Newspaper Page Text
Nkw York, March 30. 1803.
— EUAUDING the
new sll ff°e ne d
•kirtf), the pioneer
wearers report an
( odd feel in | of
roominess in them.
No one haa yet ob
jected to them as
unclean. Yet every
one raged about
our late lovely,
gowns, which we
could hold np to
safely, high above
tbe soil, nnd above
onr pretty skirt.
But who dares try
to hold np these
skirts I If you do
j you feel as If you
■ ware trying all by
yourself to spread
me main sneer, oi a yacht ln a high
wind. Yon can't do it with one hand.
With one hand you can gather only a
little of tbe fullness into subjection.
Yon mast grasp the skirl at each side,
gather into eadh hand half the skirt and
then lift straight up. You needn't
think you oan do it the first trial. Be
sides, bow about bundles, parasols,
handkerchiefs, gloves and soon? How
about stepping up the high steps of a
street car, with never a hand loft to
cling to the rail? You can't do it, and
yet your dressmakor is making all your
new gowns that way !
The initial picture shows a
jacket of tan colored, cross
barred diagonal which is especial
ly suitable for young ladies. It is
double-breasted, with the left side
For wearer of ample proportions.
buttoning over, and has Bmall revera
that show the plaid lining. A belt is
sewed Into the side form seam in the
back and buttons over to the other Bide,
routining the extra fullness in the cen
ter of the back. The sleeve is very full
and haß a long gauntlet cuff. There are
two pockets in the right side and one in
the left. The coat is finished with ma
chine stitching and has large mother-of
Tbe second picture shows a dress that
is well suited to a stout figure. It is of
black silk with light gray stripes and
cornflowers. Mack ribbon velvet trims
the bottom of thu skirt and forms the
waistband. Ho little attention is
usually paid by fashion writers
to the needs of stout women,
that 1 give directions which will
enable almost anyone to make tbe cos
tume. The skirt is gored and is edged
with two rows of velvet. The bodice
has a short basque and it is worn under
tbe skirt. A little plastron is made both
at the front, and back, ending on the
latter about tive Indies from the waist,
while in front it descends to the ribbon
bow. The plastron starts from tho edge
of the ehouldor touching the collar, and
it is advisable to draw it with a poncil
on the lining before cuttingthe matoriat.
The back, side, and uuder-arms pieces
are first sewn to tlie lining, p&esped,
boned and well stretched. The plastron
is cut on the straight and pinned on the
part marked out fer it, the middle beim*
placed on the center seam and taokeri
For ffrcet wear.
in position there. A piece of material
on tbe cross is next taken, and two
pleata made following tbe outline of tbe
plastron on the left, the material being
drawn slightly over to the right side at
the waist; the pleata are formed in
tbe same way on the opposite side
and crocs the others at tbe point
of tbe plaetron. The stripes of the
drees must be disposed in the way indi
cated in the engraving, as thus they
tend to decrease tbe apparent size of the
waist. Care should bs taken to place
thorn quit* symmetrically on each aide,
as the slightest deviation has • very
ugly appearance. Tbe two pleats should
be very deep, so that they do not pall
apart. The remainder ol the material
is well stretched, and any superfluous
fullness taken into the pleats. If the
dress is for a stout person it is best to
cover !ho hack and side pieces only with
the full material, making those nnder
the arm plain. In front the dress is
fastened with hooks and loop*. The
fronts are covered with silk cut on the
orofs, with two deep pleau arratHied to
follow the contour of the plastron, and
so placed that they meet the back pleats
at the shoulder. Those on the left side
terminate at the end of the plastron, and
tha silk is sewn down the edges of the
fastening, first being well stretched over
the darts. The pleats on the right side
also start at the shoulder, but, instead
of ending at tbe plastron, tbey are
carried down to the waist, terminating
nearly at tho seam which joins the
front and under-arm pieces. The ribbon
which forms the V has its point of de
parture at tbe same seam on the right
side, and is fastened at the point of the
plastron witb a rosette, rsdescendlng to
the same seam on the left aide, where it
fastens with a book and eye. Tbe top
of the skirt is edged with a ribbon like
that employed for the V, and it is ad
visable to fasten it under the arm, where
the fastening always shows the least.
The sleeve is best cut with two seams,
as it is almost impossible to cut a sleeve
in silk with only one seam, as it ia too
narrow, except for a person with a very
tbin arm. The dross is finished with a
A very pretty costume of plaid, trim
med witb black velvet, is to be seen in
urn nr - 1 , ~. sails .if," lu>.
nees in front, and the back is laid in
deep pleats. It is lined with silk and
the bottom is finished by a wide band
of velvet, scalloped at the top. Tho
waist has a yoke of velvet, and bias plaid
is laid in a few pleats in front. It
(aßtens on the left shoulder, then around
the arm-hole and along the side seam.
The belt is a folded piece of bias black
velvet, and fastens in front witli velvet
hows having long ends. Tbe sleeve 1b
full at the top and tight at the wrist.
With the costume is worn a pretty hat
of black velvet, turned up in the back
Vrum grantlmathrr'.t ClOtti.
and bent a little in front. It ia trimmed
with a peasant bow of ribbon, ostrich
tips and an aigrette.
The Master hats and bonnets shown
suggest the necessity for a setting of
tlutfv hair. Many a woman would long
ago have parted her hair, except that
directly the put the ordinary hat or
bonnet on, she looked like a fright for
Uck of the needed HutVy relief to the
edge of the headgear. Tbe spring hats
are tiny bits of lace and ribbon, with a
perk of feather here and a flip of ribbon
there. How ie such a hat to look worn
on a sleekly smooth head? I fancy the
explanation ie that we are not all going
to wear onr hair smooth. Certain it is
that the hat that calls for flnrTed hair is
the one that looks prettiest in the hand,
and that is the one a woman is going to
purchase and wear.
I saw a beautiful dinner dress of black
faille and my Bketch bliowb the pretty
bodice. The deep collar was made of
jetted net, finished with jet fringe, and
waß pointed on the arms and at tbe
back. The collar shape was attained by
means of shoulder seams, which also al
lowed of the pointed epaulettes. The
full puffed Bleevesof faille were gathered
into a tutf of pleated net. Where tbe
sleeve and cuff joined there was a
straight rultie of lace edged witb jet
fringe, the rullle being left open at the
inner seam. The belt wae of folded
Nile green surah and waß finished on
one side with a rosette.
For young girls the organdies, striped
batistes,chaliies and all tbe pretty light
weight foods make up charmingly. The
baby waists of some time ago are again
seen, the skirtß being quite plain,
straight and maidenly. The waist is
, bound by a sash that ties in the !.„.• ..
i The baby waist of a season or so ago was
i made with a yoke. That of this season
is left to show the bare neck and arms,
i Yet of this style in my last
i picture* ia not a party gown unless *ilk
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, APRIL 2. 1893.
malls end si'k gauzes ate used. Carried
out in wash goods and challie* the dress
is a garden and morning dress for the
country. Tbe effect is maidenly and
pretty. The slender arms, the smooth,
girltab neck and the simplicity of tbe
draping make one think ol wild roses
sml buttercups, whether there are any
aboat or not. Slips of silk or of fine
sateen are made for use with these
gowns. Now and then a little gown
comas ont of grandmother's closet, made
in thia style, witb tha waist cut a little
short, and the edge of the skirt at tbe
anklea. These quaint old dresses show
an old worid and old time awkwardness
that ia just now the prettiest thing in
the world. Tbe trouble is that
tha 16-year old daughter, whose
youth lug just this shy suggestion
of undeveloped graces, ia the very one
who thinks the gown a "fright" and
simply won't wear it. The only thing
to do is to make her one modified as to
length and waist, and rejoice if she will
don tbat. Pretty old-fashioned looking
cloths coma with sprigs of flowers scat
tered stiffly over a light ground. These
patterns especially suit the model sug
gested. For tbe rest, youth, health and
a contented mind will make the girl a ,
A JapaMie Kditor.
Editors may find some consolation in '
the fact tbtit they have inspired feelings ,
of envy in the breasts of a young Japa- ,
neao boy. A recent issue of an East In- <
dian paper contained tho following note: t
"A schoolboy in Loerabuya, was naked <
to describe, an editor of a paper. He did '
so in thia way: •Au editor is tho luckiest '
man In the world. He can go to a clr- '
ens every afternoon and every evening '
without paying a cent. He can go also (
tt> the court liotises, the places of oxeou- ,
tioq and the races. ,
"He has freo tickets to all theaters, ro- <
oeives presents at hia office, and gets his (
eatre boxed too. Ho goes also to Prigon, <
MaJang or Eawang (places of ainuao- <
ment). Ho does not do this often, how- '
ever. In ono pupor he cuu deny every
thing that was said in tho previous one,
and ho does so, as a ruloj. When other 4
people aro already in bedj, the editor is 4
atill up. He stays up late to see whut 4
happens. When I grow big I shall be- 4
como nn editor. Then I can stay np 4
Before the Eyes of the
Wonld a reliable) merchant guarantee Mr
cloth te return It's oolot when he knows nosl
tlvely It will not?
...Would, an.honorab'.a druggist soli you a rnm
Would an honest butcher send you meat ho
would not put on his own latne?
Then why will the would-be "Beauty Doc
tors" advertise for ssle prepnratiops that will
positively remove wrinkles, freckles, , ,
blackheads,etc., when 'hoy do not cure them
selves? 1 say it is
A Fraud on the Public!
Does not cacti lady not ice and remark the fit
of her modiste's gown? 80 it In with those
necking lovely complexions. Why would a
lady buy a pr .parallnu tbat Is advertised 10 bo
made lv a "Beamy Doctor's' own laboratory,
by herown chemist, under her personal super
vision, guaranteed to be perfect nnd to do th.
work promised, when the advertiser dare not
represent her own goods, fearing to be told—
"Doctor, heal thyself, then wo will buy,"
BUT NOT SO WITH
Mrs. Nettie Harrison.
_ jMfcti' T Rhpre&nt my
1 own goods; can !.••
m9HHBMH> seen and consulted
wltt> auv <,aT, ' r9e "
uX&Znp&tf R "d can oiler no bet-
\ te ' testimonial than
"'Ji']""] tllcc ' upon
F^-^ 1 ,n0 Bltln food and
t' I < stantly urod. High
J J «rl..T^dry winds mean
*Uttw,RlV»«*.ti IWA*t roueh , i, c hing and
% TutUA rUft**'*'"\ 0 burning faces. Now
Is the season when freokles make their appear
ance. Ladies, you nauunt afford to wear that
rough, sallow, muddy complexion with your
delicate new (rook aud bonnet. Ode pot of
Will Make Yonr Pace to Match Your
PRICE, 75c PER POT,
LASTS TBRBB MONTHS.
MRS. NETTIE H&RRISON,
AMERICA'S BEAUTY DOCTOR,
20 Ueary St., Ban Francisco, Cal,
Hair-Dresser and Manicure,
Rooms 41 and 4i, W'lson Block, cor. First and
1 ' Spring its., Los Angeles, Cal.,
| TO THE LADIES |
-2 OF LOS ANGELES: ie- :J
g B. PRIESTLY & CO.'S Right to the Use of Their Name and Trade-mark =f
Again Sustained by the United States Circuit Court. 25
In January; 1891, an application waa made in the United States Circuit Court for the Southern District of California, for an injunction againtt
FRANK GREY & CO., of this city, to retrain the taller from unauthorized tue of tht name of PRIESTLY with which to tell drett good, not made by
D - Prie * il V «* r °-< <>f Bradford, England. The temporary injunction waa granted, but the defendant corporation was not satisfied with that out
a>_ come, and proceeded to trial of the case on the merits, with the result indit-ated in the following letter from the attorneys having general charge of '^m
the Priestly oases. The following is the text of Judge Robs' final decree: — *t9
In the Circuit Court of the United States, in and for the Southern District of California:
BRINGS PRIESTLY ET AL,, Complainants, \
l£Z VS. VNO. 285.
FRANK OBEY & CO. (a Corporation), Defendant. Z^m
2 / 3
Be»~ Now on tbis day come the complainants, by Wilson A Lamms, their solicitors, and comes the defendant, by Graff A Latham its sollnltnr.
b>~_ and it appearing to the Court that the defendant has been duly Bsrvod with process herein by personal service, and the said defen"hint bavin. filed
P— anßwer *° tv » complainants' bill of complaint, and the complainants having filed their replication to the sli d answer, and it further ,„ ' '
that the said cause was duly referred to the Special Master to take the testimony and report the findings of fact, and upon the coming in of tie
!>- report of the said Special Master, the defendant fil.d its exceptions to the aaid findings of fact as so reported by the said Special Master which "
exceptions were duly considered and by the Court overruled. juMwr, wnnu
And this cause coming on to be beard at this term upon the bill and answer and the said Special Maater'a report and findings of fact and was Z ,
l>— argued by counsel, and in consideration whereof, .uu uuuiugg m iv», asa ins
\£Z uon" 18 OKDERKD ' AI)JUDtJ KD AND DECREED that the Master's report be, and the same ia hereby approved and affirmed, and there- I^J
EE «? lm FUR ™BB ORDERED, ADJUDGED AND DECREED by the Court that the said defendant, Frank Grey & Company (a corpora- Z^Z
I*- tion), its officers, attorneys solicitors, agents, servant, and employees and all persons acting through, under or by its direction be! and thWare
e>~ hereby teveraUy and perpetually restrained aud enjoined from telling or offering for tale, directly or indirect y, any goods whatever manufactured bvanv
E 1 FKMiF co l^ TnU " D olb *r tha » the complainant herein, nriggt Prietlley d: Company, and designated by the name ol Z2
|>_ Bpgg, PrieitUvA Company*! S,tk Warp Henrietta, aa the goods manuiactured by the said complainants, Briggs Priestly & Company, or PnVtttru'l
P>_ atnrUttat, or IneslleyA Company', Henriettas, or other like designation or name, or any goods similar to those manufactured and mid by the said Z22,
complainants Briggs iVi«stley & Company, or any goods similar to those manufactured by said Briggs Priestley & Company" a, iv the said com
a*— plamants' said bill of oompfein t a leged, or any colorable imitation thereof, and from pirating or infringing upon the marks designatedby- the saTd
£~ complainants Brigg,, Priestley & Company; the plaintiffs waiving the account prayed for in the bill, the &urt doeno"order such account
m— All of which ib finally ordered, adjudged and decreed by the Court. h
£l District Judge.
1 W. G. HITCHCOCK & CO. i
Importers and Commission Merchants, sotE "'kicak aohiti for
£ 453 & 455 Broome Street, Now York. B. PRIESTLEY & CO. 3?
456 TELEPHONE NO. 427.
Also Upholstering: and Furniture Repairing-.
JOHN BLOESER, 3 ,, 8an , m PROPRIETOR.
MRS. F. E. PHILLIPS'
Ladies Toilet Parlors
ROOMS 31 AND 32"WILS0N BLOCK,
COItNKH FIRST AND SI'KINO STS.
Take i X vutoron the Spring-street entrance.
CLEANING, DYEING, SCOURING
IN ALL IT3 BRANCHES.
LadlCß' »nd gents' garments cleaend, dyed
and renovated in Buperinr style at then notloo.
Blank, ts, curtains and merchants' goods.
Ostrich plumes cleaned, dyed and curled.
Tailoring establishment ln conueeton for all
ni™ and works, «15 Weßt Sixth street.
Store" 210« South Spring tstreet. Tel. 1016.
LOS ANGELLS. CAL.
—' - ->
Dr. *-ioiW» °" 1 t) nt La toot Im-
winch cnn bo fn
itc fitly felt by tho wearer. Warrantud superior, in
ovu n ro»pact. to all others now (none. Tiio fol
lowing totters from well-known residents ol the;
I'aeiUo Goaat, will speak for themselves*
M. LTTB RENEWER t
Ma.7 1 ;. A.'Woonuurr, Foht Uaniiv, WARrr., «nyn—
" • . montbs have now patted sinus I procured one
<>f your belts, end. t gives me pleasure sod much
satisfaction to renew my tentimony of eleven years
" in regard to tbe irefficacy in the relief of ailments
to which I have boon subjected."
JLAMTS Eb&Clt & RHEtfMATIfSM CtTJUEDI
Mn. J. W. Poirr.MAM, a woll-known ship'vriKht of
Tacoma, write a--" Your No. 3 Galvanic Ciiain Belt
ham'ona what ft whole drugetoro could not. do, for
it hp.j nurod me of Bciatio Rheumatiura atid Weak
Uiotc.alfio, which came on through a fall into a ship's
bold sonic tfiu yearn n«o. 1 felflH feet on my back,
ami although I got up ns if nothing had happened,
aua.aocordiitr to wh:tt tho doctor said, was not hurt,
tho back trnuhlod mo ever since nntil I tried your
bel t. mVttrtmt yutr <■. .< l Juivt fiU a/ / nsed to at so.'
Dr. Piorco*rt Belts (with Suspensory Attachments
for Men) will lm pent free by registered mail, on
receipt of above price, or O. O. D. by Express, with
privifeoo of examination, and comparison with
any si.nilar appUanco made ln America,
ourccoiptof $1. For further particulars, send 4c.
tn mumps for seated Pamphlet No. 11., or call at
the Manufactory and Koadijuartarsof the Company,
occupying thoenf im lid, 3d and 4th tloors,at the fol
lowing address,: Magnetic Clastic Truss Co.,
N W. cor. Kn&roy A Hauramento fits.. Sal Francisco.
™fi£BHJliflfi l,i ' " ,h > Tourfulfivllh l)ii.lm«. rara.
pfikln .t'lrhdriM-H.cMl <.tuiiir»p.W.n
-wHtVlW«"r"li'> g.Vl«-." "VlUl"ill""«;o"MIS.
WlaQMllL f -',HI t.l, r«,rri->i>nti<l<-ii<r 4'unQdciitlwl.
s, Bor £, CIUCAUV, JIX.
-31 BY —It-
DR. WONG !
713 South Main Street, Los Angeles, California.
"Skillful cure increase longevity to tho \ "Ingeniously looatlng disease! through the
—arid " I pulse arid excellent remedies aro .Treat blew
w I Inga to the world."
For seven montns l wa» treated by five different doctora, none ot whom stated what my die
case was. During that time I suffered terribly, and continued to tail until I became a skeleton.
For the last three months 1 had to be dressed, fed, and have my water drawn. Finally my leet,
limbs, hands slid face became swollen. I could not rise from a chair, and could scarcely walk,
and was obliged to hive my water drawn from fifteen to twontv times a day. My friends con
sidered I would not last many days. I then—three months ago-commenced treating with Dr.
Wong. The first dose of medicine completely relieved me, and since 1 have not been obliged to
resort to artificial means for relieving my bladder. In five days I was ablo to drew and feed my
self; lv ten days tha swelling had left me aud l'could walk as well as for years before. I now
weigh as mnoh aB I ever did, and feel better than I have felt for fifteen yean. lam 76 years old,
and feel tiptop. Dr. Wong says I was afflicted with oue of the fourteeu kinds of kldn«y disease*.
Btver»;cal„ August 20, 1890. W. W. CHiNKY.
Hundreds of other testimonials are 6n file in the doctor's office which he has received from
hia numerous American patients, whom he baa cured from all manner of diseases.
Large and commodious rooms (or tbe accommodation of patients. Coneulta