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lyziT Jasj - 3 ; ryx"-f-fixf.-: j' 14 THE 3IOBN1NG TIMES, SUNDAX, MAY 2, 1897. & RX3(3Sa0S(iS333(B(90iX!XiX93OGX3S(DSG)S)Sg I T.? WBii I FasfiiQi Ci geGxsasssssxBSoaeseosoes By t he time the season lias rolled arouad to May the spring costume lias become an old btory and everybody is talking about summer dollies. Tlie dressmakcis shops aie full of organdies and other flimsy materials conducive-to the Joys of July. Grass linen and linon batiste have as sumed their old place in our hearts, and arc being made up with laces und cm broideries like other thin materials. It is like getting .v glimpse of summer to von into nip'-hy-ehow' room or one "ofTYhc large store windows. One can easily imagine tljc scene as it will be one or two months hence ane many flounces will be ilutteiing in mountain and sea "bi cozes, and parasols and fans will once more take their lightful places in the hand of the coquette. The time is flying very fast, and those who have not attended to the question cf a summer wardrobe will suddenly find themselves suffering with the tcorcltlng; heat, while others are enjoying the thin mulls and nigaiidy,walsts'that repiescnt thetlutff oYeaTlyspring. It-will be a. very easy niattei for such as these to purchase a shiit waist or two all ready made, but it will ali-o be a very expensive method compared with whatitmightbave been with a little providence and forethought. The new bhut waists arc made of the thinnest or materials, dlniMies and batistes being the favorites. These goods are very cheap, and the amateur will find it easy to make pretty summer waists- for herself, and tlie money thus, saved will purchase an extra ribbon to wear around tne neck. Stiff collars and cuffs are notrequircd In tma season's waists, and this simplifies tte process of making at the same time that itlessens the laundry bill. Sldrt waist cuffs are made to turn back and may be cither plain or edged with pleating or Valenciennes lace. Stiff collars are being blowly but surely discarded. One Is usually sold with each waist, but Is rarely worn, as a ribbon takes its place so much more comfortably and is more becoming in nearly every instance. One should lay In a plentiful supply of Hbbons while the sale arc going on, as they will be found exceed ingly useful during the summer season. The stereotyped measure for a ribbon 6tock is one yard and a quarter. "With a little skimping one can get along with one yard and an eighth. The bow should be made cr.ee for all at one end of the rib bon and not tied over and over again every time thestockisputon. Thcquickestway, when one is in a hurry, is to tie the bow with two loops and one short end then, when the stock is fastened together an end Is left on the other side to finish out the bow. Tins can be done quite as quickly as tying the bow with both ends, and the ribliou will la.-t much longer. Nothing looks so untidy as a soiled ribbon, and on the other hand a fresh ribbon will make a shabby gown respectable; hence since ribbons are cheap, it behooves sensible people to have as large a supply as pos biblc One can buy plain ribbonb in solid colors for 19 cents a yard, and these will serve very nicely to wear with shirt waists on hot d.iys, though, of course, they are not the- newest, else they would not be so cheap. .. The new ribbons are either plaid or Mripcd, and have so many colors woven together that they can be worn with gown1- of any hue. These are used for FtocUs, for hat trimmings, and for sa&hes Sashes are made with long cuds and very email loops sometimes not any, In making thin dresses for summer, all thr prevailing fashions arc modified. For in-'a'ice, if a bolero style i wanted It is .produced by gathering a wide flounce of the good into place on the waist. A dainty little pink organdy made in this maimer has two pleated flounces running around the arm's eye, looking partly like extra fullness left from the sleeve, and partly like a bolero. The bodice underneath fits close to the figure and has a strip of lace insertion appliqued in festoon form about the waist The same festoons ornament the skirt two rows of them Below and following the same lines are three pleated ruffles. There is a green ribbon girdle andsasli, and lace collar and cuffs. The hat worn w:th it is green straw trimmed with pink rosea Skirt trimmings are becomings more and more elaborate, and very few of them are allowed to take a straight course. One dress, with a panel front, has rows of in sertion and lace flounces put on, in Van dykes across the panel. Everything slopes upward toward the back, ir several rows of braid or velvet are used to trim the top of a skirt, they curve downiufront and .slant up at the back. A blue dress with a braid of pleated mull running mid waj around the skirt exemplifies this feature or prevailing modes- The pleated band Is about five Inches wide and slants up toward the back Under the boleio bodice, which,, by the war. fastens on the Ierc shoulder and Is trimmed with a band of pleating like that on the skirt, is a blouse of soft, thin material, that Is belted in -with a en tin girdle- There are pleated fans spread over the sleeve tops. The Idea of a thin uuder-bodice is carried out In various ways. Sometimes it shows below the over-bodice Just above the wait. In other cases It is Inserted In the necks of thick drew-es to brighten them as well us to mak them cooler for hot weather A heliotrope costume In ma dame's show room was provided with a whole bodice of pleated batiste, which gave It a very cool, summery look, notwithstanding the Eton Jacket effect of the heliotrope waist. This Jacket had a broad collar that turned away fiom the neck, leaving the shoul ders uncoi'ered execptby the batiste waist. Tlie collar was trinmied with braid and edged with a pleating of batiste. The braid trimming was carried down on the bkirt to simulate a Jacket effect. Surplice styles and t-o5ces that fas ten up on the left side are vury prevalent among the new dresses. A nresa of black and pale blue has a "barrel ''Eton Jacket laid in round and round folds which fastens up on one side with a cascade of lace The sleeves are striped and folded in the same manner, and, with the Vandyke pleated flounces of the skirt, the effect is very striking. Another dress which shows this style as well as another favorite one Is made or a heliotroiic material trimmed with velvet and wide embroidered trimming. The lodice is laid la up and dawn folds and fastens it the left side underneath a broad band oftrimming,and a wide velvet girdle confines the waist. Epaulets consisting of folds stand out over the sleeves, and fol!l8formthecuffs. A strip of embroidered trimming makes the collar with velvet I fthP f n nftfnf. .,. n-frfln.Hn " auo Mtjb.'uiii uui cv lui; &i o. M w- Considering the prohibitory price one is doomed to pay for real lace, It scerns ab surd that tlie folks who form the subject ot tins aiticle bhouldbe, as they are, one oC the' worst paid communities in the world, but in the lace trade the middlemen swl- low up bimost en'irely the gigantic profits that assuredly must lie between the wages of the worker and the long-prices given In the shops. Were these shops able to get their stock straight from tlie workers the public might rejsotiably expect to purchase it at least 15 per cent cheaper, but, under tl(e present sjblein, ttie lice has to pass through threesetsot nan Isoreltreachestbo purchaser. Eurther, tlie designs from which the lace Is made are the property ot the middlemen, none ot the villagers possessing- patterns ot their own; nor could they well afford to buy them, for each individual design Is worth five francs, no matter whether It be ot a handkerchief, butterfly, flounce, etc... and five francs is a matter ot grave im portance to the peasant folks. These designs are traced In innumerable small holes oaa certain sort of glazedpaper; thlsprickedpaperiskeptbythcmiddlcman, whose copyright it b., and he supplies his workerswlthspccimens as they are wanted. When a copy is to be taken the glazed paper is spread over a bhect of thick dark blue paper, and powdered chalk crushedthrough the minute holes of. the former by means of a wad. When the whole design has in this way been gone over, the original pattern is removed, aud underneath clearly traced In lines of white chalk on the blue surface appears the pattera required. This U gone over with pea and Ink, and the design is ready for the worker. By this method hundreds of copies may be taken from the original design, and the five francs fee seems less exorbitant than at flrstappeared to be the case. The composing of new designs is a recognized trade, aud a much moredifflcultoaethancanwellbaimagined for it reuqires a good deal ot knowledge, combined with taste, to design something that, while considering the claims ot grace and freedom, does not ignore those ot well balanced proportion. The patterns once designed and sold must never be passed oa to some one else; they are gone forever. A good many years ago there were several men who worked for various firms Just as orders arrived, sending here today and there tomorrow, "hut it was found that the temptation to palm oft the same design on two people was well nigh irresistible, and a good deal of unpleasantness arose in consequence. Nowadays each middleman has his own designer attached to the es tablishment, and the restrictions laid upon the workers as to the selling or work to any one else are equally the lot of the designer, says the Queen. When the workers receive their designs they fasten down the small piece ot blue paper on to their cushions, and la working the lace place the pins along, the broadlnk lines. An expert hand will use the Fame paper six times, but the novice finds it torn beyond liope after the second bit of lace has been worked. This Is because the latter lias. not learned to judge where the pins should be inserted, and consequently on going over the design the second time, does not place the wee pins in the holes made before, but, making a fresh set, de stroys the paper. When the pattern gets torn, it has to-be thrown away, otherwise minute fragments of fclue paper work In among the threads and give the lace a. bluish tinge when finished, which greatly depreciates both appearance and value. Neither by any chance docs a worker rer ceive the entire pattern of anything. Each design is arranged to form several bits, and the fragments distributed among the women in different villages-- The precau tion is generally taken when, by the na ture ot the design, it is easy to see how the fragments fit together. In the more complicated work the four or five bits that go to make up the whole are merely giver out In the one village. All the bits are bronght into Brussels to the employer's house, where they are joined up Into their respective shapes by one good worker, who often is compelled to live oji the premises and who is-given-the complete design to judge from with regard to how the pieces dovetail into one another. The lace worker's day begins about 6 a. m-, summer and winter, and only ends to ward nudnightartera longevenlug or work directly under the rays of a strong lamp. It might be imagined that' such protracted toll would ruin the eyesight in a great measure, but, as a matter of fact, a good worker depends more upon her fingers to guide her than the eyes. With practice she can work away with both speed and accuracy, just taking in the general, ap pearance of the lace, but relying on her sense of touch to keep her right in little" particulars-. So much for the pillow lace workers. For those who make point lace with needle, and thread it is quite another thing. la their case there are no fripndlv hnh- bins, and the strain on the eyes Is terrible., often, leavins: them halt blind at two or three and twenty. After that age a point -,........-.- . ..... . A m 4. , . r?k ry $rl yvfSlr A P7 r5 $mfe$r Jtr R -l flfr-ms&P ?fv!feKS lzSlw taw ... i " tP& I lri s&iffl&&MMJGM6&r V?M ' A s& Ej&a )jV jrr. W&i& H w t XT tfafflBRiBH 1 Eurther, Uie designs from which the lace M?y vr 1 BSaBBMPro7-4fi " , xS? 'SZ?'& is made are the property of the middlemen, U V An8tBHHjB Sc '-rJnHXl " none ot the villagers possessing- patterns ot V 1 v . mwx!UB$&8!vB&: rfm ? 'fvp-y1 JS their own; nor could they well afford to tyj U -A S SiiiHfeSwtmMBL'lliai T$& "c? - Yf Jj.- buy them, for each individual design is CLK W'P X I KBHljISHiVMty ( dd )l " jR-Z-i worth rivefraucs.no matter whether It be S -s' I iBMflBRffli9fY ! Fvl r ' H ot a handkerchief, butterfly, flounce, etc. !?. JJ X V l BBgffljMnufiHEV 'j".vl "f 'fSl and five francs is a matter ot grave im- $ V 1 rx jteBBBJtuBgwy-f f f mny?'rry' in 'V-Vljfr- Tg portance to the peasant folks. (5S& "rSi vd fUtmiSwi WniTMWnHft- oO f S::S1 These designs are traced In innumerable j?r SjV ii MtBflSjMTf'rfflRrFyiiM s:::?- smallholesoaacertalnsortof glazedpaper; 2 I - ThsH'- ' ffulf U l!fra jf 1 1 WrtVtcfvN. M Jg&T-Stf?Sft thlsprickedpaperiskeptbythcmiddlcman, onfa w jL -Ea . ' flSfl k i'Vwvv J-ATj whose copyright it la, and he supplies his ., s- KISrfmttSE fWl L II I v SSS!!!! workerswlthspccimensastheyarewanted. 3 il JWSSIlWBTnffmtMi III 1 XWSivX . When a copy is to be taken the glazed paper C l iWBslliBr?? nBPi Jj V j4ffrrriV $!? is spread over a sheet of thick dark blue - V JWHrKfngsSlaSy JWfetMlS? vkV aPas J worker can seldom soatacrpss a road, so short-sighted has she become by constantly working-at the- fine lacei JHor eyes also are horrid to look at, lnfltt'med and angry Iookhag. Yet these girls inisomc respects have a more pleasant life thaa their ulsters ot the bobbin;.. Though they work hard during autumn and winter at their cruel trade, yet when spring comes they put by the lace, and, Incredible as it may sound, go of f into the field3 to work as farm hands until the autumn comes around again. Why it does not spoil the delicacy of touch is a myotery that no one has been able to solve; but the fact remains that the hands wield ing the hoe, spade, etc., during the warm months are equally at home with a needle and the finest of thread during the winter ones. This absolute change of employment Is necessary for their health, which other wise would suffer severely many of the girls being condemned to work in cellars, where no light is permitted to penetrate save one'shaft falling directly on the lace, rendering It easier to follow the fine threads. These cellars are, as a rule, somewhat damp. The moisture in the air ts an advantage, for. it pi events the thread from snapping a frequently as it would VMS?- x . 3 Vs- - it 'isS do in a drier atmosphere, but such a con dition of life can scarcely be termed de cently healthy for these uurortunatc girls. Such an existence deserves a large rec ompense, but the Flemish women, have to content themselves with a wage or seven, pence to eight and .one-bait pence a day. Two years ago It went down as low as six pence and that was only Tor first-class, work. Billow lace Duchesse and point aPaiguille both are paid at the same rate, and the wouder Is that any one is found wlllinir to sacrifice her "life for such a mis erable pittance. Before the Invention of machine-made lace the prices of the real article were stupenduous, but the workers also reaped the benefit of those golden days, for they could earn from four to five francs, per diem with tolerable ease- and even afford to take a short rest every now and then, "ilais nous avons change tout celaL" Mar chines turn out hundreds of yards of imi tation lace; the person who buys the leal Is the exception, rather than the rule; arti ficial flowers,, sequins, jet,, tulle and feathers come into fashion for a. bit, and. the humble lace-worker, goes, to the wall S he does not understand the why and where fore; how should she? Yet there comes a time when fashlon'spcndnlum. again swings, andlace real lace is oncemorea- lamode- Then are the quiet Belgian vlllagcsastir; cushions packed away since their owners' deaths are brought to light by those who have inherited them; orders are given for more bobbins; great packets ot fine cotton arc distributed among the villagers, and the lace trade starts with renewed vigor. Now a word about this cotton. Fiftyyears ago thelace was entirely made oftheflnest ot linen thread, which, besides laatingprac tlcally for ever, with a little care, was much softer in the working, and rendered the dainty fabrlcmorepllable. Butitwasmuch more expensive than the cotton that today i s u niversally used , and which costs only 4d. the packetottenHkelns. The very fine linen thread is nownolonger manufactured, and, wereltever so much desired, theoldstyleot lace could not be made The cotton is ob tainable in twoBhades one dead white, the other ot a creamy tint that occasionally might well be termed yellow. One ot the leading; middlemen in. Brussels states that almost all the creamy-toned work-finds Its way to America, hardlyanyofLtbeing-aor ceptcd by England, France, or indeed any European country. The Americans, on the other hand, prefer it to the dead white, whlcn tbey seldom purchase, New York Evening. Telegram. She Knew. lie I muBt go to Philadelphia, Martha, on urgent bsftlnesa today. i r- She AIL right, John. Wlll,yon return loBleht, or star till the team .comes back? New York CoBimerdal-AdverUsefc, Kfc V mMWit nSE3ilH9QSaaBNBeK' 7TmlWlWv-v. WW JSift-VgiftwX. j - sJf. v fsmmEw&wf Pl Vfxc TO SAVE THE BROKEN DISHES. Breiilc Thorn More and Make- a Putty Pns.to for Decorating Purposes. A dish that is broken,-or even cracked. Is usually regarded as past help, but no woman ever casts lfc, into the-garbage box without a sigh of regret, and a longing to know some means- of putting" it to use. With this Idea in view the broken pieces have in many cases been saved and deco rated with sprays of flowers to serve for pin trays and such" llkov But this is never patisfactoryT because the raw, sharp edges are always hurtiifg-somebody's band, and besides, the pieces, collect dust and aie easily broken. The best way to dispose ot them is a method that is not new, but-one that Is r being revived as npfad by a certain set. The result is almost pretty enough to con sole a housewife for the loss of her cher ished china, andthat Is putting It strong, wheaonecoiiBiderswhat a large corner that same china occupies in her heart. This means of disposing)! them requires a largu number ot pIecesr'tlio moreand the smaller they are the butter... Thus has come about the anomaly of !- ,. -- JLi S?N 0ejfeS A VISION OF SUMMER. a housewife lamenting over a broken tea cup of which sheis secretly glad, because, forsooth, it was Just what she needed to complete her new decorated flower box. The only accessories needed in the pro cess of saving broken china are plentiful supplies ot putty a smooth surface like a board or a flower jar, and a bottle of. gilding. There ar;e two methods of pro ceedure. One is to cpver the board or Jar with putty and pat it down smooth and even before beginning to stick on the broken pieces. This method is preferable, if one has enough pieces to finish tho whole surface at one sitting-- It not, it is better to take a small lump of putty for each piece, fitting it down and putting the next one into place beside it, and to on until the surface is covered. The putty which oozes up between the pieces is then gilded, and the process, so far as the broken pieces are concerned, is over. So far, only the bare material for arti cles of use has been manufactured, but there is no end to the list of uses to which it may be put. Some women use it for picture frames, others for imitation tiling or mosaic on a bare wooden mantel. If one has' a large supply otDroken dishes an ugly mantel can be greatly beautified in this manner. It would require the sav ings ot several families for this, however, and unless the mantel is very small it is rather too ambitious an undertaking for a beginner. One ot the prettiqst things I have seen decorated with dishes, is a wooden flower boxfllled withgrowingpalms. It was made to set on a veranda this summer, and at a little distance looks like a piece ot solid porcelain of great beauty. As an ornament to the house and the surrounding lawn it has already excited the greatest admira tion. D'jrlng very stormy weather it may easily bo brought in the house and placed in a sunny window. Ugly plant Jars may also be treated In this way to advantage In the manufacture of the china paste all sorts of crockery are used. Pieces of pink or blue glas3 the relics of colored water seta old Delft ware, majolica cups and saucers, n&y all be combined with chips of the very finest china to form the most exquisite effects, It requires yomo artistfe sense toobtain a good result, but nearly every woman, has enough of this quality to insure- success. It often happens that one's broken dishes run out before tlje arifcle Is finished, -md as even -the most enthusiastie decorator cannot quite brlag hcrsclt to breaking up her own china fop, such purposes, she must either wait unti, accident favors her or obtain the pieces, elsewhere. Dealers in porcdainjbave dlacovered this and have developed quite a trade In broken dishes. Go- to. any wholesale china firm, and ask for ftcaais' worth of brokea.ch.ina and yoa will get, basketful large enough ,to start yo working on,.the window, side. r - , ,. ,. , . "S!i h r 't T ff V B v j on .-.M of a flowor-box, after which you can take your time iaUout finishing the other three aides. Tea .cups and plates are the choice artlclos of,i,the set for this purpose tlie handles ot the cups being extremely deco rative. Wbenltl3 all done the wholesur face may be covered with outdoor varnish for articles that- are to be exposed to the weather. Superlative SenalUieHS. There are occasions when a man feels small, there are occasions when he feds smaller and there are occasions when he feels smallest. Thts. talc deals with one ot the last mentioned He had been instructed to- get something at one of the large grocery houses la the business section of the city, "because," as hlit wif explained It, "they (don't keep it out here." lie had also been instructed to get just two pounds of it, "because," aa his wife again oxpluincd, "I merely wish to try it. aud see whether it Is an improvement upon what I am now using." Then she wrote .the name on a slip of paper for him, for she had learned by ex perience not to trust to his memory, and informed him that she didn't know how sf s r much It would cost, but that it certainly would not be very much, to which he re sponded that he was gladot that, for the reason that he had only a little change with him. So it happened that he drifted Into one ot the big retail grocery houses that after noon, pulled out a scrap of paper with the name of what be wanted on it, handed it to a clerk, and said he'd take two jirfunds- The clerk looked a little surprised and asked it he couldn't use live pounds, as the stuttcame in five-pound packages, but he felt confident that his wife knew her busi ness, and, besides, he could not forget that he only had about $1.73 In change In his pocket anyway, so he coldly informed the clerk that he knew what he wanted and how much he wanted, and that he saw no reasonfor wasting bis hard-earned cash oa more than that just because they were foots enough to put it up in larger packages. The clerk said "all right," and broke the tive-pound package to get the necessary twopounds. Thenitsuddenlydawnedupon the young man that, in view of the bluff he had made, he would belna very awk ward position if the two pounds came to more than his SlJTo. Be recalled that his wife had said that it wouldn't cost very much, but she had said the same thing once about a bonnet, and he had never placed much faith in her views of the value of things since. However, he made the best ot the situation, and asked: "Bow much?" without a trace of nervousness. "Three cents a pound," answered the clerk. That waswhenhe experienced the super latlveof the adjective "small." Befeltthat he had made about 20 cents' worth of work togctG cents'worthof stuff outof a 15-cent package, and, in addition, had suffered a full dollar's worth of mental torture. newasnotingoodhumorwhenhereached home Chicago Post. Her Idea of Duty, Mamma Hen Where are you goln'? llortense Oh, just for a little-spin, mamma. Mamma Ken (reprovingly) Ishould think you would" stay at home and help your mother scratch up that new onloubed that Neighbor Teascley set out this morning. Chicago Dispatch. She Made tbe Change. "Soyonarehavingyourhousercdecorated, Mr. Hawkins?" "Yes; the workmen began last week." "Are you .makiug radical changes?" "Yes-very."- "Wnatis td'be the main feature ot the aewJJouse?:,,:,'5 "You If yon!U coDseBt." Boston Trav- eller. ljiv&? r g0 . m H&tr rfisini at Ifemg. A woman's tresses have been the making ot her fortune mora than once. The average man regards them, with a species of awe,, and their labyrinthine arrange ment is to him as gToat a mystery as the whereabouts of a dress pocket. Most men, whether consciously or un consciously, size up a girl according to tlje way she fixes her hair. It It looks rough aud unkempt, that detracts Just so much f mm her attractiveness in. his eyes, and no matter how beautiful she may be In other respects, tbisfaultin her make-up casts a shadow upon her loveliness and prevents unqualified admiration. There is no ex cuse, in themubculluecodeof good breeding, for untidy hair . Meri untidiness is, ot course, Inexcusable, and needs only a comb and brush to remedy It; but when f tcomes to a comparisonof tlje different arrangements of the hair to see which is the most becoming and best suits one's style as well as the length and thick ness of one's locks, then.lt is that art steps in as an aid to nature, transforming a mass oflndifrereat hair Into a crown of radiant beauty. There is no reason In the world why a coifrure should remain an unknown prob lem to all but French maids and profes sional hairdressers. Every woman can learn to fashion a pretty liead dress, if She puts her mind upon It, as easllyas She can make a piece ot fancy work or a savory pudding; and certainly nothing is deserving of more attention. By a coiffure is not necessarily meant one ot those elaborate affairs of rolls and puffs, although it is profitable to learn how they are made; but it may be tliat the simplest possible arrangement is the one best suited to a given -style. To de termine tMs each woman must arrange her hairln manydifferentstytcs and then, hav ing detci mined wliich one is most becoming, she should adhere to it regaidless of change in fashion. It is too expensive for the ordinary mortal to pay a hair dresser for doing- this, and as there are no schooisot hair arrangement such as there are for cooking, gymnastics and various other things, each individual must teach hersel L "It is for the guidance or such as these that a fewgeneral rules are given below. In the first place, the hair mast be clean and Huffy. No arrangement, however urtistic, will compensate for the Inherent disadvantages of greasy hair. It is not only more difficult to arrange, because it never will stay where it is put, but it never shows ofrso well as the hair that is light and fluffy. For all btylei. of arrangement that are prevalent nowadays It will be found easier of manipulation to tie the back hatr to gether In some way. For this tho old fashioned fastening was a well-worn shoestring-, which was used because it was soft as well as strong Some use a rubber band, bnttlus palls audtears the hairbadly. A good compromise between the two has recently been invented. It is so simple that it is surprising nobody ever thought of It before It consists of a loop of nar row rubber ribbon with a button at one end, and is operated by passing the 'oop around the hair and fastening It over the button. It is also convenient to separate a por tion of the front and side hair from therest before tying the back. This-is done for two reasons both for convenience in ar ranging tho hair loose around the face? and because nearly every one lias some half grown locks that are sure to stick out In the wrongplacein thetwistif not done separately. In whatever manner the hair may be arranged, the extra side portions should be combed back and fastened as they are Intended to be before the oacfc hair is twisted up The newest coiffure, and the one which will be most fashionable during the coming season, Is the pompadour in its various forms. It is therefore advisable for every woman to study its arrangement, as it requires considerable art to get it done smoothly, and there arc very few who can master It on the first trial. The best way to learn 1b to go to a fashionable hairdresser before attempting it oneself. In one's position before the mirror it is easy to watch the process, and what onemlsseswhilethehalris being done up cau be traced out by taking it down carefully and noting exactly how each twist is made. The first tiling the hairdresser does is to part off the front hair, after which she puts the rubber loop and button aiound the tack portion. If the pompadour is to be smooth and straight she can proceed at once to arrange It, but if a softening effect in desired about the face, she waves the front hair first. This done, she pro duces a roll of curled hair termed a "rat," which is Intended as a pad for the pom padour. These "rats" vary In length ac cording to the style desired. If ono wants a rolled effect all around tho face, tho rat Is a tiout tenlnchesfcjiig.andlKpJnned dowu attach end jusT&vertbeear.'r. Ititisonly wanted to raise the hair over the forehead, one fivcincheslong is sufficient. The-frout aadsldaUaIrlstlrr--c"t-evloutandroacher back over the roll, and side combs ntuck in, toethfrontwards, just behiad, theends being carried back to- be wouad arouad the hair that is tied at the back. Two tiny curia, one on each side of the forehead, are then made to relieve the severity of this some what 6tirr coiffure. When once the front hair na3 been ar ranged the remainder may be twisted In any manner that is most becoming, though a high coll of some kind is generally pre ferred, with the pompadour front. Onj somewhat elaborate twist' resenibles tw3' figure eights set at right angles. It'ia , done in this way: First divide tire back hair into two portions- Take the right half and twist it into a loop that Is carried up to thecrowc ot the head. If the end is long enough, form another loop with it and pJnitdown. on the right side of the head Then taka the other half and loop it to the leftside forming the bottom loop with the remabx dcr If the ends are not long enough to form a loop, they can be rolled over tha fingers into a puff and pinned down so an to balance the opposite sides; or If they are even too short for this, they can be curled on aa iron enough so that a few halrpin3 will hold them la place. It may not be found easy to arrange the liairia this manner the first time, but after four or five trials made at tunes when you are not dressing to go out, yoa will be sur prked to find how much simpler the task growa. Some halr-dressers also wave the un- der part of tlie hair at the back of the neck, but this Is always tied In with, the rest of the back: hair, and it Is only done to gather up such straggling locks as may disfigure the whole arrange ment by hanging down on the neck. Two lit tlecurls aresometlmes Intentionally allowed to hangdownon theneck,but these are usually false, as one's, own hair will nor slay curled it naturally straight. The effect of the coiffure may be en tirely altered by changing the arrange ment ot the separated trout hair. By trying this In many waya one may de cide upon the most becoming style and then keep it. Very few young womea look well with the high pompadour, it Beems f o be better suited to elderly faces. Nevertheless, it is bound to be fashionable during the seashore sreason when curled bang3 are put of the question. Most girls omit the false roll, and roach the waved hair by means ot side combs. Others still adhere to the parkin the middle of the front, and twit the hair back in a sort roll on each side, rolling the ends around the hair that Is tied at the back. In every case, however, it is found better to separate the hair around the face from the mass at the back, as it Is more easily bacdled by Itself, and by carefully following this general rule, and frequently practician different arrangements of the hair, the ordinary woman may soon become so skillful that she need not fear to attempt the most elaborate head-dress. HOLLANB'S YTIXFCX QUEENS Her Mother Finds She Is Rather More Than She; Cau Mnnture. Queen Emma, regent ot the Netherlands, who since the death of her husband has been governing the Dutch and endeavoring to rule her daughter, Queen Wllhelmine, has evidently come to the conclusion that the latter portion of her task is too much for her. She can manage the worthy HollanJer all right, but she cannot manage her daughter, a headstrong, passionate, and wilful girl, defects which the latter in herited from her father and grandfather, and which are, asin their cases, redeemed by a generous and warm-hearted tempera ment For at the suggestion of the regent the young sovereign, who attains her ma- . jority in Augu.st of next year, has been provided with a newly-constituted council of guardianship, which is to assist her mother in controlling her actions durinjr the fifteen months which have still to run before she becomes constitutionally in dependent The council is composed of eight mem bers, of whom no less than three are Roman Catholic, aa astonishing state ot afrairs when one recalls the prominent part which the royal house of Orange, as well as the Dutch, took In championing the cause of the reformation 300 yvars ago. Queen Wilhehulne has now reached a difficult age. She is too old to be sub jected any longer to the discipline of gov ern esses, all ot whom have beea sent about their business; and, on the other hand, she cannot be said to have attained as yet the age of discretloa, and this, added to her impulsive temperament, is continually getting her into trouble, all the more as she has commenced to resent bang treated" any longer by her mother as a child. This was only to be expected, for when ever she appears anywhere in public and daring the past six months sh6 has taken part in a good many state functions-she invariably takes the "pas" of her mother, and it is to her lather than to the latter that all homage is addressed. This is enough to turn the head of any girl, especially one who has been until a year ago- so sensibly reared and kept in the background to prevent her being spoiled. There is a regular storm In a teacup In Germany owing to a couple of the minor sovereigns of the confederation known as the German empire declining to take any part in the recent Emperor William cen tenary at Berlin. The blind Grand Duke of Meckienburg-Strclltz, whose wife is a sls tei of the Duke of Cambridge, receiving, as a princess of the reigning house ot Great Britain, an allowance from the English treasury of $20,000 a year, contented hiins-elf by atetalningfrom going himself to Birliu, from being represented there in any way, and "from illuminating his pal ace or the public buildings of NewStrelitz, his capital. But the Prince of Reuss-Greiz actually went so far as to prohibit any Prussian flags beings displayed In honorof thecven in Ids dominions, and several Prussians eatabllshed in his capital at Greiz, wha had adorned the fronts ot their houses with bunting, were compelled ly his offi cials to remove It This conduct had tho effect of arousing the wrath of his relative, the reigning Prince of Reuss-Gera, to such a degree that he Issued a proclamation declaring that the other Prince Reusa was an infamous blackguard. Each of these petty sovereigns rules over a priucipallty about the size of a small American colony, sparsely peopled by a few thousand inhabitants, the standing ' armies of each consisting of a single bat talion. The remainder of Germany is now waiting to see whether war will not ensue between tho two, and so comical is the situation that all the irritation originally felt In Prussia by reason ot the conduct of Prince Reuss-Greiz, and-of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Strclitz, has given wav to amusement- New York World. Immunity. . . ; "NO," said Madge, firmly. "I would never marry a newspaper man." "But why?" "Why. gracious, you can never scold? them for tonling home late." Philadelphia, North American. The Only Proot. The Able Editor (Ironically) i's IbU poetry? ; Contributor Didn't I begin each line with & capital letter. Twinkles. "iHUfc. r a x. & i5li-.gK-A4.-C,