe (hat shades the face most be* wltchlngly. When It. was finished and the happy bride saw it she smiled an4 said, "Ah, beforo me I see the hap piness of iny life, I'see my heart secret shown, but no one else wilj know that I do." HOW TO BE AGREEABLE AGREEABLE manners lend at tractiveness to a man or wo man fully as much as physical beauty. Mme. Cavallerl gives valua ble Information to the readers of this newspaper on the care of their personal charms every other Sun day. On the intervening Sundays Mrs. Frank Learned discusses the equally Important subject of social charms. She is a member of New York fashionable society, widely known as a writer on etiquette and kindred social topics. By Mrs. Frank Learned. AN evidence of good training la to suppress undue emotion In public. Whether it Is an emotion of laughter, anger, disap pointment or mortification of any sort, one'B tone should he free from excitement. Self-command is n quality to be striven for, whether at homo or abroad. Even In tho midst of those who are strangers, It Is desirable to make a favorable rather than a disagreeable Impres sion. One Is obliged for one's own 6ake to maintain tho dignity which forbids doing anything that attracts observation, comment or criticism. An agreeable companion In travel ling makes tho most of the enjoy able experiences and the least of the unpleasant parts of the journey. Often there may be annoyances or discomforts, but one who has good sense and good humor does not complain but tries to keep a cheer ful temper and an amiable expres sion of countenance. An expe rienced traveller does not accuse or abuse officials, and Is not severe ly exacting. If an inquiry must be made It Is mode politely. If a train Is late, luggage missing, or hotel a e c o mmodations unsatisfactory, it is a test of man ners not to be in dignant and not to demand rights an grily. If employes do not carry out rules properly ono may call their at tention to this firmly but courte ously. Complaints against them n .. r,rrv should never be r" made from a spirit Fu.knii of revenge, but only when the rights of the travel ling public must be upheld. Noise or display -when travelling stamps a person at once as not con versant with good form. Consideration for others 1s obligatory. a well-bred person Is careful not to place bags or wraps on an adjacent seat in a train while ignoring the fact that someone is looking for a seat. If someone asks if a place Is reserved, one should remove things promptly and with a gracious air. One should not throw a wrap or coat over the back of a Beat In front when It is obvious that It Is an Inconvenience to others, nor should ono open a window and let in a draught if others are made to suffer by it. Although It is a fault to be offi cious or intrusive about offering In formation to one's fellow travellers, it is equally a mistake to have a haughty, cold reserve when on? AND WELL-BRED WHEN TR AVF11 inc. sees that information is needed. It is kind to give it readily and not to be indifferent to tho -wants of others. v Sensible women and those who are sure of themselves know that refinement and culture go hand in hand with simplicity in dress and demeanor. Costliness and elabora tion in dress and the wearing of jewels when travelling are avoided by everyone with good taste and a sense of tho fitness of things. "While it is true that lighter colors are worn now than formerly and thinner materials are chosen for warm days, it Js equally true that nothing that is conspicuous Is ever correct, and that perishable ma terials or those that soil quickly are undesirable. A gown that might be suitable for a shott trip in a drawing-room car is not appro priate for a long journey in an or dinary car. ' To dress correctly for travelling Is to wear what is simple, service able and neat. A tailored suit of serge or other light-weight woollen material Is indispensable, the color being gray, dark bluo, brown or black. In warm weather dresses of pongee, voile, mohair or linen are used. A good supply of washable waists should be included in one's outfit, the simplest styles, high in the neck, being suitable. When travelling rapidly from place to place it is advisable to have few dresses. Plenty of gloves, fresh neckwear and a good supply of un dergarments are necessary. When remaining but a few days in a place one's clothing may bo washed promptly at a hotel laundry. Absolute freshness of attire is f GPSC* necessarily the rule for a well-bred woman. Shabblness la unpardon able. Anyone who thinks that anything will do" for travelling is mistaken. Aside from the chances of mooting friends or acquaintances and wishing to make a good ap pearance, one's own self-respect demands that one should bo care fully dressed at all times, A hat plainly trimmed, -without feathers or flowers, is In good taste. A more drossy hat may be provided for occasional use. Gloves of gray suede or tan dogskin aro useful, or silk glovos may bo worn In very warm weather. An important rule is that gloves should remain on tho hands. Nothing Is more unattrac tive, ns well as showing a noglect of good form, than ungloved hands in tho street or -when travelling. Gloves which aro Inexpensive may be worn, but gloves must always be worn for the purpose of neatness. Shoes should be black Oxford ties, or tan in Summer. Women who are correct In taste prefer not t? wear pumps or fancy shoes of any sort In the street cr for travelling, nor do they wear transparent stock ings. Plain lisle thread stockings of black or tan to match the Oxford ties are best. A man wears for travelling a sack suit or cuta way suit of tweed, Don't Inquire of Stranger*. By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED Author of "The Etiquette of New York To-day.'* cheviot or flannel; a derby or straw hat or a soft felt. At hotels In the evening in Sum mer women wear dresses of fou lard or other light materials, or pretty -waists of chiffon or lace with separate skirts. In regard to luggage much de pends on what Is to be the length of one's Journey or absence from home. For a short trip a small quantity of iuggago is best. Clood form forbids that a woman should ever carry a suit case by hand. It should be checked and thus rele gated to the car for baggage. A small travelling bag and an um brella may bo carried. It Is incor rect to carry boxes, packages or baskets. A convenience is to purchase one's ticket in advance and to. check one's trunk through from residence to destination. A small extra ex press charge relieves- 0110 thus of trouble; otherwise it is necessary to attend to tho checking at the station. Women and girls travel alono more than they used to do. If the.y are quiet and dignllled they will al ways be treated with respect. It i.s of tho utmost importance for them to remember the rule to ask for any required Information either at an information bureau, a ticket office, or from officials at railway stations or on trains or boats. Thoy should avoid making inquiries of strangers and should bo pru'int In entering into conversation -v. .tU them. If a civility is offered by a stranger a woman expresses her thanks and that ends tho incident. Under no circumstances should one take a present of fruit or bon bona, or anything of the sort from a stranger. It is better to leave an impression of having been formal rather than familiar. Young girls should not travel alono on very long journeys. If obliged to go alone they should be met by friends on arriving. Women travelling alono are careful to plan to arrive before evening. Young girls do not stop at hotels alone, but are accompanied by an older woman whoso presenco protects them from criticism. By Force of Habit. Sandy had coma to London for tho holidays, and, being solely on ple&a* uru bent, resolved tor once in bis llfo to do himself really well. Accordingly, on tho day following his arrival, ho entered tho grill-room or a tlrst-class restaurant and or dered a lamb chop for lunch. After a long delay, the waiter re turned, deposited a chop of micro scopical proportions on tho table, and then retired. "1 say," bellowed the lusty boo of Scotland alter his retreating form, "waiter I" "Yes, sir," replied the imperturabl? one. "Where's my chop?" Tho wnitor said nothing; merely looked at tho Scotsman's plate. So Sandy followed his gaze. Then: "Sorry!" ho remarked. "You'r* quite right. At tlrst 1 thought It was a ciaek lr. the dish!" Frshion Notes, The latest thing in pajamas fa ty# man who >;et.s up last. Pajamas are worn mostly between li p. m. and 9 a. m.. and the noclt and ankles. Th<^ prlnccsa stylo of pajnmji. with theath skirt effects. Is called the nlghlBhirt.