Newspaper Page Text
14
THE MOKNINGf TIMES, SUNDAY, APRIL 11, 1897.
Now It Is Picture Dressing
A New and Novel Method of Robing Maid and
Matron in Costumes That Are
Really Unique.
8H!
New York, April 10. A bright mind
hab evolved a new idea, which promises
to become very popular, and deservedly so
It Is callea picture dressing, and is the re
sult oC careful studies, made by modistes of
portraits of women painted by famous
artistb. There is no particular btyle that
governs this newest method of selecting
costumes, except the individuality or .the
person who is to wear what is sought-
The effect is invariably successful. A
recent instance or this was the cae of u
very graceful young woman, who wore a
dress copied rroin one seen in a painting,
by Sir Joshua Reynolds This dress was
in veiled luce, and boasted or a train
cleverly disposed like a regal mantle of
red velvet, a deep Venetian loyal red, that
matched the liquid light of rubies. One
verv pleasant reatuie of this idea is that
it enables the use of costumes wbrn ever
so long ago, and which the owners had
possibly .believed to be eo thoroughly out
of stvle that it would be hopeless to try
to utilise them. It Is a fact that any
stile, if it is only a picture dress, will
do, always provided it is becoming, and
lias resulted in many a fashionable wo
man saving halt her usual wardrobe ex
penses. There is notliing difficult about follow
ing this fashion. All that one need to do
is to visit the portrait section of sonic art
galleiy and there find the picture of some
lady of loag ago robed m a fashion which
will be truly becoming to the visitor.
Then she can say when she dons her new
gown, even though it be an old one fixed
over, that she had it made alter the
style of the dress worn by oueot the ladies
whom Sir Joshua Reynolds had painted,
or that it was an exact copy of the attire
of a Gainsborough beauty Certainly it
iB a very clever fad, and as this is the
season of economy, or rather the year of
it, every woman should hall theidea with
extreme satisfaction.
It look-, moie and more as if embroidery
was going to play a more important part
than ever in evening dress. Plain skirts
will surely look conspicuous. The em
broidery is filling up the hiatus between
the absence of any trimming at all and
draped and trimmed skirts which are
coming our way, slowly it may be, but
surely The effect of these long lines of
fine work in velvet outlined with silver,
crystal and brilliants up the seams, is
excellent. It gives height to the figure
and importance to theskiit, a part of our
dress which, duung the epoch of voluminous
sleeves, was somewhat neglected, save
only bo far as fit and cut were concerned.
At presence the balance is much more
equal, and this Is greatly to our advantage.
It is a fashion, too, thatiskind to women
who arc not tall, and is also not altogether
out of place with those unfortunate persons
Who are inclined to stoutness, while they
lack in height. Of course, there is a wide
range in embroidery and a dress may be
made as costly as one pleases, but the Idea
Is capable of being utilized by all of us
whose purses are as short as our wants are
long. "
Then, too. there arc many effective sub
stitutes for embroidery. One of these,
which I can recommend, is chene gauze
ribbon. The design may be outlined and
jeweled at home, and the effect is all
that could be desired. Then there are
jetted and jeweled galons, which may be
used over and over again. It is said, too.
that befoie long tapering sprays of cm-
brolderj will be sold all ready to apply to
the seams of the evening gowns. There
nrc already these in lace, which can be
-wrought with brilliants at intervals, and
thus made exceedingly effective.
The bolero coat has really become ex
tremely fashionable. It maj be that this
popularity will prove its death, but Just
at present it promises to be worn as gen
erally astlicnon Jacket-was in its palmiest
days. Everywhere it Is in evidence, made
in the cheapest as well ab the most costly
materials While it is not strictly r.cw
as an article of wear, it is quite bo as a
fashion, which, as I hai c said, amounts at
the present time almost to a craze. It is
in fact one of the curiosities of clothes
because it ab something exceedingly tijii'g
to any but the neatest and daintiest of
figures.
For the woman who wants to wear what
is called a smart coat, there is one just
beginning to be worn of the Chesterfield
shape, that is exceedingly comfortable
and stylish at the same time. The skirts
arc not liued,so that while warm, they are
not heavy. The top portion does not lit
tightly, for it just follows the lines of the
figure The scams are all strapped, aud
that around the wait is not straight,
but curved upwardover thehips audpolnted
downward under two buttons at the back,
and again toward the pockets in front.
This is a clever device to give due ap
pearance of length and slcndemcss to the
figure The skirts are wide, and thire is
thus plenty of room for the dress beaatir.
The collar is strapped and faced with
velvet, and the cuffs are gauntlet shape
and piped with .velvet. The garment can
be cither single or double breasted, tl-c
former being perhaps newer and bmarter.
The body portion is lined with very fine
woolen Kersey
Among the new spring mantles Is a
mantelet in black moire, with a pat
tern of silk grenndine applique and edged
with sequins. Large volants form the
sleeves, edged with lace falling over
puffed cream chiffon. The hat should be
of straw with bouquets of primulas and
foliage, as well as high bow. i" green and
mauve. A very smart cape is in black
poult de sole, the tight-fitting bodice
with the fine guipure embroidery on
linen. The volants are of ki'ted black
lace and grass lawn The collar is high,
and made of plisse and lace. The jabot is
or black lissc with cream guipure applique.
The hat which accompanies this cape
should be of mauve satin straw, the crown
encircled by rosettes in velvet and satin
moire ribbons in harmonious colors. High
bows and eucalyptus leaves add to its
charm. At the back there should be
clusters of roses In shaded pink.
One of the most fashionable Jackets is
the satin Sultane. It has a box pleat
down the back, and the braces are of fine
Jet. The zouave waistband is of folded
Kllk, and the sleeves arc with fulled ep
aulettes. The appropriate dress for the
head with this jacket Is a toque in rale
green braid, with sequins and beads. The
crown is formed of mercury, richly" stud
ded with beads and sequins. A handsome
osprcy feather is over all.
One of the prettiest gowns of the season
is of cashmere. The ornamentation is an
applique of velvet worked with cord, and
the color is the new smoked-gray. It is
made with a yoke and a basque cut up in
segments, and the cuffs and the revcrs are
lined with pink satin, or something else
that is suitable. It is a very smart mid
seaspn gown.
As for the bodice, its popularity seems
to be steadily Increasing. Even In gauzes
and thinner fabrics, of which it is con
structed, the transparent clement, cloud
like effect, and the upstanding soutache
pattern assert themselves. The detigns this
year must be different f ro:a those that have
preceded them or they arc not a la mode.
Many bodices will be made in the new
pleated brillautc, the most silky of these
thin fabrics, with all the brightness of Ko
mau satia and the suppleness of gauze.
"When they are pleated hoiizoatally aud per
pendicularly they give a species of lozenge
1. This exquisite cape has a design Of great popples applique in black lace migolUtisMicaccordconplc.tted Tiielining of rose-pink satin, also accordeon pleated,
gleams through thegold. The box-pleated ruches onthebhouldersand theedgeareof black satin edged with frills otvpink chiffon.- The little yoke of black velvet la -studded
with dlamouds. The collar of gold tissue and pink chiffon isfastenedin front with two black roses.
2. Tansy colored velvet silk and chiffon mantle To a yoke or pansy velvet is added a deep band of gathered Mlk a shade lighter, followed by mauve velvet
and a frill of Chiffon. A bow of yellowish lace, edged with a ruming orchiffonMs tied at the throat in front, and from it fall long scarf, or violet chiffon, bordered with
a flounce of lace, and ruchlngs or chiffon, while the last notcln this exquisite color chord la htiuck by the lining of white Ulk, where graduated stripes in shaded mauve
are arranged with infinite art.
3. llolero mantle of pale green cloth jet embroidered jind showing beneath an under bolero of black velvet edged with a frill or silk. The cape sleeves or green
moire are softened by ruches and deep pleatinga of green chiffon repeated inside the high collar.
effect. It is called plisse Sylvia, twenty
four inches wide, and uncrushable. It is
admirable for sleeves.
The newest things in fashion's thoes not
for walking, of course is a revival of the
modes which obtained in the Tudor and
Stuart times, when the women of the day
had more regard for appearance than coni
rort. The Idea has been carried out in great
variety and some ot the enormous 6carlet
heels appertain to glove-kid shoes. Some
pointed toes are after the style of Kdward
III in patent leather, which, of course,
have to be filled in, as no mortal toe could
ever reach the tips. These shoes are made
with quite moderate heels, only I 1-2
inches high. Some mule blippers, as they
are called, in yellow brocade, bordered
with a ruche with a heel 5 Inches high,
are perfect specimens of workmanship, as
well as examples of the heightof absurdity
to which a fashionable fad may run. There
is one delightful feature about all these
things of which I have told. We do not
have to wear any of them unless we wish
to. So if any of them are far beyond the
limits to which our purses will permit us to
go, we can simply say that for our part we
favor creations less elaborate. Nobody can
deny that simplicity and good breeding go
hand in hand. And there arc times when
there is a lot of comfortin the thought.
TAILOR SUITS AND GRENADINES
A Summer Street Costume From an
Evening Dress.
The American Easter has come to be
what Christmas is in Oriental countries. A
paterfamilias of Armenia, for example,
considers his Christmas obligations well
fulfilled when he buy6 himself a new roat
and wears it out visiting for the edification
of his friends.
The chief distinction between the cele
biation of the two festival seasons is
"that in America, instead of being the
paterfamilias, it is the materfanillias and
the "daughter famillas" who come out in
new regalia in honor of the day.
"With us, the exchange of gifts is a
secondary matter, although the custom is
coming more and more into favor, but it
will be a long time before the woman of
fashion sacrifices her Easter bonnet in
order to make extravagant presents to her
friends.
The gicat day comes so late this year
that some have not been able to wait for
it, and Talin Sunday will bring out a great
many new dresses today, which might
otherwise have been reserved for lister.
The fashionable world seems to have
caught the spirit of journalistic livalry,
and each member of it strives to be seen
in her Easter finery Just a little earlier
than her envied rival.
This Is a veiy convenient arrangement
for the woman who defers the completion
of her costume until the last week. She
can get ideas from the dresses that she
sees, aud. profiting thereby, may come out
In the very newest thing only a week
later than her prototype, and exactly on
time according to the calendar.
The fashionable dressmakers arc putting
the finishing touches on costumes that
are sure to make a sensation and send a
buzz andrustle throughout the assemblages
of worshipers next Sunday.
Most of these dresses arc grenadines
over silks la various colors and tailor-made
woolens trimmed with braid, Grenadines,
both figured and plain, are to be in high
favor, especially for young women. They
are made over taffeta silks.
In cutting the 6ilk lining and the over
dress, both should be gored, but the over
dress Is not sewed to the lining except at
the top, where it is slightly fuller and Is
gathered luto the waistband. Skirts vary
in width from the extremely narrowtallor
made style to the accordion pleated mous
scllnes and silks. Boine of the pleated
skirts have from eighteen to twenty gores,
Dut such di esses are not for the ordinary
mortal, and It will not profit us to disauss
them except as a soj tof curiosity of which
wc wish to know, but which wo never
can hope to possess.
The average skirt of this season has five
gores, but others arc made with six,
seven, eight, and nine, accordiug to the
kind of mateiial and the elaborateness of
the costume.
Thin maleiials, such as organdies, nre
made up witli wide sklits, or are trimmed
DAINTY EASTER CREATIONS.
.. . i .
t i
At,
with eight or nine flounces either pleated
or gathered, which start at the bottom
with the top one about seven inches below
the waibt.
A black grenadine that is being fin
ished up for one of Ualtimore's beautiful1
girls is made over purple taffeta The
gienndine has a wide square mesh so that
the purple shines through like sunset be
hind a cloud. The grenadine overdress
has two tiny, black lace ruiflos running
around the bottom of thekirt The seams
on each side of the front gore are trimmed
with a ruching of purple ribbon and black
lace that runs from the bottom of the
skirt about three-quarters of a yard up
The bodice fastens to the left side, and
has two rows of black niching running
from the waist to the left shoulder Two
more rows of niching aie sewed over I lie
sleeves at the shoulder, thus making four
rows on one side and two on the oilier.
Around the waist is a girdle of iltln Mack
ribbon. To brighten the liodice, there
is a strip of pmple gimp running up each
side of what would be a vest front. The
neck is finished with purple riblnin and
black niching.
Another black drcsis a material that is
1. Figured mousseline de laine or
three tucks on thelowereUgcandis'made
ribbons of rose color.
2. Tale gray wool dress with bottle-
green velvet, covered with white gblpure
m Tikk. S
L.F 4 ,.,. ' ''''"
i
called grenadine canvas. It' 1b made over
black taffeta. The silk lining has a four
inch pleating aioand the bottom. Thcover
drcss has two rows of narrow taffeta rib
bon edgt'd with blacklacearound the edge.-
Theso two ruffles are not more than two
Inches wide with both lace and ribbon.
The bodice has an accordion-pleated black
mousseline front, edged with gimp braid,
and with pleated rucliing running up the
bide to the shoulder like the dress de
scribed above.
Diagonal fastenings are very popular
this season and are generally becoming.
The new outside jickots fasten up on the
left side. They are about three-quarters
of a yard long and have full barks that
do not stand out like the Louis jackets,
but He flat.
A pretty style for a tailor-made dreHS
has a Jacket with a wide box pleat for a
vest front. Grej- covert cloth is the mate
rial of a suit tliat is to be the street cos-
V?.Hvt-
rv ii,ji' t-L ;i f. j-..
Pg$g3"
tunic for a young woman of twenty. The
skirt is plain except for three tiny folds or
the material around the bottom. The jacket
has square fronts with revcrs. The edges
arc piqued with white cloth, over which is
laid a nariow black gimp braid. In place
of the vest is a box pleat put on blouse
fashtoa, like the narrower pleats recently
used to drim dress woistF. This pleat ia
trimmed with Ippps of braid running across
and fastemHl y(th QbTorig gimp buttons. It
can be removed,' as; 'it Is only hooked ou
aud underneath the fronts fasten up in
military style, with a braid finibh at the
edges.
A similar costume of navy blue has just
such a jacket a-id the same 1kc pleat, but
in addition It has a bolero trimming of
gimp braid that forms a heart shapu in the
back. The skirt has its front gore seams
trimmed with irimp braid that runs up the
seam ahouttwnity-sevoninclies and ends In
frogs.
Nearly every dicss that Is made by a
fashionable dressmaker has an extra shirt
waist to go with It. This is an economical
shift, and io a gieat saving to one V dressy
tiodices. These shirt waists aie not the
ordinary, plain affairs with collar and cuffs
EASTER COSTUMES
-
silk dress for young girl. The skirt has
up over mauve silk. Collar and sleeve
v
green velvet trimmings. The collar Ib of
like the original shirt waists. They are
made with yokes, and little Jacket effects
of the same material or of lace or gimp
trimming, so that one can wear them to
church or to almost any but a very dressy
occasion. The plan of having more than
one waibt to the same costume is one that
has been long tried and" with very good
results, it Is especially desirable in the
case of evening dresses. Tery often the
girl of limited meauB finds herself reduced
to her riches-that is, she is absolutely
truthrul In saying she has "nothing to
wear" when she may have more than one
beautiful dress. There are not many oc
casions when the average working woman
has an opportunity to wear "full dress."
Hence it is usually well for her to avoid this
style, and have her best gowns only half
formal. A very good way to combine the
two is to have an extra yoke and sleeves
made to wear with the evening dress when
it is wanted for 'less formal occasions.
An organdy with low neck and shortsleeves
can tie converted even into a btreet dtes
for summer by the addition of an accordion
pleated yoke and sleeves of some daiuty
hued chiffon.
All modistes agree that this Is to be pre
eminently a lace, chiffon, and net season,
nud the tendency has already begun to
show lttelfjn the number and variety of
grenadine dresses that are being prepared
tor the. great Easter pageant that will de
light feminine eyes next Sunday.
For immediate wear, if one cannot afford
a new gown, it is entirely possible to make
nu old one look new by trimming It with
braid.
Phonographic Fnct-s.
People know not the Round of their own
voices. Let them try a phonograph and
see if they can recognize their own speech.
And few know how carelessly they speak.
Not one in a thousand articulates with
cue. if you were to lepeat to a grandilo
quent gentleman his manner of speech he
would, be ofrended and declare you were
ridiculing him. New Tork Press.
FOR LITTLE MAIDS.
1. Tailor costume in putty-colored cloth. The skirt is trimmed with stitch
ings and gold buttons on the pockets. The straight bolero corsage is laid in pleats
and ornamented with geld buttons. Waist band of green silk, and silk pleatings on
the sleeve openings at the wrist.
2. rink figured mousseline de laine dress, open upon a front of cherry satin. ,
Large collar of white guipure over cherry.
Easter Girls and
Easter Gifts.
New York, April 10. The Easter butter
fly is about to emerge from its chrysalis.
Simultaneously the Easter gift becomes
largely in evidence. The attention of the
one is sure to be devoted to the other,
and so the shopkeepers who deal In things
that are fanciful are preparing for the har
vest time. It is the season of preparation,
for Easter Sunday promises this j ear,
despite the hard times, to evolve the most
notable parade of fine feathers on fine
birds that Fifth avenue ever witnessed.
Time was when the lily was far In the
lead of all other flowers when the now or
the Eastertide began, butthis yearitprom
ihes to have many close competitors for
favor. The florists say that more than ever
before the orders for flowers are of a
more general nature. Of course, the lilies
predominate; aud beautiful they are There
are some choice new specimens this sea
bon. several varieties being totally unlike
in their points which appeal to the judges
of flowers, and that have seen the light
of a previous Easter. Ilereis another rea
tuie of the close of Lent that the hard
times seem to have had no effect upon
thus far.
The shops of the milliners and modistes
are filled with a fluttering throng of
femininity, possibly to- a far greater-extent
than would be the case if it were
not that the fetching hats, bonnets and
gowns In process of creation are not ao
luxurious in point of price as in other
seasons The creations nre none the less
charming, however, and the Easter girl
of 1897 will form fully as attractive a
picture as any of her predecessors.
Each year witnesses the growth in
popularity of the Easter gift. Usually this
gift is largely tinged with religious feel
ing, but there nre those who prefer not
to have it so. Some persons even in this
day of composite ideas appreciate the in
congruity of an Easter souvenir spoon with
a half-shelled chicken for the "bowl and
a cioss where the tail ought to be. As a
matter offact.it ib usually the least pious
persons who deprecate the haphazard ap
plication of the religious symbols of the
day.
What better gifts, then, can there be
than Mowers and plants Of which so many
hundreds of thousands are sold each Good
Friday week. From tht street wagons,
where dimes are all sufficient, to the fash
ionable florists, where ImpoMng checks
release the obligation, one sees on every
haud the posies going about in their tissue
paper and cotton batting hoods. Evory
whereone uoticesthe same truth how com
plete is the subjection of the rose. Azaleas
never knowf what it is to live until the
selfish florists ajlow them to spread their
rosy or white skirts for the glory or the
day. Callas are kept in beds like bad
children for fear they will misbehave and
be all tired out when they should be in the
best of condition.
Lilies, pansies, narcissus, violets, hya
cinths, rhododendrons and hydrangeas, to )
iay nothing of the more modest mignonette
aud jonquils, are oue and all allowed to
celebrate Caster without let or hindrance
all indeed, save the riotous rose The
Jacqueminot lies all unnoticed, and waits
with her sisters for the earthly festivals
that aie coming the days of the June
brides. Above and beyond them all, how
ever, the lily reigns in statuesque state
lincss. Even In the shops of the florists
,it seems to recognize the facts of its
: supremacy and look ntiout with dainty
disdain on its. sweeter, although less
favored, companions.
While they who pose in attitudes before
a lily maj meet on common ground, the
simple souls who see in the satiny tex
ture and the marvelous yellow pollen the
most beautiful works of nature, there
ore others who like to add to the gift an in
trinsic value in the shape of a mere lasting
receptacle. No matter how slender the
purse, no matter how enormous the wealth
of a man, he can find an appropriate token
of his wish to live remembered on every
hand.
In every store there ure beautiful bud
glasses tiny vases in which to exhibit
the beauty of a single flower In choice
cut-glass, brilliant as crystal itself,
there are dozens or designs, not all ex
pensive. Venetian glass collections show
hundreds, no two alike The green glass,
either plain or etched in silver, which
came into notice a couple ot years or so
ago. Is now for sale In immense variety,
the flower vaics ranging from these same
tiny specimen glastes to the huge flower
throated ones several feet tall and made
to hold great sprays of the snow Ascension
lilies.
As a mercy devoutly to be thankful for,
the jardinierrc, or flower Jar, has evolved
itself for its primitive violence of color.
The raw reds, greens, and yellows were
once the only hues to be found in ugly
bulbous shapes, have passed from favor.
Now there are pleasant browns and good
Chinese blues and whites. The little Jars
are very cheap, even in the best designs.
Another springlike gift Is the sliver table
jardiniere filled with growing ferns, topped
perhaps, with a glowing anacena. which
may brighten without oppressing the fam
ily table for weeks after Easter has come
and gone. The secret of success in keep
ing these ferns green and fresh is to give
them the moisture they remember once
belonged to their dark homes in the woodi
or more likely, the homesof their ancestors.
Just why candy is supposed to be the
most appropriate Easter present- which a
young man Is permitted to give, no oue
can tell. But the truth remains that very
popular girls are likely to be loaded down
with sweets enough to send a whole or
phan asylum to a hospital. Bonbonnieres of
china, silver, and cut glass are often the
important carriers of these fleeting lump
or sweetness and a present worthy or a
queen is thus smuggled by the mother who
objects to daughters receiving anything
but the most trifling gifts.
AVlien one turns from the n-alms or po-'
sles and plants and seeks for gifts of gold
and silver, the field of extravagance is per
ceptibly enlarged. Since gold Is almost a
matter of personal adornment, theselection
of gifts of which it Is largely a component
part requires excellent taste Silver, on the
other hand, takes every fonn from the costly
ware to the silver hat mark, which every
la.Sri thinks she mutt give her lad. And so
it happens that Easter has ccne to be not
only the natal day of charming fashions,
but a f urtherproof that the kindly methixls
of dear old Kris Kringle are extending
farther and farther from the Christmas
tide into the new year that follows.
SWEET PERFUMES.
To Preserve the JJreath of FloweM
for Your Own Use Is Easy.
Since the days of that musical old In
cendiary, Nero, fountains of perfume and
odor-reekiug garments are no longer "en
regie."
Perfume, however. Is still a necessary?
though restricted adjunct to my lady's
toilet. But It is also expensive, and, more
over, is ofteu so adulterated that many
of the alleged "triple extract' are mere
chemical compounds masquerading under
the alluring names of the flowers they
represent.
By making one's own perfumes both
economy and purity will be secured, and
at the same time a dainty employment will
be furnished for the summer days. One
does not'need access to the Vale of Cash
mere nor the Valley of Var in order to do
it, either. IV single thrifty rose tree, a
small bed of violets, a lilac or acacia bash
or a tangle or lilies of the valley is quite'
sufficient- The modern way of extracting
perfumes for the still, so popular with
the Egyptians, is now out of date, at least
for such innocent uses is by means of
grease, a rather unromaatic but effective
medium. As long as a fragrant flower
breathes -for flowers do breathe In a way
it exhales perfume, and since pure grease
of any sort is exceedingly sensitive to
odors, absorbing them with great reudl
ness, it makes a simple and very satisfac
tory vehicle to preserve this exquisite
breath.
There are two ways of doing this. One
Is called "enfleurage." which sounds
pretty, but is rather harder to manage
than the less artistically named but
equally effective method of "macera
tion." To ifse the first mothod sashes of glass
are necessary; old windows would serve
very well. The glass is coated with
grease, over this the flowers are thickly
scattered and then closely covered. Aa
the flowers die they are replaced with
fresh ones, until the grease is thorough
ly impregnated which usually takes about
the length or time that the particular kind
of flower you are using remains In bloom
possibly a month.
The process of maceration does not
require such an elaborate outfit. Jt is
done by means of what is technically
called a "bain ilarie." but when buying
one you need only to ask for a double
boiler or oatmeal cooker. The process
is simply cooking the flowers In the
grease until it is thoroughly saturated
with their perfume. The grease must be
kept at a very gentle heat, and as fresh
flowers are added the old ones are strained
out. This process also takes about four
weeks. The giease is then dissolved in a
proper amount of alcohol, ami the result
is a perrume lasting and pure and cheap
w ithal.
Jasmine and tube rose are best treat
ed by enfleurage, roses and acacias by
maceration, while violets and jonquils
should have both treatments in the order
named, to get the best effect. Mixing the
perfumes ;ill often give surprising re
sults. If you have been so fortunate as to -rfpend
a winter in Florida, you can have
a supply of jasmine and orange which,
mixed, will give sweet pea. Jasmine and
tube rose make hyacinth, and violet and
tube rose, lily of the valley.
The use of perfumes Is a delicate art.
Xo lady cares to harbinger her presence
by an aggressive odor, but rather to
carry with her a delicate, subtle redo
lence, suggestive or her character rather
than of auy particular brand of perfumery.
To produce this result requires variety of
odors. Devotion to one kind of perfume
dulls the sense or the nser, and she is apt.
therefore, to apply it too lavishly, thus
bringing about the very result she
would avoid. A certain lady who Is often
a.k,ed what perfume she uses finds it hard
to answer, for it's orris rootln hennorning
bath, attar of roses among ber linen, and
violet bprayed on her 'kerchief.
But the varieties should be chosen with
care. It must be remembered that there is
a relationship between odors just as be
tween tints and sounds and they should be
used harmoniously they should "chord."
For example, acacia blends with orange
flower; geranium Is improved with a bare
hint or camphor: rose is accompanied prop
erly with a bare suggestion or musk, and
if heliotrope is used for perfume, al
mond meal perfumed with almond Is the
proper thing for the bath. By such judi
cious combinations is produced that elu
sive, indescribable fragrance characteristic
or the personality. By it is suggested, not
roses, nor lilies, nor violets, but rather
what the Germans so prettily call "blu
mengeist" the very spirit of all flowetdi,
Love on the LinUs.
I bee her race in the distance.
From under her Jaunty cap;
They'reover the run they've nearly wonl
II y love and the other chap.
They sit on a stile together
And wait; It Is still our '-be;"
I flourish my club, aud the stlu I rub
From over the caddy's eye.
Confound that chap who's with her he will
Utter
The words I've as yet had no chance to
speak;
The devil take the driver and the putterl
The loiter and the mushy undclcek!
At last, on the green, we Join them,
But what does he whisper low?
I very much doubt if It's "your hole out,?
Or ub to the score, you fcnowl
Foursomes are grewsomc, I'm thinking.
You've pain from the time you start,
When a winsome maid, in a gray Scotch
plaid
Tees off. and thcJwU's your heart!
You've lost the game you fear you've lost
the lassie,
Because of t'other fellow, and his cheek;
You mutter low; "The devil take tha
braMseyl
The lofter and the driver and the cleekl"
m
