Newspaper Page Text
14
THE MOKmETGr TIMES,; SUNDAY, MAUCH 14, 1897
Late News for the
lAomein of Fashion
"Those daughters who sIioav a propen
sity for making pretty, fancy tilings Tor
their own adornment tire loo often met
witli ridicule on the part of other less
gifted members of the family. There is
nothing to which the aveiage -woman
Is .inure .sensitive than criticism Of Per
clothes, and many times she defer to the
tastes of ot liens when sh -would he much
better dressed hy following out lier own
Ideas as to what is becoming to her. No
woman can study another's figure as that
person can do it for herself, and it is
neithei vain nor foolish to give time and
attention to such matteis. No one "Would
Cilnk or ciiticiMng a housewife for doing
nil she cm to make her home beautiful,
tuid as from somebody h point of view she
It. or ought to be, the most beautiful adorn
ment in it, she-. will not make a mistake in
giving as much attention to herself as to
anything cine.
In moderation, therefore, it should be a
part of every girl's bringing-up to learn
H'w to make herself look as pretty as ps
Mble. Instead or sjK-nding time on elalH
orat fancy work, it -would be much plcns
anter and more profitable to occupy one's
tipaie moments in fashioning pretty things
for the cotnin'j season.
For the -benefit or lhoe who d not
have time to go about and see-what coh
tmiif nitists are exhibiting as fashion
able a few suggestions aie given below.
Two yards of inch-wide insertion, one
yard of fine nainsook, and two raids of
:ibrilei y ivlll make one of the prettiest
unveltii-s of the season as well ah one of
the mint uef ultriiumiugs for irlam bodices.
The nainsook is laid in fine tucks in strips
of iitoui two incites in width, which are
alternated Avith strips of iiubmidery inser
tion The wltnle is then formed into .t
sort of yoke, tltttt pen in the Iwck and
reaches to n hue jM. uefc-w the Intst. The
strips rfi horlcuntRlly mcios tiie bodice
and tin whole is edged all ;in.nnd with em
lnolilcry A oottarisfonitedoftMcinticrUofi
vith itn ntHnjiilery hnfatfittg It should st
perfectly smooth across Uie carrttpe, and
may be tufcle to do so by rraled Uyingt.
'a ami altering After one has Im-ch utmlc
It will round very easy to umke ;notlier,
and by vttryiiig the materials n entirely
new f fret iuny be produc ed. Hoch au
3itU-l- ms Uds I often x luore acceptable
present to an Intimate friend thitii a fancy
piacushirm Uit might coat mnn. A pretty
rmt.iH!tUoH Tor very dressy yoke is black
velvet ribbon ami white Valenciennes inser
tion, with n luce edge ail around ami some
lo.ip-1 of velvet ribbon standing out under
the eirs and at the back of the neck in
that popular fashion.
, Instead of tiHAing the htrijies run across
the bodice they iuhv be made to nmleiigth
wise from the lower edge in front to thatof
the back, and this will be found even easier
th.m the other to make. t
Tlie yoke just described is somewhat
newer than the bolero, but will not be so
generally worn, because it is not so adapt
able to nil sorts of gowns as is the latter
fancy. The bolero shape cm be applied to
anv garment, from a street jacket to an
evening dress. It may be made of plain
in.iienal, or of the trimming used on the
dress. It is generally prefeied to shape
the trimming into a bolero. Por cloth
dre-'scs this is done with the endless va
rieties of gimp braid which flood the mar
ket this year.
Thin dresses trimmed with lace havelace
bolers, and it is with these that we are
mure particularly concerned. It is better
to have the bolero trimming made sep
artae so that it can be changed from one
dresi to another Nothing could be easier
irian the manufacture oT this style of trim
ming. A piece of net is needed for a foundation
for each hnlf. Itsliould liecutmthe desired
shape from a paper pattern previously cut
anil trimmed to a becoming curve. The'
curve of such a jacket is the all-important
feature, as upon it depends whether
the wearer look stout or slim,
lanky or dumpy It can only he determined
by repeated trials backed by good judg
ment, Imtonce fiunil It should be adhered
to in every garment upon which such trim
ming is used. The net foundation having
been shaped, it only remains to gather the
lace and sew it first a round the front edge,
then another row back of that, and so on
until the arm-hole is reached. It is only
necessary that these jacket pieces appear
on the front, reaching from shoulder to
under-arm seams, but a continuation in the
form of a pointed yoke or plastron in the
back is often very pretty. Different widths
of lace may be used, evenan inch not being
considered too wide, but the half-inch yel
low Valenciennes is the daintiest, although
It takes longer to fill up the space. Such
trimming as tills will serve for organdies,
dimities, dotted Swiss, or any light and
dainty summer material.
As applied to evening waists the bolero
iriinming is found exceedingly useful in
bringing old gowns up to date To fill in a
Plain and rigured cashmere gown.
lame cashmere embroidered. The sleeves
vest Is also embroidered. Yoke, neckband
decolletagethatis too lowonthe shoulders,
nothingis better than this effect in guipure
or duchess lace. In this case the bolero Is
Miaped exactly both back and front and
curves nicely under the arm to fit the
figure. The width of the trimming should
not exceed three or four inches. Lace
epaulets eontinuedovcrthesinall puffs make
a nice finish for the lace jacket. The
bodice underneath is usually shined some
what full, and a pointed girdle is found to
harmonize best with the trimming just
described.
So popular is the combination of bolero
and pointed girdle that jeweled and gold
embroidered sets are made up separately
as elaborate trimming for elegant dresses.
Pearls appear more often than other gems
in such connection. Sometimes a yoke
is added to these sets to give that flat
effect just below the collar which Is 60
characteristic oT incoming styles.
Indeed, the general tendency seems to be
toward applique trimmings and drooping
draperies. In accoidance with this fash
ion, a pretty neck finish for a cloth diess
is a cream lace yoke and collar The joke
need not be very deep in fact it should not
reach the shoulder.' and it is pi city when
laid over the outside, with its scalloprd
edge as a finish. A fetching gown with
thisiort of yoke has the fiont of tl.e Lodice
draped to the left side with considerable
fullness of material and fastened with
oval buckles. Trom the lower edge or the
sleeve puffs a pUce of lace is appliqued on
theclo'-e-fii ting sleeve to a point just below
the elbow. The sleeves aie slashed in
s-piaretabs at the wrist with a quilling.of
lace over the hand. Tieces of lace are ap
pliqued aionnd the hips in ban el style.
Tiu dress worn with a round hat trimmed
In bunches of roses will make a very at
tiactive spring costume.
The fichu has not left us, by anj means,
though it is somewhat in the background
with so many new fancies before the eye.
A pretty one in two tones is made of yel
low chiffon with a wide white lace Tlounco.
A house dress that suggests the fichu
style has a full pointed yoke and soft collar
of white mousscline. The point is border
ed with velvet, and this in turn with a
wreath of violets from which falls a nar
row double flounce. The bodice crosses to
the left side and is fastened with f rog3 of
The waist has a simulated bolero of the
correspond, and the lower part of tho
and waist drapery of pale green satin.
gimp and fancy buttons. There is a belt
of gimp with just a suggestion of the same
trimming on the skirt.
Bows of various sizes and styles are often
set on at the shoulders of evening dresses-.
One dress of soft mousscline, with a
flounce around Its square neck, has a big,
soft bow at the left side, with a spray of
flowers running back from it over the left
shoulder.
Accordion pleated skirts for evening wear
are the compromise between the flaring
rikirts of last year and the clinging draper
ies that have started on their westward
journey, but have not yot got beyond the
boundaries of France. Trained skirts arc
coming, too; we have seen them on the
stage, but they haven't reachedthe street or
the ballroom.
Accordion pleats have reached their
crowning glory at the top of the new para
sols called ''sunbursts." "Without doubt,
these Avill be the favorite sunahades of the
coming summer girl. There never was any
thing liko them. One done in rose colored
mousseline looks like a great big flower
perched on its long, slender stem. Most
of them are made with a plain silk founda
tion and a pleating of mousseline or soft
silk on top. Sometimes the mousseline Is
also placed on the under olde, thus greatly
heightening the flower-llkc effect, as the
foundation is socompletely veiled thatonly
the rosy color shines through. At fir&t
thought it would seem an easy matter to
coer last year's plain sunshade with a
veiling of pleated mousseline, and thus
have a parasol in the height of fashion for
one examines the shape, which is as near
flat ns it can possibly be made. It very
much resembles the Japanese paper um
brellas so frequently used in decoration.
In the millinery world new hats are being
brought out every day, an dsome of the"cro
atlons" are very ccceatric. One sees a great
many soft straw plaques puckered up into
unrecognizable bunches that suggest Tain-o'-Shanters
more than anything else, but go
a-tiltiug up on the leftside so far that they
bear a remarkable resemblance to thattipsy
individual from whom they deiive their
namo.
Tiny straw bonnets that perch on the
very top of the head are trimmed with
bunches of pansies and other flowers and
ti'- underneath the chin with velvet or
satin ribbons. They will be popular with
tall girls oT the willowy type.
ANNIE LAURIE WOODS.
THE HOBARTS AND SOCIETY
I learn that the Hobarts intend living
very quietly in Washington. In fact,
they will not even take a house, but a
6uitc of rooms at some hotel; so there is
little danger of the memories of the
charming and lavish hospitality display
ed by the Mortons, while in office, being
even partially effaced for some time to
conic, Just as they had had no precedent
m the list of former Vice Presidents. On
the whole, the social brilliancy of the ad
ministration seems rather questionable, in
view of Mrs. McKinley's delicate health,
and tl.e fact that the Hobarts are still
in deep n ourning for their only daughter, a
most lovely girl, whose sudden death at the
age of eigiitcen, occurred some two years
ago at Bellaggio, Italy. Mrs. Hobai t is an
uncommonly sAveet and ref In ed Avoman, Avlth
no aspirations to fasliionableness and little
patience with the fads and extremes of
society. Aside from her great grief, Avhich
she often declares robs her at times of
all pleasure in her husband's success,
she is much harassed by the extreme
delicacy of her only lemaining child,
"Garrett, Jr.," noAV of already consider
able newspaper fame, and who threatens
to figure as the "Baby McKee" or "Little
Kuth" of the next four years; so that it is
to be feared that she Avill neither desire
nor be able to participate very actiA'ely
in any large functions.
Mr. Tlobart is a cheery, joA'ial man, al
ways A-cry popular, and of late even more
so, on account of his free-and-easy demo
cratic friendliness, general accessibility
and lack of uppishness, the faintest sus
picion of which latter attribute would
have been" immediately spotted by his
Jersey constituents, apd Avould haA-e turned
the tide of popular esteem to the most bitter
hatred. Far from alloAVing his elevation
to the post of "second gentleman in the
laud," to impart any trace of haughtl
nesa to his manners, his "Jeffersonian
simplicity" has, as I haA-e hinted, beconfe
so pronounced since his election that the
Vice President of the "United States is to
bo met with any day, at various corner
shops in his native toAvn, buying small
household stores arid proA'isions, Avhich
he carried home in neat and attractive
paper parcels. All this has endeared him
to such an extent to his sturdy, simple
hearted Jersey felloAV-citizens, that I
hear predictions are already not Avanting
to the effect that the next .Republican
Presidential candidate "will he none other
than "Our Garry." Town Topics.
I Wedding; Cake Customs
Gorman In Origin, But Mudo
j Popular by the Queen jg
j of England, cjj
Sixty-one years ago. Chester was en fete,
and the loyai citizens of the beautiOU old
city on the Dee were musteringto welcome
the Duchess of Kent and her young daugh
ter", Princess Victoria, for the latter had.
graciously coiifc'cntcd to declare open the
new bridge connecting the town with the
then Marquis of Westminster's splendid
country house, Eaton Hall. Some of the
SOM13 JfJEW TEMlXIXEADOnNMlOfTS.
older citizens of .the toAvn can well remem
ber the enlhtihiii'sm caused by the presence
of England's future queen lf.and" among
those avIio testified their loyalt In a very
practical manner aviik Richard liolland.the
founder of a firm Avhich is iioav known
Avherever the English language is spoken.
He presented the little princess with a
small Lox of cakes, and evidently her ma
jesty has preseiA'ed a pleasant lecoliection
of the famous establishment in Eastgate
Row, for on her accession, in lS.VT.Mr. Bol
land Avas one of the eaiilest apiwmted of
the queen's Avarrant-holders, and tAventy
fiA'e yeais later the members ot the historic
film Avcie pleasantly Surprised AA'ith her
majesty's express command to make the
Prince and Piincess of Wales' wedding
cake. Since that time Messrs. EoIInud &
Son have fully earned the title bestowed
on them by the late G. A. Sala, of "Ilis
toirc biide cake makers to the royal
family."
How few British brides realize that they
oavc one of the pleitsantest customs con
nected with modem wedding ceremonies to
the late prince consort and to Queen Vic
toria's close family ties Avith Germany.
Thereisno mention of either bride or birth
day cakes in old English folklore; but the
custom, though introduced fiom Germany,
became modi lied to suit English taste, and
what we iioav knoiv as Avedding cake is a
thoroughly British production. Indeed, the
recipe from which Chester wedding cake is
still made Is over a bundled years old, and
Is kept a profound secret, only one, the best,
quality being made. It may be assumed
that the usual Ingredients butter, sugar,
mixed peels, flour, dried cherries, almonds,
spice, and last, but not least, champagne-brandy--play
a considerable part in the
mixture.
The baking takes place once or trwicc a
Aveek in a huge oven, itself the size of a
small kitchen, and each cake is baked
much in the shape in which it will flnally
appcar on a wedding breakfast table. This
result is achieved by the pouring of the
mixture into round tins, each containii g
seA-en, firtcen, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty
or sixty pounds' weight. The actual pro
cess of baking lasts from five to seA-en
hQurs, and at this stage, when the tins are
turned out in the cakeroom, each cake re
sembles nothing so much as one of the cele
brated Cheshire cheeses. No cake is sent
out until it has matured for at least six
months, and the demand is of such anex
tensiA'e character that a stock of oA'er
2,000 pounds is alAvays kept in the season
ing room. SilA-er and golden wedding cakes
are also a specialty of the house, aud
those, as is natural, are generally orna
mented Avitli gold or silA-er ornaments, as
the case may be, and on the two crossban
ners are inscilboll the original date and an
niversary of the wedding. In more than
one instance the Messrs. Bolland have been
asked to keep rtioijtion of a wedding cake
safely stowed "dway till the twenty-firth
nnnlA'ersary comes jaround again, and then
-the slice of thl .original wedding cake is
proudly brought pit for the occasion.
A great denffof Jsuntiment attaches to
bi ide cakes, and Avlien an engagement
takes place between English-speaking folk
in Australia, in ifrca, India, to say noth
ing of the South Sea Islands aud many
another far-aAvqy cprner of Great Britain,
the bride-elect generally decides to send
"home" for herfAveddlug cake. And when
a long over-seajjourney is in question the
precious object: Iscarefully packed in a
tin-lined, air-tightcase..
As may easily be imagined by any c-f
those Avho luiA-e had to conduct the arrange
ments for even a quiet Avedding-breakfast,
Aveddingcakeis notonlyan cxpenslA-c, but
also a very-weighty commodity. A very
ordinary bridal cake for a large party will
TA'eigh at least fifty pounds, and some
times a three-tier cake that is trt say one
made up of three separate parts, Aveighing
sixty, forty, and tAyenty pounds each
wilibe only-just sufficient for a bigcountry
Avedding, Avjiere maybe the. tenantry of
the bride's father, as well as the whole,
neighborhood, are expected to share in
the rejoicings,
A Aveddingdoylsoncof the few occasions
on Avhich appearances play quite as great
a part as realities, and an attempt is al
Avays made to make tho decorations on the
cakoln some Avay symbolize the rank, favor
ite occupation or profession of both tho
happy pair. When Lord Brasscy's daughter
was married a perfect model of her father's
yacht, the famous Sunbeam, surmounted
her cake. Perhaps the most original order
of the kind ever given to the Messrs. Hol
land was that of a happy couple who in
sisted on cycling being introduced in some
way or another into their cake. And, as
will be seen in the case of royal bride cakes,
crests, coats of arms and family mottoes
often play a very important part; and then,
again, a bride-elect's name, Violet, Rose,
Lily, Daisy and soon will suggest a scheme
of decoration.
Quite lately a very original cake was sent
out from Eastgate row. All the decorations,
molded in white sugar, recalled "Darkest
Africa," sturdy looking lions lying in am
bush under palm trees, probably recalling
to the bridegroom many a hairbreadth es
cape and terrible adventure.
In old days it was the bridesmaids duty,
after the bride had departed for her wed
ding tour, to cut up Avhat remained of the
Avedding cake and do it up in small boxes
and send it aAvay. Now it is more usual to
send a list of addresses to the firm which
supplies the cake, and this branch has de
A'cloped to be not the least important
branch of the famous Chester confection
er's business, for In some cases as many as
a thousand half-pound packets or wedges
are directed and sent out from Eastgate
row. Each wedgels tied up in a little card
board box, and inclosed AvitU it is a tiny
sprig of orange blossom aud the bride aud
bridegroom's cards, The cards accompa
nying the Avedding cake .M.-at out by royal
brides arc of a severely plaiu character,
and in the latest or the royal AveddingMjore
the folIoAving inscription in silver letter
ing: "By command of her majesty the
queen, from Prince and Princess Cliarles of
Denmark." '
The Prince and Piincess or Wales' Aved
dingcake. cut March 10, 1EG3, consisted of
three tiers, round the base ran the symbolic
flOAvers of the United Kingdom the rose,
the thistle and the shnmiock wreaths of
which were entwined Avith Use loyalarms
of England and Denmark. Seraphs Avith
harps seemed to be chanting an epithalam
iuin to the happy pair, and on the satin
f lagsAvere exquisitely painted miniatures of
bride and gioom. From the orange blos
iGms and silver leave that surmounted the
top tier rote the coronet and a plume of
Prince of Wales' featheis. This cake, the
first of a long sei ies of royal wedding cakes
supplied by Messrs. Bolland, stood nearly
Tia'c feet high, and was broad in proportion,
for in those days the fashion of Icftj , slen
der wedding cakes was quite unknoAvn.
A very strange adventure befell the Duke
and Duchess of York's Avedding cake.
After having played Its important role on
the queen's luncheon table at Buckingham
palace, Messrs. Holland's two represen
tatives Avcre Just leaA-ing the palace when
they Avcre informed that as soon us the
Avedding party had dispersed, the cake
mustfbe removed to Marlborough house. In
order to occupy the place of honor during
the state dinner party to" be held that even
ing by the Prince and Princess of Wales.
vThe distance separating the tAVo royal
residences is little more than a quarter of
a mile, but the Avide Mall between St.
James' palace and the park avus filled with
a dense croAvd of sightseers, Avhilc, of
course, all traffic Avas suspended, and not
a single A-ehicle remained In the Bucking
ham palace stables. Finally, with the help
of the police, two four-wheeled cabs Avcre
procured through one of the back gates,
and the royal cake, Avhich had been most
carefully taken to pieces and packed, Avas
loaded in its separate sections on to the
roofs of the humble "groAvlcrs." At less
than a foot" pace they advanced with their
precious burden through the surglng.though
good-natured croAvd. At last Marlborough
house Avas reached, andthePrince of Wales
himself came in and Avitnesscd the building
up of the cake, which Avas placed before a
looking glass, so that its glories should be
displayed to advantage. Woman at Home.
A Servant Worth Unvlng.
A lady had issued invitations for a party
of twelve and on the morning of the ap
pointed day, when conferring AAith the
footman, she discovered that one of the
tAvelve silver shells In Avhich scalloped
oystcre were to be served had been mls
pluced. Rigid search for the missing ar
ticle having proved unavailing the lady
decided that sooner than give up that par
ticular course sho Avould simply decline
oysters Avhcn they were, handed to her, and
so cleAen shells would be sufficient. It
happened that when the oysters Avcre
sen-cd at dinner the hostess Avas engaged
in a A-ery animated conversation wiUi one
or two of her neighbors, and, forgetting
her determination, took one of the shells
ot the oysterd and set it before herself. If
the servant's heart fell jn consternation at
this lie gave no external sign of it, but,
speaking in tones distinct, though low,
said, respectfully: "Excuse me, madam,
bub you said I Avas to remind you that
the doctor forbade your eating oysters.'
San Francisco Argonaut.
'Tho railways wilL never be of any use
for tho transport of goods," said M.
Thiers, and he led a large chorus.
wm
Styles for tie Bicycle Girl
It is an unquestioned Tact, and there Is
no use trying to deny it, that bloomers are
never seen on smartly dressed women.
Indeed, society of various degrees considers
them bad form. "Why, even In Paris they
are begiuningto taboo them, and are adopt
ing the short skirt. Yes, they are really
superior to tights, and most of us think
who wear them in that way that they are
better than knickerbockers. There are more
designs for bicycle costumes than would
fill the biggest box that anybody ever
thought of. The best way to express the
idea is to say that there have been just
as many improA'cments in bicycle costumes
for Avomen as there have bcenin the wheela
themselves.
It has bcenthe lot of a choaenfeAV to take
a peep at Avhat will be considered thesmart
bicycle costumes for 1S97, spring and
summer. One of the hmartest or these
s'yles is an almost circular skirt, Avhich
fits tightly the hip and the stomach. Let
the slight rider remember that in this cos
tume there should be no fullness Avhatever,
not even at Uie back. For the stout wo
man, hoAACver. it is different. She should
haA-e tAvo 6ide plaits, and these should be
laid in a box -plait underneath. In this
instance the fntkiess begins Just beloAV
thc hips, and tbHs there is around the hem
of the skirt all the Avidth required, and
enough flHre to stand out Avell. It it is
three and a half yard's AVlde that will be
plenty. As excellent a cloth as can be
found for this purpose is the heaA-y double
faced textile of the sort Avhich has been
A-ery popular for goir capes. The chief
lcauty of these is that they do not require
a lining, but it must be admitted that somt
of the tailors put on as facing a straight
band ot the same material. Others have a
facing of a circular band cut in one piece.
This is fitted Avith absolute precision about
the bottom ot the skirt
As to the arrangement of the front, there
isample opportunity for variety. Theopen
ing is, naturally, on either side of the front
breadth This is narrow at the top, flaring
at the foot, or almost the same size all the
way doAvn. This when the skirt is cut
circular. The Avaists to some of the bicycle
costumes are made along the line of the
riding habit coat. The basque extends
slightly lelOAv the waist. The sleeves
.ire small. The waists open to the throat
Avith narrow revcrs, these latter to sIioav the
mannish style of neckwear o much culti
Braided bicycle govn. The bodice 13 bialded to simulate a bolero. The clos
ing is doAvn the center of the front, or if preferred on the left shoulder. The
circular bell skirt has five rows ot braid ut the bottom. Knickerbockers to corre
spond should bo worn.
),l3&t
55.
tqgF
vated by the bicycle girl. The skirt may
be, with this costume, whatever the rider
desires. A very pretty costume Is a skirt
of plaid and a waist of -dark plain cloth.
The hat tliat goes with this costume should
be made of material similar to Uie skirt,
or alpine shape, heavily stitched. Cheviot
and covert cloths are popular, and the color
ings from which to choose arc almost In
numerable. The latest things in tailor-built dresset
are by far the most suitable for wear in
the early spring. This does not refer to
bicycle costumes, but to thos gowns with
which we strive to make ourselves beau
tiful at times other than those which rind
us awheel. It is A-ery noticeable that braid
ing, Avhich came into vogue so strongly lust
year, is equally a favorite this season, or
rather promises to be for the coming sea
son. Many of the newest things are elab
orately omnmeated after this fashion. To
the posessor of a good figure a braided
costume Is exceedingly becoming, and it
gives a skilful tailor every oppertunity to
emphasise the points of excellence and slur
OA'er those which are less desirable.
One of the newest ideas is to have tho
backs of tailor-built bodices braided. They
must fit the figure tightly and the rront
should be loose from the bust to slightly
below the waist. The particular advan
tage of thi3 costume lies in the fact that
it Is equally becoming to the Avoman who
is tall and her compeer who is short. One
of these costumes, prepared by a celebrated
ladies' tailor, is a dark blue gray rough,
surface tweed, flecked with orange, and
having a pretty twill in it. The skirt ia
perfectly cut, fitting tightly over the hlpa
and with fullness at the hem, though abso
lutely neat and tidy in front and at either
side.
This is contrived by means of two
cleverly set plaits at the back; and a further
new idea is exemplified by three rows
or raucy braiding around the top ot the
skirt at intervals below the waist. The
dcsigni3quitefIatandtheeffectbecomingto
the figure. The back of the bodice, which
fits perfectly, is braided in slnulor lines,
the test forming a girdle at the waist.
In rroattltereis a shaped flap, al&o braided
and line with pale blue silk, which falls
looely, hut not Avith any fullness to the
Avalstor a couple of inches below it- The
collar is braided and so are the cuffs.
The sHinc idea is being carried out in
smart little spring coats in various ways.
One of these is ot black velvet, th back
wrought with lines of jet, and the sleeves
to correspond. The loose front, which
in this case is a litUe lull, is 8t white
mirior moire embroidered with Jet and
silver. The sleeves are finished with nar
roAv turned-back cutts of white mirror
moire, similarly embroidered, and under
the rolled back collar of velvet, faced with
moire and finished to correspond, there is
a carelessly-knotted handkerchief in ft
bright red and gold Paisley design, which
gives a charming and coquetUsh touon
of color to the Avhole-
We are going back to the old style of
hair dressing. The fervor the professional
hair dresser ha developed for the antique
is simply amazing, and there is every prob
ability that the same adjective applies to
the coiffures that are likely to result. We
are In fact, to have a Victorian style of
hair dressing. The hair is to be arranged
high on the top of the back of the head
in a kind of pinuaele-sliaped erection, whilo
the front will be ihvuieil down the center,,
drawn loosely behiud the ears, then up again
and mingled with that at the top. where
miniature curls will be arranged over the
forehead. The side nair and back will bo
b these peculiar methods of dressing
the hair there comes at least a slight alle
viation in the form of ornaments. The
most notable of these is an aigrette of
black ostrich tips- If your pocketSook
Avill warrant it, then this aigrette should
rise from a base of diamonds- Rhinestones,
however, are very effective, and. in fact,
rlunestones are likely to be the vogue
rather than diamonds. A pink rose make
a pretty foundation, also.
Black reathers are worn by choice in
dark hair. Of course, they are much more
efTective when worn by n blonde, but at
no time Is the style or charm greater than
when the hair of the Avearer is white
Feathers are helping the short woman,
too, for the ladles Avho lack in inches can
wear either a high, thick, black osprey or
a thinner one. rising from a foundaUon
or ostrich tips.
One of the most surprising featnres of the
season that is just openimr is tteat thu
woolen dress seems to be yielding generally
to silk. Even where wool is worn the ap
pearance of silk is carried out by a com
bination or material on the front of bodice
and sleeves. And speaking of bodices, the
most charming velvets have been brought
out Tor that purpose, consisting ot stripes
or velvet alternating with a brocade of
small roses. The quaint pieces of old bro
cade of almost any kind or shape in ap
plique on the fronts of the silk eedices
outlined with handsome galons are in great
favor. ETINCIELLEL
S
