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12 New York, Not. 22, 1893. EVERY woman who desiree to be well dressed in her own horne — and what woman does not —will line in the accompany ing five pictures and the descrip tion of tbe cos tumes they por tray, some sugges tion for adaptation to their own uses, and practical aid in carrying them not. Allthedreas -98 pictured are for indoor wear, yet none partake of tne nature of a neglig£, each following cloeely the rules laid down for Btylisbdreßsing and mak ing tbe wearer appear at once home like and yet precisely attired. The plainest of tbe lot comes first, and ite sobriety ie due to the fact tbat it is offered as a model for tbe middle-aged or older. Ite material as sketched waa iron gray serge, though a great variety of materials would be equally tasteful. Its plain skirt baa two deep pleats kept in place by three rows of stitching. The bodice is trimmed with a soft broche silk in a shade matching the material. TTlis Zooti itomelik*. At tbe end of the grand basin at the fair, opposite the Columbian fountain, stood tbe statue of the Republic, and you cannot do better than bave your morning gawn draped in the back as Misa Republic wore ber beautiful folds. If yon caw her yon will remember; if you didn't, these directions will make it clear. A full breadth of very wide and rich silken stuff must fall from your shoulders softly to tbe floor in the back. The material is gathered into many fine folds on each shoulder, and irom this gathering two great Antes fall the full length, one from each shoulder. Between these flutes tbe goods fall in a great many horizontal small folds to abont the waist. In other words, the goods are gathered perpendicularly and horizontally too. The sleeves are ap parently continuations of the perpen dicular gatherings, und they are, ac it fjiere, another breadth, each caught up loosely and flowing along the back, mingling with the back. The fronts fall open and wide, the edges taking rich Antes as they fall. Of course, under this wonld be worn a short-waiflted gown of white with sleeves flowing to the wrist. The dress Miss Republic wore ia, per haps, a little classic for reproduction, but the drapery effects were beautiful and worth preserving. Salmon silk over white, eminence velvet over lilac crepe, or deep golden brown over corn yellow would be good combinations for it. If, of these two dresses, one is too plain and tbe other too fanciful for your liking, it may be that the dress worn by a yonng matron shown in the eecond illustration will prove a happy medium. Contrasted elaboration and gimplintii. Cut from yellow woolen nrepe show ing a small design in black stars, tbe skirt consists of a bell-sbaped upper and a circular lower half joined together with two rows of shirring and a small head. The circular portiou is three yards wide and is garnished with a lace frill ten inches wide around the bottom and by a second frill of the stuff" two and a half inches in width ten inches above. The jacket has a yoke, alike in back and front, to which the two front pieces and back are shirred, with a side front under each arm. The sleeves have a fitted lining, and the puff is made oi a piece of material gathered to the cud and held in place near tbe elbow by a two-inch band ol black lace insertion. The cuffs arc also garnished with lace insertion. The epaulettes come Jrom | aooordeon pleated lace eight incl.es deep. The yoke ia made of stuff' and lace insertion in the manner indicated, I and is finifjbed by a gathered lace frill I FASHION NOTES topped by en arrangement of ends and loope of black watered ribbon. A belt of the came tiea in a bow in tbe front. Two of tkndtr inpf Tbe little girl's dreßs here has a zouave guimpe made of red and white striped voile or pongee, and tbe jacket and ekirt are from the bright red cashmere. The skirt Is lined with otiit" muslin and the deep hem is topped by a white silk braid, wbich also comes on the jacket. The guimpe hang* over the top of tbe skirt, and is gathered to a neckband and also at the waist with a di-awatring It buttons invisibly in 'runt and has very full, wide sleeves, finished with an elastic and a narrow rutile at the wrist. The jacket ia cut away iv front, and tbe two points are held together with gold link buttons. Velvet is extensively used as a garni ture this winter, and bids fair to outdo everything else in tbe way of trimming. In the left band dreaß of the next pic ture the stuff used is terra cotta and bluish green mixed suiting trimmed witb bluiah green velvet. The bodice iB plain in back, but the fronts are bix inches apart at the neck and two inches at the bottom, where they are gathered and fall in blouse fashion over the vel vet belt. Each front is adorned with a band of velvet two inches wide .orna mented with buttons apun with yellow Eilk. In the center a narrow folded etripe of lemon-colored surah is visible further ornamented witb fancy herring bone stitching in green silk. The re vere collar is made of double velvet and ends in points, something like jacket fronts, near the waist. The eleeves have a large pnff, tacked in tbe center and linishek with silk ball fringe showing tbe colors of the material. Tbe came fringe falls over tbe velvet fold around the bottom of the bell skirt. From the extreme plainnens of the ini tial's costume to this complex affair is a longitride; indeed, aa far ac this arti cle is concerned, the last costume is the climax of elaboration, for the remaining toilets ara all more simple. Take the other figure in the same uictuie: equal ly stylish, it is quieter in every way and its fabric is black; silk, trimmed with pink. The skirt is moderately wide and is garnished around tbe bottom by three rulllt'B, and two more come 30 inches higher. The bodice baß a yoke of pink silk covered witb phirred black illueion and trimmed wiibjet ia-Bcmen- terie. The siik ia gathered to the yoke in front and back, the fullness kept in placß by paesementerie banda. Tbe wide belt ia made of two bands of jat passemeneterie divided by a silk stripe. Tbe puffs of the eleevea are also trimmed with jet bands put over pink silk and tbe gathered epaulettes are edged with the same. The wrists and standing collar are trimmed with a ruching of black Bilk covered with illusion. The model at the left in fourth sketch if a youthful one, and one particularly suitable for slender figures. The mate ria! used is a red, blue and yellow finely plaided cheviot, trimmed with yellow satin and black watered silk. The skirt must fit enugly over the hips and the remainder is slashed to give the box pleats. At tbe top in front the pleats are split to permit a band of watered silk to pass through and end in a huge bow at the left Bide. The bodice has a ronnd yoke and standing collar made of yellow satin. The Beam, join ing bodice and yoke, ia bidden by a cir cular collar of black watered silk, finished at the left Bide with a large bow of watered ribbon. The openings between the pleats are filled in by pieces of ribbon, to make it apper as if the collar was run through the same aa the aibbon on the shirt. The puffed le-o'-mutlon eleevea bave turned back cuffa of yellow satin. The right hand drees ie composed of sand colored cloth and garnished with velvet in a darker shade. The skirt has a bell shaped foundation which is covered witb three deep circular flounces tbat are not hemmed at tbe edges. The fitted bodice hooka in front beneath tbe plastron of velvet, which ia fastened at one aide and hooks over to the other. The fronts turn back to form revere and are caught with two pearl buttons at the waist. The revere a° well as the turned down collar are made of velvet. The bodice further has a triple garniture of circular ruflleß that come all the way around in back and end in points in front. None of these rnilies are hemmed or lined and the epace between each succeeding frill is one inch. The hodice aleo has a cir cular skirt that ia very wide around tbe bottom. While the young woman's nose in the final picture is of the lolling, seini-re clining sort, yet ber tirees is not r>f tbe neglige order which so oiten accom panies such posturing. It is a very TPS AMxELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER 26, 1893. pretty house dress made from white and blue striped silk trimmed with white guipure lace. Tbe skirt ie trimmed around the bottom with three narrow lace rofrles and is lined with silk. The bodice bae a point in bock and hooka in front.. It is adorned witb separate jacket fronte, round at tbe bottom and having small revere at tne top, tbat are hidden by the wide frill of lace commencing at the base of the revere, then continuing over the shonldere and meeting in a point in tbe center of the back. The center of tbe front is trimmed with a perpendicular band of lace that bides the hooks and eyes. The jacket fronta are faced with blue velvet and the belt is to match. Small yokei, pointer] front end beck end let into bodices, ere covered witb rows of braiding and gold. These yokes often come out for especial occasions. But tbe American woman has a deep rooted objection to the trick gown tbat can be made to serve any occasion by taking in or out yokes, adding train and removing sleeves. When she bae a new dress she wants every one to know it ie new and tbat it isn't the old one witb the neck out or with a piece gone from the train. Copyright, 1893. FURS FOR FEMININITY. Tho Proper Thine >" Capos, Coats and Matt*.. New York November 22, 1893. gaan urriers maet be ■ P heartless men, for M again thia winter P "tey plan to be- I dek the throats * i fair and gentle women with those dreadful, whole 'beaetiee" which •ie so popular ac ;ppets laet win ter. They are no longer little, but are bo big now that one wonders how the women .lare put tbem on I'hey come ttt all priceß, too, from a cheap martin, wbich, alas, is really pueßy cat, to Hudson bay sable. These last are deep furred and soft and com prise the whole animal, two little paws d.mgling in front with the head and two Muffs about this size. at the back with the little tail, any one of tbem enough to make a woman cry for pity. But what baa a woman to do with pity where furs are concerned! Doesn't she delight in Persian lamb, soft as velvet and flexible as fine wool? What does ehe care tbat softness and flexibility mean tbat thepoor little lamb never aaw the light of day, poor baby ! killed with its mother that some gentle dame might have fur soft enough to pleaae her? But how nice the fur looks! An odd feature of fashionable fur usage is tbat the amount of fur dis played in any one costume ia wholly at the disccetion of the wearer. Thus, a woman may be enveloped in a wrap tbat comeß almost to the gronnd, and cover her head with a bat liberally trimmed with the same pelt, or she may, as in the costume of the initial picture, let the only bit of fur in her make-up appear in a narrow band about the brim of her felt hat. In general, the latter j method, is perhaps, more in accordance I with current acceptances, but both are i permissible. The garment which the I fur-trimmed bat accompaniee, is a coat jof red cheviot. It consists of_ a 1 coat proper, which buttons in | visibly In front, to which is attached a circular cape which leaves a yoke-like portion of the coat exposed. This yoke is covered with black all-over embroidery, which alao appears on the collar. The latter is stiffened with crino line and haa a rolling edge. The lace cape is 135 inches wide aud 18 inches deep and the seam tbat joins tbe lace and cloth capes to the coat is covered with a foil ribbon ruching. Besides the edginu of fur the hat, which is in a shade of paris green, has ita low crown encircled 'by a velvet band and two velvet points and a pale green bird's bead are placed in front. Behind these come two black and green changeable Mercury wings with a fan-like aigrette. A coat fur edged. A wearer whose choice it for more display of fur than can be put upon a ha.t, ia ehe of tbe eecond illustration. Her huge, handsome boa and the muff are of Russian seal, soft, fleecy and beautiful. Mtffi are promised which shall closely follow 1830 styles as to be simply hnge. but it ie not likely that the early winter will ace many euch, although the wee cold things wbich paraded aa mnffs in the recent past will sorely be abandoned. Sable remains the choicest for next to ermine and is made np in handsome deep capee, with or without butterfly oollars. There is a great difference in the price of sable, and almost a corre sponding difference in length of fur and softness of texture and color. Sealskin alwaye holds its place. This season it is darker and silkier than ever and that means tbat it has been extraordinarily subjected to dyeing and scraping. Tbat Another furred wrap, in turn means that your sealskin will hardly look well a season through. There fore, if you really want a seal, you'd better have it made into a cape, because a cape gets Isbs wear than does a coat, having no sleeves to rub, no outside pocket to wear and also escaping a good deal of wear in sitting down that a coat gets. If, however, your only idea is to spend money and nelp your hus band to weather tbe present "financial crisis" by wearing the best and so inspiring bis creditors (alt but the one who sold yon the coat) witb confidence, then bave a sealskin frock coat. Let the skirts be very full, tbe sleeves very t large at tbe shoulders, and the revers either faced witb astrakan or ermine. Anyone would know that the little girl of the next picture was new to her muff for she is not content with holding it in ite proper place, but she must lift it to her eves to admire its pretty shade of tan, rub it against her cbin to test its softness and blow into it to satisfy her self of its thickness. Many times must the muff go throngh these approving processes, and many confiding smiles must it receive before it begins tn age in its young wearer's appreciation. The fur here is beaver, and narrow ed ging of it is seen about tbe hem, fronts, cuffs and cape of tbe coat. Rome would add a strip of it to the hat, but all such matters are left to personal choice. Tbe coat itself ia of cloth and lined with quilted pink satin, the frouts aud back being pleated to a yoke. The back baa a wide boxpleat held in place at tbe waist by a fancy braid strap, and the slashed collar is linned witb plain silk. Ermine ie being nsed chiefly in com bination with other furs notable with seal baveTests let in'of ermine, and'tbe shoulder puff and collar of the same. An etmine muff, too, should be carried. Krmine also comes in sets consisting of tbe big old time muff of our grand parents, a tippet alto like the ones tbe old-time dames wore, and cuffs. Such a set is worn with a velvet or seal cloak. Krmine ie also used to line opera cloaks, the outside being indelicate shades of soft silk velvet. A regal cape of teal reaching generously below the hips is .lined with ermine and can be worn either side out, the dark side outside for ! the street and the reverse for the thea ! tre. At once a protection and an ornament. In the fourth sketch there ia another fur trimmed wrap worn with a boa and muff to match. In this model, a suit able one for young matrons, the materi al ia black cloth madeuD without lining. The circular double co'lar consists of cloth on the lower, and crossgrain on the mpper side, the upper collar coming down the fronts of the wray and being trimmed with jet. Thie collar and fit ted fronts are garnished with the fur. Astrakan is to be much worn and the Persian comes very high. The hair is longer than ever and looßely curled. One wondere if the cultivators of furs have been dosing and rubbing their as trakan animals all summer with hair tonic stuffs. Astrakan is made up in frock coata and capes and is to be much used for trimming cloth gowns. To meet the craze for "black and white" it is made up with ermine, ba% somehow it does not look just right, for the aa trakan seems too common lor tbe ermiue. Monkey is still used and is cheaper than it was last year, but it is moßt awfully ugly now aa always, and after all not 'much nicer than its own frequent imitator, dyed goat fur. Mar tin not unlike cable of the commoner quality, is a good stand by fur and inex penrive. A fur lately introduced is called Janet and is for lining longctoake. It is soft, almost too soft to Btand well the wear that comes on a lining of a : delicate brown color and not expensive, i It would be hard to say whether the i furred front of the plush jacket in the i final picture is more for ornement or for ! protection. It haa auch a fragmentory appearance that at first glance it would Beem worth ' less as a security against tbe cold, but j it etill is a protection for the cheat while I being a decided addition to the jacket's j appearance. Tbat garment is made of black plush, is thinly wadded and lined with blaik satin merveilleux. The far is Persian lamb. Tbe novelty of thie is the little butter fly cape gotten up in sable, ermine, as i trakan or seal. It is made with a high flaring collar and is so full that it stands j out in scallops which are so deep that the lining shows. These little affairs are made witb great attention to detail, two or three kinds of fnr being put into them often, as a Beal one that haa van dykes of aatrakan about the edge and a lining of arming, the tails set about the lower edge wite just tbe black tips pro jecting, Theae little capes cost extrav gantly and there is little warmth to them. Tails are much used for trimm ing fnr cloaks and dresses. Mink tails are set together and used for fringes and so are ermine tails. Of course, there are few good imita tions of really tine and very coatly seal skin, but one the "cony" or Paris seal cnmee pretty near it and is much cheaper. For $70 a long cloak to the hips and a little below can be bought which will look for all the world like its $400 neighbor. The fur ia the came color, a shade deeper than tbe seal, per haps, and lacking a bit in tbe flexibility of the seal, but to all practical purpose just as handsome aa the Beal, and so just like it tbat it will fool anyone but a woman who ia attempting tbe deception herself. Besides, it will outlast the real article by two seasons. Copyright, 1893. ROUNDABOUT ROUTE. !."" X Voyftie or * Cargo of N*ll« An Io- Ifronnnj; t'ilr. The suit of tho United States vs. 260 kega of nails was argued on Friday before the Circut Court of Appeals in S n Francisco. It is an interesting one lor merchants, as on the judgament in it depends whether $250,01)0 worth of merchandise that has been seized shall be told by the Government or be returned to its former owners. It is interesting also because of the sidelight that it throws on the overland freight charges. The 250 kegs of nails were shipped from >iew York in June, 1891, to Antwerp, Belgium, on tbe Belgian ship Waesland, and after being unloaded at Antwerp were at cnce put aboard the British ship Kirkcudbrightshire and taken to Re dondo California, A federal statute provides that merchandise shall not be transported from one port of the United States to another on foieign bottoms, and under tbat section the seizure was made at Redondo. It may be seen tbat it wonld be more expensive to send tbe goods to Europe, thousands of miles out of tbe way, when their distillation waa a domestic port, but the shippers found tbe cost other wise. On account of the combination between the Pacific Mail and the South ern Pacific freight rates were so high that it was cheaper for them to trans port their goods on foreign ships. Tbey could not secure American bottoms at reasonable rates, It would have baen plainly against the law to Bend merchan dise directly from New York to a Cali fornia port iv foreign bottom, so the device of shipping first to Europe was retorted to. The goods were returned free of duty, aa goods of American manufacture are thus exempted under tbe tariff law. Alter taking this roundabout conrae on the aea the merchant found that they paid from $3 o $4 a ton leea for freight than they would if they had shipped hy the more direct routes which the combi nation controlled. Hardware was the principal hind of merchandise tnuß Bhipped, ac it did not raitU""ul , "«t, l J\. whiskey were also seized. Tbe seizures at this port aggregated 1250,000. Before shipping by the European route the New York merchants got a rnling from the treasury department in 1891 that the law could nut prevent tbe shipping of merchandise in tbat way. The treasury department issued blauks to fit such shipments. When it was seen that this plan would cut into the freight business of the combination, the treasury departmen' changed its mind and sent out instructions to make the seizures. District Judge Ross decided the Ke dondo case against the government, and an appeal was taken. It waa argued in Han Francisco by District Attorney Gar ter tor the United States and Messrs. Page and Andros for the merchants. After Judge Boss' decision, in which be heid that the statute conld not pre vent the mercantile maneuver, congreaß, in February, 1893, amended the law so aa to prohibit any resort tothis saving plan hereafter." above Ever ythixq Else, ■ Dr. Pierces Golden Medical Discovery purifies the blood. (OSsiij® "J" 'h' B means, 't JlS3wf» reaches, builds up, .vXL?*? - invigorates ev -> V\j!r/ f cry part of the sys mtb tern. For every j! blood-taint and dis |l order, and for ev -11 cry disease that I I comes from an in- I I active liver or im / \ pure blood, it is the / \ only remedy «o sure / \ and effective that it / \ can be guaranteed. ' -Jt If the " Discov | i T cry" fails to bene- I I s ! W I fit or cure, in every case, you have your money back. These diseases are many. They're different in form, but they're like in treatment. House up the torpid liver into healthful action, thor oughly purify and enrich the blood, and there's a positive cure. The " Discovery " does this, as nothing else can. Dyspepsia, Indigestion, Biliousness ; all Bronchial, Throat, and Lung Affections; every form of Scrofula, even Consumption (or Lung-scrofula) in its earlier stages; and the most stubborn Skin and Scalp Diseases, are completely cured by it. Always open —the offer maae by the proprietors of Dr. Sage's Catarrh Remedy. It's a reward of |500 cash for an incurable case of Catarrh. The only question is—are. you willing to try it, if the makers arc willing to take the risk ? I my fellow S J 1 sulleicrsa Free Remedy {-3/ that will positively euro Seminal Weakness, Emit- - sioiis, Lost Manhood, .14 .1 Varicocele, Nervou3 De %l 1 I f. nUfly, and supply tone —f \gfarjd strength to thoGcn- *" Kzeraiivo Organs of the *^:bodj. Address ' // Pkop. J, S. BEECH. P. 0.80x.2076, Sati 1. joclsco. Cal. Orange, LefflODaod OtherFioe Fruit Lands AND ORANGE AND LEMON TREES ON FIVE AND TEN YEARS' TIME. T CAN FURNISH SO FAMILIES wits 10 teres each, only 1 mile f-om eraMT of RoA'uid*, J with pure mou.mi.in water in pipe, at oacu piece, and require*lSO rash down<>u eacii 10, aw! balance ou ten yean' time I oan supply 10 acre, each to6o more persons vi Menton •, With flret-ciass Washington Navel, Mediterranean Sweet or Valeno* Late Orange and Llsbn i Lemon ireet; only require one-third cash down on land and trees, balance oan rim 3 art. One variety ot oranges grown at Mentone Hold thia year at <«4 per U>*Vone variety at *3 ;iO iijf box, and the it. p now on the trees is already Hold at aauie rate. Where clue can you lnVo»l your money to bring you aa great returns? ORANGE GROVES FOR SALE. 20 acres, half in Washing on Navels, 10 acres 1 mile Irom « >dl»ads, aU In on. forth in Me.tllenanean Swee'.s, bearing oiauge. .......... » 4, - -00 ont-.ourlli in leniona, with pleutv ;o acres, oranges and ol yea, hall ntl.e wat-ir and only miles from center from Mentone H0u1.... .. .. ..... l'.OOil of Redlands 1 rine. * 7,000 20acres, Mentone Highland., all lv 40 seres lif in lira from Redlands P. O , bearing • 1.i.00n a,l in bearing, p. r acre ! €00 10 acres, oranges, good homo and Will divide in 3 pleres; aameprirc everything lv line condition 0.000 LOS ANGELES CITY PROPERTY. llt» house, 10 large rooms and cor- 1 two-story house ou Temple .tree', ncr lot on Hill street; only S ft 500 only 10 minute.' wa.k iron tn« , . ... It. ... court house; 11 is one of t tie bent iui 11 This is +2000 le«s than the actual value of house. In the city. plastered and d u this prop -r y. as the lot IsSSxUO, with good or ated. with good carriage heme and carriage houai, stable and about 2uOO square ,nble; the price tor HO d «ys will be. 5,7.10 feet of cement walks. r 1 bouse of 19 rooms, on., a tew door. VACANT BUILDIStt LOTS. from tbe most beautiful plate In tbe 1 lot on Angeleno Heights, only * 1,200 city, aud not more than 8 minutes' 1 lot in West Bounie Biae, and the walk from the court hou.a; the into- most d slrablo now vacant. 1,200 nor of the house Is llu shed in fanny 1 lot on Myrtle aye , near Pico, only . o<ki wood. P-ice for the present for the 1 1 lot, with good barn, on Court st 1,200 home and two lot. B.ftOO | 1 lot. on Bellevue aye., each 1,000 I have house, and lota in all parti of the city, although I only advertise a lew of the beet bargains. Apply to W. P. 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Dr. Wong ro«tored hi. .ight lv three week.' time. savannah, ,)*'. After I had been Ue.ted eleven yeara^by six different•,a«t°"'. g 1[ h.d .tated tbat I couldn't live two month., I look Dr. Wong s medicine and was rured iv month,. I enjoy excellent health, and weigh 1,0 PftIVATE. NERVOUS AND CHRONIC DISEASES OF MEN quickly cured without the usj of poisnni 4000 cures. Ten years in Lou Angeles, DR. WONG, 713 South Main St., Los Angeles. WINE MERCHANT, 131 N. Main st. [886b;i Telephone 38 UNION OIL COMPANY OF CALIFORNIA. Producers and Refiners of PETROLEUM OIL Manufacturers of Hisrh Grade Cylinder and Ewrme Oils. Large Producers ot Fuel Oil. San Francisco Office, 204 California st. Branch Office, 135 E. Second st., Los Angeles GEORGE M. SMITH, Tel. 1174. iQ.ii iy Maimger Los Angelps Brain li. SOUTH FIELD WELLINGTON COAL. COAL! COAL! COAL! Stock Up For the Winter and Get the Benefit of Summer Prices. HANCOCK BANNING. Tela. ;i(i and 104.7. »i 3 " !■!<» w P st Sccoud St