The Morning examiner., January 03, 1909, Part Two, Image 16

About The Morning examiner. (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910

Image provided by: University of Utah, Marriott Library

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L i THE SUNDAY STANDARD OGDEN UTAH SUNDAY MORNING JANUARY 3 1009
I t
i J I I I I H 2dGE 1fJ
Y I
I o i t
I f
I S S I
A I DPESSfflGI >
a tQ itj3xpre jon I 9
x I PERSONALITY f
r = hp 7oeIIer l
The Actresss Opportunity To
Set Fashions Where Some
Stage Frocks Are Made The
Devils Effect on Fashions
Lillian Russell Directoirlied I
The Sensational Anna Held 1
I
Salome Influences Dress I
1 r I
Do actresses set the fashions or follow
them
It mny be said perhaps that If tho ac
tress follows echo follows so closely In
I the von of Fashions Inspiration that tho
first expression of Madame Modes whim
filefi are often accredited to her own orlgl
nnllty Tbat some fashions arc set by the
stage Is Indisputable For example The
Jane Hading veilthe Mary Manncrlug
curl tho Merry Widow hat the drop far
rlnJfirst worn by Miss Batrymore In
I Alice Sit by tho Flrenml other cos
I tume Items which have leaped Into ex
travagant popularity becnuse In tile
I glamour of the footlights they proved tiO
picturesque and attractive
I Fctcr Pan lomlnntc Fashion For
u Tirclvcutoiitli
t
Everybody remembers the Peter Pan
epidemic of n few seasons sincehow the
shops wore fairly Hooded with Peter Pan
bats Peter Pan belts Peter Pan shirt
waist collars and necktie nil because
ono original little Actress devised n par
ticular form of costume ns her expression
of an imaginary character
Naturally ou actress has every opportu
nity to ret the fashions If she will Hers
I arc the Incalculable advantages of care
fully arranged background clever light
effects colors chosen to set oft her par
ticular beauty to perfection trained grace
and E0lfpolse and the center of tho
Rtnge For the actress the couturier de
t n vises her pieces de resistance the choice
t I confections built to express her Ideals and
e her conceptions of the mandates of her
mistress Madame Mode To the stage one
looks therefore for tho authorltatUe
hints of what la to come and many a
style which after general adoption seems
Insignificant and ordinary at Its Inception
behind tho footlights was almost start
lInGly Impossible because of Its conspicu
ous novelty
I I Why Women Flock to Society
Ilny
That woman studies the stage for style
Ideas la unlvorsally admitted John
Drews airy society dramas the plays of
I Miss Harrymoro and Miss Maxine Klllot
i are always crowded with well dressed
I women seeking Ideas In costuming Tho
I dressmakers themselves make n point of
taking In such plays and pick up many
1
t
Held in
herParzs GOo
crumbs of stylo Informatlou that would
not come to them tlnoiigh the regular
channels Many a dressmaker Is stag
gered by the command to make a gown
exactly like the one worn by So and So
regardless of tho fact the pations face
form and personality arc ns different
from So and Sos ns day Is from night
The actresss costumes are of course
mOra extreme than anything that could
be worn In everyday life Just ns her
complexion must be ilvlflcd by artificial
means to avoid total eclipse from her
limelighted environment
how ActrestcN Dress Oft the
Hoards
At a recent afternoon reception given
by society folk for n charming young
actress an unusual marl of favor by the
way for society is prono to be chary of
its favors to slngefolk tho Thespian
guests were distinguished by their quiet
and correct costumes Scarcely a bizarre
or sensational effect was seen und many
of the frocks woro rarely beautiful
At the fashionable dressmaking estab
lishment where ire created some of tho
most Important costumes for nctrrsses
and society women In New York one Is
received Impressively Luxurious wait
Ing anti fitting rooms arc provided as
well as a rosy tea room where In the be
coming glow of shaded lights Intimate
gossip Is exchanged over beverages which
It Is whispered arc uot always served
In Innocent teacups
Tho ActrcNH Plums AVUIi An artist
In Dress
If nu actress Is ordering a frock or
a bcrles of frocks each of which must
help express some emotion and situation
of her play Madame lends her oar her
Intelligence her artistic perception and
her sympathy building bit by bit In
Imagination the exquisite creations which
will Inter achieve part of the plays fume
And luto each one of the costumes un
less they bo intended for n period play
and must be Iept true to a certain date
1 I 7p TUTLl8ffllYUTE ffi
B ZiECKDDESSIIYG8
T muff and neckpiece sets ore now
l + HAT up of so Infinite a variety of
materials and in so ninny different
shapes that tho average woman and es
pecially the one who alms to dress dain
tily considers that at least two such sets
t arc ncccwary to complete the list of win
tor wnrdrobe accessories
For ordinary service the darker and
mow durable furs arc advisable Block
i nnd brown cameo plucked muskrat nat
ural and Fabled xqulrrol combine well
with broadcloth and with many other
materials now fashionable for runabout
tailored street suits With such costumes
are usually worn turbans or toques which
have fabric crowns and fur banled brims
neckpieces centered or edged with fur and
round muffs with furbanded ends
With ottoman and satin afternoon two
fluid three piece continues arc worn hats
of mulching material trimmed with chin
cullln broadtail ermine sable mink nod
white fox bands The neckpieces take
the form of fourlnhand tics narrow
yardlong scarfs aud chokers fastening
with silk or satin bows while tho muffs
are trimmed at thb ends with little silken
frill or made of fur and silk bands or
fanged eutre deux
Broadtail combines charmingly with
black velvet corded silk or tucked chlf
ton in tho high Elizabethan collarettes
In these the pelt forms the central band
I nod unities the streamer ends The hat I
uccompanjlng such neckpieces uru of
toque shaped with fabric crowns and fur I
brim anti tho muffs chiefly of pelt with
linings and little ruffles of the silken ma
I
terai
Some of the hub Included In the fur
and fabric threepiece sets have full mili I I
tary cap CrOWD of soft silk or of velvet
falling toward tho left sldo In n point
finished tusbtfl Theo of cause are for
quite young girls The ncckplcco Is often
a furbordered fabric triangle with taut
telflulNbed points and the muff a six
pointed oblong which folds over the hand
iwckct In a toHsvlpolutcd furbordcrtd
triangle
As < brown lint combine so happily with
golden shades any amount of gold net
filet uud UHSUU Is employed for thu frill
Ings of muffs and scarfs and for hat
trimmings Gold sarnlshlngs nro also
used with sealskin one of the daintiest
combinations consisting of n fur band
tightly encircling the neck and edged with
lace frills the lower out about half thy
width of the upper which stands away
from the throat like a flowers petals Ac
companying this collar Is a round muff
of seal with gold lacefrlllcd ends and a
furhandud bat trimmed with lace ruche
Silver and chinchilla aro a favorite
combination in threepiece sets In these
metal cloth ribbon and tiinbroldery nro
used with tho whitegray fur Just art
black velvet satlu and Jetted lace arc
employed with cnnlnc Still more artistic
are the ermine furs combined with white
lace or corded silk showing silver out
lined black embroideries
Mcmlliic taffeta and satin sots bane
eelfcovcrcd large and small hats trim
med with tho tiny brushes of the mink
or the ermine The closely shirred fabric
I neck bands are trlnvned with tads and
tasteD beneath satin bows The brush
she will Incorporate the utmost of style
Information newly received from Paris
Tho actress suboidlnates style to her
on n personality and the emotions nil1
seeks to express The ordinary woman
seeks to express style regardless of
personality or Individuality It Is the
strong IndhldimUiy thus expressed jpn
the stage which often sets a fashion
contrary to tho nrbltiory mandates of
Duane Mono for that particular sea sou
An Actress Gowns Urliif r Out Her
IKU 10111 t
Ime Nnzluiova whole ethereal slender
npss like IJcrnhurdts U out of lieu fasci
nations set the fashion for the towering
btltlly boned stock collar with her rays
terlous melancholy gruy gown worn In
The Comet Miss Maxine Elliots
charming frocks while correctly modish
In every detail are built line for line to
express Maxine Hlllot Lillian Russell
while willing to conform to general style
decision of the moment Insists upon her
costume being a secondary consideration
her wonderful beauty always coming
first Miss Russell Dlrcctolrlkd Is still
Miss Russell and never for n moment ap
pears to have stepped out of a second
empire picture
AIIIIU IIclilH Frocks Arc iMCtifii
tlouul
The owns worn by Anna Held In
Miss Innocence are marvels of Inge
nlus conception ahoy combine the most
extrcmo features of tho present mode
with the coquetry chic and daring that
arc the characteristics of this little ac
tress Nobody but herself could wear
such coHtinncs jet many of their style
features arc copied by hundreds of wo
men
Tho satin gown worn III Miss Inno
cence nnd pictured here Is cut on thu
mermaid lines which outline every
rounded curve of the petite figure Thu
little sluoMs of shirred not caught to
gether with tiny frogs of silver cord
fOfle = Y
One of
Tr = ziSchef
I Graceful Costuin
offer a dainty suggestion for an evening
frock Tho lulslud ilbbou girdle which
hangs at the side conveys a suggestion of
chatflalnc ulnm bag or uubomilcr a Mid
dle Ago notion considered quite the thing
In Paris now
The cloth cape which Mlss Held wears
with this gown Is particularly graceful
It Is caught ut one side of the bust under
a large Jewelcl ornament and sweeps
downward and backward making n rich
background for the display of the silhou i
etted satin frock
I
Tho Devil OnVrn tinny Style
I I Ican
Some of the handsomest costumes on
the stage this winter were designed by
the late Mrs Osborn for tho Savage
Devil Society Hocked to 6c this play
not only bocause McpblstophcleH now
the mode but In order to study the sink
lug costumes worn In Otto performance
Many of these Crocks and hats offered
Ideas which might easily bo duplicated
In other fabrics Miss Olga Hoffmans
stunning afternoon costume of mauve
velvet wan one of the most delightful
rfgowns In the play Thin gown was in
simple long lines cud on the big Uusslun
tuiban of the purplish velvet was II
loose cluster of Parma violets With thfs
civet costume Miss Hoffmon carried u
huge muff of chinchilla fur
Every DrcHimnIcer TiilUIiiR of
hiss FrtfilcrlcltH Frock
The costumes of Miss Collier and Miss
Paulino Ircderlcks In Samson Imvo
served as Inspiration to many style seek
ers No smaller costume has been seen
on the stage this year than tho whlto
broadcloth carriage gown of Miss Fred
crick This exquisite gown attempted
by any but n muster bund would ery I
likely display the proportion of u pillow
Sri N 5
eJJ W
slip Handled ns it Is the fabric falls In
straight lovely lines from the bust to the
floor no walstlluc being Indicated and
the solo trimming being tho rows of
white eloth coveted buttons With this
marvelous gown IH worn a big white hat
faced with sable and trimmed with a
veritable bush of feathery white aigrettes
In the same play Miss Ircdoncks
wears un evening gown of satin with
puffed chiffon sleeves anal the now fa
mlllar apron drapery of embroidered
chiffon which Is being copied for dozens
of winter dinner frocks
lass Ilurr > morc IN AlvrnyM An
thorltnlli
The gowns worn by Miss Ethel Darry
more In her new ploy Lady Frederick
will surely find hosts of Imitators This
graceful jouiig actress costumes are al
ways much copied Just as her fascinat
ing personality has many wouldbe Imi
tators who seek by persevering poses to
duplicate her languid Indefinable charm
The guwn worn by Miss Barrymore In
Lady Frederick Is of chiffon over cloth
of gold the chiffon heavily enlisted
with gold embroidery With this gown
which Is the costume of a poNcful wom
an of the world Is worn n huge black
hnt massed with aigrettes In the bou
doir scene In the third act Miss Harry
moro wears a love of a pink crepe house
gown made with Inel sleeves and em
broidered delicately with swectpeas lu
shades of pink to mauve
Stage NcrrllKucM Alwnys 3IuI o
PlcturcH
No Item of stagehand raiment offers
more suggestions to the amateur dress
maker than the lovely ten owlIs nut bou
doir gowns of tbo leading ladles No ex
I MiiRi Is spitted of course to make these
fiisdimtlng garments n bcwltchlug ad
junct of the picture scheme and while
I AoxEJrirvmc Grv sxHh t Pnyone Airy Tu1Ye2uches
I Could ITaaliio J1atc1l the enln9 Jtat I
Z Zx s q16aSllg = W
Gowns Express < J
her Individaality
the Intricate details of fashioning arc
somewhat beyond tho skill of the tyro
the color effects Iud general lines may
often be duplicated very successfully
Pearls Urnldcd In liu llnlr
Another bouudtobutalkcdgf costume Is
Miss Kallschs gorgeous Byzantine dress
worn in the same play There Is n sur
plice of cloth of gold which hangs straight
to the feet with slushes at the side to
show tho under tunic of pale green vel
vet Long sleeves of the velvet ore
banded with Jewels With this costume
Miss Kiillsch wears her hair lu two lour
coils In which aro braided ropes of
pearls and many society women arc
now having pearl strings braided in their
tresses for evening festivities
The oriental and Byzantlnu effects
being exploited on the stage Just now nre
bound to have their effects on costume
Odette Valcry the GnckFrench dancer
has some ravishing Dyznntiuo costumes
Salomos are cropping up ou every hand
even tho statuesque Maxine Elliot es
saying the role In her latest play
Mary pardons Wonderful Thais
Guns
Nothing more truly Greek than this
marvelous frock worn bj Miss Mary Gar
den lu Thais was ever worn in Athens
Thb pure straight lines of this costume
represent the extreme of the classic That
no corset Is worn Is uvldent nnd the pearl
ornaments beneath tho bust serve to ac
centuate the supple unconllncd effect
On the front of the long clinging skirt
Is an embroidered pattern In panel effect
representing the graceful Greek honey
suckle design On one shoulder Miss
Garden wears a little wing of latticed
pearls The wide barrette first worn by
this actrcs beneath her classic halrdress
hug null named for hcrThe Mary Gar
den DoneUe11 one of tho style Influ
ences directly traceable to the stage
Tho KuflMinn Smock Mikes Its
llovr
By summertime no doubt wo shall all bo
familiar with this novel style feature
I WOMANS slippers arc at once the
A bane and blessing of her existence
Just how much bane and how
little blessing depends probably more on
the manner In which she cares for them
when not using them tlmu on any other
single circumstance
A few extra smart women have taken
greedily to a new model of Clipper the
extra bighhcclcd squaretoed slipper
such ns were worn at the court of that
grande monarch Louts XIV King of
France The slipper looks perfectly
beautiful on a sinill and Vendor foot
but the woman with a low ankle nnd n
great broad foot should shun them like
the plague for such n one will surely
present a ludicrous appearance In this
extra finical style of footgear
The newest one arc of patent leather
but it Is of a dreadfully expensive kind
that Is soft and pliable However tho
women who indulge themseUed In those
details of the toilet arc usually able to
Ignore the matter of the expense The
too arc squared off and the shocking
heel art almost three Inches In height
Across the front arc buckles wide anal
square with squaiecut tongues Tho en
tire design is square nnd they ore to bo
worn for any and every occasion In the
house aside from the few functions
where the satin dancing slipper is not
absolutely Indispensable When it Is re
membered that the boot and half shoe is
utterly old fashioned now with any sort
of a long skirt the rage of the slipper
must be conceded to have reached Its
height
The sales of slippers then arc In Iin
decorated shirred flat muffs arc usually
of the rug order This shape Is simply
an oblong piece of material of which out
end IH garnished with eight brushes and
the other with eight heads and paws It
Is thrown over a velvet band pocket In
a nmuuur calculated to reveal thu heads
ot lapping the brushes or with only one
or tho other extremity trimmed ends
in evidence
Some threepiece pets of the more elab
orate type are entirely of mous > ellne
velvet or satin Those of velvet nre now
considered exceptionally smart with
gowns of matching color aDd material
They have no trimming aside from the
satin bows fastening the neckpiece at
the side decorating the ends of the mutt
aud encircling the hat crown
Threolncb wide ruffles of heavy lace
like Irish point do VcnUe or Italian are
used on tho sots Including Charlotte
Corday huts the brim frills being gath
ered over corded bilk brims matchlu
the crows which sometimes arc lace
veiled Similar frills edge the neckpieces
I and the fiat muffs The Mime Idea may
be carried out III silk and swnnsdown
1 but ouly for a debutante or for a school
girls church costume On such sets gold
uud sliver lace Is never used ns that
sort of trimming In considered too elab
orate for very youthful representatives of
the gentler sex
I
FASHION NOTES
rIlE DAIVTV AVOMAVS HAXDICKII
CfllPFS
Hemstitched handkerchiefs arc this son
eon mart in evidence than arc those hav
ing Bctillops or points Those designed
for morning win of white alt nm rock nail
pure Irish linen arc in both plain and
I Just now It Is tho newest of the new
Miss Kallecli In Dora has a smock
of cloth worn over a rnlmpc with lung
sleeves of the same material This smock
or Kujslnn tnnlc comes exactly to tho
knee and beneath It is n skirt with a
kilted flounce starting at tho point where
tho smock ends Such n smock Is worn
by n French actress now playing in a
Paris theater Her smock Is of gold lace
over a trolling gown of white aatlu
Ullllu Rurko IH the Debutante
Model
The busiest dressmakers always spars
time to study little Miss Bllllc Burkes
costumes to get new notions for debit
tnntu frocks Perhaps this charming lit
tit actress sets more styles than any
other woman on the stage and the only
unfortunate part of It la that all her
Imitators cannot bo ns bewitching ns U
she herself In her dainty Jcuno file
frocks
Miss Burkes simple little lingerie gown
of Swiss embroidery Is ono of the much
talked of stage costumes this winter but
the simplicity carefully analyzed Is an
Interesting example of what genius and
dollars combined can accomplish In the
way of a perfect debutante frock
Another authoritative gown In Mill
Burkes play Loco Watches Is the
paneled costume worn by Miss Maudo
Qdcll This panel Is embroidered In Egyp 1
tian motifs and Is salrl to Indicate ono I
of the coming stylo features for sprint
and summer
The woman who sets out to model her I
costumes on stage raiment will carefully I
consIderas does the clever actress tho 1
probable effect of every line and tint whit
her own lines and tints and whether the I
character of the gown will express tho j
character effect which sho wishes to con t
vey Miss Blanche Bates Is a safe model for
the average woman seeker after stage
dress Ideas Miss Bates while Invariably I
smart and correct In her costuming Is
never extreme and some of her gowns are I
particularly charming I i
I MILADIS SLIPPERS III
mouse quantities and every conceivable I
8tya Welldressed women nowadays
bUt little Interest in boot except as
they must bo worn In various sports
sucit as when automoblllng golfing etc
Then certain special boots arc of course
Indispensable An ornato slipper how
ever Is used for the theater woddluc
Inncheon and In fact every social affair
that Is worth the mentioning
Of course such a demand for slippers
for every sort of affair goes hard with I
the girl who knows perfectly well what
should be worn to be eminently proper
and yet lacks the plentiful wealth to 7
buy various kinds of slippers In dozen
lots I
A woman who Buffered from Just this
lack of enough wealth to be able to dis j
regard expense recently claims to have I
taken n pair of old white slippers that
would uot clean and to have changed
them Into a paIr of pink satin flllppcn I
by merely covering them with pink train i
ribbon She cut the pink satin n trlllo
wider than needed to exactly cover the 1
old white slipper and sewed it on t A i
Pink beading she says covered nil 1
traces of the stitching and on the beds C
the pink satin that matched her dress 1
was pasted over the old heels When the I
dllQculty nliil brains necessary to accom l I
plish this feat arc considered It was J
perhaps after nil on expensive pair of
slippers without taking any account of J I I
the nervous apprehension lest the rnndo J
over slipper come apart or show In l I
some way their homemade origin
Undoubtedly mllndlH slippers arc I
among the most exacting necessities of 1
the modern toilet rt
J FE
i
crossbar fffects They have triple bar t
borders of dark blown green blue or I
gray Inchwldo borders and crossbuind t
colored centers oncquartcrlnch colored
borders with a corner floral wreath In
cluding a color Initial or n brood white > h
hem stitched in colors Empire wreath S v
designs fire used on some of the corded
linen handkerchief while others have
tho figure In one corner only or a ruin
ulng design inside the border and a 4
figure In ono corner
CAiiAciiox Timniixfis ARE msv
TO MA1CH
Jteadytnndo satin and velvet cahachon
rosettes with metal centers arc some n
times the sole trimming of tailored hat
or they are used tin a foundation for
wing clusters Sometimes several long
looped wheel rosettes with crushed rib
bon or velvet cabachon centers are pat
on 11 hat but usually one Is suillclcnt
especially If made of loop rows clustering
like petals about a rose heart Many of
thcso rosettes are used In connection j
with n crush silk band trimming the 1 4r
entire crown and for really hard ser
vice there Is scarcely anything more
practical as when pluholcd the band
may easily be replaced
JAI1OT EFFECTS hOlt TAILORED
SUITS i
nightecntb century ruffles nro ethereal f
looking affairs made from 10Inch wide
silk scalloped closely set triple hoc j
plaited hose stitched through the center
and attached to a wide Inner rlblK bind
d
which joins at the buck beneath n fluffy
Hue butterily bow Sometimes the rucli
Ilitr In set upon the top edgy of un Inch
anti it Jjdlf wide ctulTJidered band or
chiffon hued silver rlliion and clans
under u huge outspreadlug bow
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