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4 Evening Gowry Picturesque and Practical IN PREPARATION apparently for an unusually long winter season, for Easter falls late this coming season, there has been an uncommon number of new designs and fashions for evening gowns, so that the range d choice is almost unlimited. A wom an, if she so elects,' may be gowned m some picturesque fashion, may oe moat conventionally attired, may garb herself in satin or velvet, or may wear the flimsiest of lace or tulle and have the delightful consciousness of being quite the fashion. In colors there is also a rich field of choice, and the different shades of the different colors are apparently endless. In embroideries and laces it would also seem as though designers and manu facturers alike had combined to turn out rare and wondrous effects. Hand work, as has so often been said, has reached a degre<e of perfection un known before this winter, while in machine work such results have been obtained as, to make it difficult at first glance for a trained eye to distinguish i the real from the imitation. Colored Satins for Evening Velvets and sating are lighter in weave and texture than formerly, and consequently lend themselves to the rew design much better. Long lines and graceful draperies can be far more easily obtained when the material is of such grade that It can be arranged in accord with the prevailing fashion, which at the moment calls for grace and supple folds. White and light col ored satin gowns are extremely smart, but for the moment the colored Batins are more popular than white, and if the former are used the Ivory ana cream tones are considered more ef fective than the plain or blue white. Skirts of medium length, with pleats at the sides and back, are made up without trimming and show off a fine quality of satin to the best possible advantage, while a much cheaper qual ity of satin cun be made up to better advantage in a skirt with these shaped ilouncs. The draped waist, but al ways with a long point in front, is trw; inoßt popular style, but rather an odrt effect can be obtained by the exagger atedly wide belt or bodice, with a short bolero of satin or luce over It, and slashed at the back to show the boatce. Visit to the Home for Crippled Dolls THE poor little crippled dollies aro not as lucky or as stylish as either the cats and dogs or even the birds. They huve no private hospi tal or boarding house, nor does any kind-hearted society prevent careless, thoughtless children from dropping and breaking the heads and limbs of the poor little dollies. The doll's hospital consists of only one single room, with a wooden operat ing table and n practical, nimble sur geon, who must be a Jack or all trades He Is able to attend to all the unfor tunates brought to this home for crip ples, as the doll'x hospital should be called. Some of the dollies looked as though they had been in war. Others looked Just a* though they had es caped from a burning house. It would really mak« you shudder, were it not such a funny Might, to see all the bruised and broken bodies lying on the operating table, an the doctor laugh ingly said, awaiting surglcul repairs. All the dollies looked fat and heulthy, and, as their rosy cheeks Indicated, they had never been sick before. How strange to see so many cripples! Some dolls were without arms or legs. Some lacked one eye or even both eyes. Home seemed to have been scalped by the Indian* and needed a new wig. Others looked as though their noses and ears had been bitten oft In a hur ry by cannibals. Some had lost their fingers and toes. Probably they hud been frost bitten or perhaps broken off playing baseball or football. One little girl thought her doll was cross-eyed, and begged the doctor to '■vie It or put new eyes in her. dolly's head. Another child wanted a false tooth put in her doll's mouth. Bhe had broken It off forcing her to take a dose of, castor oil. Still another little girl complained her dolly was getting bald which goes almost to the top of the waist. A charmingly picturesque ; model, suitable for an elaborate tea gown or a simple dinner gown. Is copied frorr 1 . an old picture. The Watteau pleat ia more than suggested, although not fully carried out The material of the gown is the palest blue satin, while down the front are lines of pale pink chiffon roses, appliqued on to the ?atin. A full ruffle of lace, so full that it falls like a jabot on either side, brings the parts quite close together over a lace front. The sleeves, in el bow length, finished with wide lace ruffles, are tightfltting, with, however, just a suggestion of fullness at the top, giving rather a higher effect than if there were a sloping shoulder seam. A flowered brocade made after this model, especially If the pompadour colorings and patterns are used, is also most enduring, and, if economy must needs be consulted, is less expensive, for a cheaper quality of brocade Btraw satin looks well, and there need not be the chiffon applique, the lace being an all sufficient trimming. Spangled and pallletted robes. Sure ly it would seem as though the time must have come for them to seem Just a trifle old-fashioned, particularly as the papers are tilled with advertise ments of them, and at such popular prices, but the spangled gown fills a place In the wardrobe that nothing else seems able to, and now there are so many different qualities and color ings, as ■well as patterns, that the va riety demands attention. A nlack net gown with Jet silver, gold or steel paillettes, Is one of the most effective gowns a woman can possess. For the moment the gold spangles or paillettes are tremendously in demand, and consequently are smart. The craze for brown is seen in the differ ent shades of the color with bronze or since the moths had gotten into her hulr, and although she trimmed It reg ularly it would not grow. If the doc tor found it necessary to put on a new wig, the little girl said, she preferred a pretty golden brown just, like her mamma's hulr. A very amusing and interesting sight at the dolls' hospital was the large glass case containing; the artifi cial limbs, eyes, teeth and wigs of ev ery size, color and description. Jleally, the poor little crippled dollies looked Just like new after leaving the skillful hands of the doctor. SPECTACULAR SALADS Should your husbund send word At , 5 o'clock that he Is bringing home one or more guests to dinner, with the aid of v . spectacular salad und a few trilling dainties a very simple home dinner can be made to look and seem more festive. By adding oysters, olivet) and salted almonds to a plain meal and following It \ ith an ornamental salad the af fair at once takes on a look of dis tinction which impresses any male at least. The spectacular salad la one which looks as good as It tastes. Borne of these are made with tomatoes. If any cold vegetables are left over, such as beans, peas, potatoes, carrots, cut potatoes, beans and carrots into tiny balls, till them in empty toma toes, pour over them a very little French dressing. Whip salted cream mixed with chopped chives until stiff and cover the tomatoes with the cream. I A chicken salad can be made to look like a large daisy. Heap the minced chicken on a platter, cover the mound with mayonnaise. Boil five eggs until hard. Cut In eighths and arrange the whites to stimulate tut petal*. LO3 ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY ' SUPPLEMENT. coid spangles, while mauve, blue and green are also to be found, ln any num ber of new and effective patterns. White spangled with silver is not so new, but the designs outlined with the spangles or paillettes are absolutely novel. Yellow with gold Is exquisitely harmonious, and white spangled with gold and put over pleated or yellow chiffon gives a deep champagne which Is most original and striking. RIBBON REIGNS IN FASHIONS FOR GIRDLES, COLLARS AND HAIR BOWS There is not a great variety 1 of de slgnvin the making up of spangled gowns, or robes, as they are called. The most expensive have ruffles or flounces, the cheaper ones are much simpler — on the pattern and the span gles, or paillettes depends the price, for the quality Is very much the same In all. The machine ' made, heresy though it be to admit it, have the dis agreeable property of. going to pieces; if one or more spangles are ripped or torn the others as a rule follow suit, while the hand sewed gowns— said to be—last much longer, so far as the spangles are concerned. All spangled gowns must be made i:p over chiffon or tulle and on silk or satin foundation, and although It seems at first glance as though It would be by no means difficult to RIBBONS of rich hues and except tlonully beautiful (It-signs tlila seaason tempt women to inuke ribbon outfits to go with all manner of costumes for ' all kinds of occasions. The touch of ribbon appeals to old un<4 mnke up one of these pattern robes th« proposition is by no means a sim ple one. The waist and skirt of sill: or satin must be carefully fitted, the skirt must be full enough— then must come the gathered, shirred or accord lon pleated chiffon skirt and chiffon rovering the waist, and finally the robe itself must be most carefully hung, so as to secure the deslde "flare and yet not cut too full around the hips, for the net of which these gowns is made is apt to be rather harsh in texture and does not fall gracefully into pleats or gathers. . The color scheme can be gone into tremendously, for the color of the lin ing will work a perfect transformation of the spangled net. A most effective form of black net spangled in gold is caught up over pale yellow; and the coloring is exquisite, for the » n >nß seems to bring out and intensify the brightness of the gold. The same form young. The girl revels In ribbons— they set off her hulr and gown to perfection — and ehe who hus long- passed the freshness of of girlhood seeks to soften hard lines and freshen faded beauty by the innocent artifice of the dulnty rib bon bow. Ribbon, If properly used, lends grace to new frocks and revives garments that have grown pause.' For aeverul years the generous use of ribbons has been on the increase, and this season marks the high water mark of their popularity. The shaded rib bons, the pompadour effects, the won derful combinations <at color, make them irresistible. These new ribbons lend themsplves admirably to the ma nipulation of skillful linger*, and she who can form them Into modish effects may save many v dollar, for the made up ribbon novelties in the shops are very expensive. In selecting ribbons for girdles care must be taken to- have them soft enough to shirr well, yet with enough over Mark i« entirely different In "«f> feet, to different it 18 hard to realize 1* Is the sam<>. A Riot of Lace and Embroideries Thrre is 'great danger of over-olnb* oration In the fns'nlonn for this winter, for fnncy hn« quite r ,i n riot In tM matter of lure nnrl rnlbrolderles. A satin gown In often bo hidden by tho embroidered lace with' which -It' Is trimmed that very little of the mate rial shown. The bertha of lac*, nlco embroidered nnd Rvnerally »pangl<*<V quite hides the tipppr part of the waist, nnd If only a Rlimpne of the rich belt or bodice Is Oioclosed that In consid ered quite fltifllclent. The faahlon In n boon to the woman who finds It requla* Ite to-rnnke over her last year's ward robe, or no few yards of the material need show, and under the rich flounce* of embroidered lace a multitude of sins may bo hidden. At the name time the woman who loves beautiful clothes and can have them had now an oppor tunity to be well ciK'SK-d according to her most luxurious Ideas, for the very feet that throughout the entire gowns are URed only the newest and most ex pensive of fabrics Is most satisfactory. Embroidered lace is one of fashion's most expensive fad*, and such strange schemes as using medallions of hand painted or embroidered chiffon in real lcce la extremely fashionable. The coloring of the painting or embroidery must nlways be light— green and blue, pink nnd green — the tiniest of plume* and the finest of flowers. Most ex quisite to examine Is such work, al though again It must be admitted that Its beauty does not appeal Instantly to the casual observer. On the paleHt pink, blue, green or white satin green trimming of this description Is .in keeping, and, after all, the question of dress is a serious one in these days, nnd It behooveth every woman to per fect herself In the art thereof so that she can tell at a glance the real from tho falre. The hand painted chiffons used for entire gowna or In flounces uhow.al ways a much bolder treatment as 'to dress, larger flowers nnd a deeper color throughout, while the embroidered Inces have al*o r bolder treatment, the flowers of chiffon or silk embroidery, being on a larger order and the colors deeper. Embroideries to Match Lining . Another curious fashion is to b» noted In the design of the embroidery being quite different from that of the lace on which It I* worked. A pattern of a trailing rose vine or a wistaria In the delicate purple shades has nothing whatever to do with the designs of the lf.ee on which It U worked, and yet oddly- enough the two designs do . not [conflict as might be supposed, but ap-. parently each but accentuates the other: the colors in the embroidery Standing out in strong relief* from the flat surface of the lace, while the de sign of the lace shows most clearly underneath. A charming fancy illus trating what an Important part- color plays in this year's fashions shows It self In the color of the lining over which thin gowns are made being re peated in the embroidery; Then with girdle and a touch of color on the waist of the deepest possible shade in connection with the color of the em broidery the effect ia most original.: Only be it noted that there should be a touch of the same deep color used in a flower or knot or , ribbon • in the hair, otherwise the gowns will not be nearly so beoomlng. ■ . "■ ' To go back to the Jet embroidered and pailletted gowns' being so. -useful- There can be endless changes wrought by the colors introduced in belt or in the trimming on the waist. A cluster of pink roses on the shoulder,, ot orchids, or in i truth of any flower and the gown looks utterly different, while the colored- bodices, if becoming, will again furnish quite an innovation. Detail, detail, always detail Is j more requisite than ever to the finish of the modern smart gown. Flowers, rib bons, stockings, shoes, not to mention hair ornaments, must one and all 1 be carefully chosen, and must be exactly right to give that finished smart effect that fashion demands of her followers. Now* however, is the opportunity for the clever woman to prove herself clever, and for the woman blessed with good taste in dress to exhibit her tal ent She, with a capital S, will choose only what Is becoming, and will study her own especial color scheme, and the end will Justify the means. body to keep them from getting stringy. ' Flowers may be combined effectively' with ribbon. A violet girdle, for in stance, made of shaded violet ribbon. I with a garniture of artificial violets, is exceedingly pretty. To make it, one' and one-eighth yards of violet, corded • ribbon, about six inches wide, ; and, the . same amount • of satin ribbon of: the same shade, about seven inches wide, : are needed. . The ends on the back of ■ the girdle are made of two shades of No. 7 velvet ribbon, trimmed ! with shaded velvet violets. As many rows of violets may be used to decorate the girdle as are desired, they being placed in rows at regular intervals. In the new melon shades there are ' splendid possibilities for pretty ribbon trimmings. A rich girdle can be made . with ten yards of five inch soft silk . ribbon and three and one-third . yardi '" of the three new shades of melon. This is pretty made up with a double^row of shirring in front and three rows on ' each side. The back may be finished with soft loops or bows. An effective girdle, the Dolly Varden/ requires two and one-quarter yards o£ ; ' plain pink satin ribbon. The same ' amount of pink and white Dresden rib-; bon and twenty yards each of • pinlc wash' ribbon one-half inch wide and' of white . wash ribbon ' one-half .-Inch .. wide. The wide ribbons are used for., the girdle proper and are shirred per- ■ pendlcularly at regular intervals. 'The" narrow ribbons 'form long ends', for loops attached by green calyxes used in making artificial flowers. , A neck stock is similarly made, re quiring flve-elghthß of a yard of soft :, white taffeta five Inches wide, .with 'a band of one-Inch Dresden as a finish^ at the top. It Is shirred In the middle,?* at each end and once between the mid die and each side ■.'■:. ■■'.. '-■' A suitable necktie to be worn, with' shirt waists is made from three-quar ters of a yard of pink satin ribbon four and one-half Inches wide, and two-, yards of Dresden ribbon . four ■ Inches ' wide. The stock portion Is made of the two kinds of ribbon. The loops of tho bow are of plain pink and the. * long I knotted ends of the Dresden. One and one-half yards of No. 7 white * satin ribbon will make a: half, dozen . rosebuds, which, with the addition of ,; calyxes and leaves, will be pretty In T. the front of the evening corsage,' or can" V bo worn In the hair with a white frock"f EVERY WOMAN '• interested *nd should ' know about the wonderful iP§«m MARVEl ' WHIRUNO SPRAY.' tl^^^KiM / S w ' l »" a "^ MC ' l»"'l »"' B «*t— W vk^^ Mo! '' Convrnleiit - Aik y.ur Druiilil lot 11. 7 mWsl^, If he rmmut *upi>ly the r\j fr'W/is&f r 'W/i$& M A KV WL, accept no other, butm / ''■Jf •end stamp for illustiated Uiok— Cy'/Y M <■ • Mated, it gives full particulars tad "tlteiiJ '. . diiectlons Tnv»lu»bl« to Udlci. ■ """""•'"*. . . MARVEL CO, 41 Park Row. NEW YORK. MMiiwiihiriiaiiaii^Mriii'iiKiliiisMiJsswsßasßUiirMi il