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Evening Gowry Picturesque and Practical
IN PREPARATION apparently for
an unusually long winter season,
for Easter falls late this coming
season, there has been an uncommon
number of new designs and fashions
for evening gowns, so that the range
d choice is almost unlimited. A wom
an, if she so elects,' may be gowned m
some picturesque fashion, may oe
moat conventionally attired, may garb
herself in satin or velvet, or may wear
the flimsiest of lace or tulle and have
the delightful consciousness of being
quite the fashion.
In colors there is also a rich field of
choice, and the different shades of the
different colors are apparently endless.
In embroideries and laces it would also
seem as though designers and manu
facturers alike had combined to turn
out rare and wondrous effects. Hand
work, as has so often been said, has
reached a degre<e of perfection un
known before this winter, while in
machine work such results have been
obtained as, to make it difficult at first
glance for a trained eye to distinguish i
the real from the imitation.
Colored Satins for Evening
Velvets and sating are lighter in
weave and texture than formerly, and
consequently lend themselves to the
rew design much better. Long lines
and graceful draperies can be far more
easily obtained when the material is of
such grade that It can be arranged in
accord with the prevailing fashion,
which at the moment calls for grace
and supple folds. White and light col
ored satin gowns are extremely smart,
but for the moment the colored Batins
are more popular than white, and if
the former are used the Ivory ana
cream tones are considered more ef
fective than the plain or blue white.
Skirts of medium length, with pleats
at the sides and back, are made up
without trimming and show off a fine
quality of satin to the best possible
advantage, while a much cheaper qual
ity of satin cun be made up to better
advantage in a skirt with these shaped
ilouncs. The draped waist, but al
ways with a long point in front, is trw;
inoßt popular style, but rather an odrt
effect can be obtained by the exagger
atedly wide belt or bodice, with a short
bolero of satin or luce over It, and
slashed at the back to show the boatce.
Visit to the Home for Crippled Dolls
THE poor little crippled dollies aro
not as lucky or as stylish as
either the cats and dogs or even
the birds. They huve no private hospi
tal or boarding house, nor does any
kind-hearted society prevent careless,
thoughtless children from dropping and
breaking the heads and limbs of the
poor little dollies.
The doll's hospital consists of only
one single room, with a wooden operat
ing table and n practical, nimble sur
geon, who must be a Jack or all trades
He Is able to attend to all the unfor
tunates brought to this home for crip
ples, as the doll'x hospital should be
called. Some of the dollies looked as
though they had been in war. Others
looked Just a* though they had es
caped from a burning house. It would
really mak« you shudder, were it not
such a funny Might, to see all the
bruised and broken bodies lying on the
operating table, an the doctor laugh
ingly said, awaiting surglcul repairs.
All the dollies looked fat and heulthy,
and, as their rosy cheeks Indicated,
they had never been sick before.
How strange to see so many cripples!
Some dolls were without arms or legs.
Some lacked one eye or even both eyes.
Home seemed to have been scalped by
the Indian* and needed a new wig.
Others looked as though their noses
and ears had been bitten oft In a hur
ry by cannibals. Some had lost their
fingers and toes. Probably they hud
been frost bitten or perhaps broken
off playing baseball or football.
One little girl thought her doll was
cross-eyed, and begged the doctor to
'■vie It or put new eyes in her. dolly's
head. Another child wanted a false
tooth put in her doll's mouth. Bhe had
broken It off forcing her to take a dose
of, castor oil. Still another little girl
complained her dolly was getting bald
which goes almost to the top of the
waist.
A charmingly picturesque ; model,
suitable for an elaborate tea gown or
a simple dinner gown. Is copied frorr 1 .
an old picture. The Watteau pleat ia
more than suggested, although not
fully carried out The material of the
gown is the palest blue satin, while
down the front are lines of pale pink
chiffon roses, appliqued on to the
?atin. A full ruffle of lace, so full that
it falls like a jabot on either side,
brings the parts quite close together
over a lace front. The sleeves, in el
bow length, finished with wide lace
ruffles, are tightfltting, with, however,
just a suggestion of fullness at the top,
giving rather a higher effect than if
there were a sloping shoulder seam.
A flowered brocade made after this
model, especially If the pompadour
colorings and patterns are used, is also
most enduring, and, if economy must
needs be consulted, is less expensive,
for a cheaper quality of brocade Btraw
satin looks well, and there need not be
the chiffon applique, the lace being an
all sufficient trimming.
Spangled and pallletted robes. Sure
ly it would seem as though the time
must have come for them to seem Just
a trifle old-fashioned, particularly as
the papers are tilled with advertise
ments of them, and at such popular
prices, but the spangled gown fills a
place In the wardrobe that nothing
else seems able to, and now there are
so many different qualities and color
ings, as ■well as patterns, that the va
riety demands attention.
A nlack net gown with Jet silver, gold
or steel paillettes, Is one of the most
effective gowns a woman can possess.
For the moment the gold spangles or
paillettes are tremendously in demand,
and consequently are smart. The
craze for brown is seen in the differ
ent shades of the color with bronze or
since the moths had gotten into her
hulr, and although she trimmed It reg
ularly it would not grow. If the doc
tor found it necessary to put on a new
wig, the little girl said, she preferred
a pretty golden brown just, like her
mamma's hulr.
A very amusing and interesting
sight at the dolls' hospital was the
large glass case containing; the artifi
cial limbs, eyes, teeth and wigs of ev
ery size, color and description.
Jleally, the poor little crippled dollies
looked Just like new after leaving the
skillful hands of the doctor.
SPECTACULAR SALADS
Should your husbund send word At
, 5 o'clock that he Is bringing home one
or more guests to dinner, with the aid
of v . spectacular salad und a few
trilling dainties a very simple home
dinner can be made to look and seem
more festive.
By adding oysters, olivet) and salted
almonds to a plain meal and following
It \ ith an ornamental salad the af
fair at once takes on a look of dis
tinction which impresses any male at
least.
The spectacular salad la one which
looks as good as It tastes. Borne of
these are made with tomatoes.
If any cold vegetables are left over,
such as beans, peas, potatoes, carrots,
cut potatoes, beans and carrots into
tiny balls, till them in empty toma
toes, pour over them a very little
French dressing. Whip salted cream
mixed with chopped chives until stiff
and cover the tomatoes with the
cream. I
A chicken salad can be made to look
like a large daisy. Heap the minced
chicken on a platter, cover the mound
with mayonnaise. Boil five eggs until
hard. Cut In eighths and arrange the
whites to stimulate tut petal*.
LO3 ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY ' SUPPLEMENT.
coid spangles, while mauve, blue and
green are also to be found, ln any num
ber of new and effective patterns.
White spangled with silver is not so
new, but the designs outlined with the
spangles or paillettes are absolutely
novel. Yellow with gold Is exquisitely
harmonious, and white spangled with
gold and put over pleated or yellow
chiffon gives a deep champagne which
Is most original and striking.
RIBBON REIGNS IN FASHIONS FOR GIRDLES, COLLARS AND HAIR BOWS
There is not a great variety 1 of de
slgnvin the making up of spangled
gowns, or robes, as they are called.
The most expensive have ruffles or
flounces, the cheaper ones are much
simpler — on the pattern and the span
gles, or paillettes depends the price,
for the quality Is very much the same
In all. The machine ' made, heresy
though it be to admit it, have the dis
agreeable property of. going to pieces;
if one or more spangles are ripped or
torn the others as a rule follow suit,
while the hand sewed gowns— said to
be—last much longer, so far as the
spangles are concerned.
All spangled gowns must be made
i:p over chiffon or tulle and on silk or
satin foundation, and although It
seems at first glance as though It
would be by no means difficult to
RIBBONS of rich hues and except
tlonully beautiful (It-signs tlila
seaason tempt women to inuke
ribbon outfits to go with all manner of
costumes for ' all kinds of occasions.
The touch of ribbon appeals to old un<4
mnke up one of these pattern robes
th« proposition is by no means a sim
ple one. The waist and skirt of sill:
or satin must be carefully fitted, the
skirt must be full enough— then must
come the gathered, shirred or accord
lon pleated chiffon skirt and chiffon
rovering the waist, and finally the
robe itself must be most carefully
hung, so as to secure the deslde "flare
and yet not cut too full around the
hips, for the net of which these gowns
is made is apt to be rather harsh in
texture and does not fall gracefully
into pleats or gathers. .
The color scheme can be gone into
tremendously, for the color of the lin
ing will work a perfect transformation
of the spangled net. A most effective
form of black net spangled in gold is
caught up over pale yellow; and the
coloring is exquisite, for the » n >nß
seems to bring out and intensify the
brightness of the gold. The same form
young. The girl revels In ribbons— they
set off her hulr and gown to perfection
— and ehe who hus long- passed the
freshness of of girlhood seeks to soften
hard lines and freshen faded beauty by
the innocent artifice of the dulnty rib
bon bow. Ribbon, If properly used,
lends grace to new frocks and revives
garments that have grown pause.'
For aeverul years the generous use of
ribbons has been on the increase, and
this season marks the high water mark
of their popularity. The shaded rib
bons, the pompadour effects, the won
derful combinations <at color, make
them irresistible. These new ribbons
lend themsplves admirably to the ma
nipulation of skillful linger*, and she
who can form them Into modish effects
may save many v dollar, for the made
up ribbon novelties in the shops are
very expensive.
In selecting ribbons for girdles care
must be taken to- have them soft
enough to shirr well, yet with enough
over Mark i« entirely different In "«f>
feet, to different it 18 hard to realize 1*
Is the sam<>.
A Riot of Lace and Embroideries
Thrre is 'great danger of over-olnb*
oration In the fns'nlonn for this winter,
for fnncy hn« quite r ,i n riot In tM
matter of lure nnrl rnlbrolderles. A
satin gown In often bo hidden by tho
embroidered lace with' which -It' Is
trimmed that very little of the mate
rial shown. The bertha of lac*, nlco
embroidered nnd Rvnerally »pangl<*<V
quite hides the tipppr part of the waist,
nnd If only a Rlimpne of the rich belt
or bodice Is Oioclosed that In consid
ered quite fltifllclent. The faahlon In n
boon to the woman who finds It requla*
Ite to-rnnke over her last year's ward
robe, or no few yards of the material
need show, and under the rich flounce*
of embroidered lace a multitude of sins
may bo hidden. At the name time the
woman who loves beautiful clothes
and can have them had now an oppor
tunity to be well ciK'SK-d according to
her most luxurious Ideas, for the very
feet that throughout the entire gowns
are URed only the newest and most ex
pensive of fabrics Is most satisfactory.
Embroidered lace is one of fashion's
most expensive fad*, and such strange
schemes as using medallions of hand
painted or embroidered chiffon in real
lcce la extremely fashionable. The
coloring of the painting or embroidery
must nlways be light— green and blue,
pink nnd green — the tiniest of plume*
and the finest of flowers. Most ex
quisite to examine Is such work, al
though again It must be admitted that
Its beauty does not appeal Instantly
to the casual observer. On the paleHt
pink, blue, green or white satin green
trimming of this description Is .in
keeping, and, after all, the question of
dress is a serious one in these days,
nnd It behooveth every woman to per
fect herself In the art thereof so that
she can tell at a glance the real from
tho falre.
The hand painted chiffons used for
entire gowna or In flounces uhow.al
ways a much bolder treatment as 'to
dress, larger flowers nnd a deeper color
throughout, while the embroidered
Inces have al*o r bolder treatment, the
flowers of chiffon or silk embroidery,
being on a larger order and the colors
deeper.
Embroideries to Match Lining
. Another curious fashion is to b»
noted In the design of the embroidery
being quite different from that of the
lace on which It I* worked. A pattern
of a trailing rose vine or a wistaria In
the delicate purple shades has nothing
whatever to do with the designs of the
lf.ee on which It U worked, and yet
oddly- enough the two designs do . not
[conflict as might be supposed, but ap-.
parently each but accentuates the
other: the colors in the embroidery
Standing out in strong relief* from the
flat surface of the lace, while the de
sign of the lace shows most clearly
underneath. A charming fancy illus
trating what an Important part- color
plays in this year's fashions shows It
self In the color of the lining over
which thin gowns are made being re
peated in the embroidery; Then with
girdle and a touch of color on the
waist of the deepest possible shade in
connection with the color of the em
broidery the effect ia most original.:
Only be it noted that there should be
a touch of the same deep color used
in a flower or knot or , ribbon • in the
hair, otherwise the gowns will not be
nearly so beoomlng. ■ . "■ '
To go back to the Jet embroidered
and pailletted gowns' being so. -useful-
There can be endless changes wrought
by the colors introduced in belt or in
the trimming on the waist. A cluster
of pink roses on the shoulder,, ot
orchids, or in i truth of any flower and
the gown looks utterly different, while
the colored- bodices, if becoming, will
again furnish quite an innovation.
Detail, detail, always detail Is j more
requisite than ever to the finish of the
modern smart gown. Flowers, rib
bons, stockings, shoes, not to mention
hair ornaments, must one and all 1 be
carefully chosen, and must be exactly
right to give that finished smart effect
that fashion demands of her followers.
Now* however, is the opportunity for
the clever woman to prove herself
clever, and for the woman blessed with
good taste in dress to exhibit her tal
ent She, with a capital S, will choose
only what Is becoming, and will study
her own especial color scheme, and the
end will Justify the means.
body to keep them from getting stringy. '
Flowers may be combined effectively'
with ribbon. A violet girdle, for in
stance, made of shaded violet ribbon. I
with a garniture of artificial violets,
is exceedingly pretty. To make it, one'
and one-eighth yards of violet, corded •
ribbon, about six inches wide, ; and, the .
same amount • of satin ribbon of: the
same shade, about seven inches wide, :
are needed. . The ends on the back of ■
the girdle are made of two shades of
No. 7 velvet ribbon, trimmed ! with
shaded velvet violets. As many rows
of violets may be used to decorate the
girdle as are desired, they being placed
in rows at regular intervals.
In the new melon shades there are '
splendid possibilities for pretty ribbon
trimmings. A rich girdle can be made .
with ten yards of five inch soft silk .
ribbon and three and one-third . yardi '"
of the three new shades of melon. This
is pretty made up with a double^row
of shirring in front and three rows on '
each side. The back may be finished
with soft loops or bows.
An effective girdle, the Dolly Varden/
requires two and one-quarter yards o£ ; '
plain pink satin ribbon. The same '
amount of pink and white Dresden rib-;
bon and twenty yards each of • pinlc
wash' ribbon one-half inch wide and'
of white . wash ribbon ' one-half .-Inch ..
wide. The wide ribbons are used for.,
the girdle proper and are shirred per- ■
pendlcularly at regular intervals. 'The"
narrow ribbons 'form long ends', for
loops attached by green calyxes used
in making artificial flowers. ,
A neck stock is similarly made, re
quiring flve-elghthß of a yard of soft :,
white taffeta five Inches wide, .with 'a
band of one-Inch Dresden as a finish^
at the top. It Is shirred In the middle,?*
at each end and once between the mid
die and each side ■.'■:. ■■'.. '-■'
A suitable necktie to be worn, with'
shirt waists is made from three-quar
ters of a yard of pink satin ribbon four
and one-half Inches wide, and two-,
yards of Dresden ribbon . four ■ Inches '
wide. The stock portion Is made of the
two kinds of ribbon. The loops of tho
bow are of plain pink and the. * long I
knotted ends of the Dresden.
One and one-half yards of No. 7 white *
satin ribbon will make a: half, dozen .
rosebuds, which, with the addition of ,;
calyxes and leaves, will be pretty In T.
the front of the evening corsage,' or can" V
bo worn In the hair with a white frock"f
EVERY WOMAN
'• interested *nd should '
know about the wonderful
iP§«m MARVEl ' WHIRUNO SPRAY.'
tl^^^KiM / S w ' l »" a "^ MC ' l»"'l »"' B «*t—
W vk^^ Mo! '' Convrnleiit -
Aik y.ur Druiilil lot 11. 7 mWsl^,
If he rmmut *upi>ly the r\j fr'W/is&f r 'W/i$&
M A KV WL, accept no other, butm / ''■Jf
•end stamp for illustiated Uiok— Cy'/Y M <■ •
Mated, it gives full particulars tad "tlteiiJ '. .
diiectlons Tnv»lu»bl« to Udlci. ■ """""•'"*. . .
MARVEL CO, 41 Park Row. NEW YORK.
MMiiwiihiriiaiiaii^Mriii'iiKiliiisMiJsswsßasßUiirMi il
