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Let Your Wardrobe Tell the i
Story of Your Love Affairs,
Says Lady DufpGordon
OMjitKUl in*. ?r auur Company. Qroat Britain Rights RMirrtl
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile"
of London, and foremost creator of fashions
in the world, writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that if newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings
her into close touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at
Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York.
By Lady DUFF-GORDON
DO you find yourself lik
ing cno color, or one
shado of some color,
more than any other? Do
you find that, perhaps, uncon
eclously you have a touch of
this color In every coatume?
That It has begun to really
have a meaning to you?
If this Is not true of yourself do
you not find that It is triua of Borne
of your friends? Are you not con
scious thai among your women
friends tinre are some with whom
you always associate certain colors?
And havo yoq noticed that some
of your friends are apt to have their
costumes all cut along the same gen
You may have wondered at this
Bo-called fad of these friends but re
mained In Ignorance?why? Pretty
Marie always has a bit of purplo
somewhere in her ccstumo and, wby,
the stately Sarah Is never without a
touch of green.
Of course there are many reasons
that are perfectly patent to the most
casual obnerver, the general becom
Ingness of a color is the most obvious,
but It Is with the more subtle reasons
that I am Interested and it la of
these reasons that I mean to write.
It Is all very well te Bay that
Marie wears purple because it la be
coming to her and never wears red
becauso It Is not. In those days of
the ready-to-uso cosmetics and the
applied hair d cBjgu any woman can
wear any color, no matter what she
was born. Therefore, we must seek
a deeper reason than becomingness.
I believe that in every woman's
life there has been an episode that
affects her whole being and that con
eclously or subconsciously, it affects
her dressing. I believe that every
article of a woman's clothing has
some meaning, that her choice of
stockings and liugerio are controlled
to a great extent by this episode. I
havo a client who, for instance, ^111
never havo a bit of yellow anywhere
In her costumes; the very eight of
bright yellow sunshine affects her
unhappily. One day she told me
that yellow was associated with a
great tragedy in her life, and that
every time she saw it she recalled
that great sadness.
But there are other women who
>kCT?1 ??f "?
w h IT a . r*t y .
Sea Green Span
gle Tulle, Recall
ing a Love That Is
Past, but not For
gotten. To Wear
'It Is to Feel Again
Some Thrill of the
have capitalized such tragedies and
have ever kept with them some me
mento of them. There will be the
faded bunch of flowers that is all
that Is left of an early love affair, or
a dance programme that brings back
the night ?when He left forever.
These were and still are, I must
admit, very mld-Victorlan methods;
to-day we are more modern and in a
way we flaunt our heart histories on
our persons, but by no means do we
The Gown of Her Past. Reminiscent of Youth. Dove Gray
Charmeuse, with Apple-Green Girdle.
carry our hearts on our sleeves!
It is because of this that Marie
always has a bit of purple some
where on her person. It is because
of her modernity that Sarah invari
ably has a hint of green in her cos
tumes?and the virginal debutante
who does not yet know the world
has always gray or soft, wurm brown
In her costumes.
In the large picturo that I am send
ing you I am showing an episode
gown that carries a heart secret that
only the initiated realize. This is a
simple little frock in its way, but oh!
tho tale that It could tell If It could
It is created In a soft shade of
gray, the true debuntante gray?al
though Its wearer Is long past that
happy stage. But she wears it be
cause it recalls an episode of her
debutante days. The little grey
lady I call her, but there are those
who say that she would better wear
Notice, if you please, the extreme
simplicity of the design; the sub
drapery, however, gives it the tinge
of sophistication that the wearer ac
Costume of Rare Blue Crepe, Recalling the Hap
pinesss of the Honeymoon to a Bride of a Year.
quired when she went through her
In the picture of the very beauti
ful evening gown, with its very new
fishtail train, there is a memory that
is very wonderful to tho woman who
will wear it. This is an exquisitely
spangled green tullo that looks very
like the color of the sea just as tho
wave turns but before it breaks.
Sea foam tulle with sea green span
gles should mean happiness to any
woman, and it does to the one I have
in mind. It recalls, no it epitomizes,
an episode that is all loveliness, even
though it is now but a memory. And
I wonder why it is that some women
make all memories unhappy while
others make theirs all happiness.
And now this brings me back to
the sea-green dress. For this woman
loved on a Summer evening and a
Summer sea; no, she has not mar
. ried the man, but she says that her
memories of that love will be with
her all her life long, and while sho
does not carry them In every one of
her gowns she has epitomized them
in this delightful costume. And sho
is never more happy than when she
is wearing It.
In the third picture I know you
are wondering what kind of a mem
orv that recalls. Well, prepare to bo
disappointed, for that rocalls the hap
piest kind of a honeymoon! Thla
is the gown that I created for a bride
of a year. She came to me and said
that she was so happy that she must
have a costume to express her hap
piness. "My honeymoon was the
most wonderful time of my life. If
1 should dlo to-morrow," she added.
And I do feel fhat I have succeeded
In this costume. The color is a rare,
and wonderful blue, the blue that a
baby's eyes are the day they are1
born?and this is a very radiant blue,'
indeed. It is a silky crepe, marvel-'
ously draped, and there Is much real
lace on It; the bodice Is nearly all
lace, and there Is the drop skirt to
And the hat Is a picture hat of
laoe (hat shades the face most be*
When It. was finished and the
happy bride saw it she smiled an4
said, "Ah, beforo me I see the hap
piness of iny life, I'see my heart
secret shown, but no one else wilj
know that I do."
HOW TO BE AGREEABLE
AGREEABLE manners lend at
tractiveness to a man or wo
man fully as much as physical
beauty. Mme. Cavallerl gives valua
ble Information to the readers of
this newspaper on the care of their
personal charms every other Sun
day. On the intervening Sundays
Mrs. Frank Learned discusses the
equally Important subject of social
charms. She is a member of New
York fashionable society, widely
known as a writer on etiquette and
kindred social topics.
By Mrs. Frank Learned.
AN evidence of good training la
to suppress undue emotion
In public. Whether it Is an
emotion of laughter, anger, disap
pointment or mortification of any
sort, one'B tone should he free
from excitement. Self-command is
n quality to be striven for, whether
at homo or abroad. Even In tho
midst of those who are strangers,
It Is desirable to make a favorable
rather than a disagreeable Impres
sion. One Is obliged for one's own
6ake to maintain tho dignity which
forbids doing anything that attracts
observation, comment or criticism.
An agreeable companion In travel
ling makes tho most of the enjoy
able experiences and the least of
the unpleasant parts of the journey.
Often there may be annoyances or
discomforts, but one who has good
sense and good humor does not
complain but tries to keep a cheer
ful temper and an amiable expres
sion of countenance. An expe
rienced traveller does not accuse
or abuse officials, and Is not severe
ly exacting. If an inquiry must be
made It Is mode
politely. If a train
Is late, luggage
missing, or hotel
a e c o mmodations
is a test of man
ners not to be in
dignant and not to
demand rights an
grily. If employes
do not carry out
rules properly ono
may call their at
tention to this
firmly but courte
against them n .. r,rrv
should never be r"
made from a spirit Fu.knii
of revenge, but
only when the rights of the travel
ling public must be upheld.
Noise or display -when travelling
stamps a person at once as not con
versant with good form.
Consideration for others 1s
obligatory. a well-bred person Is
careful not to place bags or wraps
on an adjacent seat in a train while
ignoring the fact that someone is
looking for a seat. If someone asks
if a place Is reserved, one should
remove things promptly and with a
gracious air. One should not throw
a wrap or coat over the back of a
Beat In front when It is obvious that
It Is an Inconvenience to others, nor
should ono open a window and let
in a draught if others are made to
suffer by it.
Although It is a fault to be offi
cious or intrusive about offering In
formation to one's fellow travellers,
it is equally a mistake to have a
haughty, cold reserve when on?
AND WELL-BRED WHEN TR AVF11 inc.
sees that information is needed. It
is kind to give it readily and not to
be indifferent to tho -wants of
Sensible women and those who
are sure of themselves know that
refinement and culture go hand in
hand with simplicity in dress and
demeanor. Costliness and elabora
tion in dress and the wearing of
jewels when travelling are avoided
by everyone with good taste and a
sense of tho fitness of things.
"While it is true that lighter colors
are worn now than formerly and
thinner materials are chosen for
warm days, it Js equally true that
nothing that is conspicuous Is ever
correct, and that perishable ma
terials or those that soil quickly
are undesirable. A gown that
might be suitable for a shott trip
in a drawing-room car is not appro
priate for a long journey in an or
dinary car. '
To dress correctly for travelling
Is to wear what is simple, service
able and neat. A tailored suit of
serge or other light-weight woollen
material Is indispensable, the color
being gray, dark bluo, brown or
black. In warm weather dresses of
pongee, voile, mohair or linen are
used. A good supply of washable
waists should be included in one's
outfit, the simplest styles, high in
the neck, being suitable. When
travelling rapidly from place to
place it is advisable to have few
dresses. Plenty of gloves, fresh
neckwear and a good supply of un
dergarments are necessary. When
remaining but a few days in a
place one's clothing may bo washed
promptly at a hotel laundry.
Absolute freshness of attire is
necessarily the rule for a well-bred
woman. Shabblness la unpardon
able. Anyone who thinks that
anything will do" for travelling is
mistaken. Aside from the chances
of mooting friends or acquaintances
and wishing to make a good ap
pearance, one's own self-respect
demands that one should bo care
fully dressed at all times,
A hat plainly trimmed, -without
feathers or flowers, is In good taste.
A more drossy hat may be provided
for occasional use. Gloves of gray
suede or tan dogskin aro useful, or
silk glovos may bo worn In very
warm weather. An important rule
is that gloves should remain on tho
hands. Nothing Is more unattrac
tive, ns well as showing a noglect
of good form, than ungloved hands
in tho street or -when travelling.
Gloves which aro Inexpensive may
be worn, but gloves must always be
worn for the purpose of neatness.
Shoes should be
black Oxford ties,
or tan in Summer.
Women who are
correct In taste
prefer not t? wear
pumps or fancy
shoes of any sort
In the street cr
for travelling, nor
do they wear
ings. Plain lisle
of black or tan to
match the Oxford
ties are best.
A man wears
for travelling a
sack suit or cuta
way suit of tweed,
By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED
Author of "The Etiquette of New York To-day.'*
cheviot or flannel; a derby or straw
hat or a soft felt.
At hotels In the evening in Sum
mer women wear dresses of fou
lard or other light materials, or
pretty -waists of chiffon or lace with
In regard to luggage much de
pends on what Is to be the length
of one's Journey or absence from
home. For a short trip a small
quantity of iuggago is best. Clood
form forbids that a woman should
ever carry a suit case by hand. It
should be checked and thus rele
gated to the car for baggage. A
small travelling bag and an um
brella may bo carried. It Is incor
rect to carry boxes, packages or
A convenience is to purchase one's
ticket in advance and to. check
one's trunk through from residence
to destination. A small extra ex
press charge relieves- 0110 thus of
trouble; otherwise it is necessary
to attend to tho checking at the
Women and girls travel alono
more than they used to do. If the.y
are quiet and dignllled they will al
ways be treated with respect. It i.s
of tho utmost importance for them
to remember the rule to ask for any
required Information either at an
information bureau, a ticket office,
or from officials at railway stations
or on trains or boats. Thoy should
avoid making inquiries of strangers
and should bo pru'int In entering
into conversation -v. .tU them. If a
civility is offered by a stranger a
woman expresses her thanks and
that ends tho incident.
Under no circumstances should
one take a present of fruit or bon
bona, or anything of the sort from
a stranger. It is better to leave an
impression of having been formal
rather than familiar.
Young girls should not travel
alono on very long journeys. If
obliged to go alone they should be
met by friends on arriving. Women
travelling alono are careful to plan
to arrive before evening. Young
girls do not stop at hotels alone,
but are accompanied by an older
woman whoso presenco protects
them from criticism.
By Force of Habit.
Sandy had coma to London for tho
holidays, and, being solely on ple&a*
uru bent, resolved tor once in bis
llfo to do himself really well.
Accordingly, on tho day following
his arrival, ho entered tho grill-room
or a tlrst-class restaurant and or
dered a lamb chop for lunch.
After a long delay, the waiter re
turned, deposited a chop of micro
scopical proportions on tho table, and
"1 say," bellowed the lusty boo of
Scotland alter his retreating form,
"Yes, sir," replied the imperturabl?
"Where's my chop?"
Tho wnitor said nothing; merely
looked at tho Scotsman's plate. So
Sandy followed his gaze. Then:
"Sorry!" ho remarked. "You'r*
quite right. At tlrst 1 thought It was
a ciaek lr. the dish!"
The latest thing in pajamas fa ty#
man who >;et.s up last.
Pajamas are worn mostly between
li p. m. and 9 a. m.. and the noclt
Th<^ prlnccsa stylo of pajnmji. with
theath skirt effects. Is called the